Moisture Barrier - 3 Types
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- Опубликовано: 28 мар 2016
- *Please note that the house wrap product should be reversed from what is shown here in video. Place the side with writing on it against the concrete wall.*
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Shannon from www.house-improvements.com shows you three different types of moisture barrier used in a basement.
If you have questions about your home improvement projects, stop by the forum on our website, where Shannon will answer your questions in detail for free.
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You guys have the most informative, well thought out videos on RUclips. I look forward to the next one.
+Brian Simonetti Thank you.
Great video as always Shannon. Feel so confident taking this on now!
Excellent guidance and representation on these products.thank you for this video!
Thank you Shannon. I was especially glad to see your comment of placing the lettering of the house wrap towards the concrete wall as house wrap is kind of like Gortex - repels the moisture on the lettering side but allows vapour to pass from the other side (inside the home) outward. All too often people get this wrong and they set themselves up for a mess i.e. mold. Nice to have you as a one stop site to get all the information accurately. Ottawa, Canada
Beautiful video. made things cleared up regarding basement insulation. Thank you.
Thank you very much. Very clear information and easy to follow. Thumbs up 👍
Once again, thank you for giving details and making professional videos!
+Lira Ziyad No problem thanks for watching
Great explanations for each type of barrier.
Clear and direct! Thanks for this
As always Shannon a really good video. Thanks
thanks, Take note that if using the house wrap, hanging it with the face side facing the concrete wall will be better. That was an over site on my part.
Very good video. Thank you for the information.
Excellent video ... Thank you!
Great video. Thank you again.
Thanks for another great video! I'm installing a new upstairs bathroom and have a little penetrating damp through a stone chimney wall. The chimney is fully ventilated with a ventilated hood on the chimney pot, but some winter rain soaks through the render outside. Builders say there's no more we can do to improve it, so using your method I plan to add a moisture barrier with drainage for any dripping condensation. We don't have much room for thick studwork so I wondered :
1) Can the batten can be installed vertically 600mm apart
2) Moisture barrier stapled to the batten
3) A 2nd batten screwed on top of the first (possibly at 90 degrees)
4) Thin rigid foam added between the 2nd battens
5) Finished with a layer of vapour barrier sheetrock
Really appreciate your advice, keep up the great work!
Great video final understand the difference between the two , where to uses one or the other in any situations foundation , attic , surrounding walls , bathroom ,...etc It is this understand of the theory and principals the install gets done quite the same ways... nice through explanation
understand this so much more now. Thank you!!
Love your videos. You sure know what you are talking about.
IT HAS BEEN POINTED OUT THAT THE HOUSE WRAP WOULD FUNCTION BETTER IN THIS SITUATION WITH THE FACE WITH WRITING ON IT PLACED AGAINST THE WALL. THAT IS OPPOSITE OF WHAT IS SHOWEN IN MY VIDEO AND I WOULD AGREE. SORRY FOR THE MIX UP!
HouseImprovements what do you think of the idea of applying a liquid membrane ( like the one we apply when we do a shower) on the concrete before insulating ?
Serge Miller the walls have to breath so sealing the wall might cause the wall to erpde due tp the water building up behind it.
I'm planning on using dmx on the floor. I was thinking about using the pink board and using the plastic to go over it and tuck the end under the dmx.... Sound like a terrible idea?
@homeimprovements if i have an interior channel sump drainage system what vapor barrier can I use that will accommodate that? Right now there is about 12 inches of black dimpled material, but id like to frame walls and "finish" the basement. Thank you.
@@1kenpau1 The wall can breathe from the outside. Spray on foam doesn’t let it breathe but it’s considered the best way.
Thanks for this video it was very educational.
You have saved me THOUSANDS!!!
great video that is why moisture barriers are more plastic based as the backing paper of pink panther insulation are air vapor barrior (now i finally see the difference)
Thanks Shannon, very informative !
+Bayou Pirate glad you found it helpful!
Very Informative, TY!
