Couple things ... first go outside and determine how it looks on your foundation you may have holes that need patching in mortar joints. Check grading. Get gutters .
Folks, do not apply anything to youe old basement walls. The problem is OUTSIDE. Co trol any water run off, seal and cracks, dig, i dont care if you simply pour flex seal in against sidewalk/foundation cracks, as long as its outside. Trying to seal the wall from inside is like soaking a mineral rock in water until it disintegrates.
Hi, I made this mistake. First time home owner and friend suggested before I complete my basement paint it with drylok. I painted my walls with drylok. What should I do now. Waterproof the outside walls? Can I take this paint off?
@@ahmadgondal732in the summer start digging outside of your foundation. Can tar, blueskin the exterior. Or if there is alot of water, add a drainage system around the footing.
Thanks for the video this is almost exactly what my basement wall is like. Mine is more powdery but the same. I never heard the term efflorescence, thanks for the lesson.
This ruins your foundation wall by trapping moisture, what do you think that powdery substance is and why do you think its not a concern? If you saw rotting wood would you feel the same way.
@@petebusch9069 To be fair, Ive lived in house with poured concrete walls for 25 years, and not one person/tradie/expert has been able to explain the water or powdery substance or given me any solution. Your comment was a bit harsh. Im sure the OP is concerned about it, as have I been, just havn't found any solution/explanation, until now.
@@francruden331 I tell it like it is and just get to the point, no need in beating around the bush. Only solution is to keep the exterior of the foundation wall as dry as possible.
I understand. I’m the same and I appreciate that. I’m sure he was concerned that’s all. Just couldn’t find a solution. Like me. So you’re saying seal the outside of the wall and the inside?
I drylocked mine because of plants and trees growing in landscaping outside and it held up for ten years now at 70 I'm redoing it next time it needs it I won't care and will many being spoonfed in a nursing home.
Heya! I'm totally blind and was curious about the technique of water sealant just as a wonderment, you described what you were doing extremely well and are a good teacher/informer. It is a great gift. *smiles* I wanted to thank you very much and wish yougood health and prosperity all the days of your life. I wish the same to your audience too, may you all be happy in your lives and endeavors. Oh, and one more thing, can someone describe to me the pneumatic hammer? I never heard of such a device. It doesn't have a massive loud sound to it, how does it work and what does it look like? What are its use cases? Thanks a ton in advane and have a spectacular day!
A pneumatic hammer is basically a chisel attached to a drill-like tool. But instead of rotating like a drill, it vibrates in and out like a hammer, sort of. The vibrations chisel away the paint. Some people may also use them to scrape off thin set mortar when removing ceramic tile. I think he may have muted the audio some at that point, because they would be quite a bit louder than in this video.
You just got told what you want to hear and not what you need to hear and fell for it. This will ruin your foundation wall overtime, don't do it. Do your reasearch.
@@petebusch9069 Yes the outside needs to be sealed but most people cannot afford to dig up all the way around their house and have it sealed so what are they to do other than seal it from the inside and if the house is 50 yrs plus old and its been seeping and leaking for years the walls are already ruined from being wet inside and outside all the time.
Here's a tip, in Bermuda we use a bonding agent in a cement mix and plaster the wall or make it loose enough to paint it on like a cement wash... And it not only keeps water out but keeps water in and there we have a watertank and or even a swimming pool completely sealed for years ... *"Case closed"*
@@orlandogivens4779 sounds great for a swimming pool , however if it is water coming in from behind, it won't last more than a year, trust me I have tried
@@orlandogivens4779 Thumbs down on that misinformation mate. You're mixing concrete with render with plaster in one sentence. You can use all sorts of concrete additives, and if you are at the stage of concreting, then you may as well use a proper waterproofing additive. But this video is about existing wall with negative vapour pressure. Cement (powder) is not a vapour barrier and should never be used as such when sealing a wall... I'll stop right there...
