Great video. its a nice, clean, simple vid showing the ease of installing a 30amp ATS unit... For those with a 50amp RV, the process is the same, but with one extra wire, of which a 50a ATS has the extra connection ready to accept the extra wire.... simple, but 50a wire is a lot stiffer wire to work with.... I must say that replacing the entire power cord is easy enough, but far from the most economical way to solve the failed 30a plug... because it WILL fail again in the same manner. the better option would be to cut the plug off the end of the cord and install a new QUALITY 30a plug that has the ability to take a lot more heat before becoming damaged, which almost ANY of the commercial quality replacement plugs will do this.... OR, by installing a 50amp plug and then using an adaptor, which then, the adaptor becomes the "sacrificial" weak link, which is much cheaper to replace than the entire cord, and much easier to replace periodically than the plug on the end of the cord....
Great video, I was able to determine from the link it will work with my shore and solar inverter setup, I do not have a generator. Ordered it and anxious for it to arrive.
Most Automatic Generator Transfer Switches use AC coil that buzz - hum. I found only one company that uses DC coils that do not buzz and hum: SCO, they make both a 30amp the LPT30BRD and 50 amp Automatic Transfer Switches.
Thanks for the video👍🏼 We are building a school bus conversion here in Louisiana. Just ordered this transfer switch, the link you provided isn’t the same as the video but I trust it is the same quality.
I have a massive solar battery bank that I want to power the transfer switch instead of a generator. I have a generator but it will charge the batteries instead. If I want the switch to maintain shore power even if there is a current from the battery bank ("generator side"), can I just switch them? Plug the shore power in the "generator line" and run the battery bank to the "shore line"?
Thanks for the video. I have a question about a connection strategy. Everything is the same between shore power and the line inside, the only difference is with the Gen connection. The Gen is outside so a plug must be run to it. Now this would run from the plug( in this case a120/240 L type) to the Gen connection in the Tbox correct? I would plug it in, in an emergency and start it but without engaging the breaker on the Gen, then the Tswitch would still be on shore power until I engaged the breaker with a 30 sec wait time and the Tswitch would change feeds, correct.? Does this switch then detect the re-energizing of shore power and switch back or do you have to switch off the Gen first?
Good video. I have a generator and an inverter for my solar panel system...do you know of a transfer switch that will handle all 3 (shore, generator, inverter) sources?
So it’s fine to have the generator in that port? The CO won’t seep into the RV? I’m Confused on why people mount them on the bumper and what not instead of the under section.
This is where the generator is mounted from the factory. It has an exhaust pipe that is routed out the side away from the RV. Usually they are on the bumper because the RV did not come with one and there is no place or easy way to put it under the RV
I have a question I’m not sure if you’ll be able to answer. I have a transfer switch with a know and it appears to have broken should I completely replace or is there a way to repair?
For the price, I would probably just replace it. They have contactors inside that can be replaced if that is the problem but it's not much more to just replaced the entire transfer switch
do all RV's that have an onboard generator automatically have a transfer switch? Also if you have a 50amp shore power plug because your RV is 50amp does that mean you probably have, or have to have a 50amp transfer switch if you plan on installing/replacing one? And finally if you install a surge protector, would it need to be installed including the generator transfer switch? thanks.
A lot of RVs do not have a transfer switch. To run on generator you must plug the shore power cord into the generator. If you installed a whole RV surge protector, you would install it right where the power enters the distribution box, after the transfer switch.
Is that the only way the switch can be mounted? I need mine to mount horizontal. I'm fitting this transfer switch into a class a motorhome that has a simular but different oem switch
I don't agree with your comment about your plug being loose from using them a lot. The reason for this is the receptacle more than the plug. The receptacle provides the tension on the male plug. This tension can weaken over a period of time due to heat from multiple usage of the plug and high amperage usage. Using more than 80% of the capacity for long periods of time will cause this. Some male plugs allow you to open the pin which will put more tension on the connection. When you plug into a receptacle it should be a tight fit. If not there is a problem or there will be.
You misunderstood what I was describing I think. The male plug pins will actually start to separate from the wire inside of the plug and resistance will increase and higher resistance will cause heat, which could lead to a meltdown or fire. This has nothing to do with the recepticle.
@@JackofAllMasterofNone Your male plug gets like that either from the heat generated from the pins not making good contact with the receptacle (high resistance) or continued high amperage use. There is resistance between the two surfaces and this is what causes heat which melts the rubber. If you tear the rubber plug apart the connection inside will probably be good.
@@robertdickinson9837 I did cut apart the plug. The problem was inside of the male plug. You could wiggle the male pins which were obviously loose. Stop trying to argue with me about this. I know exactly what I'm talking about. Thanks.
Outstanding DIY for Class C Motorhome. I have and continue to search for frecken hours, and yours are great. Tks
Very good video, easy to follow and I like the way you presented the install without a lot of nonsense. JOB WELL DONE.
Simple and straight forward, I can see clearly now how a transfer switch works. Thanks for the demonstration in folksy terms.
Thank you so much for your video! It saved a lot of heartache and frustration for us!
Great video. its a nice, clean, simple vid showing the ease of installing a 30amp ATS unit...
For those with a 50amp RV, the process is the same, but with one extra wire, of which a 50a ATS has the extra connection ready to accept the extra wire.... simple, but 50a wire is a lot stiffer wire to work with....
I must say that replacing the entire power cord is easy enough, but far from the most economical way to solve the failed 30a plug... because it WILL fail again in the same manner.
the better option would be to cut the plug off the end of the cord and install a new QUALITY 30a plug that has the ability to take a lot more heat before becoming damaged, which almost ANY of the commercial quality replacement plugs will do this.... OR, by installing a 50amp plug and then using an adaptor, which then, the adaptor becomes the "sacrificial" weak link, which is much cheaper to replace than the entire cord, and much easier to replace periodically than the plug on the end of the cord....
