Hi, this is exactly waht I was lookign for. But I have question: is this BluePower charger enough to feed the 12V devices when on external power supply (110/230V)? Is the BluePower charger capable to work as power supply for lights etc? Thanks for help, video is awesome. Liked and subscribed.
Hi @@petos0 this charger puts out about 400 watts, so if your 12V loads are less than that, then yes it will run them on its own, with the remaining power going into your batteries. That's in the charger mode. It does have a "power supply" mode as well, where instead of going through multi-stage charging, it will just put out a stable set voltage, a voltage chosen by the end user. Hope that helps, thanks for tuning in!
@@eladsgarr yes the inverter charger does all of this on its own, the inverter, the charger, the transfer switch, all in one package. At the end of the video I tell people to go that route if they are doing a new system.
I just finished installing a small solar system in a 1973 15x7 camper. My wife was asking me how to connect to shore power and solar also. This video explained it clearly for her to understand. Great video. Stay safe and vigilant.
Eventually, some manufacturer will put all of these components into 1 device, and that will become the new normal... MPPT, Inverter, Charger, Shore Power Transfer, Shunt, Lightning protection, all in one... The reason why it will work is because most system components are "sized alike". Another option to keep some modularity to it would be to do it like PC's do with "card slots", so that the MPPT could be an edge card inserted into a mainboard, thus allowing some flexibility in design while shrinking the wiring bird's nest into one box with slot cards on a motherboard...
Victron Multi Plus does the charging and the inverting in one unit. Would deffo get it next time since the charging on those units is pretty powerful (50A and more) plus a good inverter. Now i just have the 30a Victron Charger plus a different brand inverter.
Right on! In my perfect world, a camper van I outfit would have one huge-capacity battery box hardwired to a 30 amp cord that I plug in at home to charge to capacity. It would then be hardwired into a square D 30 amp circuit breaker box on into two separate circuits. The battery would have enough KWHs that I could run everything on house current (except maybe heat and air) for a week. Then I go home to recharge or, if on a longer trip, I get an electrical campsite for one night to recharge for another week. Is such a thing possible yet?
This video was SUPER helpful! Thank you! Quick Q - instead of splicing the charger into the shore feed at the transfer switch, do you have any thoughts on adding a 110v outlet inline with the shore feed before it gets to transfer switch? Reason being, my AC to DC charger is already wired with a type b plug.
Subscribed! although in my small RV trailer (a 5' X 10' squaredrop) I am building pretty much this exact system, but using a Samlex 30A transfer switch. This one has two fused 120V outlets for a battery charger and whatever else. I'm using the second plug as the 120V source for my reliable, old Engel compressor fridge. I have already installed a 15A 120V light switch to better control my shore charger so it was nice to see Ross suggest this. Now I know I'm not totally nuts. hahaha... QUESTION: Chassis grounding! Can you make or do you already have a vid explanation on this topic? For example, grounding my Samlex 1500W pure sine wave inverter using 1/0 (yes, as it's case ground)... do I want to run a separate, negative ground buss bar and then run that to my trailer frame? If my inverter were to fault then send 150 amps into my trailer frame, would that possibly damage the powertrain control module of the tow vehicle (if still hitched, chained, etc to it). Thanks Ross! You are the man!
This is the first video that covers 99% of my questions about this process. Not only do you explain what the single-unit inverter/charger does, but you also offer alternative solutions for upgrading existing systems. I’ve seen manual versions of the shore power switch when I was overseas, but I love the idea of an automatic switch that decides to use shore power when available. I also like the way you set up the battery charger. Great stuff and great video! I’m kind of curious about scenarios where you would be hooked up to shore power, but not want to have the charger topping off your batteries. 🤔 Thank you!
Hi Memo, thanks for tuning in and great to hear you got a lot out of the video! On the charger on-off option, perhaps it is rare, but I just don't like having to charge the batteries every time I decide to plug in. The charger switch is an extra layer of control, that perhaps could be left out if the end user doesn't care about that. It's not a must-have and could work either way. Great question and thanks again for stopping by-
I just subscribed. Ever since I hooked up PV solar to my trailer, my battery won't power my interior lights, pumps, or radio. I'm guessing I need a transfer switch. I had shore power connected to trailer while my pv solar system was going. I don't know if the both of them running together fried my original factory system. I'll check fuses. I have the Renogy 40 amp charge controller with Bluetooth. I don't know what happened.
3 way switch only . Off grid battery power .. inverter.. or switch to power source from hydro.. voila easy .cloudy day or need power up battery no problem..
If instead of the batteries, inverters, chargers, and all of that, if I used this transfer switch to connect a 30 amp battery bank like an Eco flow Delta pro and the other side of the switch being a standard 30 amp shore power. Would the fact that the battery bank having a floating neutral, cause an issue with the AC power in my camper? The reason I ask, is that EcoFlow sells an adapter that changes the battery bank from floating to bonded neutral, and I’m curious if it’s necessary in this configuration with the ground being connected to the frame of the camper?
I am about to set up a van for racing karts (not much for camping). I currently use a trailer with a 120v AC system and I power it with a generator. With the van I don’t want to take my larger generator and would like to just carry my 3000 watt generator. Is there additional issues with using the generator in place of the shore power? Is the transfer switch enough? Ha. I just got to that point in the video. So I’d have a plug for grid power and a plug for generators?
Great video Ross. I have a couple of questions about a solar system I installed in my rv. I used two bus bars to connect everything in the system. My first question is on the negative bus bar. All of the components are also grounded to the neagtive bus bar as well. Should that bus bar be grounded to the chassis ground of the rv? The 2nd question is about seperating the two chargers that can charge the batteries. I have same transfer switch used to switch from show power and solar power, wired the same way you did. I also have an internal battery charger housed in the circuit breaker a/c d/c distribution panel. I have two batter switches in the system, one to turn on the dc power to the inverter and also allows the charge controller to charge the batteries. I have the other battery switch between the dc charger cord coming from the AC DC distrubution box to the batter bank to charge when on shore power. So, I dont overcharge the batteries and have a continiuos loop, When Im on shore power, I turn off the battery switch coming from the solar charge controler so it cant charge the batteries and open the battery switch coming from the ac dc distribution box that has the charger in it to charge the batteries and supply 12 v to the system when I am connected to shore power. Is there a better way to wire this? Thanks
Good afternoon sir, really liked your video. I was thinking about upgrading my set up which is really similar to what you have right now. I was looking forward to purchase additional batteries but I'm not sure if the charger that you are using in the video will work with multiple batteries in parallel.
Can you teach me? I don't have a solar charger but my RV has a generator, please let me know how do I connect the inverter, generator and shore power to the ATS? Thanks in advance for your help.
So you can only run certain things off the solar 12-volt system, and so you would not be able to run something like an air conditioner off of it. My question is, if you had a generator to power things like an air conditioner when you didn't have Shore power, how would you set it up so that you could have your air conditioner running off your generator, but everything else running off the solar system ?
Very nice presentation. Since its for a vehicle it would have been nice to have the alternator included. Would you add that from eg Orion on to the same +/- bus bar's as the MPPT and BlueSmart chargers?
Are you able to use a 3 way connector & Tie in both Shore & On board Generator to that dynamic part of the Transfer Switch? Just trying to figure how to incorporate the generator with solar and shore
If the inverter itself has an on/off switch built into the case you could always open the case and run a much smaller wire to a light duty switch that splices into the case switch. But you would not get the indicator light like you would in his setup. That transfer switch is huge, smaller ones?
The only thing it seems you wouldn't be able to do with this system is run something that requires that high voltage if you did not have that shore power.
what happens when the charger gets the battery to 100% and the battery tells the charger to go to standby mode? A lot of lithium chargers won't reengage.
the only question i have is instead of the 3 way connector could you use a 4 way and add a generator to that mix where its either or for shore or gen or if the back feed may damage the other component
Is it ok to run wires from a 920AH LiFePO battery bank on my RV to a battery charger on my towed vehicle (lead acid 12 volt) to keep that battery charged for use of the brake controlled and lights?
