There are many videos of working on the 722.6 but none have given me the confidence yours has due to the inclusion of every step without glossing over the fine detail. I have also never seen anyone keep as clean as you did in a long sleeved shirt so I'm doubly impressed.
Thank you Gary for your great video. Very informative, this is the second transmission I have fixed thanks to you. I did my BMW 750li and the one on the Mercedes Benz e320. Thank you to the master
Gary Ferraro hello Gary I have a issue I wanted to ask you so I purchased a low mile nag1 for a 2005 Chrysler 300 and my auto stick shifter when I go to manual mode it always go straight into 4th gear no matter what speed or when I'm parked it doesn't go down to 1st at all I have to keep tapping it to get into the lower gears wondering what is causing this to happen
I have a -02 mercedes e500 and I was wondering about this also but on our cars you can only select the highest gear with stick. So if you put it to 4 it'll use 1-4 gears etc.
Many thanks for this Gary, very detailed and helpful video. I was searching for the torque spec for the bolts on the valvebody itself, you said 17 inch pounds which equates to about 2 nm, thanks for this! :)
Thanks so much for the video very helpful really appreciate the detail of the position of the check balls, I misplaced 2 in one valve body and thanks to your video I found out the correct place, once again thank you
Bro, your awesome video and the way that you explain procedures gave me confidence and inspired me to go a step further than the Conductor Plate that I was about to install. I ordered a Sonnax "Overlap Control Valve Sleeve" Kit to install while I have the Valve Body out. I say this with all admiration and respect, I can't believe how fast, and that you actually did, reply to my questions, which I really needed the answers to! You are the best and I had already subscribed before you replied.
@@GaryFerraro My s500 stopped shifting out of neutral. It went very quickly. It slipped in and out of gear a few times during the last drive, and then limped mode home in 3rd. I reset comp and modules, and it acts like it just doesnt engage clutch plates/solenoids. I have only neutral and reverse. The cluth plates between early gears is suspect, of the conductor plate/sol. I cleaned water our of the rear sam a year ago. I suspect more corrosion, but didn't want to spin my wheels if the rear sam traction control can't affect this. The shift module is also suspect, since my tranny only shifts between neutral and park with the brake pedal- (disengaged)....it's backwards. I was never stuck in park like most, and it has been this way for several years. I have to release the brake to put it in park. switching around break pedal wires did not reverse it. The + - shifting does nothing now I noticed. Please help.
Hi! I would like to thank you very much for this video ! Helped me out when i was cleaning my valvebody and some of the check balls went out and i didn’t know where they go...
Good job Gary....I'v got a Hyundai elantra with automatic transmission that jerks hard 'only' from 2nd to 3rd after a cold start or when the transmission is cold.....after about 15 minutes of driving, the 2nd-3rd harsh shifts resolves and the transmission shifts smoothly......I have no engine code, but have replaced my atf twice, speed sensors and tps sensor but the problem remains.......Could it be due to a dirty valve body?
Gary, very good informative video. I have a problem since 2008 when I bought the car. It is a 2001 E320, 185K now. Fluid changes are at 70K, 100K, 130K and 155K. My problem is a bit weird, when I accelerate decisively it shifts like a butter, say like in a stop n go traffic somebody brakes in front of me and if I hesitate or when I’m accelerating decisively but a light turns to yellow or I notice the speed limit is low and I ease off from the pedal, I believe it is 2nd and 3rd car also hesitates, it just does not roll smoothly. If this happens during the acceleration, from 2 to 3 car feels like as if something pulling from the back for a second then with a slight boom feeling it slams to next gear and from there it is fine. Or during the slow down which happens everyday at the same spot in front of my office, there is stop sign ahead and when I ease of from the gas it lowers the gear very noticeable, not that smooth. All of this stuff happens 15-30 mile range which I assume 2nd and 3rd gear range again. I’m suspecting either solenoids or somewhere in the valve body but could not narrow it down. Like I said this is going on since I got the car in 2008 with 50K miles. I apologize if it’s too long, just wanted to get a second opinion before I tackle with the job. Have a good evening.
Suwon city, South Korea! Ssangyong is the name of Car manufactuer in South Korea. The SUV model 'New Rexton' has MB 722.6 5 stage transmission and 2.7 liter CRDI Diesel Engine. Thanks~
Gary, thank you for the interest on helping me, I have been driving this car for about 35000 miles yerking when am driving slow all the time , a weeek ago I replaced the trainy and the converter Oil filter, I was thinking on the Torkconverter control solenoid but the two transmissions?
yes on the schematic I have that is what I thought,(alldata). so if the O-rings are worn could that be an issue? also this is the second conductor plate I installed with this reading. so I am on second plate and changed out 1,2-4,5 solenoid. , so on hunt for O-rings and any advice you may have, thanks so much for your fast response, take care,, great channel. I new I should have gotten into transmission repair. joe
Good video and thanks for posting it. I like your idea with the aerosol can modification! I was a little surprised at the title of being an "overhaul" except for a couple new O rings and a cleaning of some(not all) of the internal and external components that is all that I saw was done. I have a hard time believing that a simple removal, cleaning and reassembly would take care of material deficiencies in the internal parts. Perhaps you did the overlap sleeves and other Sonnax kit installations in this valve body off video? When I did the work on mine I wish now that I would have separated the two halves and inspected, cleaned filter screens, replaced the check balls and replaced that other valve. I did however make sure all the passage ways that go to the internal parts were clean. I also wish I would have replaced the solenoids and installed the Sonnax TCC Damper Valve and Sleeve kit: 68942-23K. Again, thanks for the video!
Very good video. Two questions: 1) How does anyone let their ATF get SO dark/dirty/burnt that it looks like well used engine oil? 2) When you're torqueing the v. body bolts to 70 in lbs with a real torque indicating torque wrench, if you are not grasping the torque wrench by its handle, are you not skewing the accuracy of the torque wrench?
These 722.6 are in sprinters, they drive them til they stop moving. Yes you are correct about the torque wrench, there actually is a video out there on that issue
Stripped my trans today and it all looks good cant find and real reason i had slip from 3-4 when hot as well as it locking out and jumping into neutral every now and again its driving me mad, sprags are perfect clutches have plenty of wear left by the looks of it and all the bearings intact. Just the b3 piston to remove and check now. Your video has been life saver iv lost count how many times iv watched it so stripping down my trans was easy. If you have any ideas on what else i can check pls let me know cheers again
+The huntsman Even though the sprags may look good, they probably are not, the sprags are the bridges to the shifts, i would change the F1 and F2 sprags, the f2 is the bridge to the 3-4 shift.
+Gary Ferraro ok as iv never done a trans like this and because they felt so tight and new i jumped to conclusions, i hope you enjoyed Barbados and going back to work hasnt been to hard !! Cheers again
Hello. My gearbox gives a jerk at 1600-1800 rpm. A mechanic cleaned the block, it worked fine for 2.3 days, now it started doing it again. Did he get dirty again? Or is it another problem?
Hi Gary, I used your video to put in 2 Sonnax kits, & the Transgo kit. I just found 1 of the Pressure Solenoid Strainers on my garage floor :( I guess I need another one to make sure that when I pull the valve body again to put the 1 back in I will have both. How important are these? Thanks, Dave
Hello Gary i have a 722.6 trans and it doesn’t engage when i put it in drive or reverence and it gave a P0700. What are your thoughts and where you think i should start looking
Hello, what should be replaced while your gearbox 722.6 is taken off/on table, O rings, bearing, simering, etc please advise. My hydraulic converter need to be send for regeneration. Very helpful video, thanks!
If your going to take the transmission apart, the 2 sprags called F1 and F2 these sprags is a common failure. I would put a new conductor plate, new filter and pan gasket, also while apart check the clutch disc's for wear.
Thank you for quick answer, just like to mention the transmission is on w212 2011year, 110K miles, torque converter gone and shall I do what you advise above or is something extra, I would like to do the whole thing in one piece. Thank you.
Hi Gary, may I ask you a question? I experienced harsh shifting with my 722.6 and the exact description would be as follows: Summer mode - 1 - 2 harsh all day long; 2-1 huck at each stop... Winter mode: ONLY first shift 2-3 (does not go to 1 in winter mode) is harsh and after that all day long the car is as smooth as butter. I was almost sure there must be some dirt and I decided to open-up the valve body, clean and also install Sonnax sleeves 1-2; 4-5 and 2-3. I did everything according to the book (service manual) and I watched all available videos on the planet (not all, all)... I am very (extremely) cautious and I believe I did the job right. After installing and filling up the precise amount of liquid I disposed, the car will not shift what so ever... Not even in manual. I checked and re-checked the electrical socket and it's all fine. Could you please point me to something (SOMETHING) which I might have missed. My AUTEL MAXI DAS computer with transmission abilities found no error (it found recently the speed sensor on the conductor plate and I replaced it), but now it's not telling me anything. Is there a "filling-up" procedure I might have missed? Also, if I would havce installed the valves back in an erratic mode, I believe I would still get some erratic behavior... I'm asking you because I can tell if I see someone who knows his thing... :) Any answer will be highly appreciated. Also my car is "on hold"...
It's not stuck at all. It's like it is not getting any command from the shifter. Not even in manual... I went thru all gears and there is ZERO reaction. I would say that if I inverted some valve or any other part, I would give some sign, but it's completely dead
ok, does this pull off slow from a dead stop like your in a higher gear. On your scanner, look at live data to see what gear is being commanded. Do you have the "tool" to check fluid level?
I do have the tool. I opened it again and what I noticed was that the Sonnax sleeves were very stiff, also the inside of the sleeves don't accommodate very smoothly the small pistons. Since the genuine sleeves didn't show any sign of wear, I reinstalled those back on. I just finished -up and I'll get yet another fresh fluid from the store (I converted two years and 12k miles from MB to Valvoline 100% Synthetic - Mercedes approved)... So I'll garb fluid, fill it up and let you know if I'm good. Could also be that the Sonnax sleeves were a knock-of since I got them on Ebay... Thank you so much for your quick answers. Talk to you soon :)
Beautiful helpful video Gary! If ive found some aluminum shavings on the vb is there a possibility that some of the small shavings to go inside the vb and getting stuck there? And Do all the valves have to come out to clean the vb?
Im sure some stuff is inside the valve body, as long as the valves are free, they won't have to come out, these valve bodies are good rarely have problems with them
Gary Ferraro cant tell it’s slipping between gears but randomly after a stop when try to leave engine just rev like in N even though card is in D and if im coming suddenly on a stop while cruising the downshifting feels delayed like kicks in the back.If turn engine off than on car’s back to normal like nothing happened shifts smooth nothing erratic
Thanks for the video can I also used the brakeleen cleaner on the solenoids or can I use electric cleaner and what is the "blue" stuff that you are putting on the solenoid before pushing them in?
Great work Gary, Where do you get these solenoid o-rings from? My transmission slipped before. How often do you replace torque converter clutch damper valve? Also a pressure regulator, lube regulator and overlap sleeves? (There is Transgo shift kit for 722.6 I want to pit in, you think this will help? (Transgo 722.6A shift kit)
I was watching the video you did on 99 E 320 delay inshift.while you were checking on shift module using the chart and voltmeter.i did the same on my car though mine is 98 C280 and some readings where off.
Hello Gary and thank you for this tutorial. I have a w220 3.2 cdi 2004 , and starting from last week it gave me trouble. The only code i get is P2502 The gear is implausible or the transmission is slipping. The symptoms are hard vibrations when almost is about to shift or around 1200 - 1300 rpm, and sometimes when i stay more in traffic doesn't want to move anymore. If i turn the engine off then on, starts to move but the vibrations are still there. Sometimes harder sometimes not so hard but i can feel them. I changed the oil first thing and when i removed the oil pan was a lot of golden particles on the bottom. I put 7 liters of low quality oil. driven for 10 min, all the gears , very easy then changed the oil again with Febi Bilstein 236.14 according to MB document : 5-speed automatic transmission 722.6 Only use the transmission oils outlined in specification for operating fluids sheet 236.14. See WIS document: BB.00.40-p-0236-14a. Can u gave me your opinion please ? Thank you very much Cristian. LE: I didn't knew exactly the quantity of the oil because i didn't have an dipstick. I estimate that i took out about 6 liters and i added same quantity.
Hello, When you did the service, did you change the filter? Do you feel this on the 1-2 shift? Since you did the oil change how is it? Thanks for watching. Gary
+Gary Ferraro Sorry about confusing you. The vibrations are still there. If i push the throttle hard, no bump and no vibration. Only if i drive normally.
