I did this and it's leaking again...20 years later. If I strip it, re-do it and get another twenty years, the house will be 75 years old. That's good enough for me.
The have dry lock extra now with even longer health. Look this stuff works and every master mason knows about this. If you have serious leaks then no paint will work but your average leaky basement can be sealed up with a little portland/morter mix then paint it with drylock after 30 day cure.
@@xaviermccloud4586 What about the water leaking in behind the sealed in area, where do you think all that moisture goes? The only real solution is to seal the exterior area by digging away the dirt around the leaking area, and sealing the entire area with a petroleum based sealant, and commercial grade plastic. If you don't conquer the beast outside, you'll never deal with the water inside t will eventually leak again.
Using a regular paint brush because it latex based just like paint. This stuff won't stop any water coming through wall. Fix you outside issue first. Add draining around foundation if possible. Slope grade away from foundation. If you have major leaks, the outside needs to be dealt with before trying any "waterproofer". Just think about a flood, nothing can stop that. The force of water is unstoppable. It needs to be redirected. Just my 2 cents
This is a temporary fix. I've done it and I still have issues. The reason? All foundations settle over time and develop cracks. Drylok is NOT going to stop the forces that create these cracks. No paint or patch can. Your first agenda should be to address the drainage issues you may have on the outside of your home. Clogged gutters, improper grading, leaking gutter joints, ect. Stop the water from running down the outside of your foundation and you have 75% of the battle beat. Drylock is good for sealing basements with no current breach and will seal the walls from moisture coming from the walls, but not from a crack. Cracks only get bigger over time and in an older house will compound the problem. Manage the water from the outside first!
Thats what I am thinking. I want to expose my foundation, blue skin it with membrane, and put in drainage pipe at the bottom of the foundation and either tie it into the city sewer or run out the back yard. Next I want to make sure my ground grades away from the house. Its kind of running into the house now.
I discovered that one must first search for deeper causes of wetness in basement and cracks on the walls.......there may be cracks....what caused the cracks??? then right there and then one MUST get a Civil-Structural ENgineer to asses the structure to ascertain that pressures on the structure are not pushing-stressing walls thereby causing cracks on walls or foundation.....wetness issues to resolve permanently AND NOT JUST for a season or to just make the walls look pretty are challenging to address.....
Exactly to don't put a band aid on the end of a water hose and think it will stop the water, you have to block out the water from the source....the exterior of the wall.
Good product, If you have water coming through the basement wall, BEFORE applying this on the inside, fix the root cause. Check the mortar and any problem outside first and fix them. If there is water coming from the outside, and you seal the inside, the water will just go down the wall until it finds an opening and still come in. You wall will also be weakened in the process. That said, this product is great IF you fix the problem causing the leak, first.
Can't get to foundation on outside. Cement drive is covering it. Basement is seeping through in small spot only. I have no alternative, would you recommend doing video instructions anyway? thanks
Water could be coming from another section, not only where water is coming in. Downspout on corner of house, or maybe water is running along concrete slab to a crack or joint, or between the concrete and exterior wall of house. Make sure all joints between concrete slabs are sealed. Make sure grading is sloping away from house. Is there a sump pump near the leak? That means all the water will run towards that direction. Or I'd sump pump is on opposite side of basement that area will have the highest level of water before it reaches the sump pump. Could put in another sump pump but that's a lot of work. I had chipmunks that dug tunnles all along the foundation around the house. I had no choice but to remove concrete slab for patio and small section at a time I dug down 5' acid etched exterior wall. Power washed it. Rolled and brushed tar on exterior cinderblock, below grade to few inches above grade, then place sheet of ice/water roofing paper for %100 extra protection. As I back-filled I used a 5'x6"X6" Post to tamper fill as hard as possible. Then graded topsoil so rainwater flowed away from house. Then I applied Dry-Lok. The stuff that also prevents radon entering. 😂 Also, My pitbull sat next to me while digging out along foundation as she knew sooner or later a chipmunk would be showing itself. That year I killed over 20 chipmunks. This was 15yrs ago. Basement bone dry. Though it's backbreaking work, doing it right the first time is best solution. I got an estimate that was about $10,000. Went through 3 shovels a pickaxe and built a housing frame out of lumber that I could work inside to protect me from a cave in. I only dug out 5' sections at a time so there wouldn't be any stress to cause foundation concerns along the wall.