This is so far the closest to what I'm trying to accomplish, just without the charger. Have a 5th wheel... adding solar panels and Lith batteries. How would I bypass the trailers invertor/convertor to make this setup work? Would I need a breaker switch like you show for shore power? Or was that just for demonstration purposes?
Hi Daly, on the breaker, I tend to add my own for shore power input, but there will be one out at the power pole you plug into as well. The rest of your question is kind of difficult to answer without knowing what you have, and is beyond the scope of RUclips comments. If you would like consulting and perhaps a hand sketch, I have that available here: www.rosslukeman.com/offers/Au4HykMc Thanks for tuning in!
There's no explanation of where you get 12 volt power when connected to shore power. If you're connected to shore power for a couple of weeks, it looks like 12 volts come from the battery. If I have a 12 volt AC and fridge they'll take more from the battery than the charger can replace. I believe the big Victron will cover that. The system you have on the board won't. What do you recommend to supply 12 volts from shore power with the smaller system?
The system shown here will provide 12V from the charger up to 30 amps while on shore power. As you said, if you need more than that, then you would need a bigger charger, or the Victron units, which have chargers at 80 amps and up.
You mentioned the all in one inverter charger transfer switch, but you didn't mention they only have 24v and up, no 12v all in one systems. I can't tell you how long I searched for a 12v all in one only to find out they don't exist (in the US at least) you could get a 24v with a 12v stepdown, but you lose efficiency. Or you would have to upgraded your whole 12v systems to 24v(or higher) which would suck. The cost is about the same to in the end so... 12v no all in one. 24v or more get the all in one.
Hi Kevin, they do have 12v models, that is all I use, such as the 12/3000/120-50 MultiPlus-II from Victron (link here: www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Datasheet-MultiPlus-II-3kVA-120V-EN.pdf). Most systems for vehicles are 12V, so they make models to work with that.
Great video! I have a stand-alone system in my Travato, all it needs is the shore power added, this really covers it. My Renogy DC-DC controller has a bluetooth monitor feature, do I need to install the shunt on neg connection to the AC-DC charger and put another monitor there? I kinda don't think so, not sure, I don't know what the shunt does.
Hey Alan, thanks for stopping in, I'm glad you enjoyed the video! In general if you have a shunt it's for the battery monitor, and it will go in the negative line right before that line hits the battery or batteries. It's just monitoring current in or out of the batteries, so it can tell you how much "fuel" you have left in the "tank" so to speak. I did this video on battery monitors if you want to see a shunt being installed: ruclips.net/video/vTKBNb-cJq4/видео.html Hope that helps, good luck with it!
I don’t understand how you add the charger to the transfer switch. If you are bringing 30a into the switch from the shore power, how do you wire in a 15a switch and outlet to plug you 15a battery charger to the same Waco connector?
If you were to stay using a 12v system, ie. a cargo trailer with lights, could you simply remove the inverter and solar charger from the system and operate the same with the switch and charger?
Hey there, yes the systems are largely modular. Everything operates on its own and can be added or removed, and the other stuff still works. If you need real help, check out rosslukeman.com for more resources. Hope that helps, thanks for tuning in!
So what if you want shore power sometimes and generator power other times through the shore power plug on an RV? Do you have to change the relay everytime?
Hi Tim, if you want to send the generator or grid power through the same plug, I would just say to wire that inlet to the generator side of the transfer switch so you get the 30-second generator startup delay from the switch, no matter what you plug into your inlet. The other side of the switch would be your inverter. Great question.
I appreciate this video very much-thanks! I’m working on an experimental project that is essentially a portable version of this setup. My concern is proper grounding, any thoughts? My first thought is it’s properly grounded to vehicle when charging via DC-DC charging system. Is that true? But while connected to shore, maybe some sort of connector to a vehicle ground? How about when out of the vehicle (in house) charging via AC? Outlet grounding sufficient? How about outside solar charging? Maybe some sort of ground rod I shove into ground via the aforementioned connector? Lots of questions, sorry. But they’re all regarding proper grounding for a portable unit. Any input is appreciated. Thanks!
Is This Like Pass Through Charging w/UPS on a Solar Generator...? For those who don't know what that is, PTCw/UPS allows you to have your system plugged into an External AC Unit, but instead of just charging your system it allows the current to passes through powering your appliances and anything left over then is used to charge your batteries... Pass Through Charging w/UPS is power Uninterrupted even if the Source Looses Power thus acting like a Batter Backup that people use for Their Computers!
Hi, sorry to ask such a specific question but you obviously know what you're talking about and i'm pretty clueless. I have an Sargent ec160 power supply in my van and it's currently only hooked up to the alternator charging the leisure battery. I want to add shore power, do you know if i'd need to add in a charger and transfer switch, as per your example, or is this built into the EC160? Any advice you could offer would be very much appreciated.
I added a shore power plug on my RV, but haven't wired anything to it. I have been looking and looking for ideas on where I need to attach a ground wire (the green wire) to something. Frame? Some component? I have inverter, converter, fuses, etc., etc., but there is NO information about where to ground or IF I need to ground that 30 amp plug. Can someone answer that question?
Ross, thanks for your videos. Quick question on this one - I saw you have the chargers on the switched side of the batteries. Any reason for that? I thought it'd be better to have the chargers on a separate switch than house supply (so you can kill supply but still have batteries charging etc.) Or were you just being efficient for the purpose of the video?
Hi Nick, I suppose there is a bit of an art to it, and you could arrange the switches differently if you had a reason. I typically have a "battery isolation switch" as I call it, so that I can isolate the batteries when the system (in this case "the van") is not being used, and I want to prevent any parasitic loads from taking the battery down over a long duration. This switch also removes battery power from the system during maintenance and installations. I think it could be good to have chargers and loads on separate switches, although I try to make these systems as simple as I can. As I said it's sort of an art so no two electrical designers would come up with the same layout. It's whatever you think is best for the outcome/operability you want to create. Hope that helps!
Very good video. But how to set up the shore power and generator together? There are times you don't have shoure and use generator. You said when generator is used, the shore hooks up in the bottom and the generator goes to the dynamic, but ehere does the inverter go? Can it be one wire for both genrator and the shore? Just make a inlet box where generator and shore can plug in alternately, no?
I have the same question as you! With OP current setup, what happens if you connect a generator to the shore power plug? Will this set up still function and will there be a 30 sec delay for the generator power?
After reading many reviews and watching a lot of videos, I chose this option for my first backup power station. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxHypYDKHAN93Lp2RQpfvU_ksc70wJ00pt I was between this and a larger option that could power a wider range of items, but the price/size/capacity blend seemed right for this unit. Hasn't gotten a ton of use yet, but the build quality is solid and it charges fine via the Rockpals solar panel I purchased to pair with it. One thing to note is that the screen is optimized for a top down viewing angle, which makes sense, but this means it washes out at other angles - especially low angles. Not a huge deal, but perhaps a better option for the display could be used to provide wider viewing angles.
I plan on always being plugged into shore power (with potentially adding solar). What all would you recommend if you/anyone has advice i would appreciate it!
I'll just break the tang that connects the 2 outlets on the receptacle. Wire one to shore power and one to inverter, plug in appliance to either one as needed. I don't do anything in a van that requires uninterrupted power, save money and space by not getting a transfer switch. Wire 1\2 of the outlets to a junction box connected to a shore power outlet and the other 1/2 to the inverter.
OMG, the size of the TS-30 box is huge. My easy solution is to add 3 XT-90 connectors, two males and one female. The male ones are for 120 sources (inverter and the shore), and the female is for the line to the trailer AC distribution. Only one male could mate with the female at a time. so it is failed proof. I have to disconnect and reconnect manually, but don't need to carry that big switch box.
An easy solution is to get rid of the inverter install an inverter/ charger. It has an internal transfer relay, which sends sure power or inverter power, depending on whether you’re plugged in or not.