FYI, Ontario building code requires rigid foam to be a minimum R10 to act as a vapour barrier. Check your local building codes before you begin your projects. Great video!!
Im in Ontario as well, do you know if we can use the rigid foam as a vapour barrier on the basement floor?
You are my hero!!!
Awesome vid ! Well explained, just subscribed !
Thanks for the sub!
Good to hear, Philippe.
thank you I really need to put up some money saving doable at home insulation. and you're easy to understand for the average person n typical do it consumer
Thanks Bro.
thank you very much for the wonderful video. I wonder how can I install the foam without removing the frame. I got a very old house, having issues with moisture in the wall. . thank you
Thanks Shannon. Then you would install the insulation vapour barrier and drywall after the moisture barrier. That's great. I've never seen moisture barrier before. Great video.
build another wall inside:)
Very simple and presentable. Now i can do my bment step by step. Thank you!
+sasha19652 You are welcome
You are "THE BEST"the most knowledgeable and gifted "BEST TEACHER". I have a question? I want to convert my cold room in basement to a store room. The cold room has a metal corugated cieling. Do you have any video that explains the whole process of insulating the cold room. Thanks
We don't but we have more than a couple of discussions in the forum on that subject.www.house-improvements.com/forums/
Thanks for clarifying the difference between vapour and moisture barriers. Much better understanding of the function of each. :-)
+Tom Sorge you're welcome
Great video, it was helpful to understand the purpose of moisture barriers. But I have few more question, I will be grateful if you could address them.
I am in process of installing Luxurt Vinyl Planks flooring (LVP) and manufacturer recommends to use moisture barrier for underlayment. What kind of moisture barrier would you recommend as underlayment for installing the LVP flooring? We have 3 level including a concrete slab on level 1 and we will install LVPs in multiple rooms including bathrooms. Will it be okay to use house-wrap paper everywhere or would you recommend to use plastic on concrete slab and high moisture rooms (bathrooms) and then house-wrap paper for rest of the areas?
The air vapor barrior paper sheets are for more preventing water in air moisture... the moisture barrior is more for preventing larger amount of foundation leaking water from outside in. Not the smaller issue of water from air humidity... thats why attics uses paper air barriors on the floor then the insulation rollout. The moisture barrior is more for foundations or bathrooms where larger amounts of water due not only humidity but water itself sources.
Thanks for the video. so, for spray foamed basement we don't need any vapor or moisture barrier to be installed before framing? and for floor base plate where foam is not sprayed, what we need to do? I do see that in my basement, foam is sprayed a little bit on the floor as well where baseplate is placed.
I have a basement that years ago was finished but years of sump pump failures had to rip of 2x4 walls drywall was all mold.
Now just block walls on outside walls can l staple 6 mil plastic up against block walls then build a 2x2 or 2x4 walls?
Once the metal form tabs are removed, do you do anything to deal with the remnant of the tab in the wall?
I don't have any leaks my basement walls just gets mouldy I have recently put a dehumidifier down there so it doesn't smell mouldy anymore but the is no visible water coming in so I have cleaned up what mould I did have and paint ed with a mould resistant paint now I want to put the foam frame and drywall
Question for you, I have a below grade wall that is getting moisture and water. I am going to patch where needed and Dryloc at least 2 coats. They install the insulation sheets like you showed in this video. Do I need any barrier after that or can I just frame my wall?
DO YOU HAVE A VIDEO OF HOW TO DEAL WITH MOISTURE GOING FROM THE WALLS TO THE FLOOR? AND THANKS FOR THE VIDEOS, KEEP IT UP AND THANK YOUR.
+SOCIALISM SOCIALIST That is were it is supposed to go, if it is excessive you have other problems likely. Cracked foundation or a leak. Sorry we do not have anything for that.
Hello ,Paul here I would like to know before I start my basement reno the best insulation cost effective to ensure no mold . Right now my builder has put in the pink wool type should I just remove this or use once I get the studs in?
