I finished my basement about 5 years ago and I did exactly what you said. Foam board with R-15 batts and I have no issues with moisture and the temperature is warm in the winter and cool in the summer. I highly recommend the same system you described.
@@loudc8651 It does in Nova Scotia, helped with a job that was done with 2 inch rigid then 2x4 wall with 4 inch bat insulation , The house was built about 40 years ago and the concrete was done very well for the era anyways. the inspector made us put vapor barrier over the studs and bat. I tried to make the point that it could would trap moisture but he wasnt having it lol. Its been 3 to 4 years now and moisture hasn't been a problem, the 2 inch rigid board makes a big difference imo. I know because I had to tear out the sheet rock on two walls up 2 feet and 4 feet on a few area to remove cat urine , plus rip up part of the floor cause cat urine creeped its way like 3 feet or so under it and pooled still wet...plus a few peices of cat pee pressure treated sill plated, other then the cat urine the walls were dry as could be... Renting to people with Cats or even dogs for that matter is scary as hell...yes YOU might be diligent in taking care of cat litter and letting dogs out etc etc...but many "Tenants" are NOT! Hope others dont have to find out which ones are which either... thinking about the stench still makes me ill. Plus the thousands of dollars to fix it.
I've moved into a 104 year old house in northern Pennsylvania, and it's down to -10° this weekend. I can't do all this upgrade this winter but I can budget for next winter to be 😊. I'll watch more videos Thanks!
My mom sprayfoamed her basement, turn if the century home. Huge improvement. Rodent issue gone, her basement is lovely to be in. Had a vetran company do it; she couldnt be happier. The floor is cold, so we threw down a badement underlayment system. Worked for her. 🎉
best thing I did in my basement reno was install 1.5 inch XPS insulation against the entire concrete wall. I glued all the seams and spray foamed the top to the rim joist and up to the floor. The basement is now the most comfortable place in the house now.
Thank you!! I moved to the U.P. Of Michigan this year. I bought a 35 year old house with an unfinished basement, that has had some minor water issues in the past. I have fixed the grading and the gutter system outside and want to finish the basement. I have been racking my brain on the best way to do it and you have answered. The foam and bat with an air gap, just in case of a leak should do the trick.
I think you hit it on the head. I have good grading north side but had some gutter issues. Mostly from pine needles. I got a better gutter cover and it made a big difference.
A lot of retro-fit basements I see have a vapor barrier "catcher" which leaves an air space between the basement floor and the side wall. If moisture finds a way through the wall it just runs down the wall and under the concrete where it is caught by a drain pipe that goes to the sump. I'd do this in a new house as well as it would be easier to install and cost almost nothing. I've found that every basement leaks sooner or later, and having multiple systems in place is worth it.
I insulated my basement back in 2010 with 2" rigid foam on the walls and R14 Roxul batts between 2x4 studs and did the same against the rim joist. 1" of rigid foam on the floor and 3/4 T&G on top of that. R24 in the walls and headers and R5 on the floor. Nice and toasty, no thermal bridging and no moisture issues. I got the 2" 4x8 sheets of foam for $20 each and the studs for $1.60 each. I don't remember how much the Roxul was. House was built in Ottawa in 1974. Poured concrete foundation. No regrets. Thanks for another great video. Cheers
Did exactly the same in 2018, lucky I finished right before Covid hit, I think I paid about $1.50 per stud (with the Menards 11% rebate lol) and something like $22 a sheet for the 2" foam. This guy popped up and I almost pooped my pants when he said foam board was $50 a sheet. I didn't do anything on the floor other than a good carpet pad in the theater room and LVP in the bar area. I don't find it to be cold at all even with the lack of floor insulation, usually around 66 degrees even when I've been gone all day and the basement heat hasn't been running.
@@penguin12902 The video is from Canada as is the first poster in this thread, so prices look higher here due to our weaker dollar. There was huge price inflation of building materials during COVID and while the price of studs dropped, other stuff is still expensive. Roxul here is around $100/bag vs $30 pre-covid. You were smart to get your Reno work done years ago plus you benefit from the energy savings all that time as well
I don’t understand. I have no manual talent and, therefore, will NEVER do any reno. And still, I watch Jeff’s video regularly. This man is incredible. He is an excellent communicator and his voice is pleasant. I love his videos!
You’re awesome by the way! Lol I am the opposite! Have renovated/built many homes been through so many good and bad situations and I still watch this man’s videos! Never to old to learn something new, an even if I already know thoroughly what the topic is! Lol I appreciate his depth and the awareness for all the people listening! The more knowledge everyone has the better off we all are!
Remember all projects are just a set of things to learn and you can go as deep as you want to. Get organized, document each step and start learning! Don't rush into the process you'll burn yourself out. Try to do more than the bare minimum, I'm thankful for this channel as it compares old techniques that our dads would teach us and how we've improved and how not that hard it is.
You, at least, have a base of knowledge to know when a contractor is trying to con you. You will also seem more well versed during conversations with them, and you will be better able to identify how you want a project completed. The more thorough you are, the better results they will give.
Excellent video! Minimum code where I’m at in Washington state is R21 for basement walls. When I finished my basement, I used 1-1/2 XPS (R-7.5), glued directly to the concrete with all joints tape sealed and gaps spray foamed, a 2x4 wall spaced 1” off of the XPS, with R15 Rockwool in the bays (total R-value of R22.5). All rim joist bays were completely sealed with XPS/spray foam. The stud wall was built on top of Dricore floor panels with two floor registers on opposite ends to allow the slab to “breathe”. The continuous air space under the floor and all the way up the stud wall prevents any condensation from drying out and the Rockwool doesn’t grow mold.
Good tips and it depends on the use of the space, but always check with local codes before you do anything. I have a 1970s house with an unheated/unfinished basement in WNY and painted concrete walls & floors I made into a workshop and laundry rooms. Living in a known semi-flood zone, I'd never completely finish mine with drywall. I started by addressing/fixing all cracks (using a great system by Applied Technologies - polyurethane expanding foam), then put up 1/2" double sided foil backed rigid foam as a vapor barrier using adhesive to hold it in-place & taping all seams, put up my walls 1/2" from the foam and on treated sills (anything in contact with concrete was treated lumber) , filled the cavities with fiberglass and put up pegboard to permit airflow. Floors were left as-is. I've seen a roughly 8-10 degree improvement during the winter months, staying at 55-60 throughout.
I did a renovation to my basement. 1.5" EPS rigid foam board glued against the concrete. Taped all seams. No air gaps. Then pressure treated bottom 2x4 over a sill gasket with spruce 2x4 stud wall and R14 roxul insulation. The extra 2x4 across the bottom was needed to allow for drywall to be screwed at the bottom. DriCore sub floor. The basement is amazing! I had a building inspector review my work. They said it was to code but suggested a 2" rigid would be better to resist possible condensation from vapor diffusion in between the hybrid wall. 1/3 , 2/3 ratio. Continuous air barrier is key and no thermal bridge. Edmonton Alberta
Question: Does the 2" rigid board count as a vapour barrier whereas the 1.5" does not? Some of my research has maybe shown that. 1.5" + Batt + vapour barrier traps moisture in the wall somewhat?
@@billjonesnation Foil faced EPS is a better vapor barrier than the unfaced XPS in this video FWIW. But no, the thicker insulation just does a better job at insulating, which in turn does a better job staving off condensation. Just the nature of the beast.
@@billjonesnation I used Plastifab Durospan EPS. It is labelled as an air barrier and has a water vapour permeance. You do not want to install a vapour barrier to a hybrid wall. Moisture that can and will migrate across although at a low rate needs to have the ability to dry. I built the 2x4 wall about 1/2" to 1" away from the rigid wall so moisture won't get trapped. You should also know the EPS foamboard is highly flammable. The roxul, drywall, and drop ceiling acts as a fire retardant.
@@billjonesnationin Ontario, 1.5” xps qualifies as non permeable and is considered a vapor barrier. If you use 1.5 or 2” foam and have sealed it correctly, you don’t need a 6 mil poly on the studs.
Your videos have been awesome, and I have watched all your videos of insulating a basement at least 2-3x each. I put rigid foam against the concrete wall leaving a half inch gap between the wall and foam board. And a half inch gap from the floor to the bottom of the board itself. But should I have put my subfloor down first under everything? And then continue with framing on top of the subfloor?
This was a perfect presentation! Jeff, just what I needed to "see" and know about pricing comparison analysis. Very happy your channel continues to do well. :) Prince Edward Island chiming in :) I will look for a recent vid you may have done on subflooring for a basement to tie in with this vid.
