Garage door sticks jerks jolts pops - Common causes
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 3 июл 2024
- If interested in purchasing this product, visit our Amazon affiliate link below. I earn from qualifying purchases.
amzn.to/3rZc8Tc
Visit our Amazon Affiliate store, as an Amazon Affiliate, I earn from qualifying purchases.
www.amazon.com/shop/diywithmi... 
Хобби
If interested in purchasing this product, visit our Amazon affiliate link below. I earn from qualifying purchases.
amzn.to/3rZc8Tc
Visit our Amazon Affiliate store, as an Amazon Affiliate, I earn from qualifying purchases.
www.amazon.com/shop/diywithmichaelborders?ref=inf_own_diywithmichaelborders
At end of your video, door is still jerking. Try what I have recommended and it will run smoother. Lubricate opener rail & carriage, top & bottom as well. Makes a huge difference. Trying to help, really
Very comprehensive and concise. Well done.
Hey Ryan, that’s very kind of you to say. Comments like this mean the world to us.
Let us know if you have any questions. We are hanging out watching college football answering any and all questions for the DIY community.
😎👍
I ordered the lithium hopefully to help but I have noticed that the part that moves along the track to pull up the door shakes. Would appreciate any advice on that.
My garage door is brand new and it jerks when opening . And makes a racket…I’ll check out your advice.
Good morning, keep us posted. 😎👍
Spray lube fixed our garage doors in a jiffy, thanks!
Awesome, we are happy to help. 😁
Let us know if you have any questions and hey if you’re into crypto trading, join our newly launched DIY ecosystem.
toolboxtoken.com
Reach out to us any time! 🧰
You forgot to mention that lubricating the other joints on the door could be helpful, and the bar that supports the chain on some systems can also be lubricated
Thanks for watching and sharing your helpful advice. Any and all helpful info, feedback, and advice is greatly appreciated. 👍🧰
If you watch very closely, you will see that the belt (or is it a chain?) goes slack every time a roller passes the edge of the curved section of track. This happens with my door, too. This is an indication that the closing and opening force is not consistent across the range of motion. I had to turn up the allowable force so that the door did not automatically retract when closing.
I find that there is a spot near the top of the curved section on both sides where the width of the track is slightly wider, making the vertical position of the rollers slightly lower when they nestle into this spot. I would think that is causing the symptom. Any thoughts?
Thanks for watching and thats by design. The rollers need additional play as they enter the rounded section of track.
I find this divot does cause the problems with my door. I cannot confirm whether the divot is by design. And I have to admit that I do not appreciate that the play is required, or even helpful. But by design or not, my new experiment from yesterday is very telling:
I filled in the divots on both sides with three layers of duct tape and cut up soda can, tapered to make the rail bottom more nearly level in this region. The soda can pieces were 1.5, 2 and 2.5" long, about 3/8" wide.
There is a "force" setting on my door, which determines how much resistance to motion is required to cause the door to go back up for safety purposes. Before changing the divot profile, the force was set to 5 (on a 1-to-9 range) by automatic setting at installation time. A few months later I had to manually set it to 6 to avoid these reversing actions, and a few months after that I had to up it to 7, which has been sufficient for a few more months. The non-uniformity of force was obvious by feel with the carriage disconnect, as well as by the varying slack as I expressed in my first message.
With the divots filled, the non-uniformity is markedly lower, though still quite evident. But the door does not reverse even with the force setting at "1," its lowest. (I have reset it to "5" for extra margin.)
I would recommend this change for some people who observe jerking, once per segment, and have a subtle divot of about 1/16 inch in the rail bottoms.
@@joegorin3286
Thanks for sharing this and that’s very interesting. Definitely a cool way to experiment.
So my garage door only jerks sometimes when I first open it. And often it will start to lift but then it will stop. Then it will work as long as I hold the button down. This only happens every two or three times that I do it which is the strange thing. Also sometimes if I start to push the garage door button to close it it will click multiple times and not do anything unless I push the button and hold it to go down. But it seems to be very very finicky. Any ideas?
Thanks for watching, it’s possible that an electrical short is occurring. Do you notice any damaged wires traveling from wall-mounted push button all the way to sensors and ceiling mounted motor/track?
If all looks good, there may be something interfering with the frequency. A few examples include:
1. New Internet installed and modem is too close to garage door opener.
2. Recent power lines installed near home
3. Time of day where sun is shining directly onto sensors
4. New security system installed
And if your home is close to your neighbors, and they have had any of these above items added to their home recently… It may be affecting and interfering with your garage door frequency.
I have one loud popping sound coming from my new garage door. Pops when a certain section runs through. Pops once going up and once going down in the same section. Any suggestions?
Thanks for watching. In most cases, that is do to a roller getting bound up on the track. There might be a small section of the track that’s slightly offset, loose, or bent however it may be more likely that you have one single worn out roller that is passing through a section of track and not continuously rolling.
In other words, the roller may be getting to a point along the track where the roller experiences a litter more pressure (usually in the upper bend) and the roller locks up and begins to act like a brake pad…ultimately leading to the popping once the pressure is released from the roller.
Another cause could be a that a single link on the chain is damaged and once passing through the upper motor…it creates that slight hiccup and leads to the popping.
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders thank you!!!!!
@@scremdelascrem
👍
The belt seems sag, any solution for belts that sag midway?
Thanks for watching, you will need to adjust the tension on your chain. Many helpful videos on RUclips that shows this procedure.
Keep us posted on your DIY project.
The "L" shaped arm on my garage door strikes the top of the door only on closing. Is there a way to fix this?
Thanks for watching & welcome to the DIY Raptor Club. There is indeed. Yo will need to adjust the arm by removing bolt & nut.
After you remove bolt and nut, you can adjust the arm that will best allow the garage door to operate as designed without striking the ceiling.
Each arm has several holes to allow you to make small adjustments.
😎👍
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders Thanks. It turned out that the J arm only had one screw. I added a second screw and now the arm does not strike the top of the door. The arm was swinging back and forth. This also stopped the noises it was making when it jerked as the door was going down.
@@CarlosGarcia-ls4hn
Awesome Awesome, thanks for taking the time to share this. Enjoy your weekend Carlos.
😎👍
The topmost door panel rollers are adjustable. With the door closed, loosen the single nut/bolt fastener on each side of the top panel. Push the wheel or roller support bracket forward and the door panel should move backwards away from the spring support center bracket in the middle fastened to the front wall. I think that’s what you’re describing. Do both sides so the panel closes making contact with the door frame lip seal, but no so far it leaves an air gap. Is the top panel bowed outwards?
@@SPUDWRENCH
Thanks for sharing. 😎👍
WD 40 is a solvent
Thanks for watching and sharing your thoughts. 😁👍
Appreciate it. Friendly feedback: the constant jerkiness in your video is a bit distracting. Not sure what’s causing it, but it appears like the video was cut and trimmed ever second or two.
Thanks for watching, we appreciate the feedback. Always welcome here.
Thanks for the discussion on track interference. I couldn't see it until today. The upper rail support only had one lag screw in the truss and 2 in drywall. It would bow just enough to make it jump on the on start of closure and then fault. Added a 2x4 between the trusses and now closes with only 1 push of the button.
You are very welcome, and awesome job to you for making it a DIY project.
2x4’s are pretty price friendly and getting your unit back working properly and efficiently is always a good thing.
Looking forward to 2024, many more helpful videos to come! ☕️🧰
It isn't the door that is screaming ;)
It's me 😓
Good morning, we are drinking our morning coffee answering any and all questions for the DIY community.
Let us know if you have any questions, thanks for watching. 😎👍