How to PROPERLY use and adjust your sight
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- Опубликовано: 22 май 2024
- Learning how to move your sight properly is essential for archery regardless of which bow you shoot.
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Whether it's target olympic recurve, compound, or field/3D shooting, you can gain easy points by using the sight in the right way.
Here I show you how to use, adjust and calibrate your sight correctly so that you can keep your groups in the middle.
If you follow the steps and calibration here, you will be much faster at making adjustments and will lose less points during competition.
Enjoy, and thanks for watching!
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It is simple ballistic math. I have a draw length of 28”, distance from my aiming eye to the Shibuya sight is 940mm. Therefore moving the sight 1mm is 1/940 approx 1 milli radian. Which equates to moving your arrow group 9.4mm per 10m. At 70m with a 122cm target each ring is 6cm. 1mm movement of the sight ie 1 mRad will move your group 9.4mm x 7 = 65.8mm (6.58cm). Each ring width of a 122cm target is 60mm (6cm). So if you group in the blue you need to move your sights 4 rings across which is 4mm on you sight pin. On the Shibuya it would take 4 turns. The elevation knob 1 click = 0.05mm and windage knob 1 click = 0.044mm of sight pin movement.
Love it!
Yeah, simple. 🙄
Only, when you calculate your draw from the button in the raiser. Classic draw length definition from front of the raiser where click clicks - minus ca 5,5cm, because horizontal sight bar covers the raiser partially
Thanks as a novice of six weeks and only having my sight for less than a week, I am on a steep learning curve. Also I am 70 years old, old dog new tricks comes to mind.
Thabjs for the info. Made me think, when you said about the size of the gold.
Very useful information, as I'm just starting to use a sight. Thanks!
I swear you read my mind with these videos: I had this hang up in my head that I could only move my sight a certain amount until my coach corrected me on that misconception. After throwing that idea out, it was way easier to get groups in yellow.
Loved the breakdown on what outer rings correspond to what in the yellow...that's a great perspective I've never heard before.
Haha awesome! Glad the video was helpful :)
Absolute gold! I never thought much about the amount of clicks before this. I’d trial and error but wasting points in the mean time. I’m going to try your suggestion of working out the exact number of clicks to move so many band of the target. Cheers!
Thank you. I’m just a beginner so I just have a basic cartel sight. However I’d like to get something a little bit better but not too complicated at this stage
Thanks, was useful for me.
Many thanks for this
Great video. Thanks Ashe.
No worries Sean, glad you liked it :) Thanks for watching and commenting again!
Wow! The best explanation I have seen. Thanks.
Happy to help!
You complicated the follow your arrow principle
6 GRADS IS MY GUESS. GOOD VIDEO, VERY USEFUL.
In compound it will be 4-5 👍
Brilliant channel. Nothing as informative on the internet for ages and then 2 of you come at once. You and Jake Kaminski. Struggling to keep.up with the pair of you. I've heard, regarding the clicks on the slght, the most important click is the like button. Great stuff on here mate, please keep it coming and thank you.
Thanks so much! Hahah love it, exactly! Thanks for watching the videos, be sure to check out the website too if you haven't already for some detailed guides on the technique areas (www.onlinearcheryacademy.com).
i know right, my 2 favorite, very informative, archery enthusiasts agreeing on things. goes to show they know their stuff. Great work guys, very inspirational and helpful with my archery 👌😎😁
thank you
Nice presentation, I'd like to add a little detail, the further away from the riser is the sight dot the less amount of clicks is required, the closer it is to the riser the more turns has to be made... many people set this horizontal setting at the max distance regardless the distance they shoot at, which is not ideal because the visual size of the sight dot has to change according to the perceptual size of the gold ring to maintain the same visual picture whatever the distance is...just my two cents. Great channel. Have a great day
"FORS": Front Opposite Rear Same, is the acronym wh use when adjusting a weapon with a front sight elevation adjustment (think iron sights on certain rifles). This also applies to bows as the sight pins on the bow translates to the front sight on a firearm...The peep, or the shooters eye, being the rear sight. If you need your grouping to move up, adjust the sight down. If you need your group to move down, move your sight up...or as he explained, follow the arrows...If they group high, move your sight up. If they group low, move the sight down. I know it's counter intuitive and makes the brain hurt.
Could you do a video on tournaments? I’m going to my first indoor one at end of October
Could you please do a video on how to take your first shots with a new scope/pin? How do you know where to put it so your arrow doesn't wildly miss the target?
Way I do it if no one is around to eyeball me is basically start from a distance where you cant miss the boss. I think I did about 5 yards, which was a guesstimate of half a bunny at the field club.
