Everyone is sitting here shaking their finger that this is just a bandaid and not a real fix. I live on a hill and don't have many options and spending $20k to excavate the landscaping and do it properly isn't always an option for everyone. This is a great product to help out in conjunction with other solutions.
thanks Mark for describing the real life situation for many folks. Sure, it would be awesome to excavate and do exterior waterproofing/grading. But unlike HGTV, most of us have budgets and limited funds.
Well said... especially when you are in a land locked house as a lot of Pittsburgh Houses are. I wouldnt say I have a HUGE water problem, but I notice on heavy rains, I sometimes get a little seepage on the bottom of the walls. Im talking slight dampness. BUT... it always smells a little musty. Would you both say I should just use regular paint as to not cause anymore issues and would a dehumidifier help?
The problem I have is this video is just spreading bad information, and its selling a product that isnt going to do what is advertised. Most people watching this are running out to home depot to pick this shit up and 6 months from now are going to be upset when the product fails and they spent their time and money on this "waterproofing" Hydraulic cement and viscous paint are going to work about as well as play-dough and regular old latex paint if drainage issues are not addressed. Water is taking the path of least resistance and in most cases that means into your basement. Yeah, its expensive to have this problem addressed the right way, but when the foundation splits and the walls shift and half your house falls into a hole, enjoy sleeping at your sisters place. Its a waste of time and effort with the only one benefitting is the company pumping out DryLock.
Oh, and I forgot to mention this guy benefits from the views the video is getting. Now, excuse me while I go duct tape the side of my pool, its got a leak I need to address.
You need to put extensions on your rain gutter down spouts to drain the water away from the foundation. This is particularly important if you live in an area where there is a lot of rain.
Absolutely need to do that I had a new roof put on and new gutters and I pointed the gutters and another direction that I thought would be more beneficial than if it wasn’t and then I put on 4 foot extensions on all four of them away from the house running down a hill in all areas very necessary the gutters are more important to the roof the roof itself is to a certain extent the foundation won’t stay for long if you don’t care for your gutters
Great video. I also recommend adding mold additive to drylok paint since it only protects only mildew. Paint store will add mold additive at extra cost when mixing. Well worth the little extra money
If you have water penetration from the exterior and you seal up the inside, you essentially have sealed the water in the wall and this will eventually cause worse issues ie, faster deterioration and/or hydrostatic pressure.
I'm not sure I understand this, in my situation poured concrete walls built mid-nineties, perfectly dry except I've had 2 injections to fix settlement cracks. Painting just to paint, not meaning to seal. I don't want to put up walls, because I want to KNOW if water is coming in, so I can have it repaired properly, but white looks better than grey. So the hydrostatic pressure is like 10psi right? Enough to push through this flimsy stuff anyway, I would imagine. My takeaway is that if I'm not doing it to waterproof, no different than just putting latex paint on the wall (just more epoxy).. I could scrape the stuff off, it doesn't "penetrate" anything. I think the product is probably good for concrete paint, but not sealant - and I can't imagine water just "sits" halfway up a wall and wouldn't run down or come on through? I'm guessing people try to fix their leaky cinderblock walls from the 60's, and trap water in the inside of that. I watched videos where people can drill a hole and they see water pouring out. Anyone who thinks paint will fix that.. well :) Curious your thoughts
If your roof is leaking do you climb on top of your roof or fix it from the attic? The only real fix is to dig up the dirt outside and re-waterproof the walls, any other way is a hack that will probably lead to more problems, and if any contractor tells you otherwise find a new contractor.
@@danchase2023 just seeing this a year later, but there’s a lot to unpack here. Hydrostatic pressure can definitely rise vertically up a well sealed wall. The best application is always sealing from the exterior of the foundation by digging down to the footer, cleaning foundation and using your dry-lock/asphalt sealant etc. After doing this you should be able to paint the interior providing you’re all dry. If you just paint over the interior wall with latex paint and you still have a leak or seepage it will surely bubble and crack in no time and start to sweat and or leak, especially a eggshell or flat paint. The higher gloss/acrylic in the paint the more hydrostatic resistance.
@@danchase2023it is not really about the hydrostatic pressure. If moisture is getting into a concrete wall and is trapped inside it will start to wash out the lime and the wall will deteriorate. If no water is getting in it’s not a problem. But f ANY moisture is getting it it is a problem ruclips.net/video/pgA7FqD2IR8/видео.htmlsi=K7ZhuphIYTt9th11
A chemist from the company told me that using the brush would put it into the wall better especially when it’s applied to blocks. Was quick and easy to use, and it takes painting over well. Tinting seems a good option though. A roller will not let you get full benefit from Drylock. It’s an excellent product and well worth using. I used it in a new basement and never had any moisture problems. There may be similar products that do the same, but this one is great.
Finally, someone who isn’t neurotic and ranting telling us how to waterproof a basement. Excellent choice and as far as I am concerned, the only choice for painting cement walls or concrete. Also, two coats is the correct amount for doing it right! Finally somebody gets it correct! Good job and good video guy! Common sense strikes again! IGL there yah go!
thank you, as mentioned in the beginning it's not perfect but helps. The ideal situation would be to waterproof the foundation from the outside but that's not feasible or cost effective
Home Repair Tutor, I quite understand your desire to waterproof the outside as well as the inside. Cost restraints often jack up what we would rather do if we did not have to worry with money issues. We just have to do the best we can with what we have!
I have old sandstone walls in my over 100 year old home. My basement was parged and then top coated with white drylock. It held up for over 10 years until it started flaking in spots. I can't complain and never get any water in my old basement. My house it probably over a 100 years old and I'm fixing the areas that flaked and it should hold up another 10 years. Even before I fix any areas I'm still not getting any water in my basement. So for the people who say it will fail and cause more problems it really depends and is a case by case basis. I even had a Professional waterproofer come into my home 5 years ago and he said he really couldn't find any issues and suggested to just continue using a dehumidifier.
I just came across your channel and I'm really glad I did. I recently bought my first home. It's an older place, and I've got lots of little projects ahead of me to make it nice, including waterproofing my basement walls (they look almost identical to the walls in your video. Must be a western Pennsylvania thing). I really appreciate how informative your video was and the breakdown of tools and materials you used will make my job so much easier. I subscribed. I'm sure your future and past videos will be helping me a great deal.
@@williamm4442 This mostly true. But crystalline waterproofing DOES work. Technically it is not negative side because it actually migrates all the way through the concrete sealing the pours making the concrete itself waterproof. But you install it to the negative side. After it has had sufficient time to penetrate you can actually remove it from the face of the wall
Yeah, it's pretty good stuff! It IS thicker than regular latex paint, and it requires a heavier-than-typical brush to apply it. But it makes a big difference! 👍
Great video! Question - Will the moisture still be in the brick? Even though the inner surface of the brick is sealed will this not actually increase the moisture levels coming into the brick work from the other side as the seal paint will hold it in there?
I believe the moisture is still trapped and will eventually follow the path to least resistance. Creating more problems. According to a contractor I had a meeting with yesterday.
Yea, the system in this video is a band-aid which will eventually cause the moisture left in the brick to release its lime. Which is the binder or glue of the brick. Over time this foundation would not only start to leak a lot more but would also be brittle and unstable and have to be totally redone. Never stop the block from breathing. This is not a solution but the creation of a real problem.
It might appear to be working but in reality your doing more harm then anything. Water cannot be sealed out, it will eventually build enough pressure to get through and in the meantime trapping water in the brick or concrete which will cause damage and weaken the foundation and promote mildew and mold growth behind the paint. The moisture needs to breath out into the dry air to evaporate and walls should only be sealed on the outside and never on the inside in case some wicking does occur and needs to be able to get out. It might take a few years to but sealing the inside in a wet ground situation where it gets inside the basement will be a ticking time bomb with guaranteed damage to occur which depending on several variables can range from minor foundation damage if it's able to bust through the sealant before to much pressure has built which could cause major damage since the sealed out moisture sitting building up pressure will also weaken the concrete basically breaking it down rotting away from the inside out. So best case is the sealant being applied to the inside was done poorly or over existing paint causing it to fail before to much damage is done, and if it was done so well that it was able to hold off the pressure for several years before breaching probably due to weakened concrete then it can be a seriously dangerous situation that will be a huge financial cost which might even require lifting the house completely off the foundation and replacing it. If you live in a area with freeze thaw conditions the trapped water will freeze and expand showing the problem faster then areas where it stays warm year round and water just sits until the inevitable happens. Long story short don't seal the interior walls of basements unless your wanting a future major project to do or pass the problem to someone else unfortunate to get it unknowingly.
you cannot seal water out , it will build up pressure which could cause foundation damage and it will always evenually build up enough pressure to get in . until you can properly manage the water problem you want your walls to be able to get the maximum amount of opportunity to pass off water vapour into the air to dry, it needs to breath. You only want to seal the outside, however in above average locations for wet ground capilary wicking may still cause moisture problems even with the outside below grade foundation wall sealed and either an exterior or interior drainage system is nessary. Also the moisture trapped behind the latex paint or sealant could turn into a moldy nightmare.
