Thank you for the video, I am struggling with my car engine 6429, W211 2009 E320 CDI V6. I have to drive it slowly and smoothly, otherwise it sort of like halts and jumps intermittently especially after take off at gear 2 and 3 and at high speeds if I accelerate maybe to overtake. The diagnostic test pointed to the Turbo Actuator, which we then replaced but it got worse after that, and now it doesn't even throw any codes, the test comes out clean. Sometimes it does this halting and skipping when it's time to change to the next gear. And sometimes when coming to a stop you feel as though it cuts off power abruptly as if you hit the brakes hard. Just for more info, there is been an oil leak by that Mass Airflow Meter and Turbo. At higher speeds it is better - but if you get to an incline - you can feel an up and down rhythm - pull - brake, pull - brake as if it want to stop then go, stop then go - feels like the car is dancing. What could this be, turbo, airflow sensor, actuator maybe, or those solenoids or something else.? The car has just been serviced with genuine Merc parts - Engine, Gearbox and new engine mountings - This issue was already there before the service, mileage is 165500km.
Hi how are you ? Thank you for your beautiful, informative videos... I have a big problem. After changing the board, testing the solenoids without pressurizing, complete disassembly of the valves, installation of Sonnax, draining of new BVA and converter...connector to controller, my problem remains the same...box in degraded mode and not more than 3000 revolutions.... It goes from D to R with jerk and does not shift gears... I cannot pressure test the solenoids.... thank you for your help...
Thanks, I have a 2005 Mercedes C230 Kompressor, I already change the conductor plate but the problem persist, the ECM is clean and is not full of oil so I assume it is good. So the next step is to check the solenoid which I should have checked before putting everything back together but I wasn't informed. So resistance should be between 2.5 and 6.5 ohms and doing the volts test to see if they still switch on and off for all of them right! He said he checked 3 but isn't there a total of 5? Thanks for the info :)
Great Video. What about the other three solenoids, is testing the same for those? Can you put a picture of your air test tool on the page so I can try the same test?
I just changed my conductor plate (had shop do) and my s600 still doesn't shift past second gear. I don't know if they checked solenoids. Could this still be the issue? I plan to pull it down myself. I only had shop do it because they just got done doing a different car and it was successful and fast.
Hi Nice informative video. Could please tell me about 722.9 blue cap and black cap solenoids? Are they both checked at 12v or they need to be checked at different volts. Just don't want to blow up solenoid by testing them on wrong or higher voltage. Secondly do we have to get it programmed or calibrate after replacing faulty solenoid with new one. I'll appreciate your reply . Thank you
Good to see the vacuum test on it. I have a 6hp26 box and am testing the 6 solenoids. Only one holds a good vacuum. The others seem to lose pressure around the snout where I believe is the brass bushing for the shaft. I can hear hissing. Worn I assume and need replacing? Thanks
thank you for your always great videos! i wanna ask you please, i have a subaru xv crosstreck, i performed myself a fluid change following the MT chanel here in youtube, ive always flet something strange and i thougt the new cvt fluid could fix, or at less soft the problem...it kept going and i saw a video explaining how often this transmition have a failure in the tork lock up solenoid...ive measure my solenoid and i saw one of them not measures properlly... it seems to be it...bad solenoid...my question is...can a bad solenoid ruin or brake a good torque converter?...should i try to fix this as soon as posible?...subaru dosent sell only solenoid...they give the entyre valve body...its ok if i buy only solenoid from amazon or ebay?...thank you very much.
on a mercedes e63 what are the 4 wires for on the gearbox wiring plug. I am doing a project and it will not start without this plug connected. I wish to use a manual gearbox for my 5.5 bi turbo project so need to by pass the plug to allow it to start engine. Wires are red? brown blue? blue white suppose small wires are can bus but i am sure if i know where the wires go i can fool it to start. Please help
How do you make it click? I put the positive and negative the red and black on the battery and touched the two contacts on the solenoid and don’t hear any clicking
Hi, i have MB w203 / 2005 model. Automatic shifting working very good. When i try to use tiptronic, from D direktly transmision alwasy is changing to 1 gear. Example: from 3 to 1 or 4 to 1 Normaly shifting should be D , 4 , 3, 2,1. In high speed if itouch or shift the gear by mistake i can damage the transmision. Any help please.