Builder/remodeler in Ohio for 35 years here. You do not want to use floor to ceiling fiberglass bats in your basement wall cavities. I've torn out many over the years, nearly all have had severe mold, the moisture was trapped behind the wall with no way to escape. Even if your basement is not leaking you will still have moisture build up from condensation where warm air meets cool air within the wall cavity. This is why over the years I have modified how I finish basement exterior walls. I now use 1 in thick closed cell spray foam insulation directly on the foundation walls (R6.8), which provides insulation, air infiltration protection as well as a vapor barrier (closed cell foam cannot be permeated by water). I frame 2x4 walls with a (1-in air gap behind) and finish the wall with craft-faced fiberglass bats down to frost level only (usually a little more than halfway down from the top of foundation). This is very important as it allows to necessary airflow to move behind the wall. I then install 2 8x12 relief air grills on each buried wall (top on one end bottom on the other). I have never had a customer complain about it being cold during winter nor have I had any problems with mold as a result of building using this method. I also highly recommend to my customers that they use a dehumidifier permanently in their finished basement to maintain low moisture levels over the long term. Doesn't matter how hard you try, you will never completely eliminate moisture behind the wall due to condensation. You must build in such a manner where that moisture can be removed.
Can you describe the relief vent system a little further? Thanks. I'm guessing these are facing into the room? Also I had heard 2" sf as a minimum to ensure preventing condensation but I suppose this depends how cold your winters get.
@@brettb614 all that sounds great but I live in a high plains desert and if you watch one of Jeff’s other videos he shows you how to insulate between your floor joints and if you caulk between your plate and your foundation you eliminate any moisture so the key here is to eliminate moisture coming in from the outside and in my case I don’t deal with high humidity so it also depends upon what part of the country you live in.
@brettb614, I have a walkout basement new construction with gmx exterior waterproofing. Do I need to seal the inside walls with a sealant before using a 1" closed cell foam insulation? Thanks for the info, I'm in Ohio as well and like the idea of the relief air grills and insulation down to frost level. thanks again
I did my basement in 2017 with silverboard 4x8 which was $32/sheet then and studs 16 center with roxol batts which were $54/bag then. My ceiling is 7 ft so i cut the silverboard to fit around the joist then sealed with canned foam. So glad I did, it worked out amazing. For the floor I did dimple sheet plastic, taped seams with osb screwed down ontop
I recently framed my basement first by addressing the waterproofing with moisture control cement mixture that crystallizes and blocks liquid moisture. On top of that I glued 1 1/4 ridged dura span foam taping seams then framed 2x4 2 ft on center and filled with mineral wool batts. The place to use spray foam is the joist space above your top plates, this is a challenging space to insulate. Thanks for your advice
Did the rigid foam behind the walls based on another of your videos. For the joist area I also used blocks of rigid foam cut to fit and filled any gaps around the edges with spray foam from a can. A pro nozzle makes this easy.
Wow! Great video and exactly what I needed to see. However, when was this filmed? The same Rigid Foam Insulation at HD is $85/sheet, not $50. And I'm in Ontario.
Appreciate this - being from Canada as well it leaves me with a bit more comfort knowing that the prices should be relatively the same - and that I don't need to add 20% due to American pricing! Cheers mate
20yrs ago for the times I did what Shell Busey advised. Bead of caulk across the top of the wall then wrap your vapour barrier around the 2x4 wall behind and in front to the top. This is a good video.
Man , your videos are super helpful , I’ve gotten multiple projects done in a better way thanks to your channel and this one helps tons to have a better idea of what to do for an appropriate insulation of the basement , although I will have to do a bit more because of a few cracks on the wall and sadly I didn’t see a video of that’s sort of thing on your channel , is that something you are working on ? Either way thank you for creating such a great content and will probably end up joining you on your patreon !! Thanks again , cheers from AB !!
I'm probably just not understanding, but if you have an air gap behind the rigid foam and under the wall to allow airflow and water management, how is the insulation keeping the cold out if it can transfer straight to the air gap and seep under the framing?
To insulate the rim joist, I took heavy duty construction debris bags stuffed with insulation and jammed them into the joist. This kept the insulation dry, clean, and pest free while being able to be removed to check for other problems. Don't know if it was the 'best' insulation solution but seemed to work while keeping problem solving options available if problems developed.
I always was told that the vapor barrier should be on the hottest side of the wall. If you build a hybrid system with some kind of foam insulation and tape the joints (as suggested) and put your fiberglass insulation on top of that are you not creating a vapor barrier in between the wall? Are you adding a vapor barrier, furring strips and drywall? BTW, I find all your videos very informative and educational. Keep up the great work.
Insulation great topic. Jeff I am a big fan of yours and Matt Risinger. Question I am looking to do a complete remodel of a 1988 home and I would like to Insulate the exterior by removing the siding and replacing windows and doors. Do you know of any video examples of people doing a remodel that is this extensive. Thank you for all the great videos.
I've been using rigid foam as a thermal break in my basements for years. I use 2", frame up against it, and fill the studs bays with R-14. I also use a double P. T. plate with weeps for drainage. Makes baseboard installation go way batter to.
Hi Jeff I dont quite get the air gap behind the foam board with the aire gap below. Wouldnt the air in the basement creep underneath and touch the cold concrete causing condensation?
He's got an older video where he installs the gap and says to also install some type of subfloor with air and water cavities under them. I'm assuming that would keep the room air in the room, and the only air going through the wall gap would be the cold air underneath the subfloor.
This is where I'm confused. I had this exact scenario. Xps installed on my new house basement walls with tape over the seams and an unfinished floor. The gap between floor and xps wasn't sealed. I could feel air movement at the top of the board. I pulled the xps off last winter and found moisture on a lot of wall space due to the cold concrete wall and warm inside air. I had the xps redone and bottom sealed with caulking. I think the airflow from bottom seams pulled warm air up the wall and condensed near the top where it was colder and eventually would've cause mold issues. I now cannot feel air movement at the top of the boards since I sealed the bottom gap.
@@youtoldharpotobeatme5023does the subflooring have a really good air seal? If not wouldn't moisture still get thru and behind the wall and lead to hidden mold problems behind the wall foam and under the sub flooring?
@@mleachx1If not sealed at top and bottom air can still flow in and out from the top, depositing moisture on the wall and later carrying spores back into the ceiling space and eventually living space, correct?
@@geode232that's the exact issue i had. Warm air ran under the foam board and as it traveled to the wall it condensed at the top of the board. In 2 spots i had wet marks were it was enough condensation to drip down the wall. This was how i eventually found the issue. I now have my bottom and top sealed after builder replaced the xps boards.
I question having spaces that allow air to flow vertically around the insulation. I once saw a house report, during IR training class, the initial owner complaint was that the home would not heat. Per an IR scan, it appeared that the home had no wall insulation. Inspecting the walls found that the builder had cut the insulation short at the top and bottom, seemingly on purpose. The result was leaving channels for the air to flow vertically around the insulation. Warm air rises and cooler air falls. Bottom line is that insulation works by trapping air and not allowing it to travel. Please consider.
Hi I’m in a America Maryland, I usually see almost all ur videos but this video convinced me .. I want to be sure that this roles for Canada only right?! Not for America
In SW Ontario I have used sprayfoam contractors that cost about the same per board foot as those kits. For what it's worth, it's a good option to hire out as opposed to DIY sprayfoam. Last pricing I had was about $4.50 per board foot at 3-3.5 inches thick.
Recently redid my whole basement with 2 inch foam boards and 2x4 walls with R15 rockwool. Same system in the rim joist and joist bay sections, and dricore subflloors. I can really feel the difference in temperature, but the humidity levels also are more stable through the year. I'm kind of curious of what the concrete look behing all this, after a couple years.
We did some exterior waterproofing. We watched our bsmt walls for about a yr. Then framed everything. Then spray foamed. Its possible there will be a water event but that would be strange. Spray foam was 1800$ for 21 by 35 ft. It took 2.5 hours. The difference of humidity or pressure was immediate. I dont regret that. Now in another house I glued the 2 inch foam to the concrete. That could be a Mistake
Thank you for the video - this was by far the most informational and detailed breakdown of basement insulation! I need some of my contractors to watch this...
Hi. I like everything you do about everything. The problem that concerns me about basements in Canada is radon gas. I think this should be talked about before finishing any basement. Thanks a lot for your amazing videos.
@@KevinMaxwell-o3twhat do you mean with subfloor ventilation? I am having an issue with radon in my basement and the previous owner just covered the subfloor with floating flooring so I can’t see if there are cracks or anything that is going on. Thanks in advance ❤
@@wonderwonder30I'm pretty sure it has to be below the concrete - probably perforated piping network tied to an extractor fan constantly pulling creating negative pressure below the concrete. I don't imagine it can be done with subflooring which is just the support layer immediately below the finished floor but Above the concrete floor
If you leave an airflow gap at the bottom of the insulation board and spray foam seal at the rim joist, where does the air flow to? And if warm moist air (perhaps from a basement shower) is pulled in that airflow gap at the bottom and up behind the foam board it will condense to water on the cold CMUs then down the road mold, correct?
