As a client I would not accept either of those finishes but I have seen people who have...until... I came along and sprayed the door and drawer fronts and foam brushed and rolled the boxes. I had 30 years in the finishing business. Spraying is the fastest and best finish. Time is money. The best paint in the business was called Muralo. A water based hydrophobic, very interesting chemistry. They were bought out some years ago by California Paints and now the distribution is difficult. It's expensive but worth it. For any water based paint you should add a little Floetrol to improve the self leveling and air bubbles. If you do that you will get much improved results with your system. Lastly, light sand your first coat of primer with 220 & 320 and every subsequent coat except final with 320. Wipe the sanding dust absolutely clean before moving on. Best of luck!
When painting cabinets with that original finish can you get away with scuff Sanding it and Primer or do you need to really get that protective clear fully removed?
@@chrispignotti9817 As long as the clear coat still maintains good adhesion to the wood it is fine to just thoroughly clean, sand and prime 1-2 coats before paint. If there is disadhesion, checking or flaking you need to address that. You may be able to lock it down successfully or you may need to remove the affected areas and rebuild those up to level. Don't cheat the process...it will bite you in the ass. Prep work is everything!
That's awesome. I'd suggest not using so much paint so that it's not trying to flatten all that paint. I got bubbles and texture when I had too much paint. I did my bathroom cabinets and my finish is completely smooth. I wish I could show you a picture. Not one ounce of texture. I used the brush in the corners and then foam rolled it. They look professionally sprayed.
I’ve painted tons of kitchen cabinets with the advance… I have always brushed it on and rolled it off, but I use velour rollers as recommended by Benjamin Moore… less texture. Advance is also a self leveling paint, so if you use too much it can sag and/or pool over time. I have to be careful not to overwork the paint as well because it breaks down what ever magical stuff is in this paint to make it self level. Recommended Dry time before repainting is at least 16 hours, but I always wait 24. I love this paint for cabinets and trim work… only downside is the cost and long dry time.
I agree, the paint’s ability to level can make a great job even from an amateur. I did like her dry roll technique to keep the coats thin but I like to tip with a brush. I’m not a pro but it’s worked for me.
Your comment covers all the most important points about using advance. They'll get the perfect result following those. The amount of paint she used made me anxious to watch it.
Coronado has only a four hour recoat time and is much more affordable. It doesn't have as hard of a finish but its advantages outweigh that factor for me.
Since you have done so many, can you tell me how you handle the doors. Priming has been no problem as I have them propped up on cans to dry, but since the Advance dries so slowly and cures so slowly, how can I safely do the other side without leaving dents on the first side from what ever I use to lay them on? How do you do it? Do I wait days in between making the whole process even longer?
@@carlacoon856 That’s why I try to leave the doors on whenever possible. When I have to remove them, I use the tiny plastic pyramids you can purchase in the paint section.
I've used this paint multiple times for cabinets and furniture. Our Ben Moore store says not to brush more than 3 strokes with this paint. It starts to dry immediately. You would have accomplished zero roller or brush strokes if you had stuck to that rule. Also, try using lighter coats. It's not always best to use so much paint. But the levelers in this paint are world class. The visible strokes were user error, not the paint.
Many years ago I worked for an elderly doctor, managing his properties, including his stately, older residence. He was very particular about every detail, right down to the fringe of the oriental rugs being straight. One thing he was very comfortable with which I found counterintuitive was visible brush marks on all the moulding and doors whenever they were being repainted. I told him a smoother finish would be fairly easy to achieve. He replied that the house had seen several generations of use and it should proudly reflect that. "I don't want anything too slick that looks like it was extruded from a machine last week." LOL That was a few decades ago and I've since noticed that, generally speaking, old money has a certain worn elegance that the exurban McMansions lack. But to each their own.
Hey GB Lim, I so agree with you and the good doctor. A well done brush job with the brush strokes showing and reflecting light just feels better, and not like a factory perfecto spray job. I really think this is true on Front Doors. But everything else also.
My preference is to see that a human did it, rather than a machine. That doesn't mean messy though. I suspect that preference may have to do with my exposure to vintage and antique homes and decor and my age (76).
I have to agree that a more organic look is preferable to a perfect machine paint-sprayed finish, which is similar to the foil wrap, that I can't stand. Call me old-fashioned, but, I appreciate that a home speaks to me about its history, of the wear & tear of a family that truly lived in their home.
As long as it is done neatly brushing shows character, craftsmanship, and artistry. That is a touch of class. To me, if a finish it too "perfect" it looks artificial.
I'd go brush n dry roll for a finish that glossy if you're not gonna spray. I've done many kitchens, baths and furniture pieces and for at least the last 12 years I've always used kilz2 as my primer. I just really like the bond and coverage. I want to try the Stix though to see how they compare. I absolutely hate the valspar cabinet enamel! My go to has been Sherwin Williams cashmere low luster for many years. I brush then dry roll but add 10%floetrol to the final coat. The durability is stunning.
Great video as always. The one thing I would add is if you are using colour paint. You can add a colour tint to your primer to match your paint. So if you chip the paint the primer will not show up as white. Very good video. Thanks for sharing
Great video. A lot of my clients and I prefer brush strokes to roller marks as it has more of a historical feel so usually do a brush finish. Also, it is way easier to touch up so I generally recommend to my clients a brush finish unless it is going to save a lot of time by spraying.
Foam rollers I fond gives bubbles but micro fibre gives much better result, no bubbles. And a hint I use is to dampen the roller to “prime” it. It stopes the roller from soaking up too much paint when you start. I also sand lightly between coats and sanding after primer not always necessary but definitely between paint coats, I finish with a 400 or higher grit on last coat for a baby bottom smooth finish.
When do you sand between coats? Obviously not when it's still tacky but an hour or two or is it dependent on the paint? I know some take a month to cure
@@lukas______ I sand between coats with advance paint after the sixteen hour levelling period wipe down and remove all dust, then add next coat. If I’m using a mineral paint then all I need is a 4 hour dry time before sanding. Full cure time for any latex paint I have used is 28 - 30 days. But I have seen longer.
@nancyhicks98, do you sand lightly with a fine grit sandpaper prior to the final coat, or sand after the final coat cures? Also, if you are using BM advance for furniture, do you top coat at all for added durability? When not using BM Advance, what is your go-to for painting cabinets and furniture? Thank you (if you see this and can comment) .
Out of these 2 finishes I think the rolled one does look better. But the brush one does not look bad! But really I am a sucker for a sprayed finish, it just looks so smooth! When I painted some cabinets for our school room I ended up buying a used graco airless sprayer. I seriously love the finish! Like obsessively love love love it! So worth it to me to do it that way. It was easy for me to learn to use it. The cabinets were my first time ever using an airless sprayer, and it seriously looks like a professional factory finish.
I used primer and Advance from BM and the roller they recommended. Cleaned with krud kutter, scuff sanded, and sanded between every coat except the last. I only used a good Purdy brush in crevices and the boxes then rolled over. I let each coat dry for at least 24hrs. They turned out very smooth with no bubbles or brush marks. I was super pleased with the self leveling of the Advance paint.
Yup same here I have tried every method for me super smooth brush works best if not spraying as it levels out where foam or micro fiber roller leave that rough texture. You used too much paint when brushing and did not use a smooth enough brush, if you did these two it would have come out much better! I know not anyone can but spraying is way to go just sprayed a bathroom vanity and wow just wow!
We love Advance! It levels so well, it’s very durable, and there’s no topcoat needed or recommended. The only thing I would point out is that the label says to wait 16 hours between coats.
I’ve just finished painting all my kitchen doors/drawers using Advance. I sprayed them though with a Wagner 590 sprayer. I added Floetrol and a bit of water to thin it out and allow for a bit more self leveling action. I also de-greased using a degreaser (dish soap is not enough!) , then buff sanded and sanded in between primer and all 4 coats of Advance. Thin coats are always the manufacturer’s preferred method, and let them sit for a full 16-24 hrs between another sanding/painting round. Then a full 5-7 days to CURE. You really shouldn’t re-attach them to the boxes until they’ve cured or u run the risk of chipping and denting and messing up all your hard work. This is not a job to rush! I’m painting over cabinets that I did 12 years ago with a brush and roller and I have to say, there is no comparison to spraying (plus sanding well between coats). My cabinets now look high end factory finish and not at all “DIY”. It’s a LOT of work and tests your patience, but if done right, you will have a project you can be proud of and one that will hold up for a decade and more.
@@cynthias2335 no, sorry. My rambling made it unclear. I stated I was SPRAYING over an older version that I had previously used brush and roller. There’s no comparison to spraying, which gives a factory finish if done right and with patience. I just hung them all back up and they look amazing, in a kitchen with a lot of direct sunlight.
Surprisingly, I always thought I was the only one who brushed then rolled until I found you. I’ve been doing this technique for several years and I find it’s the best as well. I’m excited for you moving into painting kitchens. I started painting kitchens in 2020 and this past year my business just exploded with kitchens. It’s a definite comfort zone for our revenue streams. I schedule one kitchen a month and this allows me to work on furniture for my clients also. Best of luck to you. I thoroughly enjoy your videos. Keep up the great work. 😊
@@rampitup12 There are several brushes on the market that work really well. Purdy or Zinsser, to name a few. But I really like Ace Hardwares own brand. I typically buy the 2 1/2 inch brush with the short handle for painting the larger surfaces. I use a small decorative brush on the edges of doors and drawers.
I will have to check out that primer. I refinished our kitchen cabinets. Cleaned with Krud Kutter, sanded, BIN Shellac primer, then applied Ben Moore Advance. Brushed on rolled off method with a foam roller. The finish was beautiful and it’s been super durable.