Hi all I’m in upstate Ny I have used a Brand called Thoroseal 5 gallon bucket and a white liquid hardener looks like milk follow the directions goes on with a masonry Brush Mike a consistency like pancake batter then clean the wall first they spray on a little water then paint. I did this on my basement wall over 25 years ago and it held up. It must be done again. Starting to bubble again. I did it when I was 40. I’m now 66 I will do a 6 ft section at a time and I will put on two coats. The can is Orange and Black and white 5 gallon bucket of powder empty a bit at a time into another bucket add water and Acryl 60 Gallon container follow instructions. I wish I could did down on outside but I’m to old to remove my deck that covers half the back wall outside. Also try and run all your gutters as far away as possible to keep rain water from flowing down the wall. Good luck all.
I tried drylock with several coats but it sadly did not stop the Efflorescence from forming and thus it ended up bubbling and peeling in the same way as regular paint.
Start outside. Are your gutters overflowing? Are your down spouts dumping close to your foundation? Does rain water run away from your house or towards it? Do you have dirt beds close to the house? Stones or rocks? Water runs down thru clean top soil or mulch and into the foundation. This product traps moisture inside the block. Most basement and crawl space issues are solved by getting roof water away from the house to a point where it can't run back towards it. After you do that, let the walls dry and breath a few months before painting.
This does not work, never did and only exists because this is the product that sells because it tells people what they want to hear and not what they need to hear. This will trap moisture in your foundation wall and deteriorate it overtime. You have to control the water on the other side of the wall using gutters, ground slope, and interior drain tile if needed.
So now the moisture can damage the wall from just the inside of the block where you can't see it. Since it's trapped inside without air, mold can develop. Nothing like starting from the middle of the job. Should show and explain where the water or moisture is coming from. Gutters and downspouts clear and correct? All rainwater running away from the house?
Hire a stucco mason , that is the only way , you could get away with it if you want to do it yourself, use a product called poly bond , you can trowel it on as evenly as you can , stuff dries pretty slow so it is good for a diy'er at the very end or when it starts to dry , take a damp sponge and go over it in a circular motion, it will look nice with a light sand finish 👍
wont the moisture just sit in the bricks themselves and increase the rate of the day of the bricks once the vapor barrier has been applied? That's like locking the moisture inside the bricks with no where to evaporate.
I resorted to placing concrete around compromised spots (eroded areas/low grade soil), and I must say, it stopped the water from seeping in my basement!
No. Water will still find its way under the walkway and migrate towards the house. Putting concrete over an area just doesn’t dry the soil underneath it forever. Install drainage system around the perimeter that’ll carry surface water away from the house instead of a walkway. For any exterior cracks you can see, dig down to the bottom of it, tar the crap out of it and apply thick mil plastic over tar. Don’t forget to address the interior. Bottom line is fix the issue.
The problem with drylock is that, this isnt a permanent fix. It could take months or a few years, before youll have to repeat this process. (Depending on how severe the issue/moisture is in your basement) My wife and i live in the home she grew up in, when her parents owned it they had no issues with moisture but they always had a good dehumidifier. They moved and rented it out before we bought it, the tenants somehow broke the dehumidifier so when we moved in i had to drylock the walls..... It lasted maybe 2-3 years before having to drylock again, this time i put a dehumidifier and havent had to bother the walls in 6 years. I live in ohio and would usually run it when the snow starts to melt in late march early april, up until about october or when its humid and raining. Weve decided after this winter to install central air, ive been told by neighbors that it eliminated whatever issues they had with moisture. Hopefully this helps someone our home is small basement included, but plenty space for just us, maybe this wont work for bigger homes.
Don't kid yourself by thinking that water proofing the inside of the wall will solve this problem. If you own the home, than dig the 4 foot trench along the wall on the outside, clean and seal the foundation wall properly. You see, if you just seal the inside wall and not stop the moisture from coming in, getting into and through the brick, the brick will slowly degrade and go to powder. And powder foundation are not the strong I hear!