Does it cause any problem if you don’t pour any transmission oil into the lines of the valve body? You just cleaned it and put all together. Second question what blue grease are did you use to protect the seals ?
It will not cause any issue, i usually do not put any oil. The blue Grease is call Transgel, special for transmissions, as soon as the grease heats up it melts
hello gary I have a wrangler jk year 2013 NAG1. For 6 months, at a cold start, I have had a kickdown type effect before the passage of the 2nd and before the passage of the 3rd. I also notice it in sequential mode. If I accelerate hard, the phenomenon decreases otherwise, 15 minutes later, with the engine hot, everything seems imperceptible. If I do 4 * 4 first on steep slopes, kickdown type effect from time to time. In assisting the descent, sometimes the car releases the assistance for a few seconds and the engine brakes disappear. Then appeared a feeling of under revs at low speed or in traffic jams. In fact after observation, I have significant losses of engine speed which make the car vibrate, the same in sequential. Likewise, when I brake at low speed, the car vibrates a bit I notice I'm in 3rd, if I switch to 2 sequentially and it stops. This week, in the mountains, these worries are almost non-existent, the same if I drive fast, everything is fine. I feel these low revs and these vibrations especially in 3rd before the 2nd engages. I just changed the TCM, and still the same. The oil change was done 10,000 km ago with mb 236.14 and not with ATF + 4 MOPAR. I am told that the hydraulic block must be changed ??? thank you for your attention
@@GaryFerraro Hello Garry and thank you for your interest in my problem. the transmission oil change was carried out 6 months ago, at the onset of symptoms and it did not improve anything. The level has been checked by 2 different mechanics and is correct. Jeep dealer did not find any error message ... unfortunately :(
@@GaryFerraro I feel it just before the passage of the second gear because it also occurs in sequential mode in 1st and also before the passage of the third because I feel it in the second in sequential. The phenomenon then seems to disappear or is less noticeable after 20 minutes of driving. The most annoying in my problem is the significant loss of power which occurs without explanation and which causes an under revving of the engine which makes my car tremble especially in 3rd at low speed in town, just after a slight acceleration to regain speed. There is also a bad feeling of driving and a slight tremor when braking when I am not going fast which is also very unpleasant ... when this happens the car is almost always in 3rd, I then shift to 2nd gear sequentially and the tremor when braking disappears immediately. On the other hand, as I told you, if I accelerate strongly and drive fast or if I drive in the mountains, the transmission seems to be working almost normally and I find a great jeep.
So you just cleaned the bottom on the valve body with all the valves still installed??? My real question is im working on a 722.6 now that started whining and slipping when warm. What do i need to check for while i have valve body out???
If the trans started whining and slipping, sounds like the filter was clogging up, probably the converter clutch is coming apart clogging the filter. If the valves are free and have full movement, no need to take them out of the bore.
Gary Ferraro Thanks Yes there was a little crud on top of valve body. Didnt know what that meant. Its in my video ruclips.net/video/OM9_q1ath-4/видео.html Ill clean valve body and replace filter and try Thanks for the quick reply
My e320 had coolant leaked into ATF and doing this job to flush and clean and replace with new conductor plate? What cleaning solution are you using to clean this up?
Hello. I have this trans in a Jeep Grand Cherokee. Often, when I select reverse the trans will bind and require extra throttle to make car move. If I select drive (not neutral) then reverse again, it's fine. Any ideas? Done 200,000Kms. No fault codes. Thanks for the video too.
Gary recently my on my clk500 has started to hold a gear if I accelerate on the freeway after I let off the pedal. It will eventually drop back down after after a few seconds or if I tap on the gas pedal again. I have 80k on it and I don't know if it's every had the transmission oil changed serviced, I bought it at 53k. I plan on doing that next week. Might that clear it up or since I'll already have it apart should I drop the valve body and overhaul it as well? Or could this also be a sign of a solenoid going bad?
Hi Garry . Where are you based . On my Viano 2.2 when I stop the car by pedal bracke at the traffic lights example the engine still push all the time the car . What do you think , should be it the converter or same thing from the gearbox?
If I keep randomly going into limp mode, but it's not very much.. Then can I just replace the cunductor plate, trans filter, wire plug, gasket and check the solenoids and problem solved? Or will I still need to go to the dealer to have the codes pulled on the tcu and reset. I plan on doing the work myself, I'm very much a diy guy. But when I was doing my research on the project, I came across a thread that said if you plan on doing the diy job yourself that the car would need to be towed not driven to the dealer to reset the tcu after. Which brought my project to a complete hault in fear of doing some type of damage. I feel like his advice was being directed towards someone who is stuck in limp mode, which is not the case with my vehicle. The reason I'm asking, is because the nearest mercedes authorized tech is a 90min drive from where I live.
Well heres the thing, the codes need to be cleared after the job is done, you do not need to have the car towed to clear the codes, you don't even need a Mercedes tech, anyone in your area with a scan tool that can pull codes to confirm a conductor plate issue? and then clear them
@@GaryFerraro Hi Gary, today I opened up the casing and the bloody balls and screens fell out everywhere! My stupid fault for not being careful! I watched your video over and over to see where you place them back in. Would you have a picture of where they go Gary? Sorry for being a pain!
I did replace the conduct plate but the problem is still there.i did clear the code with cheap diagnostic tool but did not clear. what's the way forward?Thanks Gary.
Hi Gary, I bought a 2008 jeep commander with 3.7 engine which uses the same transmission(722.6) NAG1 | The owner told me that he changed the transmission, however after couple months my car stopped going over 30 mph and when I checked it with OBD-II scanner I got error code P0762 (Solenoid c stuck on) whenever I clean the code, it drives normally without any problem but once I go over 65 mph the car stops accelerating over 55-60 mph again right away, and if I stay at 40-45 mph it will get stuck on 30 mph again after couple days. also when the code is not cleared the trans give a whizzing sound. I took out the valve body and the fluid wasn't in a really good shape. Thanks ^_^
that code is a mechanical code, usually means internal problem. When the car heats up do you hear that whining noise? do you hear that noise in all ranges, park, rev, neutral, drive?
I hear the sound when I first start the car and about ten minutes later the sound fades away, also when I change gears the whole car get Shaking hard, but once I clear the code it starts without any problem. just to let you know my mechanic changed the gear again and I'm getting the same problem (shift solenoid c stuck on) | I have found that there's a leak of transmission fluid not sure if the pilot bushing is leaking, also the transmission filter seems to be clogged up. what I'm going to do is changing the fluid, transmission filter and the pilot bushing also I will replace the shift solenoid locations to make sure if it's solenoid problem or something else :)
Hi Gary! I changed the filter, pilot bushing, replaced the replaced solenoid c with another solenoid and added a new trans fluid but the problem wasn't resolved. However, I got a complete valve body from auto parts and replaced it with the one that was in my transmission and the problem was solved. I'm only wondering what is the problem that is causing the (shift solenoid c stuck on) not sure if it's conductor plate or if I need to overhaul the valve body, thanks.
@@Jameel_Khames Conductor plate wouldn't cause a code like that, problem was probably the valvebody, there are valves called overlap valves that like to wear out
@@GaryFerraro Hi again, the code is back again (shift solenoid c stuck on). also when I accelerate the rpms goes up smoothly but once I stop pressing the gas pedal it jumps from 3000 rpm to 1000 or 1500 and sometimes the gear will not shift at all until I turn off the car or erasing the code with OBD ii. not sure if I need to reprogram the PCM or something else is causing the problem.
Hello, are you still answering questions on this video? I followed your excellent instructions and took the valve body apart and cleaned it. My question is after assembling it the dowel pin is very loose and sticks out of the bottom of the body by about 1/8 inch. It just drops out of the body. It dropped in my hand just as I had it in place in the transmission. What did I do wrong? Thank you
Gary, hopefully you're checking this. Of the 6 solenoids, it's obvious which two are the pressure solenoids based on shape alone, but the other 4 - the Lockup, 2/3, 1/2&4/5 and the 3/4, are those four solenoids interchangeable? I've noticed slightly different part numbers and didn't know if those might just be MB revision numbers or if there are specific ones for each of those 4 solenoids. I got an unusual condition just 24 hours after installation in that when downshifting (say 4th to 2nd), the engine revved but it didn't actually downshift. I immediately put it in neutral and coasted to a stop. I re-engaged into drive and all was fine. Won't try it again but I'm wondering if I have a misplaced solenoid or even a bad one from the kit I bought. Thanks!
@@GaryFerraro Thank you for the quick reply! Are there part # differences between the shift solenoids and the lock up solenoid? Do you know what they are?
@@Daveykid The parts numbers between them are different because the lock-up solenoid is not the same as the shift. The solenoids rarely go bad, are you changing them?
I did change them out but I still have the originals. Was getting a hard shift from 1-2 and 2-3 only during cold operation. Like the first 3-5 blocks in colder weather. Thought perhaps a solenoid went bad so I replaced them all along with a new conductor plate, electric plug and related gaskets, washers, etc, filter, fluid. I'm thinking I might just bench test the original solenoids before putting them in to make certain they work and then just putting them back in with the new conductor plate and other hardware.
Overhauled my valve body with the help of this video, and i put everything back together, filling the trans with the same amount of new fluid as i measured coming out. Now i have an issue when putting the car into gear, it goes into gear nicely then after only a second, the car comes out of gear, as if one of the clutches are depressurizing. i have no idea why this would happen. i took video footage of the disassembly and reassembly and viewed the footage several times to make sure everything went back together 100% correctly, now this happens. would you have any idea what would cause this, coming from your several years of experience? i took the valve body out to try and fix a torque converter shutter, the car shifted fine BEFORE rebuilding the valve body.....
Gary Ferraro yes, the car goes in reverse, but then drops out of gear after about a second. Like I said it feels as though the necessary clutches are engaged for at least a second to achieve forward OR backward motion, but then after that second it's as if the valve body depressurizes those circuts. The same exact thing happens in forward and reverse.
I have a mechanical that is going to try to clean this part and its sensors...after I explained my rpm gauge keeps having hickups (downs and and back up) with a steady throtlle pedal. And when the rpm falls temporaly down the prop shaft jerks like crazy. The errors it jas are coming from the 2 sensors of this valve comand unit part...do you think your process will help in my case?
At time 9:32 in the video, when installing the 2nd of 4 steel check balls on the right, your left hand covers where you dropped in the 2nd check ball. Is it too late to ask you to send a pic of where exactly the you installed the 2nd steel check ball?
If you look at that section of the valvebody, there are 4 pockets that look the same. The 2nd checkball goes just below the first and slightly to the left(looking at the video).
Hi Garry! I have some questions regarding valvebody if you dont mind. I have 2006 mercedes CLS55 amg. I know the amg 722.6 valvebodies are different from other 722.6. I got a rebuilt transmission installed not too long ago, but experiencing a weird quick upshift at lower rpm at light throttle sometimes. All the other other times it drives normal. When i spoke with the owner, he said the 722.6 valvebodies are all the same. But i was told by some amg forum members that there are different casting numbered 722.6 valvebodies. Some of these tech told me that you have to use "amg" 722.6 with "0106" casting units only. Im guessing that the rebuilder might of put a different valvebody so thats why im experiencing a weird quick upshift of some sort, but not sure. At first when i installed this rebuilt transmission that i received from this transmission shop. In the beginning my transmission had a lag from shifting from park to drive or reverse. There was some delay from that. Also, ive experienced some major slipping. I ended up taking my car to the shop where i received the rebuilt trans. He said the transmission valvebody was not communicating with my tcu so thats why i was experiencing the issues. After i picked up my car from his shop, the transmission seemed to be shifting okay. Not sure what he exactly did. Does this sound right? This really makes me believe that maybe the valvebody might be different because the weird delay when i first tested the car out after the install of the trans. Please help!
Very possible valvebody problem, also this transmission uses different pressure solenoids than the normal 722.6, If the wrong solenoids are used will cause shifting issues
@@GaryFerraro Hi, thank you for the reply back. So the other parts of the trans is amg, but the valvebody and solenoids could be different so thats why it was not communicating in the beginning? There was long delay in going to reverse and major slipping. After i took it back to the shop he had my car for like few hours or so. When i asked him what he did, he said he had to do some programming which i thought was very strange.