These people dont understand that water proofing goes on the outside. This is just a bandaid till it turns into a major mess. He should have just painted the walls with a portland cement with enough water to act as a paint then skim with the same color cement of choice. Fixing the gutters and drainage issue would have been a better idea then just locking the moisture in the wall. He isnt going to see the damage till it gets really bad to and then will have to pay a huge amount of money to have the foundation repaired.
A foundation expert I would like to thank DRYLOK for causing a lot of cinder blocks to disintegrate as it traps water inside the wall. It's made me a lot of money in foundation repairs and proper waterproofing when people do DIY like this :)
@@MetalGuitar06 for cmu walls.. drill weepholes and bury lines under the slab to a sump. Keep the water out of the walls. Or waterproof from the exterior
@@LanceZ I don't know if you noticed, but the basement wall he was working on appears to be glazed block which can not drain water using weep holes like cement block can. Glazed block has horizontal air cavities not vertical, as you probably know. That's what I have in my basement of my 1901 home. So, assume that the exterior wall is both rubber sealed and has a J channel drainage system put in, what would you use to seal and improve the interior wall adjacent to that exterior wall.
Thanks for sharing your tips and recommendations in using Drylok. Another added benefit is that the 15-yr guaranty on the product is transferable to a new owner.
Why is the water dribbling out of a spout right at the exterior wall (0:54)? Wouldn't adding a downspout extension keep the water away from the house and, in turn, keep your basement drier? Good video, btw.
We used this paint to cover brick pillars in our fieldstone basement. It has held up really well and really brightened up the space. Now we need to figure out what to do with the cracked and nasty cellar floor.
I have about a half of my basement with Drylock Extreme. We had it tinted an off white. One side of the house is working really well, the other side is letting some moisture in because the walks on the side of the house have settled so that they drain into the side of the house. I will correct that when the weather warms. So far, I am really happy with it. It is thick but goes on and dries smooth. My basement was a lot worst then the basement in the video but now it is really starting to look nice. This is a good product.
As many comments indicate, managing and directing outside water away from the building is paramount. I used the Behr version of this and it’s been a few years now and still as good as day one. The key to success though is to remove any peeling previous coatings or loose paint as possible (if there is any). Also, ensure the cement or cinder block wall is very dry. Run a heater and dehumidifier if necessary as these products need to penetrate the porous surface where they crystalize for great adhesion and sealing so old paint left on the walls limits the new product to the vulnerability of what’s under it. Multiple thin coats as well with adequate drying time in between. Skip any part of this and you are wasting time and money.
Hello seem you know what you are doing... I am trying to do my basement floor with the wall & floor by dryloc and its a nightmare with an old 70 years floor and epoxy paint, I also used the hydroloc cement...do you have any suggestions? can I put the sealor over the epoxy over the paint...if not how do I get it off.
@@bernadettefrongillo6938 sorry to hear it’s a bear and I know the grief of removing decades old paint from concrete walls and floors. I’ve tried environmentally friendly strippers but they did nothing on the old oil paints. I’ve had great success using a disc grinder with a cup brush attachment. It’s very dusty though so be sure to wear protection etc. That is a fairly inexpensive tool if you shop around a little and it works great. If it’s a small area a heat gun and scraper/wire brush could work but the fumes are dangerous without proper ventilation and breathing protection. You certaily can risk coating over the old painted surfaces but again you’ll be at the mercy of the bonding quality of the old original product. If the old product is extremely hard to come off, then that area is probably ok to leave on there. If you do not trust the old coating to hold and it’s a big area, you are left to use an industrial strength paint/epoxy stripper that you brush/roll on. Once it’s worked it’s magic then finish with a good scrubbing and thorough rinse. Worst case scenerio is if the areas where you have to leave any previous coating ever peels, you only need strip, clean and recoat that specific area. Hope this helps.
If there is a substantial amount of water behind the stem wall, trying to seal the wall will only increase the amount of hydrostatic pressure which can create big issues down the road. I have been installing drainage systems for 13 years.
You are 100 percent right and I feel that corporate greed is at work here trying to fool people into thinking you can prevent water ingress in your basement by applying a sealer on the inside. The only repair from the inside should be with an expanding foam and epoxy. You should then follow up with working outside to remedy the core issue of the problem which normally is having too much water against the foundation. Simply directing water away from the home is often enough to help
Don’t listen to anyone who says to paint masonry. Especially in a leaky basement. All your doing is increasing the hydraulic pressure which will cause pop out and spalling.
FYI: fixing negative slope is key to waterproofing the basement. Thanks for the tip about drylock paint! I recommend a jackhammer and tear up the sidewalk to create pitch away from the house (with the crushed concrete from sidewalk and class 5 gravel on top). My basement looks very similar to this but I had more mortar issue with cinderblocks. I will definitely look into drylock paint for the refinish
I used this product (or it's sister) 32 years ago. It is failing. Lesson: Belt and suspenders. My builder didn't bother to offer any advice back then so I applied (all by myself) two coats of this stuff. Worked well for quite a while.
Drylok says right in the instructions that it is NOT recommended for painted walls. It may not adhere to the wall properly. But you applied it over paint. Did it work or did it flake off in a few months?
If you apply Drylok over paint doesn't the paint itself prevent the Drylok from absorbing into the concrete cinderblocks thereby wasting the Drylock paint plus wasting the $$ for the Drylock?
Hi! I'm from Taxachusetts. If you have water coming to the inside, you might have to seal it from the outside first, Is costly but worth it. I did this when I bought my duplex and have no problems with water coming inside. Still have humidity smell after but no water, and about two years ago I painted inside with DRYLOK and put a dehumidifier, and after all that is perfect no smell at all. If you have mold or mildew, those two are dangerous, better save than sorry. Specially If you, or any of your tenants are asthmatic, that can be a big problem, trust me, I talked from experience. Check estimates with different companies and then check with your mortgage company if you can take a loan against the house, so you can fix it the right way, I mean just a little advice. You won't regret it. Good luck with everything. 😊
I used this product for my home studio which is in my basement....I prolly used 3 or 4 coats... put my wall up..had to romove a panel 5 monthes later for some wiring and found some mold and a good amount of efflorescence ..even in the backn of the wall panels I jad installed so now Im stumped and at a stand still on what to do 🙄.....And for the ones looking into this product notice they have a couple formulas....the first kind i bought seemed a little grittier and did allow moisture in..so I cleaned any molded spots with a wire brush and bleached thoroughly and applied more dry lock but in the "new formula" which seemed less grittier and seemed to contain more latex...so I dont know if this company goofed on their prior batches and released a newer more expensive version ($7 difference per gallon) but i used this...3 coats..left it for 2 monthes..came back..still signs of efflorescence and a few tiny mold spot and thats with no wall panel over that area.. and I figure the severity would have been worse with the panel up and no air circulation hitting it..Just hope this helps someone out cause I'm still battling this problem 🤷♂️
The only other option is basically dig up all around your basement excavation level. And do drainage and seal the outside of the foundation. We have the same. But won't do that as it will be extremely expensive and its a storage for us. And eventually that seal will go again and you'll need to do it again. It's super involved but is the way to do do it.
Please note, that when hydrostatic pressure builds up in the cinderblock, its adds weights to the wall that these cinderblock that it was not created to hold. With that being said cinderblock horizontal cracks are likely to form. If this does happen all the way down the wall, please call and expert. This process is not "waterproofing".
Not supposed to paint it over paint. I’m in agreement that over time this is likely to cause more problems. Outside wall needs the waterproofing, and not this stuff.