Rigging a bus right now for a job where i will have shore power and take short camping trips, i think im gonna do almost this exact setup just without the solar charging until i make a bit more money
So I have a question I have a 50 amp 5th wheel and I have a shore power plug in the far back of the trailer and I want to add another shore power plug closer to the convince center on the side of the trailer the original plug wire goes to a surge guard in the storage bay in and out to the Victron Multi plus 2 then to the main panel so what do I need to NOT remove the original shore power inlet plug but to have both plugs work if I chose to plug into one or the other? Having the option of both locations.
thanks a lot! this video helped me kinda think out and solidify my plans for my fully 12v system (with just a little cigarette lighter inverter for my laptop). line1=solar panels>charge controller>battery bank line 2=shore power>battery charger and breaker panel so i can charge my laptop and drone and everything without draining my battery bank when hookups are available
Hey there, yes that is correct, power flows in and out of the battery on the same positive bus bar, at different times. And the same for the negative bus bar. Hope that helps, thanks for tuning in!
Hi Victor, I did mention this at the end of the video where I show an inverter-charger on camera and make the comparison with what's taught in this video.
Great video! I’m trying to figure out if I can use an older RV inverter/convertor box with my solar. (Still a work in progress). I’m thinking I might be able to use it by removing some guts. Thoughts? Anyone! Not just Luke!
Wouldn't it be easier to have a manual switch for your inverter? Turn it off when connecting to shore power. Done. No? Or could that harm the inverter, having it turned off, but having shore power meet with its positive cable? Also means your inverter isn't running when not needed.
Hi Harley, thanks for stopping in. You are welcome to go with a manual option. Typically automated is easier, but some people like to turn switches themselves. So there's no right answer on that. Typically the switch would go from one source to the other and not mix them. Blue Sea 9009 or something like that.
@@rosslukeman thanks for the response (and the videos!). I realised after posting that this might not be the best and safest idea just to save some money. Do you know if an inverter/charger must be left switched on for the shore power to flow through it? I'd like the inverter to be turned off unless in use. I'll do some research on this but thought I'd also ask here. Thanks 🙏🏼
@@harley5273 Hey there, glad that helped, thanks for checking out my videos. Inverter-chargers turn off their inverter when shore power is present. This is all automated. Did you watch the end of the video? ; )
I desperately need your advice! Everyone, feel free to advise me as well. I had 2 men working on the solar system in van. They replaced the batteries with a LiFePO4 12.8V 78Ah and a 12.8V 35Ah 448Wh. They installed a Pure Sine Wave Inverter 12V Input, Power 2500W, Output 120V. I also have a Victron Smart Solar Charge Controller, MPPT 100/30. When the electrician hooked up everything sparks began flying, the system got hot, and he has given up trying to set it up. I have no solar power now in my van, which is my home. Please help! I can't waste any more money and I have no idea what I need. Thank you.
Hi there, it sounds like something short-circuited. That's usually the only time sparks will fly like that. The electrician should have been able to trace back what happened. You need someone that knows what they're doing it sounds like. You might look at it yourself, in a lot of ways the systems are simple, each item just has a positive and negative. If you cross them or touch them together then it will create a short circuit and damage components. If you don't feel like you can/will figure it out yourself, then the best I can say is to get someone else who knows what they're doing. Any technician will need to look at your system to trace the problem, myself included.
Hey there, thanks for tuning in. That's kind of big question. In some ways it's shown in this video. I would suggest downloading my Van Power Cheat Sheet: www.rosslukeman.com/vanpower there's a diagram that shows how everything integrates. Hope that helps, thanks for stopping by-
Hey Ross I love your videos and the way you explain everything! I actually followed the same system you show in the video in my van, the only part I need help with is wiring to the distribution panel. I bought the one you recommended but am wondering do I wire both the transfer switch and inverter to the distribution box? And can I use the outlet on the back of the box to connect either the transfer switch or inverter? Sorry, these might be simple questions but I'd appreciate the help, thanks!
This is a great explanation. But I'd like more information. I've got a old sliding truck camper that's got existing wiring power breaker panel. What I want to do is take all my solar components ie-solar panels,mppt,100w inverter, lithium batteries,b2b charger, and fuse block that I stripped from my van and plan on putting it in the camper. I know how to connect all the solar components together I just don't know how to tie it into the existing camp or electrical and what do I do with the existing battery in the camper. I understand the transfer switch part but how do I connect it to the RV breaker panel? And what do I do with the old existing AGM battery? Also can I connect lithium and AGM batteries together?
Hi Brian, thanks for checking out my video. I would be glad to help with this but it's beyond a RUclips comment. I would be glad to work with you as a student of my electrical training, or via consulting. Here are those links: www.rosslukeman.com/offerings www.rosslukeman.com/vanpower Thank you, Ross Lukeman
I have shore power running directly into a WFCO WF8735 Converter with AC CB and DC fuses. When plugged into shore power my converter charges my Battery at ~79.8% efficiency. I also have a Solar Panel with a 40A MPPT charge controller Directly to my battery. ~94% Efficiency I want to run an 3000W inverter off of my battery and my shore power into an ATS to power my AC System without my Converter trying to pick up the DC load of my battery. This runs into the problem of Concurrent Charging that you mentioned in your video. With my MPPT and the Converter both charging my battery. I would normally just pull the fuse in the converters charge to break that circuit when I am without shore power. But wondering if there is a way to power my AC Appliances with my inverter and shore power without the risk of double charge circuits to my battery or worse. My inverter running into my converter then my DC output vice just my DC circuits running off my battery
Hi, I think I understand what you're going for. I don't see the problem with your MPPT and converter charging your batteries concurrently. I am guessing you have lead batteries and this is the limitation on how much charge current can go into your batteries? Here is a video I did on concurrent charging that may be useful: ruclips.net/video/x7U9oZfoJpw/видео.html As far as avoiding charging loops, the converter in that WF8735 is just a battery charger. They just call it a converter. Anyhow, that charger is wired to one of the AC breakers in the WF8735 unit. What you need to do is shut off all power to the WF8735 unit, then pull these wires and re-route/extend them over and connect them inside the transfer switch to the shore power incoming line like I showed in the video. So the converter only turns on with shore power, and not when the inverter is in use. I hope that helps. Thanks for checking out my video.
Hi Ross….I would like to have my a/c system ran only by shore power when able, therefor I wouldn’t be connected to my battery and no need for an inverter. I also would like shore power to charge my battery which will supply my d/c needs. Could I run my shore line to a breaker/breakers that would feed my a/c battery charger and also my house a/c system?
Thanks for tuning in and for the feedback! Sometimes I get comments that I drone on too long. I guess it comes down to different people liking different styles. In general I don't mind making more drawn out explanations. Good to hear that's your style.
Great Video Ross. So informative. I have one question. Isn’t the PD converter charger, a charger? You have a separate battery charger correct? Do you need that if you have the PD converter charger which charges the battery when hooked up to shore power.
Thanks for tuning in Dan, great to hear you enjoyed the video! On the PD converter, yes that is just a battery charger built into the Progressive Dynamics distribution box. It's just a charger (120V to 12V). I guess the name is related to the inverter (12V to 120V). But yeah, sounds like you already have a charger. Hope that helps!
Thanks for the tip to connect the charger directly to the mains wiring in the switch. I've wired it from the breaker so I need to make sure to turn it off when I turn on the inverter so it doesnt have a "free energy" loop lol
Hi John, thanks for the kind words, I'm glad you're enjoying the videos! As far as WiFi specifically, no, none of the components shown here emit or communicate with WiFi signals. There are a couple that do Bluetooth, but that's all. For the Victron components in the video, they could be connected to a Victron GX device, and those devices will pick up a WiFi signal, if one is available. Hope that answers your question, thanks-
With respect to this excellent video, for a fraction of the cost of the victron inverter/charger why not just add another 30 amp charger and a much larger inverter? Thanks
Because these systems are already complicated, you're not going to save that much, and people do double the engineering to save a few dollars. It would work, just not my style.
Hi Herb, you would plug in shore power and the generator into one of these transfer switches. The alternator wouldn't go through the transfer switch, it would just connect to system positive and negative, the 12V part of the system that links to the batteries.
I have my shore power set up so I can entirely or partially bypass the house power when charging. This allows under ideal shore power situations to be able to give the house system arrest after charging, or in situations like when you're plugged into someone's residence to keep higher current items (like I microwave) on the house power so you don't blow the circuit breaker in the residence.
