This is exactly what I need done to my basement! I can do it myself! You made it look so easy. I think I will do it myself after two different people ran off with my money!! Thanks American Dry.
My brother in law had something similar doneclike this it doesn't work . The correct way is to dig the outside of the wall down to the bottom . You then tar the wall completely and cover it with a membrane over the tar to seal it completely.. Sand gravel is put in the first foot and then the dirt placed back ..
I'm so tired of contractors calling this type of solution "waterproofing" because it is really just water management. If you are allowing water to come in and pumping it back out, you have not waterproofed anything. The ONLY way to really waterproof a basement is to excavate around the OUTSIDE of the house and seal the block and install a proper drainage system to direct water away form the foundation so it never gets in to begin with. Of course, doing it this way is FAR more costly and that's why most contractors do this type of system instead. I'm not saying there's no place for this type of water management system because some people want a solution that doesn't cost $20k, but this absolutely should not be called waterproofing.
You are 100% right about the usage of the term "waterproofing" for a home. So-called, interior basement waterproofing is really all about managing the water properly. Structural engineers and residential contractors know for a fact that exterior foundation waterproofing with the addition of water management (drainage) is very expensive and doesn't last. That's why most warranties are for only 10 years. It is also an extremely invasive installation. The procedure may be able to stop water seepage temporarily, but the water will always find a way back into a basement. I've seen it more times than I can count. That's why managing water inside a basement is a better and more affordable solution overall. It can be installed in a way that water never touches the floor. "Basement Waterproofing" is a service category used since the 80s and stuck. If we want our customers to find us, we have to use it.
@@seanwagner3605 Thanks for sharing your expertise. According to Wikipedia... and the entire industry, "Waterproofing a basement that is below ground level can require the application of sealant materials, the installation of drains and sump pumps, and more."
Erm, "...and install a proper drainage system to direct water away form the foundation..."? If that isn't water management too, I'll eat my damp proof membrane! Haha!
@@michaelwarwick9930 What a stupid comment. As if wasn't perfectly clear that I am referring to managing water AFTER it has entered the building, as oppose to before.
We leave foundation support by creating our engineering tabs (you can see them in this video). If we are replacing another waterproofer's system, who removed the floor around the perimeter of the basement, then our SuperCrete alone will harden into a new support. SuperCrete mends to the original basement concrete slab and hardens at a higher PSI than concrete used by most contractors. We prefer to use engineering tabs because our SuperCrete will allow you to start using the floor the next day without worries.
If I only have one corner that leaks can this be done in just that corner? Like 6-10 feet either side of the corner. Unfortunately my sump pump is on the opposite end of the basement so I would imagine I would need two sump pumps. Another challenge in my situation is the problem corner has baseboard heat, have you installed these systems with baseboard heat? Located in Michigan if you know anyone
Sorry, we don't know anyone in Michigan to recommend. Baseboard heat (water or electric) should not be a problem. It sounds like you need a full-perimeter system with water coming in the opposite corner from an existing sump pump.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems thanks for your reply. This house was built in 1966, I don't know if there is full perimeter drain tile or not. If there is I'm sure it's not in great shape. Lots of clay in the soil around here. That corner has been leaking at the floor joint with the winter thaw we have been having after heavy snowfall.
Where you have the engineering tabs you cannot make weep holes in a block scenario. What happens to the water in that particular block? It fills up and spills over into its neighboring block and out the bottom eventually? Ty
I have a system that was put into my home before I bought it. Looking at this video and many others it doesn't look like it was done 100% correctly. For one the concert they poured isn't 16 inches wide, parts of it are cracking and that plastic honeycomb plastic on the wall is coming off the wall. Some areas have a 2 inch gap. My question is, can I glue or concrete it back to the wall?
I've been told I have hydrostatic pressure in my basement. Our sump pump was recently installed in the middle of our slab (the lowest point) where most of the water would seep through. I noticed your sump pump is located in the corner. No digging or weeping tiles in the perimeter. Does it matter where the sump pump is installed?
If you don't have weeping tile around your perimeter, you cannot install sump pumps in the corners. Your sump pump setup sounds like the best choice in your situation, even though we would not recommend it. You are allowing the water to move underneath and possibly above the slab to the sump pump. You may be undermining the aggregate under your floor.
In my house the northern half of the house has a slab and the southern half has a basement beneath. In a system like this on the interior, would it make any sense to put this on the non-exterior wall in the basement (between north-south)?
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems Watched again and still don't see any check valve on either sump pump. Maybe you can tell me at what time a check valve appears in your video?
@@phillipkirby502 ruclips.net/video/IVgmcXlONpA/видео.html Visible only for a few secs on 2nd pump install. It is attached directly to the pump, followed by the white discharge pipe. Super durable and silent.
So why would you not treat the water intrusion from outside and dig around the house and redo the weeping tile system and water proof the outside. The reason I ask is that I have someone that wants to dig my entire basement up and i have water coming in from one place and just needed fixed from the outside. It is leaking in around my main house watrer feed about 5 feet below grade in to my basement
We could use this service in Union NJ!!!! Ida hit our street hard....several neighbors are looking for this service....would it be prudent to come to Jersey for a few weeks if you had enough clients?
Sorry. It's not cost effective for us to work in Jersey. Plus we are very busy right now and are strictly giving homeowners in our immediate area priority.
Incredibly educational video, ADBS - thank you. Looking to do my basement so researching and learning as much as possible. Haven't seen the drain board in other installations - what's the purpose? Also, some installers prefer to leave a 1/2" gap, while others don't. Appreciate your thoughts.
The drain board is design to keep water from touching underneath the concrete floor and directing water from the cold joints and weep holes into the drainage system.
Does your company do exterior found repair? Cracks, etc? Also, on average, what is the time frame for completing a job like the one 8n this video? And does the homeowner need to remove all belongings from the basement?
Yeah I had Ohio State do something similar and it still leaks. And in really weird spots too. Like on the wall where the crawlspace entrance is located. Doesnt happen very often but 7k and it lasted maybe 5 years before leaks started again. Had them out here once but it didnt do much good. Gutters are definitely clear in the front of the house....owing to gutter guard. Unfortunately the back of the house is a lean to addition with a lousy angle to ice builds up in the back gutter pulling it away from the house if I dont plug in the heating wire fast enough during the winter. I wish I could find the right size screws for the holes in the gutter...
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems Yeah. I tried to calling them again and they never came out owing to COVID. Of course my neighbor's basement is always dry
@@EarlFaulk i never liked this system, the problem ive seen with it is, on the days you get a storm you often also get power cuts, this making the pump totally useless and then your basement floods anyway oO ive seen good success with products like Aquaguard 101, as long as they are installed to the right thickness they work very well.
@@jaredheilemann4795 yeah ive seen them, ive also seen people just forget about them because they are not needed for years, then all of a sudden they do need the battery backup but its not looked after and fails.
We don't give costs or estimates online because they lead to misinterpretation. The video only shows part of the scope of work. Call for an inspection.
Hello. I just had a 1500 sqft basement done in similar matter. But upon trenching it was found that my full basement had no footer, and was just a 4 inch slab floor. So the installers did partial trenches along the corners and not full perimeter. Could the rest be trenches down the road or it is not structurally advised?