One of the closets was added in a couple of years ago I guess they use concrete I noticed every winter the concrete sweats water it's been painted over when I moved in do I still need to remove the paint from the concrete or can I just paint over it with the Drylok cuz I've noticed it started growing a little mold I want to get to fix it before it gets out of control
Same reason I'm on here looking for solutions. I discovered the exact same after I moved in my apartment as well. I wish someone would have responded to this!
Zinnser Watertite is from what I know to be the original product, it’s been around for almost twenty years, this seems to be a similar or the same product?
I have a efflorescenceI problem not water damage. Agree with other comments that recommend addressing it from the outside. I followed the procedure he outlined, even applied two applications of Muriatic Acid. Applied three coats of dry lock then painted it brown with a basement brick paint. Less than a month later, the efflorescence came back.
Water on the outside of the foil is condensation. Water on the inside of the foil is seepage through the concrete or masonry. Sometimes, you'll have both.
@@sinenkoalexander Exactly, you’d want to use a sealant and cover the wall that will be in contact with the ground with plastic sheeting. Not every time, but most of the time, it’s not a good idea to try to stop a leak from the interior wall. The water will end up coming through another area or cause more damage.
Flex Seal. Kinda hard to paint over but if you are remodeling then don't worry, a wall will go over it. Flex Seal the corners and then use Drylok on the slab. At least 3 coats.
Sometimes the best solution is a sump pump if water is coming in from under the floor and not through the walls. Sometimes it's best for homeowners to call an exprt to their home instead of watching a video like this and thinking all of this is so easy. Drylock is an excellent product but the exterior solutions have to be figured out correctly and done right.
I have water seeping into my finished basement from outside. It stopped for a few months when sealed with regular acrylic. I'm about to go outside and use this stuff as it started seeping in again. These comments are not making me feel confident. Gotta do something though. Rain tomorrow
I have a wet basement wall and have had contractors apply Drylok twice. Still wet! Also made sure that the outside is sloping away from the house. Still wet!
This method doesn’t work no matter what product you use. Sealing the inside just makes the water sit inside the block, concrete or brick until it finds the next point of least resistance. You have to fix the drainage outside. Even better, fix the drainage outside and seal the outside so the water never gets in your block.
@@chaddad1236 Eh, it works fine for small issues. No outside issues but I just have two spots that like to leak a bit when it rains. This easily fixed the issue. But if you’re dealing with active water intrusion, not seepage, this is not going to work of course.
my crawl space is making me crazy, i do not know how to grade the dirt outside. installed sump pump, do not know if they did it right, last rain can see water seeping in south wall. Who do i call,,, to stop this mess? had another plastic barrier put down, not sure he did that right, half a crawl space he ran it halfway up the foundation, ohter half not even completely over footer,, know i need new french drain on south side, found the old one, it is mostly plugged up with dirt, but was still draining and coming around the corner to the house and running water right in the crawl space door. extended that pipe, thought that would fix that.. but nope,, so now have pulled dirt Away from house, and getting a better fitting crawl space door, I need help guys
The only solution is repair from the outside . Dig out to 12-18 below wall intersection with foundation use commercial waterproofing materiel "bituthene 3000 membrane or tremproof 60 trowel on install French drain and sump pump if necessary.
If you do not protect the wall from the outside, painting and sealing from the inside alone doesn't stop the moisture from getting through, anyone who has dealt with this before understands this simple logic. One has to dig from the outside, and seal the exterior walls. REALLY DRYLOK!!
Suckers always looking for a quickfix. This is the kinda crap you pull when you need to dump a house. Let the next poor bastard deal with the fallout. ;-)
If you have a high water table nothing is going to stop hydrostatic pressure from pushing water thru your foundation. Sealing it up without doing something about the water behind the wall is asking for trouble.
this usually only works for homes that are fairly new and that the basement floor is not that deep underground. My two cents, older homes have outside problems with the worst being to ding up around the sides of your basement walls " on the outside side," remortar old bricks and blocks, apply tar and other water proofing steps. lot of work, not cheap.
