Stupid-Easy $1.00 CHAINSAW HACK That'll SAVE YOUR BACK
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- Опубликовано: 26 ноя 2019
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I measure all my pieces with the eyecrometer
I didn't think anyone even did this measuring, rediculous.
Totally agree. Eyeball mk 1
Same here.
Ever get sawdust in the eyecrometer
I have a built in ruler. Ouch!
I measure my firewood cuts with a micrometer and shave the oversize lengths with a wood plane. Each end is then polished to a high finish then varnished.
do you fill the imperfectios?
👍🏻😂
If you keep your wood pile outside be sure to use a nice marine grade spar varnish. It holds up better against the elements; constant moisture, and the suns ultraviolet rays. That way on overcast days you dont have to put the waxed cotton cover back on right away after you take a few logs off to split.
.....go to your room Coober.
Pro tip: wash out an old ketchup bottle to keep bar and chain oil handy. No mess refilling and easy to carry around
I just learned more from this comment, great idea!!
@@anthony1981 haha great grandaddy wasnt no fool. Thank you!
I started cutting wood in 1965 and have never met anyone that was needing exact length wood, however I think the idea could be a help at times for people who are that weird
I'm no spring chicken either and I use a measure every time. The main reasons are i maximize the wood I get in the truck and in the wood pile and in the stove. A neat wood shed is a bonus. I just run down the log and make a series of quick hacks with my fallers ax which is exactly 18 inches.
I am one of those guys that doesn't use a cheater stick at all. That is too much work as you said. My wood stove takes up to a 22" log (and you can put stuff in there that is a little longer) but I tend to cut my wood to 18" just so it is easier to haul out of the woods by hand. To achieve the 18" log, I use my 18" chainsaw. Guess what I use to measure one cut to the next? You guessed! The 18" bar on my chainsaw. I cut a log off, turn the saw 90°, eyeball where the end of the bar is and make my next cut there. Quick, simple, no extra tools, and for a wood pile, you get close enough for a fine looking stack off wood. What about cutting trees that are bigger than my 18" saw should be used on, well, I don't harvest those as the logs are too heavy to haul out of the woods.
Yeah exactly. I literally thought everybody did this. If you want 16” or 20” it’s not hard to eyeball short or longer and get within acceptable tolerance....for firewood 🤷♂️
Like Jeff, I use the bar on my saw. Since I cut my firewood to 16 in and my bar is 16 in it is easy to put the saw on the log, pivot, and cut. Quick and easy without having an extra piece to loose.
This should be titled "How obsessive compulsive people cut firewood."
Chicken Fried Bobcat you probably do not cut firewood.
@@matthaynes4741 I live west of Yakima WA in the mountains. Wood is my ONLY source of heat. I cut 6 cords for myself and 3 cords for my mother in law every year. After cutting literally thousands of rounds of wood, if I can't accurately judge my desired length for my stove then I should sell my saw and move to the city, right next door to you Matt.
@@chickenfriedbobcat6090 I'm with your brother and I think most of the people out there feel the same way
@@chickenfriedbobcat6090 did you ever cut a log too big and then have to redo all 9 cords of wood. Its best to just throw it all away and redo all 9 cords just to be sure. Better safe than sorry is the ONLY attitude towards fire wood. If its not just the right length it will never take a flame.... you could put a blowtorch to it even and still get nothing
That is an ingenious invention. But we aren't doing finish carpentry. And I prefer my firewood to be less uniform. You need large, heavy pieces at night before you go to bed to keep the fire going all night. Then in the morning, you need small, light pieces to get it hot again quickly. My pile has everything from small kindling to heavy logs. While I appreciate the care put into a perfect firewood pile, measuring each piece seems a little too much like wasting time.
I have a small stove that only accepts 16” logs. I don’t know about you, but my eyes struggle to tell the difference between 16 & 18 inches. Though I didn’t do this hack, it’s pretty cool.
Never heard of anyone worrying about the lengths, everyone I know just eyeballs it
I don't either but if he wants the exact lengthy then u know?
Maybe they are an engineer for NASA???
