C63 AMG M156 Oil Change (W204)
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- Опубликовано: 4 мар 2020
- In this video I show you how to do an oil change on a Mercedes C63 AMG. This applies to all 63s from this era with the M156 6.2L V8! I recommend 5k intervals between changes, and 5w40 oil.
Drain oil cooler!: • Mercedes C63 AMG M156 ...
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Great video 👍
That SLS tho 🔥
can't believe MB charges $400 CDN for this LOL. Thanks for the video brother!
Great video very help full information on a doing a engine filter and oil change on the C63 AMG W204 M156 engine, i see people are mentioning about drain the oil cooler, my mercedes man says do not drain it because you run the risk of cracking the alloy oil cooler when retiring the bolt , ( so that tell me you really know your stuff ), Mr Reggie, he worked on the ERP and drove a C63 AMG.
As long as you use the correct torque specs when tightening, you won't crack the oil cooler. New washer + correct torque spec = no harm to the cooler. Otherwise you're leaving about a quart and a half of dirty oil in your engine to mix with the new stuff. Another solution is using a vacuum pump to suck all the oil out from the dipstick tube, this is usually how dealers do it actually.
Totally forgot to mention that you should also drain your oil cooler! Made another video for that here: ruclips.net/video/AWVBazyLtaY/видео.html
Pretty easy to do, just don't over-tighten any drain plugs!
ALSO, to clarify, after draining the oil cooler you will need to fill up with around 9.5L or 10 QUARTS of 5w40 oil. If you are NOT draining the oil cooler, you'll need around 9L or 9.5 QUARTS. I know I have mixed up liters and quarts in the past, so keep that in mind.
22ftlb torque for oil drain plug and 11ftlb torque for the cooler plug 🤙🏽
Samuel Abraham for oil cooler .. how many liters of oil it takes?
The funny thing is I haven’t seen anyone drained the oil cooler on the facelift models (2012-2014). I have the 2012 model but cannot locate a drain plug. 🤷🏾♂️
@@dieselstar5 If it’s never been done before the plug is painted black with a heavy coating of paint so it’s almost in invisible. Make sure you take off the plastic shield toward the very front. It is hard to see for sure if it’s never been done on ur car, and it’s extremely annoying to remove all the paint off to actually fit your socket on. Next time I’ve got my car in the air I’ll make a supplement to this vid, but if you’re doing this right now shoot me a DM on instagram and I can help u out
@@mohammadsalem8116 If you drain the engine and cooler completely around 9.2qts although some are able to put closer to 9.5 according to the dipstick
Try to drain the oil cooler too but you have to put in more oil after and it is best to fill when the car is on level ground.
Haha check the pinned comment, forgot to record the oil cooler part. I fill most of the oil with the car in the air only so I can check for any leaks, but you're right, good practice to check and add with the car on the ground 👌🏾
Nice video, would be intrested in seeing how you jack it up and where you mounted the axle stands.
I actually have this right here: ruclips.net/video/094ppDhXVDY/видео.html
Hello . Is normal a bit vacuum in the oil cap during iddle? Is my first time on this car and i dont know if tihis is normal...even if i put my hand is manifold vacuum i guess...thanks a lot
I always change my oil when the car is hot, at least oil above 90C. That way more of the oil can drain and it also drains more quickly. Gotta watch out not to burn yourself though! With oil cooler drained as well I can pour in about 8.5L to 8.7L to hit the max on the dipstick.
Im consistently close to 10L to max out the dipstick, I take out around the same too. Both for this car and my ML63. Started using the suction method like dealers do from the top and have had same the same results with warm oil
Cool vid bro! Can you please say anything about service costs ? Keep up this good content!
Overall haven't been too bad really. All I've had to do are oil changes every 4-5k miles. Air filters, spark plugs, all done at their respective intervals of course
Thanks for the video, very useful.