The air doesn’t have to flow, it just needs the ability to move. The process of doing this right would eliminate any potential of inside room air ever coming into contact with the air gap behind the xps. First, the foam, then the subfloor, seal the 1/4” gap between the foam and subfloor with low expansion foam or acoustic sealant and sheathing tape to maintain air movement between the wall and floor systems. Then build your stud walls on top of the subfloor. The key takeaway from all of this is, the foam on the walls must be 100% sealed at the seams to the joist cavities with an expanding closed cell foam sealant.
Extremely timely video! One question. I know a construction site supervisor who says the tyvek should be flipped around due to its properties. Any truth to it?
Great video, but I was wondering if we can some videos on insulated the floors and ceilings. I live in Atlanta, Georgia and I'm in the process of renovating my basement. I have cinder block walls. I appreciate your professionalism. Thanks
I don't recommend thermal insulation in floors but I do love sound barrier insulation. the mineral wool product from rockwool in a ceiling is much more dense and as such allows heat to pass through as it has less air pockets. and it eats sound travelling from above. on the floor using a product like DMX 1 step underlayment gives you a thermal break and an air space to it keeps things warm and dry. Cheers!
Thank you for all of your amazing videos!! Question for you, from a moisture standpoint, why is it critical to tape the joints in the rigid foam board if you’re leaving an air gap at the bottom anyways? Also, if a gap is left at the bottom for airflow is it required to seal the top of the foam board in the case of a spray foamed rim joist, or can it stay unsealed if you were to instal a piece of rigid foam in the rim joist? Thank you!!
As usual, informative video! Based on info in video, I now have a plan to install the following in my OLD house: foam board with glue stand offs against outside walls, 2x4 stud walls (R19 insulated) on top of Dricore R+ subfloor (properly spaced from walls) topped with water resistant (?) laminate flooring. Thoughts? Thanks again!
I like your hybrid solution. For 1950s houses with non-insulated floors, what do you suggest if we want to do an epoxy floor? Is that doable with the hybrid walls? I was thinking heated slab over a small thickness insulation covered by self leveling concrete and epoxy finish.
In addition to 'basic' Styrofoam sheets, there's also reflective foil-coated Styrofoam (SilverBoard is one brand), that offers a bit higher R-value for the same thickness. They have micro-perforations to help manage moisture transmission. You mentioned the renovation must have at least as high an R-Value as the rest of the house. However, I don't think it is a problem to go with a higher R-Value for the reno. When building a new home, there are lots of options to attain high R-values in the construction materials you choose. One is Insulated Concrete Forms (ICF's). They are forms of Styrofoam and reinforced plastic 'webs' that stack much like Lego Blocks, so the construction is relatively fast. Rebar is placed on the webs inside the blocks as they are stacked, then concrete is pumped inside the centre of the ICF built wall, to provide a Reinforced concrete structure with insulating foam panels on both outer sides of the wall. Many advantages, such as superior strength (hurricane proof), great insulation, quick build, and no additional insulation required, which offset the slightly higher materials costs for the ICF's and Concrete. Bottom line is your home is typically better insulated, structurally superior, and thus of inherently higher value than other building techniques.
Can you provide information on the do it yourself spray foam? I would to review the CCMC report on the R value, vapour barrier properties, etc. Or is this product truly only an air seal? Thank you
Merry Christmas to you as well. 25 is going to be the best year this channel has ever seen. Looking forward to sharing my forever home renovation videos. Cheers!
Do you think a hybrid insulation would be the best option for the exterior of a mobile home. My mobile home has no vapor barrier. I'm planning on putting up plywood and foam board insulation. Plus, use spray foam to insulate the 2x4 walls then install rockwool insulation around that
Jeff, if I've watched one of your vids, I've watch 100! you should have been a high school shop teacher. Question: Just purchased an old hunting camp turned year round. Beautiful, varying width vert. pine interior 2x4 studs 16 O/C, 1x8's for sheathing, and 1/4 logs for siding. To my surprise and disappointment the walls have a black paper faced 1" thick fiberglass batts stapled mid 2x4 stud cavity. I was going to dense pack the walls when I resided. How the heck do I upgrade the cavity insulation with this 1 inch thick batts in the walls?
How would you tie the subfloor into the wall insulation to create a continuous thermal break? Especially it leaving a gap where you shimmed it? Slide dricore against it and caulk? Dimple mat underneath and can foam the gap where they meet? Maybe I'm over thinking it
I have the same question. I understand the need for water management, but doesn't having an open air channel from concrete wall to the interior defeat the purpose? It seems like an obvious way for cold air to come right into the living space.
@cmango8668 or worse- a channel for moist air to deposit water on the cold CMUs , later growing mold and the same air exchange bringing spores into the living area
@@baltoravens1 Yeah- if you're leaving the floor unfinished, it seems silly to leave a gap at the bottom for cold air to come right in. I would just use foam board up against the concrete all the way to the floor. If moisture penetration is a problem and you want more R-value, use another layer of foam board on top of that. The pink 2" Foamular board has an R-value of 10.
@Home RenoVision DIY: If I use a dimpled underlayment for the basement floor, should my wall studs be on top of that underlayment or should the underlayment butt up against the bottom plate of the studded wall? Thx
It's so nice having access to that new home feel. No cold drafts, real sound proofing, proper lighting and warm floors that don't creak at every step. it's sad that in Ottawa the next wrung up on the property ladder went from an extra 100k to now 350k. At 50+ I can't be bothered with a mortgage for that long. You have provided the solution. Basement suite, half bath to a full bath and then the kitchen remodel. Probably cost about 70k when it's all done. I'm even putting in the upgrades for single floor living when I am really old. You really do redeem the internet Jeff. I hope you and your family have a good Christmas.🎄🎅🎁
My main concern with the froth kits is nit mixing properly. The small cans that are premixed are commercially mixed and exact. Even getting a pro company to come in and spray foam can be dodgy. The off gassing that occurs "should" only be a couple days however if not an exact mix, corrected for temp and everything else, you could have off gassing for years as your r value goes down as well. Ive pulled apart many walls that were spray foamed to find it completely desintigrated. The eps, xps or any of the commercial sheets again are very precise and tested so minimal off gassing and degredation. Eps, although less r value would be the most environentally and pocket book feiendly.
You mentioned at the beginning that minimum code is that your basement only needs to be the same R value as the upstairs. So house is older and upstairs is 2x4 walls then basement is to be R14. Would you suggest to insulate any more than R14 in the basement if the main floor insulation was never upgraded?
👍🇨🇦 i bought a house from 91 .. but made the quebec way in some ways of tue structure. Wires over the door frames.. 2x6 walls up stairs strapping for exterior.. interior ways and basement walls are 2x3.. i salavged the framing cause alot of them twisted. I managed to fix them and changed a few beyond fixing.. ill go with spray cause i only got 3 inches plus 1 and a half feet inches behind that till the cement foundation.
I have a 40 year old permanent wood foundation. It's warm and dry. Very low humidity. Used batt insulation in between wall studs in finished area , to include full bath. plus vapor barrier, sheet rock. Only a couple of duct registers keep the whole (2000 sf) space warm.
Great Video I live in a 1991 Oakville Ontario house and plan to insulate the basement in the new Year, Plan is not to finish the basement floor, what changes from this video would you recommend I do?
Great things to consider, overall I think the best for me is the middle one, just adding the resealing of my concrete foundation, because I'm not really looking to turn my basement into a finished floor of this old house of mine, I just want to reseal the concrete and get it to stay warm enough so that not only are my chickens content down there in the winter time(they're quite happy when it's as low as 40°F) but I am too, in another room where I'll have a heater on & to get those cluckers happier in the summer by keeping out that high heat that they struggle in.
Im curious if I do the hybrid method with foam board and air gap behind, can I still spray foam my rim joist without trapping the moisture ? I would essentially be sealing off where the foam board meets at the top of the wall. Thanks!
I live in Pittsburgh Pa. I get a little wetness/ puddling every couple years after a torrential rain. Otherwise dry. Rigid foam? R=value id need? Thickness? At all? Stuff is too expensive. Keep the vids rolling. Lots of people rely on your great stuff.
As an old home DiYer i agree with the foam board. Because right now i have cinder block. So i can foam board this year for x then next winter or the following stud it out. Addingy gains year after year
For the Hybrid option (Rigid Foam and Batts), Should you still leave a gap under the bottom plate for air flow like you mentioned in the second method (2x6 with batts). I believe code in Windsor Ontario where I reside it is 2" foam, then 2x4 studs 16" on centre and then r12 batts. Im not sure I will be allowed to add the space for airflow under the bottom plate? Thanks!