I went through every procedure recommended and spent a small fortune on Drylock and hydraulic cement and even an interior french drain. Not a solution because the old brick wall had many cracks and pinholes that allowed water to seep in. Ultimately I was advised that I lived on a high water table and nothing on the inside would be able to resist the pressure from outside (which can quickly compromise whatever you slap on the interior wall). The only real solution is a french drain on the outside as well as applying waterproofing membrane on the outside wall all the way down the foundation (8 feet in some cases). Don't waste your money on things like Drylock because it's mostly cosmetic to make you feel good for a year and then you'll be fighting it again year after year.
I’ve seen it done rolled on. As far as I could tell it worked fine. May only be a small difference. The product works regardless. It’s been a while since I’ve used it. It may have improved. The label used to say to brush on but that may only have been back when I used it.
@@manganights i didn't read the label lol its essentially paint so didn't really think i had to. oh well. I rolled it on and touched up any holes with a brush. seemed faster
The only surface that would seem different is blocks. The rough texture supposedly gets filled by tiny things like the old Superballs that used to be popular. But even on that it would protect rolled on.
And what exactly shall painting over wet walls do? Seal the water in that it degrades the walls faster? Push the water inside the walls upwards to the wood? ....
Bottom line, This is great to apply after you fix the exterior drainage issues of your home. It doesn't matter what you smear, wipe, or cover your basement wall until you actually fix the root issue, which is water staying up against your exterior basement walls. This by itself is a short term band-aid that is doomed to fail. Make sure you do your homework before you throw away your money.
@@mathewgould1047 It will help alot to have water flowing away from the home, but even then if the ground becomes saturated you still need drainage to take ground water away from the foundation.
@@cyberspoce04 In some instances it may be the same. An actual fix for this issue is not cheap. A water barrier and drainage system need to be applied to the exterior wall of the basement. This means a trench needs to be dug so the barrier and drain can be applied. If you are in an area where there are no natural drainage options, An exterior sump pump will be needed to pump the water to the street and off the property. If you live up north where the ground experiences a deep freeze in winter, having wet and undrained soil against the basement can actually cave in the walls to the basement and move the wall off the foundation.
Used Drylock on my walls AFTER I addressed moving water away from my foundation. It has held up for YEARS and has virtually eliminated all of my moisture issues. If you do it right, it works. Don't skimp on it, but also ignore most of these comments telling you to spend $50k to have your foundation dug up and water proofed from the outside. They had people trying to use their own man power to fix their own problems, it prevents them from being able to come into your home and price gouge you for their services.
Even on the high end of the price scale, a normal house shouldn't cost 50k to waterproof from the outside. Maybe half that and that's a big maybe. Your Drylok held up because you got the water away on the outside. Drylok on the inside is a gimmick. It only works on very minor moisture issues. And even then it's a temporary fix. Excessive moisture in the concrete will slowly soften the walls and cause the paint to lose it's adhesion. It will push off. And in rare cases, it holds too much water in the wall for too long and will cause the wall to soften to the point the block starts to crumble. At that point you'd be looking at a wall replacement. I've even seen a poured wall so soft that you can push a screwdriver through it about 4 inches. These are all things this guy doesn't know and you won't see him back here in 10 years talking about his crumbling block walls. Since this is a block wall, an interior drainage system with the bottom blocks drilled for drainage would be much more effective. Depending on area and size, most people would be looking at between 5k and 10k for that kind of work. Do lots of contractors price gouge? Yes. Do lots of homeowners follow the advice of novices and potentially cause damage to their homes or at the very least spend money on something that doesn't work before having to hire a professional? Yes. And while we're at it, hydraulic cement is harder than either block or poured walls. As the walls expand and contract due to temperature changes, the hydraulic cement does so less. It will eventually lose it seal in the form of micro cracks and allow water to pass through. But you can always chip it off and reapply.
i'm western pa as well and buying my first home. I'm ripping out the pittsburgh potty and wanna get my basement nice and dry so i will be using this. thank you :)
@@MikesGarageReviews so can I get Menards to add color to the drylok paint off the shelf or do I have to apply drylok to the basement wall first and then paint on top when the drylok when the coats are dry?
Finally, a video made in Pittsburgh, Pa. Thank you! I want to Dryloc my basement, but there is stucco on the walls. I tried to scrap it of, but no can do. Can I paint over the stucco, will the Dryloc be as effective?
I'm in Pgh, too!! My prob is I've got a sandstone foundation. When I bought this house, basement had what looked like a recent paint job, super clean, but 5yrs later it's peeling in some places - sandy, mustard-colored patches falling away. Good amount of efflorescence. Not sure how I'd prep well enough for waterproofing. Any suggestions?
@@_MomtallicA_ I found a product Masterseal, that i will use to waterproof my basement. Initially i found Tameseal, but i could not find it locally. I reached out to the Tameseal manufacturer and got a reply back. The Masterseal is the same as the Tameseal; it can be used over stucco ensuing thorough coverage. I had to order a bonding agent, it arrived on Thursday. I will be starting the project on Monday 1/11/21.
The actual name of the product is Masterseal 583, this is resistant to mold and mildew. The bonding agent is MasterEmaco A660. I special ordered both at Ace Hardware. Research.
The drylok I put on years ago needs to come off because I am going to put something new on. I used a grinder to remove this stuff and some won't come off -- I just don't know if it has to all come off for the new to adhere. When I put on the dry lock on I didn't patch the cracks so it didn't work. This time I am patching cracks. I also had some foundation work done to the outside and we put in a new French drain.
It wont, this a total slumlord solution. Exterior waterproofing, grading, and drain systems are the solution. Only after that is done properly do you want to do what he shows in this video.
Do NOT seal the interior of basement walls. If water is getting to the wall from the outside, this will just lock the water in until it comes through the wall on the inside (usually peeling the paint)
That’s not actually a proper explanation on why this could be bad… if the water pressure is high enough that it may peel the paint, then this product is already incorrect to use. Understand WHEN it’s appropriate to use this product is more important than just making all or nothing statements. If you have active water intrusion, this is not the correct product. If you have minor leaks that occur when it rains due to a high water table, this is a great solution.
@@TheHeadinchargeNo it’s not. Trapping water inside a concrete wall will cause it to deteriorate. It will leech out the lime. I’ve seen it many times. It is common knowledge in the waterproofing industry. Any moisture in the wall has to be able to get out on the negative side. Period. It doesn’t even matter if it’s an active interior leak many times it scapes in the form of vapor. That’s why many basements née dehumidifiers. ruclips.net/video/pgA7FqD2IR8/видео.htmlsi=K7ZhuphIYTt9th11
I have an old storm shelter that does get about 6-7inches of water in it only when it rains extremely hard for a few days, but otherwise has a hairline crack around the middle circumference of the shelter that weeps some in the summer but not enough to cause water to pool. The walls are concrete slab. Do you think a product like this is a good fit?
if it holds up, it means there is no real moisture problems and you can accomplish the same thing with a basic primer. Primer is better because you want the moisture to come through the wall and allow dehumidifier to work. If it is holding water behind, you will have mold growth behind the paint in the future because it is constantly wet.
It does NOT hold up. Failed within 2 months in my garage. I DID ALL the proper procedures. Still failed.water psi pushes thru and mold still grows. Internal drain and pump worked.
@@DaCake2 water/vapor barrier.. its between block and the paint- causes odor and cant hold the water pressure/water vapor back- it can for a bit and as it does hold it back- it creates moisture behind paint- that gives a food source and moisture- for example remove moisrure painr and prong with moisture meter- always higher enough to cultivate mold vs normal breatheable paint or primer water vapor passes ans can air dry
Agree with other commenters... fix the water issue and get it away from the foundation (especially that downspout that dumps right next to the wall). Generally speaking.... vertical cracks = foundation settling (expected in any basement, show up at weak points like windows, corners, etc.), horizontal cracks = bad and the wall may be pushing in. I try to chisel a square grove, not a v-notch, for my hydraulic cement. It holds better. Injectable polyurethane is what I use to seal the crack inside the wall, after I fill any major cracks with hydraulic cement, leaving removable nails in through the cement to provide port access to inject.
Wow-what a nice landlord you are. My landlord doesn't care the water pours in when it rains he thinks the Dehumidifier is the answer.I live in PA too.Our basement smells i am sure there is mold there.
I'm interested to see the result sometime later. Any random paint can make a basement dry, the question is what happens not 2 or 5 years later? (They usually fail after 1-2 years)
Thanks for this video. It was posted in 2017. So, my question is this - how did it hold up and did it actually help with the moisture in the basement? I'm in Pittsburgh as well and have a similar situation in my basement. Thanks
We Drylocked our basement when we built our house in 1987. Just sold the house this year (Feb 2021). In 34 years we never had a problem with moisture in the basement and the paint held up quite well. Building a new home now and I'm going to Drylock the basement before I move in.