What about roxul on basement walls? Vapor barior then nail roxul with foil face outward over it?
if our crawl.space already has the cheap 6mm black builder's grade encapsulation would you need or should you remove that before you would install 15mm STEGOCRAWL? or can it go on top without causing a cat pee smell or other problems?
Love your videos but not letting me register into forum anyway Can I use floor paint product to encapsulate asbestos tile I want to install high end vinyl plank flooring over it?? Which paint do you recommend?
My basement has two side walls that are common with my neighbors and one that's facing the backyard. Do I need to insulate the common walls or just the outside one? Thanks.
Great videos Shannon. Do I a moisture barrier on concrete walls that are above the ground?
I plan to! Im remodeling my bedroom, and will take the opportunity to redo the walls.
Can I use these products to repair/replace my damaged paper on exterior wall due to mold and water damage?
The man the myth the legend
Awesome video, thank you for the explanation. Are there several types of foam to use? Any you recommend? I assume this is also applicable for basements with block walls.
I prefer GPS foam .
What's your suggestion for a stone foundation?
Thank you, I just learned that the "Vapor" barrier and "Moisture" barrier are not the same. Years ago I was told by a carpenter that us folks up north put 'the' heavy mil plastic barrier on the inside of the walls and down south it goes on the outside. So I guess since then things have changed since there are two products that separately address vapor or moisture. I recently moved and will start framing in my basement walls. Since they are painted cement blocks and appear to never have had any water leaks or stains do I still need the moisture barrier? Harry
Yes basements need a moisture barrier against the concrete or cinder block walls. You also will need a air/vapour barrier under the drywall.
@@HouseImprovements hello Shannon- thanks for the awesome videos and info! I'm in NJ and I have mold on walls in basement which was due to hydrostatic pressure around my foundation which I've solved with a new French drain system...
I had the mold remediated professionally and they "sealed" my walls with that special antimicrobial sealant/paint thing.. so would that in essence now serve as my moisture barrier? Or I'd still need one of these paths for the moisture barrier.
Also the waterproofing companies I met with kept pushing for a "vapor" barrier but I think they really meant 'moisture' barrier? Also don't these barriers lock in the moisture thus leading to mold? Since the air needs to circulate to prevent mold growth.
Please let me know your thoughts and responses to all this :-)
If I use rigid foam as the moisture barrier, do I still need to have batt insulation or is the rigid foam enough insulation for my basement? I live in the northeast so it get's cold. Also how is the rigid foam attached to the foundation? Does the rigid foam go from very top of the wall to the bottom or is there a gap on the top? Only 80% of my basement is below grade so wondering if I can skip the top 20% which is above grade. Last question, how does my wood frame attach to the rigid foam or is there a gap between the two? TIA
1 inch is R-5 which would be too low to use on its own in NE basements
Shannon, I have learned so much from watching your videos. Thank you.
Can you attach the barrier from the floor joist instead of nailing into the concrete wall?
Love your vids !
no, it needs to be a maximum of 12" above the outside ground level .
@@HouseImprovements Can you explain why that is?
Would you be able to Dry Loc the wall and use it as a moisture barrier and than use foam board?
Is paint killz good enough as a moister barrier?
Hey Shannon, when you insulate can you insulate the concrete floor, with rigid foam also? And then put the subfloor on?
You can, there are products out there with insulation and wood subfloor all in one panel . They are 2'x2' and fit together with tongue and groove type edges.
Hi Shannon, One question I am refinishing Basement in end Condo Unit and plan of using 1" Fiberboard per your video on the three cement basement walls the see the exterior. The 4th basement wall separates my end condo from the next condo unit over. Is it necessary to fiber board the wall as well since it an interior wall. I don't think the next unit is finished or heated. At the very least I was thinking of putting a lower level of moisture barrier like sheathing to save some money. Is this needed. Your thoughts and feedback would be appreciated. Thanks, Don
I would just install Roxul insulation in the wall cavity ,this will help with deadening sound transfer also. No vapour barrier or moisture barrier needed on an interior wall BTW.