@@boyb72 Just wondering if the wrong pressure solenoids were installed, and then they dropped the valvebody and installed the correct ones, Programming sounds strange to me too
They sometimes drill slightly larger holes to get oil to the clutch packs a little quicker if there is a flared shift, sometimes you can do this for a firmer shift. Please keep in mind, bigger is not always better
Gary...great videos! Question for you...I have a vibration when engaging the transmission into gear from park or neutral. It is only really there until the transmission warms up sufficiently and then goes away, but it is quite pronounced, especially in the winter months. Would this valvebody overhaul potentially fix this problem?
Yeah...I have the tool and it is within the hot range on the dipstick after warming the car up around town. A couple things to note...The fluid was changed 30,000 miles ago. It is not the MB OEM fluid, but Valvoline max ATF fluid.(not sure if it could be as simple as fluid type) The conductor plate and filter were changed at the same time as well as a 722.6 valve body kit from Transgo which replaced a problematic spring and a few others. I don't have a lot of money to throw at it blindly and my local transmission guy says the transmission should be rebuilt to restore pressure, so any expert advise ...best educated guesses you have are much appreciated.
ok, this is engagement only or on pullaway, are the any engine codes or a check engine light on? On this trans, there is nothing common to foward and reverse, the B2 clutch is on in foward and i believe the K3 in reverse. So this feels like a chatter on engagement?
Great video! Have a question, my son has an 05 Dodge Magnum R/T with the NAG-1. His problem is that his car will not go into gear and when putting it in Park you hear something accuateing in the transmission, but will not go into Park. The car has to be turned off to go into park. Could this be a matter of the valve body and solenoids needing to be cleaned? Any suggestions appreciated.
+MoparRob1 Hello, Question, When you say that the car5 has to be turned off to go into park, does it stop at reverse, then when its off goes into park? Question, do you have a good scan tool, like snap-on?
+Gary Ferraro . It doesn't stop at reverse. When he tries to put it back in Park you here something trying to engage in the transmission. He lets off the gear shift and the noise stops. Turn the car off and is able to then put it in Park. When on, doesn't even go into limp mode. As for a scan tool, one said speed sensor. Have not taken it to dealer yet for scan. We did change the conductor plate with no changes.
Hi Gary thanks for the video awesome. I need to get this done. What kit do I need to overhaul the valve body. Looked on eBay but I'm a bit confused. Can you help thank you
Did conductor plate already tyranny still doesn't shift. I was told it is the valve body. I've seen some videos were they changed some springs on the side of the valve I guess I need to change theses to get the tyranny to shift again. And advice
@@GaryFerraro mechanic cleared them he told me I need a new valve body. $800 I'm looking to see if I can rebuild it with a kit but I don't know what to buy.
where can I get the shift solenoid O-rings, thanks great vid, also I found on the conductor plate between pins 13 and 9 there is about 9 ohms resistance, on the schematic there should be no connection between the two, I believe, this is with valve body out and 1,2--4,5 solenoid installed with 3-4 solenoid also installed .. is this reading correct? thank you
Pin 13 is the 1-2/4-5 solenoid and pin 9 is 3-4 solenoid, if you want to check ohms check through pin 6, this is voltage supply, but i would think there shouldn't be a reading there
thanks gary 300c back on the road, shifts great, still the oddity of the pins 13 and 9, but went ahead with your help , and took valve body apart gave a good cleaning, refilled atf4 from mopar, got the fluid levels adjusted and cleared p0753 code, ran car through relearning procedure as per Chrysler documents nand everything is great, thanks again,, joe
Hello Gary very good movie ! So I ask you some help about my trany trouble. I have got Jeep G.Cherokee 2.7 crd with this automatic gear box, and all of its troubles. I fix the electronic plate and the wires transfer box. All now is fine, it had no defaut code of anything, but sometimes i got a "clong" when schifting. from 2 to 3(not sure abaout the level i have to check). And when i put on drive, not each times but often i've got a clong if i don't still my feet on brake pedal. Thanks for your answer, and good job, you did. (Sorry for my English I'm from France.)
+14th Georges Street Hello, Greetings from New York. I would get that fluid level checked , if it doesnt have a dipstick, then you may have to get the tool(a dipstick) to check the fluid. Are there any codes present? Was it doing this before?
+Gary Ferraro Thanks gary for your quickly answer. I just erase every code and I get no new codes. But since I get the car if i dont still my feet on brake when i go to drive position i get a thing like a kick and it's angaging brutaly. I've got gauge from mercedes but nothing to check if it hot enough. When i check level i drive 30kms before that i be sure it's hot and level is OK. Do you think brake pedal must be press before go on "D" ? If don't do that sometimes it's smooth and others kicking. I never knew the car working fine since i get it.
As a safety feature, you would have to step on the brake to go to drive, if you have a scanner, you may want to scan other modules, do you have eletronic gear shift module? If your getting a kick on engagement sounds like high pressure, hows Reverse?
+Gary Ferraro Here is code i had before i erase them from ecu and tcm : Reading gearbox faults: P240D P2311 CAN communication with the engine system is faulty P2312 One or more messages from the engine control unit are not available on the CAN bus P2315 CAN communication with instrument cluster not plausible P2402 The front right wheel speed of the traction system is implausible P2222 Starter locking contact or Transmission oil temperature sensor signal improbable From ECU : P 703 p340 But I have ever change the stop pedal switch. For now no codes and no kicking today. It's no easy to say when troubles arrive but i thinks it more often when it's cold and it's kick from 1 to 2 or 2 to 3. And sometimes when i don't press brake pedal before going to drive. I try a couple minutes before and everythings allright...
Gary I was able to follow your procedure and notice that the 2 pressure solenoids screens are not present in my 722.6 from 1996 E320 should they be are they mandatory?
Hi Gary, about how much does your shop charge to fit the Sonnax overlap sleeves + TCC Damper Valve to the 722.6 valve body? I have the parts (+ fluid, + new electrical connector), and I feel fairly confident installing myself but if the price isn't too bad, I would definitely prefer a professional such as yourself to perform this service. Also, is it necessary to replace the conductor plate if I throw no transmission codes and am not in limp mode? My main concerns are occasional harsh lockup/shifts when cold or driving slowly in heavy traffic, and a delay/lurch when the trans is placed into D on the first startup. Thanks!
@@GaryFerraro Not very far, I'm in Brooklyn approximately 40 mins - 1 hr away depending on traffic. I'm basically trying to gauge pricing to decide if it's worth it both as preventative maintenance and improvement of shift quality. For reference, I have a 2006 MB C350. Thanks!
@@sicilianstyle4517 If you can make arrangements to drop off the car for a day or so, i can check it out. Haven't really seen many problems with the overlap valves in the valvebody
Hello Sir Gary,I know this has been old thread and already asked you a question a year ago but still havent fix aand look at my car. just want to ask. If the 4matic drivetrain on these car model that If the front differential completely fails, does it makes the car immobile? My car C320 4matic front drive shaft spins fast when on drive and on jackstand but no movement on front wheels. I observed when idling and gear on drive rear wheel and rear drive shaft spins but when engine rev it stop but only front drive shaft spins past with no front wheel movement. When on the ground front drive shaft just spins but only move the car several inches. Thus the 4matic system transfer all the torque to less resistance that is the broken front differntial completely making the car immobile? I have inspected coupling on front drive shaft and is good and probably have internal problem. I can hear howling sound when rev in drive and a failed bearing sound too. Thanks. Hope any expert can shed light on my question. Thank you.
George cuadera The part that bolts to the transmission output shaft could be stripped. That part connects the output and input shaft of the transfer case. I have a video on this. Called 722.6. Quick tip.
Hi Gary, thanks for the video! I have a couple questions. 1. Is there any benefit to installing a shift kit in these transmissions? Judging by the lack of more than one rebuild video, I suspect these transmissions are pretty solid overall. I have an '03 C32 AMG (115k miles) with this same trans. I noticed 1-2 is probably the "longest" shift of them all. 2. Is there anything you can recommend?
I never used a shift kit in these units. Was anything done to this trans? any codes? was the fluid level checked? so it feels like it's holding first gear? or does it slip through 2nd?
@@GaryFerraro Nothing that I know of was done to the transmission. I've only had the car since January. I have not checked the fluid level or condition, thought it is on my list to drop the pan and replace the filter. I'm curious what else I should do at that time. As for my question about the 1-2 shift feeling longer than the others... There isn't slippage or flaring at all with any gear change. It's just the 1-2 shift takes a little longer than the other shift. I'd estimate all the shifts but 1-2 complete in 200-300 millisec, and 1-2 takes 400-600 millisec. My assumption is lots of abuse over the years has contributed to extra wear and tear on whatever governs the shift from first to second. Aside from dropping the entire unit for a rebuild and inspection, are there components in the valve body that could be replaced that would help?
@@GaryFerraro I'll rephrase my question. When I drop the pan to change my filter, would it be worth it to remove the valve body and service it? Assuming the transmission was operating normally without any faults.
@@jacobkane3935 I never used a shift kit in one of these transmissions, never really had many valvebody problems either, just really conductor plates which are attached to the valvebody. If operating ok, no need to drop the valvebody
Hi. I ordered the sonnax kit for the overlap valves, i removed the old ones and installed the new ones. They fit in pretty hard and one of them was very hard to fit inside. I am 100% sure i put them in the right place. Now the transmission is not "bumping" anymore but it won't shift right. Could you help me with info about the overlap valves? Is it ok to be hard to put them inside ( i can move them only with a screwdriver and they do not move freely). How can i make them move freely(if this is the problem). Thank you
When you say hard to put in, the overlap valves are in a sleeve, was the sleeve hard to put in or the valve itself? What kind of car are you working on?
I have a 2006 grand Cherokee. Occasionally it gets stuck in 3rd gear, turn the vehicle off and back on and it will go back to normal. I have a cheap scanner it throws a P0700 and P0730. I have already replaced the conductor plate and plug. Would cleaning the valve body like this possibly solve my issue?
+Gary Ferraro it drives great when it's not stuck, no slipping, although the it sometimes hesitates when going from reverse to drive. After I clear the code as long I'm taking it easy it's fine but if I try to say pass someone on the highway it seems to induce it.
+Gary Ferraro I can't say for sure if it's full of fluid bc it doesn't have a dipstick. I took about 4 quarts out when I replaced the board. Didn't train the tourque converter or anything, maybe it was already low. I just purchased the truck, the fluid did smell burnt. I'll have to get the tool to check the level and get back to you in a day or two to confirm the level, thanks for responding!
Hi Gary, my car is a 2003 E320 , jerks at slow speeds, replaced the conductor plate, new oil new filter,new plug and did not get fixed, some people said is the converter, I went ahead and changed the transmission with the converter, only 60,000 miles on that transmision , an still have the same problem no codes, do you think it could be the torkconverter control solenoid?
+Jose P Hello, So if i understand this correctly, after the first attempt with conductor plate, you changed the trans and conveter same problem, so a different trans and converter(used in assuming) and same problem, 2 transmissions and converters,same problem? correct? Does the jerking go away when hot? were there ever any codes? Gary
Hi Garry im having problems with my 7722.6 with a really bad flare from 3-4 I removed valve body and cleaned it after watching this video i also fitted a new conductor plate and seal sealing sleeve as well as filter and oil. It ran perfectly for around 50 mls but now the flare is back, its driving me mad any thoughts on my next move? Cheers
+The huntsman Usually when you have a flared shift, the F1 andF2 sprags are at fault, the sprags are the bridges to the shifts, any gear monitoring codes?
+Gary Ferraro thanks for the speedy reply my codes off my snap on modis are 110 n2 to n3 caparison implausible and 147 gear implausible or trans slipping. I really thought i cracked it as it really was running great, its fine cold but soon as its up to temp it starts flairing. Looking like i may have to take it out and have a look
+Gary Ferraro yes i have a dipstick and will check it again tomorrow i fitted a brand new conducter plate when the valve body was out, when I originally dropped the valve block there was a little metal paste on the front speed sensor (closest to bell housing) il drop the valve body out again on Tuesday if there is metal paste on it again il pull the complete trans out to have a look and check the sprags. Its just wierd how it was working fine now playing up again. I really dont want to take it to a uk transmission specialist as they are only interested in selling me a recon unit and with the age of it its not worth the £1500 cost.