Yes you can. If your foundation walls are resting on dirt rather than a footer with a ledge, then it is resting on hardpan clay. Hardpan clay is very dense and can withstand the weight of the house. It is important to create a false-footer out of the hardpan clay to create a dirt ledge to rest the re-poured slab floor on along the walls. Watch this video: ruclips.net/video/2_adHhELygA/видео.html
Hell no it isn’t I do this for a living it’s 2 days at the least 1 if you have an amazing crew that all knows what they’re doing and will work hard and fast... also not against putting in hours. Hour you don’t work one day is an hour the next
I remember doing this for 14 an hour. taking concrete buckets up the stairs everyday! I remember installing my first sump pump I was excited, I no longer do waterproofing basements
@@uzielrios9909 Start with the easier solutions first, these systems are near worst case scenario. Make sure gutters are clear are draining far away from the foundation, make sure you have proper grade etc.
@@uzielrios9909 the corrugated drain pipe was not deep enough. I installed basement drains in college. That pipe was not 12” deep. They didn’t seal the joint seams
@@Hello-zf5lq honestly it’s kind of the industry standard now of 6” depth. Get in and get out. Very few basement water proofing business will go the distance in depth. Drainage tile has to be set at depth with clean stone. Notice they didn’t show how they ran the pipe under the slab section they didn’t remove. Dollars to donuts they put a break in the pipe. The idea is that the water will find the next section of pipe and continue on to the sump. If at all, that job has a 10 year warranty or worse a break light warranty. In 12-15 that drainage tile will be clogged with sediment and will need to be dug out and replaced again. Corrugated pipe or thin wall pvc will fail at those depths. Those trenches need to be 12-13 inches below grade with a non-woven geotextile underlayment with .5-.75 clean crushed stone with a vapor barrier laid down with the seams sealed then backed with a 3-4” of concrete. The wall tile is to allow any water to penetrate and run down into the pipe line while keeping the water hidden All of which cost money but to appear more appealing to the customers they need to cut corners to keep price down.
Engineering tabs are designed to maintain the original floor against the walls and on the footer. Our propriety Supercrete replaces the initial thickness of the floor and welds into the old concrete (including engineering tabs) with a strength of 6000+ PSI. That is stronger than the original floor and almost 3X above the recommended standard. Not only do we solve your basement water problem, but we also give back a better foundation slab to maintain the structural integrity of your home. 99% of other companies just use plain concrete with a much lower PSI.
Are you referring to the holes for the discharge lines? There are engineering concerns when drilling through the foundation wall, but if it's above grade, you just need to know where to drill to avoid rebar, etc. And don't put a hole directly under a joist or too close to the top. Since they used a percussion drill, you can be sure they didn't hit any rebar; it wouldn't have gone through.
@@jasexavier lots of older homes don't have rebar or even fill the blocks with concreate, in this video you can see when he drilled he popped through the face of the block and into the block wall cavity, well in the section they showed on this video that's what it looked like and is very common, did not see any steel used under the new concreate or any starter bars drilled into the footing or bottom block, im no engineer but 30+ years in the building game, i have seen this type of fix done 100s of times and they always install steel reinforcement, as concreate only has high compression strength and without steel it can crack very easily and move.
I’m looking to purchase a plot of land with a new foundation with a cap. Basement has about 6 inches of water. No bulkhead, so rain and snow have access now for about a year. Could you tell me what would be an estimate for a 24’x 32’ foundation to water proofed, as I would like to make this into an apartment? Thank you. Are you available? New Hampshire.
Excellent question. A high percentage of basements leak in the corners, so we want to definitely get that part of the wall exposed to set up our Drain Board - Flow Channel and connect it down into our subfloor water management system 10 to 12 inches below the bottom of the floor. This is the way to truly get the basement as dry as possible and illuminating any chance of further seepage.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems Thank you! I will keep looking. My concern is if there's risk ripping or tearing the walls as well as anchoring into the cement where they've dug the trench.
Absolutely not. you can rent or buy a jackhammer for 300 or so. Crushed stone is cheap. That black drain pipe is cheap. Concrete is cheap. If you have a friend thats slightly handy you could easily do this in 1 or 2 weekends. Im sure the sump they used is probably the most expensive part of this project. Obviously this depends on the size of your basement but that one looked relatively tiny.
To maintain the structural integrity of the basement and allow our Supercrete to have more surface area to grow into. Structural engineers designed the three-piece foundation (footer, walls and floor) to interlock and resist hydrostatic pressure. We like to keep as much of it intact as possible.
Why are the drains on the inside of the wall instead of outside? Would it not be as effective to dig through the dirt and install a system at the footer?
Interior drainage takes a lot less time and money to install. If properly installed it will last a lifetime and maintain the structural strength of your foundation. Exterior drainage systems may last 5 to 10 years before exterior elements overwhelm them.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems Probably depends on the local circumstances. Where I live digging a trench around the house is easy, because the ground is soft.
The engineering tabs keep original wall up against walls and on the footer at multiple points of contact. Our Supercrete will grow into the neighboring concrete tabs and slab floor for quicker mending and increase strength.
My home 🏡 1927 beautiful wood floors, built ins, yet yes when we get rains ☔️ it comes in. We have two DEhumidfiers yet 2 years ago we had epic cold 🥶 subzero and ice dams epic 11 inches of snow ❄️ in a day. Thus making something worse. Our gutters are clear. Most of my neighbors all have drain tile. Yet I’m not sure that be enough???! We need you in Minneapolis!
Water can always find a way into your basement unless you control it properly. You need to get a trustworthy inspector to give you a fair and accurate assessment. Unfortunately, you will have to remove your wood flooring around the perimeter of the room to install a drain tile system. I wish you luck.
In a rainy area north of Toronto. Sump pump runs several times an hour. Installed a back up , just set to engage higher level than primary pump. Then battery back up bilge pump on a garden hose exit. We use an audio floor alarm . Even reached the point I dug another sump with dedicated pump beside primary sump. Cross linked. Secondary pit stays dry by properly setting engagement levels. It’s a backup only. Recently had a Generac standby system installed for piece of mind. I put heat tracing cable on first 60 feet of the 120 foot exit line to ditch. Never had to use it though. I think pumps should have rubber mechanical type quick connections. Pumps fail at worst possible times. Many stories of $50 k flood damage to basements around my area. Worst part was using jack hammer and concrete saw. Messy.
Sump pumps are machines and machines have a tendency of breaking down because of their dependency of moving parts. Failure is inevitable. That's why annual, bi-annual testing of your pump, and home electrical is important. Some of our lucky customers have 20 year old sump pumps still running. Most die between 5 to 10 years old and need to be replaced.
Is there an advantage to running the discharge lines up through the new concrete, rather than through the sump well cover? It certainly looks nice, but it would make repairs more difficult if anything ever happened to those lines.
Yes. Many advantages. I assure you that replacing or repairing a sump pump with our discreet discharge pipe setup is easier than the traditional method. Watch this video to learn more: ruclips.net/video/kQFtuGJFxl8/видео.html
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems Thank you for the reply! I do see the advantage. I'm not sure I like having that long line sitting always full of water, but running a sloped line across joists also sucks. I suppose there are always trade-offs.
