You do a great job explaining stuff. I'm surprised your channel hasn't exploded with more people watching. I guess you need to be a RUclips pro also to make that happen?
I appreciate the clarity. The wiring harness from the generator in the Winnebago 33c SiteSeer (2016) has 5 wires from the generator. Two (2) white, One (1) black, One (1) green, One (1) Black w/ Yellow Strip. This brings me to the question, Since 1 black (hot), one White Neutral, and one Green (ground) makes sense from explanation, where does the second white and black w/ Yellow stripe attach.
@harveybryant794 both whites are neutral,both blacks are hot, the striped black is the 30 amp circuit breaker on the generator and the plain black is the 20 amp breaker. Hope that helps!
What causes the “humming” or “rattling” in the Transfer Switch ?? Had this happen twice and had to turn power off at the pedestal several times to get it to work properly
@BrianSchupp a dirty or weak contactor. So, contractors are normally open or normally closed devices that have a spring holding them in their respective position. When voltage is applied to an electromagnet the magnetic force overcomes the spring tension closing the contacts ( or opening them) " chattering can be caused by dirt or debris between the contacts or a weak electromagnet, what you here is the magnet and spring fighting eachother to close or open. Cheapest easiest way to diagnose is to blow high pressure compressed air into, around and on contactor. If that doesn't work...replace your transfer switch. Thanks for watching!
Enjoyed your video. Maybe you can help confirm something for me. When I plug my 50 amp rig into 50 amp shore power everything does as it should. However, when I connect to 30 amp or 15 amp shore power, I hear this click/clunk about every two seconds and no power is getting to the rig. As a work around, I can run the generator for about 15 minutes, THEN turn on the 30 amp or 15 amp shore power, run the ginny and shore power at the same time for about 15 minutes, then shut down the ginny and the click/clunk is no longer there and the gauges indicate that it is charging the rig as it should. Does this sound like the ATS has gone bad? Is there a way to check to be sure?
Great video! You mentioned a 1ms delay for the Generator relay to turn on. Isnt there a time delay before which the Generator Relay Engages and passes power through? Is it configurable.
Can you substitute an inverter rather than the generator as an input. I don’t have an onboard generator. I have an external generator. So essentially if I need to run a generator, I will unplug from your power and connect my generator to my short power receptacle. Therefore I’d like the inverter to be my alternate source of power. I’m guessing since there’s only one hot leg, you would have to use a , then essentially supplying 110 to each leg since it is 50 amp Service Thank you.
Yea I had one go bad the other day 17 years old with EPO system built in . I had purchased sometime back a Hughes Autoformer that will boost my ac voltage up to 12vac if needed. When I got to the RV park the power was going out a couple time a day . I ordered a Hughes Watchdog with EPO came in and the same day the power went dead. The RV park outside box had wires that had over heated and the 50 breaker was bad as well as burned spots on the 50a plug " all related to the RV park outside box " . My surge Guard " automatic Transfer Switch with EPO even with shore input power was not engaging the contactor even though it had both 124vac legs hot on the contactor. I wired around the automatic transfer switch using my autoformer and watchdog unit. Now I need a automatic transfer switch but without the smart EPO circuit, so the price is not $1000 but just standard transfer switch that is from 200 to 300 dollars. I just do not have generator power until I order and install the automatic transfer switch. The Watchdog with EPO has Bluetooth so I can see what is going on all the time with my smart phone that option I do like. Just thought this would be something that someone might like to read about what happened to me lol .
@PurerockSmokinBBQandMETAL You " could" but you would greatly be undersizing your wiring for the amount of current flowing, GREATLY increasing the risk of a fire or damage to 120volt components. I strongly suggest against this.
Hello, I have a 50 amp service RV . Recently went to a campground plugged into a 30 amp service an realized I was getting no power inside my RV . Tested the Transfer switch. I was getting 119 V going into the switch but nothing coming out . Assuming my switch went ,I replaced it with a “ Briidea 50 amp switch off Amazon . Hooked it all up, Generator side works perfect. But when I hooked up my rv to my 30 amp plug in my garage, I’m still getting power in but nothing out ?? Can you help?