What line of work are you in besides Youtubing, i m might do the same! 😀
Haha I'm a full time college student, these are my family's cars. I am simply the caretaker :)
You can drain the oil cooler too. For next time.
I recently bought a 2009 c63 amg with only 45k miles on it. The headbolt issue keeps me awake at night, so I plan to get the preventative maintenance soon. What else should I get (maintainence wise) while the car is already in the shop?
Damn that’s super low mileage for an 09, congrats! If it hadn’t already gotten the 38k mile interval trans fluid/filter change and diff fluid change, definitely do both of those. Everything else is pretty basic like checking spark plugs and air filters. Other than that your car shouldn’t really need anything yet. You could change out the power steering fluid if you’d like, but that’s only due at around 70k miles. Headbolts definitely the best thing to do
Just found your channel. Love it. Sorry late to the game. I have a C63 Merc 2012. If i vacuum/syphon the oil out thru the dipstick tube do i need to replace the drain washers on the oil cooler and the oil pan?
Welcome! No need to change the washers if you're changing via the dipstick
@@SamAbraham OMG you're real jk😅 thank you for the reply. Love you car. I did try the rear defuser that you have from the link in your other video but they are sold out 😢
@@c63_tito Haha of course. Email gary@suvneer.com and ask if he has any idea when they will be back in stock. Tell him Sam sent you!
@@SamAbraham definitely will. Last thing i promise for now. 😅Are those your stock headlights? Mine are a bit different. Do you have a part# for them? I want to upgrade mine. They are just regular halogens with the led in the bumper not the headlights. Thank you again. 😊
It's been a few years since this video came out, how's the car doing when it comes to reliability?
I've had no issues with it. Just oil changes every 3-5k miles. Changed spark plugs a little bit ago as preventative maintenance, cleaned out air filters. Its at 50k miles, so I will probably do a transmission fluid/filter change, diff fluid change, power steering fluid change again. Well ahead of MB's interval, but the car does not get driven all that much these days
Sorry , off topic but where did you get your car painted? I’m from Cali as well , thanks bro
CorpsmanUp 1999 Factory paint: Designo Magno Plantinum on the Edition 507. It was available on certain CLS63s, E63s, G63 as well as the 507 C63
where did you get your tools from? I like that wrench
The one for the oil filter? From Harbor Freight believe it or not, Pittsburgh brand. The rest of my hand tools are either Stanley or Husky haha nothing fancy here
Hi mate. Do you have a video of how to jack up the C63? I've heard you shouldn't jack up each side one by one, due to risk of tilting / dropping.
Do you jack up from front centre first, and what is the location for that? Thanks
Just found your other video that shows excatly that. Thanks buddy, you've got it covered! :)
Haha glad you found it!
Good video.Would you recommend adding a zinc additive with the 5w40 oil. I have heard its recommended on these motors because of the cam/ lifter issues.
Bill Lunebach Never heard of that, and I’ve owned M156s for the past 10 years. Doesn’t meant you shouldn’t. Personally I just add two bottles of LiquiMoly Ceratec every oil change. It puts a coating on the internals including the cams/lifters, and the car makes less noise as a result. Buddy of mine has a 190k mike C63 and he’s been doing this since 120k with no major problems aside from maintenance
Don't add all those weird additives, they are made for elder vehicles that needed it. Just change the oil on time and drive correctly.
Daniel Fl. You don’t have to, but Ceratec is highly recommended by most professionals in my area for the M156 for reasons i’ve listed. Using 2 bottles with every change plus changing the oil every 4k-5k miles is perfect for these engines.
If you use liquimolly oil , there is no need to add ceratec because the additives of ceratec are in the oil. I saw a YT interview of a liquimolly scientist say this.
Grey Dog You are absolutely right, learned this recently as well with my BMW. This is if you use LiquiMoly Molygen
Slow the cadence down on your talking just a bit. When you say the specifics you kinda speed up, and it's a little hard to hear you. Thanks for the great info though man. Priceless info.