@@seriejohnson698 They didn’t leave lasting bubbles for me. I suppose you could use a microfiber roller. The foam was not as perfect as a spray on finish but it was great for us.
wash the foam roller with hot water to soften it then dry it out completely by squeezing out the water and using a paper towel it will get rid of the bubbles . Or use a Micro fibre roller to get a really smooth finish.
When painting boats with topside paint, you use the foam roller and “tip” with a dry brush, lightly dragging it across to pop the bubbles and smooth it out. When done properly it is almost as smooth as a sprayed finish.
Congrats on growing your business! A word of warning on kitchen cabinets -- they will be covered with years of greasy, grimy dirt. So be prepared to do some serious cleaning prepwork.
We have a old house 1930s..we like seeing the light brush strokes! Sprayed finish looks like plastic to me. As they say...different strokes fr different folks! Good video!
I painted my cabinets and used a little Sunnyside M-1 Latex Paint Additive & Extender and got a super smooth finish. Started rolling off with the foam roller and then switched to a roller for smooth surfaces. If I were to do it again, I would use your idea of mixing the polycrylic into the top coat because the hardest part was adding the polycrylic at the end. By the way, thanks for that idea. I painted 2 bathroom vanities using 1/2 poly, 1/2 paint and a splash of the m-1 and got a perfect finish.Good luck with your cabinet adventures.
@@rt3box6tx74 How much flotrol and do you add it to each coat? Then do you spray or brush/roll? Does it extend dry time? Do you also add poly to the last coat or do it as a separate coat? I'm 76 and do NOT want a do-over 😁 Thanks.
@@judymiller5154 Quantity of Flotrol depends on thickness of original paint. Flotrol for oil base paint is different than the one for latex paints. Latex paints that are showing brush strokes can be thinned with water but I avoid using water even with latex paint. To determine if you need Flotrol you'll need to paint the surface in an inconspicuous spot like beside a fridge, and give it 15 or 20 minutes to self-level. Companies are advertising "self leveling" paint, but I've no experience with those products yet. For oil base paint start with well mixed paint on your primed and lightly sanded surface. For sanding a primer coat I'd recommend 400 grit sandpaper to get rid of microscopic burrs that can only be felt by running your hand over the surface. Dust off the fine particles with a slightly dampened, lint free paper towel. Make notes on the amount of flowtrol you add. For a big job I'd start by pouring 2 cups of paint into my work container, adding 1 Tablespoon of Flowtrol and stirring very well. 2 cups of paint lasts about as long as anyone wants to work between breaks. Keep all paint cans and work containers closed /covered when not in use. Plastic shrink wrap and aluminum foil are handy for this. I use Purdy natural bristle brushes, but they also make a good brush that's natural boar bristle mixed with poly bristles. Any high-end brush with feathered or tapered-end bristles will work. The better the brush the more professional the job looks. If you're painting cabinet doors try to lay them flat on a horizontal surface if you have room. I've used sheets of plywood on top of saw horses for big jobs but these days plywood is too expensive to buy just for one painting session. Masonite or heavy cardboard like refrigerators and freezers are shipped in can substitute as a surface for a painting table. Once you begin painting you don't want to be moving cabinet doors around much. If you can find them get some little round plastic surface elevators that will lift your cabinet doors off the table surface a bit. Paint stores will be familiar with that product. I've used all kinds of objects as substitutes. Wood dowells, even sardine cans. Even though the paint feels dry to touch it can still be soft and easily skinned... like skinning your knee. That's another reason to paint the backs of doors or insides ofndrawers first. Retouching a few paint dings on backs of doors isn't nearly as stressful as trying to blend in a ding on door fronts. Flotrol may hasten drying time slightly, but hurrying the process isn't recommended. If you're in a big rush hire a pro. If you're going to paint door insides paint those first to get a feel for how the paint will flow out. After you see the results on the backs of doors you may want to add more Flotrol, or decide to use less. I never expect the first coat to cover perfectly. There may be a variation in paint transparency or oopaqueness after the first coat. It's normal. Use your little fine textured foam roller and tray to apply the paint to the surface quickly, then add a bit of paint to your brush to smooth out paint around the edges first, then do the middle with long graceful strokes down the whole length of the wood grain. Line your little roller tray with aluminum foil so you can start fresh each painting session. Paint should be rolled onto each door and layed off with your brush one by one, as quickly as you can manage. Wrap your foam roller and paint brush tightly in a shopping bag making total surface contact with the plastic to keep them wet between uses. If using oil based paint, tools that sit wrapped up for over 2 days will need to be cleaned or replaced. For latex paint the time between cleanings is shorter because their surface skins over more quickly, leading to globs on the surface of brushes and rollers. On previously dark stained surfaces I expect to sand lightly to break sheen of clear coat, prime and apply at least 2 coats of paint. On previously painted surfaces that are in good shape I skip the primer and usually do 2 or 3 coats of paint. If you can keep dust down in the paint room you can skip sanding with 400 grit between coats. You'll see and feel whether sanding between coats is necessary. I do my sanding in a separate room or in a garage, so as not to contaminate the paint room. I find clear coats usually discolor over time, so I tend to avoid them. The exception is Delft brand non-yellowing clear coat. I used it on some knotty pine paneling I sanded down to bare wood and stained off-white. 25 yrs later there's no discernable yellowing in a kitchen/family room combo. Preparation is the key to having success or having a mediocre outcome. Some people don't notice the difference. I hope your project turns out beautiful Judy.
I used this paint for my kitchen almost 10 years ago. I'm seeing it needs a touch up now, but has really worn well. After priming, I brush the paint in the crevices, then roll paint on the flats with a short nap 4" roller, then smooth out all of it with a quality 2" brush (cross hatching). It's a beautiful finish. I find that if I roll as a final finish, it looks like it. A brushed finish is self leveling with this paint & looks great.
That is what I do too! When I was watching this and reading the comments, I started to wonder if I was crazy. I find the roller puts on the right amount of paint and the brush smooths out the bubbles/bumps.
I did mine about 3 years ago and I was not impressed with the durability. Went on well, looked nice when new, but didn't stand up to use on the cabinet doors.
Spray them. I taught myself to use a sprayer and I never looked back. There is a learning curve and with sprayers you get what you pay for. I bought a Fuji mini-mite 5. There is no comparison with a sprayed finish and a painted finish. I can always tell the difference between hand application and a sprayer. There are always tell tale signs. Now that I know what a sprayed finish looks like, I would never ever paint my kitchen cabinets by hand. The exception would be poly top coat if I used one. That will level perfectly with the right technique. I spray primer too. I absolutely love my sprayer. I can see my face in the finish.
I am blessed to say I have been painting for 20 years and tried about every combination.for spraying rolling and brushing. My go to for bare wood is the insul x and they also make a great eurathane cabinet paint. Super hard and tuff. I stand by spraying for a glass finish. Make sure I’m using a new tip and just take my time. If I rush a painting job I get a rushed look. Only another painter can tell what part was rushed or gloomed over, but I will know I did it and I don’t like doing it at any cost.
For a DIY these finishes are completely acceptable. If your contracting work from the public then it’s a risky to try and bring some kitchen cabinets doors back without having a spray finish. The sprayed finish is expected by the consumer. I personally would not even complicate the estimate by offer the difference between spray, brush or roll. With that being addressed you are still right to practice the brush and roll techniques. Open grain wood species will always need to have the primer rolled or brushed in the fill the grain properly. I prefer to use BIN shellac primer because it will fill the grain better, it blocks tannin stains the best and it dries fast with excellent sanding. Sets of closed grain cabinets are only suitable to be sprayed from start to finish but the water base primers are acceptable for easier cleanup and less fumes
I am currently painting an entire bedroom set: headboard, chest, dresser with mirror and a nightstand. I had never painted furniture before but did watch tons of videos and husband has painter friend that gave a few suggestions. One was to use the Advanced Benjamin Moore paint! Due to some of the rounded edges, grooves, etc. I actually have been brushing and rolling on the flat surfaces. I am a bit of a perfectionist and have been taking my time. Only have one set of drawers left to do and I must say, my finish looks really good. I do like the roller look on the flat panels.
Liquid sandpaper is the trick. I’ve used it over oil base paint and then applied latex it is still looking great 15 years later. I always clean, lightly sand and use liquid sand. You are on the right track young lady. ❤
2:12 worn down 220 grit sandpaper does not sand like 400 grit sandpaper. You're likely conflating the speed of material removal with the size of the abrasive scratching the surface to remove the material. Yes, a worn out 220 grit will remove less material than a fresh piece of paper of the same grit, and yes, a fresh 400 grit sand paper pad will remove material slower than a fresh 220 grit, but they do not leave the surface with the same finish. The large size abrasives on a 220 grit pad will leave the surface more rough and less smooth than the much finer grit abrasives on a 400 grit piece of sand paper. This might not matter as much for your application of rolling or brushing paint, but it will matter to someone who takes that advice and tries to apply it to another job where a 400 grit surface smoothness is desired.
I always spray fronts of cabinets and roll the shell of cabinets with the roller you used. I definitely wouldn’t brush on without rolling out the brush marks!! It just looks more professional with sprayer or rolled
I am a kitchen / bathroom remodeler and I've tried these methods (and a few more) over the years, and it comes down to, drum roll please, Yep, spraying is the only way to get a factory finish. Also, you might try "Command" by Ben Moore. It normally doesn't sit out on the shelf so you have to ask for it. It's like Advance - smooth finish, durable - but dries in 1 hour, cures in 24.
The 16 hour dry time for new coat is completely necessary. Cure time is 30 days for it to harder. The first time I did my bathroom cabinets with advance...i still topcoated it. I didn't k ow about the 39 day cure time. I did my daughter's bathroom cabinets with advance and am waiting the full 30 days to check the finish. I still may topcoat. It looks more professional and adds to durability. I did an entire kitchen with bear cabinet paint and added some flow leveler to it. It was still workable but didn't have the 16 hour drive time. I do the brush then roll to bit I like the flocked roller better than the high density foam roller.. I disagree that it os durable after only 4 hours. There is a reason it takes 40 days to cure.
