I have be in the metal building business over 40 years , roof panels up to 70 feet long . 100,000 sq ft and larger buildings , All types of panels up to 8 inch thick foam sandwitch end between metal . This is a excellent demo video , this man knows what he is talking about a true Professional👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸
Not bad for an introductory video, especially the comments about knowing what one is doing with trim and cracking due to expansion and contraction with panels that are forced. The clutch setting on the drill was too high and the angle of the driven screw was, in some cases, off perpendicular. The type of washer above the screw gasket is also important. I like the more cupped ones. They prevent total compression and torn neoprene gasket.
I live in Greece and I have just installed a metal roof consisting of two sheets of galvanized enameled metal with about 4 inches of foam in between. It is not straight but shaped to look like ceramic tiles. It is one continuous length from top to edge. I had lots of grief from the previous tile roof due to little pitch and I hope this one will be way better. Some what pricey, I hope it's worth it.
@@wisconsinfarmer4742 Agreed, it didn't even look like he was using the clutch on the drill. IT should never be torqueing your wrist with every screw. The clutch setting should compress the washer some, but not too much.
Got a corrugated galvanized roof put on 1980. Back then we used neoprene washered roofing nails nailed into the elevated ribs not on the flats. Neoprene is still holding up and no leaks. I’ve painted the roof once with aluminum paint to stop a small amount of rust that started appearing around the 25 year mark. Not bad for 40 years in upstate New York weather. I am sure I would be on my third roof with shingles
@Joseph .. that's a great point that I also had just made in a comment. The fastening is to be done on the raised portion of the corrugated panel. That's something taught for the simple reason of physics. There is much greater flow of water going over those fasteners on the flats than there is on a corrugated rise. Kudos to you
I've put installed a few corrugated roofs & that is exactly right. They never leak enough to cause damage if the nails are on the tops of the ridges. You can even have some nails back out a bit and they won't leak at all.
Put on a corrugated roof in 1980. Some nails started backing out last year. Wood underneath was excellent. I replaced with screws and expect roof and metal to last a lot longer than me.
Just found your channel. I’ve have learned more in this 7 minute video than in the past year watching others. You are direct and to the point and for that I am thankful !
Ready to continue the conversation? Luke Wilson sat down to respond to some of your questions and comments about proper fastening of corrugated metal here: bit.ly/screwsintheflats
I've roofed since 1974, I do Inspections and repairs these days. I cannot stand roofing videos on RUclips, But my response is to applaud you for your presentation, Very well done and you are in my thoughts, a Professional!! Hands Down, well done Brother. I enjoyed this ☮️☀️👈🏽
Applaud what?.... The fact he has no idea!... With metal roofing you NEVER screw through the tray... Only ever fix through the high ribs of the sheets!!…. Obviously American's don't use a lot of metal sheet roofing... qldsheetmetal.com.au/about-us/installation-maintenance/roofing-installation-guide/
@@gabrielbarnes251 Back when we used nails for attaching metal panels, we always put them on the ridges. But when they came out with the screws, we started putting them on the flat because that was recommended by the manufacturers.
GOOD SHOW, installed a "GALVALUME" corrugated panel roof in 2009 and placed screws only in the high spots, tops of the panel's peaks to prevent / limit leaks. No leaks yet . THANKS Standing seam seems like the better choice because there are NO EXPOSED SCREWS. I also used acrylic roof cement caulking at entry points of the screws for added seal... The proof is in the missing ceiling stains, NO LEAKS is what it's all about.
I did exactly what you're talking about on my roof (installing screws at the top of the ribs instead of in the flat surface) back in 1991. I used 26 gauge metal, desert tan in color, 12/12 pitch 44 squares with valleys and no one has been on that roof since I put it on and i have never had an issue one.
hope mine lasts as long. TRIED galvalume , if memory is correct, it's a mix of left over scraps of aluminum, galvanize and metal. melted & pressed, whatever they do to make it,,, ? . NO RUST found yet, stays reflective .
I trust what the narrated says in this video. He has a straight forward honest personality. You've convinced me to install a striated standing seam metal roof.
When I install these metal roofs with gasketed screws, I use a screw gun with a clutch set correctly, as not to overdrive the screw, blowing out the gasket. Lastly, I use an appropriate colored Geoseal tripolymer sealant bead over EVERY, screwhead, EVERY screwhead. In 35 years, I've never had a callback for a leak. Only call back, was for when a huge oak fell on their home, to redo their section damaged with new metal. Good day, sir.
We have had this type of roofing, we call it V-crimp, corrugated is different in Australia over 60-70 years, we screw in the hill not valleys stops leaks.
Yes..screwing the valley of the product is not the correct procedure...I don't know why people started doing it that way but warranties will be voided through most manufactures unless the screws are in the raised ribs.
Good video! I’ve been telling people these same things for years! The corrugated panel was designed for agricultural use and should have stayed there! If you want metal on your house, use the standing seam. I wish that he had talked about the anti-siphon rib on the corrugated panel and the proper way that it should be installed. It’s unbelievable how many of the corrugated panels are installed incorrectly with the panels not lapped correctly. Good job, young Skywalker!
My house was built with shingles 40 years ago. In ten years they showed signs of stress & deterioration, lots of wing here. My nephew put a corrugated steel roof over it and 30 years later it looks about the same as the day it was done. That standing seam stuff is really nice, but very expensive.
Sorry for the late response. Love your comment. You are exactly right, I see that all the time also. That small channel is designed to carry water down if it ever finds its way over the rib.
Great Summary. Standing Seam is a great roof. Clean and environmentally friendly. We have it on our building in an historic area, serves the sentiment and flavor of the area. But more importantly, its a roof that will last, kinda important when you have solar panels mounted on top of it.
I'm planning on a metal roof and Luke described this in a way that even I can understand. Straight Talk. This video made me a bit more wiser and knowledgeable to make Better decisions! Thanks Luke!
I helped a friend at work build a 30x60 foot log house between 2000-2002. The roof peak was 21 feet above the slab, with a 40 degree pitch. We installed 19 foot-long red corrugated panels...took several days. I often wondered about the rubber washers and their lifetime before failing. The standing seam is a far superior design, taking the washer failure possibility out of the question. Great video.
We also use drip edge up the rake and fold over like you did on the eve. We use the Malco edge roller. If you don't want oil canning on the flat panels run half inch foam backer cord underneath the center of the panel vertically.