Hi Ross, thank you for the great videos! Quick question, also it might be a dumb question... When I syphon off power for my charger, does it affect the charger's output? I will be running a Progressive Dynamics PD9160ALV 12V Lithium Ion Battery Converter/Charger - 60 Amp. Just want to make sure my "tapping" into the lines the way you show it wont affect anything. Thanks!!
Also, do you ever do a short consulting zoom meeting where I show you what I have so far and you give recommendations / tips? I have done up all my layouts and wiring diagrams, but want to make sure it's correct. This is my first project and I am super green with electrical
Hey there, I'm not sure if I understand the charger question, but I'm going to say no, the charger will put out its full rated output in this scenario. On the zoom-style calls, yes I have those available Thu-Sat each week and would be glad to look over what you've got designed thus far. Here is my "Work with Me" page: www.rosslukeman.com/offerings Thanks, Ross
I'm bit confused about last bit you've mentioned in your video - EasyPlus switching off inverter when you plug in shore power. I've got EasyPlus Compact 12/1600/70 and need it to be switched ON to pass through shore power from the grid to the van. So in my set up I'm hooking up to the grid, switching Easy Plus "On" and I get 230V in all sockets on board. At the same time charger side kicks in and is topping up my Lifepo battery. My problem is, in a cold weather BMS will protect battery and cut off charging which for some reason makes easy plus cut off shore power. What I'm doing wrong? Why inverter / charger side can't be off and just pass through 230V from the grid. That was my whole point of having easy plus compact with beakers fitted to simplify install. Thanks for very informative video.
Hi Pete, I was saying that the inverter-charger will turn off its internal inverter when it detects shore power, but as you concluded the unit itself is left on by the user. On the BMS shutting down everything, that sort of makes sense that even the 230V grid power could not get in. Do you have a Victron BMS that's controlling the EasyPlus? An easy fix may just be to have a little heating pad on the batteries to prevent this shutdown from happening. Whether the EasyPlus can let shore power through while turning off battery charging, I am not sure. Perhaps there is a setting for this in the programming. You might also ask in the Victron Community forum. As I mentioned though, you might get a battery heater to avoid the situation altogether. I hope that helps! Thanks, Ross
Help! I have a trailer with a factory solar panel. I had a jack installed on the tub where the battery so I could also use a suitcase panel. Told that I would still need a controller for it. Is this true? The controller inside the trailer not able to recognize it? My plan is if I have to park under trees where the solar on the trailer would not get sun. I would like to put a panel out in a sunny area. Plus.. maybe double the panels even when parked in the sun to charge battery faster.
Hey there, great question. You have to watch mixing panels of different voltages, as that can make the whole system fall to the voltage of the lowest-voltage panel, severely reducing output. If the voltages are close them you can mix them without as much loss. The 2nd charge controller does sound like a nice solution, as both solar charge controllers could be connected to the battery (this would be called "connecting them in parallel"), and whatever power came in whichever controller would make it to the battery. It might be good to put a switch (or just a breaker that you can switch off) in the Batt Positive line from the suitcase panel controller, as these solar controllers can become a slight draw on the battery (although with newer designs, that draw is getting to be less and less) without a solar panel hooked up. Hope that gives you some ideas! Thanks for the question-
Hey CMB, you tie into vehicle power at the engine battery positive, the charge controller is only for solar. For engine charging you would get a separate DC-DC charger. Renogy makes some combination solar controller (MPPT)/DC-DC chargers, but you may not want to combine those functions as those units limit how much you can get from both sources simultaneously.
Hey there, this video was mainly concerned with what to do with incoming AC power, but the battery charger and battery in the system are all about DC power. Anytime there is a battery in the system you can tap in for DC power. Great question, thanks for tuning in!
Hey there, the all-in-one is the MultiPlus 2000VA by Victron, the vendor I partner with is Vanlife Outfitters: www.vanlifeoutfitters.com/store/victron-energy-12-2000-80-multiplus-inverter-charger-new/?ref=VPMM (affiliate link). Thanks for tuning in!
I am wanting to add shore power to my van. I already have the Renogy DCC50S DC-DC Charger installed. It runs the charging from my solar and alternator to the house batteries. Can I use the TS-30 Transfer Switch to add a Progressive Dynamics Mighty Mini AC/DC Panel and Converter/Smart Charger into my system. The end result I am looking for is to have 3 options for charging my house batteries. i.e. shore, alternator, and solar.
I could be wrong but I don't think that Mighty Mini is the right product. It will have a single line in from the Transfer Switch. Problem is...when you unplug and run the inverter into the transfer switch, it's going to think it has shore power and turn on the converter to charge your batteries. So your batteries will charge your batteries, can't have a loop like that. You should just get a charger and a naked AC/DC panel like the PD5000 or the WFCO 8930/50. That's my quick take on it.
@@rosslukeman If I understand you correctly, I would hook my DCC50S DC-DC Charger to the Default Power Source Wires on the DS30 Transfer Switch, and the ac-dc converter charger would be hooked to the Dynamic Source Wires on the DS30 Transfer Switch. The Transfer switch would then figure out if I was hooked to shore power, or if I was powering from the DCC50S DC-DC Charger, and send output power to my Battery Bank, which would send power through my inverter and ut to my 120v and 12v outlets?
Get the Ultimate Van Power Cheat Sheet: www.rosslukeman.com/vanpower
Hi, this is exactly waht I was lookign for. But I have question: is this BluePower charger enough to feed the 12V devices when on external power supply (110/230V)? Is the BluePower charger capable to work as power supply for lights etc? Thanks for help, video is awesome. Liked and subscribed.
Hi @@petos0 this charger puts out about 400 watts, so if your 12V loads are less than that, then yes it will run them on its own, with the remaining power going into your batteries. That's in the charger mode. It does have a "power supply" mode as well, where instead of going through multi-stage charging, it will just put out a stable set voltage, a voltage chosen by the end user. Hope that helps, thanks for tuning in!
@@rosslukemandoesn’t using and inverter charger prevent you from this roundabout method of wiring this system.
@@eladsgarr yes the inverter charger does all of this on its own, the inverter, the charger, the transfer switch, all in one package. At the end of the video I tell people to go that route if they are doing a new system.
Finally, someone that actually knows what he's talking about! A+ on your explanation of how this works.
Thank you Mike! I appreciate that.
Low battery back to charge battery 😂
A truly excellent explanation and presentation! Best out there - thanks!
Thank you Manny! I appreciate that!
I just finished installing a small solar system in a 1973 15x7 camper. My wife was asking me how to connect to shore power and solar also. This video explained it clearly for her to understand. Great video. Stay safe and vigilant.
Awesome to hear this video helped her! Congrats on finishing your system, and thanks for tuning in!
Eventually, some manufacturer will put all of these components into 1 device, and that will become the new normal... MPPT, Inverter, Charger, Shore Power Transfer, Shunt, Lightning protection, all in one... The reason why it will work is because most system components are "sized alike". Another option to keep some modularity to it would be to do it like PC's do with "card slots", so that the MPPT could be an edge card inserted into a mainboard, thus allowing some flexibility in design while shrinking the wiring bird's nest into one box with slot cards on a motherboard...
Victron Multi Plus does the charging and the inverting in one unit. Would deffo get it next time since the charging on those units is pretty powerful (50A and more) plus a good inverter. Now i just have the 30a Victron Charger plus a different brand inverter.
The Sol-Ark has most of those features.
Right on! In my perfect world, a camper van I outfit would have one huge-capacity battery box hardwired to a 30 amp cord that I plug in at home to charge to capacity. It would then be hardwired into a square D 30 amp circuit breaker box on into two separate circuits. The battery would have enough KWHs that I could run everything on house current (except maybe heat and air) for a week. Then I go home to recharge or, if on a longer trip, I get an electrical campsite for one night to recharge for another week. Is such a thing possible yet?
Bluetti AC 200 max ?
They already Exist. Have a look at Victron Energy Inverter/Charger MULTIPLUS-II 48/3000/35-50 120V | PMP482305100
hey at 14:30 do we need the three way connectors if the ground is actually running out the bottom left of the box?
Hi there, the ground has nothing to do with the 3-way connectors. No grounds go in those connectors.