This flares all the time? A bad conductor plate will make it shift erratic and not flare. The sprags transition the shifts. They updated the sprags from 16 to 20 elements, but the elements wear out and the trans will flare, really cant tell by looking at it,unless it falls apart.
hi, thanks for the great video. I am struggling with an issue on 722.6 Mercedes W204 2008. mileage of the car is 100k km. condition of transmission oil was good without excessive debris. transmission jerks around 1500rpm when accelerating gently, before shifting from 1-2. This doesn't happen if the gas pedal pushed hard. the problem felt when the torque converter PWM signal is applied to the solenoid. disabling the torque converter solenoid will disappear the problem. searching about the TCC circuit on 722.6, I realized there is a damper valve for TCC on late models. So I just replaced the valve body(without control plate and solenoids) with a used one, but the problem exists. Reseting adaptation of torque converter and learning it again does not solve the problem. There is no fault code on TCU. any idea?
Do you have a scan tool that shows live data to confirm lock-up is being commanded on? usually it can come on after a shift into 2nd. So does this happen before the 1-2 shift or on the 1-2 shift(when transitioning from first to second)?
Hello Gary, I just subscribed from your feeds. I have a 2003 c320 that has the same transmission in the video. 2 weeks ago it just crap out. I can put in drive and reverse it moves but barely like kind of slipping. I have changed the filter and conductor plate and connector but still the same. There is a humming noise when you put on drive and reverse. Could it be the valve body? Is the solenoid on these have common failures? I can hear grinding too when the shifter is in drive and I put it back in park. I my trans toast? It happens just 2 weeks ago when the temperature deeps below freezing. Thank you.
Hii Gary,First of all i congratulate you for the good work.i do have a 98 Mercedes Benz c280.Transmission rith 85,000 miles on it shifts to 1st gear and reverse only.should replace conduct plate only or its also good to do the valve body overhaul?check engine code is P0915.
+Mathew Rutto Matt, robably mean is P0715(input speed sensor), First,if you clear the code the car will most likely shift until it sees a problem again. If in fact the code is P0715, the conductor plate is most likely bad, check the fluid level(you may need a special"tool" which is a dipstick), also make sure the trans oil did not work its way up the wires and into the tcm, If all looks good replace the conductor plate. When i have P0715, most of the time it is the conductor plate. Gary
Yes Gary i mean 0715.Diagnostic tool read Turbine/input shaft speed sensor.i ordered a new transmission dipstick and i will check the ATF level as i narrow down the problems.Thanks once again for you response.I already checked the plug and its dry.so the TCM is still good i believe.
Mathew Rutto, ok, good deal, When you get the dipstick, just feed it through the tube til it bottoms out, it may seem the dipstick isnt going down far enough, butjusttil it bottoms out, if fluid level is ok, your conductor plate is probabaly bad. let me know how it goes, im here to help. Gary
? My 2008 dodge sprinter 3.0 turbo has a issue up shifting when the temperature outside starts heating up. could this be the gas pedal sensor over heating. When its cold outside it shifts fine.
is it worth opening it and cleaning if it thumps from 3-2 gear and 2-3 (sometimes gets stuck in 1st for a few seconds then big bump)? i changed the oil + connector plug and opened the valve body to check the springs (all seemed to be ok), i didn't clean the "paths" in the valvebody
sprags seemed to be ok, with minimal wear. I could observe some lines and small bumps on the overlapping valves, i cleaned them with a 3000 sand paper and it worked much better (but only for 30-40 minutes of driving)
The K2 clutch comes on in 3rd, all look ok with that(k2 clutch has the input shaft) I would also change out those sprags, they wear and have a high failure rate.
Hi, can you tell me where i can get the o ring kit for the solenoids? Would you have a part number or where to buy them? Im doing the exact valve body as we speak. Thanks Peter
Its very hard just to find the sub kit wih the solenoid o-rings, you may have to buy an overhaul kit to get them, you could try to google it or i buy my parts from transtar, website is www.transtar1.com thanks for watching. Gary
Hi Gary , great video . I have 2006 dodge charger with a w5a580 nag 1 transmission. it was going in to limp mode , gave me codes p2784,p0734 p0700, I change the filter and oil , ran great no problems local driving but when I went to the next town 20 miles it started to whine and went to limp mode again. had it towed let it rest overnight and had it warm up next day work great no problem's few miles no codes .I am afraid to go a 20 mile trip any help would be awesome
Joe, The P2784 i believe is a speed sensor code, the speed sensors are located on the conductor plate which is attached to the valvebody. With this code present i would change the conductor plate. The P0734 is a gear ratio error code, which can be present if there are speed sensor codes. Gary If it ever goes into failsafe mode while your driving(wont shift) just pull off to the side and shut off the car for a few minutes, this will erase the memory of the computer and the car will shift again until sees the problem.
Thanks Gary i replaced the conductor plate and my car is running great for two weeks now . thank you for your video and thanks for helping me out your the greatest
I turkey Istanbul from you I have a tool that will be a question of protons brand, model 1998 Mitsubishi vehicle with the engine automatic transmission's my problem means I'm running but not moving is doing a very slow start automatic transmission I made new, but the car cıktı solenoid problem spot is not coming up, how do we solve, you must help me
Gary as I said , the problem do not go away if I turn it of after jerking, but one thin I just connected the scanner special for Mercedes Benz and it says " transmission control (vgs) Control unit ) is deffective, what do that means , does it means that the valvebody is bad?
i know this is an old thread, but with the problem i have its worth trying for an answer, my car is a 2003 c220 cdi auto with 126k on the clock, the problem with the gearbox is this, when the car is cold it flies up the gears, as soon as the temp hits 50 boom no drive at all, so far i have changed the gear selector, changed oil and filter, changed the plug with the 7m nut, checked the ecu under the passenger carpet, and no joy, the drive comes back into 2nd gear for a very short while, 3/4mile, then boom, gone again, switch it off for a few minutes and off you go for another quarter mile in 2nd, the atf level in gearbox is almost at the top off the correct dipstick,i also tried it with the atf at just above minimum, ive ordered the plate for inside the gearbox, along with a new filter gasket and the wiring plug, with the 7m nut, if im barking up the wrong tree please please please put me out off my misery, in advance with hope and prayer thankyou.
Hello, To me it sounds like a classic clogged filter. I know you changed it, but the fact that you shut off the car for a few and start it back up and it goes
Yes, with a clogged screen, when the car gets hot, it will stop moving, cold it will move. When the scree is clogged it cuts off line pressure and the car wont move. Question when you change the screen is it ok for a day or so?
OK, i would say your screen is clogging up, something is coming apart in the trans, if the trans works ok i would think your converter clutch is coming apart clogging the screen
Gary, i have 722.6, it shifts fine but has terrible vibration/ shudder in low rpms. I have changed the conductor plate and filter, not much difference. I was thinking of sticking in a rebuilt valve body. Would this help?
+Gary Ferraro I bought the car with 85k on it, currently no codes but before I had the plate changed there were some codes. The previous owner spent 2k trying to fix the trans and was left with being told to just replace it, so he sold it on to me.
There are many videos of working on the 722.6 but none have given me the confidence yours has due to the inclusion of every step without glossing over the fine detail. I have also never seen anyone keep as clean as you did in a long sleeved shirt so I'm doubly impressed.
Thank you, Any questions just let me know
Thank you so much for taking the time to help people. Your a good man Gary.
Thanks for watching, please subscribe
Thank you Gary for your great video. Very informative, this is the second transmission I have fixed thanks to you. I did my BMW 750li and the one on the Mercedes Benz e320. Thank you to the master
Wow, thats great, thanks for sharing
You are a life saver. this video helped me to clean my valve body without the worry of forgetting where things go.
Awesome, thats what i like to hear. Gary
Gary Ferraro hello Gary I have a issue I wanted to ask you so I purchased a low mile nag1 for a 2005 Chrysler 300 and my auto stick shifter when I go to manual mode it always go straight into 4th gear no matter what speed or when I'm parked it doesn't go down to 1st at all I have to keep tapping it to get into the lower gears wondering what is causing this to happen
I have a -02 mercedes e500 and I was wondering about this also but on our cars you can only select the highest gear with stick. So if you put it to 4 it'll use 1-4 gears etc.
Many thanks for this Gary, very detailed and helpful video. I was searching for the torque spec for the bolts on the valvebody itself, you said 17 inch pounds which equates to about 2 nm, thanks for this! :)
70 inch pounds he said, about 8NM
Thanks for this Gary, you made it look so easy & very professional. Thanks from the UK. Keith
Thanks so much for the video very helpful really appreciate the detail of the position of the check balls, I misplaced 2 in one valve body and thanks to your video I found out the correct place, once again thank you
Bro, your awesome video and the way that you explain procedures gave me confidence and inspired me to go a step further than the Conductor Plate that I was about to install. I ordered a Sonnax "Overlap Control Valve Sleeve" Kit to install while I have the Valve Body out. I say this with all admiration and respect, I can't believe how fast, and that you actually did, reply to my questions, which I really needed the answers to! You are the best and I had already subscribed before you replied.
Thanks, good call on the overlap sleeves, they do tend to wear out
So did it start shifting after you clean it
@@GaryFerraro My s500 stopped shifting out of neutral. It went very quickly. It slipped in and out of gear a few times during the last drive, and then limped mode home in 3rd. I reset comp and modules, and it acts like it just doesnt engage clutch plates/solenoids. I have only neutral and reverse. The cluth plates between early gears is suspect, of the conductor plate/sol. I cleaned water our of the rear sam a year ago. I suspect more corrosion, but didn't want to spin my wheels if the rear sam traction control can't affect this.
The shift module is also suspect, since my tranny only shifts between neutral and park with the brake pedal- (disengaged)....it's backwards. I was never stuck in park like most, and it has been this way for several years. I have to release the brake to put it in park. switching around break pedal wires did not reverse it.
The + - shifting does nothing now I noticed. Please help.
@@GaryFerraro this may help My; only message I get is
: "no: pre-safety" message. Is pre-safety a rear Sam function??
@@d-rockpain4250 what codes do you have in the trans
Hi! I would like to thank you very much for this video ! Helped me out when i was cleaning my valvebody and some of the check balls went out and i didn’t know where they go...
Great, glad i could help. Thanks for watching, Please subscribe
I know right? Great video!
all of these videos are awedome, all the way from Los Angeles thanks Gary, your a good guy, keep up the great work
Thanks, Greetings from New York
Thank you Gary for making this video. Very helpful!
Thanks for watching
Good and clean job as ever,thank you Sir and look,just repair now a 722.6 Merc automatic gearbox
I want to say thank you so much from morocco
Extraordinario y muy comprensible video. Gracias al Maestro Gary.
Good job Gary....I'v got a Hyundai elantra with automatic transmission that jerks hard 'only' from 2nd to 3rd after a cold start or when the transmission is cold.....after about 15 minutes of driving, the 2nd-3rd harsh shifts resolves and the transmission shifts smoothly......I have no engine code, but have replaced my atf twice, speed sensors and tps sensor but the problem remains.......Could it be due to a dirty valve body?
how did you check the sleeve valves on the side of the valve body or did i mis that ? very nice vid!!
mean the overlap sleeves?
@@GaryFerraro dont now the exact name but behind the stainless plates on the side some with springs
Hi! I did not find the O-rings. From where did you get????
Thank's
Gary, very good informative video. I have a problem since 2008 when I bought the car. It is a 2001 E320, 185K now. Fluid changes are at 70K, 100K, 130K and 155K. My problem is a bit weird, when I accelerate decisively it shifts like a butter, say like in a stop n go traffic somebody brakes in front of me and if I hesitate or when I’m accelerating decisively but a light turns to yellow or I notice the speed limit is low and I ease off from the pedal, I believe it is 2nd and 3rd car also hesitates, it just does not roll smoothly. If this happens during the acceleration, from 2 to 3 car feels like as if something pulling from the back for a second then with a slight boom feeling it slams to next gear and from there it is fine. Or during the slow down which happens everyday at the same spot in front of my office, there is stop sign ahead and when I ease of from the gas it lowers the gear very noticeable, not that smooth. All of this stuff happens 15-30 mile range which I assume 2nd and 3rd gear range again. I’m suspecting either solenoids or somewhere in the valve body but could not narrow it down. Like I said this is going on since I got the car in 2008 with 50K miles. I apologize if it’s too long, just wanted to get a second opinion before I tackle with the job. Have a good evening.
I have a plan to change the conductor plate of my Ssanyong New Rexton 722.6 transmission. This video will be very helpful. Many Thanks!