Some people go to great lengths....to waste time
@@papabear149 i tried to go to great lengths to waste time but then i realized that I needed a magnetic pvc bar to measure the great lengths.
I measure and cut so I can get full length for my splitter.
The Old 'Logger's' way: Depending on your desired cut length: Just get a 16 Inch or 18 inch Bar and use the saws bar as your 'Cheat Stick'. Nose at cut end, pivot the bar at the dogs (The Teeth at the Body of the saw) Make next perpendicular cut. repeat until you run out of log. Waste less time marking, and Get more cut in that time. Logs greater than 16-18 inch diameter? You're going to need a longer bar, (and to do some splitting later.) Merely Mark the bar at 16 to 18 inches from the dogs, line up that mark with the previous cut end, pivot at the dogs, make your next perpendicular cut. repeat until you run out of log.
I wouldn't be caught dead havin my lady seeing that training wheel on my saws 😅
I've been doing this for years.....by sight. Every piece has ALWAYS fit into whatever I've put it into.
Or just use your bar to measure your log length.
That is exactly what I do it saves time .
That is what my dad does
Ditto
I use my wife's boyfriend's pe......... Well...you get the picture.
My bar is 52 cm long... Simple.
I'm loving you all are posting daily again. It's a bright spot in my day
I run a 18 inch bar myself it’s very easy to mark firewood put the dogs to the end of the log see where the tip of the saw is cut their
I have a 32" bar I have a permanent maker line on my bar at 18" for the same reason.
Too easy! Too easy! no special gadgets no wasting time with inventions that are just going to get caught in the bar.
Just happened to catch this video. Excellent idea and you're so humbled by whoever came up with this idea! Great job!!! Thanks
Hmmm, I never thought that exact length firewood was that important thus needing exact measurements.
As long as it fits in the stove.
I'm confused. You don't have anything in your house that burns wood. Why do you need to cut firewood, again?
hot tub?
Content… more content more money.
@@tomdale1313 that makes sense
They have the wood fired hot tub.
I understand your thinking but after you cut enough wood I think you develop an "eye" for it.
I give you credit for re-sharing a great idea. I've just eye balled my cuts and never liked the un even stack. This jig is great for me. Now let me pass along a Modification that may help. Drill holes at 15, 16, 17, 18... etc. My stove would hold 18 but I like 15". My friend has a smaller stove so I'll cut his wood at 14". Drilling holes and inserting a nail helps.
My husband set up a sturdy table & rigged the chainsaw as a dropsaw. We had two wheelbarrows, one positioned at the end of the table for the wood to drop into. When that one was full, I swapped it out with the empty one & stacked the wood. By the time I stacked the wood, the next wheelbarrow was full. Fabulous system, really streamlined ... filled a massive woodshed in one afternoon. Eliminated 90% of the bending.
Nobody I know uses a "cheater stick" or tape measure for firewood. Most of us are not that OCD
Really? I know someone who uses their own style of cheater stick, works well, no bending required!
Great minds think alike! I did this several years ago but used the "springy" door stops to fasten to the magnet and pulled off the rubber tip. Then I inserted a 1/4" dowel down the hole in the spring and marked the distance from the chain for my saw lengths. It is attached with the magnet close to the engine which allows me to cut through the log. The spring has some "give" so that it does not perform like a lever on the bar. Works great!
Instead of pvc, I use a piece of thin threaded rod on a magnet. It's gotta be a lot lighter than what you have there.
I also put a large fender washer on the end opposite the magnet. It sets into the last groove, helping you lock into position before marking quickly & easily.
Standard length is 16". Your bar is also likely 16". If it's longer, make a sharpie mark on the bar at 16" and use the bar to measure out the next cut. Why make it difficult?
Hmmmmmm? I just put a mark with a permanent marker 16” from the tip of the bar. It just takes a quick spin of the saw for a fairly accurate measurement each time. I usually get them within an inch either way and that is close enough for me.
With my luck the chain would grab that contraption and launch it back into my man bits!