Great video! I Just gutted my den and found lots of damage to my moisture barrier. it looks to be nothign more than very thick aluminum foil. The house was built in the 70's so I guess that was code back then. I have a brick house and behind that damaged barrier was raw brick and nothign else. Can I replace that old school aluminum stuff with the rigid foam or should I hunt around for that same type of moisture barrier?
Answered this on your other post
Amazing videos...especially for a female DIYer. Hopefully you still see your messages for older videos. Quick question...I am putting up the 1in refective foam board on my cement wall but there is a metal water trap? that goes around the entire circumference on my basement floor. About 4in tall. Do I put the foam board over this trap to attach to my cement wall? Or leave this area open? Guess it's used to collect any water discharge from the wall.
I hope you're not creating a double moisture barrier when you do that.
Hi! No, I only put the foam up and didn't cover the trap.
@@simplymorgans Well that's good you planned ahead and there's a trap there. Though I can't help but wonder if having a water trap is a good or bad thing. I imagine the trap holds some water which could to turn into water vapor. That could contribute to higher humidity and therefore a damp basement.
I have a brick house with 2x3 studs throughout. Im going to tear down the walls and put in roxul insulation and drywall over it. between the studs and outside wall is some tar paper or whatever they call it. Im wanting to put a vapor barrier over the roxul insulation. is that ok? also i'm in North Carolina.
also i'll be using furring strips vertically to bring the wall back out an inch. it currently has horizontal furring strips to support the vertical tongue and groove paneling.
I think you need 2x4's for roxul
Why can't the Tyvek or Plastic barriers just be tacked to the base board at the top of the concrete wall? Why put the the wood strip below it? I assume it's just due to width of the sheets?
What happens to the moisture concentrated at floor level?
+Benny Hannah The idea is that if you get moisture it comes out at the floor where you can find it and know about it instead of it soaking into the insulation and drywall and starting to grow mould that you have no idea is there.
you can also add a channel in the floor perimeter to direct the moisture away into some form of drainage or tank
I have a few questions I'm about to renovate my basement and will be doing the following.
For the tyvek wrap is the writing suppost to face outside against the wall?
And my basement is already finished but will be ripping out the walls and redoing the insulation before drywall.. It doesn't have rigid foam board, is it even possible to add because its already framed?
The Tyvek is likely more effective with the writing towards the concrete. If there is enough space you may be able to add it. Depends how they originally did it. I would not spend the money on the foam unless you can get at least 1" in there. If you cant use foam then I would likely use Roxul batt insulation instead of regular batts, it has a little more R value.
In the case where my builder has already included insulation with the vapour barrier in the basement, do I rip it down and reinstall according to your instructions or do I just put up a wall in front of it and board it up? I don't think the builder has included a moisture barrier between the basement concrete wall and the pink insulation.
Please use our forum for assistance with this.www.house-improvements.com/forums/
Let's assume there is a moisture problem. Does that mean mold will be growing behind the purple board for all the years you live in the basement? If so, is the purple board good a genuinely protecting you from that condition? I am also assuming there is no access on the other side of the concrete, which is obviously how you would want to fix it; at the source. In cities, often there is no access on the exterior concrete. THANKS!
thanks a ton for this. I just reparged some loose concrete and one wall the masonry concrete has moisture, do I need to repair outside or can I use the techniques you've shown? it's a 100yr old home in minnesota. thanks!
+Kerrigan M This mostly to handle any frost from condensation in winter and minor leaks and moisture wicking through concrete that may develop over time but your main defence for water leaks is to be done from the exterior for sure.Sounds you may need water proofing from outside and even weeping tile and sump
+HouseImprovements thanks for the info, sounds like its time to dig a big hole!
10 yrs ago the inspector had me wrap cinder block wall with 6mm poly down cinder block face into drain tile opening and face glue it shut. Then build 2x4 wall 2 inches in front of it with r13 batting and then covered with 6mm poly glued to bottom plate and taped.
Today I'm removing 120 ft of knee wall in the basement because it's completely soaked on the face of the inner poly (during MN winter.)