This is not good advice. You should not seal your cellar walls from the inside. It will trap the water in the walls and you risk damaging the walls and get problems with mold and fungus. Use the opposite kind of paint, something that lets the walls "breathe". Use a dehumidifier and try to keep the cellar warm. Also avoid mounting any organic material like wood to the walls (or floor).
Don't waste your money on painting the inside with moisture coming in, spend your money on the reason for it. I had a home from 1928 and after decades of painting it and wasting my money we installed inside pipe and pump and now its dry...
@@minihoneybee Yes, It should have been done decades ago because over time your Cement blocks will deteriorate. Some of the blocks you could put a screw drive into them. Dig down next to the footer and install some stones and lay the pipe on top of them. Don't use the gutter system it doesn't work, because they lay it on top of the footer.
@@minihoneybee You need to dig about 12" from the wall then down to the bottom of the footer. Dont dig below the footer just next to it. Lay a couple inches of stones and then the pipe on top followed by stones bringing them to the top of the footer. Ck this video. . Basement Waterproofing - Do's and Don'ts - RUclips
Absolutely wrong you cannot put a water proof coating on the interior wall. It traps water inside the wall which causes the lime to leach out, deteriorating the concrete. You already have a deteriorating wall that has lost a lot of lime. Now you have made it 10 times worse. You are causing irreversible damage to your foundation. I have been in the waterproofing industry ( specializing in remedial waterproofing) for 45 years. I have seen the damage this will cause. If left as us it will eventually cause structural damage.
Hello, I just bought a house and plan on getting all the sealant off the concrete walls, it's an old house (100 yrs) and the sealant looks similar but not as bad as the beginning of this video. The home inspector advised me to take it off and let the wall breathe. No signs of visible water seepage, just spongy wetness. House is on top of a hill like structure, and water all moves away from foundation. Should I just leave my walls bare ? Would that keep the wall in good shape if it can breathe over time ?
@@cheyrawr14ify very best case scenario us leave them bare. But I understand that is not aesthetically pleasing.. My advise us to research “ vapor permeable coatings “ they are significantly more expensive than conventional paints but will last a lot longer and allow the wall to breath and not cause damage.
Hi, genecarden, I saw you have life knowledge about waterproofing, is there a way we get in touch so I can send you photos for some suggestions? In short, house is new, 20 years old, no one lived in it, it has basement and 2 floors above but basement has efloresscence built up on north side where neighbours roof is falling down, is only god long term solution to dig up trench and how to do it dimensions and how deep? Thank you ahead
It is poured reinforced concrete, paint is some light paint if I am not mistaken, will attach pictures, thanks for help, after 3 hours, you had most sensible thinking of all :) this is house we eant to buy btw, not curently owning so I just eant ro know if it is fixable So, clean pictures is south side and moist are north
Ya don’t seal from the inside of the basement, you initially look to displace the ground water that accumulates against the exterior of the basement wall and pad, via water moving drainage tiles and sump pumps, such that water does permeate the basement walls and flood you inside spaces. Once the water is in the concrete walls, anything you attempt to do from an inside the basement perspective, is a waste of money and time… doing it right from the initial build stage is the only way to do this, other wise you are stuck w/ an ongoing problem wherein those that sell these “lipstick on a pig” products/solution, are the ultimate winners who get your money and walk away
This traps moisture in the maonry and will deteriorate it overtime and does nothing to solve the problem. The trick is to keep the other side of the foundation as dry as you reasonably can, if that's not enough then you will have to install an interior drain tile system to control the water that is there. No cheap solutions for this, stop listening to people that only tell you what you WANT to hear and start listening to people that tell you what you need to hear. This video will cause people to do this and then spend huge money finishing their basement only to have mold in a couple years and then get the joy of ripping it all out and doing it right. Please take this video down, if you don't it proves you only do this for money and have no desire to actually help people and are no different then the other opportunists that make this world a horrible place to live. DO THE RIGHT THING.