My house was built in 1950 with cement poured foundation walls. It unfortunately has a dirt floor basement too. Whoever owned it before me put some sort of barrier paper and plastic down, added 2x3 wood floor framing, and then osb sheet board to create a raised floor. Can I do all this wall insulation and framing with the current raised floor, or is that not advisable? Thank you.
Weird question here. I recently read "Fire Weather" by John Vaillant. There's a lot of new information coming out about how newer housing, which is reliant on polymer based building materials: mastics, vinyl siding, Corian counters, etc. has reduced complete burn times from 8 hours down to two. How does rockwool compare to synthetics like the foam board and fiberglass in fire resistance? BTW if you haven't read this book AND live/build in North America, it should be required.
I saw a sheet of DuroSpan GPS10 (2" & R10) @ $60 in your video. Owens Corning Codebord (1½" thick & R7.5)@ $50, but HD sells DuroSpan (1½" thick & R5.63) @$33. Is there anything wrong with using DuroSpan? Is it the lower R value that disqualifies it (unless you did an R20 Batt)? Great vids! Im in Nova Scotia and love watching videos that use products I can source in Canada, and your estimates are Canadian prices. Thank you!
Hi Jeff, really love the videos! In the rigid foam + batt install; can we just drywall over that in Ontario, or do we need to consider a smart barrier before drywall? Thx
the govt talks about a "smart barrier" in their literature however there is no such product on the market yet. LOL. if you are getting inspected then you still need a poly 6mm stapled only to the studs. It should be removed from the code when using rigid foam and air sealing the rim joist but the wheels move slow. Cheers!
Jeff, nice job with the videos as always. Do you think painting the walls with a waterproof paint like dry loc is worth it before insulation, or are those types of products just snake oil?
I used the spay foam kit in an old home years ago & others 💯Believer It made the walls so solid & cut the heat bill in half. It has a dugout basement with block walls & cement floor, did the block walls as well the next winter. Never had a problem looks new to this day & always dry ..Cold windy wet winters in South Dakota . Other contractors believers in these parts & use after ..Old home can't go wrong 👍
Key is to use closed cell but it's important to apply at right temperature. Even better to get a contractor that knows what they are doing for right price. I will never go back to batt for basement. Having said that, the hybrid setup is ok and still would work.
@@TechPlanetMusic Exactly. 💯 My situation on used on couple old homes in cold & windy state. I'm happy with closed cell..most are 2x4 walls as you know. The kits held up perfectly , even made walls stronger . Used on basement dug out block walls after 7 years believe its been now living in.👍 . The basement was so cold before & cold went threw the floor was part of it think. I will never go back to batt either
@@TechPlanetMusic Last thing a place called Grow South Dakota that builds homes or helps others get into homes , they checked it out & started using it ..
Would you still do the pressure treated stack at the bottom of the framing with the foam board method for moisture management in an older home? Understand the better flooring solutions side, just thinking that would create a barrier at the floor.
With the rigid foam/ bat system, do you guys still use a plastic Vapor barrier under the Sheetrock? I am also assuming Sheetrock is installed on forences on exterior wall? Thank you
What is your opinion regarding option 3, but using steel studs? Galvanized steel studs are dimensionally perfect and rot proof. Thermal bridging is avoided if rigid foam used first.
what about OLD concrete block 1939 -Minnesota winters, block painted with regular paint, some crumbling, efflorescence but relatively good condition for age...(must run a dehumidifier or 2 all summer) can just go ahead and do foam boards and proceed, or need to do anything else to the blocks?? It will be a completely separate issue - concrete floor is a bowl to drain.... watching your other videos trying to figure out that and if we should do self leveling and elevate most of basement, leaving a step down around drain for when it inevitably backs up, but keep it from going 5 feet out from drain into living space. Previous owners in 70's? built out a wall a foot from drain that bottom gets wet every time there is a back-up and glued shag carpet to the floor - that we removed painstakingly. Trying not to spend the big bucks on something that's not worth it, but trying to have steps to work on over time to make it more comfortable. Hahaha and half the rim joists have batt insulation stuffed in them, half have chunks of foam boards in them. Looking to remove that and spray foam too. Any additional tips for the dungeon appreciated!
Hi harry. unfaced insulation is used in places where we need to have a plastic barrier attached as a vapor barrier after fiberglass install. if we had the paper which is a vapor barrier as well then we would have 2 stuck together and that leads to condensation behind the plastic. not a good thing at all. each different region has its own building code for many reasons like this. Cheers!
Need ideas!! I’m really curious to what second option looks finished with the air gap on bottom. Would this be an option for a basement with efflorescence? It’s 80 year old house. Basement foundation was definitely NOT water proofed from the outside.
My Missouri house is 103 years old with a limestone block foundation. If it rains the extremely hard, the limestone blocks seep a bit but there is a French drain in the basement…. None of the joists are insulated or anything. What would you recommend as a good system that won’t put the house at risk for any kind of rotting and whatnot if I insulate?
question for you.... your third option 27.00 dollar option. 2*4 is not on the concrete floor, no pink seal, if I wanted to place laminate on the concrete would I just place it next to the drywall or under the drywall? so no subflooring
I’m in SW Ontario, in an older house (ungrounded electrical system) & my basement is freezing. We are in sandy soil & to the best of my knowledge, there has never been a problem with water (no sump pump). Do I still need to worry about air flow behind the insulation?
One day old video so hopefully my question gets answered. I live in pa and have 5ft crawlspace made with stone foundation. Water comes in when it rains in some spots. Question is, do i cement crawlspace from inside or dig outside around house and cement that instead. Wife says i have to watch doing it bc it can cause hydrostatic. I say, when the House was built they didn't Care too much about making sure water did not get in crawl space and adding enough cement between stones. And I don't want to do a French drain because I have a problem with allowing water to come in my crawl space knowing it's behind the vapor barrier and still getting in. Another solution could be just to buy one of those large drums of expansion from and spraying on the inside but not sure if it will stick that well to the stones unless I clean out well enough between them for it to stick. Any insight will be most appreciated but just looking for some type of direction of professional insight. Thx
Hey Gadday Eh!, just watch this series on insulation and it was very enlightening. Thanks much. What i did notice however at the end of your vid, you added a bit about for a minimal fee, you could provide some useful tips on construction and code issues while building one’s own project. What a great idea that is , I’m sure some could capitalize on your experience and know how. Keep the videos going, i know a lot of people that are watching you and use your vids as the stepping stone for their projects. Good work. Merry Xmas and a very happy new year.
I finished my basement about 5 years ago and I did exactly what you said. Foam board with R-15 batts and I have no issues with moisture and the temperature is warm in the winter and cool in the summer. I highly recommend the same system you described.
Thanks for sharing! Great job!
Does rigid foam and bat insulation need to be covered with plastic Vapor barrier or not in Barrie Ontario ?
@@loudc8651 I don’t know. I don’t live in Canada
@@loudc8651 if you use 2" foam board, then you do not, if you have anything thinner than 2" xps, then you do or you will fail inspection.
@@loudc8651 It does in Nova Scotia, helped with a job that was done with 2 inch rigid then 2x4 wall with 4 inch bat insulation , The house was built about 40 years ago and the concrete was done very well for the era anyways. the inspector made us put vapor barrier over the studs and bat. I tried to make the point that it could would trap moisture but he wasnt having it lol. Its been 3 to 4 years now and moisture hasn't been a problem, the 2 inch rigid board makes a big difference imo. I know because I had to tear out the sheet rock on two walls up 2 feet and 4 feet on a few area to remove cat urine , plus rip up part of the floor cause cat urine creeped its way like 3 feet or so under it and pooled still wet...plus a few peices of cat pee pressure treated sill plated, other then the cat urine the walls were dry as could be... Renting to people with Cats or even dogs for that matter is scary as hell...yes YOU might be diligent in taking care of cat litter and letting dogs out etc etc...but many "Tenants" are NOT! Hope others dont have to find out which ones are which either... thinking about the stench still makes me ill. Plus the thousands of dollars to fix it.
I've moved into a 104 year old house in northern Pennsylvania, and it's down to -10° this weekend. I can't do all this upgrade this winter but I can budget for next winter to be 😊. I'll watch more videos
Thanks!
My mom sprayfoamed her basement, turn if the century home.
Huge improvement. Rodent issue gone, her basement is lovely to be in.
Had a vetran company do it; she couldnt be happier.
The floor is cold, so we threw down a badement underlayment system. Worked for her. 🎉
best thing I did in my basement reno was install 1.5 inch XPS insulation against the entire concrete wall. I glued all the seams and spray foamed the top to the rim joist and up to the floor. The basement is now the most comfortable place in the house now.
Thank you!! I moved to the U.P. Of Michigan this year. I bought a 35 year old house with an unfinished basement, that has had some minor water issues in the past. I have fixed the grading and the gutter system outside and want to finish the basement. I have been racking my brain on the best way to do it and you have answered.
