How To Attach Rigid Foam Insulation To Concrete
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- Опубликовано: 26 янв 2013
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Foam anchor link: amzn.to/2LBV5DJ
Shannon from www.house-improvements.com/fo... shows you how to attach rigid foam insulation to a concrete wall. If you have any questions, click the link here in the comments to visit our forum and ask Shannon directly. 
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Your page has definitely helped me allot when I need a reference. thanks for making these videos
Thank you for taking the time and patience to help DIYers!
been following your videos for a while, just the value of videos and knowledge that u have under your sleeve make you a legend my friend!
Excellent videos and very useful tips from a pro.
Keep them coming!
Thank you.
Thank you,
I find your instructions very clear and appreciate your comments.
I will be following these videos while doing my basement project..
Many good tips that I would have overlooked and that saves me money and time...
My humble thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Shannon, just a big thank you from Canada for all these useful videos. I owe you a beer, man!
Yes , you must use an adhesive made for ridged foam as you said.The problem with the adhesive is that sometimes you need to use temporary support to help hold it to the wall until it sets. If your walls are fairly smooth and even you will have better luck in maybe not needing temporary support.
this guy is great really knows his stuff the video on vinyl siding is the best on RUclips
Agreed, he has one of the best videos for alot of his stuff...He helped me with some work that a plumber screwed me on and we fixed out selves..Thanks to Shannon's video! I had a plumber do a terrible job get paid, and never finished so I watch all of his videos! So I was able to finish myself, since we could not afford another person, or trusted anyone else anymore...So thanks to his videos, ended up doing alot of my own work now...
Cool vid, I did the basement and glued the foam boards and taped off the seams. I was not sure on how to go about insulating the top, but after seeing this vid, helped me make my decision. Thanks again.
Yes I would insulate the wall cavity with batt insulation as well. Most 2" styrofoams are about R8 or R10 . If you are in the northern States or in Canada that is really not enough so by adding another R12 to the framing you will have a nice warm basement. Don't forget your vapour barrier before the drywall goes on. I used "Great Stuff" spray foam but really pretty much any type made for filling gaps and cracks will do.
The infloor heat is a great way to go, you will be toasty warm .
Twenty years ago I worked at a Dow plant making these boards. Kind of fun seeing how they're installed here.
Thanks for watching
great job explaining, very simple and effective way of showing how to do these things, thanks
great video Shannon.i just insulated 2 courses of block in my shop using your method.the anchors are made by ucan and can be bought at CRS or bolts plus here in Canada.
good to hear, I'm thinking of insulating the concrete surrounding my basement with rigid foam , but adding tinfoil bubble wrap in between, makes sense?
Always great videos. Thanks!
I always look for your videos when I need help with projects 👍
Great video. Using a foam gun makes applying spray foam sealant much much easier and neater, and is more economical- if you're using a lot of foam sealant, it's well worth investing in a foam gun. You can find a good gun for $50 or less, and the cans are about $8 or less in bulk. These cans hold much more foam and you don't have to worry about the can or nozzle clogging.
Just always keep a can of foam on the gun and run some foam through the gun at least every other week, and the gun will last many months without ever having to clean it. Using acetone foam gun cleaner actually makes the gun clog faster, only use those when you're going to put the gun away for long term storage.
Thanks Sir it was very use full for me i used this method of work in my project , best of luck sir
My house and I thank you for all your knowledge that you've passed along in your videos...
you're welcome, john.
Shannon, Thank You for this video it was a great help.
love all your videos...you explain everything greatly ...
man, larry is everywhere. I seen him back on tv when he was working for five other guys. bob vila, u name it.. still trying to find latex for the diy injection..nice job HI , I always apprec the time u take to show us stuff.
+richard michalko Thanks, we try our best.
You have a video for everything. Love it
Amazing video, so much information, Thank you!
Very helpful as usual, thanks Shannon
Thanks for the video! This helped us a ton! Our basement is not cold anymore.!
good to hear
Tape your anchors as well if not using a vapour barrier.Some prefer to use some poly under any wood touching concrete but I only use it under the wood if it is not pressure treated or blue wood.
Thanks. Great video!
Great video, helped me a lot, thank you for posting!
Great video! Very cool!
Great video. Thx for posting
I had never heard of those plastic anchors but they should work great in my basement. Thanks.
Anchor and Hilti are two brands
The poly and foam is there to prevent vapour from entering but if minor amounts do get through they should evaporate
I thought you would want the moisture to get through a permeable barrier in order to not trap it. How else will it dry out?