Both look great. A concern for client homes (and your profit) is the recoat time frame both with primer and paint. Shellac primer can recoat in an hour or two. I like General Finishes because you can paint 2nd coat in just a few hours, although full cure time takes up to 30 days which requires client to be more careful. I made little felt rectangles cut with X's cut to go over door hardware to protect finish. Plus no topcoat required. It's super durable also. Not sure what dry/cure time is on Advance Paint.
I have used that Advance Paint many times. I also use the same primer. Love them both! I only do one coat of primer and two top coats. I use a 4 inch 10 mm micro fibre roller and brush with both products. Because the paint is self levelling, it dries smooth and slick. Almost as smooth as a sprayed finish! The only drawback with the paint is the fact that there is a 16 hour wait between first and second coat.
I would like to see a spray painted one too. They look good. Mine were brushed and rolled and I am not happy with how they look up close. I did not do them myself.
Presently BM Advance is hands down the best out ! Before Advance was developed I was using BM oil Impervo. It was really a fantastic paint BUT the oil contains very potent fumes which is a hard sell to customers but When cured was the hardest coating you could find and was indestructible! Since Advance came out it’s all I use! Honestly after 30 days of curing it’s too is very protective. Also unlike its oil counterpart flows out and self leveling with no additives! You did a wonderful job on those panels! FYI, some panels are actually two separate panels and the crack where they meet must be chalked because if you don’t months down the road the paint will crack from slamming the cupboard doors . Let chalk dry before priming!
Thanks for this tip. I am not a painter but considering painting my cabinets and so doing research. What do you mean by the cabinets “must be chalked” if they are 2 separate panels? What is chalk? Thank you!
@@safiyyahokoye2832 I think the person is meaning caulk and its not a good practice to caulk where the raised panels fit into the stiles of the doors as this will prevent them from floating which is done for expanding and contracting as wood does throughout the seasons. This is just my opinion and im just a human being but do have experience in woodworking
I am a master painter. Awesome technique and skills. Love your videos and enjoy the different finishes you do. I do high end kitchens and don't us BM Advanced. Not saying it is bad paint. But...has some major draw backs. The recoat time is 16 hours. Yes you heard me, to rush it in a kitchen will have this stuff flake off years earlier. Next is finish, it looks and feels plasticity. When held next to pre-cat Lacquer or Centurion. Again no disrespect. Customer doesn't care about the feel or look and you have time Advanced will never let you down
Been painting 30 years, furniture, walls, basically anything that doesn’t move, but only did cabinets a couple times. Afraid to try Advance cause it’s an animal I don’t know. My method sand, prime with Bin, then two coats of good Behr Latex. 24 hours later followed by two coats of Varathane Ultimate Polyurethane. Using latex and sanding in between, I get a glass finished you would swear was sprayed on. I have sprayed furniture as well, but for me, I like the perfection I get with the up close and personal finish I achieve with a brush.
@@carlacoon856 It is an awesome paint, apply it thin though and of course don't overwork it. Be super patient, I have actually put on a different BM as 1st top coat then finished with BM. As it is pretty much impervious to everythjng
@@snowthugs Thanks so much for responding. I'm using it now on cabinet doors. I used it on the frame and the drawers. It definitely acts different from what I am use to. The most frustrating part for me has been trying to go back over a spot even a minute later. It seems to mess up the paint. I wasn't sure if I was going to thick or thin. So I'll try thinner on tomorrows doors. I've also tried a Wooster Silvertip which was great on the drawers, but after washup, I did not follow with a mineral spirit rinse as other painters have suggested and sure enough that brush acted messy on the doors after it had dried, so I switched to a Zebra and it was okay. I wonder if the oil molecules in the paint need that extra rinse? I'm also afraid of doing the reverse side of the doors, as I've been drying them raised up on paint cans. Won't the cans make an indent in the uncured but dry paint on the back of the door, while I'm painting and drying the tops? Not sure how others handle this part. With latex they are dry in a day so able to paint both sides and stand them up to dry but I'm afraid the Advance will stick.
@@carlacoon856 Doors are tricky especially with BM Advanced. I haven't had luck painting then vertically as by the time you make it all the way around using a brush and roller you have to cut in the end where you started or you mess up the paint as it will pull it up if a roller hits it. Now I use Stak Racks for doors, still need to flip the doors over after 10 minutes. Or just let one side dry overnight if you got time and flip over and do other side next morning. Nobody will see the touch up marks at the top and bottom edges. Or for the paint can method just order shinny silicon place mats, then cut into pieces and put over the paint cans. Paint doesn't really stick to silicon and adds padding to the paint can.
Pro tip...use a regular napp instead of the brush...lay a heavy coat, then go over with the foam roller...I never dip the foam roller...the key is to never allow the material to dry...in other words the whole piece must be foam rolled as one with all areas wet...the regular napp will allow you to achieve this faster before knocking it down with foam roller
Awesome...A year ago, I used that primer when I painted my bathroom tiles (in the shower area) It has held up great NOT one chip or flakes at all ...the paint I used was a Behr Oil based enamel ,and then a oil based top coat...I didn't use that shower for about 2months and I am so glad it turned out so good...I did the brush and roller method..
When you say "dry roll" do you mean you wipe off the roller between each door or get a new one or that you just do not dip it into paint? How many doors would you use a single roller on before replacing it for being "wet-ish" ? Thank you. I'm priming my cabinet doors right now!
I painted my daughters 80 year old cabinets after stripping off 5 layers of paint using BIN primer and BM Advance paint using brush and roller method and they look great after 3 years!
You sound like my mom! We'd paint on the weekends, then I would come home after 5 pm & she'd be there, having painted all day! We did every square inch, inside and out! Bless you for helping your daughter, because we are blessed having mothers like you! ❤❤❤
Been Moore products are awesome, but a bit expensive. I've switched to using Break Through from PPG, its a water borne acrylic as well, I've had tremendous success with it on cabinets and trim. Key to it, is not over brushing/rollering it. I achieve sprayed on look by using Wooster's Chinex FTP (best brush EVER!) along with Wooster Pro 3/8" nap Smooth finish or Mohair blend roller covers. Been painting for 30 years and still enjoy it and these product make me look good! Enjoyed the video!
By the way after reading some of the other comments, Break through from PPG can be sanded and recoated in about an hour. I double coat doors and trim same day all the time, depending on humidity, I live in Ohio so I cant control that, LOL.
Ben Moore advance has a primer for that paint advance primer I’ve use both and like the primer that goes with the paint ! I’ve been painting 37 years I’d recommend using the primer for that paint thanks !
I went out and purchased those products based on your video. I’ve been a remodeler for 30 years and I am always looking for good tips and info. I’m thrilled so far with the primer. Working on top coat later today. By the way, I worked Dunwoody, Buckhead, Roswell and Alpharetta for my first 15 years in business. I bet I painted 10 golden oak kitchens in Dunwoody alone. I’m in Missouri now
@@terrio5258 They make a grain filler but I’ve used drywall mud. It sands easy and is easy to apply with a spreader( like in body work). As long as it’s primed properly, it holds up well
I’ve been painting cabinets for years. #1 thing-make sure you have a great contract! I brush and roll the boxes and spray the door and drawer fronts. Good luck-ask if you have questions!
I never thought of that contract thing! Is that like a warranty? I made some mistakes in hiring handymen, a contractor, and a heating and cooling company that took me for a ride, left huge messes, and I had to pay later after they raised the rates triple! I want to take them to court, because of the shoddy work, the lies, taking away my perfectly good appliances that were under warranty and probably selling them! I’m 68, 4’ 9”, single, and disabled, and they saw that and took advantage of me while I was lying down and the money went through the contractor who blamed the heating and cooling, but he did stuff as well that I never wanted done, that he charged me for. He also had a crush on me and came by any time he could to find something to do and I fed him! I could just scream! Hard lesson learned! In two years, I’ve never made up the savings I had that they used up. I can’t even afford to get two teeth o lost from an autoimmune disease!
You might want to try a microfiber roller sleeve and see if it works better. Also, Benjamin Moore makes a better option for cabinetry called "Scuff X". They often display it in the retail stores specifically on cabinet doors to demonstrate how well it sticks and resists scuffing. In my professional experience, "Advance" isn't worth the price. I didn't notice a difference from the other top line products like Regal or Aura for trimwork but I've never used it on cabinets. I used Scuff X at the recommendation of a local Benjamin Moore dealer.
@@blacksheephousetry Insl-X cabinet coat. I’ve used Advance a lot, the last quart I bought was not the same and I’ll not be buying it anymore. You can use Insl-x Cabinet Coat on trim, too.
I do a bunch of these kitchen jobs. I make a spray station in the garage and spray all the doors, cut and roll the cabs. I use TSP to clean, stiX for grab and skuffX for my finish coats for durability.
My daughter just had her kitchen cabinets done white as well. The guy took them outside and sprayed them, but wow he did something horribly wrong bc some feel really fuzzy and look textured, my guess is he didn’t clean or degrease maybe… almost feels like he sanded them and forgot to knock the dust off and sprayed them 🥲 I really like the brush and roll technique you did.
Have you tried Heirloom Traditions paint? It's an All in One paint. A lot of folks use it on cabinets. I have not but have used it on furniture. It's awesome.
I used it on my kitchen cabinets in March of 2020 and they still look amazing! It was my 1st project with the paint and I've used it on tons of things since. Tried a couple others only to be disappointed. It's worth every penny-just always buy it on sale ;-)
I like the foam roller. I just used one to paint a table top and it really helps if you want a smooth texture. I can always see stroked from a brush. LOVE THE FOAM.