The foam and bat with an air gap, just in case of a leak should do the trick.
Cheers Happy to be of help!
I think you hit it on the head. I have good grading north side but had some gutter issues.
Mostly from pine needles. I got a better gutter cover and it made a big difference.
A lot of retro-fit basements I see have a vapor barrier "catcher" which leaves an air space between the basement floor and the side wall. If moisture finds a way through the wall it just runs down the wall and under the concrete where it is caught by a drain pipe that goes to the sump. I'd do this in a new house as well as it would be easier to install and cost almost nothing. I've found that every basement leaks sooner or later, and having multiple systems in place is worth it.
I love UP.
I insulated my basement back in 2010 with 2" rigid foam on the walls and R14 Roxul batts between 2x4 studs and did the same against the rim joist. 1" of rigid foam on the floor and 3/4 T&G on top of that. R24 in the walls and headers and R5 on the floor. Nice and toasty, no thermal bridging and no moisture issues. I got the 2" 4x8 sheets of foam for $20 each and the studs for $1.60 each. I don't remember how much the Roxul was. House was built in Ottawa in 1974. Poured concrete foundation. No regrets. Thanks for another great video. Cheers
Wow, it is absolutely infuriating to see what 2"x4'x8' foam board *used* to cost.
Did exactly the same in 2018, lucky I finished right before Covid hit, I think I paid about $1.50 per stud (with the Menards 11% rebate lol) and something like $22 a sheet for the 2" foam. This guy popped up and I almost pooped my pants when he said foam board was $50 a sheet. I didn't do anything on the floor other than a good carpet pad in the theater room and LVP in the bar area. I don't find it to be cold at all even with the lack of floor insulation, usually around 66 degrees even when I've been gone all day and the basement heat hasn't been running.
@@penguin12902 The video is from Canada as is the first poster in this thread, so prices look higher here due to our weaker dollar. There was huge price inflation of building materials during COVID and while the price of studs dropped, other stuff is still expensive. Roxul here is around $100/bag vs $30 pre-covid. You were smart to get your Reno work done years ago plus you benefit from the energy savings all that time as well
the timing of this video couldn't have been ANY better. We were wanting to start next month, and this is great insight, thanks!
Glad it was helpful! Cheers!
Haven't watched your content in a few years, but glad to see that you are still kicking it! Nearly 4million subs.... brilliant.
This guy is making bank with 4 million subs. I suspect around $ 20 K a month off of Utube revenue.
I don’t understand. I have no manual talent and, therefore, will NEVER do any reno. And still, I watch Jeff’s video regularly. This man is incredible. He is an excellent communicator and his voice is pleasant. I love his videos!
You’re awesome by the way! Lol
I am the opposite! Have renovated/built many homes been through so many good and bad situations and I still watch this man’s videos! Never to old to learn something new, an even if I already know thoroughly what the topic is! Lol I appreciate his depth and the awareness for all the people listening! The more knowledge everyone has the better off we all are!
If you ever find the courage to undertake a project, you will know who to thank.
Remember all projects are just a set of things to learn and you can go as deep as you want to. Get organized, document each step and start learning! Don't rush into the process you'll burn yourself out.
Try to do more than the bare minimum, I'm thankful for this channel as it compares old techniques that our dads would teach us and how we've improved and how not that hard it is.
You, at least, have a base of knowledge to know when a contractor is trying to con you. You will also seem more well versed during conversations with them, and you will be better able to identify how you want a project completed. The more thorough you are, the better results they will give.
That's the same reason people watch sports.
Excellent video! Minimum code where I’m at in Washington state is R21 for basement walls. When I finished my basement, I used 1-1/2 XPS (R-7.5), glued directly to the concrete with all joints tape sealed and gaps spray foamed, a 2x4 wall spaced 1” off of the XPS, with R15 Rockwool in the bays (total R-value of R22.5). All rim joist bays were completely sealed with XPS/spray foam. The stud wall was built on top of Dricore floor panels with two floor registers on opposite ends to allow the slab to “breathe”. The continuous air space under the floor and all the way up the stud wall prevents any condensation from drying out and the Rockwool doesn’t grow mold.
Good tips and it depends on the use of the space, but always check with local codes before you do anything. I have a 1970s house with an unheated/unfinished basement in WNY and painted concrete walls & floors I made into a workshop and laundry rooms. Living in a known semi-flood zone, I'd never completely finish mine with drywall.
I started by addressing/fixing all cracks (using a great system by Applied Technologies - polyurethane expanding foam), then put up 1/2" double sided foil backed rigid foam as a vapor barrier using adhesive to hold it in-place & taping all seams, put up my walls 1/2" from the foam and on treated sills (anything in contact with concrete was treated lumber) , filled the cavities with fiberglass and put up pegboard to permit airflow. Floors were left as-is. I've seen a roughly 8-10 degree improvement during the winter months, staying at 55-60 throughout.
I did a renovation to my basement. 1.5" EPS rigid foam board glued against the concrete. Taped all seams. No air gaps. Then pressure treated bottom 2x4 over a sill gasket with spruce 2x4 stud wall and R14 roxul insulation. The extra 2x4 across the bottom was needed to allow for drywall to be screwed at the bottom. DriCore sub floor. The basement is amazing! I had a building inspector review my work. They said it was to code but suggested a 2" rigid would be better to resist possible condensation from vapor diffusion in between the hybrid wall. 1/3 , 2/3 ratio. Continuous air barrier is key and no thermal bridge. Edmonton Alberta
Question: Does the 2" rigid board count as a vapour barrier whereas the 1.5" does not? Some of my research has maybe shown that. 1.5" + Batt + vapour barrier traps moisture in the wall somewhat?
@@billjonesnation Foil faced EPS is a better vapor barrier than the unfaced XPS in this video FWIW. But no, the thicker insulation just does a better job at insulating, which in turn does a better job staving off condensation. Just the nature of the beast.
@@billjonesnation I used Plastifab Durospan EPS. It is labelled as an air barrier and has a water vapour permeance. You do not want to install a vapour barrier to a hybrid wall. Moisture that can and will migrate across although at a low rate needs to have the ability to dry. I built the 2x4 wall about 1/2" to 1" away from the rigid wall so moisture won't get trapped. You should also know the EPS foamboard is highly flammable. The roxul, drywall, and drop ceiling acts as a fire retardant.
@@billjonesnationin Ontario, 1.5” xps qualifies as non permeable and is considered a vapor barrier. If you use 1.5 or 2” foam and have sealed it correctly, you don’t need a 6 mil poly on the studs.
Did you use 16" centres
Your videos have been awesome, and I have watched all your videos of insulating a basement at least 2-3x each. I put rigid foam against the concrete wall leaving a half inch gap between the wall and foam board. And a half inch gap from the floor to the bottom of the board itself. But should I have put my subfloor down first under everything? And then continue with framing on top of the subfloor?
This was a perfect presentation! Jeff, just what I needed to "see" and know about pricing comparison analysis. Very happy your channel continues to do well. :) Prince Edward Island chiming in :) I will look for a recent vid you may have done on subflooring for a basement to tie in with this vid.
I live in a country where there is no need for any of this and I totally enjoyed listening to this! Jeff is a very good teacher.
Cheers Juliet!
Where is from? Somewhere warm I take it?
@@TheUniverse915probably somewhere very very cold year round
As I read this, it is about -7 here. So, ya it kinda effects me. A nice and warm place sounds good right now.
@@TheUniverse915 The Caribbean.
Builder/remodeler in Ohio for 35 years here. You do not want to use floor to ceiling fiberglass bats in your basement wall cavities. I've torn out many over the years, nearly all have had severe mold, the moisture was trapped behind the wall with no way to escape.
Even if your basement is not leaking you will still have moisture build up from condensation where warm air meets cool air within the wall cavity. This is why over the years I have modified how I finish basement exterior walls. I now use 1 in thick closed cell spray foam insulation directly on the foundation walls (R6.8), which provides insulation, air infiltration protection as well as a vapor barrier (closed cell foam cannot be permeated by water). I frame 2x4 walls with a (1-in air gap behind) and finish the wall with craft-faced fiberglass bats down to frost level only (usually a little more than halfway down from the top of foundation). This is very important as it allows to necessary airflow to move behind the wall. I then install 2 8x12 relief air grills on each buried wall (top on one end bottom on the other). I have never had a customer complain about it being cold during winter nor have I had any problems with mold as a result of building using this method. I also highly recommend to my customers that they use a dehumidifier permanently in their finished basement to maintain low moisture levels over the long term.
Doesn't matter how hard you try, you will never completely eliminate moisture behind the wall due to condensation. You must build in such a manner where that moisture can be removed.
Can you describe the relief vent system a little further? Thanks.
I'm guessing these are facing into the room? Also I had heard 2" sf as a minimum to ensure preventing condensation but I suppose this depends how cold your winters get.