I am in the processing of starting the project you describe ( having alot of soaking wet blocks and seepage in my basement ) Ive been quoted about 4k to dig up the affected areas my question is is it worth doing without installing a drain system? Like just digging repairing any cracks etc with hydraulic cement applying a liquid rubber and a membrane then backfilling without a drain tile?
@MaDGriZz78 hmm,,, I've already started digging on mine.. looks like I'll be going about 3ft deep and 20ft to fix the area thats having problems.. I will go ahead and install a drain to move the water away from the area..
Awesome Thanks for educating the community and appreciate your volunteer-ship Please keep posting some more videos. I like it and Love it and you clearly explain Thanks to Team in posting this video.
I used this on my basement but where there was water damage on the wall the dry lock turned orangeish. How do I hide the orange stain? I’ve used multiple coats but keeps coming through
It keeps turning orange because water keeps getting through. You have to find out where the water source is coming in from the outside, then divert it away from your house. Also seal up anywhere you can on the exterior. THEN do interior stuff.
@@powerofknowledge7771 right the only way to water proof a basement is to dig around the foundation and poor a concrete wall around it, then coat that, install exterior drainage system out side, coat the inside, then install emergency interior drain system. The only way if not your taking a risk
The best way to prevent water in your house is fixing from the outside.the problem comes from the exterior so there's no need to waste money in the inside.doing exterior waterproofing will prevent this problems.the process for exterior waterproofing is digging the walls all the way to the footing,then patch all the crack and apply rubber membrane to all the wall.then put in the j drain system with a sump pump. Fill it back with 75% of gravel.then fill the rest will dirt..any questions feel free to ask
@@BecomingB More than likely your basement slab is resting on your footing. Measure from the bottom of a basement window to the slab and that's the distance + 4" until footing on exterior. Sorry if this information comes too late lol
So what is a good way to deal with efflorescence? Would vinegar and water with a good brush work? Have you heard of PROSOCO's Sure Klean Light Duty Concrete Cleaner? Would this be a better way? Thanks!
Look on the outside of your house for the water source. Find out where it's coming in and then divert the water away, via sloping it away and/or sealing up the exterior with mortar, concrete, or caulk (depending on the application). I would never use this Drylock paint product because it traps moisture in the masonry and causes it to deteriorate over time. Look into using Limewash as it will give you a paint-like finish, last longer, and will allow your masonry to breath (without trapping moisture).
I doubt anyone followed his instructions exactly. Doesn't matter, I just replay over and over to hear his voice. Daddy issues? Maybe..... ahhhh. But I really do have some seepage issues.
This product will not fix the issue which is water inside the cement blocks. To do it properly you need get the water out of the block wall and divert it to a sump pit by means of a french drain. Leaving the water inside your wall will cause further damage. This ad is a complete joke!
As far as I know (and that's 5 duplex high and 20 years long), the cement gets better when moist or wet. Don't forget that concrete cement needs to be flooded under water for 21 days. No damage.
@@solapowsj25 "cinder" blocks are not the same as concrete. They are cheaper alternative to a concrete foundation and not nearly as good in my opinion. They are made up of different ingredients than concrete and are much more porous and over time constant contact with moisture will cause cinder blocks to deteriorate.
This info-advertisement is about as good as the old cigarettes “physician tested and approved” ads. Another comment here got it spot on about the water staying in the brick/concrete and degrading the structure. But no one cares. They just want to be able to flip it and get their money.
No longer will the water and the spiders rule the basement realm. With these magic tools we shall regain 1000ft^2 of living space for the kingdom! Thank you, great one, for bring your knowledge to the land!
Drylook DOES NOT WORK...I TRYED it for 2 days...now I have to remove it...I am a female and is harder for us than a man...need to find something better...
You casually say use Drylock Etch or muriatic acid. Muriatic acid is not casual. The fumes from muriatic acid can rust steel and dissolve the mucus linings of your windpipe and lungs. Do not use without a respirator. In fact, Do not use indoors
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
I did this and it's leaking again...20 years later. If I strip it, re-do it and get another twenty years, the house will be 75 years old. That's good enough for me.
20 YEARS!!! THAT'S GREAT!
What did you do to strip it?
The have dry lock extra now with even longer health. Look this stuff works and every master mason knows about this. If you have serious leaks then no paint will work but your average leaky basement can be sealed up with a little portland/morter mix then paint it with drylock after 30 day cure.