Jeff Smith I’ve done this for a long while. Have a few different marks for different customers. Always worked for me. Just gotta touch up
I love your joyful face ! I kept smiling the whole video just looking at your smile ! please don't lose this ever : we need smiling people around the world. You made me watch this video although I'm never going to do this and my husband probably won't either because we buy our fire wood.
Thanks for taking the time for sharing this trick.
Have a lovely day !
I have always just eyeballed it. But then I grew up cutting firewood. I never worried about how it looked. I just made sure it did not fall over.
My chainsaw has a 16 bar . I just turn saw in the direction of travel, then pick a point on the log near the end of the bar. mark it from dogs to tip, rinse and repeat. do it a few time and you can judge pretty close to fit the stove. turn the saw ,mark turn the saw mark rinse repeat.
And you never leave it at home if you are cutting firewood in the woods LOL
Not a bad idea... I use the length of my bar as my guide as an inch or two doesn’t make any difference in my woodpile or stove.
I was going to recommend this as well. Seems like a no brainer to me.
Yup 👍🧠🧠🧠
I’ve cut wood for 50 yrs & have always used 2 chainsaws for cutting. One a 14” & a 20”. I just use the bar to measure with. Have never had issues using this old time method. 👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🍺🍺🦅🦅
My husband can't stop laughing!! Just eyeball it!!! Who's got that kind of time?
My wood burner takes 20 inches. I measure 20 in on my saw from the tip of the bar, to the side of my saw and make a sharpie line, get the cutoff wheel and make a small cut (scratch) in the plastic of the saw on the line (husky orange, plastic side) , then fill it with sharpie black and done. I put the saw tip at the cut end, eyeball by black mark and the tree and cut there. No other tools needed. Move down on the tree, cut there etc. I've done it this way for 30 years. The less stuff the better.
I measure from the end of my bar back, scribe and paint a line. Hold the end of the bar on the end of the log, look at the line/log, then move the saw to the spot where the line was and cut. Kind of simple.
A very simple idea - Since you are using a visor as you should. Put your visor on and after marking the proper distance one time put two scrathes or marks on your visor and then you should always have that distance in front of you when you cut. Like a heads up display.
This is a great idea. I always eyeball it too but it can vary by an inch or two. With this thing it doesn't take long and after a while it will train your eye to always cut exactly (in my case 16") the same length. I like precision. The magnet makes it easy, fast and convenient too. Great!
A $1.00 piece of yellow keel has worked for a century at least. Run down your log, and make a yellow mark ever 18" if that is your desired cut. It weighs about 2 oz fits in your shirt pocket and is not cumbersome. When bucking in the old days (early 70's) that is what we used if we wanted an exact cut. I still use it with my Spencer retractable tape when cutting fire wood. zip down, make my marks and feet to cutting. Of course, I am using a 32" bar because I don't like to bend over to cut.
I just use my 16" bar to measure my 16" firewood pieces
There is hope and help for those suffering with OCD. Love your videos!
I don't know anything about chainsaws but my husband is a logger from way back. I just love seeing you again, we've enjoyed all your videos for quite some time!
Just make a mark on the saw bar and turn the saw. Eventually you'll learn to measure by eye. If you worry about making your wood pile perfectly neat, you should talk to someone about your obsessive behavior.
Ditto here. I learned the trick of using my bar or bar & saw with top-handle saws as my reference or "stick" when cutting firewood years ago & it always works great.
My Lopi takes nice & long 22" logs too 👍🏼
When you have no idea what you’re doing sometimes you spend time focusing on things that are not important
@@blakestone1432 What I was thinking ! what is the deal with perfectly sized firewood ? Its fuel, not building materials ! OCD.....
I cut 16" because it stacks on pallets in 3 rows deep but 4 ft. wide, which fits perfect. I measure With a Measuring tape, marking every 16" that is already marked for you with a red square on the tape measure.