This video was SUPER helpful! Thank you! Quick Q - instead of splicing the charger into the shore feed at the transfer switch, do you have any thoughts on adding a 110v outlet inline with the shore feed before it gets to transfer switch? Reason being, my AC to DC charger is already wired with a type b plug.
Subscribed! although in my small RV trailer (a 5' X 10' squaredrop) I am building pretty much this exact system, but using a Samlex 30A transfer switch. This one has two fused 120V outlets for a battery charger and whatever else. I'm using the second plug as the 120V source for my reliable, old Engel compressor fridge. I have already installed a 15A 120V light switch to better control my shore charger so it was nice to see Ross suggest this. Now I know I'm not totally nuts. hahaha...
QUESTION: Chassis grounding! Can you make or do you already have a vid explanation on this topic? For example, grounding my Samlex 1500W pure sine wave inverter using 1/0 (yes, as it's case ground)... do I want to run a separate, negative ground buss bar and then run that to my trailer frame? If my inverter were to fault then send 150 amps into my trailer frame, would that possibly damage the powertrain control module of the tow vehicle (if still hitched, chained, etc to it). Thanks Ross! You are the man!
This is the first video that covers 99% of my questions about this process. Not only do you explain what the single-unit inverter/charger does, but you also offer alternative solutions for upgrading existing systems. I’ve seen manual versions of the shore power switch when I was overseas, but I love the idea of an automatic switch that decides to use shore power when available. I also like the way you set up the battery charger. Great stuff and great video! I’m kind of curious about scenarios where you would be hooked up to shore power, but not want to have the charger topping off your batteries. 🤔
Thank you!
Hi Memo, thanks for tuning in and great to hear you got a lot out of the video! On the charger on-off option, perhaps it is rare, but I just don't like having to charge the batteries every time I decide to plug in. The charger switch is an extra layer of control, that perhaps could be left out if the end user doesn't care about that. It's not a must-have and could work either way. Great question and thanks again for stopping by-
I just subscribed. Ever since I hooked up PV solar to my trailer, my battery won't power my interior lights, pumps, or radio. I'm guessing I need a transfer switch. I had shore power connected to trailer while my pv solar system was going. I don't know if the both of them running together fried my original factory system. I'll check fuses. I have the Renogy 40 amp charge controller with Bluetooth. I don't know what happened.
3 way switch only . Off grid battery power .. inverter.. or switch to power source from hydro.. voila easy .cloudy day or need power up battery no problem..
Ross, awesome video. I built my van to be totally off grid, but thinking I want to add a/c. Where would I wire the a/c unit into this system?
If instead of the batteries, inverters, chargers, and all of that, if I used this transfer switch to connect a 30 amp battery bank like an Eco flow Delta pro and the other side of the switch being a standard 30 amp shore power.
Would the fact that the battery bank having a floating neutral, cause an issue with the AC power in my camper?
The reason I ask, is that EcoFlow sells an adapter that changes the battery bank from floating to bonded neutral, and I’m curious if it’s necessary in this configuration with the ground being connected to the frame of the camper?
I am about to set up a van for racing karts (not much for camping). I currently use a trailer with a 120v AC system and I power it with a generator. With the van I don’t want to take my larger generator and would like to just carry my 3000 watt generator. Is there additional issues with using the generator in place of the shore power? Is the transfer switch enough? Ha. I just got to that point in the video. So I’d have a plug for grid power and a plug for generators?
So if I don’t have a transfer switch (I manually plug the charger into power) how do I wire everything without the transfer switch in the equation???
Great video Ross. I have a couple of questions about a solar system I installed in my rv. I used two bus bars to connect everything in the system. My first question is on the negative bus bar. All of the components are also grounded to the neagtive bus bar as well. Should that bus bar be grounded to the chassis ground of the rv? The 2nd question is about seperating the two chargers that can charge the batteries. I have same transfer switch used to switch from show power and solar power, wired the same way you did. I also have an internal battery charger housed in the circuit breaker a/c d/c distribution panel. I have two batter switches in the system, one to turn on the dc power to the inverter and also allows the charge controller to charge the batteries. I have the other battery switch between the dc charger cord coming from the AC DC distrubution box to the batter bank to charge when on shore power. So, I dont overcharge the batteries and have a continiuos loop, When Im on shore power, I turn off the battery switch coming from the solar charge controler so it cant charge the batteries and open the battery switch coming from the ac dc distribution box that has the charger in it to charge the batteries and supply 12 v to the system when I am connected to shore power. Is there a better way to wire this? Thanks
Good afternoon sir, really liked your video. I was thinking about upgrading my set up which is really similar to what you have right now. I was looking forward to purchase additional batteries but I'm not sure if the charger that you are using in the video will work with multiple batteries in parallel.
Can you teach me? I don't have a solar charger but my RV has a generator, please let me know how do I connect the inverter, generator and shore power to the ATS? Thanks in advance for your help.
So you can only run certain things off the solar 12-volt system, and so you would not be able to run something like an air conditioner off of it.
My question is, if you had a generator to power things like an air conditioner when you didn't have Shore power, how would you set it up so that you could have your air conditioner running off your generator, but everything else running off the solar system ?
Very nice presentation. Since its for a vehicle it would have been nice to have the alternator included. Would you add that from eg Orion on to the same +/- bus bar's as the MPPT and BlueSmart chargers?
Thanks, glad you found the video useful. The answer is yes, you would connect the Orion to the same +/- bus bars as the other chargers.
Are you able to use a 3 way connector & Tie in both Shore & On board Generator to that dynamic part of the Transfer Switch?
Just trying to figure how to incorporate the generator with solar and shore
If the inverter itself has an on/off switch built into the case you could always open the case and run a much smaller wire to a light duty switch that splices into the case switch. But you would not get the indicator light like you would in his setup. That transfer switch is huge, smaller ones?
How would I manage charging my batteries via the vehicle alternator in addition to this? Or do I need to choose between solar and alternator?
If you have an inverter/charger do you need a transfer switch? Ha. Caught me again.
The only thing it seems you wouldn't be able to do with this system is run something that requires that high voltage if you did not have that shore power.
BRILLIANT / Super comprehensive super easy to follow!!!
Hey thank you, I appreciate you tuning in and for the kind words!
what happens when the charger gets the battery to 100% and the battery tells the charger to go to standby mode? A lot of lithium chargers won't reengage.
Sorry man, kind of vague. What charger are you referring to? That’s not the case with the charger in this video.
the only question i have is instead of the 3 way connector could you use a 4 way and add a generator to that mix where its either or for shore or gen or if the back feed may damage the other component
Is it ok to run wires from a 920AH LiFePO battery bank on my RV to a battery charger on my towed vehicle (lead acid 12 volt) to keep that battery charged for use of the brake controlled and lights?
Hey there, yes in general that sounds fine so long as you have the proper fusing and cutoff switches, etc. Hope that helps, thanks for tuning in!
Very well explained..thank you!!
Thanks Alex, I appreciate you tuning in!
This is so far the closest to what I'm trying to accomplish, just without the charger. Have a 5th wheel... adding solar panels and Lith batteries. How would I bypass the trailers invertor/convertor to make this setup work? Would I need a breaker switch like you show for shore power? Or was that just for demonstration purposes?
Hi Daly, on the breaker, I tend to add my own for shore power input, but there will be one out at the power pole you plug into as well. The rest of your question is kind of difficult to answer without knowing what you have, and is beyond the scope of RUclips comments. If you would like consulting and perhaps a hand sketch, I have that available here: www.rosslukeman.com/offers/Au4HykMc Thanks for tuning in!
There's no explanation of where you get 12 volt power when connected to shore power. If you're connected to shore power for a couple of weeks, it looks like 12 volts come from the battery. If I have a 12 volt AC and fridge they'll take more from the battery than the charger can replace. I believe the big Victron will cover that. The system you have on the board won't. What do you recommend to supply 12 volts from shore power with the smaller system?
The system shown here will provide 12V from the charger up to 30 amps while on shore power. As you said, if you need more than that, then you would need a bigger charger, or the Victron units, which have chargers at 80 amps and up.
