nice video and especially the instruction about using a metal slave pin to hold the position that you can just one punch the heck outta it! also the leather belt to protect for any incident! dude only I m hella poor or else I send my SP-01 to you
It really isn't imperative but if the pin starts to get damaged you can flip it around backward and get a lot more life out of it. Rotating the slot pointing toward the hammer would be the worst position. That will allow the firing pin to cut into it the fastest.
@@cajungunworks526I’m glad I saw this! I accidentally had it more pointed towards 11 O Clock once I got it all the way in and didn’t wanna have to immediately replace it.
@@banana_bread_at_workI’m having a hard time pounding the firing pin in, like I have brass everywhere from my hammer and pounding it so much. Did you have trouble putting the mcarbo firing pin in?
Lighten the trigger draw. Light hammer springs have a tendency to not penetrate all primers though so you install a slightly longer firing pin to accommodate for the lighter spring.
is it better to have the slide installed to the frame, then install the roll pin?
nice video and especially the instruction about using a metal slave pin to hold the position that you can just one punch the heck outta it! also the leather belt to protect for any incident! dude only I m hella poor or else I send my SP-01 to you
I have bul Cherokee I got from a pawn shop. I’m pretty sure it has the wrong firing pin block could you suggest one of your blocks to replace it?
Great video keep them coming.
Excellent video! What did you use for the "dummy pin?" It's obviously a smaller diameter than the firing pin retaining pin.
I used a 2.5 mm hex wrench and it was perfect. I used small end and then taped long end to slide to keep it in place while driving in new pin.
With regard to the 12 o'clock position on the retaining pin, why does it need to be like that?
So that the surfaces that are rubbing on it are rubbing on the round bits and not the flat spot of the pin
It really isn't imperative but if the pin starts to get damaged you can flip it around backward and get a lot more life out of it. Rotating the slot pointing toward the hammer would be the worst position. That will allow the firing pin to cut into it the fastest.
@@cajungunworks526 Makes sense, thank you!
@@cajungunworks526I’m glad I saw this! I accidentally had it more pointed towards 11 O Clock once I got it all the way in and didn’t wanna have to immediately replace it.
What other pins should I replace on my CZ P01 to make it more reliable?
Is this for titan
Its that roll pin a 3mm or a 1/8 pin?
I believe he said 3mm
Why do you need to hammer the pin in one whack and not just tap it in?
The hammer pins do not have to go in one hit. The only thing we recommend driving in fast is the sear pin on the decockers.
Will your firing pin work with MCarbos springs?
I bought the mcarbo kit, but just the cgw firing pin. Used just the pin and firing pin spring that gcw shipped works great
@@popupheadlights thanks for your input!
@@banana_bread_at_workI’m having a hard time pounding the firing pin in, like I have brass everywhere from my hammer and pounding it so much. Did you have trouble putting the mcarbo firing pin in?
Why do you need a reduced hammer spring out of curiosity
Lighten the trigger draw. Light hammer springs have a tendency to not penetrate all primers though so you install a slightly longer firing pin to accommodate for the lighter spring.
@@eggnogmonkey thank you.