Since this video I've slowed down a lot haha, thanks for the feedback.
Where is the oil cooler drain plug i can't find it?
You have to remove the front plastic shield as well, and you’ll see the oil cooler toward the front of the bumper. If your oil cooler has never been drained before, the bolt will be painted black and you’ll have a little bit of a hard time getting it loose
hey man pleaseeee tell me where you got that front merc badge, thanks
just the dealer actually haha, same part as what the W205 C class uses haha, its plug n play
How are you able to get two jack stands underneath? Was trying to jack mine up and only see one spot under the care on each side to put a jack on. After the car is lifted where do you place the stands? See all plastic or thin metal that might bend....
Jack up from the front jack point below the car, there’s a small rubber pad in the oil pan area where you can lift it from, then place two jack stands on the points on the sides. The jack points themselves are made of plastic but serve as a buffer in between the stand and the chassis. Nothing bends or breaks, all the thin plastic is just the splash guards, none of the weight of the car will be put on those. If you wanted to lift the car from the rear you’d use the rear diff and then use the rear jack points on the sides for the stands
Actually forgot I made a video on it ruclips.net/video/094ppDhXVDY/видео.html
Thanks!
any issue with the engine i.e. headbolts or lifters?
Nope. Headbolts were only an issue on the much earlier M156s. This is the last model year of it, so most of the issues were resolved. Nothing with lifters either. However, I did have the lifters replaced on my 2009 SL63 when we used to own it a long time ago.
did you raise your c63 from the front, to put it on jack stands?
Yeah I did, I've actually got a video on this if you're curious ruclips.net/video/094ppDhXVDY/видео.html&ab_channel=SamAbraham
3:38 You should order a few oil filters from FCP Euro so you dont have to visit the stealership
I usually buy em in bulk from autohausaz, they were the cheapest last time I ordered
Hello, just found your channel and am in love! Quick question. I am running a higher mileage m156 (70k) I use 1 liquid molly (lifter additive) about every oil change, I heard you mention it in this video. In your opinion would you run Liquid molly twice an oil change or is that overkill? Thanks!
Logan Cooper Hey there! So using any other oil brand, I’ll add two containers of LiquiMoly Ceratec for every oil change (every 5k miles). I do this in my 40k mile C63, and 80k mile ML63. However, if you use LiquiMoly Molygen oil (green in color), it has its own set of additives, in which case you should not need to add any other additives. Glad you like the channel!
@@SamAbraham Awesome! Thanks for the reply!
@@SamAbraham are you sure every 5k miles 2 cans of ceratec?
I’d run AMSOIL European Formula. Greatest European oil on the market. Use it in my BMW and comfortable do 10k oil interval. Test it and its still good after 10k with black stone labs.
Anybody know where I can buy the oil cooler drain plug washer and what size is it? I believe it's aluminum but can I use copper instead?
I can't remember, but I wanna say its the same size as the main oil pan drain plug. I also use the same crush washer.
Samuel Abraham so the oil cooler uses the same size drain plug and washer as the main oil pan? That’s strange bc my oil cooler drain plug is 10mm and my main oil pan drain plug is 13mm.
I totally forgot haha but here's the oil cooler plug washer. Worst case your dealer should have one. www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-auto-trans-torque-converter-drain-plug-seal-007603012104
Yul Strokheet Al-Wauch Depends on the car my friend. C63 oil cooler crush washer is the same as the C63 oil cooler. Different with my ML63
Bro u mentioned somthing about the Oil thickness and some ticking noise associated with that. I have c63 507 coupe 2014 model and when I dont drive it for a week or longer I hear this ticking noise when I run it last for 7 min or so before its gone car always been serviced at MB dealership. So I'm assuming they are using genuine oil but not sure of the oil thickness .. can you please advise me how to get rid of this ticking noise or if it has anything to do with the ticking noise I hear. Much appreciated. Ps car location Dubai /UAE
Hey there, do not worry about the ticking sound. It is completely normal, no matter the oil thickness. Every AMG with this M156 motor makes this sound when its cold. It just takes a moment for the oil to properly lubricate the lifters. The 507 C63 has the best version of the M156 as it is the last version AMG made, and it has pretty much all of the newest part numbers. I assume you go to Gargash Mercedes right? I know they always service my family's cars well, so I am sure they are using the correct 5w40 oil.
