Oh, NOW you tell me. 😉 You remember that (oily) intake manifold the OTHER machine shop glass beaded for me? It took FOREVER for me to clean it out thoroughly. There was lots of grit. Still spooked me. Of course that was before I knew you and you taught me better. Listen to Danny, folks! Cuz if you don't, you're gonna have a bad time.
Excellent tips. I have never liked powder coating I find a proper paint job lasts longer at least this has been my experience up here in Canada. I have gone away from glass bead as years ago a friend suggested I try crushed walnut shells. I agree everything you warned about still applies, as I think the shells may be even worse than glass bead, but I just love the finish it leaves on the aluminum. A beautiful satin sheen.
Super free tip on glass beading small parts.. Get a tupperware container about 6" tall or so and drill dozens of small holes in the bottom and some along the bottom sides. Cut a hole in the lid for your bead blaster nozzle. Fill with parts blast and shake. The container will last for years and not burn through. On parts that I want to look like new aluminum use Krylon - Dull Aluminum- spray paint. Hard to find but works like magic.
Another tip for your bead blaster. Put a vacuum gauge on the suction side. Hold the trigger down wide open. adjust your pressure for highest vacuum. Now you have the optimum pressure for the most amount of beads that can be pulled through. @@MrDanielSoliz
Question for you bud. I just got done with a build and it was running weird so i thought it was the timing. Well i had all but 1 bolt out of the timing cover when i realized the timing was fine it was a vacuum hose leaking. Now, do i need to take the cover off and reapply RTV or was it ok to just put the bolts back in to spec??
The stories I could tell about glassbead and magnesium/aluminum blocks... 🤦 My boss used to blast VW blocks for customers at an "additional charge" but only he would do it after the "new guy", (NOT ME!), tried to do it as a side job and blasted the INSIDE of a block... 😢 No way was that bead ever getting removed until the engine warmed up to operating temp and all the pores of the metal just let all the grit loose.🤷 The slurry that came out looked like valve grinding compound! 😳🙄
I love clean and shiny but at the expense of an engine. It takes a lot of time to clean it all out. Thanks for your comment, hopefully this help someone! 🙌
Great video and tips thank you🇺🇸💪
Thanks for the lesson, Danny. It’s appreciated.
My pleasure!
Oh, NOW you tell me. 😉 You remember that (oily) intake manifold the OTHER machine shop glass beaded for me? It took FOREVER for me to clean it out thoroughly. There was lots of grit. Still spooked me. Of course that was before I knew you and you taught me better. Listen to Danny, folks! Cuz if you don't, you're gonna have a bad time.
Oh wow!
Seems like good advise not only to preserve your engine but also how not loose money, ruining your engine.
Excellent tips. I have never liked powder coating I find a proper paint job lasts longer at least this has been my experience up here in Canada. I have gone away from glass bead as years ago a friend suggested I try crushed walnut shells. I agree everything you warned about still applies, as I think the shells may be even worse than glass bead, but I just love the finish it leaves on the aluminum. A beautiful satin sheen.
Thanks for the tips, Danny. Please, would you give tips on concrete?
Cool I will.👍
Super free tip on glass beading small parts.. Get a tupperware container about 6" tall or so and drill dozens of small holes in the bottom and some along the bottom sides. Cut a hole in the lid for your bead blaster nozzle. Fill with parts blast and shake. The container will last for years and not burn through. On parts that I want to look like new aluminum use Krylon - Dull Aluminum- spray paint. Hard to find but works like magic.
Awesome idea Mike, this is one that I’m most definitely going to try. Thanks 🙌
Another tip for your bead blaster. Put a vacuum gauge on the suction side. Hold the trigger down wide open. adjust your pressure for highest vacuum. Now you have the optimum pressure for the most amount of beads that can be pulled through. @@MrDanielSoliz
@@mikegoodman447 love it! I’ll have to do a glass bead cabinet tips and tricks video, can I give you credit by name?
You take all the credit. Anybody that is a Smokey fan is A+ in my book.@@MrDanielSoliz
@@mikegoodman447 #smokeybelongs. 🙌
Awesome
Question for you bud. I just got done with a build and it was running weird so i thought it was the timing. Well i had all but 1 bolt out of the timing cover when i realized the timing was fine it was a vacuum hose leaking. Now, do i need to take the cover off and reapply RTV or was it ok to just put the bolts back in to spec??
Just put the bolts back it , not a problem.
The stories I could tell about glassbead and magnesium/aluminum blocks... 🤦 My boss used to blast VW blocks for customers at an "additional charge" but only he would do it after the "new guy", (NOT ME!), tried to do it as a side job and blasted the INSIDE of a block... 😢 No way was that bead ever getting removed until the engine warmed up to operating temp and all the pores of the metal just let all the grit loose.🤷 The slurry that came out looked like valve grinding compound! 😳🙄
I love clean and shiny but at the expense of an engine. It takes a lot of time to clean it all out. Thanks for your comment, hopefully this help someone! 🙌
I should hope you’ve never used concrete for block reinforcement.
Back in the day we did,(years ago)now we use Moroso block fill.
A classic "do what i say not what i do"
Because yes sometimes you can do something. But its risky and you need to know what you are doing.