It ruined the batting, smells like heck and now I need a bunch of money. I told him I was going to do 2 inch xps foam and he told me to just use poly for inner and outer.
The new inspectors now are telling me that was bad information and I need to remove the cinder block poly completely and leave the drain tile open and just reset my knee wall back in place keeping it 2 inches from the block, re-batt it with backer strips keeping it away from block, and 6mm poly the face then rock.
So basically, they want me to just subtract the block wall poly. I know double lock is the reason but should I do this? Or go with 1.5 inch xps sealed to block, then wall it ? Thanks !
Block walls are not the best most of the time and that is likley the main issue ...leaky walls. IMO, 1" min. rigid foam against the block but allow the moisture to direct into the weeping system. Build the knee wall , insulate and install "Smart barrier " vapour barrier ,seal it all well around perimeter and any openings and then drywall over it.
If you need more assistance please use our forum.
I want to install insulation blankets in my basement but during heavy down pours I get water through my masonry blocks. Would it be ok to use the poly sheets to create a moisture barrier to protect the blankets before installing?
The best thing would be to stop the water infiltration but yes poly would work.
I used tar paper on my last project. The insulation can go right up against the barrier or should there be a gap, either between concrete and barrier, or barrier and insulation?
+cz3chmonkey ya tar paper is ok as long as it is good quality so it does not inhibit mould growth. Insulation is fine to be against it but usually there is a slight gap.
Ok, you have done the walls here and moisture (if it appears on concrete) goes down to the floor. But If you need to make a floor also, what would be the right way of installing floors after you've done the walls?
please use my forum. www.house-improvements.com/forums/
We have house wrap tucked into delta so any moisture or condensation goes into our interior waterproofing system. Just letting it hang wont that just let it drip to the floor and let moisture in and ruin your studs bottom plate?
If you have interior waterproofing going into a french drain then yes you can tuck the moisture barrier into the top of it.
@HouseImprovements thank you sir. Following you on Facebook too thanks
Does the rigid foam breathe? Between the wall and the rigid foam won't there be a thin humid line which can provoke fungus, roth etc?
+Vali Goaga The foam does not breath,it directs any moisture to the floor that migrates through the concrete. It also helps prevent any warm moist air that escapes from the interior of the home from being able to contact the cold concrete surface causing condensation and frost.
i was thinking about putting Styrofoam on my 1909 house poured foundation. however the walls have minor crumbling in places and are uneven. with the previous owner they put drylock. i am not sure what i should do because the rigid foam might not be laying perfect along the wall.
+Chris Carlson Please use my forum for this question, intact you may have been there already as this sounds familiar.
Can you just attach rigid foam and not finish the basement off and will tha5 help with some insulation factors
The foam needs to be covered to protect it from burning by code ,so you need drywall. The smoke it gives off if it burns is toxic.
I have a question can I use painters plastic be in my walls as vapor barrier it's garage no concrete just 2x4 framing insolation
No not for a vapour barrier, it is to thin.
Hopefully someone can answer this question for me.
So I see all these videos and articles about insulating basment interior with rigid foam and then framing in front of it. But I can’t seem to find info that claims that is fire safe. Is having drywall in front of it what makes it fire safe? I’m getting ready to insulate my basment cinderblock walls but don’t want to use XPS if it isn’t fire safe.
Wouldn’t just the plain vapor barrier be better? It seems more breathable.
Shannon, any suggestions for my situation: the basement is already framed with no moisture barrier behind the studs. Does the framing have to be torn out, moisture barrier up and re-framed? Thanks!
Well first check if your area requires a moisture barrier and if it does I would try to get one pulled in between the studs and concrete , if you can't get it in there then I would use Roxul insulation or closed cell spray foam for insulation and not regular batt insulation which is effected if it gets wet.
@@HouseImprovements Am I understanding correctly that no moisture barrier is needed if you do Roxul insulation?
If you can pull the moisture barrier between the studs and concrete, do you attach it to the stubs? Can they be touching? Thanks!
When you install the house wrap in basement, shouldn’t the logo side be facing the concrete and the blank side or black side face the studs?