Couple things ... first go outside and determine how it looks on your foundation you may have holes that need patching in mortar joints. Check grading. Get gutters .
What if most of the foundation is under ground then what?
@@robertfrederick-t2f Yeh, like mine.
Folks, do not apply anything to youe old basement walls. The problem is OUTSIDE. Co trol any water run off, seal and cracks, dig, i dont care if you simply pour flex seal in against sidewalk/foundation cracks, as long as its outside. Trying to seal the wall from inside is like soaking a mineral rock in water until it disintegrates.
100 percent, This guy's giving out bad advice and this problem will definitely persist in the near future.
Thank your, this cannot be said enough. This guy is right, listen to him.
Hi, I made this mistake. First time home owner and friend suggested before I complete my basement paint it with drylok.
I painted my walls with drylok. What should I do now. Waterproof the outside walls? Can I take this paint off?
@@ahmadgondal732in the summer start digging outside of your foundation. Can tar, blueskin the exterior. Or if there is alot of water, add a drainage system around the footing.
The other side of my wall is 2 levels below ground... What on earth do I do?
Thanks for the video this is almost exactly what my basement wall is like. Mine is more powdery but the same. I never heard the term efflorescence, thanks for the lesson.
Efflorescence is the Lime in the block. It’s the glue of the block.
This ruins your foundation wall by trapping moisture, what do you think that powdery substance is and why do you think its not a concern? If you saw rotting wood would you feel the same way.
@@petebusch9069 To be fair, Ive lived in house with poured concrete walls for 25 years, and not one person/tradie/expert has been able to explain the water or powdery substance or given me any solution. Your comment was a bit harsh. Im sure the OP is concerned about it, as have I been, just havn't found any solution/explanation, until now.
@@francruden331 I tell it like it is and just get to the point, no need in beating around the bush. Only solution is to keep the exterior of the foundation wall as dry as possible.
I understand. I’m the same and I appreciate that. I’m sure he was concerned that’s all. Just couldn’t find a solution. Like me. So you’re saying seal the outside of the wall and the inside?
I drylocked mine because of plants and trees growing in landscaping outside and it held up for ten years now at 70 I'm redoing it next time it needs it I won't care and will many being spoonfed in a nursing home.
a year down, how's it holding up? I want to do the same to my walls.
Heya! I'm totally blind and was curious about the technique of water sealant just as a wonderment, you described what you were doing extremely well and are a good teacher/informer. It is a great gift. *smiles* I wanted to thank you very much and wish yougood health and prosperity all the days of your life. I wish the same to your audience too, may you all be happy in your lives and endeavors. Oh, and one more thing, can someone describe to me the pneumatic hammer? I never heard of such a device. It doesn't have a massive loud sound to it, how does it work and what does it look like? What are its use cases? Thanks a ton in advane and have a spectacular day!
A pneumatic hammer is basically a chisel attached to a drill-like tool. But instead of rotating like a drill, it vibrates in and out like a hammer, sort of. The vibrations chisel away the paint. Some people may also use them to scrape off thin set mortar when removing ceramic tile. I think he may have muted the audio some at that point, because they would be quite a bit louder than in this video.
Very good explanation. It’s simple and easy to understand. Thanks
You just got told what you want to hear and not what you need to hear and fell for it. This will ruin your foundation wall overtime, don't do it. Do your reasearch.
@@petebusch9069 Yes the outside needs to be sealed but most people cannot afford to dig up all the way around their house and have it sealed so what are they to do other than seal it from the inside and if the house is 50 yrs plus old and its been seeping and leaking for years the walls are already ruined from being wet inside and outside all the time.
No paint fixes water issues. Get your checkbook out. That is what will fix water issues. BIG $$
Interesting, Did the dry lock penetrate the wall any? How is the job holding up to date?
Isn't all of the water just going to be forced to where the old paint is still on the wall, resulting in the same issue with the paint bubbling off?