Great idea. You got me thinking about how to modify the length of the gage to accommodate different cut lengths. Make the primary length of PVC with magnet, say 12" (whatever fits the tool box) which would include the coupling. Then, just have short pieces which when placed in the coupling equal 16", 18", etc. Those short extensions would free up space in the kit and eliminate the multiple full length pieces. Just a thought
Ed Zdon
I suppose lack of experience will be a problem, the rest of us measure in our heads 👍
What?..... A chainsaw hack that didn't come from Wranglerstar. My world has just been turned upside down. I don't think I can handle this.
Nope, but he click baited you like Wranglestar...Sorry guys, the click bait is getting old...and that "trick" is older than dirt...
Congrats. You just solved a problem that never existed. - Ever!
When I started out cutting logs about 2 years ago, I thought the hole at the end of the bar was made for this application. So I got some treaded bar and 2 nuts, pushed it through the hole cut to length and then marked everything. You could cut the log and it wouldn't fall off like yours did.
Made a mistake one day after about 2 months of use and a log bent it, I wasn't going back to fix it so I did it by eye and I was pretty accurate. Give or take a half inch, it doesn't matter.
Very neat idea it seems to work well. I’ve never measured wood for the stove, just an eyeball and cut. Depending on the size of your bar, you can simply set your saw on top of the log facing towards the end of the log and touch the tip into the log to nibble a mark at your next cutting point.
i turn my saw paralell to the log, if i have a 20" bar and want 18" i just eyeball a cuppel of inches back and cut, i'm not marking and going back to much work
This is funny to me. I cut and stack four chords of wood for my stove every year. I didn't know I was supposed to measure the wood.
After seeing this idea I made one using 1/2” pvc conduit and 1” earth magnet. It has been fantastic my fire wood looks much better. I also painted it fluorescent orange. It is a great idea
i use a laser rangefinder especially calibrated for short distances, i have several alarm sets for different distances. its solar powered and has internal batteries and night vision.
@Jimmy Tate,
High tech firewood cutter. :)
Not a bad idea but allot of ppl don’t get ocd about their wood stacks
Just made something similar . I used the same magnet maybe a size smaller , said it was rated for 35 lb load , a piece of 24 in 1/4 x 20 all thread some nut's and a large fender washer for the marker. Put a nut on each side of the washer so i can adjust it to any size i want to cut. Works great and cost me a grand total of 8 bucks at my local hardware. Pretty much the same thing iv'e seen online selling for 25 bucks and up. It's light weight and work's great and yes i mark my log's and then pop it off to make the cut's.
I’ve tied a ti- rap on the handle, it mesure exactly 16 inch from the end to the handle. It works great, pretty light and flexible !
I don’t want to sound elitist, but eyeballing is the way to go, you need a reference (mark on chain bar or something) to get you going, and then you just keep at it. The trick is to mark out the whole log first with the saw, then make your cuts, if you just keep chopping off the end of the log your length will be all over the shop, the human eye is great at getting two or more things equal length, but eyeing out a specific distance without anything to compare it to is near impossible.
A serious firewood cutter doesn't worry how his wood pile looks - I been cutting wood for over 50 years and just estimate where I need to cut in order to get the length of wood I want - it may be a little shorter than the length that the stove can take but so what
60 seconds of information presented in 12 minutes
Great idea. I just eyeball it aiming for 20"
Accuracy comes with practice but most logs end up 19" to 21" which is close enough for me.
If you cant estimate 18" you haven't cut enough wood, get back out there and keep practicing!😂
I know a guy that says he doesn't need to measure his cuts, we measured his rounds one day and no two were the same length. This explains why his stacks always look like a blind man made them.... no offence to blind men, I'm half blind myself. It seems like you have two types of wood hookers, the people that don't think they need to measure and split consistantly and the people who do it right.
Guess I must be a spatially aware cowboy. I don't use anything. Also, if you know how long your bar is, you can turn the chainsaw slightly to help you eyeball your cuts. Rough guide if you want to learn cowboy method.
Back in the day about 18 years ago when I did tree work with my dad he had created a device like this that mounted to the handle of the chainsaw. This allowed us to get accurate measurements for firewood lengths and still be able to cut through logs without interference..