Do you guys come down to PA--Allentown area? The basement waterproofing contractors in my area just do that "lego" approach with their "patented" drains.
No. We don't go out that far. Unfortunately, "lego" waterproofers are all over the place and sometimes the only option. There is one company we like in PA called American Waterproofers Inc. I don't know if they service your area, but you can give them a call.
If your outside sewer line or dry well discharge pipe freeze solid during the winter, freeze free allows water to discharge out of a vent rather than backing up in to the basement.
It would have to be non-corrugated bc it doesn't have a sock on it but I couldn't tell from the video, just wondering. Great install! I run a foundation repair crew and do this all the time, so I respect this kind of work
Customer not interested in removing oil from the tank, storing oil, removing their brand new tank, stay without heat or hot water for 2-3 weeks, etc. In addition, it will cost them $$$ to do a tank removal, re-installation, and coordinate two different companies work schedules. They have a new oil tank with a 10 year warranty. They usually last 25 to 35 years. It makes dollars and sense to leave it alone. It will take less effort and time to jackhammer out and replace in the distant future. In the meantime, they have a lot of water entering the basement. That takes top priority to resolve immediately.
on new homes yes where you can join to the under footing and slab waterproofing but not on older buildings and buildings where the inside slab is poured upto the block wall on the inside, witch you can see by the half height block at the bottom of the block wall, the main problem can be water coming up between the slab and the block and it may not even be the wall leaking in the first place, this fix lowers the water table so it shouldn't ever cause a problem again, but if you use this system, then install a battery backup on that pump, so it keeps working even when there is a power cut, or even better scrap the pump and have your drain pipes just run down hill using gravity if your house is on a hill and this is possible.
That is an excellent system. I recently purchased a 70 year cape cod in the Philly burbs. It has a basement I want to convert to living space. Is that possible with a system like this?
Yes. We don't know anyone in Philly to recommend but ask lots of questions. Make sure they take a similar approach and have a long-standing track record. This is the only system that keeps water away from the floor. It's a perfect setup for a finished basement.
Two questions 1. Do you HAVE to have 3 inch concrete when you re apply the concrete? 2. Did/Do you have to slope the weeping tile twords the sum pump pit, Or would it still be okay if you didn't?
The International Code Council states that all new construction should have a minimum of 3.5-inches thickness for a concrete slab. This is the minimum amount to sustain your foundation's strength. Many states don't enforce this requirement, but respected builders do it anyway. Weeping tile requires a downward pitch (slope) towards the sump pump, or it will clog with iron ochre, or become a breeding ground for mold.
@@BreezerX31 In short, you lost the advantage of the hydrodynamic vortex separators from self-cleaning the pipe or weeping tile. You also lost the benefit of removing the water quickly. It will act more like an overflow system but in the depth of the footer. Hopefully, you bought a perforated pipe. During a dry spell, any remaining water will slowly recede out the perforations (holes) in the pipe. We constantly mention 'pitch' or slope in all of our videos. Sorry, you missed it.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems ill be honest, I started this project having no idea what I am doing (still don't ) I am at the point where I have to cut out the membrane to how I want it. I have not yet filled the trench with cement. I just don't think I have to motivation to take out all of the stone that I've already dumped in. Doing the whole basement perimeter. About 600sq ft. 1 yard worth of stone, but I fear I will regret it if I dont, take it all out and try to slope it properly. Thank you for your advice it all helps!
Does this system have a specific name? All the companies that have given me estimates are all using the gutter like basement system. How can I find a company that will use this method?
We call ours the SuperDry System. It is a dual-pressure relief system that uses corrugated, perforated ADS dual wall pipe pitched along the perimeter of the interior footing. Many waterproofers use a similar system, yet the installation technique will vary. The gutter system is a terrible system for many reasons. Watch some of our videos and we explain endlessly why the gutter system should never be on the market. We replaced too many and feel bad for homeowners who get sucked in.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems okay great! Yes I did watch your videos and immediately realized what a mistake it would be to have a gutter system installed. You method looks much more reliable and makes much more sense. I mentioned these methods to the contractor fixing my flooded basement and he said he didn’t recommend putting in a system that invites water to the foundation and interior of the home due to the possibility of damage to the foundation and settling. He recommended i grade the area around my house and upgrade downspouts on my gutters. Are his concerns valid in your opinion? And is interior waterproofing better than exterior? I’m just trying to get as much info as I can before I spend thousands lol. Thanks for your help
@@andrewmoorefield5505 I'm sure your contractor means well, but he definitely does not have the understanding or experience to advise on basement waterproofing compared to a specialist in that field. We have many videos on our channel explaining how water finds a way into your basement through foundation cold joints and hydrostatic pressure. It is a process that will never stop. You can delay it but it will always come back. Grading and downspouts will not stop it. That backfill area around your house will always allow rainwater to saturate the soft soil surrounding your house. Interior waterproofing is the best and most affordable option to manage the water. If done properly, the installation will not damage the structural integrity of your home.
@Jessica Jones Not to add to the fire, but I had my basement waterproofed. I am in Canada so not this company, but there are a million factors when they quote a job. Things as simple as ceiling height, ease of access to the basement, where they can park their dump trailer as well as the big things like size, availability, how high the water table is are all factors in quotes. Expecting an estimate on a RUclips video is crazy. I supplied my own sump pumps as well as did all the outdoor trenching, removed a window in my basement for material to go through and moved a shed so they could get their trailer for material removal as close as possible. All of these factors helped reduce my quoted price.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems You surely missed an opportunity to sell Jessica a pair of solid dry basement shoes here, always keep adding to your service portfolio, always! 🤣
Water comes in through the seam between the wall and the floor (cove). Our system routes the water away from the floor and manages it deep below the floor. This allows you to get a dry basement.
If water is coming in only at the cold joint and not dripping down the wall behind the gutter, isn't the space between the back of the gutter and the wall just letting moisture into the basement as a result of humid air rising behind the gutter? It seems it would be better to seal between the back of the gutter and the wall near the top of the gutter to keep humid air out.
We get this question all the time from PA. In other states too. We really don't have any contacts outside of Connecticut and New York. When looking for a contractor try to use much of the information you learn here. Avoid any and all footer/floor level drainage, or "jack of all trades" contractors with an old truck, and lots of promises. Look for a drainage waterproofing expert in business for over 7 years.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems , can you explain what you mean by "footer/floor level drainage"? I am hiring a waterproofer in DC and want to make sure I am looking for the right thing -- and I am not sure what you mean by this. In the "pitched pipe & stone" section of the video, it looks like you installed a 4" or 6" pipe underground to carry water to the sump pump. I assume that is the correct solution and not what you mean?
@@michelleolenoski3956 There are waterproofers out there installing gutter-like drainage on top of the footer (where your floor sits). The footer is perfectly level and will not allow their drainage to have a pitch to the sump pump. Good drainage is located in the subfloor area with a pitch like ours in the video. Here is a video that will explain it all in short order. ruclips.net/video/5JTBhlQq8hQ/видео.html
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems I think all of my quotes are for a gutter-like system on top of the footer. I will have to ask again, but I haven't found anyone doing drainage in the subfloor area.