Here's a tip, in Bermuda we use a bonding agent in a cement mix and plaster the wall or make it loose enough to paint it on like a cement wash...
And it not only keeps water out but keeps water in and there we have a watertank and or even a swimming pool completely sealed for years ...
*"Case closed"*
@@orlandogivens4779 what is the name of the bonding agent? I need more info please :D
@@orlandogivens4779 sounds great for a swimming pool , however if it is water coming in from behind, it won't last more than a year, trust me I have tried
@@orlandogivens4779 Thumbs down on that misinformation mate. You're mixing concrete with render with plaster in one sentence. You can use all sorts of concrete additives, and if you are at the stage of concreting, then you may as well use a proper waterproofing additive. But this video is about existing wall with negative vapour pressure. Cement (powder) is not a vapour barrier and should never be used as such when sealing a wall... I'll stop right there...
Hi all I’m in upstate Ny I have used a Brand called Thoroseal 5 gallon bucket and a white liquid hardener looks like milk follow the directions goes on with a masonry Brush Mike a consistency like pancake batter then clean the wall first they spray on a little water then paint. I did this on my basement wall over 25 years ago and it held up.
It must be done again. Starting to bubble again. I did it when I was 40. I’m now 66 I will do a 6 ft section at a time and I will put on two coats. The can is Orange and Black and white 5 gallon bucket of powder empty a bit at a time into another bucket add water and Acryl 60 Gallon container follow instructions.
I wish I could did down on outside but I’m to old to remove my deck that covers half the back wall outside. Also try and run all your gutters as far away as possible to keep rain water from flowing down the wall.
Good luck all.
I tried drylock with several coats but it sadly did not stop the Efflorescence from forming and thus it ended up bubbling and peeling in the same way as regular paint.
Start outside. Are your gutters overflowing? Are your down spouts dumping close to your foundation? Does rain water run away from your house or towards it? Do you have dirt beds close to the house? Stones or rocks? Water runs down thru clean top soil or mulch and into the foundation. This product traps moisture inside the block. Most basement and crawl space issues are solved by getting roof water away from the house to a point where it can't run back towards it. After you do that, let the walls dry and breath a few months before painting.
@@joeshmoe7789 Thank you!
This does not work, never did and only exists because this is the product that sells because it tells people what they want to hear and not what they need to hear. This will trap moisture in your foundation wall and deteriorate it overtime. You have to control the water on the other side of the wall using gutters, ground slope, and interior drain tile if needed.
The drylock instructions recommend waiting for the first coat to dry before a second coat.
How long does it take for such a wall to dry after repair?
So now the moisture can damage the wall from just the inside of the block where you can't see it. Since it's trapped inside without air, mold can develop.
Nothing like starting from the middle of the job. Should show and explain where the water or moisture is coming from. Gutters and downspouts clear and correct? All rainwater running away from the house?
Just trapping moisture in the wall, use radonseal plus and then paint with elastometric masonry paint
Thx
How do you make it smooth? The wall still looks bumpy
Hire a stucco mason , that is the only way , you could get away with it if you want to do it yourself, use a product called poly bond , you can trowel it on as evenly as you can , stuff dries pretty slow so it is good for a diy'er at the very end or when it starts to dry , take a damp sponge and go over it in a circular motion, it will look nice with a light sand finish 👍
Good job, how long did the first coat last before scraping it off. Thanks Houli
Not long at all, this is not a solution and will trap moisture causing deterioration.
I use dry lock for my basement it didn’t work I put 2 coats still is water leaking
Of course it is. You can’t just paint over your water issues lol. U need drains and a permanently fix.
OMG, this was so helpful, and I'll be able to do it myself.
Thank you
can you put this on over water seeping in the wall in places?
can i use a sprayer to apply paint?
wont the moisture just sit in the bricks themselves and increase the rate of the day of the bricks once the vapor barrier has been applied? That's like locking the moisture inside the bricks with no where to evaporate.
yep. this will just cause the foundation to slowly crumble.