Your Welcome, never heard of that kind of car. Where are you located? Greetings from New York.
Just looked it up, very nice.
Suwon city, South Korea! Ssangyong is the name of Car manufactuer in South Korea. The SUV model 'New Rexton' has MB 722.6 5 stage transmission and 2.7 liter CRDI Diesel Engine. Thanks~
Wow cool, Greetings from New York.
Gary, thank you for the interest on helping me, I have been driving this car for about 35000 miles yerking when am driving slow all the time , a weeek ago I replaced the trainy and the converter Oil filter, I was thinking on the Torkconverter control solenoid but the two transmissions?
+Jose P To have 2 transmissions doing the same thing is unlikely.
yes on the schematic I have that is what I thought,(alldata). so if the O-rings are worn could that be an issue? also this is the second conductor plate I installed with this reading. so I am on second plate and changed out 1,2-4,5 solenoid. , so on hunt for O-rings and any advice you may have, thanks so much for your fast response, take care,, great channel. I new I should have gotten into transmission repair. joe
You started a little oily, but finished nice and clean in all aspects. Very informative.
Thanx - Well done :)
Thank you
Outstanding skill set. Thank you!
Thanks for watching, please subscribe
Good video and thanks for posting it. I like your idea with the aerosol can modification! I was a little surprised at the title of being an "overhaul" except for a couple new O rings and a cleaning of some(not all) of the internal and external components that is all that I saw was done. I have a hard time believing that a simple removal, cleaning and reassembly would take care of material deficiencies in the internal parts. Perhaps you did the overlap sleeves and other Sonnax kit installations in this valve body off video? When I did the work on mine I wish now that I would have separated the two halves and inspected, cleaned filter screens, replaced the check balls and replaced that other valve. I did however make sure all the passage ways that go to the internal parts were clean. I also wish I would have replaced the solenoids and installed the Sonnax TCC Damper Valve and Sleeve kit: 68942-23K. Again, thanks for the video!
Very good video. Two questions: 1) How does anyone let their ATF get SO dark/dirty/burnt that it looks like well used engine oil?
2) When you're torqueing the v. body bolts to 70 in lbs with a real torque indicating torque wrench, if you are not grasping the torque wrench by its handle, are you not skewing the accuracy of the torque wrench?
These 722.6 are in sprinters, they drive them til they stop moving. Yes you are correct about the torque wrench, there actually is a video out there on that issue
What is the blue compound you are using on the solenoids?
Thats called Trans Gel, once the trans heats up, the grease melts
Hello Gary, thanks for all the great videos. I was wondering what is the brand of parts washer do you have? The one with the screen in the middle.
That is called System One, The company went out but independent people still service the machine
Stripped my trans today and it all looks good cant find and real reason i had slip from 3-4 when hot as well as it locking out and jumping into neutral every now and again its driving me mad, sprags are perfect clutches have plenty of wear left by the looks of it and all the bearings intact. Just the b3 piston to remove and check now. Your video has been life saver iv lost count how many times iv watched it so stripping down my trans was easy. If you have any ideas on what else i can check pls let me know cheers again
+The huntsman Even though the sprags may look good, they probably are not, the sprags are the bridges to the shifts, i would change the F1 and F2 sprags, the f2 is the bridge to the 3-4 shift.
+Gary Ferraro ok il fit 2 sprags new clutches and seals and hope and pray. Thanks again gary
+The huntsman I personally think the sprags are the issue
+Gary Ferraro ok as iv never done a trans like this and because they felt so tight and new i jumped to conclusions, i hope you enjoyed Barbados and going back to work hasnt been to hard !! Cheers again
+The huntsman Thanks, we missed the blizzard, 30 inches of snow, i liked getting back to work, shop is crazy packed, very busy.
Hello. My gearbox gives a jerk at 1600-1800 rpm. A mechanic cleaned the block, it worked fine for 2.3 days, now it started doing it again. Did he get dirty again? Or is it another problem?
Hi Gary, I used your video to put in 2 Sonnax kits, & the Transgo kit.
I just found 1 of the Pressure Solenoid Strainers on my garage floor :(
I guess I need another one to make sure that when I pull the valve body again to put the 1 back in I will have both.
How important are these?
Thanks, Dave
Hello Gary i have a 722.6 trans and it doesn’t engage when i put it in drive or reverence and it gave a P0700. What are your thoughts and where you think i should start looking
Hello, what should be replaced while your gearbox 722.6 is taken off/on table, O rings, bearing, simering, etc please advise.
My hydraulic converter need to be send for regeneration.
Very helpful video, thanks!
If your going to take the transmission apart, the 2 sprags called F1 and F2 these sprags is a common failure. I would put a new conductor plate, new filter and pan gasket, also while apart check the clutch disc's for wear.
Thank you for quick answer, just like to mention the transmission is on w212 2011year, 110K miles, torque converter gone and shall I do what you advise above or is something extra, I would like to do the whole thing in one piece. Thank you.
Hi Gary, may I ask you a question? I experienced harsh shifting with my 722.6 and the exact description would be as follows: Summer mode - 1 - 2 harsh all day long; 2-1 huck at each stop... Winter mode: ONLY first shift 2-3 (does not go to 1 in winter mode) is harsh and after that all day long the car is as smooth as butter. I was almost sure there must be some dirt and I decided to open-up the valve body, clean and also install Sonnax sleeves 1-2; 4-5 and 2-3. I did everything according to the book (service manual) and I watched all available videos on the planet (not all, all)... I am very (extremely) cautious and I believe I did the job right. After installing and filling up the precise amount of liquid I disposed, the car will not shift what so ever... Not even in manual. I checked and re-checked the electrical socket and it's all fine. Could you please point me to something (SOMETHING) which I might have missed. My AUTEL MAXI DAS computer with transmission abilities found no error (it found recently the speed sensor on the conductor plate and I replaced it), but now it's not telling me anything. Is there a "filling-up" procedure I might have missed? Also, if I would havce installed the valves back in an erratic mode, I believe I would still get some erratic behavior... I'm asking you because I can tell if I see someone who knows his thing... :) Any answer will be highly appreciated. Also my car is "on hold"...
Is this stuck in first gear or in a failsafe mode?
It's not stuck at all. It's like it is not getting any command from the
shifter. Not even in manual... I went thru all gears and there is ZERO
reaction. I would say that if I inverted some valve or any other part, I
would give some sign, but it's completely dead
ok, does this pull off slow from a dead stop like your in a higher gear. On your scanner, look at live data to see what gear is being commanded. Do you have the "tool" to check fluid level?
I do have the tool. I opened it again and what I noticed was that the Sonnax sleeves were very stiff, also the inside of the sleeves don't accommodate very smoothly the small pistons. Since the genuine sleeves didn't show any sign of wear, I reinstalled those back on. I just finished -up and I'll get yet another fresh fluid from the store (I converted two years and 12k miles from MB to Valvoline 100% Synthetic - Mercedes approved)... So I'll garb fluid, fill it up and let you know if I'm good. Could also be that the Sonnax sleeves were a knock-of since I got them on Ebay... Thank you so much for your quick answers. Talk to you soon :)
A Dude let me know. I haven't seen any knock off sonnax products yet. They came in a sonnax bag?
Beautiful helpful video Gary! If ive found some aluminum shavings on the vb is there a possibility that some of the small shavings to go inside the vb and getting stuck there? And Do all the valves have to come out to clean the vb?
Im sure some stuff is inside the valve body, as long as the valves are free, they won't have to come out, these valve bodies are good rarely have problems with them
Thanks much for your reply! From your experience a P0730 would be related more to vb/solenoids or more like worn clutches/bearings of the assembly?
@@mihu202 P0730 is Gear ratio error, do you feel anything when you drive the car? is the trans slipping?
Gary Ferraro cant tell it’s slipping between gears but randomly after a stop when try to leave engine just rev like in N even though card is in D and if im coming suddenly on a stop while cruising the downshifting feels delayed like kicks in the back.If turn engine off than on car’s back to normal like nothing happened shifts smooth nothing erratic
Thanks for the video can I also used the brakeleen cleaner on the solenoids or can I use electric cleaner and what is the "blue" stuff that you are putting on the solenoid before pushing them in?
Brake kleen is fine, The grease is called Transgel, a special grease that melts when the trans heats up
Great work Gary, Where do you get these solenoid o-rings from?
My transmission slipped before.
How often do you replace torque converter clutch damper valve?
Also a pressure regulator, lube regulator and overlap sleeves? (There is Transgo shift kit for 722.6 I want to pit in, you think this will help? (Transgo 722.6A shift kit)
Did you use water to clean the valve body? Did you take all the valves out first before you clean? Thanks for the video!
No, i use mineral spirits to clean the valvebody, i wouldnt use water, brake kleen would be ok also
Thanks for the quick response. Do you use mineral spirits to clean all the bearings and shafts as well?
Yes, you can. I have a big parts washer in the shop with a special soap that is used, i do not run valvebodies in the machine though
Great video, Thanks for sharing your knowledge.....
Thanks for watching
oh yeah, you have great stuff on your channel...respect !
Thank you
I was watching the video you did on 99 E 320 delay inshift.while you were checking on shift module using the chart and voltmeter.i did the same on my car though mine is 98 C280 and some readings where off.
+Mathew Rutto what is the car doing? Sorry for the late reply
Looking for the seals for the solenoids. Do you sell a kit?
Hello Gary and thank you for this tutorial. I have a w220 3.2 cdi 2004 , and starting from last week it gave me trouble. The only code i get is P2502 The gear is implausible or the transmission is slipping. The symptoms are hard vibrations when almost is about to shift or around 1200 - 1300 rpm, and sometimes when i stay more in traffic doesn't want to move anymore. If i turn the engine off then on, starts to move but the vibrations are still there. Sometimes harder sometimes not so hard but i can feel them. I changed the oil first thing and when i removed the oil pan was a lot of golden particles on the bottom. I put 7 liters of low quality oil. driven for 10 min, all the gears , very easy then changed the oil again with Febi Bilstein 236.14 according to MB document : 5-speed automatic transmission 722.6 Only use the transmission oils outlined in specification for operating fluids sheet 236.14. See WIS document: BB.00.40-p-0236-14a.
Can u gave me your opinion please ?
Thank you very much
Cristian.
LE: I didn't knew exactly the quantity of the oil because i didn't have an dipstick. I estimate that i took out about 6 liters and i added same quantity.
Hello, When you did the service, did you change the filter? Do you feel this on the 1-2 shift? Since you did the oil change how is it? Thanks for watching. Gary
HI. I changed the filter. No, vibrations i think on 1 2 shift. Only 2 3 or 3 4.
ok, so the vibration is gone, but still not shifting correctly? the 1-2 shift is the problem, others are ok?
+Gary Ferraro . No! The vibrations are still there.
+Gary Ferraro Sorry about confusing you. The vibrations are still there. If i push the throttle hard, no bump and no vibration. Only if i drive normally.
Does it cause any problem if you don’t pour any transmission oil into the lines of the valve body? You just cleaned it and put all together. Second question what blue grease are did you use to protect the seals ?
It will not cause any issue, i usually do not put any oil. The blue Grease is call Transgel, special for transmissions, as soon as the grease heats up it melts
hello gary
I have a wrangler jk year 2013 NAG1.
For 6 months, at a cold start, I have had a kickdown type effect before the passage of the 2nd and before the passage of the 3rd. I also notice it in sequential mode.
If I accelerate hard, the phenomenon decreases otherwise, 15 minutes later, with the engine hot, everything seems imperceptible.
If I do 4 * 4 first on steep slopes, kickdown type effect from time to time.
In assisting the descent, sometimes the car releases the assistance for a few seconds and the engine brakes disappear.
Then appeared a feeling of under revs at low speed or in traffic jams. In fact after observation, I have significant losses of engine speed which make the car vibrate, the same in sequential. Likewise, when I brake at low speed, the car vibrates a bit I notice I'm in 3rd, if I switch to 2 sequentially and it stops.
This week, in the mountains, these worries are almost non-existent, the same if I drive fast, everything is fine.
I feel these low revs and these vibrations especially in 3rd before the 2nd engages.
I just changed the TCM, and still the same.
The oil change was done 10,000 km ago with mb 236.14 and not with ATF + 4 MOPAR.
I am told that the hydraulic block must be changed ???
thank you for your attention
No hydraulic block but has the fluid level been checked? any codes present for the trans?