In reality I dont think it will make a lot of difference but it does make sense
QUESTION Does the moisture barrier need to wrap around the bottom plate or not?
No not always but you can run it under the plate if you like.
I'm using 2" 4×8 foam board panels. Can I fur out the walls over top of panels with 1×3 firing.Then finish the walls. I'm not sure i want to 2×4 frame wall in front. Don't think I need the extra r- value. Am I being to cheap? Think I would like to finish with some type of wood 🤔
depends how flat and plumb your concrete is I suppose? Also dont forget about room to run electrical
what are you using for air vapour barrier on the inside of rigid foam installation?
Depending on the rules in your area and the thickness of the foam you may not need it but if you do I would use a poly "smart barrier". There a couple different manufactures but Certainteed is one.
What if there is no ground on the other side of the wall, i e. cold side of the wall in contact with air? Do wee need moisture barrier? And can we use a rigid foam in this case?
moisture barrier is only needed on wall sections that are below grade
@@HouseImprovements Thank you for reply. Would you consider making a video explaining all cases where the moisture barrier is needed or not? It would be nice if you could go through all cases of wall placement: above, below and half way below the grade and explain insulation rules and procedures. There are also cases when the concrete wall is below grade and is isolated by mineral wool inserted into wooden frame. As I remember correctly, one must have a min 25mm gap between the framing and concrete wall to provide ventilation. Anyways, if you would consider go through different cases based on given boundaries (above, below or and half way below grade) and give your thoughts on how to insulate based on these assumptions - that will be great
I was wondering, can you paint the walls with drylock type product and then attach the rigid foam insulation right onto it? or do we need an air space between? I find contradicting information.
You could. If installing rigid foam that acts as your moisture barrier and some insulation value.
HouseImprovements but my concern is if I need an air space between the drylock product and the rigid foam
@@gamerclownz2783 We don't want an air gap at all between rigid foam and concrete. We can use XPS\EPS over the top of dry guard\dry-lok paint.
Minnesota (cold state) inspector; recently told me this about my basement rigid foam question.
@@DevJB lol this was a 5 year old question I never used drylock. Through my research I found its a worthless junky product. I sealed my walls and floor with radonseal before using ridgid foam
can you barrier, insulation, and framing videos all be applied to cinderblock walls as well and if dry are barriers needed
Wondering the same thing. In fact, I really don’t understand how rigid foam or foam applications that are bassically air tight to the concrete are acceptable if the wall is supposed to breath… wouldn’t these applications be trapping excess moisture in the block/concrete thus accelerating the deterioration of the wall? Or is that just thinking too much into it?
I’m almost leaning more towards using the rock wool comfort board directly against the concrete,then studs and rockwool insulation. Then certianteed membrain vapor barrier. It seems the building science is leaning towards this approach from what I’ve been researching. The rockwool won’t mold or hold water. Only thing I would worry about is the wood which I think a treated bottom plate would probably be enough. But it’s all so situational because of climate. But I’m in Wisconsin where we have decently hot summers and really cold winters. I thought about Maby putting the tyvex house wrap between the comfort board and concrete with the letters facing the concrete so that it can wisk water to the ground and still breath. But idk. Everyone seems to have their own opinion on whats needed.
Back in the day we would use tarpaper.
i live in canada, we have a cold cellar on basement. and moisture build up during winter and summer. cold cellar has 2 6inches holes on both side. i want to to totally shut it down because of molds growth. my problem is the door between the cellar is moisture build on the door. im thinking to put a Eps or Polyiso foam board to prevent from condensation on the door if that will help to stop moisture grow. or ij the future need to close the 6inch holes and isulates the wall on cold cellar. please help me which best to do for now. planning to seal the door first for now if that one will work is better to use a polyiso board with foil on both side? pe go for eps?
Best is insulating room and filling in venting holes if you're not using it as cool room any more. Filling in the venting holes for now will help keep it warmer and should stop or reduce the condensation. You can insulate the door for short term fix.