@@brettb614 all that sounds great but I live in a high plains desert and if you watch one of Jeff’s other videos he shows you how to insulate between your floor joints and if you caulk between your plate and your foundation you eliminate any moisture so the key here is to eliminate moisture coming in from the outside and in my case I don’t deal with high humidity so it also depends upon what part of the country you live in.
@brettb614, I have a walkout basement new construction with gmx exterior waterproofing. Do I need to seal the inside walls with a sealant before using a 1" closed cell foam insulation? Thanks for the info, I'm in Ohio as well and like the idea of the relief air grills and insulation down to frost level. thanks again
I did my basement in 2017 with silverboard 4x8 which was $32/sheet then and studs 16 center with roxol batts which were $54/bag then. My ceiling is 7 ft so i cut the silverboard to fit around the joist then sealed with canned foam. So glad I did, it worked out amazing. For the floor I did dimple sheet plastic, taped seams with osb screwed down ontop
wow this guy knows what he is saying, it's so refreshing to find a video where your getting expert advice.
I recently framed my basement first by addressing the waterproofing with moisture control cement mixture that crystallizes and blocks liquid moisture. On top of that I glued 1 1/4 ridged dura span foam taping seams then framed 2x4 2 ft on center and filled with mineral wool batts. The place to use spray foam is the joist space above your top plates, this is a challenging space to insulate. Thanks for your advice
Did the rigid foam behind the walls based on another of your videos. For the joist area I also used blocks of rigid foam cut to fit and filled any gaps around the edges with spray foam from a can. A pro nozzle makes this easy.
Wow! Great video and exactly what I needed to see. However, when was this filmed? The same Rigid Foam Insulation at HD is $85/sheet, not $50. And I'm in Ontario.
Appreciate this - being from Canada as well it leaves me with a bit more comfort knowing that the prices should be relatively the same - and that I don't need to add 20% due to American pricing! Cheers mate
20yrs ago for the times I did what Shell Busey advised. Bead of caulk across the top of the wall then wrap your vapour barrier around the 2x4 wall behind and in front to the top. This is a good video.
Wow. One of the ABSOLUTE BEST explanations on the entire internet. Thank you.
Did the hybrid system and we are really happy with it, basement is nice a cozy
Man , your videos are super helpful , I’ve gotten multiple projects done in a better way thanks to your channel and this one helps tons to have a better idea of what to do for an appropriate insulation of the basement , although I will have to do a bit more because of a few cracks on the wall and sadly I didn’t see a video of that’s sort of thing on your channel , is that something you are working on ?
Either way thank you for creating such a great content and will probably end up joining you on your patreon !! Thanks again , cheers from AB !!
I'm probably just not understanding, but if you have an air gap behind the rigid foam and under the wall to allow airflow and water management, how is the insulation keeping the cold out if it can transfer straight to the air gap and seep under the framing?
To insulate the rim joist, I took heavy duty construction debris bags stuffed with insulation and jammed them into the joist. This kept the insulation dry, clean, and pest free while being able to be removed to check for other problems. Don't know if it was the 'best' insulation solution but seemed to work while keeping problem solving options available if problems developed.
I always was told that the vapor barrier should be on the hottest side of the wall. If you build a hybrid system with some kind of foam insulation and tape the joints (as suggested) and put your fiberglass insulation on top of that are you not creating a vapor barrier in between the wall? Are you adding a vapor barrier, furring strips and drywall? BTW, I find all your videos very informative and educational. Keep up the great work.
Insulation great topic. Jeff I am a big fan of yours and Matt Risinger. Question I am looking to do a complete remodel of a 1988 home and I would like to Insulate the exterior by removing the siding and replacing windows and doors. Do you know of any video examples of people doing a remodel that is this extensive. Thank you for all the great videos.
I've been using rigid foam as a thermal break in my basements for years. I use 2", frame up against it, and fill the studs bays with R-14. I also use a double P. T. plate with weeps for drainage. Makes baseboard installation go way batter to.
Hi Jeff I dont quite get the air gap behind the foam board with the aire gap below. Wouldnt the air in the basement creep underneath and touch the cold concrete causing condensation?
He's got an older video where he installs the gap and says to also install some type of subfloor with air and water cavities under them. I'm assuming that would keep the room air in the room, and the only air going through the wall gap would be the cold air underneath the subfloor.
This is where I'm confused. I had this exact scenario. Xps installed on my new house basement walls with tape over the seams and an unfinished floor. The gap between floor and xps wasn't sealed. I could feel air movement at the top of the board. I pulled the xps off last winter and found moisture on a lot of wall space due to the cold concrete wall and warm inside air. I had the xps redone and bottom sealed with caulking. I think the airflow from bottom seams pulled warm air up the wall and condensed near the top where it was colder and eventually would've cause mold issues. I now cannot feel air movement at the top of the boards since I sealed the bottom gap.
@@youtoldharpotobeatme5023does the subflooring have a really good air seal? If not wouldn't moisture still get thru and behind the wall and lead to hidden mold problems behind the wall foam and under the sub flooring?
@@mleachx1If not sealed at top and bottom air can still flow in and out from the top, depositing moisture on the wall and later carrying spores back into the ceiling space and eventually living space, correct?
@@geode232that's the exact issue i had. Warm air ran under the foam board and as it traveled to the wall it condensed at the top of the board. In 2 spots i had wet marks were it was enough condensation to drip down the wall. This was how i eventually found the issue. I now have my bottom and top sealed after builder replaced the xps boards.
I can join and get help directly from you? Oh cool! We're purchasing a house this year and i just discovered you. Definitely joining.
I question having spaces that allow air to flow vertically around the insulation. I once saw a house report, during IR training class, the initial owner complaint was that the home would not heat. Per an IR scan, it appeared that the home had no wall insulation. Inspecting the walls found that the builder had cut the insulation short at the top and bottom, seemingly on purpose. The result was leaving channels for the air to flow vertically around the insulation. Warm air rises and cooler air falls. Bottom line is that insulation works by trapping air and not allowing it to travel. Please consider.
BTW, like your channel a lot and watch often. I use it as a DIY source. Thanks for the good work.
Hi I’m in a America Maryland, I usually see almost all ur videos but this video convinced me .. I want to be sure that this roles for Canada only right?! Not for America
In SW Ontario I have used sprayfoam contractors that cost about the same per board foot as those kits. For what it's worth, it's a good option to hire out as opposed to DIY sprayfoam. Last pricing I had was about $4.50 per board foot at 3-3.5 inches thick.
Recently redid my whole basement with 2 inch foam boards and 2x4 walls with R15 rockwool. Same system in the rim joist and joist bay sections, and dricore subflloors. I can really feel the difference in temperature, but the humidity levels also are more stable through the year. I'm kind of curious of what the concrete look behing all this, after a couple years.
even if it gets wet it is of no consequence. it will eventually dry to the outside. Cheers! wet concrete is stronger than dry concrete!
Part of me is afraid it will get moldy.
Does the 2" XPS count as a vapour barrier? as in no 3 mil plastic barrier required on top?
We did some exterior waterproofing. We watched our bsmt walls for about a yr. Then framed everything. Then spray foamed. Its possible there will be a water event but that would be strange. Spray foam was 1800$ for 21 by 35 ft. It took 2.5 hours. The difference of humidity or pressure was immediate. I dont regret that. Now in another house I glued the 2 inch foam to the concrete. That could be a Mistake
Thank you for the video - this was by far the most informational and detailed breakdown of basement insulation! I need some of my contractors to watch this...
Hi. I like everything you do about everything. The problem that concerns me about basements in Canada is radon gas. I think this should be talked about before finishing any basement. Thanks a lot for your amazing videos.
Radon IS a serious issue. However, that is taken care of with sub-floor ventilation. Finishing the walls has nothing to do with that.
@@KevinMaxwell-o3twhat do you mean with subfloor ventilation? I am having an issue with radon in my basement and the previous owner just covered the subfloor with floating flooring so I can’t see if there are cracks or anything that is going on. Thanks in advance ❤
@@KevinMaxwell-o3tRadon does come in from the foundation walls as well.
New code starting 2025 has radon sealing included.
@@wonderwonder30I'm pretty sure it has to be below the concrete - probably perforated piping network tied to an extractor fan constantly pulling creating negative pressure below the concrete. I don't imagine it can be done with subflooring which is just the support layer immediately below the finished floor but Above the concrete floor
If you leave an airflow gap at the bottom of the insulation board and spray foam seal at the rim joist, where does the air flow to? And if warm moist air (perhaps from a basement shower) is pulled in that airflow gap at the bottom and up behind the foam board it will condense to water on the cold CMUs then down the road mold, correct?