@@michelleolenoski3956 Subfloor drainage is the way to go. If the contractor is experienced and grades the pipe down to the sump basket properly the subfloor system will outlast any system on the market. The only thing to keep an eye on is the sump pump. It is a motor and motors wear out. They can last anywhere between 3 to 15 years depending on the construction quality and amount of activity. Keep looking and don't settle for less.
Maybe this is cheaper, but its better to seal from the outside of the house. Sump pump just kills the idea of really having construction done in the basement.
No. Exterior sealing and waterproofing is never cheaper, beside it will not last as long. Plus it will cost you more than the budget they propose when they remove your driveway, walkway & patio to do a halfway decent job. Sump pumps are a minor inconvenience in comparison, and their placement can be more discreet than you think.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems ..Never said it was cheaper. But, considering the health risks, it's better and more efficient to fix from the outside. That's definitely not a minor inconvenience. Consider the short to long term. Your assuming there is going to be needed additional removals of accessories from the exterior of the home. Even so, many small companies can do the work without the removal of anything other than the dirt. Every job is different, but well worth the pay to fix from the outside. I believe, It takes less overall money to remedy a medium to large project to repair your wall from the outside than a sump pump. Especially when comes to your health and the overall freedom of being able to use your basement, not just a loss of space.
Y esa bomba de sumidero van las heces fecales yo duermo en ese basment y hay unas grietas piso me inmagino o será para que salgan los gases tengo 2 años sufriendo urticaria idiopatica cronica
Not all basements are can be converted into a living space. Have your basement tested for mold before turning into a finished living space. Sewage ejector pumps and sump pumps are two different types of pumps. The sump pump we install only discharges water to the outside, not sewage.
I had the quote today, and a guy name dennis showed up and explained the process to water proof the basement But, the price was not what I was expecting it, it got me hinged, the house needs it but financially I'm not there in the price, I gotta now find a way of paying for it, I hope some how or way I can find a solution. I also realized in drafted contract there wasn't an itemization equivalent to the amount in break down of the cost in my project, I have to ask Dennis because I had to go to work so it was rushed.
@@rubencruz7800 if you'd be willing to do some of the work yourself, you could probably cut down on a lot of the costs. Something as simple as removing the debris & soil yourself could save you a few hundred $$$.
I saw a home in my neighborhood where they dug up around the entire outside foundation and covered it in a type of board and wrapped it, then filled in the trench. Basically just put a waterproof barrier around the foundation.
Won't work. It's not so much surface water, but rather underground water table that seeps into your basement. It's best to release the pressure on the wall, than trying to block it off.
Hats off to this hard working men. Hope they got paid well.
Those workers are INHUMAN! They installed all that in 3 minutes and 29 seconds 😳😮😮
🤣🤣
😂😂
This is a time lapse. It’s wasn’t done in real time.
@@BeeHiverson 😳😮😮
@@BeeHiverson the individual is lacking of attention and needs notifications to "feel complete". Nice video by the way.
Best decision we ever made over 10 years ago.
These guys know their stuff!
This is exactly what I need done to my basement! I can do it myself! You made it look so easy. I think I will do it myself after two different people ran off with my money!! Thanks American Dry.
Go for it! But do it right.
My brother in law had something similar doneclike this it doesn't work .
The correct way is to dig the outside of the wall down to the bottom .
You then tar the wall completely and cover it with a membrane over the tar to seal it completely..
Sand gravel is put in the first foot and then the dirt placed back ..
@@pauljimenez4026that works for the wall but does not stop the moisture that comes from under the floor and next to the footer
I'm so tired of contractors calling this type of solution "waterproofing" because it is really just water management. If you are allowing water to come in and pumping it back out, you have not waterproofed anything. The ONLY way to really waterproof a basement is to excavate around the OUTSIDE of the house and seal the block and install a proper drainage system to direct water away form the foundation so it never gets in to begin with. Of course, doing it this way is FAR more costly and that's why most contractors do this type of system instead. I'm not saying there's no place for this type of water management system because some people want a solution that doesn't cost $20k, but this absolutely should not be called waterproofing.
You are 100% right about the usage of the term "waterproofing" for a home. So-called, interior basement waterproofing is really all about managing the water properly. Structural engineers and residential contractors know for a fact that exterior foundation waterproofing with the addition of water management (drainage) is very expensive and doesn't last. That's why most warranties are for only 10 years. It is also an extremely invasive installation. The procedure may be able to stop water seepage temporarily, but the water will always find a way back into a basement. I've seen it more times than I can count. That's why managing water inside a basement is a better and more affordable solution overall. It can be installed in a way that water never touches the floor. "Basement Waterproofing" is a service category used since the 80s and stuck. If we want our customers to find us, we have to use it.
Spot on. This is water control. Not waterproofing.
@@seanwagner3605 Thanks for sharing your expertise. According to Wikipedia... and the entire industry, "Waterproofing a basement that is below ground level can require the application of sealant materials, the installation of drains and sump pumps, and more."
Erm, "...and install a proper drainage system to direct water away form the foundation..."? If that isn't water management too, I'll eat my damp proof membrane! Haha!
@@michaelwarwick9930 What a stupid comment. As if wasn't perfectly clear that I am referring to managing water AFTER it has entered the building, as oppose to before.
I’ve been researching many companies. You’re super Crete is a great product.
We need a waterproofing system like this!
this video gives a good view of the discharge system
Do you leave portions of the slab in place so some support is still there?
I have seen some contractors dig the trench all the way around.
We leave foundation support by creating our engineering tabs (you can see them in this video). If we are replacing another waterproofer's system, who removed the floor around the perimeter of the basement, then our SuperCrete alone will harden into a new support. SuperCrete mends to the original basement concrete slab and hardens at a higher PSI than concrete used by most contractors. We prefer to use engineering tabs because our SuperCrete will allow you to start using the floor the next day without worries.
If I only have one corner that leaks can this be done in just that corner? Like 6-10 feet either side of the corner. Unfortunately my sump pump is on the opposite end of the basement so I would imagine I would need two sump pumps. Another challenge in my situation is the problem corner has baseboard heat, have you installed these systems with baseboard heat?
Located in Michigan if you know anyone
Sorry, we don't know anyone in Michigan to recommend. Baseboard heat (water or electric) should not be a problem. It sounds like you need a full-perimeter system with water coming in the opposite corner from an existing sump pump.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems thanks for your reply. This house was built in 1966, I don't know if there is full perimeter drain tile or not. If there is I'm sure it's not in great shape. Lots of clay in the soil around here. That corner has been leaking at the floor joint with the winter thaw we have been having after heavy snowfall.
We live in west Michigan. FSM is going to be installing 2 sump pumps and floor tiling perimeter in our basement next month. Costing us $27,000!
Looks like a lot of work
Looks Very Expensive too ... Imma guess $20,000
@@jefffromjersey52 I think they quoted us $13000
@@michaeldillman404 $13 is actually NOT bad . I would gladly pay them $10,000- 12 K CASH for that same exact size job . thats a LOT of work ..
Me too but i understand why it's alot of work and i guess everyone involved have to get paid @michaeldillman404
@@jefffromjersey52Close 13.5
Great videos! What brand do you use for drain board?