Would pouring a concrete walkway around the house help prevent water from hitting the wall from the outside?
I resorted to placing concrete around compromised spots (eroded areas/low grade soil), and I must say, it stopped the water from seeping in my basement!
Definitely, 3 feet and a good slope away from the foundation would do a lot.
No. Water will still find its way under the walkway and migrate towards the house. Putting concrete over an area just doesn’t dry the soil underneath it forever. Install drainage system around the perimeter that’ll carry surface water away from the house instead of a walkway. For any exterior cracks you can see, dig down to the bottom of it, tar the crap out of it and apply thick mil plastic over tar. Don’t forget to address the interior. Bottom line is fix the issue.
@@Josh-km9vc Concrete walkway will work if pitched away from the house and the grounds around it continue downward.
So what do we do about the Spaulding concrete? Plage over it then paint?
You keep it dry by controling the water outside.
Thanks for sharing this video
Dry lock paint sealer can’t be applied over other paint.
To scrape the paint off easy use a ice chopper it's a giant putty knife
Anyone try Ardex feather finish or Ardex MRF on a concrete wall?
Great advice.. Sound like The Lock Picking Lawyer.. LOL
Thank You, looks great.
did you clean the concrete b4 applying the dryloc? and how has it held up since 5 months ago?
It won't last. He needed to do much more prep than what he did.
The problem with drylock is that, this isnt a permanent fix.
It could take months or a few years, before youll have to repeat this process. (Depending on how severe the issue/moisture is in your basement)
My wife and i live in the home she grew up in, when her parents owned it they had no issues with moisture but they always had a good dehumidifier.
They moved and rented it out before we bought it, the tenants somehow broke the dehumidifier so when we moved in i had to drylock the walls.....
It lasted maybe 2-3 years before having to drylock again, this time i put a dehumidifier and havent had to bother the walls in 6 years.
I live in ohio and would usually run it when the snow starts to melt in late march early april, up until about october or when its humid and raining.
Weve decided after this winter to install central air, ive been told by neighbors that it eliminated whatever issues they had with moisture.
Hopefully this helps someone our home is small basement included, but plenty space for just us, maybe this wont work for bigger homes.
Use a masonry roller next time and a masonry brush
2 years later how about an update?
Please am in Ghana where can I get this type of waterproof paints to buy and the price
You will probably have to order it if you don't have a home Depot like business
Cost 185 USD
That used this on the outside walls in Florida
Thank you
Don't kid yourself by thinking that water proofing the inside of the wall will solve this problem.
If you own the home, than dig the 4 foot trench along the wall on the outside, clean and seal the foundation wall properly.
You see, if you just seal the inside wall and not stop the moisture from coming in, getting into and through the brick, the brick will slowly degrade and go to powder. And powder foundation are not the strong I hear!
Coming From experience, work on the outside first around the foundation. Then work on the inside.
this will last a few months and then problem will back for sure
Why didn’t you mention muriatic acid. Maybe I missed it
Dont paint basement walls! Especially on older homes. It's only going to trap in that water destroying your basement walls/foundation faster.
Hydrolic cement works best.. Dryloc wears off.
1yr update?
Didn’t work for my wall
This is not good advice. You should not seal your cellar walls from the inside. It will trap the water in the walls and you risk damaging the walls and get problems with mold and fungus. Use the opposite kind of paint, something that lets the walls "breathe". Use a dehumidifier and try to keep the cellar warm. Also avoid mounting any organic material like wood to the walls (or floor).
Seal from the outside for a permanent fix.
Don't waste your money on painting the inside with moisture coming in, spend your money on the reason for it. I had a home from 1928 and after decades of painting it and wasting my money we installed
inside pipe and pump and now its dry...
Do you need dig into foundation when installing the pipe and pump?