Have you tried Floetrol? I use a 16% blend on trim with results that are similar to a sprayed finish . Even cheaper paints give a professional result this way , brushed or rolled .
Great job. The Ben Moore advance is a great self-leveling paint that is forgiving for brush and roller marks. A couple of things that come to mind, which brush did you use, and have you tried rollers like purdy white dove? I started out using foam rollers and discovered I was getting roller lines. But in the end, if you sand between coats and use a self-leveling paint like Advance, you will be in good shape. I like corona brushes. Also, try doing longer strokes on the brush.
As a follow up, I completed my project and I'm VERY happy with it so far. I'm really glad that I rolled and brushed the cabinets saving all the prep work of masking and draping and dust from spraying inside the house. The doors and drawer fronts were sprayed in the garage with several fans pointed out and the finish looks great. The real test will be how they hold up to real world use over time.
BM Command is an incredible product too. It can be applied by brush also. The most impressive quality is that it bonds to surfaces without primer. It sticks to lacquer!!!!!
Thank you for providing us with a comparison video. Great to know this paint passes the scratch test. As someone who has lived through multiple kitchen remodels, cabinets are not a spot you want to see texture, of any kind, whether it be from brush strokes or foam roller. Natural and/or artificial lighting can enhance even the slightest texture. As a customer, this is not something I would personally be happy with. Since you are taking on bigger projects, it might be beneficial for your business to invest in a sprayer!
Love your videos and have learned so much from them. You've gotta try spraying though. I'd recommend a cup spray gun and Air compressor. It does take a little practice but after getting the hang of it you will never want to use anything else. The finish is like nothing else
I don't know how to post picture or link in comments. The felt protector hangs over the knob or pull to protect your fingers from scratching the paint. Cut a rectangle from craft felt that will cover the area where your fingers would scratch the finish around the knobs or pulls (around 2 or 3 inches) Cutting an X pattern in the felt allows you to hang the felt protector onto the knob so your fingers won't touch the paint. It also reminds the owner to be careful with the finish.
I used this same Primer and Advanced paint on an entire kitchen inside and out. You have to remove all the hardware and hinges. Use PSP to clean before the initial sand. I did two full coats of Primer with sanding in between coats and three full coats of Advanced with sanding in between coats. The most important thing to know is to paint all the edges with a high quality brush and follow threw with a high quality two and four in roller and you will see the bubbles but they are self leveling it’s why the Advanced paint is NUMBER ONE 🎉. This is not a rush job by any means. This will take well over a week because you want these coats of paint to properly cure before a sanding and do not dry roll your foam roller as per this video. That’s why it looks like orange peel.
I use the brush and roll on method. I think that way I have more control of the amount of paint I am putting on. Thank you for sharing the testing of the different methods. Very helpful 👌
I want to send this to a friend who in't a painter & who is doing cabinets, but I'm afraid she'll see all that thickly loaded brush in the first part of video & have a less than perfect finish. II don't mean this negatively, but your sound, camera work are better than any I've seen, but you used so much extra paint in your application. Advance will give you a diamond hard, smooth & impeccable finish with a barely loaded brush & roll. Your finish would've looked as smooth as the brown stained finish having done so. Also to anyone spraying advance; it is very thin to spray, so go only with a VERY fine mist or you will have a pooling mess of a disaster on your hands. Use a quality professional sprayer and go THIN. The paint will magically even out.
I was watching the tv show on Magnolia, for love of kitchens featuring the deVol kitchen cabinet company bespoken old English kitchens. On their classic cabinets the standard finish is three top coats, 2 sprayed and final brushed.
I take paper towels or a clean rag, roll the edge enough to take a straight screwdriver and stuff the rolled edge into the crevice (valley part) on top of the paint can and allow the remainder of the towel/rag to drape around the sides of the can. I can still use the inside rim of the can to remove excess paint from my brush or stir stick. At the end of the job or day, I remove and toss the towel/rag. The top and outside of the paint can is clean, and the lid fits better without becoming adhered to the can.
I’ve tried this method but instead of following up with a dry roller brush, I’ve wet and removed excess water to have a slightly damp roller brush. It works beautifully. Hope this helps some of your subscribers. 😊
Outstanding! I live in metro Atlanta GA. If the house I purchase needs cabinets painted i will contact you first. My goal was to do it myself but I recently broke my right shoulder - during a house tour! (Of course I am right handed.) At 73 am v-e-r-y grateful I didn't also break a hip. My Ortho surgeon advised I should not touch a paint brush for at least 6 months. Moving will prove interesting.
Good evening. Excellent video with impeccable production values. - a truly inspiring and heartfelt video and truly motivating. Your home decor and painting skills. are impeccable, and your sense of aesthetics is impressive. This weekend, , don't forget to take some time for yourself. That being said, have a wonderful week - and as always, thanks so much for sharing. 🌹🌹😊😊
that primer and paint combo I love it I used to work at ace hardware. when I used the benjamin advanced I was impressed with the paint the only not so good is the drying time it takes longer
Definitely the brush & dry roll. I can clearly see the brush strokes just using the brush method, not a fan! You did a FABULOUS job. Keep us the good work! 🙋♀️👍🏻
Also your can build a cheap small paint booth with wood framing or PVC and wrap in plastic and use a couple cheap fans I like bathroom fans and I mount to frame or Wagner makes portable booths. I think you're doing good. Great job
Thank you so much for that comment because that is extremely good information I'm going to do that that is to build a little paint booth in my basement
Both finishes are great. I think it depends on the overall “feel” is desired for the finished design as to which technique to choose for any given project.
I used both products on my kitchen cabinets using a velour mini roller using multiple light coats and M-1 extender it looks almost as if it was sprayed also I would suggest the extra step of a water based polyurethane because it will eventually begin to chip from finger nails near the handles.
Been using Ben Moore paint for over 40 years, and wouldn’t use another brand. Advance is great, but pay attention tothe dry time between coats. Ben Moore recommends 16 hours between coats, even though it will feel dry much sooner. Keep in mind that ATL humidity will often make drying takes a bit longer. I agree with an earlier commenter: use a little Floetrol to aid self-leveling. I use 2 caps per gallon. If using the entire can on one project, I add 1 cap when opening the can, and the 2nd capful when the can is half empty. Finally, if you want the best finish, IMHO, there’s no substitute for spraying. If you have a compressor (Ryobi makes a decent, inexpensive one), then get a Harbor Freight HVLP gun (about $30). Once you practice a bit, you’ll see the noticeable difference that spraying makes for doors & drawer fronts.
I do just the opposite, roll it on with the whizz smooth surface roller and then tip it off with a fairly clean but wet with a little thin paint, comes out beautifully on 6 panel doors, looks kinda really smooth and even but can tell it's brushed as well, very natural
Easy to see the brush marks. If you spray well consider spraying. People will complain about the brush marks. I believe this paint dries to quickly as even roller texture is visible.
As a client I would not accept either of those finishes but I have seen people who have...until...
I came along and sprayed the door and drawer fronts and foam brushed and rolled the boxes. I had 30 years in the finishing business. Spraying is the fastest and best finish. Time is money.
The best paint in the business was called Muralo. A water based hydrophobic, very interesting chemistry. They were bought out some years ago by California Paints and now the distribution is difficult. It's expensive but worth it.
For any water based paint you should add a little Floetrol to improve the self leveling and air bubbles. If you do that you will get much improved results with your system.
Lastly, light sand your first coat of primer with 220 & 320 and every subsequent coat except final with 320. Wipe the sanding dust absolutely clean before moving on.
Best of luck!
What sprayer do you recommend? Brush and roll is a time suck
@@rampitup12 a proper fine tip for the spray gun is also important. Good sprayers are expensive if you are only doing it once, so look for rentals
When painting cabinets with that original finish can you get away with scuff Sanding it and Primer or do you need to really get that protective clear fully removed?
Can I find Muralo online?
@@chrispignotti9817 As long as the clear coat still maintains good adhesion to the wood it is fine to just thoroughly clean, sand and prime 1-2 coats before paint. If there is disadhesion, checking or flaking you need to address that. You may be able to lock it down successfully or you may need to remove the affected areas and rebuild those up to level. Don't cheat the process...it will bite you in the ass. Prep work is everything!
Been painting professionally for 15 years. My dad had had a paint company for 40 years. This was enjoyable to watch.
That's awesome. I'd suggest not using so much paint so that it's not trying to flatten all that paint. I got bubbles and texture when I had too much paint. I did my bathroom cabinets and my finish is completely smooth. I wish I could show you a picture. Not one ounce of texture. I used the brush in the corners and then foam rolled it. They look professionally sprayed.
Oh that’s awesome to hear, I’m going to be trying that asap bc that will save me a lot of time! 🖤
Roller. I learned from you and is also now use the brush on, roll off method. Soooo satisfying!!
Hi, great to hear you had a really nice finish on the cabinets. Which paint did you use, and how many coats of paint & primer did you use?
She did two coats of primer and 2 coats of paint
I love the “roller” method! 👍🏼😁
I’ve painted tons of kitchen cabinets with the advance… I have always brushed it on and rolled it off, but I use velour rollers as recommended by Benjamin Moore… less texture. Advance is also a self leveling paint, so if you use too much it can sag and/or pool over time. I have to be careful not to overwork the paint as well because it breaks down what ever magical stuff is in this paint to make it self level. Recommended Dry time before repainting is at least 16 hours, but I always wait 24. I love this paint for cabinets and trim work… only downside is the cost and long dry time.
I agree, the paint’s ability to level can make a great job even from an amateur.
I did like her dry roll technique to keep the coats thin but I like to tip with a brush. I’m not a pro but it’s worked for me.
Your comment covers all the most important points about using advance.