That's a Big relief! Yeah I take it to gargash. They actually changed the valve tappets all 32 of them and replaced all camshaft adjusters for me under the warranty but sound still there. That's why I was just checking. Again thx for the reply. Keep em coming videos related to the m156 love ur work
@@ksks4205 What the dealers have done for you is what most of them have done for the m156. The ticking noise if a common thing for this engine.
Also keep in mind that 507s and P31s have the forged pistons. They tend to make a knocking noise at low throttle, especially for the first few minutes. It's just a bit of piston slap due to the cold clearance required for forged pistons. It either goes away or greatly subsides once the engine is fully up to temp.
@@BalanBro2 amazing thank you for the info
Is there a reason you didn't drain the oil from the oil cooler as well?
Check pinned comment! I did just forgot to record lol
@@SamAbraham Haha, cool.
hi quick question does this fit 2015 mb c63 amg 507?
yeah, that's the exact car I used in this video
@@SamAbraham Awesome
No entiendo como puedes usar ese aceite grupo 3 para tu amg. Usa un aceite de mas calidad bajo mi punto de vista.
Motul Xcess es grupo 4. Si crees que este aceite no es bueno, debes ver que ellos usan al concesionario 😂 Es mas importante que cambias con frecuencia. Personas que van a la pista o tienen modificaciones necesitan grupo 5 como Motul 300V
How did the motul engine oil do?
it’s great, been using it in my 156s for years
13mm or 30mm? For the filter ?
13mm
pretty sure its 30mm @@danielbob4310
Sooo what about the oil cooler getting drained…
Check out the pinned comment
I do oil change every 3k for my C63
That’s cool
dude you forgot the oil cooler!
Forgot to record it lol, look at my pinned comment! Good lookin out though
you should have levelled the car to make sure you got all the oil out😬
Joel salinas solo everything that drained out filled the empty containers i used so I can assume the right amount came out
I thought it was 8.5 quarts not 9 :(
All depends how much you get out, should be 9 or a little over if you can get it all out between the pan and the cooler. Just follow what your dipstick says!
Worst oil that oil makes the engine loud liqui moly 5w40 lechteuif is a way better oil
LiquiMoly LHT and Molygen are also great options, but Motul with ceratec is a great one too that makes my engines quieter than either of the LiquiMolys. Climate can play a big role in this. I’ve tried em all and Motul+Ceratec is the best for me
@@SamAbraham I hear you but probably the 6.3 way more aggressive then my clk500 m113 5.0 engine lol but she loves the moly lol
@@hansondardignac7049 Yeah, every engines different. I use LM Molygen in my 335i, and it runs better for my use compared to Motul in that car. Only thing that matters is what you feel is best 👍🏾
@@SamAbraham motul super iam so happy with 8100 exec gen2
You’re car says mobile 1
What the manufacturers advertise on your car isn’t necessarily the best oil, it’s just whenever they signed a contract with haha. Mobil is ok, but not great from experience in terms of valvetrain noise and temps. The only real important things here are the weight you use, and how frequently you change your oil
@@SamAbraham I don’t know about contract or (haha) as you say. I’ve never had a problem with mobile 1 and I I’ve used valvoline, royal purple ext. what I do agree is change your oil regularly. I do at least 4 times a year. I honestly like driving my car I put 25 thousand miles in my C class in over a year. I’ll probably put another 25 in this year as well.