You mentioned the all in one inverter charger transfer switch, but you didn't mention they only have 24v and up, no 12v all in one systems. I can't tell you how long I searched for a 12v all in one only to find out they don't exist (in the US at least) you could get a 24v with a 12v stepdown, but you lose efficiency. Or you would have to upgraded your whole 12v systems to 24v(or higher) which would suck. The cost is about the same to in the end so... 12v no all in one. 24v or more get the all in one.
Hi Kevin, they do have 12v models, that is all I use, such as the 12/3000/120-50 MultiPlus-II from Victron (link here: www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Datasheet-MultiPlus-II-3kVA-120V-EN.pdf). Most systems for vehicles are 12V, so they make models to work with that.
Thanks for this video. Adding a transfer switch to my RV for shore power and my EcoFlow Pro
Awesome John! Thanks for tuning in-
Great video! I have a stand-alone system in my Travato, all it needs is the shore power added, this really covers it. My Renogy DC-DC controller has a bluetooth monitor feature, do I need to install the shunt on neg connection to the AC-DC charger and put another monitor there? I kinda don't think so, not sure, I don't know what the shunt does.
Hey Alan, thanks for stopping in, I'm glad you enjoyed the video! In general if you have a shunt it's for the battery monitor, and it will go in the negative line right before that line hits the battery or batteries. It's just monitoring current in or out of the batteries, so it can tell you how much "fuel" you have left in the "tank" so to speak. I did this video on battery monitors if you want to see a shunt being installed: ruclips.net/video/vTKBNb-cJq4/видео.html Hope that helps, good luck with it!
I’m building a trailer conversion / toy hauler and this is exactly what I was looking for at exactly the right time. Liked and subscribed Thank you
Thanks for tuning in!
I don’t understand how you add the charger to the transfer switch. If you are bringing 30a into the switch from the shore power, how do you wire in a 15a switch and outlet to plug you 15a battery charger to the same Waco connector?
You have a good point Ronna, there should be a 15A breaker or fuse on the charger line.
If you were to stay using a 12v system, ie. a cargo trailer with lights, could you simply remove the inverter and solar charger from the system and operate the same with the switch and charger?
Hey there, yes the systems are largely modular. Everything operates on its own and can be added or removed, and the other stuff still works. If you need real help, check out rosslukeman.com for more resources. Hope that helps, thanks for tuning in!
So what if you want shore power sometimes and generator power other times through the shore power plug on an RV? Do you have to change the relay everytime?
Hi Tim, if you want to send the generator or grid power through the same plug, I would just say to wire that inlet to the generator side of the transfer switch so you get the 30-second generator startup delay from the switch, no matter what you plug into your inlet. The other side of the switch would be your inverter. Great question.
@@rosslukeman thank you!
Is there any reason my 3000 watt inverter and 2 300ah batteries would not work in this system?
Thanks for the outstanding videos!!!
Hi Randy, yes what you described should all work with what you saw in this video. Thanks for tuning in!
I appreciate this video very much-thanks! I’m working on an experimental project that is essentially a portable version of this setup. My concern is proper grounding, any thoughts? My first thought is it’s properly grounded to vehicle when charging via DC-DC charging system. Is that true? But while connected to shore, maybe some sort of connector to a vehicle ground? How about when out of the vehicle (in house) charging via AC? Outlet grounding sufficient? How about outside solar charging? Maybe some sort of ground rod I shove into ground via the aforementioned connector? Lots of questions, sorry. But they’re all regarding proper grounding for a portable unit. Any input is appreciated. Thanks!
Is This Like Pass Through Charging w/UPS on a Solar Generator...? For those who don't know what that is, PTCw/UPS allows you to have your system plugged into an External AC Unit, but instead of just charging your system it allows the current to passes through powering your appliances and anything left over then is used to charge your batteries... Pass Through Charging w/UPS is power Uninterrupted even if the Source Looses Power thus acting like a Batter Backup that people use for Their Computers!
Hi, sorry to ask such a specific question but you obviously know what you're talking about and i'm pretty clueless. I have an Sargent ec160 power supply in my van and it's currently only hooked up to the alternator charging the leisure battery. I want to add shore power, do you know if i'd need to add in a charger and transfer switch, as per your example, or is this built into the EC160?
Any advice you could offer would be very much appreciated.
I added a shore power plug on my RV, but haven't wired anything to it. I have been looking and looking for ideas on where I need to attach a ground wire (the green wire) to something. Frame? Some component? I have inverter, converter, fuses, etc., etc., but there is NO information about where to ground or IF I need to ground that 30 amp plug. Can someone answer that question?
Ross, thanks for your videos. Quick question on this one - I saw you have the chargers on the switched side of the batteries. Any reason for that? I thought it'd be better to have the chargers on a separate switch than house supply (so you can kill supply but still have batteries charging etc.) Or were you just being efficient for the purpose of the video?
Hi Nick, I suppose there is a bit of an art to it, and you could arrange the switches differently if you had a reason. I typically have a "battery isolation switch" as I call it, so that I can isolate the batteries when the system (in this case "the van") is not being used, and I want to prevent any parasitic loads from taking the battery down over a long duration. This switch also removes battery power from the system during maintenance and installations. I think it could be good to have chargers and loads on separate switches, although I try to make these systems as simple as I can. As I said it's sort of an art so no two electrical designers would come up with the same layout. It's whatever you think is best for the outcome/operability you want to create. Hope that helps!
Very good video. But how to set up the shore power and generator together? There are times you don't have shoure and use generator. You said when generator is used, the shore hooks up in the bottom and the generator goes to the dynamic, but ehere does the inverter go?
Can it be one wire for both genrator and the shore? Just make a inlet box where generator and shore can plug in alternately, no?
I have the same question as you!
With OP current setup, what happens if you connect a generator to the shore power plug? Will this set up still function and will there be a 30 sec delay for the generator power?
Thank you! I will be mostly on shore power and on a budget. Need,to know how to set yp for my Bestek 2000 w inverter.
After reading many reviews and watching a lot of videos, I chose this option for my first backup power station. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxHypYDKHAN93Lp2RQpfvU_ksc70wJ00pt I was between this and a larger option that could power a wider range of items, but the price/size/capacity blend seemed right for this unit. Hasn't gotten a ton of use yet, but the build quality is solid and it charges fine via the Rockpals solar panel I purchased to pair with it. One thing to note is that the screen is optimized for a top down viewing angle, which makes sense, but this means it washes out at other angles - especially low angles. Not a huge deal, but perhaps a better option for the display could be used to provide wider viewing angles.
I plan on always being plugged into shore power (with potentially adding solar). What all would you recommend if you/anyone has advice i would appreciate it!
Just a super great video. Thanks a million.
Thanks for tuning in, I appreciate that!
Ross - do have a diagram for this build with components (model #'s) identified?
I'll just break the tang that connects the 2 outlets on the receptacle. Wire one to shore power and one to inverter, plug in appliance to either one as needed. I don't do anything in a van that requires uninterrupted power, save money and space by not getting a transfer switch. Wire 1\2 of the outlets to a junction box connected to a shore power outlet and the other 1/2 to the inverter.
OMG, the size of the TS-30 box is huge. My easy solution is to add 3 XT-90 connectors, two males and one female. The male ones are for 120 sources (inverter and the shore), and the female is for the line to the trailer AC distribution. Only one male could mate with the female at a time. so it is failed proof. I have to disconnect and reconnect manually, but don't need to carry that big switch box.
Very cool! Thanks for sharing your methods.
An easy solution is to get rid of the inverter install an inverter/ charger. It has an internal transfer relay, which sends sure power or inverter power, depending on whether you’re plugged in or not.
Rigging a bus right now for a job where i will have shore power and take short camping trips, i think im gonna do almost this exact setup just without the solar charging until i make a bit more money
So I have a question I have a 50 amp 5th wheel and I have a shore power plug in the far back of the trailer and I want to add another shore power plug closer to the convince center on the side of the trailer the original plug wire goes to a surge guard in the storage bay in and out to the Victron Multi plus 2 then to the main panel so what do I need to NOT remove the original shore power inlet plug but to have both plugs work if I chose to plug into one or the other? Having the option of both locations.