Thank you for the great channel. Keep up the good work :D All my solenoids are good, however the three A140 277 05 35 shift solenoids don't seem to have a snug fit with the existing o-rings . Meaning they would just drop in and just take the slightest finger pressure to seat (almost nothing). Would you recommend replacing these o-rings while it is apart?
Thanks for the video. I have a C 240 (W203, year 2003). Sometimes the downshifting isn't soft. Upshifting is fine. Could be a problem of sensors ? No error code with diag.
Does these mainly get dirty or faulty if not gearbox oil changed fully? Have like slip on cold and then revs little bit, any common problems if i get p code can you tell? Great video
I have the same gearbox 722.6 and after full rebuild on 9000km(the car was sitting in the garage for 5+ years) on clock (there was no movement in D/R positions in IDLE and almost cant start in D when it is below zero). Now D/R seems to be working but i still have 2-1 push. Usually when i release the gas and the vehicle is stopping it holds the gear a bit longer then shifts down and after 1-2sec it kicks. Do you have any ideas ? Can it be solenoid ?
Thank You for the video I had 2 questions does the polarity matter with the connection between positive/negative? Also, would it be okay to connect one clamp to the copper pin and tap the second clamp to the body of the solenoid would this do any damage?
Hey...could you tell me what the 'normal' resistance range is for the Torque Converter Solenoid is? I can not find it anywhere and figured you must have access to the resistance specs for all of them.
What was your problem I'm getting a shutter and low RPMs just trying to maintain speed and also shutters when I'm stopping if I put it in manual shift it goes away trying to now or something down any suggestions will help I'm thinking the torque converter is having problems going in and out of lockup
The lowest range on your multimeter will probably be 200 ohms. That would be the scale to use, the lowest one higher than 10, since your expected reading is also lower than 10. Once you do it a bit, you'll understand. Good luck.
Do you know how to flush those 722.6 transmissions? I have seen that here in Germany they sell those flushing machines on ebay for around 450€ but supposedly the instructions are typicaly bad (as with many chinese products). So before I buy one I want to see if someone has figured out how to use them correctly. Thanks, Bernhard
Do not buy a machine to flush your transmission. There is a video on RUclips that shows you how to do it with a soft plastic tube and a graduated plastic container (pitcher). I've done it and it works very well.
@@bernhardlist9359 ruclips.net/video/-7IhwezUrUA/видео.html I am sure I watched several, but this was quite good and sufficient. It is really easy. You will have to fabricate a fitting, but if you have a mechanical aptitude, you are well capable. Use a good synthetic oil which is compatible with Mercedes. It will specify on the bottle. I used the occasion to change the filter and gasket and electrical connector. I recommend a genuine Mercedes electrical connector. It was cheap; like 8-10 Euros I think. Best of luck to you.
fantastic in depth info on your channel helps me a lot with my 2005 sprinter project . Thank you
Thank you for the video, I am struggling with my car engine 6429, W211 2009 E320 CDI V6. I have to drive it slowly and smoothly, otherwise it sort of like halts and jumps intermittently especially after take off at gear 2 and 3 and at high speeds if I accelerate maybe to overtake. The diagnostic test pointed to the Turbo Actuator, which we then replaced but it got worse after that, and now it doesn't even throw any codes, the test comes out clean. Sometimes it does this halting and skipping when it's time to change to the next gear. And sometimes when coming to a stop you feel as though it cuts off power abruptly as if you hit the brakes hard. Just for more info, there is been an oil leak by that Mass Airflow Meter and Turbo. At higher speeds it is better - but if you get to an incline - you can feel an up and down rhythm - pull - brake, pull - brake as if it want to stop then go, stop then go - feels like the car is dancing. What could this be, turbo, airflow sensor, actuator maybe, or those solenoids or something else.?
The car has just been serviced with genuine Merc parts - Engine, Gearbox and new engine mountings - This issue was already there before the service, mileage is 165500km.
So clear for understanding! Thanks a lot!!!
You are the Mercedes Dude ! Thank you !