They'll get the perfect result following those.
The amount of paint she used made me anxious to watch it.
Coronado has only a four hour recoat time and is much more affordable. It doesn't have as hard of a finish but its advantages outweigh that factor for me.
Since you have done so many, can you tell me how you handle the doors. Priming has been no problem as I have them propped up on cans to dry, but since the Advance dries so slowly and cures so slowly, how can I safely do the other side without leaving dents on the first side from what ever I use to lay them on? How do you do it? Do I wait days in between making the whole process even longer?
@@carlacoon856 That’s why I try to leave the doors on whenever possible. When I have to remove them, I use the tiny plastic pyramids you can purchase in the paint section.
I've used this paint multiple times for cabinets and furniture.
Our Ben Moore store says not to brush more than 3 strokes with this paint. It starts to dry immediately. You would have accomplished zero roller or brush strokes if you had stuck to that rule.
Also, try using lighter coats. It's not always best to use so much paint.
But the levelers in this paint are world class. The visible strokes were user error, not the paint.
Very interesting and helpful information… thank you for sharing. About to embark on my first ever cabinet redo for my daughter’s apt. 🤞
Many years ago I worked for an elderly doctor, managing his properties, including his stately, older residence.
He was very particular about every detail, right down to the fringe of the oriental rugs being straight. One thing he was very comfortable with which I found counterintuitive was visible brush marks on all the moulding and doors whenever they were being repainted.
I told him a smoother finish would be fairly easy to achieve. He replied that the house had seen several generations of use and it should proudly reflect that.
"I don't want anything too slick that looks like it was extruded from a machine last week." LOL
That was a few decades ago and I've since noticed that, generally speaking, old money has a certain worn elegance that the exurban McMansions lack.
But to each their own.
Hey GB Lim, I so agree with you and the good doctor. A well done brush job with the brush strokes showing and reflecting light just feels better, and not like a factory perfecto spray job. I really think this is true on Front Doors. But everything else also.
Interesting!
My preference is to see that a human did it, rather than a machine. That doesn't mean messy though. I suspect that preference may have to do with my exposure to vintage and antique homes and decor and my age (76).
I have to agree that a more organic look is preferable to a perfect machine paint-sprayed finish, which is similar to the foil wrap, that I can't stand. Call me old-fashioned, but, I appreciate that a home speaks to me about its history, of the wear & tear of a family that truly lived in their home.
As long as it is done neatly brushing shows character, craftsmanship, and artistry. That is a touch of class. To me, if a finish it too "perfect" it looks artificial.
I'd go brush n dry roll for a finish that glossy if you're not gonna spray. I've done many kitchens, baths and furniture pieces and for at least the last 12 years I've always used kilz2 as my primer. I just really like the bond and coverage. I want to try the Stix though to see how they compare. I absolutely hate the valspar cabinet enamel! My go to has been Sherwin Williams cashmere low luster for many years. I brush then dry roll but add 10%floetrol to the final coat. The durability is stunning.
The Stix is expensive too!!! Like 2x price of kilz
Great video as always. The one thing I would add is if you are using colour paint. You can add a colour tint to your primer to match your paint. So if you chip the paint the primer will not show up as white.
Very good video. Thanks for sharing
Great video. A lot of my clients and I prefer brush strokes to roller marks as it has more of a historical feel so usually do a brush finish. Also, it is way easier to touch up so I generally recommend to my clients a brush finish unless it is going to save a lot of time by spraying.
Foam rollers I fond gives bubbles but micro fibre gives much better result, no bubbles. And a hint I use is to dampen the roller to “prime” it. It stopes the roller from soaking up too much paint when you start. I also sand lightly between coats and sanding after primer not always necessary but definitely between paint coats, I finish with a 400 or higher grit on last coat for a baby bottom smooth finish.
When do you sand between coats? Obviously not when it's still tacky but an hour or two or is it dependent on the paint? I know some take a month to cure
@@lukas______ I sand between coats with advance paint after the sixteen hour levelling period wipe down and remove all dust, then add next coat. If I’m using a mineral paint then all I need is a 4 hour dry time before sanding. Full cure time for any latex paint I have used is 28 - 30 days. But I have seen longer.
Would love to achieve a baby bottom smooth finish! Do you dampen with water for water-based paints? Or paint?
@nancyhicks98, do you sand lightly with a fine grit sandpaper prior to the final coat, or sand after the final coat cures? Also, if you are using BM advance for furniture, do you top coat at all for added durability? When not using BM Advance, what is your go-to for painting cabinets and furniture? Thank you (if you see this and can comment) .
Out of these 2 finishes I think the rolled one does look better. But the brush one does not look bad! But really I am a sucker for a sprayed finish, it just looks so smooth! When I painted some cabinets for our school room I ended up buying a used graco airless sprayer. I seriously love the finish! Like obsessively love love love it! So worth it to me to do it that way. It was easy for me to learn to use it. The cabinets were my first time ever using an airless sprayer, and it seriously looks like a professional factory finish.
Airless. Does that mean without a compressor?
@@charisma-hornum-fries yes, no compressor that pushes the paint. It is a motor that sucks up the paint and sprays it out at high speed.
I used primer and Advance from BM and the roller they recommended. Cleaned with krud kutter, scuff sanded, and sanded between every coat except the last. I only used a good Purdy brush in crevices and the boxes then rolled over. I let each coat dry for at least 24hrs. They turned out very smooth with no bubbles or brush marks. I was super pleased with the self leveling of the Advance paint.
I painted my kitchen cabinets with advance paint in 2015 and I added floetrol and sprayed them. Turned out amazing.
Yup same here I have tried every method for me super smooth brush works best if not spraying as it levels out where foam or micro fiber roller leave that rough texture. You used too much paint when brushing and did not use a smooth enough brush, if you did these two it would have come out much better! I know not anyone can but spraying is way to go just sprayed a bathroom vanity and wow just wow!
Key being you SPRAYED!
We love Advance! It levels so well, it’s very durable, and there’s no topcoat needed or recommended. The only thing I would point out is that the label says to wait 16 hours between coats.
I’ve just finished painting all my kitchen doors/drawers using Advance. I sprayed them though with a Wagner 590 sprayer. I added Floetrol and a bit of water to thin it out and allow for a bit more self leveling action. I also de-greased using a degreaser (dish soap is not enough!) , then buff sanded and sanded in between primer and all 4 coats of Advance. Thin coats are always the manufacturer’s preferred method, and let them sit for a full 16-24 hrs between another sanding/painting round. Then a full 5-7 days to CURE. You really shouldn’t re-attach them to the boxes until they’ve cured or u run the risk of chipping and denting and messing up all your hard work. This is not a job to rush!
I’m painting over cabinets that I did 12 years ago with a brush and roller and I have to say, there is no comparison to spraying (plus sanding well between coats). My cabinets now look high end factory finish and not at all “DIY”.
It’s a LOT of work and tests your patience, but if done right, you will have a project you can be proud of and one that will hold up for a decade and more.
You think brush and roller gives the more high end look?
@@cynthias2335 no, sorry. My rambling made it unclear. I stated I was SPRAYING over an older version that I had previously used brush and roller. There’s no comparison to spraying, which gives a factory finish if done right and with patience. I just hung them all back up and they look amazing, in a kitchen with a lot of direct sunlight.
Surprisingly, I always thought I was the only one who brushed then rolled until I found you. I’ve been doing this technique for several years and I find it’s the best as well. I’m excited for you moving into painting kitchens. I started painting kitchens in 2020 and this past year my business just exploded with kitchens. It’s a definite comfort zone for our revenue streams. I schedule one kitchen a month and this allows me to work on furniture for my clients also. Best of luck to you. I thoroughly enjoy your videos. Keep up the great work. 😊
Love hearing that kitchens were good for your business! I’m excited 🖤
Do I need to sand my cabinets before applying the primer? And I might’ve missed but are you sending between coats of primer and I’ll paint?
@@LoriSews I would lightly sand with a 220 grit sandpaper. I clean the cabinets first, then sand. This ensures a good adhesion for your primer.
What brush do you use?
@@rampitup12 There are several brushes on the market that work really well. Purdy or Zinsser, to name a few. But I really like Ace Hardwares own brand. I typically buy the 2 1/2 inch brush with the short handle for painting the larger surfaces. I use a small decorative brush on the edges of doors and drawers.
I will have to check out that primer. I refinished our kitchen cabinets. Cleaned with Krud Kutter, sanded, BIN Shellac primer, then applied Ben Moore Advance. Brushed on rolled off method with a foam roller. The finish was beautiful and it’s been super durable.
The foam rollers didn’t leave small bubble prints from the foam?
@@seriejohnson698 They didn’t leave lasting bubbles for me. I suppose you could use a microfiber roller. The foam was not as perfect as a spray on finish but it was great for us.
wash the foam roller with hot water to soften it then dry it out completely by squeezing out the water and using a paper towel it will get rid of the bubbles . Or use a Micro fibre roller to get a really smooth finish.
When painting boats with topside paint, you use the foam roller and “tip” with a dry brush, lightly dragging it across to pop the bubbles and smooth it out. When done properly it is almost as smooth as a sprayed finish.
Congrats on growing your business! A word of warning on kitchen cabinets -- they will be covered with years of greasy, grimy dirt. So be prepared to do some serious cleaning prepwork.
I’ve used that paint on my cabinets and they did say to put on very thin coats and my cabinets turned out amazing
We have a old house 1930s..we like seeing the light brush strokes! Sprayed finish looks like plastic to me.
As they say...different strokes fr different folks!
Good video!
Couldn't agree more, I repainted all my cars with a brush and now they don't look plasticy 🤪
I used the Stix and Advance on my bathroom cabinet 7 years ago, still looks great!