This is a really well made video. I love it!
Thanks!
thanks a lot!
this video helped me kinda think out and solidify my plans for my fully 12v system (with just a little cigarette lighter inverter for my laptop).
line1=solar panels>charge controller>battery bank
line 2=shore power>battery charger and breaker panel so i can charge my laptop and drone and everything without draining my battery bank when hookups are available
So you only need 1 positive bus bar, which sends power from the battery out, and receives the charge back into the battery (when on shore power)?
Hey there, yes that is correct, power flows in and out of the battery on the same positive bus bar, at different times. And the same for the negative bus bar. Hope that helps, thanks for tuning in!
@@rosslukeman thank you
A simple manual transfer switch is much cheaper but ye automated is nice. Maybe updated for the future on my camper.
Just get an inverter charger, which has the internal relate to switch from shore power to inverter power when there is no shore power
Hi Victor, I did mention this at the end of the video where I show an inverter-charger on camera and make the comparison with what's taught in this video.
Great video! I’m trying to figure out if I can use an older RV inverter/convertor box with my solar. (Still a work in progress). I’m thinking I might be able to use it by removing some guts. Thoughts? Anyone! Not just Luke!
Does the inverter need to have a true ground, or just a chassis ground, if there is not shore ground?
Ground it to the chassis.
Wouldn't it be easier to have a manual switch for your inverter? Turn it off when connecting to shore power. Done. No? Or could that harm the inverter, having it turned off, but having shore power meet with its positive cable?
Also means your inverter isn't running when not needed.
Hi Harley, thanks for stopping in. You are welcome to go with a manual option. Typically automated is easier, but some people like to turn switches themselves. So there's no right answer on that. Typically the switch would go from one source to the other and not mix them. Blue Sea 9009 or something like that.
@@rosslukeman thanks for the response (and the videos!). I realised after posting that this might not be the best and safest idea just to save some money.
Do you know if an inverter/charger must be left switched on for the shore power to flow through it? I'd like the inverter to be turned off unless in use. I'll do some research on this but thought I'd also ask here. Thanks 🙏🏼
@@harley5273 Hey there, glad that helped, thanks for checking out my videos. Inverter-chargers turn off their inverter when shore power is present. This is all automated. Did you watch the end of the video? ; )
Can you better explain the wiring of the outlet in with the shore power for the battery charging option? Or show an up close picture from your video?
I desperately need your advice! Everyone, feel free to advise me as well.
I had 2 men working on the solar system in van.
They replaced the batteries with a LiFePO4 12.8V 78Ah and a 12.8V 35Ah 448Wh.
They installed a Pure Sine Wave Inverter 12V Input, Power 2500W, Output 120V.
I also have a Victron Smart Solar Charge Controller, MPPT 100/30.
When the electrician hooked up everything sparks began flying, the system got hot, and he has given up trying to set it up. I have no solar power now in my van, which is my home.
Please help! I can't waste any more money and I have no idea what I need. Thank you.
Hi there, it sounds like something short-circuited. That's usually the only time sparks will fly like that. The electrician should have been able to trace back what happened. You need someone that knows what they're doing it sounds like. You might look at it yourself, in a lot of ways the systems are simple, each item just has a positive and negative. If you cross them or touch them together then it will create a short circuit and damage components. If you don't feel like you can/will figure it out yourself, then the best I can say is to get someone else who knows what they're doing. Any technician will need to look at your system to trace the problem, myself included.
Question : What gauge wire do I use, running from the transfer switch to the distribution panel
Now add a converter to the mix 120V to 12V
In this system, that would be the charger, which is 120V to 12V. That replaces the converter in this case.
great explanation.... thanks for the help
Thanks Steven, I'm glad that was helpful!
how does shore power work into a mostly 12v system?
Hey there, thanks for tuning in. That's kind of big question. In some ways it's shown in this video. I would suggest downloading my Van Power Cheat Sheet: www.rosslukeman.com/vanpower there's a diagram that shows how everything integrates. Hope that helps, thanks for stopping by-
Would you be able to just skip all this by using an inverter charger with pass through AC?
Disregard, I just got to the end of the video...
Good to hear, thanks for watching!
Hey Ross I love your videos and the way you explain everything! I actually followed the same system you show in the video in my van, the only part I need help with is wiring to the distribution panel. I bought the one you recommended but am wondering do I wire both the transfer switch and inverter to the distribution box? And can I use the outlet on the back of the box to connect either the transfer switch or inverter? Sorry, these might be simple questions but I'd appreciate the help, thanks!
This is a great explanation. But I'd like more information. I've got a old sliding truck camper that's got existing wiring power breaker panel. What I want to do is take all my solar components ie-solar panels,mppt,100w inverter, lithium batteries,b2b charger, and fuse block that I stripped from my van and plan on putting it in the camper. I know how to connect all the solar components together I just don't know how to tie it into the existing camp or electrical and what do I do with the existing battery in the camper. I understand the transfer switch part but how do I connect it to the RV breaker panel? And what do I do with the old existing AGM battery? Also can I connect lithium and AGM batteries together?
Hi Brian, thanks for checking out my video. I would be glad to help with this but it's beyond a RUclips comment. I would be glad to work with you as a student of my electrical training, or via consulting. Here are those links:
www.rosslukeman.com/offerings
www.rosslukeman.com/vanpower
Thank you,
Ross Lukeman
I wish you would show installation of distribution panel.
I have shore power running directly into a WFCO WF8735 Converter with AC CB and DC fuses. When plugged into shore power my converter charges my Battery at ~79.8% efficiency.
I also have a Solar Panel with a 40A MPPT charge controller Directly to my battery. ~94% Efficiency
I want to run an 3000W inverter off of my battery and my shore power into an ATS to power my AC System without my Converter trying to pick up the DC load of my battery.
This runs into the problem of Concurrent Charging that you mentioned in your video. With my MPPT and the Converter both charging my battery.
I would normally just pull the fuse in the converters charge to break that circuit when I am without shore power. But wondering if there is a way to power my AC Appliances with my inverter and shore power without the risk of double charge circuits to my battery or worse. My inverter running into my converter then my DC output vice just my DC circuits running off my battery
Hi, I think I understand what you're going for. I don't see the problem with your MPPT and converter charging your batteries concurrently. I am guessing you have lead batteries and this is the limitation on how much charge current can go into your batteries? Here is a video I did on concurrent charging that may be useful: ruclips.net/video/x7U9oZfoJpw/видео.html
As far as avoiding charging loops, the converter in that WF8735 is just a battery charger. They just call it a converter. Anyhow, that charger is wired to one of the AC breakers in the WF8735 unit. What you need to do is shut off all power to the WF8735 unit, then pull these wires and re-route/extend them over and connect them inside the transfer switch to the shore power incoming line like I showed in the video. So the converter only turns on with shore power, and not when the inverter is in use. I hope that helps. Thanks for checking out my video.
Like and subscribed, thank you! I also downloaded your cheat sheet and purchased your VC framework. I appreciate your sharing knowledge!
Hey Josh, thanks for subscribing and picking up the cheat sheet and VC Framework. I appreciate your support. More to come!
Love your explanations. How can I combine solar to a Victron Multiplus?
Hi Ross….I would like to have my a/c system ran only by shore power when able, therefor I wouldn’t be connected to my battery and no need for an inverter. I also would like shore power to charge my battery which will supply my d/c needs.
Could I run my shore line to a breaker/breakers that would feed my a/c battery charger and also my house a/c system?
Also, can I run the dc system while charging the battery? Sorry for the beginner level questions
I like your teaching skills, just remember it's OK to slow down on certain "component hookup" however you are very helpful. ✌
Thanks for tuning in and for the feedback! Sometimes I get comments that I drone on too long. I guess it comes down to different people liking different styles. In general I don't mind making more drawn out explanations. Good to hear that's your style.
Great Video Ross. So informative. I have one question. Isn’t the PD converter charger, a charger? You have a separate battery charger correct? Do you need that if you have the PD converter charger which charges the battery when hooked up to shore power.
