Bought the PLM kit too, I was going to install it on my ML63 when I took apart and repaired the intake manifold, but was disappointed by the quality. Even the fittings for the M156 didn't really work well, and seemed to leak vacuum in my case. Glad yours seem to be fine. I myself will be looking for some better options, I think 63motorsports has all around the best package on the market but its still pretty expensive for a catch can setup
Yea man, I didn’t end up using there can/hoses. But I did use their fittings, so far everything seems to be holding up nicely. I’ll make a video in the future to see how much it picks up. And yea, anything over a couple hundred seems excessive for a simple catch can.
Hey Sam, what were your symptoms with the PLM fittings? Just installed them and now seems like a have a Vac leak. High pitch squeal at idle and when I shut the car off a whooshing noise like pressure release.
@@OGYELLOW Honestly they just fit poorly or didnt fit at all in my case, id guess in your case theres leaking o ring or one of the fittings is just not secured well. And its probably the fault of the fittings, not you!
please dont use teflon tape on AN fittings...They are a flare style connection and their seal is achieved by compressing their opposing cones against each other, NOT THE THREADS. Using teflon tape on AN or flare fittings will almost always ensure that you have a leak. Taping the pipe thread side of the can fittings is correct. For cutting the hoses, use painters tape to wrap where you want to cut and use a cut off wheel or dremel to cut the hose....cut will be cleaner but also when you have hose with mesh weave covering it will keep everything nice and neat and stop the fraying. Foam under the filter boxes.....TAKE THEM OUT AND LEAVE THEM OUT!!!! Our manifolds are a cast magnesium and are notorious for becoming corroded and developing leaks that will drive you insane. The foam does absolutely nothing other than sound abatement but they hold moisture and drastically increase the corrosion rate. When doing this you really should plan to change the PCV out for a new one at the same time as they DO go bad, but more often they short convoluted hose dry rots, becomes brittle and just falls apart. And yes, you DO have to remove the intake to change the PCV but it is NOT a bad job at all. Just take your time with all of the electrical connections and disconnect the fuel line so you can get the intake completely out. Do NOT unbolt the fuel rail from the manifold trying to keep from disconnecting the fuel line....The bolt holes for the rails in the manifold are NOTORIOUS for cracking and splitting down the side. This is a bigger problem though as the fuel rail pressure sensor needs to be VERY secure and uses the left front fuel rail bolt to hold it down as well. While you have the manifold off, TAKE OUT THE FOAM THAT IS UNDER THE MANIFOLD. Again, it is just for sound abatement and does nothing but hold moisture and cause the manifold to rot from the bottom up. Great Black Series btw, it is a world class car.
Hey thanks for this you inspired me to do it on it m273. I didn’t realize this was such an issue but even when you put brand new pvc components it still allows oil into the intake. I was wondering if the oil catch can generates any heat because my location (while very stealth) is slightly touching one of my headlight bulb cover caps. If I need to change bulbs it’s just two screws and moving the catch can up so my only concern is it getting hot and melting things it touches. Also I was wondering if there is an issue with the rubber hose touching the heat shield or can it withstand that heat?
@@skrrtgarage3922 thanks I actually found the exact bracket in my garage so I was able to extend it out a bit. But I was wondering if it is ok if the hose touches any part of the engine head? I assume rubber hose can handle much more than an engine generates but wanted to be sure. I’m not sure how but my w207 engine bay is even more cramped than yours.
You didn't have to disconnect the PCV from the crankcase, correct? Looks like it's only disconnected from back of the manifold, then adding the aftermarket parts yeah? Looks like you never used those O-rings either?
Where can I get the complete set like you installed it in your C63?? In your link I can't find this small bracket where the connection is screwed to the motor
Is the black MB star on your engine cover factory or aftermarket? If the latter, can you share the source? A dealership broke mine off, never said anything about it and by the time I realized it, it was a couple months later. I’d really like to find just the emblem to replace, without buying $100 new cover. Thanks!
Smart.. if you have the tumble intake (nevermind, you have it) the Mercedes uses. A catch can is what will save you headaches and $$ in the long run. Heard the tumble intake starts to dry from oil clogg around 100k miles.
My m16has almost 150k miles and runs absolutely fine. Catch cans are a gimmick imo. A bit of oil in an intake is completely fine, it's not going to hurt anything and why you will see oil in many engines intakes that are completely healthy.