Where you have the engineering tabs you cannot make weep holes in a block scenario. What happens to the water in that particular block? It fills up and spills over into its neighboring block and out the bottom eventually? Ty
We cross drill weep holes into those block channels on the inside through the bookend weep holes.
I have a system that was put into my home before I bought it. Looking at this video and many others it doesn't look like it was done 100% correctly. For one the concert they poured isn't 16 inches wide, parts of it are cracking and that plastic honeycomb plastic on the wall is coming off the wall. Some areas have a 2 inch gap. My question is, can I glue or concrete it back to the wall?
I'm sorry to hear about the poor installation. Consider nailing the loose sections of your plastic honeycomb board with a masonry nail gun.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems thank you
do those weep holes go all the way through the wall, to the outside? Or just the inside, side of the block? thanks
Just the inside of the block.
I've been told I have hydrostatic pressure in my basement. Our sump pump was recently installed in the middle of our slab (the lowest point) where most of the water would seep through. I noticed your sump pump is located in the corner. No digging or weeping tiles in the perimeter. Does it matter where the sump pump is installed?
If you don't have weeping tile around your perimeter, you cannot install sump pumps in the corners. Your sump pump setup sounds like the best choice in your situation, even though we would not recommend it. You are allowing the water to move underneath and possibly above the slab to the sump pump. You may be undermining the aggregate under your floor.
This doesn't look like preventing water from coming in. Looks like a big electric bill. Any way to actually prevent water from entering?
In my house the northern half of the house has a slab and the southern half has a basement beneath. In a system like this on the interior, would it make any sense to put this on the non-exterior wall in the basement (between north-south)?
Yes. Water does go under your house where the slab is on the first floor.
What happens when the is a power cut or your pump fails?
Hope there is a check valve on those sump pumps...?
Does it look like we didn't install them? Watch the video again.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems
Watched again and still don't see any check valve on either sump pump.
Maybe you can tell me at what time a check valve appears in your video?
@@phillipkirby502 ruclips.net/video/IVgmcXlONpA/видео.html Visible only for a few secs on 2nd pump install. It is attached directly to the pump, followed by the white discharge pipe. Super durable and silent.
Is there a reason you don't wrap the weeping tile with some sort of fabric?
Wrap impedes water delivery and clogs overtime. They work like a AC filter, but you can't change them out in a subfloor waterproofing system.
Do you know any company doing this in Australia maybe?
BEAUTIFUL WORK I CANT ONLY DREAM OF HAVING. LOOKS LIKE EXPENSIVE TEAM WORK LOL BUT WORTH IT ALL.
How water is filling into those big black pipes? Do you cut pipes or make some enter points on them?
The pipes are perforated with slotted holes.
So why would you not treat the water intrusion from outside and dig around the house and redo the weeping tile system and water proof the outside. The reason I ask is that I have someone that wants to dig my entire basement up and i have water coming in from one place and just needed fixed from the outside. It is leaking in around my main house watrer feed about 5 feet below grade in to my basement
Clean install! Therapeutic to watch.
We could use this service in Union NJ!!!! Ida hit our street hard....several neighbors are looking for this service....would it be prudent to come to Jersey for a few weeks if you had enough clients?
Sorry. It's not cost effective for us to work in Jersey. Plus we are very busy right now and are strictly giving homeowners in our immediate area priority.
I need them like ASAP
Incredibly educational video, ADBS - thank you. Looking to do my basement so researching and learning as much as possible. Haven't seen the drain board in other installations - what's the purpose? Also, some installers prefer to leave a 1/2" gap, while others don't. Appreciate your thoughts.
The drain board is design to keep water from touching underneath the concrete floor and directing water from the cold joints and weep holes into the drainage system.
What was the cost on that particular job?
Mine was gonna be 10k and it looks about the same distance as i was gonna have done.
Does your company do exterior found repair? Cracks, etc? Also, on average, what is the time frame for completing a job like the one 8n this video?
And does the homeowner need to remove all belongings from the basement?
Yeah I had Ohio State do something similar and it still leaks. And in really weird spots too. Like on the wall where the crawlspace entrance is located. Doesnt happen very often but 7k and it lasted maybe 5 years before leaks started again. Had them out here once but it didnt do much good. Gutters are definitely clear in the front of the house....owing to gutter guard. Unfortunately the back of the house is a lean to addition with a lousy angle to ice builds up in the back gutter pulling it away from the house if I dont plug in the heating wire fast enough during the winter. I wish I could find the right size screws for the holes in the gutter...
Sorry to hear. They should come out and repair whatever they did wrong. Did you get a guarantee?
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems
Yeah. I tried to calling them again and they never came out owing to COVID. Of course my neighbor's basement is always dry
@@EarlFaulk i never liked this system, the problem ive seen with it is, on the days you get a storm you often also get power cuts, this making the pump totally useless and then your basement floods anyway oO ive seen good success with products like Aquaguard 101, as long as they are installed to the right thickness they work very well.
@@Yahgiggle they make battery backup pumps too with a series of deep cycle batteries on a trickle charger for in the event that you described
@@jaredheilemann4795 yeah ive seen them, ive also seen people just forget about them because they are not needed for years, then all of a sudden they do need the battery backup but its not looked after and fails.
Does it have to run the entire perimeter of the basement?
Full-perimeter is not necessary in some cases. Depends on the severity of the water intrusion and history.
Wow that only took 3 and a half minutes ? Quick workers ! How'd you get the concrete to dry so quickly ?
Using the magic of video editing. 😊
how much does a job of that size run?
We don't give costs or estimates online because they lead to misinterpretation. The video only shows part of the scope of work. Call for an inspection.
I got a quote to fix mine for me its around 8,000
Hello. I just had a 1500 sqft basement done in similar matter. But upon trenching it was found that my full basement had no footer, and was just a 4 inch slab floor. So the installers did partial trenches along the corners and not full perimeter. Could the rest be trenches down the road or it is not structurally advised?
Yes you can. If your foundation walls are resting on dirt rather than a footer with a ledge, then it is resting on hardpan clay. Hardpan clay is very dense and can withstand the weight of the house. It is important to create a false-footer out of the hardpan clay to create a dirt ledge to rest the re-poured slab floor on along the walls. Watch this video: ruclips.net/video/2_adHhELygA/видео.html
This doesn’t look like 3.5 minutes of work to me😭
Hell no it isn’t I do this for a living it’s 2 days at the least 1 if you have an amazing crew that all knows what they’re doing and will work hard and fast... also not against putting in hours. Hour you don’t work one day is an hour the next
@@brandonfoamposite7461 The jobs I do are both outside and inside. Often times it takes a week
@@brandonfoamposite7461 Five man crew did a 40 ft wall section and sump install in only 5 hours.............$ 3200 Canadian, worth every penny !
@@kevindhuse9087 you don’t have much of a sense of humour, huh?
I remember doing this for 14 an hour. taking concrete buckets up the stairs everyday! I remember installing my first sump pump I was excited, I no longer do waterproofing basements
Does this really work I have to do something to fix my basement but I not sure. What kind Of work is the best
@@uzielrios9909 Start with the easier solutions first, these systems are near worst case scenario. Make sure gutters are clear are draining far away from the foundation, make sure you have proper grade etc.