This fella here is right I have a friend that has a metal roof on his house, and he had a leak shortly after installation from a contractor that he knew. I met my friend years later with him asking me to find his leak. It had taken me three tries to find the leak. Here they never put a sealer down each length of a valley, and a lot of other work that this contractor had done wasn't done correctly. We have been slowly making things right for him.
if you laid it like he has, then there are 1000's of square feet of metal roof fixed incorrectly and guaranteed to leak … qldsheetmetal.com.au/about-us/installation-maintenance/roofing-installation-guide/
I just had a metal roof put on mine here in SW Florida and I see what he is saying about the rubber washers possibly degrading over time. I may up there replacing a thousand of them myself in 5 years. Lol
Thanks for the great video Luke. I installed that same standing seam metal on over 40 squares of roofing on my own home. It was very, very time consuming. I love the finished look but I hate trying to clean it. I have yet to find a shoe that will stick to a wet metal surface and it is very hard to wash from standing on a ladder. Not to mention the huge difference in cost over that of a high grade of shingle. I spent more than $12,000 on the metal materials alone. If I knew then what I know now, I probably wouldn't have done it.
pj, check out www.cougarpaws.com/products/steelwalker-boot these boots have magnets in the soul and work pretty well. Also there are tons of safety anchor points you can attach to the rib of the standing seam permanently so when you're up there you can tie off.
Thank you for the video which I found informative. Metal residential roofing, in most Australian applications, is often referred to as "corrugated iron". There is a wider range of profiles available for residential, commercial and industrial applications. Other roofing materials are normally clay or cement roofing tiles. Shingles are very rarely used. In the metal application, the metal fixing screw, with its included sealing washer, is placed in the raised arch/ridge of the corrugated roofing panel while being careful not to overdrive the fixing screw. Much easier these days with clutched drills and drivers. In this way, the water and most debris runs down the roof in the valleys of the panel and away from the raised section through which the screws are fastened. In times past metal-clad rooves were often nailed. Many of these rooves have had the nails replaced with screws, and remained otherwise intact and serviceable. I notice that some guides make the distinction between 1. wall applications - fixings in valleys, and 2. roof applications - fixings through the arch/ridge top of roofing material, as placed. We agree that the standing seam product, with its fixing underneath the cladding, is the better option of the two. However, the cost of a standing seam, full roof installation can be a deal-breaker for some residential clients considering both products. On the other hand, the cottage in which I live was built in the 1940s decade. With five-yearly inspections, as I believe, is the least that should be done on any roofing system, the corrugated iron roof has stood up well. If the screw fixings had been placed in the valleys of the panels, as I have seen on rooves that have deteriorated with leaks, I doubt that my roof would have stood up as well over those 80 odd years. Other comments, on this site, note that the quality of the work is, as is the case here in Australia, dependent on the skills of the contractor and their team. I like the use of plywood/OSB underlayment, wraps and insulation in American applications and the tendency toward a fully encapsulated, conditioned envelope. With the additions of underlayments, wraps and solid insulation materials, however, I think that many problems may not become apparent for years after the primary cause of the problems commenced. It is probably true that the fewer materials placed between the external roof cladding and the ceiling mean that any problems with the cladding are likely to be identified and corrected more quickly. We, in Australia, are also catching up, I believe, on the "passive house" applications and principles", partly because of changes in lifestyle. We are now tending to live and entertain more inside than in the past. Your video regarding the queries presented about the placement of fixings on metal rooves is interesting and I have added a note there as well. Cheers, Peter
Sure I would put a roof on a tractor shed myself but when it comes to my home with a roof full of hips and valleys and skylights and all sorts of protrusions to flash around I wouldn’t have a clue. That’s what these guys are for.
I did a roof with a similar 3’ wide product called Norclad here in Alaska.i did the roof and lived there for 30 years with no problems. My new house has standing seam roof.
That was an excellent video. I have used the first type of metal roofing on my storage shed. I will use the 2nd type of metal roofing when it is time to do my roof on my house.
kermitefrog64 you do know that the standing seam can triple the price? I thought I was too one time until I checked the price. Suddenly the 29 gauge R-9 panel looked just fine to me.
I used to do metal roofing when I was young. 2 yrs ago my Wife and I had to put a New roof on our house after storm damage our contractor baled on us so we did it ourselves in 110 degree temps. Anybody can get the job done. But believe me you better do your homework and understand what your doing.
When I watch RUclips videos about abandoned houses most with metal roofs are in good shape while the ones that have shingles are falling down from water damage.
We had storm damage about five years ago that ruined our tile roof, and the insurance payout allowed me to afford a standing seam roof. The company had a machine that roiled the panels on site and the results are awesome. Ours have a diamond pattern in them which I guess is for the oil-canning problem but it isn't noticeable from the ground. Other houses in our neighborhood put new tile roofs on and they already look like crap with all of the black fungus. Metal is the way to go if you can afford it.
Ready to continue the conversation? Luke Wilson sat down to respond to some of your questions and comments about proper fastening of corrugated metal here: bit.ly/screwsintheflats
Now I have watched a bunch of videos. Trying to learn and decide the best way for me to tackle my own project roof. Your video was good and helpful. Thank you, for that! But in most 98% of the videos yours included. No one seems to be addressing "the bullions?" The wood spacers attached to the roof deck on existing without tear off. I opted for .75 or 3/4" as I could run a bunch of 2x4s and 2x6son my table saw to give the largest yield as it was also what I had and bunch of scraps of. A few new but not a lot. 😉 22squares on 24"oc with 2 rows on the top and bottom edges at 9"oc. Its what worked for me. Total of 12 rows front and back hip roof. Anyways, the best way to keep your roof deck dry and free from rot is to make sure you have an air gap. FACT!!!! "So IMPORTANT" THE ABILITY TO LET IT DRY IF YOU EVER DID HAVE A SCREW WASHER FAIL OR WATER intrusion. not to mention condensation issues with metal sweating. I believe that's why you all recommend synthetic Over Felt paper..... I get it helps with noise a lot being pressed up against the deck. It limits vibration. But it's totally screws any kind of Energy Efficiency that you may have had from reflective material. When pressed against the deck with no air gap even ASHARE only gives you a tiny decimal R-value. But I installed thermal shield on the underside of the decking some years ago. With a 3.5" air gap and WOW what a difference! 50 degrees on my 1 story home and 65 degrees on my 2 story barn. Anyways, I digress. You only mentioned corrugated roofing 29 gauge minimal. Which I appreciate it that's what I'm using. So much science and very few talk about it... Mmmmm
I live in northern WI and we get lots of snow. I live in a log home and I replaced the roof several years ago. I would not go with steel for two reasons. 1) The snow falls off steel. I don't want feet of snow falling off and laying against the home. Snow remaining against logs is not good. 2) Because snow falls off, you can't have gutters. At least that's what I'm told. If a log home doesn't have good roof water management, you will have log decay, especially at the corner ends. When I bought the home (at a very good price) it had an old asphalt roof and no gutters. It cost me $13,000 to have a log restoration company replace several rotted ends at some corners. I replaced the roof and added gutters. No more rotting wood. Life is good. In fall I have to keep leaves out of the gutters. My Stihl backpack blower and custom 2" PVC extensions and ells make that quick work. My pole barn built a few years ago has ribbed like this man's first example. It will be fine for many years.