The air doesn’t have to flow, it just needs the ability to move. The process of doing this right would eliminate any potential of inside room air ever coming into contact with the air gap behind the xps. First, the foam, then the subfloor, seal the 1/4” gap between the foam and subfloor with low expansion foam or acoustic sealant and sheathing tape to maintain air movement between the wall and floor systems. Then build your stud walls on top of the subfloor. The key takeaway from all of this is, the foam on the walls must be 100% sealed at the seams to the joist cavities with an expanding closed cell foam sealant.
Yes, the air gap is not a good way to do it. The best way is to prevent any air from hitting the wall to begin with. No air, no condensation, no mold.
Extremely timely video! One question. I know a construction site supervisor who says the tyvek should be flipped around due to its properties. Any truth to it?
Great video, but I was wondering if we can some videos on insulated the floors and ceilings. I live in Atlanta, Georgia and I'm in the process of renovating my basement. I have cinder block walls. I appreciate your professionalism.
Thanks
I don't recommend thermal insulation in floors but I do love sound barrier insulation. the mineral wool product from rockwool in a ceiling is much more dense and as such allows heat to pass through as it has less air pockets. and it eats sound travelling from above. on the floor using a product like DMX 1 step underlayment gives you a thermal break and an air space to it keeps things warm and dry. Cheers!
@HomeRenoVisionDIY Thanks for the info. Can I install laminate over the DMX 1?
Very interesting. Insulator from south Texas. We don’t have basements. Hot weather and hot attics. Love learning how the northern weather affects ppl.
Thank you for all of your amazing videos!! Question for you, from a moisture standpoint, why is it critical to tape the joints in the rigid foam board if you’re leaving an air gap at the bottom anyways? Also, if a gap is left at the bottom for airflow is it required to seal the top of the foam board in the case of a spray foamed rim joist, or can it stay unsealed if you were to instal a piece of rigid foam in the rim joist? Thank you!!
As usual, informative video!
Based on info in video, I now have a plan to install the following in my OLD house: foam board with glue stand offs against outside walls, 2x4 stud walls (R19 insulated) on top of Dricore R+ subfloor (properly spaced from walls) topped with water resistant (?) laminate flooring. Thoughts?
Thanks again!
I like your hybrid solution. For 1950s houses with non-insulated floors, what do you suggest if we want to do an epoxy floor? Is that doable with the hybrid walls? I was thinking heated slab over a small thickness insulation covered by self leveling concrete and epoxy finish.
Insulating à home here in Canada is difficult . Thx Jeff for the great info,and all your videos. Your a good man .💪💪👍👍
Happy to be of some help. Cheers!
In addition to 'basic' Styrofoam sheets, there's also reflective foil-coated Styrofoam (SilverBoard is one brand), that offers a bit higher R-value for the same thickness. They have micro-perforations to help manage moisture transmission. You mentioned the renovation must have at least as high an R-Value as the rest of the house. However, I don't think it is a problem to go with a higher R-Value for the reno.
When building a new home, there are lots of options to attain high R-values in the construction materials you choose. One is Insulated Concrete Forms (ICF's). They are forms of Styrofoam and reinforced plastic 'webs' that stack much like Lego Blocks, so the construction is relatively fast. Rebar is placed on the webs inside the blocks as they are stacked, then concrete is pumped inside the centre of the ICF built wall, to provide a Reinforced concrete structure with insulating foam panels on both outer sides of the wall. Many advantages, such as superior strength (hurricane proof), great insulation, quick build, and no additional insulation required, which offset the slightly higher materials costs for the ICF's and Concrete. Bottom line is your home is typically better insulated, structurally superior, and thus of inherently higher value than other building techniques.
Thank you! Question please, is this done with an ICF basement as well? Thank you again.
Great advice! Do you have any videos on how to insulate the floor in the basement as well?
Can you provide information on the do it yourself spray foam? I would to review the CCMC report on the R value, vapour barrier properties, etc. Or is this product truly only an air seal? Thank you
Merry Christmas Jeff, Family, Team, Subscribers, and Viewers! All the best (renovations... lol) in the New Year!
Merry Christmas to you as well. 25 is going to be the best year this channel has ever seen. Looking forward to sharing my forever home renovation videos. Cheers!
Do you think a hybrid insulation would be the best option for the exterior of a mobile home. My mobile home has no vapor barrier. I'm planning on putting up plywood and foam board insulation. Plus, use spray foam to insulate the 2x4 walls then install rockwool insulation around that
Jeff, if I've watched one of your vids, I've watch 100! you should have been a high school shop teacher. Question: Just purchased an old hunting camp turned year round. Beautiful, varying width vert. pine interior 2x4 studs 16 O/C, 1x8's for sheathing, and 1/4 logs for siding. To my surprise and disappointment the walls have a black paper faced 1" thick fiberglass batts stapled mid 2x4 stud cavity. I was going to dense pack the walls when I resided. How the heck do I upgrade the cavity insulation with this 1 inch thick batts in the walls?
How would you tie the subfloor into the wall insulation to create a continuous thermal break? Especially it leaving a gap where you shimmed it?
Slide dricore against it and caulk? Dimple mat underneath and can foam the gap where they meet? Maybe I'm over thinking it
I have the same question. I understand the need for water management, but doesn't having an open air channel from concrete wall to the interior defeat the purpose? It seems like an obvious way for cold air to come right into the living space.
I'm thinking the same
@@cmango8668 We are looking to leave the floor a bit unfinished. Definitely need to put some thought into this for sure. Good luck to you
@cmango8668 or worse- a channel for moist air to deposit water on the cold CMUs , later growing mold and the same air exchange bringing spores into the living area
@@baltoravens1 Yeah- if you're leaving the floor unfinished, it seems silly to leave a gap at the bottom for cold air to come right in. I would just use foam board up against the concrete all the way to the floor. If moisture penetration is a problem and you want more R-value, use another layer of foam board on top of that. The pink 2" Foamular board has an R-value of 10.
@Home RenoVision DIY: If I use a dimpled underlayment for the basement floor, should my wall studs be on top of that underlayment or should the underlayment butt up against the bottom plate of the studded wall? Thx
It's so nice having access to that new home feel. No cold drafts, real sound proofing, proper lighting and warm floors that don't creak at every step. it's sad that in Ottawa the next wrung up on the property ladder went from an extra 100k to now 350k. At 50+ I can't be bothered with a mortgage for that long. You have provided the solution. Basement suite, half bath to a full bath and then the kitchen remodel. Probably cost about 70k when it's all done. I'm even putting in the upgrades for single floor living when I am really old. You really do redeem the internet Jeff. I hope you and your family have a good Christmas.🎄🎅🎁
My main concern with the froth kits is nit mixing properly. The small cans that are premixed are commercially mixed and exact. Even getting a pro company to come in and spray foam can be dodgy. The off gassing that occurs "should" only be a couple days however if not an exact mix, corrected for temp and everything else, you could have off gassing for years as your r value goes down as well. Ive pulled apart many walls that were spray foamed to find it completely desintigrated. The eps, xps or any of the commercial sheets again are very precise and tested so minimal off gassing and degredation. Eps, although less r value would be the most environentally and pocket book feiendly.
You mentioned at the beginning that minimum code is that your basement only needs to be the same R value as the upstairs. So house is older and upstairs is 2x4 walls then basement is to be R14. Would you suggest to insulate any more than R14 in the basement if the main floor insulation was never upgraded?
👍🇨🇦 i bought a house from 91 .. but made the quebec way in some ways of tue structure. Wires over the door frames.. 2x6 walls up stairs strapping for exterior.. interior ways and basement walls are 2x3.. i salavged the framing cause alot of them twisted. I managed to fix them and changed a few beyond fixing.. ill go with spray cause i only got 3 inches plus 1 and a half feet inches behind that till the cement foundation.
I have a 40 year old permanent wood foundation. It's warm and dry. Very low humidity. Used batt insulation in between wall studs in finished area , to include full bath. plus vapor barrier, sheet rock. Only a couple of duct registers keep the whole (2000 sf) space warm.
Great Video I live in a 1991 Oakville Ontario house and plan to insulate the basement in the new Year, Plan is not to finish the basement floor, what changes from this video would you recommend I do?
What is the spacing and size of blocks for the bottom PT?
Are you also nailing it to the concrete?
Great things to consider, overall I think the best for me is the middle one, just adding the resealing of my concrete foundation, because I'm not really looking to turn my basement into a finished floor of this old house of mine, I just want to reseal the concrete and get it to stay warm enough so that not only are my chickens content down there in the winter time(they're quite happy when it's as low as 40°F) but I am too, in another room where I'll have a heater on & to get those cluckers happier in the summer by keeping out that high heat that they struggle in.
Im curious if I do the hybrid method with foam board and air gap behind, can I still spray foam my rim joist without trapping the moisture ? I would essentially be sealing off where the foam board meets at the top of the wall. Thanks!