I would recommend this model, I don't endorse this company or promote their products at a professional capacity, but can tell you I find these to be well built and reliable.
If possible add this Transfer Switch to an electrical system where a Solar System and a current Inverter are present in addition to Generator and the Shore Input Line?
@RobNickle Unplug the RV. Remove the wires from the output side of the primary contactor, then choose shore or generator and remove them frome the contactor and wire nut black to black, white to white, red to red. This will disable the ability to transfer between shore and generator but will provide temporary power until the switch can be changed. Remember I strongly recommend a skilled RV Technician or electrician perform this bypass, I do not take any responsibility for damage or injury should you attempt this yourself.
@RobNickle Not if you want the ability to transfer from shore to generator. You should have a 1 year warranty on that newer switch, make them give you a new one. If it's not surge guard brand perhaps consider Changing to it.
@MRRVTECH thx for the quick response. Ok thats good to know. This is a full time living unit with shore power. So if im understanding correct it's only design is to go from gen or shore as options. My concern is when the warranty is over and it goes again then I gotta pay. I really just wanna eliminate it safely.
Most Automatic Generator Transfer Switches use AC coil that buzz - hum. I found only one company that uses DC coils that do not buzz and hum: SCO, they make both a 30amp the LPT30BRD and 50 amp Automatic Transfer Switches.
I appreciate the way you explain the operation of the transfer switch.
Thanks for explaining this switch in a way that even a dummy like me understood. Good Job!
You do a great job explaining stuff. I'm surprised your channel hasn't exploded with more people watching. I guess you need to be a RUclips pro also to make that happen?
I guess so.....
I appreciate the clarity. The wiring harness from the generator in the Winnebago 33c SiteSeer (2016) has 5 wires from the generator. Two (2) white, One (1) black, One (1) green, One (1) Black w/ Yellow Strip. This brings me to the question, Since 1 black (hot), one White Neutral, and one Green (ground) makes sense from explanation, where does the second white and black w/ Yellow stripe attach.
@harveybryant794 both whites are neutral,both blacks are hot, the striped black is the 30 amp circuit breaker on the generator and the plain black is the 20 amp breaker. Hope that helps!
Awesome - thank you! Are there any kits that one can buy to do wiring for a custom-build camper?
Custom is custom, I'm not sure what you mean.....
What causes the “humming” or “rattling” in the Transfer Switch ?? Had this happen twice and had to turn power off at the pedestal several times to get it to work properly
@BrianSchupp a dirty or weak contactor. So, contractors are normally open or normally closed devices that have a spring holding them in their respective position. When voltage is applied to an electromagnet the magnetic force overcomes the spring tension closing the contacts ( or opening them) " chattering can be caused by dirt or debris between the contacts or a weak electromagnet, what you here is the magnet and spring fighting eachother to close or open. Cheapest easiest way to diagnose is to blow high pressure compressed air into, around and on contactor. If that doesn't work...replace your transfer switch. Thanks for watching!
Enjoyed your video. Maybe you can help confirm something for me. When I plug my 50 amp rig into 50 amp shore power everything does as it should. However, when I connect to 30 amp or 15 amp shore power, I hear this click/clunk about every two seconds and no power is getting to the rig. As a work around, I can run the generator for about 15 minutes, THEN turn on the 30 amp or 15 amp shore power, run the ginny and shore power at the same time for about 15 minutes, then shut down the ginny and the click/clunk is no longer there and the gauges indicate that it is charging the rig as it should. Does this sound like the ATS has gone bad? Is there a way to check to be sure?
Yeah, sounds like the contactor may be weak or the power sensing PCB is not seeing the power as it should, but probably the contactor( electromagnet).
Great video! You mentioned a 1ms delay for the Generator relay to turn on. Isnt there a time delay before which the Generator Relay Engages and passes power through? Is it configurable.