@@uzielrios9909 the corrugated drain pipe was not deep enough. I installed basement drains in college. That pipe was not 12” deep. They didn’t seal the joint seams
@@mikez7842 looks like a pretend hack job to me
@@Hello-zf5lq honestly it’s kind of the industry standard now of 6” depth. Get in and get out. Very few basement water proofing business will go the distance in depth. Drainage tile has to be set at depth with clean stone. Notice they didn’t show how they ran the pipe under the slab section they didn’t remove. Dollars to donuts they put a break in the pipe. The idea is that the water will find the next section of pipe and continue on to the sump. If at all, that job has a 10 year warranty or worse a break light warranty. In 12-15 that drainage tile will be clogged with sediment and will need to be dug out and replaced again. Corrugated pipe or thin wall pvc will fail at those depths.
Those trenches need to be 12-13 inches below grade with a non-woven geotextile underlayment with .5-.75 clean crushed stone with a vapor barrier laid down with the seams sealed then backed with a 3-4” of concrete. The wall tile is to allow any water to penetrate and run down into the pipe line while keeping the water hidden
All of which cost money but to appear more appealing to the customers they need to cut corners to keep price down.
What's the 2nd discharge line for? An unshown 2nd pump?
Yes. 2nd pump is located in the opposite corner of the room.
Doesn't breaking at the wall compromise the foundation? What are engineering tabs?
Engineering tabs are designed to maintain the original floor against the walls and on the footer. Our propriety Supercrete replaces the initial thickness of the floor and welds into the old concrete (including engineering tabs) with a strength of 6000+ PSI. That is stronger than the original floor and almost 3X above the recommended standard. Not only do we solve your basement water problem, but we also give back a better foundation slab to maintain the structural integrity of your home. 99% of other companies just use plain concrete with a much lower PSI.
Are you referring to the holes for the discharge lines? There are engineering concerns when drilling through the foundation wall, but if it's above grade, you just need to know where to drill to avoid rebar, etc. And don't put a hole directly under a joist or too close to the top. Since they used a percussion drill, you can be sure they didn't hit any rebar; it wouldn't have gone through.
@@jasexavier lots of older homes don't have rebar or even fill the blocks with concreate, in this video you can see when he drilled he popped through the face of the block and into the block wall cavity, well in the section they showed on this video that's what it looked like and is very common, did not see any steel used under the new concreate or any starter bars drilled into the footing or bottom block, im no engineer but 30+ years in the building game, i have seen this type of fix done 100s of times and they always install steel reinforcement, as concreate only has high compression strength and without steel it can crack very easily and move.
Wow, that was some clean work 👍🏽💪🏽
Thank you! Cheers!
How is that works altigether?
Perfectly. Homeowners are very happy.
I’m looking to purchase a plot of land with a new foundation with a cap. Basement has about 6 inches of water. No bulkhead, so rain and snow have access now for about a year. Could you tell me what would be an estimate for a 24’x 32’ foundation to water proofed, as I would like to make this into an apartment? Thank you. Are you available? New Hampshire.
Is there a reason you don't put the engineering tabs in the corners I would think that would be a stronger support?
Excellent question. A high percentage of basements leak in the corners, so we want to definitely get that part of the wall exposed to set up our Drain Board - Flow Channel and connect it down into our subfloor water management system 10 to 12 inches below the bottom of the floor. This is the way to truly get the basement as dry as possible and illuminating any chance of further seepage.
@@stevewallis661 That's all you need. Nothing more. Then again, I could sell the customer more and make more money, but I don't play that game.
So how can you install drywall after this is installed?
Look up installing dry wall over concrete block walls. Install normally.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems Thank you! I will keep looking.
My concern is if there's risk ripping or tearing the walls as well as anchoring into the cement where they've dug the trench.
What is the big black metal container in the basement?
Oil tank.
Silly question, What happens when they want to remove the oil tank and go green? You pored the cement over the feet..Just an observation.
Empty tank and cut feet off at top of floor.
That's some serious labor. Gotta have good Credit for financing on that.
Absolutely not. you can rent or buy a jackhammer for 300 or so. Crushed stone is cheap. That black drain pipe is cheap. Concrete is cheap. If you have a friend thats slightly handy you could easily do this in 1 or 2 weekends. Im sure the sump they used is probably the most expensive part of this project. Obviously this depends on the size of your basement but that one looked relatively tiny.
That looks easy
That's what they all say. 😜
What is the purpose of the engineering tabs @45 seconds
To maintain the structural integrity of the basement and allow our Supercrete to have more surface area to grow into. Structural engineers designed the three-piece foundation (footer, walls and floor) to interlock and resist hydrostatic pressure. We like to keep as much of it intact as possible.
Great job! I need this done at my new house asap!
Looks like a nice product.
All that and could probably do some landscaping outside to draw water away from house.
Sometimes that might work. In this case, they did everything right when it comes to landscaping and they still got water in their basement.
Why are the drains on the inside of the wall instead of outside? Would it not be as effective to dig through the dirt and install a system at the footer?
Interior drainage takes a lot less time and money to install. If properly installed it will last a lifetime and maintain the structural strength of your foundation. Exterior drainage systems may last 5 to 10 years before exterior elements overwhelm them.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems Probably depends on the local circumstances. Where I live digging a trench around the house is easy, because the ground is soft.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems I heard interior drainage does not work; must be dug out on the exterior
@@Hello-zf5lq Totally untrue. Who told you that? A contractor who can get more money on an exterior waterproofing job?
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems Daniel O'Connor on RUclips
What is the reason for engineering tabs? I have a block basement that I'm getting ready to put a system in.
The engineering tabs keep original wall up against walls and on the footer at multiple points of contact. Our Supercrete will grow into the neighboring concrete tabs and slab floor for quicker mending and increase strength.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystemsflooring into walls 👍 typo
Boy, I sure hope they are in my area.
My home 🏡 1927 beautiful wood floors, built ins, yet yes when we get rains ☔️ it comes in. We have two DEhumidfiers yet 2 years ago we had epic cold 🥶 subzero and ice dams epic 11 inches of snow ❄️ in a day. Thus making something worse.
Our gutters are clear. Most of my neighbors all have drain tile.
Yet I’m not sure that be enough???!
We need you in Minneapolis!
Water can always find a way into your basement unless you control it properly. You need to get a trustworthy inspector to give you a fair and accurate assessment. Unfortunately, you will have to remove your wood flooring around the perimeter of the room to install a drain tile system. I wish you luck.
I wish you were in my area! 😢
I was just gonna put some thoroseal on the wall
Looks great BUT what’s the sticker price?
Call us to give you an estimate for your basement.
Holy sh*t! This job execution was militaristic! 👏
All our waterproofing crews are from West Point. 😆
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems wish you guys were here in MO. I'd certainly be knocking on your door!
In a rainy area north of Toronto. Sump pump runs several times an hour. Installed a back up , just set to engage higher level than primary pump. Then battery back up bilge pump on a garden hose exit. We use an audio floor alarm . Even reached the point I dug another sump with dedicated pump beside primary sump. Cross linked.