That's why I used Ames Blumax on the cement and Drylok over it. I will never need to worry about leaks in my basement until after I die.
@@xaviermccloud4586 What about the water leaking in behind the sealed in area, where do you think all that moisture goes? The only real solution is to seal the exterior area by digging away the dirt around the leaking area, and sealing the entire area with a petroleum based sealant, and commercial grade plastic. If you don't conquer the beast outside, you'll never deal with the water inside t will eventually leak again.
Using a regular paint brush because it latex based just like paint. This stuff won't stop any water coming through wall. Fix you outside issue first. Add draining around foundation if possible. Slope grade away from foundation. If you have major leaks, the outside needs to be dealt with before trying any "waterproofer". Just think about a flood, nothing can stop that. The force of water is unstoppable. It needs to be redirected. Just my 2 cents
This is a temporary fix. I've done it and I still have issues. The reason? All foundations settle over time and develop cracks. Drylok is NOT going to stop the forces that create these cracks. No paint or patch can. Your first agenda should be to address the drainage issues you may have on the outside of your home. Clogged gutters, improper grading, leaking gutter joints, ect. Stop the water from running down the outside of your foundation and you have 75% of the battle beat. Drylock is good for sealing basements with no current breach and will seal the walls from moisture coming from the walls, but not from a crack. Cracks only get bigger over time and in an older house will compound the problem. Manage the water from the outside first!
Agreed...but that is exactly what this guy said to do in the video.
Thanks for the tip 👍
I have a same problem water come in basement from outside.how to slice this problem permanently?
Thats what I am thinking. I want to expose my foundation, blue skin it with membrane, and put in drainage pipe at the bottom of the foundation and either tie it into the city sewer or run out the back yard. Next I want to make sure my ground grades away from the house. Its kind of running into the house now.
Loop
Man this is a top notch video 😅 people these days need to take notes
Better tips than the UGL site
I discovered that one must first search for deeper causes of wetness in basement and cracks on the walls.......there may be cracks....what caused the cracks??? then right there and then one MUST get a Civil-Structural ENgineer to asses the structure to ascertain that pressures on the structure are not pushing-stressing walls thereby causing cracks on walls or foundation.....wetness issues to resolve permanently AND NOT JUST for a season or to just make the walls look pretty are challenging to address.....
Exactly to don't put a band aid on the end of a water hose and think it will stop the water, you have to block out the water from the source....the exterior of the wall.
Judging from the comments this video is false advertisement ... Thanks for helping me keep my money in my pocket
I'm two years late 🏃💨, but one does judge 👨⚖️based on professional advice. Comments are merely experiences, often that of failures.
Good luck🍀🍀.
Good product, If you have water coming through the basement wall, BEFORE applying this on the inside, fix the root cause. Check the mortar and any problem outside first and fix them. If there is water coming from the outside, and you seal the inside, the water will just go down the wall until it finds an opening and still come in. You wall will also be weakened in the process. That said, this product is great IF you fix the problem causing the leak, first.
If you fix the problem causing the leak first, you won't need this product.
Can't get to foundation on outside. Cement drive is covering it. Basement is seeping through in small spot only. I have no alternative, would you recommend doing video instructions anyway? thanks
Water could be coming from another section, not only where water is coming in. Downspout on corner of house, or maybe water is running along concrete slab to a crack or joint, or between the concrete and exterior wall of house. Make sure all joints between concrete slabs are sealed. Make sure grading is sloping away from house.
Is there a sump pump near the leak? That means all the water will run towards that direction. Or I'd sump pump is on opposite side of basement that area will have the highest level of water before it reaches the sump pump. Could put in another sump pump but that's a lot of work.
I had chipmunks that dug tunnles all along the foundation around the house. I had no choice but to remove concrete slab for patio and small section at a time I dug down 5' acid etched exterior wall. Power washed it. Rolled and brushed tar on exterior cinderblock, below grade to few inches above grade, then place sheet of ice/water roofing paper for %100 extra protection. As I back-filled I used a 5'x6"X6" Post to tamper fill as hard as possible. Then graded topsoil so rainwater flowed away from house. Then I applied Dry-Lok. The stuff that also prevents radon entering.