My neighbor had a metal roof installed and it was standing seam. The company that did it had its own machine that did all the roof forming. It looks great, would love a metal roof but its out of my pay grade. Looks great.
Garages or sheds, if you have access for inspection. Also siding. I had 1 leaking screw in a pan and it took 3 tries to deal it. For a house i will only use standing seam.
Ready to continue the conversation? Luke Wilson sat down to respond to some of your questions and comments about proper fastening of corrugated metal here: bit.ly/screwsintheflats
Interesting First time I have ever seen the fixings go into the pan of a profile. Been contracting for 51 years We in NZ fix through the ridge of the profile. The sealing washers are subjective to fixing and warranty Here we have to give a 15 year guarantee. All materials to be a 50 year life span
@@sarush1204 You're not upside down. Every farm home around me, nearly 17 including my own home, every panel is screwed at the ridge and not the valley. Every home that I have seen with metal roofing in the states, all have the screws at the ridge, unless it is a standing seam roof. My uncle has done roofing for 39 years, and he always said, if you put a screw in the valley, that will be the first place that will leak when it does because your run off is through the valley. If you get it in the ridge, no leaks and less deterioration of the rubber washer.
@@sarush1204 Haha, I would watch kiwi videos. Kiwis definitely know how to have a good time. 2 of my sons are out your way for college, Australia right now. They have wanted to be Marine Biologists since they were wee kids, so I am funding their adventure as long as they keep their grades good. I hear that they will be going to New Zealand in April, going to the smaller islands and staying in Auckland for a while. If this covid bollocks would ever end, I would go for a visit. Only been to New Zealand once, and that was 3 1/2 years ago with my mate Travis Pastrana. Did a few shows there with Nitro Circus in Christchurch, Blenheim, Auckland and Kensington. Had a great time, but I absolutely DESPISE the bloody flight though. Longest flight in my entire life.
How come snap lock instead of double lock seams on the standing seams? Work with my son in VT and we have always used double lock 24 gauge. Glad you pointed out how it is hemmed at the bottom. We also hem it on the rake edges too.
Makes sense about the screw washers. The same principle applies to the rubber pipe boots used to seal the pvc vent pipes protruding from residential roofs. My experience is that those need to be replaced two to three times over the life of an asphalt roof because they crack and water works into the crack and underneath the roofing material, or down the pipe and into the interior ceilings.
My brother had this kind of roof on his house, it worked flawlessly untill a tree whacked his roof. The house insurance had to reroof the whole house because there was no way to match up the colour. **** important factor with this roofing*** It is completely re-usable. I have had it on my roof for ten years and there is nothing wrong with it. There are no holes through the roofing material that need to be lined up. It clips apart and together like it was new. My roof was a lot smaller so I had lots of material. Free roofing that will last my lifetime.
I have trust issues with the lock type metal. We live in harsher times with weather events but it does look nicer just has me a bit worried since my home is in an area where we see above average storms with strong winds. Now i can personally vouch for 24ga metal roofs standing up to hurricane katrina with zero damage to roof. All we had was a little metal corner pushed up
We had a bad experience with the corrugated panels - we call it ProPanel out here (Colo). When we bought our house, the inspector didn't check the roof because it had snowed the night before and, when the snow melted, there were screws backed out everywhere due to what I can only believe was a budget build. What a mess - if you look to buy a house with ProPanel roofing - cavet emptor... Awesome video, thanks much!
I've never seen a metal panel roof fastened through the flats. That's asking for the trouble with washer sealing he describes. The I've only seen fasteners go in the crown which keeps them up out of the water flow, and the crown has some flex to give any over-seating a little forgiveness. (plus you'd always test the substrate resistance and set the proper clutch level [-1 notch for momentum] to avoid over-seating.)
Nothing worse than overdriven screws in the rib. Most roofs fail at improperly installed flashing by mechanics that don't know that water runs downhill.
All manufactures of metal roofing panels suggest putting the screws in the flats of the panels. Check out the websites of Metal Sales Manufacturing, Central States manufacturing, American Building products just to name a few.
Like others have mentioned here, the screws on the corrugated roofing should be installed on the high points of the panels not on the flats for roofing. Panels used in the interior like in garages screwing on the flats is fine. The roof panels can easily be pre-drilled on the ground, slightly smaller than the screw itself which also allows a nice consistent layout and nice finished appearance. I’ve been installing corrugated roofing for decades and have had zero issues even through PA winters.
No, you don't pre-drill any holes into the corrugated metal roofing panels; the screws/fasteners easily penetrate the roof panels and pre-drilling holes in the panels is not recommended. Even though the screws have a rubberized washer I always put a dab of silicone and screw through the silicone dab to avoid any possibility of leaks. And I use a typical modern drill driver with an adjustable torque to avoid overdriving the screws in too deeply. Fabral, the manufacturer of the corrugated metal roofing panels in the video has detailed installation instructions: fabral.com/media/1229/pf-blue-book-7-15.pdf
Ashley Hussin not recommend why exactly? I’m all ears. If you’ve ever been on a roof pushing the self drilling screws through the HIGH POINTS of the corrugated roofing you’d understand it’s very easy to slide off the rib and scratch the finish up. You simply drill slightly smaller than the screw on the ground. Safer for the finish, safer and easier for the installers on the roof. I’ve been working with corrugated roofing for close to 30 years and have yet to see someone using silicone on these roofing screws. Do you know how time consuming and messy that could be? If you’re installing thousands of square feet of roofing on a job that would be absolutely ridiculous! We’ve installed on all kinds of buildings and varying pitches and have had ZERO issues without silicone and pre-drilling.
@@TheMentch171 - Why? Because pre-drilling all the holes in the panels is unnecessary, I suppose. I just gave you a link to the manufacturer's installation guide and they don't say it's required. You're "all ears" but no eyes apparently. And you're needlessly pre-drilling all the holes in the panels and then you btch that putting silicone before driving the screws to prevent the possibility of any leaks is too much work! I'm not gonna waste my time in a pointless argument with an expert RUclips roofer who's too lazy to read the link I provided, so buh-bye.