Secondary pit stays dry by properly setting engagement levels. It’s a backup only. Recently had a Generac standby system installed for piece of mind. I put heat tracing cable on first 60 feet of the 120 foot exit line to ditch. Never had to use it though. I think pumps should have rubber mechanical type quick connections. Pumps fail at worst possible times. Many stories of $50 k flood damage to basements around my area. Worst part was using jack hammer and concrete saw. Messy.
Sump pumps are machines and machines have a tendency of breaking down because of their dependency of moving parts. Failure is inevitable. That's why annual, bi-annual testing of your pump, and home electrical is important. Some of our lucky customers have 20 year old sump pumps still running. Most die between 5 to 10 years old and need to be replaced.
What do you do if the wall is leaking from about half way up?
Watch some of the other videos.
Is there an advantage to running the discharge lines up through the new concrete, rather than through the sump well cover? It certainly looks nice, but it would make repairs more difficult if anything ever happened to those lines.
Yes. Many advantages. I assure you that replacing or repairing a sump pump with our discreet discharge pipe setup is easier than the traditional method. Watch this video to learn more: ruclips.net/video/kQFtuGJFxl8/видео.html
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems Thank you for the reply! I do see the advantage. I'm not sure I like having that long line sitting always full of water, but running a sloped line across joists also sucks. I suppose there are always trade-offs.
Do you guys come down to PA--Allentown area?
The basement waterproofing contractors in my area just do that "lego" approach with their "patented" drains.
No. We don't go out that far. Unfortunately, "lego" waterproofers are all over the place and sometimes the only option. There is one company we like in PA called American Waterproofers Inc. I don't know if they service your area, but you can give them a call.
What is freeze free
If your outside sewer line or dry well discharge pipe freeze solid during the winter, freeze free allows water to discharge out of a vent rather than backing up in to the basement.
great video production!
I live in Indiana, do you have a industry contact that does business here?
Sorry, I don't. Good luck finding someone.
Where are you located indiana?
Us Waterprofing
Nice work
nicely done!
Thank you! Cheers!
Wish you guys were in WNY State...badly need our basement done. No one in my area says they can do it.
Sorry to hear. What we do, no one does because it is too much work. There is no sense installing a system unless it's done right the first time.
Why not a french drain on the outside?
Not reliable or durable. Interior drainage is reliable, durable, and cheaper to install.
no cloth to separate rock from soil?
No. I don't recommend it.
Was the pipe corrugated or non-corrugated?
It would have to be non-corrugated bc it doesn't have a sock on it but I couldn't tell from the video, just wondering. Great install! I run a foundation repair crew and do this all the time, so I respect this kind of work
Corrugated and perforated.
Why would u cement the oil tank in rather then removing till floor was cured? Now the legs would have to be cut when need replacing
Customer not interested in removing oil from the tank, storing oil, removing their brand new tank, stay without heat or hot water for 2-3 weeks, etc. In addition, it will cost them $$$ to do a tank removal, re-installation, and coordinate two different companies work schedules. They have a new oil tank with a 10 year warranty. They usually last 25 to 35 years. It makes dollars and sense to leave it alone. It will take less effort and time to jackhammer out and replace in the distant future. In the meantime, they have a lot of water entering the basement. That takes top priority to resolve immediately.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems thank you for the fast reply. I understand now. Thanks
is it common process to waterproof older block foundation walls from the outside as well?
No. It is not common to do both.
on new homes yes where you can join to the under footing and slab waterproofing but not on older buildings and buildings where the inside slab is poured upto the block wall on the inside, witch you can see by the half height block at the bottom of the block wall, the main problem can be water coming up between the slab and the block and it may not even be the wall leaking in the first place, this fix lowers the water table so it shouldn't ever cause a problem again, but if you use this system, then install a battery backup on that pump, so it keeps working even when there is a power cut, or even better scrap the pump and have your drain pipes just run down hill using gravity if your house is on a hill and this is possible.
What does something like this cost?
For me it was 8,000
@@theshireman5642 Pesos?
@@dooovde for you it be 16,000 I think
Wow! This is a good work! 💯 🧡
Thank you 🙌
Anyone know a service like this in Michigan?
Sorry. We don't have any recommendations in Michigan.
Wonder how much $$$
Ngl this looks fun, i should of went into the trades
Nice.but don't like the connection to the sump pump,if it was to fail,rather use a pvc union.would make it easier to remove pump,and replace
We have a PVC union lower next to the check valve. That discharge pipe must be solid on a 45-degree angle to take advantage of the discharge force.
That is an excellent system. I recently purchased a 70 year cape cod in the Philly burbs. It has a basement I want to convert to living space. Is that possible with a system like this?
Yes. We don't know anyone in Philly to recommend but ask lots of questions. Make sure they take a similar approach and have a long-standing track record. This is the only system that keeps water away from the floor. It's a perfect setup for a finished basement.
Two questions
1. Do you HAVE to have 3 inch concrete when you re apply the concrete?
2. Did/Do you have to slope the weeping tile twords the sum pump pit, Or would it still be okay if you didn't?
The International Code Council states that all new construction should have a minimum of 3.5-inches thickness for a concrete slab. This is the minimum amount to sustain your foundation's strength. Many states don't enforce this requirement, but respected builders do it anyway.
Weeping tile requires a downward pitch (slope) towards the sump pump, or it will clog with iron ochre, or become a breeding ground for mold.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems I did not slope it, is this going to screw me over..?
@@BreezerX31 In short, you lost the advantage of the hydrodynamic vortex separators from self-cleaning the pipe or weeping tile. You also lost the benefit of removing the water quickly. It will act more like an overflow system but in the depth of the footer. Hopefully, you bought a perforated pipe. During a dry spell, any remaining water will slowly recede out the perforations (holes) in the pipe. We constantly mention 'pitch' or slope in all of our videos. Sorry, you missed it.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems ill be honest, I started this project having no idea what I am doing (still don't ) I am at the point where I have to cut out the membrane to how I want it. I have not yet filled the trench with cement. I just don't think I have to motivation to take out all of the stone that I've already dumped in. Doing the whole basement perimeter. About 600sq ft. 1 yard worth of stone, but I fear I will regret it if I dont, take it all out and try to slope it properly. Thank you for your advice it all helps!
Is how much of a slope would you recommend? Do you suggest I pull out all of the stone 😩😅, and slope it?
Does this system have a specific name? All the companies that have given me estimates are all using the gutter like basement system. How can I find a company that will use this method?
We call ours the SuperDry System. It is a dual-pressure relief system that uses corrugated, perforated ADS dual wall pipe pitched along the perimeter of the interior footing. Many waterproofers use a similar system, yet the installation technique will vary. The gutter system is a terrible system for many reasons. Watch some of our videos and we explain endlessly why the gutter system should never be on the market. We replaced too many and feel bad for homeowners who get sucked in.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems okay great! Yes I did watch your videos and immediately realized what a mistake it would be to have a gutter system installed. You method looks much more reliable and makes much more sense.