There are many choices and they very on availability depending where you are living. Just be sure that what you chose is good for damp areas , I'm not a big fan of the white bead foams.
awesome video. Thank you!
Well I live in Saskatchewan and it definitely gets cold here in winter. I have never ever heard of such a thing! New homes in my area where the basement will not be finished before the sale of the home must have the basement walls from the main floor down to the outside grade level insulated. Usually a" insulation bag" is used for that, but once the basement is finished into a usable living space the exterior walls are completely insulated and inspected buy the local authorities.
Less chance of mold build up
Great video withe right amount of detail for DIY guys like myself. Thanks!
Good video, thank you for sharing. It was very helpful!
I have a pressure relief system installed in my home, would it be a good idea to cover the mirror drain with the XPS foam board or stop right above it? Thanks!
If I'm going to put down dmx underlay with osb subfloor would you recommend installing the walls as you describe before or after installing the floor. Wondering if it will make a difference when it comes to moisture migration and/or ventilation behind the vapor barrier.
Thanks for the info - very helpful.
you are welcome
I know this is years on, but would this solution work without a finished framing over top of it? I have a split level house and the garage brick walled half underground. I wanted to insulate the two exterior facing walls and don't really have any need of for framing it or going further. Since there's an HVAC vent going in to the garage already, I'd like to keep it closer to the house temperature.
Also, in this case, would silicone caulking work in place of closed cell foam in order to seal the gaps? I figure it would be more aesthetically pleasing since I'd probably paint over or something so it wouldn't just be foam board.
I found that applying great stuff to the back of the rigid foam and bracing the rigid to the foundation until the great stuff cured worked for me. No added holes in the foundation and it was a quick and cheap process. I needed the great stuff to seal around the foam so I had it handy. I've tried to pull it from the foundation wall and it wont budge. I applied the great stuff vertically up and down the back of the board.
userfriendly06 great stuff is not so great. Very messy. You must need a can per sheet.
Only a thin layer, so not so much. @@DONALD1951
very helpful video
thanks
Good Job, Thank you
Awesome video.
What’s the best foam to use for a walk out basement in Maine (cold cold winters) and do I or should I drylock walls first before applying foam?
The depth will depend on your anchor length and foam thickness . In my case I was drilling 2" deep.
If you do not have to many you can use a wide cold chisel and hammer and knock them off or a grinder with a diamond concrete disk. The grinder will be dusty for sure though.
You do nice clean work
great help. thanks
Great video. I was hoping to see how you insulated with the rigid around that basement window. I have to tackle that shortly.
Awesome. I'm from Nova Scotia
Thank you. I learned a lot. :)
I need to get into the half of the crawl space I am insulating. If I use only horizontal sheet of foam as a temporary wall into the area with pipes I am heating and insulating, should I add a vapour barrier?
I’m about to do my basement. My question is about sealing the top and bottom. Wouldn’t you want the bottom to be open so if there is any water that may appear can drain out towards possible raised subfloor? Same for the top plate. Shouldn’t we keep the top open so that the wall can breathe and allow for drying out etc ? Thanks
On cinder block walls I would lean toward attaching the foam with adheisive only. the blocks are generally hollow and can break unless you can drill in the grout line areas . The cost of materials is going to vary by region depending on the foam and cost in your area. Labour will vary as well. Around me this would be about $1 sq' materials and .40 cents /sq' labour
Hollow are get filled with mortar
@@mosanchez09 At least you always hope they are. I am the second owner of a house built in the twenties and I know for a fact that they didn't use mortar in some of the spots.
@@jeremywheeler8417 thats crazy, i would be mad for a half ass job. Pretty scary
Agreed. The anchors were really unnecessary.. especially drilling into concrete wall. Just use adhesive and call it a day
thanks for the video.
i am putting 2 inch foam board on the walls in my crawlspace and plastic vapor barrier on the floor , my question is , do you put the plastic vapor barrier behind the rigid foam board or in front of it , not sure what to do to get the best seal.
Thanks so much for your video. You mention stud framing the walls and attaching drywall. I assume this project is for living space in a basement. I am looking to seal off and insulate a "cold room" under the front porch. Can i just attach the insulation and tape/seal it and leave it exposed? The thought was to reclaim the damp humid cold room as a dry storage room. Any thoughts?
Nice video. Can you frame over the panels and nail wood without the extra vapor barrier (yellow plastic in the video) and bath insulation?