Ashley Hussin no don’t waste your time because you’re wrong. Obviously all you know is what you watch and read, no experience. Certainly not 30 years experience and working with co-workers with much more than that. Im not an expert RUclips roofer I’m a very experienced building contractor. So as you say bye bye.
Ashley Hussin oh and a little tip in case you actually go and install a substantial amount of roofing ever, stack your panels on sawhorses on the ground, get a proper layout for the screw pattern, mark the top sheet and drill multiple/many/maybe even all the panels at once. That saves a ton of time. It makes the layout perfect and ready for the people on the roof too.
You would be WAY ahead to put the screws on top of the Ridges, that way only a direct hit from a rain drop would even have a chance of leaking. Top of ridges screws also hold the metal together more (Just use 3/4" longer screws.. like 2" , you should also paint screw head and washer. 2. over driving the screw will also make a circle of rust around where it hit the roof metal. 3. There is also 24 gauge metal panels in corrugate avail if you look for it. 29 gauge will "oil pan" and look bad from road.
Sorry that should not be 29 ga. metal. We would hope that it is 26 ga., which is the thinnest that should be used on a roof as far as we are concerned. This may have been just a misspoke number, but if they are truly using 29 ga. don't buy it, because it is too thin to be used on a roof unless they apply it over an underlayment of at least 5/8" plywood, or if on a home, over 1x4" skip sheeting that has a moisture barrier applied. If that roofing is being screwed to Perlins you need even thicker metal such as 26ga. or even 24ga. You see how they have screwed down that panel in what are called the valleys? that is not suitable for homes, unless the plywood is covered by 20 lb. felt tar paper as well as a moisture barrier, for durability. Also that wide of a panel will expand and shrink more than the old standard of two foot wide panels of the same style, which he states may cause the screws to work their way out. If you plan on screwing these types of panels down on the ridges which means using longer screws, you will also find that they'll work their way out faster on those wider panels because of the expansion and contraction on that wide of the metal. Because of what he states about the life of that rubber washer, it may not be advisable to use that system on a home, and is more suited for roofing on out-building or garages. 34 years ago while working at a company call Champion Metal, we help the engineer we worked with, to design that standing rib snap together type of panel. He made the roll forming machine we used to make that standing rib. The tolerances were very tight because that snap edge is only about 1/8" which forces the panel to run through the machine with literally no side to side movement. That standing rib also has issues such as when you snap that panel down it will actually scrape the paint off and possibly even the galvanized coating leaving the bare steel subject to rust, but it is still the better of the two types of panels. Considering how he applied that standing seam panel would not work because we have actually put up panels which were a minimum of 20' long for an old barn roof. You'd have to snap the panel down and use a tool to crimp that lip up under the drip edge. If you live in snow country that standing rib is the one to use as it will allow the snow to slide off with minimal effort. Some counties will not allow you to put on a Comp roof shingle in snow country, because a wet snow may cause your roof to collapse if you don't get up there and push the snow off every time it snows.
We have used Metal sheeting in Australia forever. Sheets of that style are rolled with about 25mm Ribs closer together. They cover about 763mm 2'6" . Today most roofs have gone back to what we call Custom Orb style. The same as old style Corrugated metal sheeting. Fashion more than anything. The ribs now are a bit lower than the old Corrugated Iron. About 20mm. The rubbers on the screws are good for at least 30 years. No building would ever pass inspection here if the screws were in the channel. Not sure what the Gauge is but the sheeting is about .44mm with coating and made out of tensile steel.
Yes it needs to go over an existing flat substrate. Don't put it on open purlins and expect people to walk on it without damaging it. The thin stuff is for homes and such, not your typical prefab metal buildings.
Samuel, that is the video I will start working on next week. make sure to check out my newest video on how to start the first panel and trim it out on the rake edge. I should have it up by this weekend.
I'm a roof plumber here in Australia.. I truly think that you Americans could learn a lot about metal roofing from our tradesman. The majority of our roofs our tin,we have just about every climate imaginable and different solutions to suit them all. A good starting point would be not pan fixing sheets with screws.
@Mike M - You don't need a "waterproof roof" to install the corrugated metal roofing panels over. But if you're installing the panels over existing shingles then the manufacturer (Fabral) recommends putting a layer of felt paper or other similar material, and not installing the panels directly onto the shingles. Installation instructions: fabral.com/media/1229/pf-blue-book-7-15.pdf
I have corrugated galvalume metal panels that are about 25 to 30 years old (installed by previous owner so I don't know the date. I have been fighting leaks at fasteners a lot over the past couple years. When your remove the old screw the rubber washer is just dust. I have to use the next bigger size to help it get a grip. I've been replacing them a box at a time every time I get a new drip but it seems like an endless job, thousands and thousands of screws haha. The galvalume still looks brand new but has become so slippery you can barely get any traction at all.
Where do I start to help with more metal roofing information? The first point is that a standing seam roof is the best roof system as a return on your initial investment. Both the screwed down roof (SDR) and standing seam roof (SSR) have long lives but the SSR last longest because it is designed to expand and contract with the exposure to the sun. Some SDR roofs may have some ability to expand and contract if they have pre-punched slotted holes. I think the only company that offers this in a SDR system is Butler Manufacturing. They use pre-punched panels and roof structurals (purlins), a Scru-bolt with extra wide steel shoulder and rubber washer, and foam or rubber closure strips that match the panel corrugation. Their standard panel gauge for SDR is 26 ga. with 28 ga. also available and comes in aluminum-zinc coated galvanized steel or Kynar painted galvanized steel. Polyester painted panels are not recommended for roof panels on either SDR or SSR. The benefits of a SSR are longevity, no roof fastener penetrations, ability to expand and contract, and durability to high winds. Butler's standard SSR gauge is 24 ga. with 22 ga. also available and comes in aluminum-zinc coated galvanized steel or Kynar painted galvanized steel. The second point is that the success of either of these roof system depends on the flashing components engineered by the metal roofing manufacturer. The third point is that roof pitch is an important consideration in choosing any metal roof system. Here too, a SSR will out perform a SDR. A SSR requires at least a 1/4" in 12" roof slope. A SDR 1/2" in 12" roof slope. The steeper the roof, the better the roof will drain. Pretty simple concept. The last point is that the success of either of these two types of roof systems is heavily dependent upon the qualified installers familiar with the products and their application. For more information check the Butler Manufacturing web site because a picture is worth a thousand words.