I mentioned these methods to the contractor fixing my flooded basement and he said he didn’t recommend putting in a system that invites water to the foundation and interior of the home due to the possibility of damage to the foundation and settling. He recommended i grade the area around my house and upgrade downspouts on my gutters. Are his concerns valid in your opinion? And is interior waterproofing better than exterior? I’m just trying to get as much info as I can before I spend thousands lol. Thanks for your help
@@andrewmoorefield5505 I'm sure your contractor means well, but he definitely does not have the understanding or experience to advise on basement waterproofing compared to a specialist in that field. We have many videos on our channel explaining how water finds a way into your basement through foundation cold joints and hydrostatic pressure. It is a process that will never stop. You can delay it but it will always come back. Grading and downspouts will not stop it. That backfill area around your house will always allow rainwater to saturate the soft soil surrounding your house. Interior waterproofing is the best and most affordable option to manage the water. If done properly, the installation will not damage the structural integrity of your home.
How much for something like this? I'm moving to Bethel CT and need to transform a wet basement into a laundry storage room.
Give us a call at 800-748-2002. We will send an inspector to give you a quote for your basement's specifications.
@Jessica Jones We are not selling a pair of shoes. Foundation repair and waterproofing is a little more complex than that.
@Jessica Jones Not to add to the fire, but I had my basement waterproofed. I am in Canada so not this company, but there are a million factors when they quote a job. Things as simple as ceiling height, ease of access to the basement, where they can park their dump trailer as well as the big things like size, availability, how high the water table is are all factors in quotes. Expecting an estimate on a RUclips video is crazy. I supplied my own sump pumps as well as did all the outdoor trenching, removed a window in my basement for material to go through and moved a shed so they could get their trailer for material removal as close as possible. All of these factors helped reduce my quoted price.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems You surely missed an opportunity to sell Jessica a pair of solid dry basement shoes here, always keep adding to your service portfolio, always! 🤣
@@Visceral. Good idea! I will add that to our service requests in 2021, "Dry Basement Shoes..."
Why u didn't cover the walls first? I liked how you guys conent the pump discharge int the trench!!! Really cool!!!
Our SuperSlurry is great for walls in general, but are recommended on bare concrete walls showing efflorescence.
What is going on when this system is in place and you still get leaks during strong rains??
Water comes in through the seam between the wall and the floor (cove). Our system routes the water away from the floor and manages it deep below the floor. This allows you to get a dry basement.
If water is coming in only at the cold joint and not dripping down the wall behind the gutter, isn't the space between the back of the gutter and the wall just letting moisture into the basement as a result of humid air rising behind the gutter? It seems it would be better to seal between the back of the gutter and the wall near the top of the gutter to keep humid air out.
You would think the opening would create humidity, but it doesn't. No basement humidity whatsoever.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems Why even have the gap if there isn't a problem with water dripping down the walls?
Any recommendations for a company in Pennsylvania?
We get this question all the time from PA. In other states too. We really don't have any contacts outside of Connecticut and New York. When looking for a contractor try to use much of the information you learn here. Avoid any and all footer/floor level drainage, or "jack of all trades" contractors with an old truck, and lots of promises. Look for a drainage waterproofing expert in business for over 7 years.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems , can you explain what you mean by "footer/floor level drainage"? I am hiring a waterproofer in DC and want to make sure I am looking for the right thing -- and I am not sure what you mean by this. In the "pitched pipe & stone" section of the video, it looks like you installed a 4" or 6" pipe underground to carry water to the sump pump. I assume that is the correct solution and not what you mean?
@@michelleolenoski3956 There are waterproofers out there installing gutter-like drainage on top of the footer (where your floor sits). The footer is perfectly level and will not allow their drainage to have a pitch to the sump pump. Good drainage is located in the subfloor area with a pitch like ours in the video. Here is a video that will explain it all in short order. ruclips.net/video/5JTBhlQq8hQ/видео.html
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems I think all of my quotes are for a gutter-like system on top of the footer. I will have to ask again, but I haven't found anyone doing drainage in the subfloor area.
@@michelleolenoski3956 Subfloor drainage is the way to go. If the contractor is experienced and grades the pipe down to the sump basket properly the subfloor system will outlast any system on the market. The only thing to keep an eye on is the sump pump. It is a motor and motors wear out. They can last anywhere between 3 to 15 years depending on the construction quality and amount of activity. Keep looking and don't settle for less.
Thanks for the info.
did you use a drain tile system?
It is our SuperDry System that utilizes drain tile. Only to be installed within the depth of the footer.
Why not just prevent the water from coming inside to begin with? Exterior flood control, vs this.
So prevent rain from soaking into the grass/ground? Good luck with that!
@@VapnFagan Pretty sure they make something called a French drain for that. So yea.
I feel like it would take me at least 4 minutes to do it alone.
We have it down to 3 mins now.😆
It's 3.5min video but 3.5 days work for me.
Work faster. 😄
Maybe this is cheaper, but its better to seal from the outside of the house. Sump pump just kills the idea of really having construction done in the basement.
No. Exterior sealing and waterproofing is never cheaper, beside it will not last as long. Plus it will cost you more than the budget they propose when they remove your driveway, walkway & patio to do a halfway decent job. Sump pumps are a minor inconvenience in comparison, and their placement can be more discreet than you think.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems ..Never said it was cheaper. But, considering the health risks, it's better and more efficient to fix from the outside. That's definitely not a minor inconvenience. Consider the short to long term. Your assuming there is going to be needed additional removals of accessories from the exterior of the home. Even so, many small companies can do the work without the removal of anything other than the dirt. Every job is different, but well worth the pay to fix from the outside. I believe, It takes less overall money to remedy a medium to large project to repair your wall from the outside than a sump pump. Especially when comes to your health and the overall freedom of being able to use your basement, not just a loss of space.
Y esa bomba de sumidero van las heces fecales yo duermo en ese basment y hay unas grietas piso me inmagino o será para que salgan los gases tengo 2 años sufriendo urticaria idiopatica cronica
Not all basements are can be converted into a living space. Have your basement tested for mold before turning into a finished living space. Sewage ejector pumps and sump pumps are two different types of pumps. The sump pump we install only discharges water to the outside, not sewage.
That's some diy stuff
Contacted them for a free quote wish me luck
How did it go
I had the quote today, and a guy name dennis showed up and explained the process to water proof the basement But, the price was not what I was expecting it, it got me hinged, the house needs it but financially I'm not there in the price, I gotta now find a way of paying for it, I hope some how or way
I can find a solution.
I also realized in drafted contract there wasn't an itemization equivalent to the amount in break down of the cost in my project, I have to ask Dennis because
I had to go to work so it was rushed.
@@rubencruz7800 if you'd be willing to do some of the work yourself, you could probably cut down on a lot of the costs. Something as simple as removing the debris & soil yourself could save you a few hundred $$$.
@@rubencruz7800 how much you pay??
So basically, all that labor to let water in and then pump it back out. There's got to be a better way.
I was thinking the same thing..
I saw a home in my neighborhood where they dug up around the entire outside foundation and covered it in a type of board and wrapped it, then filled in the trench. Basically just put a waterproof barrier around the foundation.
Won't work. It's not so much surface water, but rather underground water table that seeps into your basement. It's best to release the pressure on the wall, than trying to block it off.