I painted my cabinets and used a little Sunnyside M-1 Latex Paint Additive & Extender and got a super smooth finish. Started rolling off with the foam roller and then switched to a roller for smooth surfaces. If I were to do it again, I would use your idea of mixing the polycrylic into the top coat because the hardest part was adding the polycrylic at the end. By the way, thanks for that idea. I painted 2 bathroom vanities using 1/2 poly, 1/2 paint and a splash of the m-1 and got a perfect finish.Good luck with your cabinet adventures.
How long did it take the paint to dry? I noticed the latex paints takes forever to dry :(
I always use Flotrol when painting wood surfaces.
@@rt3box6tx74 How much flotrol and do you add it to each coat? Then do you spray or brush/roll? Does it extend dry time? Do you also add poly to the last coat or do it as a separate coat? I'm 76 and do NOT want a do-over 😁 Thanks.
@@judymiller5154 Quantity of Flotrol depends on thickness of original paint. Flotrol for oil base paint is different than the one for latex paints. Latex paints that are showing brush strokes can be thinned with water but I avoid using water even with latex paint. To determine if you need Flotrol you'll need to paint the surface in an inconspicuous spot like beside a fridge, and give it 15 or 20 minutes to self-level. Companies are advertising "self leveling" paint, but I've no experience with those products yet.
For oil base paint start with well mixed paint on your primed and lightly sanded surface. For sanding a primer coat I'd recommend 400 grit sandpaper to get rid of microscopic burrs that can only be felt by running your hand over the surface. Dust off the fine particles with a slightly dampened, lint free paper towel.
Make notes on the amount of flowtrol you add. For a big job I'd start by pouring 2 cups of paint into my work container, adding 1 Tablespoon of Flowtrol and stirring very well. 2 cups of paint lasts about as long as anyone wants to work between breaks. Keep all paint cans and work containers closed /covered when not in use. Plastic shrink wrap and aluminum foil are handy for this.
I use Purdy natural bristle brushes, but they also make a good brush that's natural boar bristle mixed with poly bristles. Any high-end brush with feathered or tapered-end bristles will work. The better the brush the more professional the job looks. If you're painting cabinet doors try to lay them flat on a horizontal surface if you have room. I've used sheets of plywood on top of saw horses for big jobs but these days plywood is too expensive to buy just for one painting session. Masonite or heavy cardboard like refrigerators and freezers are shipped in can substitute as a surface for a painting table. Once you begin painting you don't want to be moving cabinet doors around much. If you can find them get some little round plastic surface elevators that will lift your cabinet doors off the table surface a bit. Paint stores will be familiar with that product. I've used all kinds of objects as substitutes. Wood dowells, even sardine cans. Even though the paint feels dry to touch it can still be soft and easily skinned... like skinning your knee. That's another reason to paint the backs of doors or insides ofndrawers first. Retouching a few paint dings on backs of doors isn't nearly as stressful as trying to blend in a ding on door fronts.
Flotrol may hasten drying time slightly, but hurrying the process isn't recommended. If you're in a big rush hire a pro. If you're going to paint door insides paint those first to get a feel for how the paint will flow out. After you see the results on the backs of doors you may want to add more Flotrol, or decide to use less. I never expect the first coat to cover perfectly. There may be a variation in paint transparency or oopaqueness after the first coat. It's normal. Use your little fine textured foam roller and tray to apply the paint to the surface quickly, then add a bit of paint to your brush to smooth out paint around the edges first, then do the middle with long graceful strokes down the whole length of the wood grain. Line your little roller tray with aluminum foil so you can start fresh each painting session. Paint should be rolled onto each door and layed off with your brush one by one, as quickly as you can manage. Wrap your foam roller and paint brush tightly in a shopping bag making total surface contact with the plastic to keep them wet between uses. If using oil based paint, tools that sit wrapped up for over 2 days will need to be cleaned or replaced. For latex paint the time between cleanings is shorter because their surface skins over more quickly, leading to globs on the surface of brushes and rollers.
On previously dark stained surfaces I expect to sand lightly to break sheen of clear coat, prime and apply at least 2 coats of paint. On previously painted surfaces that are in good shape I skip the primer and usually do 2 or 3 coats of paint. If you can keep dust down in the paint room you can skip sanding with 400 grit between coats. You'll see and feel whether sanding between coats is necessary. I do my sanding in a separate room or in a garage, so as not to contaminate the paint room.
I find clear coats usually discolor over time, so I tend to avoid them. The exception is Delft brand non-yellowing clear coat. I used it on some knotty pine paneling I sanded down to bare wood and stained off-white. 25 yrs later there's no discernable yellowing in a kitchen/family room combo.
Preparation is the key to having success or having a mediocre outcome. Some people don't notice the difference. I hope your project turns out beautiful Judy.
@@rt3box6tx74 Thank you so much for sharing your experience and providing such thorough help. I'll have to save this!! God bless ❤️🙏❤️
I used this paint for my kitchen almost 10 years ago. I'm seeing it needs a touch up now, but has really worn well. After priming, I brush the paint in the crevices, then roll paint on the flats with a short nap 4" roller, then smooth out all of it with a quality 2" brush (cross hatching). It's a beautiful finish. I find that if I roll as a final finish, it looks like it. A brushed finish is self leveling with this paint & looks great.
That is what I do too! When I was watching this and reading the comments, I started to wonder if I was crazy. I find the roller puts on the right amount of paint and the brush smooths out the bubbles/bumps.
I did mine about 3 years ago and I was not impressed with the durability. Went on well, looked nice when new, but didn't stand up to use on the cabinet doors.
Spray them. I taught myself to use a sprayer and I never looked back. There is a learning curve and with sprayers you get what you pay for. I bought a Fuji mini-mite 5. There is no comparison with a sprayed finish and a painted finish. I can always tell the difference between hand application and a sprayer. There are always tell tale signs. Now that I know what a sprayed finish looks like, I would never ever paint my kitchen cabinets by hand. The exception would be poly top coat if I used one. That will level perfectly with the right technique. I spray primer too. I absolutely love my sprayer. I can see my face in the finish.
I am blessed to say I have been painting for 20 years and tried about every combination.for spraying rolling and brushing. My go to for bare wood is the insul x and they also make a great eurathane cabinet paint. Super hard and tuff. I stand by spraying for a glass finish. Make sure I’m using a new tip and just take my time. If I rush a painting job I get a rushed look. Only another painter can tell what part was rushed or gloomed over, but I will know I did it and I don’t like doing it at any cost.
For a DIY these finishes are completely acceptable. If your contracting work from the public then it’s a risky to try and bring some kitchen cabinets doors back without having a spray finish. The sprayed finish is expected by the consumer. I personally would not even complicate the estimate by offer the difference between spray, brush or roll. With that being addressed you are still right to practice the brush and roll techniques. Open grain wood species will always need to have the primer rolled or brushed in the fill the grain properly. I prefer to use BIN shellac primer because it will fill the grain better, it blocks tannin stains the best and it dries fast with excellent sanding. Sets of closed grain cabinets are only suitable to be sprayed from start to finish but the water base primers are acceptable for easier cleanup and less fumes
Great info, thanks!
Good deal! I clean the doors with lacquer thinner and then spray can kilz to prime. Very quick. Works well. Then I spray door paint.
I am currently painting an entire bedroom set: headboard, chest, dresser with mirror and a nightstand. I had never painted furniture before but did watch tons of videos and husband has painter friend that gave a few suggestions. One was to use the Advanced Benjamin Moore paint! Due to some of the rounded edges, grooves, etc. I actually have been brushing and rolling on the flat surfaces. I am a bit of a perfectionist and have been taking my time. Only have one set of drawers left to do and I must say, my finish looks really good. I do like the roller look on the flat panels.
Hands down, brush. Just feels like a master artists touch. Like a painting by a master.
Liquid sandpaper is the trick. I’ve used it over oil base paint and then applied latex it is still looking great 15 years later. I always clean, lightly sand and use liquid sand. You are on the right track young lady. ❤
2:12 worn down 220 grit sandpaper does not sand like 400 grit sandpaper. You're likely conflating the speed of material removal with the size of the abrasive scratching the surface to remove the material. Yes, a worn out 220 grit will remove less material than a fresh piece of paper of the same grit, and yes, a fresh 400 grit sand paper pad will remove material slower than a fresh 220 grit, but they do not leave the surface with the same finish. The large size abrasives on a 220 grit pad will leave the surface more rough and less smooth than the much finer grit abrasives on a 400 grit piece of sand paper.
This might not matter as much for your application of rolling or brushing paint, but it will matter to someone who takes that advice and tries to apply it to another job where a 400 grit surface smoothness is desired.
Since you are more familiar with the brush and roll method, I would go with that. It looks nice and would be less stress for you. Good job!
I always spray fronts of cabinets and roll the shell of cabinets with the roller you used. I definitely wouldn’t brush on without rolling out the brush marks!! It just looks more professional with sprayer or rolled
I am a kitchen / bathroom remodeler and I've tried these methods (and a few more) over the years, and it comes down to, drum roll please, Yep, spraying is the only way to get a factory finish. Also, you might try "Command" by Ben Moore. It normally doesn't sit out on the shelf so you have to ask for it. It's like Advance - smooth finish, durable - but dries in 1 hour, cures in 24.
Thanks for the tip!!
The 16 hour dry time for new coat is completely necessary. Cure time is 30 days for it to harder. The first time I did my bathroom cabinets with advance...i still topcoated it. I didn't k ow about the 39 day cure time. I did my daughter's bathroom cabinets with advance and am waiting the full 30 days to check the finish. I still may topcoat. It looks more professional and adds to durability. I did an entire kitchen with bear cabinet paint and added some flow leveler to it. It was still workable but didn't have the 16 hour drive time. I do the brush then roll to bit I like the flocked roller better than the high density foam roller.. I disagree that it os durable after only 4 hours. There is a reason it takes 40 days to cure.
great video. excellent info. I'll be doing my kitchen soon and I'm learning all I can. thanks.