No way I'm hiring a contractor when i am perfectly able to do the work myself Good gravy the cost of hiring a contractor almost always kills any chance of getting a project done with a sensible budget
@John Patriot eagle freedom boner depending on the job, it's quite stupid to hire a contractor. Especially if you're in a rural area. I'm not hiring a contractor or calling a plumber every time my roof has a leak or a pipe breaks. That's fucking stupid. There's some jobs that I won't touch but mindless monkey work I have no problem doing myself. Come arrest me IDGAF. I'm not going into debt so my family can take a shit
So you have a 10 ft brake, a roof panel machine to run the panels, ladders, etc..... Everything you need to do a quality job that will last and be covered by the manufacture? Seen so many that think it's so easy anyone can do it. Then after one good winter here in Colorado. They have leaks and damage to the interior.
Being in hurricane country of S. FL, when it came time to reroof, I went with a metal roof instead of shingles after seeing what held up and what didn't in the three hurricanes that hit me in 2004. Around me, metal roofs sustained only minor damages if any at all. Tiles and shingles become flying debris. The company I used said the corrugated metal held up better in high winds "IF" installed properly. Code called for screws every 8-10 inches; he installed them every 6 inches.
Thanks for explaining the differences. I had a large garage built 16 years ago and got corrugated metal put on it. I found 2 screws heads broken off during the first rainstorm (wasn't very happy). It was dark evergreen and has faded very bad, more like a lime green now. Occasionally when we get a heavy storm with high winds I've been on a ladder inside and the wind will push the water right over the corrugation overlap. Doesn't happen often and doesn't leak very much but it does happen. I believe Ill go with standing seam when the house roof gets replaced.
Seems kinda odd the way you said to attach the first set of panels when I installed the same metal panels on the roof of my pole barn the manufacturer said all screws should be placed through the raise part of the panels not the flat part like you did maybe that’s your problem.
This argument is as old as the panels themselves. Unless you have some sort of support system under the rib you can never get a screw to seal on the rib. No there isn't much water on the rib, so if you are ok with small leaks like you might be on a barn then that is the way to go, if you have drywall under the roof then you will be unhappy
Thanks everyone for all your comments. I respect your opinions and love reading them. There is lots of controversy over where the screws are to be installed in the multirib panel. We have used several manufacturers for this product and they all recommend the fastener pattern as described in the link below. I would have to agree that it would make the panel more water proof to screw in the high rib, but the I personally think that it would decrease the wind ratings substantially. Once again this is not just my opinion, it is what’s required from our manufacturers to have the proper warranties when installed. 4ce1y73cb6m21c5zrc4dz41o-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/Multi-Rib-and-R-Panel-Installation-Guide.pdf
Hi and thanks for the informative video. Yes, hidden fasteners are clearly better when it's an option$ We had 220 inches plus of rain a year where I lived, intense sun, wind, and hurricanes, therefore metal was installed on 99.999% of everything. Also, the majority of roofs where I lived did not have sheathing (leftover from plantation style construction and it's cheaper) so when it rains hard it's loud as hell. North Carolina gets hurricanes and snow, so yeah, metal is a great choice. We had some old steel with copper roofs (they had an oval-shaped logo on the underside Co... something for copper and steel from Pittsburgh, I think, I can't recall the exact name) it lasted 80 plus years and a 100 plus years with proper care in an area that had over 236 DAYS OR MORE A YEAR DAYS OF HELLISH RAIN, plus salt from the ocean and sulfur from the volcano in the air. Keep up the great work and continued success.
Not trying to be contentious, but just fyi. In Ontario Canada we call that ribbed roofing. Corrugated steel roofing has a wavy profile. Fasteners always go into the ribs to reduce leaks. To ensure maximum wind resistance, we use thick strapping or sheathing so fasteners don't pull. Your standing seam roofing looks great. Thanks for posting.
I've done two corrugated metal roofs myself. Cheap and holding up very well. Sure I may have to eventually replace rubber washers but its been 10 years and so far no leaks.
We have a standing seam roof system and love it... only criticism is that we get expansion noise that we can hear inside the house... notice the most with similar cloudy days when the sun hits the panel and then the sun disappears behind the cloud... expansive noise, but never leaks and looks great!
At 0:55 that roof sheeting if it was installed here in Australia with the fixing through the flat panel it would be condemned. We fix screws through the highest part of the sheet so there is never a chance of leaking even if the rubber washer perished over time.
I've never had satisfactorily explained to me why the standing seam roof is so much more costly than corrugated. What say you? I believe the price difference comes from the popularity of the standing seam. It actually looks less labor intensive than corrugated.
First, The material itself is different, it is thicker and has premium paint system compared to corrugated. The labor is double what corrugated is. The detail work of the trim is very labor intinsive. I have a few other videos showing this, maybe checkout the custom hems and z bar video
Here in Australia under the national plumbing code you cannot srew roof sheets down from within the tray, it can only screwed down from the top of the ridge on either side of the roofing sheet, the first example you showed would be wall cladding not roof decking, as Australian roof decking has hidden clips which are screwed to the roof before the decking is pushed onto it, something like the secound example
Your explained how the BOTTOM of the hidden fastener roof panel LOCKED under the Drip Edge but How does your 1st piece of ROOFING anchor on it's Leading / Beginning Edge ? ( on the LEFT)
There would be a hidden cleat installed on the facia board and a Z bar trim installed on the panel, then a custom rake trim with open hem locked in. Thanks for your question
@@SkywalkerRoofingCompany - Thanks for your REPLY - I would really to see that STARTER "hidden cleat" STARTER Strip 'Z-Bar' installed in a future VIDEO - Thanks again COOP ........................................
there is obvious some type of starter strip for the second type of roof.......would have been nice to see and be tutored on it. otherwise that was a good video.......g
Yes there is and it is called a Gable end cap, but even that will need to be screwed down, but even if it leaks it will be outside of the home on the overhang.
the trim that was at the bottom also goes up the gable but is bent to a 90 degree angle and panel is cut and folded so that it is hooked there also,if there are valleys ,valley cleat is used and panels still will hook in the valley ,there are many companies and individuals doing them now but few do them correctly
@@benth162 Those "Gable end caps" are ridiculously over-sized and UGLY! The rake up the gable simply needs a drip edge (just like the one at the eaves he showed) with the steel bent and hooked over it ! no cap, no screws and a fine looking edge!
Thank you for sharing this information. You definitely know what you are doing and it shows. I can see the value in the ribbed panels and I love that the fasteners are invisible. Do you service areas in the South?