It is not configurable preset TDR ( time delay relay)
Can you substitute an inverter rather than the generator as an input. I don’t have an onboard generator. I have an external generator. So essentially if I need to run a generator, I will unplug from your power and connect my generator to my short power receptacle. Therefore I’d like the inverter to be my alternate source of power. I’m guessing since there’s only one hot leg, you would have to use a , then essentially supplying 110 to each leg since it is 50 amp Service Thank you.
Should there be continuity between L1, L2 and L3 of the Generator side?
Yea I had one go bad the other day 17 years old with EPO system built in . I had purchased sometime back a Hughes Autoformer that will boost my ac voltage up to 12vac if needed. When I got to the RV park the power was going out a couple time a day . I ordered a Hughes Watchdog with EPO came in and the same day the power went dead. The RV park outside box had wires that had over heated and the 50 breaker was bad as well as burned spots on the 50a plug " all related to the RV park outside box " . My surge Guard " automatic Transfer Switch with EPO even with shore input power was not engaging the contactor even though it had both 124vac legs hot on the contactor. I wired around the automatic transfer switch using my autoformer and watchdog unit. Now I need a automatic transfer switch but without the smart EPO circuit, so the price is not $1000 but just standard transfer switch that is from 200 to 300 dollars. I just do not have generator power until I order and install the automatic transfer switch. The Watchdog with EPO has Bluetooth so I can see what is going on all the time with my smart phone that option I do like. Just thought this would be something that someone might like to read about what happened to me lol .
what if your generator is only 30 amp with 1 hot wire, can you make a jumper from L1 to L3 to create 2 hot wires from the generator?
@PurerockSmokinBBQandMETAL You " could" but you would greatly be undersizing your wiring for the amount of current flowing, GREATLY increasing the risk of a fire or damage to 120volt components. I strongly suggest against this.
So this ats doesn’t actually trigger the generator to start?
Really great share!!
Larry
Hello, I have a 50 amp service RV . Recently went to a campground plugged into a 30 amp service an realized I was getting no power inside my RV . Tested the Transfer switch. I was getting 119 V going into the switch but nothing coming out . Assuming my switch went ,I replaced it with a “ Briidea 50 amp switch off Amazon . Hooked it all up, Generator side works perfect. But when I hooked up my rv to my 30 amp plug in my garage, I’m still getting power in but nothing out ?? Can you help?
My first instinct is to check your cord, or your 50- 30 dog bone
is this one you recommend? I am suspecting issues with my pts
I would recommend this model, I don't endorse this company or promote their products at a professional capacity, but can tell you I find these to be well built and reliable.
Can I use this on my house
Can I use this 50 amp automatic transfer switch on my house panel
@@aliciasmalls1826 no. Most houses are 100- 200 amp service
If the answer is Yes,How do I connect it? Thanks.
If possible add this Transfer Switch to an electrical system where a Solar System and a current Inverter are present in addition to Generator and the Shore Input Line?
What is the voltage of these coils
Are the two coils 110 volts
How do bypass the switch
@RobNickle Unplug the RV. Remove the wires from the output side of the primary contactor, then choose shore or generator and remove them frome the contactor and wire nut black to black, white to white, red to red. This will disable the ability to transfer between shore and generator but will provide temporary power until the switch can be changed. Remember I strongly recommend a skilled RV Technician or electrician perform this bypass, I do not take any responsibility for damage or injury should you attempt this yourself.
@MRRVTECH thank you. This is second time it failed from new. Only 6month old unit. Can i eliminate this completely?@@MRRVTECH
@RobNickle Not if you want the ability to transfer from shore to generator. You should have a 1 year warranty on that newer switch, make them give you a new one. If it's not surge guard brand perhaps consider Changing to it.
@MRRVTECH thx for the quick response. Ok thats good to know. This is a full time living unit with shore power. So if im understanding correct it's only design is to go from gen or shore as options. My concern is when the warranty is over and it goes again then I gotta pay. I really just wanna eliminate it safely.
Most Automatic Generator Transfer Switches use AC coil that buzz - hum. I found only one company that uses DC coils that do not buzz and hum: SCO, they make both a 30amp the LPT30BRD and 50 amp Automatic Transfer Switches.