Now that its been over a year from uploading this video, is the basement waterproof for the most part? Anything you wish you would've known the first time around looking back?
It's held up well, better than I thought; that said, it's not perfect but this house is over 100 years old so other than doing a french drain this is the best I could do for now
I have the same problem with the house I grew up in and decided to keep. It's a beautiful OLD brick house like yours around 100 years old. And the foundation is built into a hill where there are springs. Your excellent suggestions are what I've started to do to eliminate mold that built up. So happy I found your video we are doing this project in phases and are ready to dry lock...however now I will add the Hydraulic cement phase to plug up miscellaneous holes. My dad had drilled targeted holes in the walls and made a trough to the drains to help the continuous tiny stream of water to go right down the drain. Oh and we've done inside AND outside french drains. Permanent? No, it was last dry locked about 15 years ago but that's not a bad result for a water issue that will never go away.
@@HomeRepairTutor you could have done a lot better using product called radonseal and then drylock on top. But that's for a future project. Radonseal will stop water from entering if done properly
This is so helpful! It is,exactly the issue we have in our basement. Can you tell me how long ago you did this and how it has worked out? Does the moisture still seep through at all?
@@zacharykicker6436 outside waterproofing is only solution with drain pipe all over the house (weep tile) and sump pump ..this is only that will work and stop water..but not 100% even that
Thanks for making this video. I found it helpful. I realize you are not making claims to be a waterproofing expert. At around 0:55 you talked about clean gutters but then showed the water leaking down right behind the sidewalk. Even a one foot extension or redirecting the gutters away from the house will make a huge difference.
Great video. Curious what others have found when working w/ Structural Clay Tiles (telephone tiles), in older houses. Drylok is used for concrete... What have folks used for Structural Clay Tiles?
Please do more basement videos! I have old basement JUST like this... I can't afford to completely finish it, but wondering what I can do to make it comfortable enough to be a game room or part-time bedroom.
Thx for this. trying to decide on which waterproof paint will help seal leaking tile block foundation in a 1917 home i inherited. the basement runs dehumidifier all yr round but after a sewer back up, the team forget to put it back on and mold developed on the damp walls simultaneous to leaking foundation. my mold removal guy said we need latex based paint or else we render the dehumidifier useless. he also said drylok was not latex paint? just curious if you ever heard that before. good vid though and am planning to use quikrete hydraulic cement to patch the exterior holes today, interior holes tomorrow. wanting to paint Friday. but still not sure what is best.
My husband drylocked our basement, & within a short time the drylock "bubbled up" & has made one heck of a mess falling off of the walls. Guess waterproofing the basement isn't so easy as you made it sound, but I sure wish it were.
No, it's not easy. Sounds like you didn't remedy the water issue prior to painting. If thought throwing some paint on the wall was going miraculously end you're water issue thought wrong. Nothings easy in this life. Unless you have alot of United State dollars.
My foundation is 122yrs old. I need to put in a sloping area on the east side. And I hope to pour a large slab of concrete on the back of the house. The south side has okay runoff and I need to rehang all the gutters. I only get 1-2" in certain puddles but it's enough to be super irritating 🙄. I'll get there. Thanks for the info.
At 0:55 minutes you show a downspout dripping right into the crack between the foundation and the walk. That water will go straight down the outside of the basement wall and likely into the basement. It might not be easy to reroute that water elsewhere, but it's important to do so. I read the label on Drylok and the precautions are extraordinary. Just opening a window does not seem to suffice. Forced ventilation strikes me as minimum, and some sort of respirator is likely important as well. You do show yourself wearing a respirator -- which is more than the demonstrators in one Drylok-sponsored video do -- but this seems to me to move the use of this material out of the range of ordinary homeowners' use, as respirators must be professionally fit to one's face if they're to be effective, and, sad to say, they don't fit tightly over beards. (I've heard you can slather your beard and mustache with petroleum jelly to make the fit, but am dubious that would be good for the rubber on the respirator.)
Assuming there are no moisture issues, what should I use to make my basement walls white? Walls are the original (1971) rough gray concrete, and I'm looking for a good cosmetic solution to tide us over until we can get the basement finished. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!
Wouldn't that just trap the moisture in the blockwork??? I think you have to water proof from the outside or else your blockworks stays wet 24/7. you are reducing the life expectance of the block by trapping the moisture in the block in stead of waterproofing from the outside.
Is that old white paint that you are applying dryloks to? I was reading online that dryloks does not work well when applied over paint? Can you advise?
So here are the basics: Walls are very strong in compression, not tension. If you "block" the water from penetrating the wall, hydrostatic pressure will build up and put too much tension force on the wall which will eventually cause wall failure. Solution: call a professional, because drylock is a bandaid fix not a permanent solution
But what if you only have a little moisture coming through the wall and just want to touch up the paint? Is it bad to use drylock or should I just use a regular paint?
@Doug D The only thing Im worried about is I heard you can't use the drylok over existing paint, which I have. So Im tossing around the idea of just getting a dehumidifier like you suggested and using regular paint to cover the mildew and water stains? What do you think?
Everyone is sitting here shaking their finger that this is just a bandaid and not a real fix. I live on a hill and don't have many options and spending $20k to excavate the landscaping and do it properly isn't always an option for everyone. This is a great product to help out in conjunction with other solutions.
thanks Mark for describing the real life situation for many folks. Sure, it would be awesome to excavate and do exterior waterproofing/grading. But unlike HGTV, most of us have budgets and limited funds.
@@HomeRepairTutor Exactly. Thanks for sharing the video
Well said... especially when you are in a land locked house as a lot of Pittsburgh Houses are. I wouldnt say I have a HUGE water problem, but I notice on heavy rains, I sometimes get a little seepage on the bottom of the walls. Im talking slight dampness. BUT... it always smells a little musty. Would you both say I should just use regular paint as to not cause anymore issues and would a dehumidifier help?
The problem I have is this video is just spreading bad information, and its selling a product that isnt going to do what is advertised. Most people watching this are running out to home depot to pick this shit up and 6 months from now are going to be upset when the product fails and they spent their time and money on this "waterproofing"
Hydraulic cement and viscous paint are going to work about as well as play-dough and regular old latex paint if drainage issues are not addressed. Water is taking the path of least resistance and in most cases that means into your basement. Yeah, its expensive to have this problem addressed the right way, but when the foundation splits and the walls shift and half your house falls into a hole, enjoy sleeping at your sisters place.
Its a waste of time and effort with the only one benefitting is the company pumping out DryLock.
Oh, and I forgot to mention this guy benefits from the views the video is getting. Now, excuse me while I go duct tape the side of my pool, its got a leak I need to address.
You need to put extensions on your rain gutter down spouts to drain the water away from the foundation. This is particularly important if you live in an area where there is a lot of rain.
Corigated tubing is a nice addition
Absolutely need to do that I had a new roof put on and new gutters and I pointed the gutters and another direction that I thought would be more beneficial than if it wasn’t and then I put on 4 foot extensions on all four of them away from the house running down a hill in all areas very necessary the gutters are more important to the roof the roof itself is to a certain extent the foundation won’t stay for long if you don’t care for your gutters
Spent a small fortune on basement renovation, it’s not 100% leak proof but rain barrels made a big difference.
Great video. I also recommend adding mold additive to drylok paint since it only protects only mildew. Paint store will add mold additive at extra cost when mixing. Well worth the little extra money
If you have water penetration from the exterior and you seal up the inside, you essentially have sealed the water in the wall and this will eventually cause worse issues ie, faster deterioration and/or hydrostatic pressure.
I'm not sure I understand this, in my situation poured concrete walls built mid-nineties, perfectly dry except I've had 2 injections to fix settlement cracks. Painting just to paint, not meaning to seal. I don't want to put up walls, because I want to KNOW if water is coming in, so I can have it repaired properly, but white looks better than grey. So the hydrostatic pressure is like 10psi right? Enough to push through this flimsy stuff anyway, I would imagine. My takeaway is that if I'm not doing it to waterproof, no different than just putting latex paint on the wall (just more epoxy).. I could scrape the stuff off, it doesn't "penetrate" anything. I think the product is probably good for concrete paint, but not sealant - and I can't imagine water just "sits" halfway up a wall and wouldn't run down or come on through? I'm guessing people try to fix their leaky cinderblock walls from the 60's, and trap water in the inside of that. I watched videos where people can drill a hole and they see water pouring out. Anyone who thinks paint will fix that.. well :) Curious your thoughts
If your roof is leaking do you climb on top of your roof or fix it from the attic?