@@minihoneybee Yes, It should have been done decades ago because over time your Cement blocks will deteriorate. Some of the blocks you could put a screw drive into them. Dig down next to the footer and install some stones and lay the pipe on top of them. Don't use the gutter system it doesn't work, because they lay it on top of the footer.
@@minihoneybee You need to dig about 12" from the wall then down to the bottom of the footer. Dont dig below the footer just next to it. Lay a couple inches of stones and then the pipe on top followed by stones bringing them to the top of the footer.
Ck this video. . Basement Waterproofing - Do's and Don'ts - RUclips
Absolutely wrong you cannot put a water proof coating on the interior wall. It traps water inside the wall which causes the lime to leach out, deteriorating the concrete. You already have a deteriorating wall that has lost a lot of lime. Now you have made it 10 times worse.
You are causing irreversible damage to your foundation.
I have been in the waterproofing industry ( specializing in remedial waterproofing) for 45 years. I have seen the damage this will cause. If left as us it will eventually cause structural damage.
Hello, I just bought a house and plan on getting all the sealant off the concrete walls, it's an old house (100 yrs) and the sealant looks similar but not as bad as the beginning of this video. The home inspector advised me to take it off and let the wall breathe. No signs of visible water seepage, just spongy wetness. House is on top of a hill like structure, and water all moves away from foundation. Should I just leave my walls bare ? Would that keep the wall in good shape if it can breathe over time ?
@@cheyrawr14ify very best case scenario us leave them bare. But I understand that is not aesthetically pleasing.. My advise us to research “ vapor permeable coatings “ they are significantly more expensive than conventional paints but will last a lot longer and allow the wall to breath and not cause damage.
Hi, genecarden, I saw you have life knowledge about waterproofing, is there a way we get in touch so I can send you photos for some suggestions? In short, house is new, 20 years old, no one lived in it, it has basement and 2 floors above but basement has efloresscence built up on north side where neighbours roof is falling down, is only god long term solution to dig up trench and how to do it dimensions and how deep? Thank you ahead
@@ivangeneralic8053 are the basement walls poured concrete?
Are they relatively clean( unpainted)?
It is poured reinforced concrete, paint is some light paint if I am not mistaken, will attach pictures, thanks for help, after 3 hours, you had most sensible thinking of all :) this is house we eant to buy btw, not curently owning so I just eant ro know if it is fixable
So, clean pictures is south side and moist are north
Ya don’t seal from the inside of the basement, you initially look to displace the ground water that accumulates against the exterior of the basement wall and pad, via water moving drainage tiles and sump pumps, such that water does permeate the basement walls and flood you inside spaces. Once the water is in the concrete walls, anything you attempt to do from an inside the basement perspective, is a waste of money and time… doing it right from the initial build stage is the only way to do this, other wise you are stuck w/ an ongoing problem wherein those that sell these “lipstick on a pig” products/solution, are the ultimate winners who get your money and walk away
Hire some Mexicans to dig. $2000 and grind all joints and seal it up. Parge walls with cement, tar it all then plastic. Good as new.
This traps moisture in the maonry and will deteriorate it overtime and does nothing to solve the problem. The trick is to keep the other side of the foundation as dry as you reasonably can, if that's not enough then you will have to install an interior drain tile system to control the water that is there. No cheap solutions for this, stop listening to people that only tell you what you WANT to hear and start listening to people that tell you what you need to hear. This video will cause people to do this and then spend huge money finishing their basement only to have mold in a couple years and then get the joy of ripping it all out and doing it right. Please take this video down, if you don't it proves you only do this for money and have no desire to actually help people and are no different then the other opportunists that make this world a horrible place to live. DO THE RIGHT THING.
Please show us people the right way to do something. Youʻre showing somerhing itʻs almost like youre lieing to yourself
DO NOT USE DRYLOCK JUST CAUSES MORE DAMAGE OVER TIME USE RAPIDSET WATERPROOFING MORTAR!!