Noted where my pin was, where the arrows went. Did a walk back, literally 5 yards at a time at short range.
I do often have the glade to myself at the field club though, so would imagine its not so easy if your club wouldnt let you do this/there isnt the space to safely do it if others are also shooting.
Re first 3mins, the other way to think of this is.... you’re keeping the sight on the gold, but adjusting the sight screws moves the bow up/down etc. So, for example, your arrows grouping to the left, you need to move your bow to the right - and by adjusting the sight screws you do this.
Great way of thinking about it!
I take the approach more is better with sight adjustment. The worse that can happen you end up the in the same scoring zone at the other side of the target. I give it a good crank, as like you said its lots of clicks at distances
Exactly! Much better to overdo it than under do it!
Have you ever drawn a graph of your sight marks? I.e. lateral = distance, vertical = sight mark. When I’ve done this, it’s a straight line from about 30y to 100y, but curves over below 30y. The great use of this is that if you find, one day, that your sighters show, say, 2mm higher than usual (so 2mm above the graph’s line), when you change distance the difference will still be 2mm above the graph line. So you’re on point from the first arrow at the new distance. (Also, of course, the graph will tell you your sight mark for ANY distance).
Hey Tom :) I haven't - but it's great to do, thanks for the tip :)
Thanks so much. I am a 8 month in beginner. I understand about chasing the arrow with the sight. But my Avalon sight has hardly any horizontal leeway. About 8mm in total so if I shoot a group left blue I struggle to manually aim to compensate . I am talking indoors at 18 metres.
I'm a similar beginner. I had a Cartel X-Pert sight and its horizontal/wind age adjustment sounds similar to the Avalon ie pretty awful. I saw a Win & Win WS600 being sold cheaply and bought it at the spur of the moment. I had been saving for a Ultima II but after a few weeks with the WS600 I'm very happy with it. On the weekend we had a good cross wind, adjusted the horizontal 1 full turn and the arrows were going in the gold. I couldn't have made that adjustment with my old sight as easily.
I feel your pain, unfortunately that's quite common. The best thing to do in that case is to relocate the sight pin in the sight manually by threading it through :)
Yeah, that's awesome when you can do that - you can also get a small wingnut or thumbscrew to replace the normal Shibuya windage screw. If you look closely in the video that's what I've done to mine. That way if you need to move it a large amount you can do it by hand rather than fumbling for the allen key :)
@@OnlineArcheryAcademy Dude. That's an excellent idea. You nailed it. I've been so frustrated that I couldn't adjust much while shooting a round because there's no time to get my tiny %$#@%$#! spanner out and fiddle away. lol.
Remember: you paid extra for the dials on your sight, so you might as well use them! 🤔
I couple this with:
you bought it with the "unlimited turns" plan, not with a "pay per click" rate, so move it!
What do the numbers on the horizontal side bar mean 1,2,3,4,5,6 where the pin goes in? And also for 50 yards do I need to have my sight all the way in ?
great video....thanks!!!
I'm beginning to learn that "good equipment = predictable results"
The lateral adjustment of my sight is crap, vertical is ok but the screw rattles like hell
Exactly! Great point!
How many arrows do you need to shoot to sight the sight in?
can i ask i buy a second hand sf brand limbs is that good?
Question: I reversed my bow site so that I could shoot from 20 yards up to 100 yards - aiming at target centre. Without doing that the longest distance I could get was 60 yards and site pin was almost off the bottom vertical bar. Then recently someone said they had never seen that before and surely it reduces accuracy at shorter distances ? Can you talk about more about site bar positioning to accommodate a wide range of distances ?
It's a good hack to get the longer distances! It is less accurate as the sight is closer to your eye but needs must sometimes!
I think it also depends on your string alignment. If you align on the aperture, doesn't it move the relative aperture a larger distance than aligning on the riser? Because my estimate and experience with your example was 40-50 clicks but I align on the aperture.
Exactly, you've got it! If you align on the sight the effect of moving the windage is magnified because you will also move the string slightly, so doing that calibration as you've already done is perfect 👌
i would movie my site by 2 full rotation forward (makes it go left) if it is a micro adjustment
How do you generally adjust the sight for different distances? Say for example I get sighted in at 15 meters, but then move to a 35 meter shot. Is there a rule of thumb for how much to adjust per unit of distance?
I was watching some 3D course videos today and all the shots were at different distances and they were only doing 1 arrow per target. I was wondering how you'd sight in this instance, or if it just takes tons of practice.
Great video BTW!