@@GaryFerraro Hello Garry and thank you for your interest in my problem.
the transmission oil change was carried out 6 months ago, at the onset of symptoms and it did not improve anything.
The level has been checked by 2 different mechanics and is correct.
Jeep dealer did not find any error message ... unfortunately :(
@@laurentzouibzouib3509 ok, when you say kickdown effect, does the rpm shoot up before it goes into 2nd?
@@GaryFerraro I feel it just before the passage of the second gear because it also occurs in sequential mode in 1st and also before the passage of the third because I feel it in the second in sequential. The phenomenon then seems to disappear or is less noticeable after 20 minutes of driving. The most annoying in my problem is the significant loss of power which occurs without explanation and which causes an under revving of the engine which makes my car tremble especially in 3rd at low speed in town, just after a slight acceleration to regain speed.
There is also a bad feeling of driving and a slight tremor when braking when I am not going fast which is also very unpleasant ... when this happens the car is almost always in 3rd, I then shift to 2nd gear sequentially and the tremor when braking disappears immediately. On the other hand, as I told you,
if I accelerate strongly and drive fast or if I drive in the mountains, the transmission seems to be working almost normally and I find a great jeep.
@@GaryFerraro Hello Gary,
I don't know if you read my answer to your question.
thank you in advance for your help
So you just cleaned the bottom on the valve body with all the valves still installed???
My real question is im working on a 722.6 now that started whining and slipping when warm. What do i need to check for while i have valve body out???
If the trans started whining and slipping, sounds like the filter was clogging up, probably the converter clutch is coming apart clogging the filter. If the valves are free and have full movement, no need to take them out of the bore.
Gary Ferraro
Thanks
Yes there was a little crud on top of valve body. Didnt know what that meant.
Its in my video
ruclips.net/video/OM9_q1ath-4/видео.html
Ill clean valve body and replace filter and try
Thanks for the quick reply
Thank you very much. I have benefited a lot from your explanation
Thank you
At 13:19 in the video you stated that you were going to change the o-ring on the Lockup Solenoid. Where did you get the o-ring?
They came in the overhaul kit, not sure if the sub pack is sold separately
My e320 had coolant leaked into ATF and doing this job to flush and clean and replace with new conductor plate? What cleaning solution are you using to clean this up?
Hello. I have this trans in a Jeep Grand Cherokee. Often, when I select reverse the trans will bind and require extra throttle to make car move. If I select drive (not neutral) then reverse again, it's fine. Any ideas? Done 200,000Kms. No fault codes. Thanks for the video too.
Gary recently my on my clk500 has started to hold a gear if I accelerate on the freeway after I let off the pedal. It will eventually drop back down after after a few seconds or if I tap on the gas pedal again. I have 80k on it and I don't know if it's every had the transmission oil changed serviced, I bought it at 53k. I plan on doing that next week. Might that clear it up or since I'll already have it apart should I drop the valve body and overhaul it as well? Or could this also be a sign of a solenoid going bad?
Hi Garry . Where are you based . On my Viano 2.2 when I stop the car by pedal bracke at the traffic lights example the engine still push all the time the car . What do you think , should be it the converter or same thing from the gearbox?
If I keep randomly going into limp mode, but it's not very much.. Then can I just replace the cunductor plate, trans filter, wire plug, gasket and check the solenoids and problem solved? Or will I still need to go to the dealer to have the codes pulled on the tcu and reset. I plan on doing the work myself, I'm very much a diy guy. But when I was doing my research on the project, I came across a thread that said if you plan on doing the diy job yourself that the car would need to be towed not driven to the dealer to reset the tcu after. Which brought my project to a complete hault in fear of doing some type of damage. I feel like his advice was being directed towards someone who is stuck in limp mode, which is not the case with my vehicle. The reason I'm asking, is because the nearest mercedes authorized tech is a 90min drive from where I live.
Well heres the thing, the codes need to be cleared after the job is done, you do not need to have the car towed to clear the codes, you don't even need a Mercedes tech, anyone in your area with a scan tool that can pull codes to confirm a conductor plate issue? and then clear them
Hi Great video, very informative. What solvent do you use to clean the valve body and what size O rings to use on solenoids please?
I use Mineral spirits. The o-ring sizes not sure, they come in the kit from Transtec
@@GaryFerraro thanks Gary, I’m in Australia, so will look for o rings. Thanks again! Appreciate your video.
@@dazzawazza1797 Welcome, Greetings from New York
@@GaryFerraro Hi Gary, today I opened up the casing and the bloody balls and screens fell out everywhere! My stupid fault for not being careful! I watched your video over and over to see where you place them back in. Would you have a picture of where they go Gary? Sorry for being a pain!
@@dazzawazza1797 send me an e-mail,
gsferraro@yahoo.com
have to look but i should have something
Thank you very much and God bless you. I didn't know the location of the bullets.
glad i could help
I did replace the conduct plate but the problem is still there.i did clear the code with cheap diagnostic tool but did not clear. what's the way forward?Thanks Gary.
Thanks Gary, good job, nice video.
Thanks
Hi Gary, I bought a 2008 jeep commander with 3.7 engine which uses the same transmission(722.6) NAG1 | The owner told me that he changed the transmission, however after couple months my car stopped going over 30 mph and when I checked it with OBD-II scanner I got error code P0762 (Solenoid c stuck on) whenever I clean the code, it drives normally without any problem but once I go over 65 mph the car stops accelerating over 55-60 mph again right away, and if I stay at 40-45 mph it will get stuck on 30 mph again after couple days. also when the code is not cleared the trans give a whizzing sound. I took out the valve body and the fluid wasn't in a really good shape. Thanks ^_^
that code is a mechanical code, usually means internal problem. When the car heats up do you hear that whining noise? do you hear that noise in all ranges, park, rev, neutral, drive?
I hear the sound when I first start the car and about ten minutes later the sound fades away, also when I change gears the whole car get Shaking hard, but once I clear the code it starts without any problem. just to let you know my mechanic changed the gear again and I'm getting the same problem (shift solenoid c stuck on) | I have found that there's a leak of transmission fluid not sure if the pilot bushing is leaking, also the transmission filter seems to be clogged up. what I'm going to do is changing the fluid, transmission filter and the pilot bushing also I will replace the shift solenoid locations to make sure if it's solenoid problem or something else :)
Hi Gary! I changed the filter, pilot bushing, replaced the replaced solenoid c with another solenoid and added a new trans fluid but the problem wasn't resolved. However, I got a complete valve body from auto parts and replaced it with the one that was in my transmission and the problem was solved. I'm only wondering what is the problem that is causing the (shift solenoid c stuck on) not sure if it's conductor plate or if I need to overhaul the valve body, thanks.
@@Jameel_Khames Conductor plate wouldn't cause a code like that, problem was probably the valvebody, there are valves called overlap valves that like to wear out
@@GaryFerraro Hi again, the code is back again (shift solenoid c stuck on). also when I accelerate the rpms goes up smoothly but once I stop pressing the gas pedal it jumps from 3000 rpm to 1000 or 1500 and sometimes the gear will not shift at all until I turn off the car or erasing the code with OBD ii. not sure if I need to reprogram the PCM or something else is causing the problem.
Hello, are you still answering questions on this video? I followed your excellent instructions and took the valve body apart and cleaned it. My question is after assembling it the dowel pin is very loose and sticks out of the bottom of the body by about 1/8 inch. It just drops out of the body. It dropped in my hand just as I had it in place in the transmission. What did I do wrong? Thank you
Is this the dowel that the detent roller goes on?
@@GaryFerraro Thanks for answering! It is the dowel that aligns the lower and upper bodies.
@@markolsen8074 Long skinny one correct? There is only one
@@GaryFerraro It does not stay in its position, it slips right out.
@@markolsen8074 That's ok, the detent roller holds it in place
Gary, hopefully you're checking this. Of the 6 solenoids, it's obvious which two are the pressure solenoids based on shape alone, but the other 4 - the Lockup, 2/3, 1/2&4/5 and the 3/4, are those four solenoids interchangeable? I've noticed slightly different part numbers and didn't know if those might just be MB revision numbers or if there are specific ones for each of those 4 solenoids. I got an unusual condition just 24 hours after installation in that when downshifting (say 4th to 2nd), the engine revved but it didn't actually downshift. I immediately put it in neutral and coasted to a stop. I re-engaged into drive and all was fine. Won't try it again but I'm wondering if I have a misplaced solenoid or even a bad one from the kit I bought. Thanks!
The shift solenoids(3) are interchangeable the lock-up solenoid is not.
@@GaryFerraro Thank you for the quick reply! Are there part # differences between the shift solenoids and the lock up solenoid? Do you know what they are?
@@Daveykid The parts numbers between them are different because the lock-up solenoid is not the same as the shift. The solenoids rarely go bad, are you changing them?
I did change them out but I still have the originals. Was getting a hard shift from 1-2 and 2-3 only during cold operation. Like the first 3-5 blocks in colder weather. Thought perhaps a solenoid went bad so I replaced them all along with a new conductor plate, electric plug and related gaskets, washers, etc, filter, fluid. I'm thinking I might just bench test the original solenoids before putting them in to make certain they work and then just putting them back in with the new conductor plate and other hardware.
@@Daveykid Ok, you have the "tool" to make sure it's full of fluid?
Overhauled my valve body with the help of this video, and i put everything back together, filling the trans with the same amount of new fluid as i measured coming out. Now i have an issue when putting the car into gear, it goes into gear nicely then after only a second, the car comes out of gear, as if one of the clutches are depressurizing. i have no idea why this would happen. i took video footage of the disassembly and reassembly and viewed the footage several times to make sure everything went back together 100% correctly, now this happens. would you have any idea what would cause this, coming from your several years of experience? i took the valve body out to try and fix a torque converter shutter, the car shifted fine BEFORE rebuilding the valve body.....
Do you have the same problem in reverse?
Gary Ferraro yes, the car goes in reverse, but then drops out of gear after about a second. Like I said it feels as though the necessary clutches are engaged for at least a second to achieve forward OR backward motion, but then after that second it's as if the valve body depressurizes those circuts. The same exact thing happens in forward and reverse.
Im assuming you do not have the "tool" to measure fluid level
I do. Fluid level is showing at 80° when hot, engine running. and at the 80° mark (full) when cold and engine OFF.
What does it show with engine running? this fluid is checked with engine running
I have a mechanical that is going to try to clean this part and its sensors...after I explained my rpm gauge keeps having hickups (downs and and back up) with a steady throtlle pedal. And when the rpm falls temporaly down the prop shaft jerks like crazy.
The errors it jas are coming from the 2 sensors of this valve comand unit part...do you think your process will help in my case?
Paulo Melo The conductor plate is probably no good if your getting speed sensor codes
At time 9:32 in the video, when installing the 2nd of 4 steel check balls on the right, your left hand covers where you dropped in the 2nd check ball. Is it too late to ask you to send a pic of where exactly the you installed the 2nd steel check ball?
If you look at that section of the valvebody, there are 4 pockets that look the same. The 2nd checkball goes just below the first and slightly to the left(looking at the video).
Hi Garry!
I have some questions regarding valvebody if you dont mind. I have 2006 mercedes CLS55 amg. I know the amg 722.6 valvebodies are different from other 722.6. I got a rebuilt transmission installed not too long ago, but experiencing a weird quick upshift at lower rpm at light throttle sometimes. All the other other times it drives normal.
When i spoke with the owner, he said the 722.6 valvebodies are all the same. But i was told by some amg forum members that there are different casting numbered 722.6 valvebodies. Some of these tech told me that you have to use "amg" 722.6 with "0106" casting units only. Im guessing that the rebuilder might of put a different valvebody so thats why im experiencing a weird quick upshift of some sort, but not sure. At first when i installed this rebuilt transmission that i received from this transmission shop. In the beginning my transmission had a lag from shifting from park to drive or reverse. There was some delay from that. Also, ive experienced some major slipping.
I ended up taking my car to the shop where i received the rebuilt trans. He said the transmission valvebody was not communicating with my tcu so thats why i was experiencing the issues. After i picked up my car from his shop, the transmission seemed to be shifting okay. Not sure what he exactly did. Does this sound right? This really makes me believe that maybe the valvebody might be different because the weird delay when i first tested the car out after the install of the trans. Please help!