Both look great. A concern for client homes (and your profit) is the recoat time frame both with primer and paint. Shellac primer can recoat in an hour or two. I like General Finishes because you can paint 2nd coat in just a few hours, although full cure time takes up to 30 days which requires client to be more careful. I made little felt rectangles cut with X's cut to go over door hardware to protect finish. Plus no topcoat required. It's super durable also. Not sure what dry/cure time is on Advance Paint.
can you please post a photo of what you mean with the little felt rectangles please Heidi?
I have used that Advance Paint many times. I also use the same primer. Love them both! I only do one coat of primer and two top coats. I use a 4 inch 10 mm micro fibre roller and brush with both products. Because the paint is self levelling, it dries smooth and slick. Almost as smooth as a sprayed finish! The only drawback with the paint is the fact that there is a 16 hour wait between first and second coat.
I like the brush and roll method because the texture is smoother. I'm thinking about painting our cabinets but not sure I have the energy.
I would like to see a spray painted one too. They look good. Mine were brushed and rolled and I am not happy with how they look up close. I did not do them myself.
Brush and roll is what I like the best. Your close-ups were incredibly well done. Great vid.
I was always taught to tip it off with a brush after rolling it on. A Very fine badger hair brush was recommended. 12:19
Presently BM Advance is hands down the best out ! Before Advance was developed I was using BM oil Impervo. It was really a fantastic paint BUT the oil contains very potent fumes which is a hard sell to customers but When cured was the hardest coating you could find and was indestructible! Since Advance came out it’s all I use! Honestly after 30 days of curing it’s too is very protective. Also unlike its oil counterpart flows out and self leveling with no additives! You did a wonderful job on those panels! FYI, some panels are actually two separate panels and the crack where they meet must be chalked because if you don’t months down the road the paint will crack from slamming the cupboard doors . Let chalk dry before priming!
Thanks for this tip. I am not a painter but considering painting my cabinets and so doing research. What do you mean by the cabinets “must be chalked” if they are 2 separate panels? What is chalk? Thank you!
@@safiyyahokoye2832 I think the person is meaning caulk and its not a good practice to caulk where the raised panels fit into the stiles of the doors as this will prevent them from floating which is done for expanding and contracting as wood does throughout the seasons. This is just my opinion and im just a human being but do have experience in woodworking
I am a master painter. Awesome technique and skills. Love your videos and enjoy the different finishes you do. I do high end kitchens and don't us BM Advanced. Not saying it is bad paint. But...has some major draw backs. The recoat time is 16 hours. Yes you heard me, to rush it in a kitchen will have this stuff flake off years earlier. Next is finish, it looks and feels plasticity. When held next to pre-cat
Lacquer or Centurion. Again no disrespect. Customer doesn't care about the feel or look and you have time Advanced will never let you down
Been painting 30 years, furniture, walls, basically anything that doesn’t move, but only did cabinets a couple times. Afraid to try Advance cause it’s an animal I don’t know. My method sand, prime with Bin, then two coats of good Behr Latex. 24 hours later followed by two coats of Varathane Ultimate Polyurethane. Using latex and sanding in between, I get a glass finished you would swear was sprayed on. I have sprayed furniture as well, but for me, I like the perfection I get with the up close and personal finish I achieve with a brush.
@@carlacoon856 It is an awesome paint, apply it thin though and of course don't overwork it. Be super patient, I have actually put on a different BM as 1st top coat then finished with BM. As it is pretty much impervious to everythjng
@@snowthugs Thanks so much for responding. I'm using it now on cabinet doors. I used it on the frame and the drawers. It definitely acts different from what I am use to. The most frustrating part for me has been trying to go back over a spot even a minute later. It seems to mess up the paint. I wasn't sure if I was going to thick or thin. So I'll try thinner on tomorrows doors. I've also tried a Wooster Silvertip which was great on the drawers, but after washup, I did not follow with a mineral spirit rinse as other painters have suggested and sure enough that brush acted messy on the doors after it had dried, so I switched to a Zebra and it was okay. I wonder if the oil molecules in the paint need that extra rinse?
I'm also afraid of doing the reverse side of the doors, as I've been drying them raised up on paint cans. Won't the cans make an indent in the uncured but dry paint on the back of the door, while I'm painting and drying the tops? Not sure how others handle this part. With latex they are dry in a day so able to paint both sides and stand them up to dry but I'm afraid the Advance will stick.
@@carlacoon856 Doors are tricky especially with BM Advanced. I haven't had luck painting then vertically as by the time you make it all the way around using a brush and roller you have to cut in the end where you started or you mess up the paint as it will pull it up if a roller hits it. Now I use Stak Racks for doors, still need to flip the doors over after 10 minutes. Or just let one side dry overnight if you got time and flip over and do other side next morning. Nobody will see the touch up marks at the top and bottom edges. Or for the paint can method just order shinny silicon place mats, then cut into pieces and put over the paint cans. Paint doesn't really stick to silicon and adds padding to the paint can.
Pro tip...use a regular napp instead of the brush...lay a heavy coat, then go over with the foam roller...I never dip the foam roller...the key is to never allow the material to dry...in other words the whole piece must be foam rolled as one with all areas wet...the regular napp will allow you to achieve this faster before knocking it down with foam roller
What is a napp?
@prestonphillips3375 a paint napp or sleeve
@prestonphillips3375 roller cover
Awesome...A year ago, I used that primer when I painted my bathroom tiles (in the shower area) It has held up great NOT one chip or flakes at all ...the paint I used was a Behr Oil based enamel ,and then a oil based top coat...I didn't use that shower for about 2months and I am so glad it turned out so good...I did the brush and roller method..
That’s amazing!
When you say "dry roll" do you mean you wipe off the roller between each door or get a new one or that you just do not dip it into paint? How many doors would you use a single roller on before replacing it for being "wet-ish" ? Thank you. I'm priming my cabinet doors right now!
I painted my daughters 80 year old cabinets after stripping off 5 layers of paint using BIN primer and BM Advance paint using brush and roller method and they look great after 3 years!
You sound like my mom! We'd paint on the weekends, then I would come home after 5 pm & she'd be there, having painted all day! We did every square inch, inside and out! Bless you for helping your daughter, because we are blessed having mothers like you! ❤❤❤
And I just noticed your last name, my maternal grandmother's maiden name was Werner! What a small world!
I absolutely love the original finish. And I do love painted furniture but original is awesome
Been Moore products are awesome, but a bit expensive. I've switched to using Break Through from PPG, its a water borne acrylic as well, I've had tremendous success with it on cabinets and trim. Key to it, is not over brushing/rollering it. I achieve sprayed on look by using Wooster's Chinex FTP (best brush EVER!) along with Wooster Pro 3/8" nap Smooth finish or Mohair blend roller covers. Been painting for 30 years and still enjoy it and these product make me look good! Enjoyed the video!
By the way after reading some of the other comments, Break through from PPG can be sanded and recoated in about an hour. I double coat doors and trim same day all the time, depending on humidity, I live in Ohio so I cant control that, LOL.
Ben Moore advance has a primer for that paint advance primer I’ve use both and like the primer that goes with the paint ! I’ve been painting 37 years I’d recommend using the primer for that paint thanks !
I’ll try that out for sure, thanks!
I went out and purchased those products based on your video. I’ve been a remodeler for 30 years and I am always looking for good tips and info. I’m thrilled so far with the primer. Working on top coat later today. By the way, I worked Dunwoody, Buckhead, Roswell and Alpharetta for my first 15 years in business. I bet I painted 10 golden oak kitchens in Dunwoody alone. I’m in Missouri now
When you painted the golden oak cabinets did the grain show through? How would you prevent that?
Oh wow, small world!!
@@terrio5258 They make a grain filler but I’ve used drywall mud. It sands easy and is easy to apply with a spreader( like in body work). As long as it’s primed properly, it holds up well
I’ve been painting cabinets for years. #1 thing-make sure you have a great contract! I brush and roll the boxes and spray the door and drawer fronts. Good luck-ask if you have questions!
What kind of paint sprayer do you use? I am not a professional but would like to get a paint sprayer
Did you have a lawyer draw up your contracts or is there a standard form you use?
I never thought of that contract thing! Is that like a warranty? I made some mistakes in hiring handymen, a contractor, and a heating and cooling company that took me for a ride, left huge messes, and I had to pay later after they raised the rates triple!
I want to take them to court, because of the shoddy work, the lies, taking away my perfectly good appliances that were under warranty and probably selling them!
I’m 68, 4’ 9”, single, and disabled, and they saw that and took advantage of me while I was lying down and the money went through the contractor who blamed the heating and cooling, but he did stuff as well that I never wanted done, that he charged me for. He also had a crush on me and came by any time he could to find something to do and I fed him! I could just scream!
Hard lesson learned! In two years, I’ve never made up the savings I had that they used up. I can’t even afford to get two teeth o lost from an autoimmune disease!
You might want to try a microfiber roller sleeve and see if it works better.
Also, Benjamin Moore makes a better option for cabinetry called "Scuff X". They often display it in the retail stores specifically on cabinet doors to demonstrate how well it sticks and resists scuffing. In my professional experience, "Advance" isn't worth the price. I didn't notice a difference from the other top line products like Regal or Aura for trimwork but I've never used it on cabinets. I used Scuff X at the recommendation of a local Benjamin Moore dealer.
Great tip, I will definitely try that paint asap 💃
@@blacksheephousetry Insl-X cabinet coat. I’ve used Advance a lot, the last quart I bought was not the same and I’ll not be buying it anymore. You can use Insl-x Cabinet Coat on trim, too.