😂 Also, My pitbull sat next to me while digging out along foundation as she knew sooner or later a chipmunk would be showing itself.
That year I killed over 20 chipmunks. This was 15yrs ago. Basement bone dry.
Though it's backbreaking work, doing it right the first time is best solution.
I got an estimate that was about $10,000. Went through 3 shovels a pickaxe and built a housing frame out of lumber that I could work inside to protect me from a cave in. I only dug out 5' sections at a time so there wouldn't be any stress to cause foundation concerns along the wall.
The intro music is legendary
One of the closets was added in a couple of years ago I guess they use concrete I noticed every winter the concrete sweats water it's been painted over when I moved in do I still need to remove the paint from the concrete or can I just paint over it with the Drylok cuz I've noticed it started growing a little mold I want to get to fix it before it gets out of control
Same reason I'm on here looking for solutions. I discovered the exact same after I moved in my apartment as well. I wish someone would have responded to this!
Does Dry Lock work on walls of basement not made of mason art materials?
This a very well-done video. And cool synth music too! :)
That music's from a 1970's porn soundtrack
@waldolydecker8118 you would know 🤩
I'd like to get the junk off my wall do I have to use a stripper to remove it
Will this help with continuous sharting?
Thank you for your time and your efforts
If someone is redoing their basement and are taking these necessary steps to check and prevent water; how long would the protective coat last?
New drylock 20 years warrenty
Zinnser Watertite is from what I know to be the original product, it’s been around for almost twenty years, this seems to be a similar or the same product?
Why yes, yes it does 🫦
I have a efflorescenceI problem not water damage.
Agree with other comments that recommend addressing it from the outside. I followed the procedure he outlined, even applied two applications of Muriatic Acid. Applied three coats of dry lock then painted it brown with a basement brick paint. Less than a month later, the efflorescence came back.
My basement walls have damp spots and are bulging. What can I do to fix it?
Can it be painted over with a pretty color?
patio furniture in your basement? I can't trust you now
Haha
Great point. Some credibility is definitely lost, lol
What about the exterior? Isn’t that the real problem area?
Can you spray the Drylok?
is it valid for internal wet wall in a cellar??
thanks
Best way to ruin your concrete wall or floor. NEVER use a sealant from the inside of the wall, always protect from the outside.
Exactly
You said inside twice, do you mean if you have water on the outside of the foil it's condensation?
Water on the outside of the foil is condensation. Water on the inside of the foil is seepage through the concrete or masonry. Sometimes, you'll have both.
@@BlackbriarEq he just said it wrongly ;-)
I have a 40 yr. house and the block has paint on it already. What needs to be done before applying this product?
In reality? Rent an excavator to dig down to the bottom of your exterior wall and install the best French Drain your money can buy.
@@jennytalbert5547 Might just waterproof the house since you have it all dug up...
@@sinenkoalexander Exactly, you’d want to use a sealant and cover the wall that will be in contact with the ground with plastic sheeting.
Not every time, but most of the time, it’s not a good idea to try to stop a leak from the interior wall. The water will end up coming through another area or cause more damage.
What about water seeping in, on a slab foundation? The floor where the wall meets has water seeping in. Not the walls.
Flex Seal. Kinda hard to paint over but if you are remodeling then don't worry, a wall will go over it. Flex Seal the corners and then use Drylok on the slab. At least 3 coats.
Sometimes the best solution is a sump pump if water is coming in from under the floor and not through the walls. Sometimes it's best for homeowners to call an exprt to their home instead of watching a video like this and thinking all of this is so easy. Drylock is an excellent product but the exterior solutions have to be figured out correctly and done right.
I have water seeping into my finished basement from outside. It stopped for a few months when sealed with regular acrylic. I'm about to go outside and use this stuff as it started seeping in again. These comments are not making me feel confident. Gotta do something though. Rain tomorrow
I have a wet basement wall and have had contractors apply Drylok twice. Still wet! Also made sure that the outside is sloping away from the house. Still wet!
This method doesn’t work no matter what product you use. Sealing the inside just makes the water sit inside the block, concrete or brick until it finds the next point of least resistance. You have to fix the drainage outside. Even better, fix the drainage outside and seal the outside so the water never gets in your block.