Ready to continue the conversation? Luke Wilson sat down to respond to some of your questions and comments about proper fastening of corrugated metal here: bit.ly/screwsintheflats
we call those R panels.I've been erecting pre engineered metal steel building for 15 years.standing seam cost a lot more,takes longer to install but way better,but it still has exposed fasteners at the bottom and laps.you still have to know what your doing
I thought those seals were neoprene not rubber. neoprene should last considerably longer. you can set that screw gun for a specific torque and not over tighten OR under tighten the screws. Like any job, you have to pay attention to what you are doing. I'm 75 and I watch as each screw is driven. If you hire a druggy or a space cadet... good luck with leaks.
That would work if the wood was consistent. Sometimes there's knots. Other times u'll hit a truss or one truss will be higher than another. All of these things make a torque setting useless on a metal roof. 1/4" impact is the way to go. Just go by feel.
I have 2 36' x 48' barns and both leak. One is 26 years old and the other 16. They were installed by a contractor with nails that had a seal. Many seals eventually failed over the year and I have replaced them with the screw type fasteners. I live in the Cascade mountains of Central Oregon where temperatures can range from -32 in Winter to 102 in Summer which is hard on everything. The standing seam's initial cost maybe twice as much as corrugated but in the long run it is probably worth every penny because I am constantly trying to stop leaks in my corrugated roof. I found out too late however.
P.S. unless you're skilled in the trades , let a roofing contractor do the job . Back breaking work and there's a lot of trick of the trade.Remember the quality remains long after the price is forgotten.
I learned more in this short video than i have anywhere. thanks for sharing. I have the corrugated panels on my house. need to save my money for the standing seem panel. much better.
Ready to continue the conversation? Luke Wilson sat down to respond to some of your questions and comments about proper fastening of corrugated metal here: bit.ly/screwsintheflats
Interesting I knew those little rubber washers fail. I love the idea of the panels without exposed screws! Though in stead of nails I would preferably use screws to hold the panels down!
Most professional roofers follow proper procedure and screw into the ribs of the panel. I don't know why people put the screws where they will obviously leak when one washer fails after another. It is common knowledge in the industry not to put nails and screws in roofing products where water channels and sits.
Being a hidden screw doesn’t guarantee a leak free roof.nothing is 100 percent guarantee.and with all the 100 year rain events lately you never know.add into that a few inches of snow and anything is possible.
Yep, Tim you are right. I've seen old standing seam roofs over 100 years old. As long as they keep paint on it and it doesn't rust, It's there forever.
i like the corrugated as a diy guy, when its installed on top of roofing felt with plywood underneath i have seen it last, i have seen it installed on strapping with a plastic sheet and everyone has been trouble, the plastic, the plastic will sweat and drip into the house or shop, i have had to pull it off and lay plywood down, reuse the old metal with new screws and have to be fine.
Hi from New Zealand. We use corrugated a lot in N.Z. We call it 5 or 6 rib. When used on fences we screwed it as you showed to give a clean look, however on roofing jobs we only use 65mm galvanised screws through the center of the ridges to prevent water leaks. the screws have a neoprene rubber washer like yours. If put up correctly no reason it shouldn't last a hundred years. Best regards for the new year.
i used that kind of roofing in the philippines,but those screws are on the rib of the upper fold. and not on the flat areas..no rubber are used since water will not enter because its on the upper folds..
@Nomad Vagabond I have seen it installed that way everywhere. AS long as rubber washers are good, no leaks. I prefer the screws with the bonnet that totally covers the washer.
5 years? I've had my metal roof, with rubber washers, since 2002. I did make sure the screws were tightened perfectly though. Strangely, only one panel faded after 10 years, so I replaced it. It only took about an hour, and the screws and washers looked just fine. I am noticing some fading on the other panels now, but no rust, so I'm fine with it. Best and cheapest roof I've ever had.
@@JT-qf4it … Australia is the spiritual home of corrugated metal roofing and we DO NOT screw through the tray.... NEVER!!!.... qldsheetmetal.com.au/about-us/installation-maintenance/roofing-installation-guide/
mark jar , not only that , it would seem like they forgot their promise to do their best to reply to all the comments . their best just is not good enough when it comes to replies lol . just joking . i do like their standing seam metal roofing though :))
Everyone keeps calling me "Stone Cold"! You're gonna make my head swell...lol! Life expectancy for a corrugated metal roof with rubber washer screws would be approximately 25 years and that's on the high side. Life expectancy for a standing seam metal roof with no exposed fasteners should easily last 80+ years if you maintained the paint.
Whats under the metal, any backing material? My house has shingles, and I have had to black jack where nails pop up because they were inbetween boards and worked there way up.
I have be in the metal building business over 40 years , roof panels up to 70 feet long . 100,000 sq ft and larger buildings ,
All types of panels up to 8 inch thick foam sandwitch end between metal .
This is a excellent demo video , this man knows what he is talking about a true Professional👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸
Not bad for an introductory video, especially the comments about knowing what one is doing with trim and cracking due to expansion and contraction with panels that are forced.
The clutch setting on the drill was too high and the angle of the driven screw was, in some cases, off perpendicular. The type of washer above the screw gasket is also important. I like the more cupped ones. They prevent total compression and torn neoprene gasket.
I live in Greece and I have just installed a metal roof consisting of two sheets of galvanized enameled metal with about 4 inches of foam in between. It is not straight but shaped to look like ceramic tiles. It is one continuous length from top to edge. I had lots of grief from the previous tile roof due to little pitch and I hope this one will be way better. Some what pricey, I hope it's worth it.
@@wisconsinfarmer4742 Agreed, it didn't even look like he was using the clutch on the drill. IT should never be torqueing your wrist with every screw. The clutch setting should compress the washer some, but not too much.
Got a corrugated galvanized roof put on 1980. Back then we used neoprene washered roofing nails nailed into the elevated ribs not on the flats. Neoprene is still holding up and no leaks. I’ve painted the roof once with aluminum paint to stop a small amount of rust that started appearing around the 25 year mark. Not bad for 40 years in upstate New York weather. I am sure I would be on my third roof with shingles
@Joseph .. that's a great point that I also had just made in a comment. The fastening is to be done on the raised portion of the corrugated panel. That's something taught for the simple reason of physics. There is much greater flow of water going over those fasteners on the flats than there is on a corrugated rise. Kudos to you
I've put installed a few corrugated roofs & that is exactly right. They never leak enough to cause damage if the nails are on the tops of the ridges. You can even have some nails back out a bit and they won't leak at all.
@@fljetgator1833 wrong sir, the high rib doesn't have the proper receiving space to allow the gasketed screw to seat properly.
That was when people used common sense on where to put the nails or screws.
Put on a corrugated roof in 1980. Some nails started backing out last year. Wood underneath was excellent. I replaced with screws and expect roof and metal to last a lot longer than me.