Very possible valvebody problem, also this transmission uses different pressure solenoids than the normal 722.6, If the wrong solenoids are used will cause shifting issues
@@GaryFerraro Hi, thank you for the reply back. So the other parts of the trans is amg, but the valvebody and solenoids could be different so thats why it was not communicating in the beginning? There was long delay in going to reverse and major slipping. After i took it back to the shop he had my car for like few hours or so. When i asked him what he did, he said he had to do some programming which i thought was very strange.
@@boyb72 Just wondering if the wrong pressure solenoids were installed, and then they dropped the valvebody and installed the correct ones, Programming sounds strange to me too
Hi Garry,
What the "flare " on the plate do? I saw some guys drilling 3,5-4 mm holes (enlarge) in the plate. Thanks.
They sometimes drill slightly larger holes to get oil to the clutch packs a little quicker if there is a flared shift, sometimes you can do this for a firmer shift. Please keep in mind, bigger is not always better
Gary, Are you just using water in your sink to clean the valve body or degreaser
Using a chemical called mineral spirits
Gary...great videos! Question for you...I have a vibration when engaging the transmission into gear from park or neutral. It is only really there until the transmission warms up sufficiently and then goes away, but it is quite pronounced, especially in the winter months. Would this valvebody overhaul potentially fix this problem?
The first thing i would do is check the fluid level, there is a special tool you need to do this, have you had the level checked?
Yeah...I have the tool and it is within the hot range on the dipstick after warming the car up around town. A couple things to note...The fluid was changed 30,000 miles ago. It is not the MB OEM fluid, but Valvoline max ATF fluid.(not sure if it could be as simple as fluid type) The conductor plate and filter were changed at the same time as well as a 722.6 valve body kit from Transgo which replaced a problematic spring and a few others. I don't have a lot of money to throw at it blindly and my local transmission guy says the transmission should be rebuilt to restore pressure, so any expert advise ...best educated guesses you have are much appreciated.
you have this when engaging into drive and reverse?or only drive
Reverse is just slightly vibrating. It is definitely more pronounced in drive.
ok, this is engagement only or on pullaway, are the any engine codes or a check engine light on? On this trans, there is nothing common to foward and reverse, the B2 clutch is on in foward and i believe the K3 in reverse. So this feels like a chatter on engagement?
Great video! Have a question, my son has an 05 Dodge Magnum R/T with the NAG-1. His problem is that his car will not go into gear and when putting it in Park you hear something accuateing in the transmission, but will not go into Park. The car has to be turned off to go into park. Could this be a matter of the valve body and solenoids needing to be cleaned? Any suggestions appreciated.
+MoparRob1 Hello, Question, When you say that the car5 has to be turned off to go into park, does it stop at reverse, then when its off goes into park? Question, do you have a good scan tool, like snap-on?
+Gary Ferraro . It doesn't stop at reverse. When he tries to put it back in Park you here something trying to engage in the transmission. He lets off the gear shift and the noise stops. Turn the car off and is able to then put it in Park. When on, doesn't even go into limp mode. As for a scan tool, one said speed sensor. Have not taken it to dealer yet for scan. We did change the conductor plate with no changes.
+MoparRob1 Ok, so you mean its making a ratching sound like something is turning and you have to shut the car off to stop the ratching noise.
+Gary Ferraro Basically. It sounds like it's trying to go into gear, but can't quite engage. I'll see If I can find a video of it he took.
+MoparRob1 Ok, so you put this in drive or reverse and no move?
Hi Gary thanks for the video awesome. I need to get this done. What kit do I need to overhaul the valve body. Looked on eBay but I'm a bit confused. Can you help thank you
Valvebody does not use gaskets, are you looking for valves or conductor plate or mare like soft parts(O-Rings)
Did conductor plate already tyranny still doesn't shift. I was told it is the valve body. I've seen some videos were they changed some springs on the side of the valve I guess I need to change theses to get the tyranny to shift again. And advice
Like a transgo shift kit?
@@dannylopez6858 So this won't shift out of first?
Any Codes
@@GaryFerraro mechanic cleared them he told me I need a new valve body. $800 I'm looking to see if I can rebuild it with a kit but I don't know what to buy.
where can I get the shift solenoid O-rings, thanks great vid, also I found on the conductor plate between pins 13 and 9 there is about 9 ohms resistance, on the schematic there should be no connection between the two, I believe, this is with valve body out and 1,2--4,5 solenoid installed with 3-4 solenoid also installed .. is this reading correct? thank you
Pin 13 is the 1-2/4-5 solenoid and pin 9 is 3-4 solenoid, if you want to check ohms check through pin 6, this is voltage supply, but i would think there shouldn't be a reading there
thanks gary 300c back on the road, shifts great, still the oddity of the pins 13 and 9, but went ahead with your help , and took valve body apart gave a good cleaning, refilled atf4 from mopar, got the fluid levels adjusted and cleared p0753 code, ran car through relearning procedure as per Chrysler documents nand everything is great, thanks again,, joe
Good Job! Thanks for the update
thank you gary, be well
J johnson welcome
Hello Gary very good movie !
So I ask you some help about my trany trouble. I have got Jeep G.Cherokee 2.7 crd with this automatic gear box, and all of its troubles. I fix the electronic plate and the wires transfer box. All now is fine, it had no defaut code of anything, but sometimes i got a "clong" when schifting. from 2 to 3(not sure abaout the level i have to check). And when i put on drive, not each times but often i've got a clong if i don't still my feet on brake pedal.
Thanks for your answer, and good job, you did.
(Sorry for my English I'm from France.)
+14th Georges Street Hello, Greetings from New York. I would get that fluid level checked , if it doesnt have a dipstick, then you may have to get the tool(a dipstick) to check the fluid. Are there any codes present? Was it doing this before?
+Gary Ferraro Thanks gary for your quickly answer. I just erase every code and I get no new codes. But since I get the car if i dont still my feet on brake when i go to drive position i get a thing like a kick and it's angaging brutaly. I've got gauge from mercedes but nothing to check if it hot enough. When i check level i drive 30kms before that i be sure it's hot and level is OK. Do you think brake pedal must be press before go on "D" ? If don't do that sometimes it's smooth and others kicking. I never knew the car working fine since i get it.
As a safety feature, you would have to step on the brake to go to drive, if you have a scanner, you may want to scan other modules, do you have eletronic gear shift module? If your getting a kick on engagement sounds like high pressure, hows Reverse?
+Gary Ferraro Here is code i had before i erase them from ecu and tcm :
Reading gearbox faults:
P240D
P2311 CAN communication with the engine system is faulty
P2312 One or more messages from the engine control unit are not available on the CAN bus
P2315 CAN communication with instrument cluster not plausible
P2402 The front right wheel speed of the traction system is implausible
P2222 Starter locking contact or Transmission oil temperature sensor signal improbable
From ECU :
P 703
p340
But I have ever change the stop pedal switch.
For now no codes and no kicking today. It's no easy to say when troubles arrive but i thinks it more often when it's cold and it's kick from 1 to 2 or 2 to 3. And sometimes when i don't press brake pedal before going to drive. I try a couple minutes before and everythings allright...
+14th Georges Street The P2222 Is a trans code, if that trans temp sensor is not reading correctly it may cause hard shifts.
Gary I was able to follow your procedure and notice that the 2 pressure solenoids screens are not present in my 722.6 from 1996 E320 should they be are they mandatory?
If not, you should be fine
Hi Gary, about how much does your shop charge to fit the Sonnax overlap sleeves + TCC Damper Valve to the 722.6 valve body? I have the parts (+ fluid, + new electrical connector), and I feel fairly confident installing myself but if the price isn't too bad, I would definitely prefer a professional such as yourself to perform this service. Also, is it necessary to replace the conductor plate if I throw no transmission codes and am not in limp mode? My main concerns are occasional harsh lockup/shifts when cold or driving slowly in heavy traffic, and a delay/lurch when the trans is placed into D on the first startup. Thanks!
Any codes? are you in the New York Area?
Gary Ferraro Hi Gary, no codes and yes I’m located in the NYC area.
@@sicilianstyle4517 OK, I'm on Long Island. are you on the Island?
@@GaryFerraro Not very far, I'm in Brooklyn approximately 40 mins - 1 hr away depending on traffic. I'm basically trying to gauge pricing to decide if it's worth it both as preventative maintenance and improvement of shift quality. For reference, I have a 2006 MB C350. Thanks!
@@sicilianstyle4517 If you can make arrangements to drop off the car for a day or so, i can check it out. Haven't really seen many problems with the overlap valves in the valvebody
Hello Sir Gary,I know this has been old thread and already asked you a question a year ago but still havent fix aand look at my car. just want to ask. If the 4matic drivetrain on these car model that If the front differential completely fails, does it makes the car immobile? My car C320 4matic front drive shaft spins fast when on drive and on jackstand but no movement on front wheels. I observed when idling and gear on drive rear wheel and rear drive shaft spins but when engine rev it stop but only front drive shaft spins past with no front wheel movement. When on the ground front drive shaft just spins but only move the car several inches. Thus the 4matic system transfer all the torque to less resistance that is the broken front differntial completely making the car immobile? I have inspected coupling on front drive shaft and is good and probably have internal problem. I can hear howling sound when rev in drive and a failed bearing sound too. Thanks. Hope any expert can shed light on my question. Thank you.
George cuadera The part that bolts to the transmission output shaft could be stripped. That part connects the output and input shaft of the transfer case. I have a video on this. Called 722.6. Quick tip.
What is the best and safest fluid cleaner for the valve body?
i Use Mineral Spirits, Brake Kleen can use as well
Hi Gary, thanks for the video! I have a couple questions. 1. Is there any benefit to installing a shift kit in these transmissions? Judging by the lack of more than one rebuild video, I suspect these transmissions are pretty solid overall. I have an '03 C32 AMG (115k miles) with this same trans. I noticed 1-2 is probably the "longest" shift of them all. 2. Is there anything you can recommend?
I never used a shift kit in these units. Was anything done to this trans? any codes? was the fluid level checked? so it feels like it's holding first gear? or does it slip through 2nd?
@@GaryFerraro Nothing that I know of was done to the transmission. I've only had the car since January. I have not checked the fluid level or condition, thought it is on my list to drop the pan and replace the filter. I'm curious what else I should do at that time.
As for my question about the 1-2 shift feeling longer than the others... There isn't slippage or flaring at all with any gear change. It's just the 1-2 shift takes a little longer than the other shift. I'd estimate all the shifts but 1-2 complete in 200-300 millisec, and 1-2 takes 400-600 millisec. My assumption is lots of abuse over the years has contributed to extra wear and tear on whatever governs the shift from first to second.
Aside from dropping the entire unit for a rebuild and inspection, are there components in the valve body that could be replaced that would help?
@@GaryFerraro I'll rephrase my question. When I drop the pan to change my filter, would it be worth it to remove the valve body and service it? Assuming the transmission was operating normally without any faults.
@@jacobkane3935 I never used a shift kit in one of these transmissions, never really had many valvebody problems either, just really conductor plates which are attached to the valvebody. If operating ok, no need to drop the valvebody
@@GaryFerraro that's what I needed, thanks!
Hi. I ordered the sonnax kit for the overlap valves, i removed the old ones and installed the new ones. They fit in pretty hard and one of them was very hard to fit inside. I am 100% sure i put them in the right place. Now the transmission is not "bumping" anymore but it won't shift right. Could you help me with info about the overlap valves? Is it ok to be hard to put them inside ( i can move them only with a screwdriver and they do not move freely). How can i make them move freely(if this is the problem). Thank you
When you say hard to put in, the overlap valves are in a sleeve, was the sleeve hard to put in or the valve itself? What kind of car are you working on?
I have a 2006 grand Cherokee. Occasionally it gets stuck in 3rd gear, turn the vehicle off and back on and it will go back to normal. I have a cheap scanner it throws a P0700 and P0730. I have already replaced the conductor plate and plug. Would cleaning the valve body like this possibly solve my issue?
How does the car drive, feel any slipping? If you clear the code, how long before it comes back? Gary
+Gary Ferraro it drives great when it's not stuck, no slipping, although the it sometimes hesitates when going from reverse to drive. After I clear the code as long I'm taking it easy it's fine but if I try to say pass someone on the highway it seems to induce it.
Just to confirm, its full of fluid, does this have a dipstick, or if it doesnt, do you have the tool to check the fluid.
+Gary Ferraro I can't say for sure if it's full of fluid bc it doesn't have a dipstick. I took about 4 quarts out when I replaced the board. Didn't train the tourque converter or anything, maybe it was already low. I just purchased the truck, the fluid did smell burnt. I'll have to get the tool to check the level and get back to you in a day or two to confirm the level, thanks for responding!