Waterproofing is the only thing you can do...
@@chaddad1236 Eh, it works fine for small issues. No outside issues but I just have two spots that like to leak a bit when it rains. This easily fixed the issue. But if you’re dealing with active water intrusion, not seepage, this is not going to work of course.
Awesome
Awesome
Thanks for educating the community and appreciate your volunteering and thanks to your team
Your in shape externally what about inside of your gut heart kidneys liver eating like that is not good?
Masonry materials?
my crawl space is making me crazy, i do not know how to grade the dirt outside. installed sump pump, do not know if they did it right, last rain can see water seeping in south wall. Who do i call,,, to stop this mess? had another plastic barrier put down, not sure he did that right, half a crawl space he ran it halfway up the foundation, ohter half not even completely over footer,, know i need new french drain on south side, found the old one, it is mostly plugged up with dirt, but was still draining and coming around the corner to the house and running water right in the crawl space door. extended that pipe, thought that would fix that.. but nope,, so now have pulled dirt Away from house, and getting a better fitting crawl space door, I need help guys
drainage and ventilation are most important
The only solution is repair from the outside . Dig out to 12-18 below wall intersection with foundation use commercial waterproofing materiel "bituthene 3000 membrane or tremproof 60 trowel on install French drain and sump pump if necessary.
that is the right way to do it.
If you do not protect the wall from the outside, painting and sealing from the inside alone doesn't stop the moisture from getting through, anyone who has dealt with this before understands this simple logic. One has to dig from the outside, and seal the exterior walls. REALLY DRYLOK!!
Suckers always looking for a quickfix. This is the kinda crap you pull when you need to dump a house. Let the next poor bastard deal with the fallout. ;-)
Simple solutions rarely work and may end up costing more to remove it to make better repairs needed. 🤔
If you have a high water table nothing is going to stop hydrostatic pressure from pushing water thru your foundation. Sealing it up without doing something about the water behind the wall is asking for trouble.
this usually only works for homes that are fairly new and that the basement floor is not that deep underground. My two cents, older homes have outside problems with the worst being to ding up around the sides of your basement walls " on the outside side," remortar old bricks and blocks, apply tar and other water proofing steps. lot of work, not cheap.
I am in the processing of starting the project you describe ( having alot of soaking wet blocks and seepage in my basement ) Ive been quoted about 4k to dig up the affected areas my question is is it worth doing without installing a drain system? Like just digging repairing any cracks etc with hydraulic cement applying a liquid rubber and a membrane then backfilling without a drain tile?
@MaDGriZz78 hmm,,, I've already started digging on mine.. looks like I'll be going about 3ft deep and 20ft to fix the area thats having problems.. I will go ahead and install a drain to move the water away from the area..
Available in mauritius?
Awesome
Thanks for educating the community and appreciate your volunteer-ship
Please keep posting some more videos.
I like it and Love it and you clearly explain
Thanks to Team in posting this video.
Thank ypu this video was very helpful
You like it you love it you want some more of it? Asking for a friend 😉
As someone that worked for a company that installed drain tile/baseboard systems I’m telling you this will never work. You’ve been warned.
Would this work as a vapor sealant on an above-ground block wall construction (i.e. block wall garage)?
Well said.
Thank you🌹🌹🌹
We did all of this in just one weekend.... with the help of a full crew of workers..... and you can do it too !
Ranger11413 how are things going for you now???
How well did it fix the problem with the leak
Exactly
@@sarahconcierge5954 I really didn't use this product. I was actually making fun of the video. My basement leaks like a sieve.
will this work on a wall with paint?
Not recommended. Drylok has to lock into the pores of the masonry, which it can't if those pores are filled with paint.
I used this on my basement but where there was water damage on the wall the dry lock turned orangeish. How do I hide the orange stain? I’ve used multiple coats but keeps coming through
Did you fix this? Id say paint over it with portland then come back over it with the dry lock paint
It keeps turning orange because water keeps getting through. You have to find out where the water source is coming in from the outside, then divert it away from your house. Also seal up anywhere you can on the exterior. THEN do interior stuff.