Thanks! You begin to get a feel for the distances and the 3D archers will have probably made what's called a 'sight tape', which effectively has marks for your sight for each distance on a scale. So they can estimate the distance and then place the sight from there. There isn't a rule of thumb for everyone as it varies greatly on poundage and your setup, but you can find your rough approximation by getting sight marks every 5 or 10m, and then marking them on your sight, then you know where to move it :)
@@OnlineArcheryAcademy Thanks - I'm pretty new to archery and learning new stuff all the time!
Left field questio Ash: How does the 5 grain per pound bow weigh apply to Recurve bows? Or can it?
I haven't heard of this...could you explain it a bit more please?
It is about the relation between the arrow weight measured in grains in relation to the poundage of the bow.
Follow with the front run with the rear sight. How far is impossible to answer unless you know the click value at a given distance.
Normally I would give it a good adjust specially on the vertical direction. On the horizontal I’m with smaller changes. Also Shibuya ...
True, I think quite a lot of archers do that! But as you can see, you actually need more on the horizontal because the movement is smaller!
follow your arrow where it go ,to hit the middle
I have a problem :’V I have to aim with the sight to the right (practically outside the target) so the arrow goes to the yellow part, I’ve already moved it to the left and I can’t do it more cause the sight will fall. I’m currently shooting 12m (I’m a recurve beginner) with a bow of 26. My instructor already change the sight i was using and also the bow ( i went from a 22 to a 24 and now i have a 26, it’s not that hard for me to use the 26 so i think that’s not the problem) and the problem persists. I’ve shoot before with the sight and it didn’t give problems. Does anyone know what might be happening? :’V According my instructor I don’t shoot bad and i have a good posture :C Also I shoot with both eyes open and indoors
Right. I realize until now, spend waste of time to adjust. Never calculate it before
Btw. Its beiter tunnel sight pin?
Exactly! Yeah, it's the Beiter 8mm tunnel :)
All my arrows are really low and to the left. I can't move anything move low and left without losing the pieces.
5
20 clicks @ 18m.
on the 10 /13 length with a Shibuya Dual Click.
5to 6 times outside
On the cheaper manual sights would you estimate that the single graduations represent a single click?
I'm not sure, but I think there will be many clicks per graduation still - the best thing is to do that calibration I mentioned and that way you have a reference for how many clicks per band you need :)
When i practice archery without a sight i was doing fine but when i got one(basic sight) i was not able to hit the target 10 meters thanks for teaching us😂
Edit:im doing traditional archery i feel like a caveman when i got my first sight
3:15
5 to 6 mm to the left
Kann man das auf deutsch bekommen ??
What's your score on 70m in 720 fita round on a good day
Around 670 :)
@@OnlineArcheryAcademy welcome to the Olympics
I had it now two or three times my brain didn’t got the mechanics right and I moved the sight in the wrong direction. Wondering: why it get not better. Those are the days my concentration is < 0. And it felt quite shameful :-(
Don't worry, everyone's done it at some point, I'd be lying if I said I hadn't!
From real pistol shooting - 4 shots define grouping with like 93% probability
35 mts on which no my sight should be
I think 28
my sight does not click so.. i would remember how far is it and adjust for that difference 😂
Haha yeah I guess so in that case 😂
at a guess 3-4 clicks ?
more 2-3 max
A bit more :P
and the right way to move and adjust it is, looking for previously shot.. you'll move you sight right to the shot.. and ready
You forgot to mention that instead of moving your sight you can also move your nocking point.
I wouldn't recommend that, as moving the nocking point would change your bow tuning, so the only two ways really of adjusting the impact point are adjusting your sight and adjusting your aiming point on the target, try and stay away from nocking point adjustment (unless it's to tune the bow). Once it's set, the nocking point shouldn't move :)
18 meter probably like 20 to 25 clicks, 70 meter probably 5 to 8 clicks
Oooh, I guess you were surprised by how much then!
3 clicks left
Maybe i'll turn 8-10 clicks
Two clicks to the left
2 clicks up and 3 clicks left
5 clicks
Haha, I remember that photo. You already know my answer XD
Haha :P
3 clicks from the left
because I'm a dweeb I just say "oh oops my grouping is to the left, so i then I shoot further to the right =p ;) hence why I'm watching this video LOL
4 clicks
Damn i feel stupid now, thought 1 click was 1 band at 70m
Hey, no need to feel stupid! We've all done it. There's no way to know if you haven't been told (or have been told otherwise!). That's why I wanted to make the video :)
Or just throw your site i in the garbage . Loose a bunch of arrows till you figure it out.
i think you need to talk less and show more.