I've changed my pcv like 3 times a year on my e550 benz (m273 engine) and am getting ready to do this but I was wondering what symptoms would you have if oil is going into the engine. I have a sort of choppy idle it feels as if there are misfires but I have no codes or rpm movement. Was wondering how much length of hose you ended up using.
Noticing that you have included links for the precision works or PLM fittings kit. As you are promoting their products I'm hoping that maybe you have a discount code. While this item is an "on sale price" it's still a lot of money for a handful of fittings with no hose no clamps or anything...$80
Finally got around to this. I couldn't get the plm fitting into the manifold. Also didnt use thread tape. Now ive got a high squeal at idle. Any idea if its the fitting to manifold or the connections?
Nice video, planning to do this when I change my injectors. Also just asking, do your car makes a small rattle noise when start the engine? My car’s adjusters have been replaced but seems the rattle noise isn’t completely gone. Just wondering is this normal to those engines.
@@skrrtgarage3922 thanks for putting this together man I’m lazy and was very close to spending $600 on weistec can that nobody will ever see lol. Why VRP doesn’t use fittings like this I have no idea, their kit just looks bad with those brass fittings.
Not required and adds reliability risks of its own (such as freezing if you drive in cold climates - ask me how I know). Your car won't break if you don't have a catch can.
You should not be putting teflon tape onto AN fittings! They have their own beveled sealing surfaces that mate and seal under tightening pressure. The other important big error people make is on any type of boosted cars (turbo/supercharger). By not putting a one way "check valve" inline between the catch can and intake maniold. Without a check valve, Under boost, as you pressurize the intake manifold you will also unneccesarily be pressurizing your catch can. And much worse you will be sending boost pressure down into your large crank case housing filling it up with wasted boost pressure which could cause your crankshaft front and rear seals to leak oil. 😬😵 Driving under vacuum your fine but as soon as you get into boost your attempting to force the air flow backwards into crank case. Its called reversion. Plus this adds allot to boost lag. Boost delay. Air is like a sponge and takes time to compress. Youd be trying to compress all the air in the catch can and crank case before it finally pressurizes the intake manifold. A one way check valve on a carch can solves this issue. Again, thats only for boosted engines.
There is absolutely nothing wrong with having that amount of oil in an intake. Catch cans are pretty much useless unless the PCV is faulty. Kind of up there with putting a CAI on a newer car that already has a decently designed intake.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
I've been waiting so long for someone to make a detailed catch can video. Im bookmarking this for my own! Thank you!
Perfect! Thanks for the comment 🙏🏼
Dude.. if you have a Mercedes, better install asap before it gets worse. Your intake system will take you for it and so does your wallet.
@@kito1san Its on the list!
thanks bro! going to use your video to install this can on my 2009 cl63 m156
Got to see the car in person once, crazy to know there's one in the area!
Thanks for the vid
We still need to link up bro, thanks for the comment 👍🏼
Nice DIY video. I have to install mine in the C63 and this makes it look relatively easy to do.
Gorgeous car. Good to learn about the oil catch can.
Do you have a diagram of how the PCV connects to the hoses as it was hard to see the final connection.
thank you for this DIY! how has it been for you long term? how much oil would you say you pull from it at every oil change?
Nice work!
Thanks! 🙏🏼
Great video ❤
Bought the PLM kit too, I was going to install it on my ML63 when I took apart and repaired the intake manifold, but was disappointed by the quality. Even the fittings for the M156 didn't really work well, and seemed to leak vacuum in my case. Glad yours seem to be fine. I myself will be looking for some better options, I think 63motorsports has all around the best package on the market but its still pretty expensive for a catch can setup
Yea man, I didn’t end up using there can/hoses. But I did use their fittings, so far everything seems to be holding up nicely. I’ll make a video in the future to see how much it picks up. And yea, anything over a couple hundred seems excessive for a simple catch can.
Hey Sam, what were your symptoms with the PLM fittings? Just installed them and now seems like a have a Vac leak. High pitch squeal at idle and when I shut the car off a whooshing noise like pressure release.
@@OGYELLOW Honestly they just fit poorly or didnt fit at all in my case, id guess in your case theres leaking o ring or one of the fittings is just not secured well. And its probably the fault of the fittings, not you!
Where does in and out go to?
Hey I found everything but the fitting. Any idea where I can find 1?
Im about to do this! Great 👍
Right on, thanks for the comment 👍🏼
Did you buy the 63 Motorsports catch can kit?