I find all your videos very informative and learn new and interesting methods every time I view them..Working on a 130 year old house with a new basement under it. What a challange...Another question regarding the best choice of foamboard for the concrete walls inside the basement. Is there a specific insulation used or can one use the white "basement plus" or the pink C-200. I will likely be using something in the two (2) inch range...Thank you for your suggestions..Dave
IMO, I rather use an adhesive to hold the rigid foam to the wall before I install the stud wall. No need to put holes in the wall plus its simpler and faster. I also agree with use of rock wool insulation for it ability to not mold if it gets wet and its fire rating. Just my $0.02. Good instructional video. Keep up the good work👍
would be nice if Roxul was just $0.02 ! : )
Until mold comes knocking on your door
Roulette definitely worth it: doesn't burn, get moldy
Thanks
Roxul definitely worh it, does not rot or burn and pests dont like it.
I would usually install the foam first then the plates.
You need to locate your plates so that the wall will be straight and plumb and will not hit the concert wall or foam.
Hi,
What would you do to your concrete basement wall before putting on the Ridgid Foam Insulation. Such as would there be any type of treatment to the basement wall, or if i already have a wall that is framed and put on the foam?
I'm doing a kitchen remodel, and have brick right behind the drywall. Can I use foam board?
P.S someone in the comments mentioned using "Great stuff" to adhere foam board.... absolutely correct and not anchors like shown in video, it promote leaks. "Great stuff" should spray around the entire perimeter of the foam board to prevent leakage.
You can for sure use sprayfoam or adhesive to attach the foam board but these anchors going 1-1/2" into the concrete wall will not cause any issue that are not already present.
I have sheet insulation 1.8" thick. I want to put it on my basement walls which are 8" thick poured concrete. My sheet insulation has a fiberglass type backing front and back. Do I need a vapor barrier and if so is 4 mill plastic good to use. Should the vapor barrier be against the concrete wall or overtop of the insulation? thanks your response is appreciated.
Hi Shannon, I have a question about a house built in 1967 with brick on the outside wall. I was planning to insulate my wall that is not attached to another house (corner house wall) and was trying to figure out the thickness of the studs by poking a hole in the wall with a drywall blade. To my surprise I was only able to stab 1.5" inches deep because that is how deep it is and that is including the 1/2" drywall. I don't see any insulation at all through wall when I carved a small piece off and see what looks like cement or cinderblocks. Is this configuration normal for my house of that age because I was under the impression that houses are either 2x4 or 2x6 for living rooms and bed rooms.
Initially I was going to use fiberglass or rock wool but I guess my only option is 1 " rigid foam made by Rmax Thermasheath with R value of 6. Do I need a vapor barrier with 3-6 mil plastic with this type of install or does rigid foam already serves as a vapor barrier?
Hi Shannon, could you please let me know if after put the foam insulation in the concrete wall and the framing I have also to put another kind of insulation? (for example the "yellow" insulation showed in this video) . Do you have any other video explaining that?
If you were using just 2" foam instead of foam and poly would you need to tape over the plastic anchors too, to make it a proper vapor barrier? Also do you need a vapor barrier under your bottom plate?
Thanks for the vid. Why on the floor is your blue wood away from the wall/foam so far that you need to spray foam? Wouldn't you install the foam first, then butt the framing up against it?
Hi Shannon, I am planning on installing 1/4 fanfold behind the studs to cover my entire finished basement interior wall. I don't care for the R value as I will be putting Rockwool on top of the 1/4 foam board before I sheetrock. It will be mainly used as a moisture barrier. Can I use the plastic fasteners to cinder block as it would be easier than foam spraying them in place because of the beams in the way? Also I have French drains installed with a few inches of dimple mat coming out of the ground. Should I install the foam board up to the drain mat or should I go down to the wood plate?
Just use concrete nails along the top edge 3' down or so and the odd dab of foam spray. Tuck the sheet into the dimple membrane so any moisture is directed into he french drain. Fan fold is not cheap and barely any R value I would just use house wrap instead hung backwards against the block wall.
where did you get the plastic plugs to hold the syrofoam?
I have a kitchen above ground with one wall to outside, I want to insulate it with rigid foam. The drywall was attached to 3/4 inch wood slats. I want to add one more layer of wood slat over the existing one to be able to put 1 to 1.5 inch rigid foams behind drywall. No room to put the rigid foam behind the slats. The wall is brick and block construction. The house is in northern Virginia. Why should the rigid foam be sealed the way you have done? Any reason? Thanks!
Thanks! How should the insulation be correctly applied, name brand facing the inside or outside of the ceiling? Also, is it best to use adhesive or all weather tape to hold the insulation, or both?
Please come to my forum and reask your questions, I can better answer you from there and leo it may help more people who are wanting to do similar things. The forum is free to use by the way. thanks
How deep into the concrete wall does the masonary bit go.