Hi how are you ? Thank you for your beautiful, informative videos... I have a big problem. After changing the board, testing the solenoids without pressurizing, complete disassembly of the valves, installation of Sonnax, draining of new BVA and converter...connector to controller, my problem remains the same...box in degraded mode and not more than 3000 revolutions.... It goes from D to R with jerk and does not shift gears... I cannot pressure test the solenoids.... thank you for your help...
Thank you :) Super video! Thanks alot! I have problems with one solenoid and will use this information to test them when i am going to fix the issue.
thanks for this awesome démonstration!
Thanks! Very helpful. Time to drain the trans
Thanks, I have a 2005 Mercedes C230 Kompressor, I already change the conductor plate but the problem persist, the ECM is clean and is not full of oil so I assume it is good. So the next step is to check the solenoid which I should have checked before putting everything back together but I wasn't informed. So resistance should be between 2.5 and 6.5 ohms and doing the volts test to see if they still switch on and off for all of them right! He said he checked 3 but isn't there a total of 5? Thanks for the info :)
Thank you lovely, explanation
Thanks for shearing. I have a 95 c280 that the TX is due cleaning, it's getting lazy shifting to reverse.
What is TX ?
Diesel Mercedes
transmission, soryy for slang
no problem, I just couldn't figure out what you mean...
Thanks so much man! Very informative
Thank you for your time and information
Nice video....
Fabulous tutorial
Great video. For the pressure test, where is the other side of the hose connected to?
Very good Sir!
That was Beautiful
Great Video. What about the other three solenoids, is testing the same for those? Can you put a picture of your air test tool on the page so I can try the same test?
I just changed my conductor plate (had shop do) and my s600 still doesn't shift past second gear. I don't know if they checked solenoids. Could this still be the issue? I plan to pull it down myself. I only had shop do it because they just got done doing a different car and it was successful and fast.
Hi
Nice informative video.
Could please tell me about 722.9 blue cap and black cap solenoids?
Are they both checked at 12v or they need to be checked at different volts.
Just don't want to blow up solenoid by testing them on wrong or higher voltage.
Secondly do we have to get it programmed or calibrate after replacing faulty solenoid with new one.
I'll appreciate your reply .
Thank you
I like this guy!!
thanks for this good video
Good to see the vacuum test on it. I have a 6hp26 box and am testing the 6 solenoids. Only one holds a good vacuum. The others seem to lose pressure around the snout where I believe is the brass bushing for the shaft. I can hear hissing. Worn I assume and need replacing? Thanks
Awesome video! Subscribed!!
very good video,,,after replacing solenoids, do you have to re program? or just start and drive?
Thanks for that 😃👍🏻
fantastic channel, any info on the ideal resistance of other three solenoids?
It's the same think and for c230 1.8L year 2008? Have stuck in 2rd gear
Just got the p2180 code on my 09 c300 ? Any ideas and tips
thank you for your always great videos!
i wanna ask you please, i have a subaru xv crosstreck, i performed myself a fluid change following the MT chanel here in youtube, ive always flet something strange and i thougt the new cvt fluid could fix, or at less soft the problem...it kept going and i saw a video explaining how often this transmition have a failure in the tork lock up solenoid...ive measure my solenoid and i saw one of them not measures properlly... it seems to be it...bad solenoid...my question is...can a bad solenoid ruin or brake a good torque converter?...should i try to fix this as soon as posible?...subaru dosent sell only solenoid...they give the entyre valve body...its ok if i buy only solenoid from amazon or ebay?...thank you very much.
Great one. Thanks about it
on a mercedes e63 what are the 4 wires for on the gearbox wiring plug. I am doing a project and it will not start without this plug connected. I wish to use a manual gearbox for my 5.5 bi turbo project so need to by pass the plug to allow it to start engine. Wires are red? brown blue? blue white suppose small wires are can bus but i am sure if i know where the wires go i can fool it to start. Please help
How do you make it click? I put the positive and negative the red and black on the battery and touched the two contacts on the solenoid and don’t hear any clicking
Where can I buy this around Limpopo or gauteng
Do the other (TCC, Pressure and shift pressure) solenoids operate at the same voltage and in the same way in the 722.6 transmission?
Thank you
Good video!
Thanks
Hi, i have MB w203 / 2005 model.
Automatic shifting working very good.