I do a bunch of these kitchen jobs. I make a spray station in the garage and spray all the doors, cut and roll the cabs. I use TSP to clean, stiX for grab and skuffX for my finish coats for durability.
My daughter just had her kitchen cabinets done white as well. The guy took them outside and sprayed them, but wow he did something horribly wrong bc some feel really fuzzy and look textured, my guess is he didn’t clean or degrease maybe… almost feels like he sanded them and forgot to knock the dust off and sprayed them 🥲 I really like the brush and roll technique you did.
Have you tried Heirloom Traditions paint? It's an All in One paint. A lot of folks use it on cabinets. I have not but have used it on furniture. It's awesome.
I used it on my kitchen cabinets in March of 2020 and they still look amazing! It was my 1st project with the paint and I've used it on tons of things since. Tried a couple others only to be disappointed. It's worth every penny-just always buy it on sale ;-)
I like the foam roller. I just used one to paint a table top and it really helps if you want a smooth texture. I can always see stroked from a brush. LOVE THE FOAM.
Have you tried Floetrol? I use a 16% blend on trim with results that are similar to a sprayed finish . Even cheaper paints give a professional result this way , brushed or rolled .
Great job. The Ben Moore advance is a great self-leveling paint that is forgiving for brush and roller marks. A couple of things that come to mind, which brush did you use, and have you tried rollers like purdy white dove? I started out using foam rollers and discovered I was getting roller lines. But in the end, if you sand between coats and use a self-leveling paint like Advance, you will be in good shape. I like corona brushes. Also, try doing longer strokes on the brush.
Corona brushes are amazing.
I’m spraying the doors and drawer fronts, but will brush/roll the boxes, so thanks for your suggestions.
As a follow up, I completed my project and I'm VERY happy with it so far. I'm really glad that I rolled and brushed the cabinets saving all the prep work of masking and draping and dust from spraying inside the house. The doors and drawer fronts were sprayed in the garage with several fans pointed out and the finish looks great. The real test will be how they hold up to real world use over time.
BM Command is an incredible product too. It can be applied by brush also. The most impressive quality is that it bonds to surfaces without primer. It sticks to lacquer!!!!!
Thank you for providing us with a comparison video. Great to know this paint passes the scratch test. As someone who has lived through multiple kitchen remodels, cabinets are not a spot you want to see texture, of any kind, whether it be from brush strokes or foam roller. Natural and/or artificial lighting can enhance even the slightest texture. As a customer, this is not something I would personally be happy with. Since you are taking on bigger projects, it might be beneficial for your business to invest in a sprayer!
Brush, definitely ❤
I like the paintbrush finish the best… Great work and good luck for your kitchen contract project!
I'm not only voting for the brush & roll but plan to use your technique on my next "flip"!
If I had to choose between the 2 it would be brush and dry roll. 1st choice would always be spray.
Love your videos and have learned so much from them. You've gotta try spraying though. I'd recommend a cup spray gun and Air compressor. It does take a little practice but after getting the hang of it you will never want to use anything else. The finish is like nothing else
I don't know how to post picture or link in comments. The felt protector hangs over the knob or pull to protect your fingers from scratching the paint. Cut a rectangle from craft felt that will cover the area where your fingers would scratch the finish around the knobs or pulls (around 2 or 3 inches) Cutting an X pattern in the felt allows you to hang the felt protector onto the knob so your fingers won't touch the paint. It also reminds the owner to be careful with the finish.
What a brilliant idea!
I used this same Primer and Advanced paint on an entire kitchen inside and out. You have to remove all the hardware and hinges. Use PSP to clean before the initial sand. I did two full coats of Primer with sanding in between coats and three full coats of Advanced with sanding in between coats. The most important thing to know is to paint all the edges with a high quality brush and follow threw with a high quality two and four in roller and you will see the bubbles but they are self leveling it’s why the Advanced paint is NUMBER ONE 🎉. This is not a rush job by any means. This will take well over a week because you want these coats of paint to properly cure before a sanding and do not dry roll your foam roller as per this video. That’s why it looks like orange peel.
Both look nice, but I would go with the brush on, roll off method. 😊 Congratulations on expanding your business!
I paint with advanced all the time. I use a microfiber roller, dip and roll. Always delivers a beautiful result.
I use the brush and roll on method. I think that way I have more control of the amount of paint I am putting on. Thank you for sharing the testing of the different methods. Very helpful 👌
All-in-One is the best. No need to prime anything. Good on everything. Easy peasy.
I want to send this to a friend who in't a painter & who is doing cabinets, but I'm afraid she'll see all that thickly loaded brush in the first part of video & have a less than perfect finish.
II don't mean this negatively, but your sound, camera work are better than any I've seen, but you used so much extra paint in your application.
Advance will give you a diamond hard, smooth & impeccable finish with a barely loaded brush & roll.
Your finish would've looked as smooth as the brown stained finish having done so.
Also to anyone spraying advance; it is very thin to spray, so go only with a VERY fine mist or you will have a pooling mess of a disaster on your hands.
Use a quality professional sprayer and go THIN.
The paint will magically even out.
I was watching the tv show on Magnolia, for love of kitchens featuring the deVol kitchen cabinet company bespoken old English kitchens. On their classic cabinets the standard finish is three top coats, 2 sprayed and final brushed.
Put holes in the rim of the can (the valley part) with a nail to allow the paint to drip back into the can.
I take paper towels or a clean rag, roll the edge enough to take a straight screwdriver and stuff the rolled edge into the crevice (valley part) on top of the paint can and allow the remainder of the towel/rag to drape around the sides of the can. I can still use the inside rim of the can to remove excess paint from my brush or stir stick. At the end of the job or day, I remove and toss the towel/rag. The top and outside of the paint can is clean, and the lid fits better without becoming adhered to the can.
I prefer the "brush only" texture. I'm sure that both methods will produce beautiful cabinets, but I just like the look of the regular brush better.
Those are both nice! 👍🏻 But being the perfectionist that I am, I would want my kitchen cabinets spray painted.
Me too!😊
A perfectionist does things themselves to their standard of perfection. If someone else does the work you are a critic.
Wonderful. I like the brush and roll tecnique and I'll take your recommendation for primer and paint when i re do my own cabinets!
I’ve tried this method but instead of following up with a dry roller brush, I’ve wet and removed excess water to have a slightly damp roller brush. It works beautifully. Hope this helps some of your subscribers. 😊
Does it make a smoother finish for you this way?
I use the same primer and paint on my cabinets and interior doors. It has been three years and they still look new.
Outstanding! I live in metro Atlanta GA. If the house I purchase needs cabinets painted i will contact you first. My goal was to do it myself but I recently broke my right shoulder - during a house tour! (Of course I am right handed.) At 73 am v-e-r-y grateful I didn't also break a hip. My Ortho surgeon advised I should not touch a paint brush for at least 6 months. Moving will prove interesting.
Once again, another great video.. I like your brush and roll method.. Going between HGTV Ovation Plus or this Benjamin Moore paint.. Thank you.
They both look great. It’s hard to choose. Good job!
I think both look great but I really like the texture and look of the paint brush.
Good evening. Excellent video with impeccable production values. - a truly inspiring and heartfelt video and truly motivating. Your home decor and painting skills. are impeccable, and your sense of aesthetics is impressive. This weekend, , don't forget to take some time for yourself. That being said, have a wonderful week - and as always, thanks so much for sharing. 🌹🌹😊😊
that primer and paint combo I love it I used to work at ace hardware. when I used the benjamin advanced I was impressed with the paint the only not so good is the drying time it takes longer
Brush finish looks bespoke. I love it. Great job.
Definitely the brush & dry roll. I can clearly see the brush strokes just using the brush method, not a fan! You did a FABULOUS job. Keep us the good work! 🙋♀️👍🏻
Also your can build a cheap small paint booth with wood framing or PVC and wrap in plastic and use a couple cheap fans I like bathroom fans and I mount to frame or Wagner makes portable booths. I think you're doing good. Great job
Thank you so much for that comment because that is extremely good information I'm going to do that that is to build a little paint booth in my basement
Both finishes are great. I think it depends on the overall “feel” is desired for the finished design as to which technique to choose for any given project.
I used both products on my kitchen cabinets using a velour mini roller using multiple light coats and M-1 extender it looks almost as if it was sprayed also I would suggest the extra step of a water based polyurethane because it will eventually begin to chip from finger nails near the handles.
Great tip! I’ll try that in the future, the velour roller I tried before left fuzz on my surface but maybe if I use some tape first to de fuzz it
Beautiful! Could you tell me the paint color and sheen you used? You’ve definitely convinced me to try the BM Advanced paint.
You’ve got the right products for DYI. Less paint on the brush for sure.
Been using Ben Moore paint for over 40 years, and wouldn’t use another brand. Advance is great, but pay attention tothe dry time between coats. Ben Moore recommends 16 hours between coats, even though it will feel dry much sooner. Keep in mind that ATL humidity will often make drying takes a bit longer. I agree with an earlier commenter: use a little Floetrol to aid self-leveling. I use 2 caps per gallon. If using the entire can on one project, I add 1 cap when opening the can, and the 2nd capful when the can is half empty. Finally, if you want the best finish, IMHO, there’s no substitute for spraying. If you have a compressor (Ryobi makes a decent, inexpensive one), then get a Harbor Freight HVLP gun (about $30). Once you practice a bit, you’ll see the noticeable difference that spraying makes for doors & drawer fronts.
I do just the opposite, roll it on with the whizz smooth surface roller and then tip it off with a fairly clean but wet with a little thin paint, comes out beautifully on 6 panel doors, looks kinda really smooth and even but can tell it's brushed as well, very natural
Easy to see the brush marks. If you spray well consider spraying. People will complain about the brush marks. I believe this paint dries to quickly as even roller texture is visible.