I live in Pittsburgh Pa. I get a little wetness/ puddling every couple years after a torrential rain. Otherwise dry. Rigid foam? R=value id need? Thickness? At all? Stuff is too expensive. Keep the vids rolling. Lots of people rely on your great stuff.
Your last video about rim joist, I got the foam guy Mike coming! 6b cold and dry! Got R69.75 in the attic.. Massive difference
If i use 1-Step air gap dimpled mat on the walls and floor with rigid foam board, would that be good for moisture management and encasing the area?
In the method of blocking to leave a gap at the bottom for moisture management does this not allow cold air to bleed out of the bottom?
As an old home DiYer i agree with the foam board. Because right now i have cinder block. So i can foam board this year for x then next winter or the following stud it out. Addingy gains year after year
For the Hybrid option (Rigid Foam and Batts), Should you still leave a gap under the bottom plate for air flow like you mentioned in the second method (2x6 with batts). I believe code in Windsor Ontario where I reside it is 2" foam, then 2x4 studs 16" on centre and then r12 batts. Im not sure I will be allowed to add the space for airflow under the bottom plate? Thanks!
My house was built in 1950 with cement poured foundation walls. It unfortunately has a dirt floor basement too. Whoever owned it before me put some sort of barrier paper and plastic down, added 2x3 wood floor framing, and then osb sheet board to create a raised floor. Can I do all this wall insulation and framing with the current raised floor, or is that not advisable? Thank you.
Can you use the 3rd system, rigid/batt, with carpet flooring?
Thanks Jeff. I’m about to start my basement project and the info you provided was timely and informative as always😀
Weird question here. I recently read "Fire Weather" by John Vaillant. There's a lot of new information coming out about how newer housing, which is reliant on polymer based building materials: mastics, vinyl siding, Corian counters, etc. has reduced complete burn times from 8 hours down to two. How does rockwool compare to synthetics like the foam board and fiberglass in fire resistance? BTW if you haven't read this book AND live/build in North America, it should be required.
I saw a sheet of DuroSpan GPS10 (2" & R10) @ $60 in your video. Owens Corning Codebord (1½" thick & R7.5)@ $50, but HD sells DuroSpan (1½" thick & R5.63) @$33. Is there anything wrong with using DuroSpan? Is it the lower R value that disqualifies it (unless you did an R20 Batt)?
Great vids! Im in Nova Scotia and love watching videos that use products I can source in Canada, and your estimates are Canadian prices. Thank you!
Hi Jeff, really love the videos! In the rigid foam + batt install; can we just drywall over that in Ontario, or do we need to consider a smart barrier before drywall? Thx
I think you answered my question in a post below; vapour barrier but not sealed/taped. Still interested in your answer though.
the govt talks about a "smart barrier" in their literature however there is no such product on the market yet. LOL. if you are getting inspected then you still need a poly 6mm stapled only to the studs. It should be removed from the code when using rigid foam and air sealing the rim joist but the wheels move slow. Cheers!
Do you add a vapor barrier in front of the batt insulation as well? Like those clear plastic sheets?
Question, do I not need the Tyvec if Im using foam board behind the framing?
Jeff, nice job with the videos as always. Do you think painting the walls with a waterproof paint like dry loc is worth it before insulation, or are those types of products just snake oil?
I personally have no use for a painted wall.....ever!
I used the spay foam kit in an old home years ago & others 💯Believer It made the walls so solid & cut the heat bill in half. It has a dugout basement with block walls & cement floor, did the block walls as well the next winter. Never had a problem looks new to this day & always dry ..Cold windy wet winters in South Dakota . Other contractors believers in these parts & use after ..Old home can't go wrong 👍
Key is to use closed cell but it's important to apply at right temperature. Even better to get a contractor that knows what they are doing for right price. I will never go back to batt for basement. Having said that, the hybrid setup is ok and still would work.
@@TechPlanetMusic Exactly. 💯 My situation on used on couple old homes in cold & windy state. I'm happy with closed cell..most are 2x4 walls as you know. The kits held up perfectly , even made walls stronger . Used on basement dug out block walls after 7 years believe its been now living in.👍 . The basement was so cold before & cold went threw the floor was part of it think. I will never go back to batt either
@@TechPlanetMusic Last thing a place called Grow South Dakota that builds homes or helps others get into homes , they checked it out & started using it ..
Another great and very informative video. Thank you for taking the time and expense to demonstrate this.
Would you still do the pressure treated stack at the bottom of the framing with the foam board method for moisture management in an older home? Understand the better flooring solutions side, just thinking that would create a barrier at the floor.
if you have a old wet floor then subfloor first then rigid then framing on top. Cheers!
Do you have a video explaining the floor options you are talking about?
With the rigid foam/ bat system, do you guys still use a plastic Vapor barrier under the Sheetrock? I am also assuming Sheetrock is installed on forences on exterior wall? Thank you
What is your opinion regarding option 3, but using steel studs? Galvanized steel studs are dimensionally perfect and rot proof. Thermal bridging is avoided if rigid foam used first.
what about OLD concrete block 1939 -Minnesota winters, block painted with regular paint, some crumbling, efflorescence but relatively good condition for age...(must run a dehumidifier or 2 all summer) can just go ahead and do foam boards and proceed, or need to do anything else to the blocks?? It will be a completely separate issue - concrete floor is a bowl to drain.... watching your other videos trying to figure out that and if we should do self leveling and elevate most of basement, leaving a step down around drain for when it inevitably backs up, but keep it from going 5 feet out from drain into living space. Previous owners in 70's? built out a wall a foot from drain that bottom gets wet every time there is a back-up and glued shag carpet to the floor - that we removed painstakingly. Trying not to spend the big bucks on something that's not worth it, but trying to have steps to work on over time to make it more comfortable. Hahaha and half the rim joists have batt insulation stuffed in them, half have chunks of foam boards in them. Looking to remove that and spray foam too. Any additional tips for the dungeon appreciated!
Great video..I do have a question though..why are you using unfaced insulation?..
thanks.
Harry
Hi harry. unfaced insulation is used in places where we need to have a plastic barrier attached as a vapor barrier after fiberglass install. if we had the paper which is a vapor barrier as well then we would have 2 stuck together and that leads to condensation behind the plastic. not a good thing at all. each different region has its own building code for many reasons like this. Cheers!
Need ideas!!
I’m really curious to what second option looks finished with the air gap on bottom. Would this be an option for a basement with efflorescence? It’s 80 year old house. Basement foundation was definitely NOT water proofed from the outside.
My Missouri house is 103 years old with a limestone block foundation. If it rains the extremely hard, the limestone blocks seep a bit but there is a French drain in the basement…. None of the joists are insulated or anything. What would you recommend as a good system that won’t put the house at risk for any kind of rotting and whatnot if I insulate?
I have a new home with a waterproof barrier sprayed on during construction if I use rigid foam do I still need to shim at floor level?
question for you.... your third option 27.00 dollar option. 2*4 is not on the concrete floor, no pink seal, if I wanted to place laminate on the concrete would I just place it next to the drywall or under the drywall? so no subflooring
I’m in SW Ontario, in an older house (ungrounded electrical system) & my basement is freezing. We are in sandy soil & to the best of my knowledge, there has never been a problem with water (no sump pump). Do I still need to worry about air flow behind the insulation?
I used R13 rigid foam and batt on top of that. Way overkill for my mid Atlantic climate but it's gonna be the stablest room in the house.
best video on the topic, to the point and informative. your content gets better and better. A+
So, warm moist air is allowed to migrate behind the insulation and against the colder concrete wall where it can condense?
Could you do a quick video on what changes if the basement walls are ICF?
One day old video so hopefully my question gets answered. I live in pa and have 5ft crawlspace made with stone foundation. Water comes in when it rains in some spots. Question is, do i cement crawlspace from inside or dig outside around house and cement that instead. Wife says i have to watch doing it bc it can cause hydrostatic. I say, when the House was built they didn't Care too much about making sure water did not get in crawl space and adding enough cement between stones. And I don't want to do a French drain because I have a problem with allowing water to come in my crawl space knowing it's behind the vapor barrier and still getting in. Another solution could be just to buy one of those large drums of expansion from and spraying on the inside but not sure if it will stick that well to the stones unless I clean out well enough between them for it to stick. Any insight will be most appreciated but just looking for some type of direction of professional insight. Thx
Hey Gadday Eh!, just watch this series on insulation and it was very enlightening. Thanks much. What i did notice however at the end of your vid, you added a bit about for a minimal fee, you could provide some useful tips on construction and code issues while building one’s own project. What a great idea that is , I’m sure some could capitalize on your experience and know how. Keep the videos going, i know a lot of people that are watching you and use your vids as the stepping stone for their projects. Good work.
Merry Xmas and a very happy new year.
Merry Christmas Clyde. happy to share. Looking forward to 25 as we share my Forever Home renovation series. going to be a great year! Cheers!