Just found your channel. I’ve have learned more in this 7 minute video than in the past year watching others. You are direct and to the point and for that I am thankful !
Ready to continue the conversation? Luke Wilson sat down to respond to some of your questions and comments about proper fastening of corrugated metal here: bit.ly/screwsintheflats
I've roofed since 1974,
I do Inspections and repairs these days.
I cannot stand roofing videos on RUclips,
But my response is to applaud you for your presentation,
Very well done and you are in my thoughts, a Professional!! Hands Down, well done Brother.
I enjoyed this ☮️☀️👈🏽
Lee Richards
You beat me. I just retired after 30 years swing a mop and doing repairs for the last 4 .
Started on Derbigum.
You got me beat...28yrs retired from tile installation
Applaud what?.... The fact he has no idea!... With metal roofing you NEVER screw through the tray... Only ever fix through the high ribs of the sheets!!…. Obviously American's don't use a lot of metal sheet roofing... qldsheetmetal.com.au/about-us/installation-maintenance/roofing-installation-guide/
@@gabrielbarnes251 That is what I thought!
@@gabrielbarnes251 Back when we used nails for attaching metal panels, we always put them on the ridges. But when they came out with the screws, we started putting them on the flat because that was recommended by the manufacturers.
GOOD SHOW, installed a "GALVALUME" corrugated panel roof in 2009 and placed screws only in the high spots, tops of the panel's peaks to prevent / limit leaks. No leaks yet . THANKS Standing seam seems like the better choice because there are NO EXPOSED SCREWS. I also used acrylic roof cement caulking at entry points of the screws for added seal... The proof is in the missing ceiling stains, NO LEAKS is what it's all about.
I did exactly what you're talking about on my roof (installing screws at the top of the ribs instead of in the flat surface) back in 1991. I used 26 gauge metal, desert tan in color, 12/12 pitch 44 squares with valleys and no one has been on that roof since I put it on and i have never had an issue one.
hope mine lasts as long. TRIED galvalume , if memory is correct, it's a mix of left over scraps of aluminum, galvanize and metal. melted & pressed, whatever they do to make it,,, ? . NO RUST found yet, stays reflective .
I trust what the narrated says in this video. He has a straight forward honest personality. You've convinced me to install a striated standing seam metal roof.
Thank you for your kind feedback!!
When I install these metal roofs with gasketed screws, I use a screw gun with a clutch set correctly, as not to overdrive the screw, blowing out the gasket. Lastly, I use an appropriate colored Geoseal tripolymer sealant bead over EVERY, screwhead, EVERY screwhead. In 35 years, I've never had a callback for a leak. Only call back, was for when a huge oak fell on their home, to redo their section damaged with new metal. Good day, sir.
Sounds great, good job
Good tip on putting polymer sealant on each screw head
You are the type of installer i'd like to find to do a metal roof
We have had this type of roofing, we call it V-crimp, corrugated is different in Australia over 60-70 years, we screw in the hill not valleys stops leaks.
@Nomad Vagabond Yes
And one has to careful of how the screw compresses the rib, spreading it out and causing a misfit.
Yes..screwing the valley of the product is not the correct procedure...I don't know why people started doing it that way but warranties will be voided through most manufactures unless the screws are in the raised ribs.
@pijnto Since when were the ribs called hill?
Good video! I’ve been telling people these same things for years! The corrugated panel was designed for agricultural use and should have stayed there! If you want metal on your house, use the standing seam. I wish that he had talked about the anti-siphon rib on the corrugated panel and the proper way that it should be installed. It’s unbelievable how many of the corrugated panels are installed incorrectly with the panels not lapped correctly. Good job, young Skywalker!
My house was built with shingles 40 years ago. In ten years they showed signs of stress & deterioration, lots of wing here. My nephew put a corrugated steel roof over it and 30 years later it looks about the same as the day it was done. That standing seam stuff is really nice, but very expensive.
Sorry for the late response. Love your comment. You are exactly right, I see that all the time also. That small channel is designed to carry water down if it ever finds its way over the rib.
Great Summary. Standing Seam is a great roof. Clean and environmentally friendly. We have it on our building in an historic area, serves the sentiment and flavor of the area. But more importantly, its a roof that will last, kinda important when you have solar panels mounted on top of it.
Does having nails in the metal roof to hold down solar panels cause any leaks or other issues?
@@jjf609 Solar can be attached to standing seam with no penetrations.
I'm planning on a metal roof and Luke described this in a way that even I can understand. Straight Talk. This video made me a bit more wiser and knowledgeable to make Better decisions! Thanks Luke!
Thanks for your kind comment, please dont hesitate to message me after you start getting quotes. I'll be glad to offer advice.
I helped a friend at work build a 30x60 foot log house between 2000-2002. The roof peak was 21 feet above the slab, with a 40 degree pitch. We installed 19 foot-long red corrugated panels...took several days. I often wondered about the rubber washers and their lifetime before failing. The standing seam is a far superior design, taking the washer failure possibility out of the question. Great video.
you mean an 8\12 pitch?
We also use drip edge up the rake and fold over like you did on the eve. We use the Malco edge roller. If you don't want oil canning on the flat panels run half inch foam backer cord underneath the center of the panel vertically.
This fella here is right I have a friend that has a metal roof on his house, and he had a leak shortly after installation from a contractor that he knew.
I met my friend years later with him asking me to find his leak.
It had taken me three tries to find the leak.
Here they never put a sealer down each length of a valley, and a lot of other work that this contractor had done wasn't done correctly.
We have been slowly making things right for him.
Good video , I'm a retired roofer and have laid thousands of sq. feet of metal roofing. Nice presentation
Me to and I agree good presentation. I did mostly slate and tile though.
if you laid it like he has, then there are 1000's of square feet of metal roof fixed incorrectly and guaranteed to leak … qldsheetmetal.com.au/about-us/installation-maintenance/roofing-installation-guide/
I just had a metal roof put on mine here in SW Florida and I see what he is saying about the rubber washers possibly degrading over time. I may up there replacing a thousand of them myself in 5 years. Lol
@@gabrielbarnes251 I agree, on corrugated roofs, the screws must go in on the crests, not the troughs. Even if there are no rubbers, it won't leak.
Gabriel Barnes TY,,,,,,,,,, !
This guys is as clean as they come. Sad too think that no one knows this stuff . But he's got it down, and it's worth learning.
Thank you so much for this kind comment!!!!
Thanks for the great video Luke.