He did it by drilling a hole through the handle and using a piece of all thread measured at the correct length and then put double lock nuts and a washer on one side of the handle and a lock nut with washer on the other side where it sticks through to keep it secure and prevent it from coming off.
A $4.99 alternative is a Telescoping Magnetic Pickup Tool from Harbor Freight. Fits in your pocket and can handle any size.
I really can’t believe I watched this!
This was painful. Use a 18” bar and just quick turn your saw before you cut and eyeball it.
It’s firewood 🙄
A great solution looking for a problem. I stopped measuring years ago.
When I did measure I just used my fallers axe with the length marked on the handle. Lay it in the log to pick your cut spot then mark it with a quick chop. You can mark several logs before you even start the saw
That's what i do, just carry a small hand saw to mark the log instead of chopping
I got a better idea, just drill a 1/4" hole through the bar all the way at the base where the bucking grabber hooks are and bolt an 18" length of 1/4" all thread rod through the hole. Make the hole in the bar all the way back so its right next to the chainsaw body and so the all thread rod goes through one of the bucking grabber slots so you're not losing 1/4" of cutting length. Use a wing nut so you can quickly remove the marker rod after cutting session is finished. This setup will allow you to just cut normal and all the way through the log without the marker being in the way. You can also put marker nuts anywhere along the all thread rod to have additional marking points of reference to cut different lengths of wood.
You make stuff to complicated mark your bar at 16 inches or whatever you cut your wood at paint a mark and use your bar as a ruler
That's what I always did, but I didn't mark it, I just measured the bar with a tape measure and made a mental note of where the 14, 16, 18, and 20 inch lengths were in relation to writing on the side of the bar. After seeing this I can understand why someone might not want to do that though, because it was more work to bend over more and throw the chainsaw on the log sideways then pick it back up again. The one major advantage it had is that you don't have to mark it then come back and finish the cuts, but you just cut one off, then measure from the side of the bar, and then cut the next one all the way through. Each time measuring from the fresh cut end. Another thing that this made me think of, is that it might work well if you made one of these cheater bars that used a c-clamp that went around the end of the bar. This would have the advantage of being a guard against kickbacks if you were to accidentally hit the end of your bar on a log it would hit the c-clamp instead of the chain. It would also be more firmly attached than the magnet and you could cut all the way through the log, as long as there were no other rocks or debris on the other side of the log, and your bar was long enough.
If I can't fix the gadget in the field, I tend to leave it behind. That also solves my China - Japan - Brazil - FarmaTech - HoltzForma - Echo - Husqvarna - Stihl (et al.) chainsaw debate
I guess I'm blessed or I've cut so much firewood that I just eyeball it and am pretty accurate.
Exactly
I like this!! Many say .. Oh, just use a mark on the bar. I have done it but it is a waste of energy turning the saw to measure, then turning it to cut, back and forth. eyeballing.. maybe.. but I sell wood and customers can be picky. plus if you sell by the cord, that is 3 rows of 16 inch pieces. if I guess, I end up running long. there is no money in selling wood for the labor it takes. so, I don't need to give it away. And.. as I move from a 16 inch trunk to a 4 inch limb... my judgement of length changes and I end up either guessing short or long. so, for someone only cutting 4 cords of wood a year.... I am not practiced enough or cut often enough to count on just eyeballing.
When your a logger with OCD.
I had no idea people wasted that much time measuring firewood. I think I did that the first time I ever bucked a firewood log... I've eyeballed it literally every time since then and every cord stacks and burns just the same.
Use the chainsaw bar to measure:)
That's how I have always done it nothing to lose and its always there
It works but still won't be quite as accurate as this. But at what point does it not matter to be 1/4 inch off?
@@paul3502
Me too
I love it, so I'm in my workshop tomorrow making one 😎👍
Use your bar with paint marker / sharpie marks on both side for the length you want. I just eyeball it myself but to be more precise you could mark your bar and then measure that way.
I've never known anyone that needed their fire wood cut that accurately. Its not finish carpentry.
Never, just eyeball it, you lack confidence in your own ability.
Brilliant idea whoever came up with that. I was one of three boys growing up who’s job was marking logs!! This would have been great!