@@powerofknowledge7771 right the only way to water proof a basement is to dig around the foundation and poor a concrete wall around it, then coat that, install exterior drainage system out side, coat the inside, then install emergency interior drain system. The only way if not your taking a risk
Does it work the same for the floors
Nope tried it water still comes in
I shared your video with a friend thanks for your time new subscriber
Imaginary friends don't count, what's his email, mine just passed away 🙄
Man I the best thank you very much
The best way to prevent water in your house is fixing from the outside.the problem comes from the exterior so there's no need to waste money in the inside.doing exterior waterproofing will prevent this problems.the process for exterior waterproofing is digging the walls all the way to the footing,then patch all the crack and apply rubber membrane to all the wall.then put in the j drain system with a sump pump. Fill it back with 75% of gravel.then fill the rest will dirt..any questions feel free to ask
How do I know where the wall meets the footing?
@@BecomingB More than likely your basement slab is resting on your footing. Measure from the bottom of a basement window to the slab and that's the distance + 4" until footing on exterior. Sorry if this information comes too late lol
The water is still outside the wall this stops for a short while
This stuff didn’t work on my moist still goes thru it
I didn’t have any luck with this product, I followed it to the T
apparently using the acid etching is now frowned upon because it does more damage than good...
So what is a good way to deal with efflorescence? Would vinegar and water with a good brush work? Have you heard of PROSOCO's Sure Klean Light Duty Concrete Cleaner? Would this be a better way? Thanks!
🤦♀️
maybe new gutters but not having much FAITH in people doing the JOB right.
Great video
Okay, but what if the wall is so wet, it won't dry?
Look on the outside of your house for the water source. Find out where it's coming in and then divert the water away, via sloping it away and/or sealing up the exterior with mortar, concrete, or caulk (depending on the application). I would never use this Drylock paint product because it traps moisture in the masonry and causes it to deteriorate over time. Look into using Limewash as it will give you a paint-like finish, last longer, and will allow your masonry to breath (without trapping moisture).
Hi could i get this in uk ?
He can come over to my basement on the weekend.
I dont like drylock because mold grow on it
I doubt anyone followed his instructions exactly. Doesn't matter, I just replay over and over to hear his voice. Daddy issues? Maybe..... ahhhh. But I really do have some seepage issues.
That's a beautiful thing
Haha
lol!
They sell personal tissues for that. By all means, don't use DRYLOCK.
You get a better deal with Flexseal and Flexpaste.
This product will not fix the issue which is water inside the cement blocks. To do it properly you need get the water out of the block wall and divert it to a sump pit by means of a french drain. Leaving the water inside your wall will cause further damage. This ad is a complete joke!
As far as I know (and that's 5 duplex high and 20 years long), the cement gets better when moist or wet.
Don't forget that concrete cement needs to be flooded under water for 21 days. No damage.
@@solapowsj25 years or even decades of moisture inside cement block walls will damage the blocks. I've seen it first hand many times.
@@solapowsj25 "cinder" blocks are not the same as concrete. They are cheaper alternative to a concrete foundation and not nearly as good in my opinion. They are made up of different ingredients than concrete and are much more porous and over time constant contact with moisture will cause cinder blocks to deteriorate.
This info-advertisement is about as good as the old cigarettes “physician tested and approved” ads. Another comment here got it spot on about the water staying in the brick/concrete and degrading the structure. But no one cares. They just want to be able to flip it and get their money.
No longer will the water and the spiders rule the basement realm. With these magic tools we shall regain 1000ft^2 of living space for the kingdom! Thank you, great one, for bring your knowledge to the land!
Bicol doors
Dry lock is for dry basements.
I guess he works for dry lock. You will never stop the water from coming in unless you seal it from the outside area first.
pat simpson long time no see
Drylook DOES NOT WORK...I TRYED it for 2 days...now I have to remove it...I am a female and is harder for us than a man...need to find something better...
always attack from the outside kids.
Teddy Atlas anyone? Lol
This DOES NOT WORK!
mentira
L
Bad video, never waterproof inside, only outside, block needs to vent moisture out on the inside
Don’t paint your walls with drylok😂
You casually say use Drylock Etch or muriatic acid. Muriatic acid is not casual. The fumes from muriatic acid can rust steel and dissolve the mucus linings of your windpipe and lungs. Do not use without a respirator. In fact, Do not use indoors