I think I'd be nervous to drill holes below the outside grade due to potential leaking..
Is there any way to smooth off the bumps on the concrete wall..?
I need to insulate just one wall that separates the garage to the basement.
Will probably use this insulation glued to the concrete wall. The ground is also concrete but the ceiling isn’t. Can i finish the job with the spray on the floor and the ceiling?
Thank you
is it worth putting some kind of glue or silicone when butting up the foam panels? for a really good sal
What do you do with outside corners? Use foam sealant, tuck tape, or what.
Also how small a piece can be added. I'm doin some planning and it looks like I might be need2 inches more than a full panel on one wall. So it makes sense to me to insert a 3 foot wide cut-off somewhere in the middle of the wall rather than trying to add a narrow piece at the end.
What thickness should foam boards be and should l put adhesive on back of styrofoam to attach to my basement block basement wall?
James Ontario, Canada
Thats the way they recommend Poly against the concrete wall,studs,insulation and poly on inside as well. See my video on "moisture barrier "
what would be the recommended thickness/density and type of foam(xps, or eps) for flat concrete roof insulation. what to do about the parapet creating thermal bridges with the underline concrete.
+MySchizo Buddy Sorry but that is out of my knowledge range.
The bottom edge gets filled with spray foam after the bottom plate is in place anyways, thats way I don't cut it off.
My house sets on a cement block foundation. So I have a crawlspace that averages between 3 to 4 feet. I did what this video shows to the inside walls of the crawlspace, The outside walls are a stucco, So my question is this, can I do the same on the outside of my crawlspace and then spray paint it ??? Also is this type of compressed blue insulation waterproof. I would be grateful for any advice. I just think this coming winter 2019 to 2020 in western Pennsylvania is going to be crazy cold. Thank you for your time.
How is the concrete treated on the outside, and is it pre-treated with any kind of sealer on the inside before application of this insulation?
The 1" styro does not quite give enough R value to be able to skip the poly , if I would have been using 1-1/2" or 2" I could have skipped it.
Thanks,very easy to understand,one question if I wanted put 2x4 x8 for stud wall,what type screws or nails do I use
Because I known I would put holes in the foam.Thanks
our forum is the best place to discuss questions like this.www.house-improvements.com/forums/
is it ok to put that styrofoam board directly on to cinder block? My basement is cinder block, then probably like 1 ft or 1 1/2 from that is the stud walls. between that is some sewer/drain pipes around the basement. prior we just had insulation with the paper as the vapor, but due to flood had to rip it all out. now it seems like there is such a better method for insulation, mine as well do it a little better this time.
Any tips on how to install the rigid boards on the ceiling of a cold room?
Hi,
I want to install this rigid foam in my basement, but I have a drain stack right against the concrete coming from the kitchen above. There is no hope in getting Rigid behind it, so would you just lay some 6mil plastic behind the rigid on both sides and have it behind the drain stack? And then spray foam around the base of the stack or acosti seal?
Thanks!
Will the insulation against concrete with an air gap between the wall and the studded wall sweat creating mold? I'm thinking not.
good job
Can't seem to reply to another comment, but one reason to not use the metal T or Z style studs to hold the foam and attach the drywall to is that you only end up with R5 or whatnot. Here in NB, Canada the minimum they'd like is R20.
Thanks for helping out folks like us on limited budget! I notice Lowes also have DOW Wallmate. What would work better for basement concrete wall applications, Cladmate or Wallmate?
Wallmate has grooves for wood strips to be added if attaching furring to the concrete for walls instead of actually framing a wall. I do not recommend that, use clad mate and then farm a wall in front of it.
Thanks for the excellent video! I'll be doing something like this in a few weeks. Do you see any problem with running the sheets horizontally instead? It would save me a lot of cutting and wasted material. I think I'll just have to cut off the bottom sheet's ship lap edge so that it sits flat.
It does help to keep any moisture that may be behind it to get to the floor rather than through the horizontal joint and into the insulation.
Good point. Thanks :)
I'm just installing the 2" foam board. I don't have my wood plates in place yet on the floor. Do I put foam sealer along the bottom to seal the gap between the foam board and the concrete floor? Or do you leave this open to allow any moisture to escape downward?
+Kelly C needs to escape.
so nice
The 1" styro is not enough to provide a low perm rate like poly. If I was using 2" styro then the poly vapour barrier could be deleted.
i used regular celicone to hold a foam panels. it did good job
Will this work on cinder block walls as well?
What would the material cost be per wall square foot? Installation cost?
I appreciate the video, thanks!