The only real fix is to dig up the dirt outside and re-waterproof the walls, any other way is a hack that will probably lead to more problems, and if any contractor tells you otherwise find a new contractor.
@danchase2023 Drylock is designed to hold 15psi.
It's primary application is to stop moisture/water penetration.
Not a standard paint.
@@danchase2023 just seeing this a year later, but there’s a lot to unpack here. Hydrostatic pressure can definitely rise vertically up a well sealed wall. The best application is always sealing from the exterior of the foundation by digging down to the footer, cleaning foundation and using your dry-lock/asphalt sealant etc. After doing this you should be able to paint the interior providing you’re all dry. If you just paint over the interior wall with latex paint and you still have a leak or seepage it will surely bubble and crack in no time and start to sweat and or leak, especially a eggshell or flat paint. The higher gloss/acrylic in the paint the more hydrostatic resistance.
@@danchase2023it is not really about the hydrostatic pressure. If moisture is getting into a concrete wall and is trapped inside it will start to wash out the lime and the wall will deteriorate. If no water is getting in it’s not a problem. But f ANY moisture is getting it it is a problem
ruclips.net/video/pgA7FqD2IR8/видео.htmlsi=K7ZhuphIYTt9th11
A chemist from the company told me that using the brush would put it into the wall better especially when it’s applied to blocks. Was quick and easy to use, and it takes painting over well. Tinting seems a good option though. A roller will not let you get full benefit from Drylock. It’s an excellent product and well worth using. I used it in a new basement and never had any moisture problems. There may be similar products that do the same, but this one is great.
great tips, thanks for sharing!!!
Using a thicker nap roller cover on rough surfaces like concrete will perform similarly to brush work.
Finally, someone who isn’t neurotic and ranting telling us how to waterproof a basement. Excellent choice and as far as I am concerned, the only choice for painting cement walls or concrete. Also, two coats is the correct amount for doing it right! Finally somebody gets it correct! Good job and good video guy! Common sense strikes again! IGL there yah go!
thank you, as mentioned in the beginning it's not perfect but helps. The ideal situation would be to waterproof the foundation from the outside but that's not feasible or cost effective
Home Repair Tutor, I quite understand your desire to waterproof the outside as well as the inside. Cost restraints often jack up what we would rather do if we did not have to worry with money issues. We just have to do the best we can with what we have!
Thanks!
Thank you!!!
I have old sandstone walls in my over 100 year old home. My basement was parged and then top coated with white drylock. It held up for over 10 years until it started flaking in spots. I can't complain and never get any water in my old basement. My house it probably over a 100 years old and I'm fixing the areas that flaked and it should hold up another 10 years. Even before I fix any areas I'm still not getting any water in my basement. So for the people who say it will fail and cause more problems it really depends and is a case by case basis. I even had a Professional waterproofer come into my home 5 years ago and he said he really couldn't find any issues and suggested to just continue using a dehumidifier.
I am a young homeowner and I'm just learning but this was very helpful
this will work for a short time only
@@kevinmarkey2039 I figure. We're too comfortable with the idea of 1-2 years is "good enough"
we have this for over 75 years on our walls, what more can I say, nice job.
I know that running a dehumidifier is better than nothing. Getting the water away from the foundation is a must.
I just came across your channel and I'm really glad I did. I recently bought my first home. It's an older place, and I've got lots of little projects ahead of me to make it nice, including waterproofing my basement walls (they look almost identical to the walls in your video. Must be a western Pennsylvania thing). I really appreciate how informative your video was and the breakdown of tools and materials you used will make my job so much easier. I subscribed. I'm sure your future and past videos will be helping me a great deal.
This stuff doesn't work. There's no negative side waterproofing that works. This is just masking the issue
@@williamm4442 This mostly true. But crystalline waterproofing DOES work. Technically it is not negative side because it actually migrates all the way through the concrete sealing the pours making the concrete itself waterproof. But you install it to the negative side. After it has had sufficient time to penetrate you can actually remove it from the face of the wall
Yeah, it's pretty good stuff! It IS thicker than regular latex paint, and it requires a heavier-than-typical brush to apply it. But it makes a big difference! 👍
Great video! Question - Will the moisture still be in the brick? Even though the inner surface of the brick is sealed will this not actually increase the moisture levels coming into the brick work from the other side as the seal paint will hold it in there?
I believe the moisture is still trapped and will eventually follow the path to least resistance. Creating more problems. According to a contractor I had a meeting with yesterday.
Yea, the system in this video is a band-aid which will eventually cause the moisture left in the brick to release its lime. Which is the binder or glue of the brick. Over time this foundation would not only start to leak a lot more but would also be brittle and unstable and have to be totally redone. Never stop the block from breathing. This is not a solution but the creation of a real problem.
yup, that water will instead sit in the wall where it can freeze and mold
Yes, the wall bricks act like a sponge, the water stays in the wall. The only real fix is on the outside of the wall
It might appear to be working but in reality your doing more harm then anything. Water cannot be sealed out, it will eventually build enough pressure to get through and in the meantime trapping water in the brick or concrete which will cause damage and weaken the foundation and promote mildew and mold growth behind the paint. The moisture needs to breath out into the dry air to evaporate and walls should only be sealed on the outside and never on the inside in case some wicking does occur and needs to be able to get out. It might take a few years to but sealing the inside in a wet ground situation where it gets inside the basement will be a ticking time bomb with guaranteed damage to occur which depending on several variables can range from minor foundation damage if it's able to bust through the sealant before to much pressure has built which could cause major damage since the sealed out moisture sitting building up pressure will also weaken the concrete basically breaking it down rotting away from the inside out. So best case is the sealant being applied to the inside was done poorly or over existing paint causing it to fail before to much damage is done, and if it was done so well that it was able to hold off the pressure for several years before breaching probably due to weakened concrete then it can be a seriously dangerous situation that will be a huge financial cost which might even require lifting the house completely off the foundation and replacing it. If you live in a area with freeze thaw conditions the trapped water will freeze and expand showing the problem faster then areas where it stays warm year round and water just sits until the inevitable happens. Long story short don't seal the interior walls of basements unless your wanting a future major project to do or pass the problem to someone else unfortunate to get it unknowingly.
you cannot seal water out , it will build up pressure which could cause foundation damage and it will always evenually build up enough pressure to get in . until you can properly manage the water problem you want your walls to be able to get the maximum amount of opportunity to pass off water vapour into the air to dry, it needs to breath. You only want to seal the outside, however in above average locations for wet ground capilary wicking may still cause moisture problems even with the outside below grade foundation wall sealed and either an exterior or interior drainage system is nessary. Also the moisture trapped behind the latex paint or sealant could turn into a moldy nightmare.
These people dont understand that water proofing goes on the outside. This is just a bandaid till it turns into a major mess. He should have just painted the walls with a portland cement with enough water to act as a paint then skim with the same color cement of choice. Fixing the gutters and drainage issue would have been a better idea then just locking the moisture in the wall. He isnt going to see the damage till it gets really bad to and then will have to pay a huge amount of money to have the foundation repaired.
6:13 that is so satisfying
A foundation expert I would like to thank DRYLOK for causing a lot of cinder blocks to disintegrate as it traps water inside the wall. It's made me a lot of money in foundation repairs and proper waterproofing when people do DIY like this :)
What state do you do foundation repairs?
@@atthebyrdsnest161 Northern Virginia and Maryland
@@LanceZ what do you suggest to do vs this ?
@@MetalGuitar06 for cmu walls.. drill weepholes and bury lines under the slab to a sump. Keep the water out of the walls. Or waterproof from the exterior
@@LanceZ I don't know if you noticed, but the basement wall he was working on appears to be glazed block which can not drain water using weep holes like cement block can. Glazed block has horizontal air cavities not vertical, as you probably know. That's what I have in my basement of my 1901 home. So, assume that the exterior wall is both rubber sealed and has a J channel drainage system put in, what would you use to seal and improve the interior wall adjacent to that exterior wall.
Thanks for sharing your tips and recommendations in using Drylok. Another added benefit is that the 15-yr guaranty on the product is transferable to a new owner.
Why is the water dribbling out of a spout right at the exterior wall (0:54)? Wouldn't adding a downspout extension keep the water away from the house and, in turn, keep your basement drier? Good video, btw.