When i try to use tiptronic, from D direktly transmision alwasy is changing to 1 gear.
Example: from 3 to 1 or 4 to 1
Normaly shifting should be D , 4 , 3, 2,1.
In high speed if itouch or shift the gear by mistake i can damage the transmision.
Any help please.
Ten přízvuk bych poznal všude Ahoooj.
Thank you for the great channel. Keep up the good work :D
All my solenoids are good, however the three A140 277 05 35 shift solenoids don't seem to have a snug fit with the existing o-rings . Meaning they would just drop in and just take the slightest finger pressure to seat (almost nothing). Would you recommend replacing these o-rings while it is apart?
tanck good vidio
Thanks for the video. I have a C 240 (W203, year 2003). Sometimes the downshifting isn't soft. Upshifting is fine. Could be a problem of sensors ? No error code with diag.
did you find a solution?
Would the 12 volt car battery be ok to test with?
Does these mainly get dirty or faulty if not gearbox oil changed fully? Have like slip on cold and then revs little bit, any common problems if i get p code can you tell? Great video
Did you find a solution?
I have the same gearbox 722.6 and after full rebuild on 9000km(the car was sitting in the garage for 5+ years) on clock (there was no movement in D/R positions in IDLE and almost cant start in D when it is below zero). Now D/R seems to be working but i still have 2-1 push. Usually when i release the gas and the vehicle is stopping it holds the gear a bit longer then shifts down and after 1-2sec it kicks. Do you have any ideas ? Can it be solenoid ?
Have you solved? Mine acting same
the other solenoids doesn't click much, normal?
Hello AndyP
Mercedes Ml W164
722.902 on mode P or R the car do not move , is like N free
No fault code on the diag
Do you have an idea ? Thank
Did u find out what happened
Z
If you took them out why not simply replace them?
Thank You for the video I had 2 questions does the polarity matter with the connection between positive/negative? Also, would it be okay to connect one clamp to the copper pin and tap the second clamp to the body of the solenoid would this do any damage?
Harish Jinger it says plus and minus on them
you talked so fast. The first resistance reading is 4.5, so how it is defective since the range must be between 2.5 to 6.5 ohms? Is that what I heard?
I like work for you
Hey...could you tell me what the 'normal' resistance range is for the Torque Converter Solenoid is? I can not find it anywhere and figured you must have access to the resistance specs for all of them.
2-4 Ohms
What was your problem I'm getting a shutter and low RPMs just trying to maintain speed and also shutters when I'm stopping if I put it in manual shift it goes away trying to now or something down any suggestions will help I'm thinking the torque converter is having problems going in and out of lockup
JT 1200 Did you find the issue? Was it the torque converter or the solenoid?
Ok, so where does one set the multimeter too? 🤷🏼♀️🤦♀️
The lowest range on your multimeter will probably be 200 ohms. That would be the scale to use, the lowest one higher than 10, since your expected reading is also lower than 10. Once you do it a bit, you'll understand. Good luck.
Why diesel???
Do you know how to flush those 722.6 transmissions? I have seen that here in Germany they sell those flushing machines on ebay for around 450€ but supposedly the instructions are typicaly bad (as with many chinese products).
So before I buy one I want to see if someone has figured out how to use them correctly.
Thanks, Bernhard
Do not buy a machine to flush your transmission. There is a video on RUclips that shows you how to do it with a soft plastic tube and a graduated plastic container (pitcher). I've done it and it works very well.
istvan meissler
Do you remember which video it was? Was it the guy who disconnected the hose at the oilcooler?
Thanks
@@bernhardlist9359 ruclips.net/video/-7IhwezUrUA/видео.html
I am sure I watched several, but this was quite good and sufficient. It is really easy. You will have to fabricate a fitting, but if you have a mechanical aptitude, you are well capable. Use a good synthetic oil which is compatible with Mercedes. It will specify on the bottle. I used the occasion to change the filter and gasket and electrical connector. I recommend a genuine Mercedes electrical connector. It was cheap; like 8-10 Euros I think. Best of luck to you.
I love how you don't even show how you apply the connectors to the contact points
There's only 2 😂
Sucks cause you are not showing where you are touching the tester cables
what year of this mercedes
2004 C240 Wagon 4MATIC.....
Thank you.