Please use our forum if you have more questions.
Hi Shannon u have tried to ask this question on you forum but I got no answer I don't know why so now I will ask here I am putting the 1" thick foam board on my basement walls I get a lot of moisture in my basement witch get some mould I have cleaned it build up around the outside to help water run away so is it ok to put the foam board on even if I may still get a little water ? Sorry so long lol
I don't seem to see this question in the forum? Anyways , you need to fix the water problem before finishing the basement . This foam or any moisture barrier are not made to control water leaks they are made to re direct moisture from frost or condensation and very minor water infiltration. Please use the forum again if you have more questions as I hardly ever check these comments.
Message me if you still want to know the answer to this.
so the moisture from the living space wont make it past the overlaps? what about the moisture that comes thro the concrete wall will that tyvec still stop it? what about moisture that comes through the foam board? what would you do exactly if you were going to use the water gaurd that sits on the footer against the wall ?
In my area we use interior Vapour Barriers , those are what is supposed to stop moisture and air flow from inside the home from getting in the wall cavity . Moisture barriers against the inside of concrete wall are to direct moisture that comes through the concrete down to the floor so it does not soak your insulation. The 1" foam as a moisture barrier acts as the moisture barrier , some added insulation and keeps any warm moist air that gets through the vapour barrier from being able to condensate on the inside of the cold concrete wall. Very minimal amounts of that moisture may make it through ship lap edges. Taping those seams will help prevent that .
If you have a french drain then you dont want to seal the bottom of the moisture barrier at the floor, just let it allow moisture to get to the drain.
@@HouseImprovements so what about warm moist air that gets thro the vapour barrior with the tyvec or moisture barrior wont it get past the overlaps and condensate on the concrete wall?
If I use the 6 mil poly method, can I use faced R13 insulation in between the wood studs?
I'm not sure. In my area faced insulation can't be used.
Hi , which kind of barrier suppose to use in attic room before put the dry wall ?
You are likely talking about "air/vapour barrier". It is a clear poly and is sold specifically for air/vapour barriers. It is installed on the warm side of insulation and under the drywall.
could you use a spray glue to hold the house wrap ?
I dont think it would last.
I gutted a mobile, it's being remodeled, just starting, the frame itself, Do I have to remove the wall frames and put up a air barrier on the back wall, or just put in insulation, then air barrier on top.
A moisture barrier is only needed in a concrete basement.
Okay thanks because someone told me that an air vapor barrier has to cover the insulation, put plastic over it after the insulation has been put up.
Alright so I double painted the cinderblock then 3 MIL poly-layer, how bad did i screw up
I have an unfinished basement that have like a large piece of insulation wrapped with a plastic wrap on top of the insulation. Is that the proper way?
That is the default "builder bag insulation" that needs to be installed by the builder on an unfinished basement so the owner can move in. That is not the insulation technique you want in a finished basement project however.
So. Is it cheapest way to use plastic and than bat insulation for basement?
cheapest ,yes
Is there a way someone can ask you a question about a project I'm doing ? I'd like to get your opinion on a part of my project.
Absolutely , we have a free forum www.house-improvements.com/forums/
I really don’t understand how rigid foam or foam applications that are bassically air tight to the concrete are acceptable if the wall is supposed to breath… wouldn’t these applications be trapping excess moisture in the block/concrete thus accelerating the deterioration of the wall? Or is that just thinking too much into it?
I’m in Wisconsin, and I’m debating if I should use 1” foam board and seal it all up good with tape and spray foam, or let it breath using 1” rock wool comfort board. Then obviously framing and more insulation in the cavity. But to take it one more step I was even going to use the certianteed membrain vapor barrier to allow air flow between season changes.
Anyone got some concrete evidence to the best approach? ( pun intended ) :)
concrete is porous enough that moisture can move in and out of it from the exterior .
Do you still need a vapor barrier if you use any of these 3 shown in video?
Yes. The only exception would be that in some areas they may allow you to skip the interior air/vapour barrier if you use 2" rigid foam.