Thanks for tuning in Dan, great to hear you enjoyed the video! On the PD converter, yes that is just a battery charger built into the Progressive Dynamics distribution box. It's just a charger (120V to 12V). I guess the name is related to the inverter (12V to 120V). But yeah, sounds like you already have a charger. Hope that helps!
Thanks for the tip to connect the charger directly to the mains wiring in the switch. I've wired it from the breaker so I need to make sure to turn it off when I turn on the inverter so it doesnt have a "free energy" loop lol
Is there anyway to get a wifi signal from this system? Your videos take things slow enough for me to understand. True educator. Thanks
Hi John, thanks for the kind words, I'm glad you're enjoying the videos! As far as WiFi specifically, no, none of the components shown here emit or communicate with WiFi signals. There are a couple that do Bluetooth, but that's all. For the Victron components in the video, they could be connected to a Victron GX device, and those devices will pick up a WiFi signal, if one is available. Hope that answers your question, thanks-
With respect to this excellent video, for a fraction of the cost of the victron inverter/charger why not just add another 30 amp charger and a much larger inverter?
Thanks
Because these systems are already complicated, you're not going to save that much, and people do double the engineering to save a few dollars. It would work, just not my style.
If I just want shore power and not solar/alternator what do I need to plug into?
great video, thanks
Thank you Terry!
Awesome video!!! I also have a Generator in my van. How do I add that + alternator + shore power? Would I need a 3 way transfer switch?
Hi Herb, you would plug in shore power and the generator into one of these transfer switches. The alternator wouldn't go through the transfer switch, it would just connect to system positive and negative, the 12V part of the system that links to the batteries.
Brilliant simple explanation thanks 👊👍
I have my shore power set up so I can entirely or partially bypass the house power when charging. This allows under ideal shore power situations to be able to give the house system arrest after charging, or in situations like when you're plugged into someone's residence to keep higher current items (like I microwave) on the house power so you don't blow the circuit breaker in the residence.
Hi Ross, thank you for the great videos! Quick question, also it might be a dumb question... When I syphon off power for my charger, does it affect the charger's output? I will be running a Progressive Dynamics PD9160ALV 12V Lithium Ion Battery Converter/Charger - 60 Amp. Just want to make sure my "tapping" into the lines the way you show it wont affect anything. Thanks!!
Also, do you ever do a short consulting zoom meeting where I show you what I have so far and you give recommendations / tips?
I have done up all my layouts and wiring diagrams, but want to make sure it's correct. This is my first project and I am super green with electrical
Hey there, I'm not sure if I understand the charger question, but I'm going to say no, the charger will put out its full rated output in this scenario. On the zoom-style calls, yes I have those available Thu-Sat each week and would be glad to look over what you've got designed thus far. Here is my "Work with Me" page: www.rosslukeman.com/offerings
Thanks,
Ross
I'm bit confused about last bit you've mentioned in your video - EasyPlus switching off inverter when you plug in shore power.
I've got EasyPlus Compact 12/1600/70 and need it to be switched ON to pass through shore power from the grid to the van.
So in my set up I'm hooking up to the grid, switching Easy Plus "On" and I get 230V in all sockets on board.
At the same time charger side kicks in and is topping up my Lifepo battery.
My problem is, in a cold weather BMS will protect battery and cut off charging which for some reason makes easy plus cut off shore power.
What I'm doing wrong? Why inverter / charger side can't be off and just pass through 230V from the grid.
That was my whole point of having easy plus compact with beakers fitted to simplify install.
Thanks for very informative video.
Hi Pete, I was saying that the inverter-charger will turn off its internal inverter when it detects shore power, but as you concluded the unit itself is left on by the user.
On the BMS shutting down everything, that sort of makes sense that even the 230V grid power could not get in. Do you have a Victron BMS that's controlling the EasyPlus? An easy fix may just be to have a little heating pad on the batteries to prevent this shutdown from happening. Whether the EasyPlus can let shore power through while turning off battery charging, I am not sure. Perhaps there is a setting for this in the programming. You might also ask in the Victron Community forum. As I mentioned though, you might get a battery heater to avoid the situation altogether. I hope that helps!
Thanks,
Ross
Help! I have a trailer with a factory solar panel. I had a jack installed on the tub where the battery so I could also use a suitcase panel. Told that I would still need a controller for it. Is this true? The controller inside the trailer not able to recognize it? My plan is if I have to park under trees where the solar on the trailer would not get sun. I would like to put a panel out in a sunny area. Plus.. maybe double the panels even when parked in the sun to charge battery faster.
Hey there, great question. You have to watch mixing panels of different voltages, as that can make the whole system fall to the voltage of the lowest-voltage panel, severely reducing output. If the voltages are close them you can mix them without as much loss. The 2nd charge controller does sound like a nice solution, as both solar charge controllers could be connected to the battery (this would be called "connecting them in parallel"), and whatever power came in whichever controller would make it to the battery. It might be good to put a switch (or just a breaker that you can switch off) in the Batt Positive line from the suitcase panel controller, as these solar controllers can become a slight draw on the battery (although with newer designs, that draw is getting to be less and less) without a solar panel hooked up. Hope that gives you some ideas! Thanks for the question-
4 days looking for this answer. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
Great to know this video ended the search! Thanks for tuning in-
where do you tie in the vehicle power? Does the charge controller have an input for vehicle power to charge while in tow?
thanks
Hey CMB, you tie into vehicle power at the engine battery positive, the charge controller is only for solar. For engine charging you would get a separate DC-DC charger. Renogy makes some combination solar controller (MPPT)/DC-DC chargers, but you may not want to combine those functions as those units limit how much you can get from both sources simultaneously.
Yes, Aplus and thanks.
Will this work if your appliances and lights are dc powered
Hey there, this video was mainly concerned with what to do with incoming AC power, but the battery charger and battery in the system are all about DC power. Anytime there is a battery in the system you can tap in for DC power. Great question, thanks for tuning in!
Most helpful video on RUclips I’ve ever watched. Well done.
Wow! I appreciate that!
Mr lukeman Is deceptive Good.
Great video. The all In one system who makes it and where do you get it from.
Hey there, the all-in-one is the MultiPlus 2000VA by Victron, the vendor I partner with is Vanlife Outfitters: www.vanlifeoutfitters.com/store/victron-energy-12-2000-80-multiplus-inverter-charger-new/?ref=VPMM (affiliate link). Thanks for tuning in!
I am wanting to add shore power to my van. I already have the Renogy DCC50S DC-DC Charger installed. It runs the charging from my solar and alternator to the house batteries. Can I use the TS-30 Transfer Switch to add a Progressive Dynamics Mighty Mini AC/DC Panel and Converter/Smart Charger into my system. The end result I am looking for is to have 3 options for charging my house batteries. i.e. shore, alternator, and solar.
I could be wrong but I don't think that Mighty Mini is the right product. It will have a single line in from the Transfer Switch. Problem is...when you unplug and run the inverter into the transfer switch, it's going to think it has shore power and turn on the converter to charge your batteries. So your batteries will charge your batteries, can't have a loop like that. You should just get a charger and a naked AC/DC panel like the PD5000 or the WFCO 8930/50. That's my quick take on it.
@@rosslukeman If I understand you correctly, I would hook my DCC50S DC-DC Charger to the Default Power Source Wires on the DS30 Transfer Switch, and the ac-dc converter charger would be hooked to the Dynamic Source Wires on the DS30 Transfer Switch. The Transfer switch would then figure out if I was hooked to shore power, or if I was powering from the DCC50S DC-DC Charger, and send output power to my Battery Bank, which would send power through my inverter and ut to my 120v and 12v outlets?
Best answer to my question of ALL the other videos you nailed it in under 2 minutes! Thank you!!
Hey there, awesome to hear this answered your question. Thanks for checking out my video!
that i was lookinfor nice inf . i have question ? can i use this system in a food trailer .
Yes you can, will work fine for that.
@@rosslukeman thank you so much , i have 20,000 watt for all my appliances very big food trailer ? What would you recommend? thank you
i have 120/240 and my breker 50amp
I just bought a 1985 motor home and this thing is rigged and this video helps me a TON to redo the power management! I love you!
Glad that was helpful, good luck with the overhaul!