Ok, sounds good.
Hi Gary, my car is a 2003 E320 , jerks at slow speeds, replaced the conductor plate, new oil new filter,new plug and did not get fixed, some people said is the converter, I went ahead and changed the transmission with the converter, only 60,000 miles on that transmision , an still have the same problem no codes, do you think it could be the torkconverter control solenoid?
+Jose P Hello, So if i understand this correctly, after the first attempt with conductor plate, you changed the trans and conveter same problem, so a different trans and converter(used in assuming) and same problem, 2 transmissions and converters,same problem? correct? Does the jerking go away when hot? were there ever any codes? Gary
Gary Ferraro I wish people followed through with their questions, lol
Hi Garry im having problems with my 7722.6 with a really bad flare from 3-4 I removed valve body and cleaned it after watching this video i also fitted a new conductor plate and seal sealing sleeve as well as filter and oil. It ran perfectly for around 50 mls but now the flare is back, its driving me mad any thoughts on my next move? Cheers
+The huntsman Usually when you have a flared shift, the F1 andF2 sprags are at fault, the sprags are the bridges to the shifts, any gear monitoring codes?
+Gary Ferraro thanks for the speedy reply my codes off my snap on modis are 110 n2 to n3 caparison implausible and 147 gear implausible or trans slipping. I really thought i cracked it as it really was running great, its fine cold but soon as its up to temp it starts flairing. Looking like i may have to take it out and have a look
with those codes a bad conductor plate for sure, do you have the tool to make sure the trans is full.
+Gary Ferraro yes i have a dipstick and will check it again tomorrow i fitted a brand new conducter plate when the valve body was out, when I originally dropped the valve block there was a little metal paste on the front speed sensor (closest to bell housing) il drop the valve body out again on Tuesday if there is metal paste on it again il pull the complete trans out to have a look and check the sprags. Its just wierd how it was working fine now playing up again. I really dont want to take it to a uk transmission specialist as they are only interested in selling me a recon unit and with the age of it its not worth the £1500 cost.
This flares all the time? A bad conductor plate will make it shift erratic and not flare. The sprags transition the shifts. They updated the sprags from 16 to 20 elements, but the elements wear out and the trans will flare, really cant tell by looking at it,unless it falls apart.
hi, thanks for the great video. I am struggling with an issue on 722.6 Mercedes W204 2008.
mileage of the car is 100k km. condition of transmission oil was good without excessive debris.
transmission jerks around 1500rpm when accelerating gently, before shifting from 1-2. This doesn't happen if the gas pedal pushed hard.
the problem felt when the torque converter PWM signal is applied to the solenoid. disabling the torque converter solenoid will disappear the problem.
searching about the TCC circuit on 722.6, I realized there is a damper valve for TCC on late models. So I just replaced the valve body(without control plate and solenoids) with a used one, but the problem exists.
Reseting adaptation of torque converter and learning it again does not solve the problem. There is no fault code on TCU.
any idea?
Do you have a scan tool that shows live data to confirm lock-up is being commanded on? usually it can come on after a shift into 2nd. So does this happen before the 1-2 shift or on the 1-2 shift(when transitioning from first to second)?
Yes i check with Xentry Diagnose. The lock up engages before transmission shift from 1 to 2.
Same problem on my c200 kompressor 2007. Did you solve the problems?
Informative, would have liked more detail with what each valve did what?
Will keep that in mind, thanks for watching
Hello Gary, I just subscribed from your feeds. I have a 2003 c320 that has the same transmission in the video. 2 weeks ago it just crap out. I can put in drive and reverse it moves but barely like kind of slipping. I have changed the filter and conductor plate and connector but still the same. There is a humming noise when you put on drive and reverse. Could it be the valve body? Is the solenoid on these have common failures? I can hear grinding too when the shifter is in drive and I put it back in park. I my trans toast? It happens just 2 weeks ago when the temperature deeps below freezing. Thank you.
Ok, so you hear a noise in reverse and in drive, when you put the car in neutral or park, does the noise go away?
Gary Ferraro yes, there is no noise in park or neutral. Thank you for getting in touch with me.
Thats usually a sign of a bad converter
Gary Ferraro okay. Thank you. What do you suggest. Is it ok to slap a used trans or just a converter or rebuilt. What is your advice. Thank you.
Does the car drive ok but just make noise?
Great video.
I didn't get it how much torque?
+nebrigic 80-90 inch pounds, solenoid hold down brackets i torque to 70 inch pounds. Thanks for watching. Gary
Hii Gary,First of all i congratulate you for the good work.i do have a 98 Mercedes Benz c280.Transmission rith 85,000 miles on it shifts to 1st gear and reverse only.should replace conduct plate only or its also good to do the valve body overhaul?check engine code is P0915.
+Mathew Rutto Matt, robably mean is P0715(input speed sensor), First,if you clear the code the car will most likely shift until it sees a problem again. If in fact the code is P0715, the conductor plate is most likely bad, check the fluid level(you may need a special"tool" which is a dipstick), also make sure the trans oil did not work its way up the wires and into the tcm, If all looks good replace the conductor plate. When i have P0715, most of the time it is the conductor plate. Gary
Yes Gary i mean 0715.Diagnostic tool read Turbine/input shaft speed sensor.i ordered a new transmission dipstick and i will check the ATF level as i narrow down the problems.Thanks once again for you response.I already checked the plug and its dry.so the TCM is still good i believe.
Mathew Rutto, ok, good deal, When you get the dipstick, just feed it through the tube til it bottoms out, it may seem the dipstick isnt going down far enough, butjusttil it bottoms out, if fluid level is ok, your conductor plate is probabaly bad. let me know how it goes, im here to help. Gary
Sure i will let you know Gary.Thanks
Mathew Rutto Your Welcome, Thank you for watching. Gary
Is there any re-programming or resetting required after a new conductor plate is changed?Richard
No there is not, just a road test
What's a good solution for cleaning the valvebody at home? Brake cleaner, mineral spirits?
Either are ok to clean, brake clean may get into the worm tracks better
Hi Gary,i did install replace conduct plate with a new one and erase the code but still it wont shift.NO ENGINE LIGHT!What do you think?
+Mathew Rutto When you say it wont shift, is it in failsafe or stuck in first?
? My 2008 dodge sprinter 3.0 turbo has a issue up shifting when the temperature outside starts heating up. could this be the gas pedal sensor over heating. When its cold outside it shifts fine.
is it worth opening it and cleaning if it thumps from 3-2 gear and 2-3 (sometimes gets stuck in 1st for a few seconds then big bump)? i changed the oil + connector plug and opened the valve body to check the springs (all seemed to be ok), i didn't clean the "paths" in the valvebody
Did you find the problem? how are the sprags?
sprags seemed to be ok, with minimal wear. I could observe some lines and small bumps on the overlapping valves, i cleaned them with a 3000 sand paper and it worked much better (but only for 30-40 minutes of driving)
With the way its working, are there codes present. Also, the radiators like to go bad and water will enter the trans, any signs of water intrusion?
+Gary Ferraro no trouble codes, no water in the oil, everything looks good from the mechanical point of view, just harsh shifting from 2-3 and 3-2
The K2 clutch comes on in 3rd, all look ok with that(k2 clutch has the input shaft) I would also change out those sprags, they wear and have a high failure rate.
Great job Gary
احمد محمد Thank you.
Hi, can you tell me where i can get the o ring kit for the solenoids? Would you have a part number or where to buy them? Im doing the exact valve body as we speak. Thanks Peter
Its very hard just to find the sub kit wih the solenoid o-rings, you may have to buy an overhaul kit to get them, you could try to google it or i buy my parts from transtar, website is www.transtar1.com thanks for watching. Gary
Thanks Gary, will do.
Your welcome
Hi Gary , great video . I have 2006 dodge charger with a w5a580 nag 1 transmission. it was going in to limp mode , gave me codes p2784,p0734 p0700, I change the filter and oil , ran great no problems local driving but when I went to the next town 20 miles it started to whine and went to limp mode again. had it towed let it rest overnight and had it warm up next day work great no problem's few miles no codes .I am afraid to go a 20 mile trip any help would be awesome
Joe, The P2784 i believe is a speed sensor code, the speed sensors are located on the conductor plate which is attached to the valvebody. With this code present i would change the conductor plate. The P0734 is a gear ratio error code, which can be present if there are speed sensor codes. Gary If it ever goes into failsafe mode while your driving(wont shift) just pull off to the side and shut off the car for a few minutes, this will erase the memory of the computer and the car will shift again until sees the problem.
thank you will let you know how i made out
ok, thanks
Thanks Gary i replaced the conductor plate and my car is running great for two weeks now . thank you for your video and thanks for helping me out your the greatest
Joe, Glad it worked out, glad i could help. Gary
Hello, please where can I order for The solenoid replacement seals and replacement solenoid too? Thank you
Where are you located?
139/5000
Why is there a 3 to 4 second delay before entering gear, after changing the body valve, selenoils, filter, shifter, etc.?
How is reverse? is the delay there hot and cold?
I turkey Istanbul from you I have a tool that will be a question of protons brand, model 1998 Mitsubishi vehicle with the engine automatic transmission's my problem means I'm running but not moving is doing a very slow start automatic transmission I made new, but the car cıktı solenoid problem spot is not coming up, how do we solve, you must help me
Excellent video!
Can you pls tell me. How much would a val, body overhaul cost???? And if I was to send it to you guys can you guys do it ??
What year is your car? Why do you want a valve body overhaul? any codes present? Year,make, model and engine size please
Gary as I said , the problem do not go away if I turn it of after jerking, but one thin I just connected the scanner special for Mercedes Benz and it says " transmission control (vgs) Control unit ) is deffective, what do that means , does it means that the valvebody is bad?
+Jose P Sorry for the late reply. The 722.6 does not have the computer in the valvebody, its somewhere on the car, The trans has its own computer.
+Jose P Did you resolve it yet? I have same problem
i know this is an old thread, but with the problem i have its worth trying for an answer,
my car is a 2003 c220 cdi auto with 126k on the clock,
the problem with the gearbox is this, when the car is cold it flies up the gears,
as soon as the temp hits 50 boom no drive at all,
so far i have changed the gear selector,
changed oil and filter,
changed the plug with the 7m nut,
checked the ecu under the passenger carpet,
and no joy, the drive comes back into 2nd gear for a very short while, 3/4mile, then boom, gone again,
switch it off for a few minutes and off you go for another quarter mile in 2nd,
the atf level in gearbox is almost at the top off the correct dipstick,i also tried it with the atf at just above minimum,
ive ordered the plate for inside the gearbox, along with a new filter gasket and the wiring plug, with the 7m nut,
if im barking up the wrong tree please please please put me out off my misery, in advance with hope and prayer thankyou.
Hello,
To me it sounds like a classic clogged filter. I know you changed it, but the fact that you shut off the car for a few and start it back up and it goes
thankyou for so swift response, can that cause a total loss off gear...over and over?
Yes, with a clogged screen, when the car gets hot, it will stop moving, cold it will move. When the scree is clogged it cuts off line pressure and the car wont move. Question when you change the screen is it ok for a day or so?
was fine for 2 weeks
OK, i would say your screen is clogging up, something is coming apart in the trans, if the trans works ok i would think your converter clutch is coming apart clogging the screen
Gary, i have 722.6, it shifts fine but has terrible vibration/ shudder in low rpms. I have changed the conductor plate and filter, not much difference. I was thinking of sticking in a rebuilt valve body. Would this help?
+Tyler55 P Do you feel the vibration in park or neutral, are there any codes present? Is your engine running ok(no misfires)? Gary
+Gary Ferraro Another viewer has a simlar problem, he changed the mass air flow sensor and it seems to be ok. Gary
+Gary Ferraro
I bought the car with 85k on it, currently no codes but before I had the plate changed there were some codes. The previous owner spent 2k trying to fix the trans and was left with being told to just replace it, so he sold it on to me.
+Tyler55 P How's that affect transmission? I have spare TCM I might swap in to see if that helps, but anyway to circumvent mass air flow sensor?
A bad running engine will affect the way the trans works, do you have codes stored in the tcm?or codes stored in the ecm?
What kind of cleaning fluid do you use in your spray bottle?
That was Mineral Sprits
បើបាននិយាយខ្មែរល្អណាស់
Davin An Thanks for watching