Great video, I was able to determine from the link it will work with my shore and solar inverter setup, I do not have a generator. Ordered it and anxious for it to arrive.
Great video couldn't figure out why ac would work with gen set.......SOLVED
Most Automatic Generator Transfer Switches use AC coil that buzz - hum. I found only one company that uses DC coils that do not buzz and hum: SCO, they make both a 30amp the LPT30BRD and 50 amp Automatic Transfer Switches.
Thanks for the video👍🏼
We are building a school bus conversion here in Louisiana.
Just ordered this transfer switch, the link you provided isn’t the same as the video but I trust it is the same quality.
I just checked the link in the description and it is the one I used. It could either say TRC or Southwire on it, but it's the same.
@@JackofAllMasterofNone
Happy to hear that! I’m a southwire fan. Thanks again💚💛💜
Great video! Answered all my questions.
Does mounting position Matter? Label states CAUTION do not mount with face Down (Parallel to Earth).
Thanks for the video!!!
I have a massive solar battery bank that I want to power the transfer switch instead of a generator. I have a generator but it will charge the batteries instead. If I want the switch to maintain shore power even if there is a current from the battery bank ("generator side"), can I just switch them? Plug the shore power in the "generator line" and run the battery bank to the "shore line"?
Yes. Assuming the battery bank is feeding a 120vac inverter.
Thanks for the video. I have a question about a connection strategy. Everything is the same between shore power and the line inside, the only difference is with the Gen connection. The Gen is outside so a plug must be run to it. Now this would run from the plug( in this case a120/240 L type) to the Gen connection in the Tbox correct? I would plug it in, in an emergency and start it but without engaging the breaker on the Gen, then the Tswitch would still be on shore power until I engaged the breaker with a 30 sec wait time and the Tswitch would change feeds, correct.? Does this switch then detect the re-energizing of shore power and switch back or do you have to switch off the Gen first?
Good video. I have a generator and an inverter for my solar panel system...do you know of a transfer switch that will handle all 3 (shore, generator, inverter) sources?
you would need 2 transfer switches OR use the generator to top off the batteries when they're running low and solar isn't keeping up.
Can I use this with my ecoflow?
Is there a way to have the generator auto start after loosi shore power?
How does it know when to start the generator automatically after loosing shore power. That is what I'm confused on
This doesn't automatically start the generator
@@JackofAllMasterofNone what kit would I need with the ATS to sense it to auto start?
So it’s fine to have the generator in that port? The CO won’t seep into the RV? I’m
Confused on why people mount them on the bumper and what not instead of the under section.
This is where the generator is mounted from the factory. It has an exhaust pipe that is routed out the side away from the RV. Usually they are on the bumper because the RV did not come with one and there is no place or easy way to put it under the RV
No need to replace the whole cord. Get a cord cap and cut the plug head off. Strip wires and install new cord cap. very simple. much cheaper.
Yeah I did that for a backup.
Why would you want to run your gen if your plugged in?
I have a question I’m not sure if you’ll be able to answer. I have a transfer switch with a know and it appears to have broken should I completely replace or is there a way to repair?
For the price, I would probably just replace it. They have contactors inside that can be replaced if that is the problem but it's not much more to just replaced the entire transfer switch
do all RV's that have an onboard generator automatically have a transfer switch? Also if you have a 50amp shore power plug because your RV is 50amp does that mean you probably have, or have to have a 50amp transfer switch if you plan on installing/replacing one? And finally if you install a surge protector, would it need to be installed including the generator transfer switch? thanks.
A lot of RVs do not have a transfer switch. To run on generator you must plug the shore power cord into the generator. If you installed a whole RV surge protector, you would install it right where the power enters the distribution box, after the transfer switch.
do I need to disconnect batteries?
wouldnt that make the long cord that hooks to main power energized as well ?
No
Is that the only way the switch can be mounted? I need mine to mount horizontal.
I'm fitting this transfer switch into a class a motorhome that has a simular but different oem switch
Mounting position does not matter. I have one in my Semi, Laying flat on the floor and horizontal to fit my space and needs
You need to ck with the mfg. Some say DO NOT LAY FLAT. I believe those are the bigger ones that have mechanical contractors
why not just replace the plug on the shore power power cable
will it work with an inverter instead of generator?
Yes
If both power sources are on which one will be selected? Which one is default - has priority? Thanks.
Hoe do you open the box?
I don't agree with your comment about your plug being loose from using them a lot. The reason for this is the receptacle more than the plug. The receptacle provides the tension on the male plug. This tension can weaken over a period of time due to heat from multiple usage of the plug and high amperage usage. Using more than 80% of the capacity for long periods of time will cause this. Some male plugs allow you to open the pin which will put more tension on the connection. When you plug into a receptacle it should be a tight fit. If not there is a problem or there will be.
You misunderstood what I was describing I think. The male plug pins will actually start to separate from the wire inside of the plug and resistance will increase and higher resistance will cause heat, which could lead to a meltdown or fire. This has nothing to do with the recepticle.
@@JackofAllMasterofNone Your male plug gets like that either from the heat generated from the pins not making good contact with the receptacle (high resistance) or continued high amperage use. There is resistance between the two surfaces and this is what causes heat which melts the rubber. If you tear the rubber plug apart the connection inside will probably be good.
@@robertdickinson9837 I did cut apart the plug. The problem was inside of the male plug. You could wiggle the male pins which were obviously loose. Stop trying to argue with me about this. I know exactly what I'm talking about. Thanks.