How will i know when its full or when to replace it?
I believe it depends how you drive the car. If you are doing track days vs daily driving. At least once an oil change
Is the lobe shaped piece from the PLM kit (you inserted the screw at 11:20) supposed to come threaded or do you have to tap it?
It’s threaded 👍🏼
please dont use teflon tape on AN fittings...They are a flare style connection and their seal is achieved by compressing their opposing cones against each other, NOT THE THREADS. Using teflon tape on AN or flare fittings will almost always ensure that you have a leak. Taping the pipe thread side of the can fittings is correct.
For cutting the hoses, use painters tape to wrap where you want to cut and use a cut off wheel or dremel to cut the hose....cut will be cleaner but also when you have hose with mesh weave covering it will keep everything nice and neat and stop the fraying.
Foam under the filter boxes.....TAKE THEM OUT AND LEAVE THEM OUT!!!! Our manifolds are a cast magnesium and are notorious for becoming corroded and developing leaks that will drive you insane. The foam does absolutely nothing other than sound abatement but they hold moisture and drastically increase the corrosion rate.
When doing this you really should plan to change the PCV out for a new one at the same time as they DO go bad, but more often they short convoluted hose dry rots, becomes brittle and just falls apart. And yes, you DO have to remove the intake to change the PCV but it is NOT a bad job at all. Just take your time with all of the electrical connections and disconnect the fuel line so you can get the intake completely out. Do NOT unbolt the fuel rail from the manifold trying to keep from disconnecting the fuel line....The bolt holes for the rails in the manifold are NOTORIOUS for cracking and splitting down the side. This is a bigger problem though as the fuel rail pressure sensor needs to be VERY secure and uses the left front fuel rail bolt to hold it down as well. While you have the manifold off, TAKE OUT THE FOAM THAT IS UNDER THE MANIFOLD. Again, it is just for sound abatement and does nothing but hold moisture and cause the manifold to rot from the bottom up.
Great Black Series btw, it is a world class car.
Thank you for the advice! This should be stickied for others
Great video! Beautiful car. It will always be one of my favourite cars! Enjoy the reduced oil ingestion lol
Thanks brother! How are you man? How is the baby?
@@skrrtgarage3922 excellent! Fam is great. Family and work has consumed all my spare time. Videos coming soon! Lots of updates
That makes me happy to hear! Can’t wait to see what’s coming 👀
Hey thanks for this you inspired me to do it on it m273. I didn’t realize this was such an issue but even when you put brand new pvc components it still allows oil into the intake. I was wondering if the oil catch can generates any heat because my location (while very stealth) is slightly touching one of my headlight bulb cover caps. If I need to change bulbs it’s just two screws and moving the catch can up so my only concern is it getting hot and melting things it touches. Also I was wondering if there is an issue with the rubber hose touching the heat shield or can it withstand that heat?
No it should be an issue 👍🏼
@@skrrtgarage3922 thanks I actually found the exact bracket in my garage so I was able to extend it out a bit. But I was wondering if it is ok if the hose touches any part of the engine head? I assume rubber hose can handle much more than an engine generates but wanted to be sure. I’m not sure how but my w207 engine bay is even more cramped than yours.
good!
You didn't have to disconnect the PCV from the crankcase, correct?
Looks like it's only disconnected from back of the manifold, then adding the aftermarket parts yeah?
Looks like you never used those O-rings either?
Thanks for the video, will you make a followup video after you had it installed for a while ?
Yea, after a few hundred miles I’ll make a video 👍🏼. Only problem is I don’t drive it a lot 😬
@@skrrtgarage3922 why dont you drive it that much?
Where can I get the complete set like you installed it in your C63?? In your link I can't find this small bracket where the connection is screwed to the motor
Looks like you eliminated the stock PCV and used the New System/Fittings that you Bought?
Hey great video, question the hose link says 12 AN size even tho fittings are 10 AN, is that correct?
Is the black MB star on your engine cover factory or aftermarket? If the latter, can you share the source? A dealership broke mine off, never said anything about it and by the time I realized it, it was a couple months later. I’d really like to find just the emblem to replace, without buying $100 new cover. Thanks!
do you recall what size bolt was holding the PCV valve onto the block?
It was a small torx. I think a T30, but have a 25-35 handy just incase 😂
Smart.. if you have the tumble intake (nevermind, you have it) the Mercedes uses. A catch can is what will save you headaches and $$ in the long run. Heard the tumble intake starts to dry from oil clogg around 100k miles.