Good point
Exactly! Extend the gutter to lower point.
We used this paint to cover brick pillars in our fieldstone basement. It has held up really well and really brightened up the space. Now we need to figure out what to do with the cracked and nasty cellar floor.
I have about a half of my basement with Drylock Extreme. We had it tinted an off white. One side of the house is working really well, the other side is letting some moisture in because the walks on the side of the house have settled so that they drain into the side of the house. I will correct that when the weather warms. So far, I am really happy with it. It is thick but goes on and dries smooth. My basement was a lot worst then the basement in the video but now it is really starting to look nice. This is a good product.
@Tom Redd did it lower the overall humidity of you're basement?
Great video. Straight to the point. Concise with good clear direction. Thank you.
We used this exact awesome product last week in a older Pgh basement it looks fantastic !! Keep up the good work!!:)
As many comments indicate, managing and directing outside water away from the building is paramount. I used the Behr version of this and it’s been a few years now and still as good as day one. The key to success though is to remove any peeling previous coatings or loose paint as possible (if there is any). Also, ensure the cement or cinder block wall is very dry. Run a heater and dehumidifier if necessary as these products need to penetrate the porous surface where they crystalize for great adhesion and sealing so old paint left on the walls limits the new product to the vulnerability of what’s under it. Multiple thin coats as well with adequate drying time in between. Skip any part of this and you are wasting time and money.
Hello seem you know what you are doing... I am trying to do my basement floor with the wall & floor by dryloc and its a nightmare with an old 70 years floor and epoxy paint, I also used the hydroloc cement...do you have any suggestions? can I put the sealor over the epoxy over the paint...if not how do I get it off.
@@bernadettefrongillo6938 sorry to hear it’s a bear and I know the grief of removing decades old paint from concrete walls and floors. I’ve tried environmentally friendly strippers but they did nothing on the old oil paints. I’ve had great success using a disc grinder with a cup brush attachment. It’s very dusty though so be sure to wear protection etc. That is a fairly inexpensive tool if you shop around a little and it works great. If it’s a small area a heat gun and scraper/wire brush could work but the fumes are dangerous without proper ventilation and breathing protection. You certaily can risk coating over the old painted surfaces but again you’ll be at the mercy of the bonding quality of the old original product. If the old product is extremely hard to come off, then that area is probably ok to leave on there. If you do not trust the old coating to hold and it’s a big area, you are left to use an industrial strength paint/epoxy stripper that you brush/roll on. Once it’s worked it’s magic then finish with a good scrubbing and thorough rinse. Worst case scenerio is if the areas where you have to leave any previous coating ever peels, you only need strip, clean and recoat that specific area. Hope this helps.
You did a great job. Thank you for your knowledge and expertise. I'm on my way to Lowes.
If there is a substantial amount of water behind the stem wall, trying to seal the wall will only increase the amount of hydrostatic pressure which can create big issues down the road. I have been installing drainage systems for 13 years.
You are 100 percent right and I feel that corporate greed is at work here trying to fool people into thinking you can prevent water ingress in your basement by applying a sealer on the inside. The only repair from the inside should be with an expanding foam and epoxy. You should then follow up with working outside to remedy the core issue of the problem which normally is having too much water against the foundation. Simply directing water away from the home is often enough to help
@@brarautorepairs right but like he said it's landlocked, so what would your proposal be, grade the cement higher?
@@zacharykicker6436 if there is no way to direct the water away from the house then the last option is to install a sump pump inside the basement
Don’t listen to anyone who says to paint masonry. Especially in a leaky basement. All your doing is increasing the hydraulic pressure which will cause pop out and spalling.
Um no. Painting masonry protects it from corrosion. The masonry on my 1936 house has always been painted and still looks great today.
FYI: fixing negative slope is key to waterproofing the basement. Thanks for the tip about drylock paint! I recommend a jackhammer and tear up the sidewalk to create pitch away from the house (with the crushed concrete from sidewalk and class 5 gravel on top). My basement looks very similar to this but I had more mortar issue with cinderblocks. I will definitely look into drylock paint for the refinish
I used this product (or it's sister) 32 years ago. It is failing. Lesson: Belt and suspenders. My builder didn't bother to offer any advice back then so I applied (all by myself) two coats of this stuff. Worked well for quite a while.
Dude gave me exactly what I needed, quickly & without filler. Very informative video!
Helpful video. Thanks for mentioning turning off the furnace, etc..
Drylok says right in the instructions that it is NOT recommended for painted walls. It may not adhere to the wall properly. But you applied it over paint. Did it work or did it flake off in a few months?
It will stick to painted walls with no issues.
If you apply Drylok over paint doesn't the paint itself prevent the Drylok from absorbing into the concrete cinderblocks thereby wasting the Drylock paint plus wasting the $$ for the Drylock?
@@paularams665 You are right, it is better to apply Drylok on non-painted walls for maximum waterproofing.
Great video how long do i need to wait to add the second coat?
Hi! I'm from Taxachusetts. If you have water coming to the inside, you might have to seal it from the outside first, Is costly but worth it. I did this when I bought my duplex and have no problems with water coming inside. Still have humidity smell after but no water, and about two years ago I painted inside with DRYLOK and put a dehumidifier, and after all that is perfect no smell at all. If you have mold or mildew, those two are dangerous, better save than sorry. Specially If you, or any of your tenants are asthmatic, that can be a big problem, trust me, I talked from experience. Check estimates with different companies and then check with your mortgage company if you can take a loan against the house, so you can fix it the right way, I mean just a little advice. You won't regret it. Good luck with everything. 😊
I used this product for my home studio which is in my basement....I prolly used 3 or 4 coats...
put my wall up..had to romove a panel 5 monthes later for some wiring and found some mold and a good amount of efflorescence ..even in the backn of the wall panels I jad installed so now Im stumped and at a stand still on what to do 🙄.....And for the ones looking into this product notice they have a couple formulas....the first kind i bought seemed a little grittier and did allow moisture in..so I cleaned any molded spots with a wire brush and bleached thoroughly and applied more dry lock but in the "new formula" which seemed less grittier and seemed to contain more latex...so I dont know if this company goofed on their prior batches and released a newer more expensive version ($7 difference per gallon) but i used this...3 coats..left it for 2 monthes..came back..still signs of efflorescence and a few tiny mold spot and thats with no wall panel over that area.. and I figure the severity would have been worse with the panel up and no air circulation hitting it..Just hope this helps someone out cause I'm still battling this problem 🤷♂️
The only other option is basically dig up all around your basement excavation level. And do drainage and seal the outside of the foundation. We have the same. But won't do that as it will be extremely expensive and its a storage for us. And eventually that seal will go again and you'll need to do it again. It's super involved but is the way to do do it.
Please note, that when hydrostatic pressure builds up in the cinderblock, its adds weights to the wall that these cinderblock that it was not created to hold. With that being said cinderblock horizontal cracks are likely to form. If this does happen all the way down the wall, please call and expert. This process is not "waterproofing".
Not supposed to paint it over paint. I’m in agreement that over time this is likely to cause more problems. Outside wall needs the waterproofing, and not this stuff.
I went through every procedure recommended and spent a small fortune on Drylock and hydraulic cement and even an interior french drain. Not a solution because the old brick wall had many cracks and pinholes that allowed water to seep in. Ultimately I was advised that I lived on a high water table and nothing on the inside would be able to resist the pressure from outside (which can quickly compromise whatever you slap on the interior wall). The only real solution is a french drain on the outside as well as applying waterproofing membrane on the outside wall all the way down the foundation (8 feet in some cases). Don't waste your money on things like Drylock because it's mostly cosmetic to make you feel good for a year and then you'll be fighting it again year after year.
I was told that it could not be rolled on by company scientist when I used it in my basement. Very effective product.
I rolled my basement in drylok... worked fine
I’ve seen it done rolled on. As far as I could tell it worked fine. May only be a small difference. The product works regardless. It’s been a while since I’ve used it. It may have improved. The label used to say to brush on but that may only have been back when I used it.
@@manganights i didn't read the label lol its essentially paint so didn't really think i had to. oh well. I rolled it on and touched up any holes with a brush. seemed faster
The only surface that would seem different is blocks. The rough texture supposedly gets filled by tiny things like the old Superballs that used to be popular. But even on that it would protect rolled on.
@@manganights Is it still holding up? Or is it peeling off again?