I have a 1" square 70" stick that I have cuts at 16", 32", 48" and 64 ". The last 6" I rounded over the corners as a handle. I lay it on the log, in front of or behind and make my marks with the saw or hatchet. After I mark with the saw I just move the measure stick with my foot and cut all of the way. This one has lasted 2 years, the one before got cut up too much not moving the stick enough. I learned that from an old guy who felled trees and had a sawmill. I worked with him for two winters.
Heavy duty zip tie secured on handle is lighter and less bulky for a measurement tool.
I cut 18" logs with a 16" bar, I just marked the side cover with a sharpie and use the saw as a cheater stick. no parts to break or loose and it cost $0.00
I saw a smart man attach a rubber antenna to the bolt/nut below the chain cover, this way he has it on the saw at all time and doesn't have to worry about taking it off while cutting. It also folds away for storage and for when you are felling.
I use a similar system with my 461 rock boss but for a different reason. I have a length of all thread with a wingnut for the purpose of ensuring a square start to a plunge cut while cutting in/expanding basement windows. But an all thread could be left on if your bar was long enough as a marker...
A tape measure and side walk chalk works very well too!
Enjoyed the video. I just use my 16 inch bar to measure the cuts. Nice to see you more relaxed in your most recent videos.
I use the power head itself as a story stick, its already in your hands and gets you close enough plus you don't end up making the extra body movement other methods require
I do lots of this stuff and I think it’s a really great idea . You could very easily just hot glue any stick to any magnet to achieve the same result . My own personal piles are leaning towards random and they have a charm of their own . And it makes tending the fire a bit more interesting because you have a choice .
18" bar = 18" firewood. I line the bar up from tip to saw and viola 18" firewood. Takes about 1 second.
Does anyone use a mark on the saw (at desired size), hold the saw near the log to visually mark your spot and cut. Been doing it for years.
I measured on the bar from the tip to a point for 16" and then scribed a line across the bar. When cutting I lay the saw bar on the log with the scribed mark at the end of a log, then rev the motor and raise the saw so the tip cuts a mark and that is the 16" mark I cut. Repeat very easy to do
Glad to see something sensible. Watching this video had me worrying everyone was nuts
Mighty Conker I'm glad that you see the logic! I have been doing it this way for many years. The scribed mark is on both sides so when reversing the bar for even wear out it's there for useage.
You are correct about using a longer bar. When I can, I just put the one I have (similar to the linked one in your description) on the end of the 24" bar on my Husky 572xp, don't have a problem with it. However, if the wood is stacked kinda goofy then I use my Stihl MS211 as a marking saw and then buck with my 572xp.
It's not really a bad trick, but as an old wood butcher, I've always just put the kicks on my last cut and pivot the bar up by the tip and that's your 18 inches.
I cut all my firewood at 16 inches, and just happens the bar on my saw is 16 inches long, so I use my chainsaw bar to measure with ...can move very quickly down the log that way....
Nice I need something like that.. I think I have a piece of central vacuum pipe in the garage.. it’s funny I have the same plastic tool box !
For as long as I've cut wood Ive always just used the front bolt to the end of the bar on a 16 inch bar, and went from the a mark on my bar to the tip with the longer bars. I never lost, dropped or forgot to bring one with.
I have always used a 18 inch bar.( 40 yrs). I just use the bar.. my stove It could fit up to 22 inch log.
5:40 isn't your chainsaw also a "mechanical device"? LOL
Loved your humble common sense and explanation. Also enjoyed the musical time filler during demonstrations.
Great idea. I like the comment added about forgetting the magnet & just using the hole in the bar a bit better. Regardless, nice video. Nice commentary. This is one of the few videos I've watched that has tons of experts. There's more negativity coming from the experts than there is on gun videos. Gimme a break.
use your eyes like everyone else or the bar on the chainsaw
Yep haha
I've never known any other way, we put a sharpie or paint pen line on the bar or side cover to mark the length we want turn the saw sideways see where it lines up and cut there no extra tools not likely to wear off always with you why is this method so rare?