My m16has almost 150k miles and runs absolutely fine. Catch cans are a gimmick imo. A bit of oil in an intake is completely fine, it's not going to hurt anything and why you will see oil in many engines intakes that are completely healthy.
U might wanna remove that bronze filter inside the catch can cause it will increase the pressure and might direct it back to the engine
I've changed my pcv like 3 times a year on my e550 benz (m273 engine) and am getting ready to do this but I was wondering what symptoms would you have if oil is going into the engine. I have a sort of choppy idle it feels as if there are misfires but I have no codes or rpm movement. Was wondering how much length of hose you ended up using.
Noticing that you have included links for the precision works or PLM fittings kit. As you are promoting their products I'm hoping that maybe you have a discount code. While this item is an "on sale price" it's still a lot of money for a handful of fittings with no hose no clamps or anything...$80
With the PLM kit no need to remove the bottom pcv portion from crank case?
Yea, it gets attached to the OEM one
Awesome man thanks
Finally got around to this. I couldn't get the plm fitting into the manifold. Also didnt use thread tape. Now ive got a high squeal at idle. Any idea if its the fitting to manifold or the connections?
i need a 5 liter catch can because i loose 1 liter in 100 KM i have same engine. and i have a huge vaccuum in engine, no pressure. iam confused
Nice video, planning to do this when I change my injectors. Also just asking, do your car makes a small rattle noise when start the engine? My car’s adjusters have been replaced but seems the rattle noise isn’t completely gone. Just wondering is this normal to those engines.
The engine is a little noisy, but it shouldn’t make any rattle or large vibrations
hi! can you tell me the dimensions of the fittings?
10an
Great Video super job ... what was your mileage on the car when you installed the oil catch can
The car has 18k miles now 👍🏼💪🏼
You used the 10AN fittings and hose correct? When I hit the links for some reason it defaulted to 4AN hose and 3AN fittings.
Dang, that’s bizarre. Yea, they are all 10AN
@@skrrtgarage3922 thanks for putting this together man I’m lazy and was very close to spending $600 on weistec can that nobody will ever see lol. Why VRP doesn’t use fittings like this I have no idea, their kit just looks bad with those brass fittings.
Could not agree more. I was shocked no one had anything better out to market.
@@skrrtgarage3922 I’m seeing options of 10AN to M18, M20, and M22. Which is correct?
10an
I assume you had gotten a vrp kit lol
Lol it was the “private label manufacturer” full kit.. it wasn’t ideal at all
Do you still have the AMG and ISF?
Yep! And a little 190E Cossie
@@skrrtgarage3922 how many miles does the ISF have
130k
Does the catch can eliminate the PCV valve?
No, it incorporates the OEM PCV
Not required and adds reliability risks of its own (such as freezing if you drive in cold climates - ask me how I know).
Your car won't break if you don't have a catch can.
You should not be putting teflon tape onto AN fittings! They have their own beveled sealing surfaces that mate and seal under tightening pressure. The other important big error people make is on any type of boosted cars (turbo/supercharger). By not putting a one way "check valve" inline between the catch can and intake maniold. Without a check valve, Under boost, as you pressurize the intake manifold you will also unneccesarily be pressurizing your catch can. And much worse you will be sending boost pressure down into your large crank case housing filling it up with wasted boost pressure which could cause your crankshaft front and rear seals to leak oil. 😬😵 Driving under vacuum your fine but as soon as you get into boost your attempting to force the air flow backwards into crank case. Its called reversion. Plus this adds allot to boost lag. Boost delay. Air is like a sponge and takes time to compress. Youd be trying to compress all the air in the catch can and crank case before it finally pressurizes the intake manifold.
A one way check valve on a carch can solves this issue.
Again, thats only for boosted engines.
Port injected 🤐
Yea.. I didn’t realize I said that until after I had filmed it all haha
@@skrrtgarage3922 Which means it doesn't run the risk of gumming up from oil..
Besides drilling holes🫣 you should always give it some rust protection before moving on.
There is absolutely nothing wrong with having that amount of oil in an intake. Catch cans are pretty much useless unless the PCV is faulty. Kind of up there with putting a CAI on a newer car that already has a decently designed intake.
No thank you. I'm not going to out engineer AMG in my garage with swimming pool parts.