And what exactly shall painting over wet walls do? Seal the water in that it degrades the walls faster? Push the water inside the walls upwards to the wood? ....
Bottom line, This is great to apply after you fix the exterior drainage issues of your home. It doesn't matter what you smear, wipe, or cover your basement wall until you actually fix the root issue, which is water staying up against your exterior basement walls. This by itself is a short term band-aid that is doomed to fail. Make sure you do your homework before you throw away your money.
AMEN!
@Cybersylo can fixing the grading around you're house not just keep water out, but will it also lower the humidity in the basement some??
@@mathewgould1047 It will help alot to have water flowing away from the home, but even then if the ground becomes saturated you still need drainage to take ground water away from the foundation.
@@cybersylo5786 when you say drainage are you referring to an internal sump pump or external French drain
@@cyberspoce04 In some instances it may be the same. An actual fix for this issue is not cheap. A water barrier and drainage system need to be applied to the exterior wall of the basement. This means a trench needs to be dug so the barrier and drain can be applied. If you are in an area where there are no natural drainage options, An exterior sump pump will be needed to pump the water to the street and off the property. If you live up north where the ground experiences a deep freeze in winter, having wet and undrained soil against the basement can actually cave in the walls to the basement and move the wall off the foundation.
It will never last!! Looking for a cheap way out!
Thank you. About to paint my basement walls with Drylock during coronatine! We’ll see how easy it is...
How did it go?
DO A FOLLOW UP VIDEO?????DID IT HOLD UP ???
Used Drylock on my walls AFTER I addressed moving water away from my foundation. It has held up for YEARS and has virtually eliminated all of my moisture issues. If you do it right, it works. Don't skimp on it, but also ignore most of these comments telling you to spend $50k to have your foundation dug up and water proofed from the outside. They had people trying to use their own man power to fix their own problems, it prevents them from being able to come into your home and price gouge you for their services.
John Vance how much and how did it take you to do?
Even on the high end of the price scale, a normal house shouldn't cost 50k to waterproof from the outside. Maybe half that and that's a big maybe. Your Drylok held up because you got the water away on the outside. Drylok on the inside is a gimmick. It only works on very minor moisture issues. And even then it's a temporary fix. Excessive moisture in the concrete will slowly soften the walls and cause the paint to lose it's adhesion. It will push off. And in rare cases, it holds too much water in the wall for too long and will cause the wall to soften to the point the block starts to crumble. At that point you'd be looking at a wall replacement. I've even seen a poured wall so soft that you can push a screwdriver through it about 4 inches. These are all things this guy doesn't know and you won't see him back here in 10 years talking about his crumbling block walls.
Since this is a block wall, an interior drainage system with the bottom blocks drilled for drainage would be much more effective. Depending on area and size, most people would be looking at between 5k and 10k for that kind of work. Do lots of contractors price gouge? Yes. Do lots of homeowners follow the advice of novices and potentially cause damage to their homes or at the very least spend money on something that doesn't work before having to hire a professional? Yes.
And while we're at it, hydraulic cement is harder than either block or poured walls. As the walls expand and contract due to temperature changes, the hydraulic cement does so less. It will eventually lose it seal in the form of micro cracks and allow water to pass through. But you can always chip it off and reapply.
i'm western pa as well and buying my first home. I'm ripping out the pittsburgh potty and wanna get my basement nice and dry so i will be using this. thank you :)
So did it work? Is it staying adhered and keeping the moisture out?
If it makes it look good enough to get it rented or sold it worked right? Can you add color to drylock?
@@matthewpoteet8876 yes you can get different colors
@@MikesGarageReviews so can I get Menards to add color to the drylok paint off the shelf or do I have to apply drylok to the basement wall first and then paint on top when the drylok when the coats are dry?
how long do I need to let the paint dry in between coats?
Finally, a video made in Pittsburgh, Pa. Thank you! I want to Dryloc my basement, but there is stucco on the walls. I tried to scrap it of, but no can do. Can I paint over the stucco, will the Dryloc be as effective?
I have the same question!!
@@kellilucito1673 me too.
I'm in Pgh, too!! My prob is I've got a sandstone foundation. When I bought this house, basement had what looked like a recent paint job, super clean, but 5yrs later it's peeling in some places - sandy, mustard-colored patches falling away. Good amount of efflorescence. Not sure how I'd prep well enough for waterproofing. Any suggestions?
@@_MomtallicA_ I found a product Masterseal, that i will use to waterproof my basement. Initially i found Tameseal, but i could not find it locally. I reached out to the Tameseal manufacturer and got a reply back. The Masterseal is the same as the Tameseal; it can be used over stucco ensuing thorough coverage. I had to order a bonding agent, it arrived on Thursday. I will be starting the project on Monday 1/11/21.
The actual name of the product is Masterseal 583, this is resistant to mold and mildew. The bonding agent is MasterEmaco A660. I special ordered both at Ace Hardware. Research.
The drylok I put on years ago needs to come off because I am going to put something new on. I used a grinder to remove this stuff and some won't come off -- I just don't know if it has to all come off for the new to adhere. When I put on the dry lock on I didn't patch the cracks so it didn't work. This time I am patching cracks. I also had some foundation work done to the outside and we put in a new French drain.
How did it hold up after 2 years? Any more spalling or efflorescence?
Looking for same
It wont, this a total slumlord solution. Exterior waterproofing, grading, and drain systems are the solution. Only after that is done properly do you want to do what he shows in this video.
Do NOT seal the interior of basement walls. If water is getting to the wall from the outside, this will just lock the water in until it comes through the wall on the inside (usually peeling the paint)
That’s not actually a proper explanation on why this could be bad… if the water pressure is high enough that it may peel the paint, then this product is already incorrect to use. Understand WHEN it’s appropriate to use this product is more important than just making all or nothing statements. If you have active water intrusion, this is not the correct product. If you have minor leaks that occur when it rains due to a high water table, this is a great solution.
@@TheHeadinchargeNo it’s not. Trapping water inside a concrete wall will cause it to deteriorate. It will leech out the lime. I’ve seen it many times. It is common knowledge in the waterproofing industry. Any moisture in the wall has to be able to get out on the negative side. Period. It doesn’t even matter if it’s an active interior leak many times it scapes in the form of vapor. That’s why many basements née dehumidifiers.
ruclips.net/video/pgA7FqD2IR8/видео.htmlsi=K7ZhuphIYTt9th11
I have an old storm shelter that does get about 6-7inches of water in it only when it rains extremely hard for a few days, but otherwise has a hairline crack around the middle circumference of the shelter that weeps some in the summer but not enough to cause water to pool. The walls are concrete slab. Do you think a product like this is a good fit?
Would like to see it after the first winter to see how it held up.
if it holds up, it means there is no real moisture problems and you can accomplish the same thing with a basic primer. Primer is better because you want the moisture to come through the wall and allow dehumidifier to work. If it is holding water behind, you will have mold growth behind the paint in the future because it is constantly wet.
It does NOT hold up. Failed within 2 months in my garage. I DID ALL the proper procedures. Still failed.water psi pushes thru and mold still grows. Internal drain and pump worked.
@@brandonschwab3692 Why would there be mold behind the block?
@@DaCake2 water/vapor barrier.. its between block and the paint- causes odor and cant hold the water pressure/water vapor back- it can for a bit and as it does hold it back- it creates moisture behind paint- that gives a food source and moisture- for example remove moisrure painr and prong with moisture meter- always higher enough to cultivate mold vs normal breatheable paint or primer water vapor passes ans can air dry
@Mike Wilhelmson i use kilz
Represent PA!! Just bought a home near New Ken and this is so helpful!!
The drylok I used was waaaay thicker than that. Was like trying to paint with caulk
@@heyjohnsmith wouldn't that would smell horrible and make a room rather unlivable??
@@suzannecogar717 the paint thinner doesn't last indefinitely. Paint is thinned all the time.
Agree with other commenters... fix the water issue and get it away from the foundation (especially that downspout that dumps right next to the wall). Generally speaking.... vertical cracks = foundation settling (expected in any basement, show up at weak points like windows, corners, etc.), horizontal cracks = bad and the wall may be pushing in. I try to chisel a square grove, not a v-notch, for my hydraulic cement. It holds better. Injectable polyurethane is what I use to seal the crack inside the wall, after I fill any major cracks with hydraulic cement, leaving removable nails in through the cement to provide port access to inject.
Can you paint over the drylok paint?
Wow-what a nice landlord you are. My landlord doesn't care the water pours in when it rains he thinks the Dehumidifier is the answer.I live in PA too.Our basement smells i am sure there is mold there.
The question is why don't you have the brains to move out of your smelly basement?
@@bigmacdaddy1234 I just got a house so don't condemn me.
@@caryn9561 Smart move. Congrats!
@@bigmacdaddy1234 Waiting for closing date still in the dump.
I'm interested to see the result sometime later. Any random paint can make a basement dry, the question is what happens not 2 or 5 years later? (They usually fail after 1-2 years)
Thanks man just what I need to do in my Pittsburgh basement…
What do you mean by "cut out a V notch" prior to using hydraulic cement? Thanks
Thank you for this very thorough and easy to follow tutorial !! Very helpful. I feel a lot more clear about what I need to do in my basement now.
Thanks for this video. It was posted in 2017. So, my question is this - how did it hold up and did it actually help with the moisture in the basement? I'm in Pittsburgh as well and have a similar situation in my basement. Thanks
We Drylocked our basement when we built our house in 1987. Just sold the house this year (Feb 2021). In 34 years we never had a problem with moisture in the basement and the paint held up quite well. Building a new home now and I'm going to Drylock the basement before I move in.
Now that its been over a year from uploading this video, is the basement waterproof for the most part? Anything you wish you would've known the first time around looking back?
It's held up well, better than I thought; that said, it's not perfect but this house is over 100 years old so other than doing a french drain this is the best I could do for now
I have the same problem with the house I grew up in and decided to keep. It's a beautiful OLD brick house like yours around 100 years old. And the foundation is built into a hill where there are springs. Your excellent suggestions are what I've started to do to eliminate mold that built up. So happy I found your video we are doing this project in phases and are ready to dry lock...however now I will add the Hydraulic cement phase to plug up miscellaneous holes. My dad had drilled targeted holes in the walls and made a trough to the drains to help the continuous tiny stream of water to go right down the drain. Oh and we've done inside AND outside french drains. Permanent? No, it was last dry locked about 15 years ago but that's not a bad result for a water issue that will never go away.
@@HomeRepairTutor you could have done a lot better using product called radonseal and then drylock on top. But that's for a future project. Radonseal will stop water from entering if done properly
I thought dry lok could not be applied on top of paint?
If you pause when he shows the instructions on the can, it says that it can be used over existing paint, but the warranty won't apply.
can we use roller to paint ? i love your video really helpful ,
Should have used epoxy injection for cracks...hydraulic cement only a temporary fix
Good to know!
Isn't it necessary to use a bonding agent before applying the hydraulic cement?
This is so helpful! It is,exactly the issue we have in our basement. Can you tell me how long ago you did this and how it has worked out? Does the moisture still seep through at all?
Don’t waste your money on DryLock. It doesn’t work and it doesn’t stop moisture or active water leaks
@@douglaubshire4102 what do you recommend then?
@@zacharykicker6436 outside waterproofing is only solution with drain pipe all over the house (weep tile) and sump pump ..this is only that will work and stop water..but not 100% even that
@@zacharykicker6436 water has to be draining away from house. Solve that first then drylock.
this job can not against iced in winter
Thanks for making this video. I found it helpful. I realize you are not making claims to be a waterproofing expert. At around 0:55 you talked about clean gutters but then showed the water leaking down right behind the sidewalk. Even a one foot extension or redirecting the gutters away from the house will make a huge difference.
noticed that too.
Hey great video! Just curious what are those black spots on the CMU wall at 2:19?
Omg this stuff is the truth. I did a room in my basement after watching this video and it does exactly what it claims. My craft room looks great.
Has it held up well?
how does it look now?
Great video. Curious what others have found when working w/ Structural Clay Tiles (telephone tiles), in older houses. Drylok is used for concrete... What have folks used for Structural Clay Tiles?
I thought you couldn't do this if the walls were already painted but I'm absolutely going to be doing this soon. Great video.
UGL does say not to paint over existing paint on the walls before using their products
Great video....can you tell me the walls where you are applying the product need to not be painted first or does it matter ?
Please do more basement videos! I have old basement JUST like this... I can't afford to completely finish it, but wondering what I can do to make it comfortable enough to be a game room or part-time bedroom.
stringX90 same, how is your project going?
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Very helpful thank you so much, this was the perfect video for my DIY 🤓
Thx for this. trying to decide on which waterproof paint will help seal leaking tile block foundation in a 1917 home i inherited. the basement runs dehumidifier all yr round but after a sewer back up, the team forget to put it back on and mold developed on the damp walls simultaneous to leaking foundation. my mold removal guy said we need latex based paint or else we render the dehumidifier useless. he also said drylok was not latex paint? just curious if you ever heard that before. good vid though and am planning to use quikrete hydraulic cement to patch the exterior holes today, interior holes tomorrow. wanting to paint Friday. but still not sure what is best.
So we can use this on drywall as well?
My husband drylocked our basement, & within a short time the drylock "bubbled up" & has made one heck of a mess falling off of the walls. Guess waterproofing the basement isn't so easy as you made it sound, but I sure wish it were.
No, it's not easy. Sounds like you didn't remedy the water issue prior to painting. If thought throwing some paint on the wall was going miraculously end you're water issue thought wrong. Nothings easy in this life. Unless you have alot of United State dollars.
My foundation is 122yrs old. I need to put in a sloping area on the east side. And I hope to pour a large slab of concrete on the back of the house. The south side has okay runoff and I need to rehang all the gutters. I only get 1-2" in certain puddles but it's enough to be super irritating 🙄. I'll get there. Thanks for the info.
At 0:55 minutes you show a downspout dripping right into the crack between the foundation and the walk. That water will go straight down the outside of the basement wall and likely into the basement. It might not be easy to reroute that water elsewhere, but it's important to do so.
I read the label on Drylok and the precautions are extraordinary. Just opening a window does not seem to suffice. Forced ventilation strikes me as minimum, and some sort of respirator is likely important as well. You do show yourself wearing a respirator -- which is more than the demonstrators in one Drylok-sponsored video do -- but this seems to me to move the use of this material out of the range of ordinary homeowners' use, as respirators must be professionally fit to one's face if they're to be effective, and, sad to say, they don't fit tightly over beards. (I've heard you can slather your beard and mustache with petroleum jelly to make the fit, but am dubious that would be good for the rubber on the respirator.)
Will drylock work over a painted wall?
yes but they require proper prep
is this product also good for wall that is exposed to sun to protect it from heavy rain ? my wall (inside) is always damp and wet during rainy season
Can you paint over the white dry lock paint with a different color?
i can apply dry lock on the outside of the house?
Franklin Lopez yes. In fact it should be used outside before being used inside
If your going to dig down to the footer. Use the correct material. Tar paint and bdry mat is the way to go.
Assuming there are no moisture issues, what should I use to make my basement walls white? Walls are the original (1971) rough gray concrete, and I'm looking for a good cosmetic solution to tide us over until we can get the basement finished. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!
Wouldn't that just trap the moisture in the blockwork??? I think you have to water proof from the outside or else your blockworks stays wet 24/7. you are reducing the life expectance of the block by trapping the moisture in the block in stead of waterproofing from the outside.
Any update how this held up over time? Looks exactly like my basement.
Did you wash the wall or just brush clean ?
Great video! How long does gas line need to be off? I'm assuming until paint is dry but could you please advise? Thanks!
Is that old white paint that you are applying dryloks to? I was reading online that dryloks does not work well when applied over paint? Can you advise?
correct
What is the black stuff on the walls with the holes is it just the color of the cement?
So here are the basics:
Walls are very strong in compression, not tension. If you "block" the water from penetrating the wall, hydrostatic pressure will build up and put too much tension force on the wall which will eventually cause wall failure.
Solution: call a professional, because drylock is a bandaid fix not a permanent solution
But what if you only have a little moisture coming through the wall and just want to touch up the paint? Is it bad to use drylock or should I just use a regular paint?
@Doug D The only thing Im worried about is I heard you can't use the drylok over existing paint, which I have. So Im tossing around the idea of just getting a dehumidifier like you suggested and using regular paint to cover the mildew and water stains? What do you think?
Are the black parts on the bricks mold?
Great video and lots of good information. I was thinking about using a HVLP to apply, do you think I would still need two coats? Thanks
would you rec drylok for a concrete block basement shower interior?
Wow! Looks SO MUCH better!
Cement is porous doesn't this paint eventually deteriorate the cement after a while?
why am I turning off the gas?