I installed that same standing seam metal on over 40 squares of roofing on my own home. It was very, very time consuming. I love the finished look but I hate trying to clean it. I have yet to find a shoe that will stick to a wet metal surface and it is very hard to wash from standing on a ladder. Not to mention the huge difference in cost over that of a high grade of shingle. I spent more than $12,000 on the metal materials alone. If I knew then what I know now, I probably wouldn't have done it.
pj, check out www.cougarpaws.com/products/steelwalker-boot these boots have magnets in the soul and work pretty well. Also there are tons of safety anchor points you can attach to the rib of the standing seam permanently so when you're up there you can tie off.
Thank you for the video which I found informative.
Metal residential roofing, in most Australian applications, is often referred to as "corrugated iron". There is a wider range of profiles available for residential, commercial and industrial applications. Other roofing materials are normally clay or cement roofing tiles. Shingles are very rarely used.
In the metal application, the metal fixing screw, with its included sealing washer, is placed in the raised arch/ridge of the corrugated roofing panel while being careful not to overdrive the fixing screw. Much easier these days with clutched drills and drivers. In this way, the water and most debris runs down the roof in the valleys of the panel and away from the raised section through which the screws are fastened. In times past metal-clad rooves were often nailed. Many of these rooves have had the nails replaced with screws, and remained otherwise intact and serviceable. I notice that some guides make the distinction between 1. wall applications - fixings in valleys, and 2. roof applications - fixings through the arch/ridge top of roofing material, as placed.
We agree that the standing seam product, with its fixing underneath the cladding, is the better option of the two. However, the cost of a standing seam, full roof installation can be a deal-breaker for some residential clients considering both products. On the other hand, the cottage in which I live was built in the 1940s decade. With five-yearly inspections, as I believe, is the least that should be done on any roofing system, the corrugated iron roof has stood up well. If the screw fixings had been placed in the valleys of the panels, as I have seen on rooves that have deteriorated with leaks, I doubt that my roof would have stood up as well over those 80 odd years.
Other comments, on this site, note that the quality of the work is, as is the case here in Australia, dependent on the skills of the contractor and their team.
I like the use of plywood/OSB underlayment, wraps and insulation in American applications and the tendency toward a fully encapsulated, conditioned envelope. With the additions of underlayments, wraps and solid insulation materials, however, I think that many problems may not become apparent for years after the primary cause of the problems commenced. It is probably true that the fewer materials placed between the external roof cladding and the ceiling mean that any problems with the cladding are likely to be identified and corrected more quickly.
We, in Australia, are also catching up, I believe, on the "passive house" applications and principles", partly because of changes in lifestyle. We are now tending to live and entertain more inside than in the past.
Your video regarding the queries presented about the placement of fixings on metal rooves is interesting and I have added a note there as well.
Cheers, Peter
PNH 6000 yes - he is incorrectly driving the screws on the flat. Don’t hire this guy.
Sure I would put a roof on a tractor shed myself but when it comes to my home with a roof full of hips and valleys and skylights and all sorts of protrusions to flash around I wouldn’t have a clue. That’s what these guys are for.
i had no idea there was such a difference ,,, thank you
No
I did a roof with a similar 3’ wide product called Norclad here in Alaska.i did the roof and lived there for 30 years with no problems. My new house has standing seam roof.
That was an excellent video. I have used the first type of metal roofing on my storage shed. I will use the 2nd type of metal roofing when it is time to do my roof on my house.
kermitefrog64 you do know that the standing seam can triple the price? I thought I was too one time until I checked the price. Suddenly the 29 gauge R-9 panel looked just fine to me.
I used to do metal roofing when I was young. 2 yrs ago my Wife and I had to put a New roof on our house after storm damage our contractor baled on us so we did it ourselves in 110 degree temps. Anybody can get the job done. But believe me you better do your homework and understand what your doing.
Standing seam... is incredible looking, the zinclock one is great to work with and the finish is superior....
Fabrel standing seam on a fairly complex gambrel /doghouse dormered home. Did all the work myself 23 YEARS ago. Some fading but going STRONG!
Sounds like fun! Bet it felt good to cross that one off your list.
You're the Man!
STILL going strong. Faded paint (a little) hopefully it will last the next 35 years.
@@lcvt8023 sa 5e2
Wow. I am engineer and have lived in houses w asphalt shingles roofs these go 10 to 15 years. This is way to go impressive.
When I watch RUclips videos about abandoned houses most with metal roofs are in good shape while the ones that have shingles are falling down from water damage.
The houses are gone, barn still standing. That right there says some thing about a good roof!
We had storm damage about five years ago that ruined our tile roof, and the insurance payout allowed me to afford a standing seam roof. The company had a machine that roiled the panels on site and the results are awesome. Ours have a diamond pattern in them which I guess is for the oil-canning problem but it isn't noticeable from the ground. Other houses in our neighborhood put new tile roofs on and they already look like crap with all of the black fungus. Metal is the way to go if you can afford it.
Thank your explaining the difference in metal roofing.
Ready to continue the conversation? Luke Wilson sat down to respond to some of your questions and comments about proper fastening of corrugated metal here: bit.ly/screwsintheflats
On the second style of panels, I wish you did a close up on the overlap end, of the standing seam to see how it seals .
Now I have watched a bunch of videos. Trying to learn and decide the best way for me to tackle my own project roof. Your video was good and helpful.
Thank you, for that!
But in most 98% of the videos yours included. No one seems to be addressing "the bullions?" The wood spacers attached to the roof deck on existing without tear off.
I opted for .75 or 3/4" as I could run a bunch of 2x4s and 2x6son my table saw to give the largest yield as it was also what I had and bunch of scraps of. A few new but not a lot. 😉 22squares on 24"oc with 2 rows on the top and bottom edges at 9"oc. Its what worked for me. Total of 12 rows front and back hip roof.
Anyways, the best way to keep your roof deck dry and free from rot is to make sure you have an air gap. FACT!!!! "So IMPORTANT" THE ABILITY TO LET IT DRY IF YOU EVER DID HAVE A SCREW WASHER FAIL OR WATER intrusion. not to mention condensation issues with metal sweating. I believe that's why you all recommend synthetic Over Felt paper.....
I get it helps with noise a lot being pressed up against the deck. It limits vibration. But it's totally screws any kind of Energy Efficiency that you may have had from reflective material. When pressed against the deck with no air gap even ASHARE only gives you a tiny decimal R-value.
But I installed thermal shield on the underside of the decking some years ago. With a 3.5" air gap and WOW what a difference! 50 degrees on my 1 story home and 65 degrees on my 2 story barn.
Anyways, I digress. You only mentioned corrugated roofing 29 gauge minimal. Which I appreciate it that's what I'm using. So much science and very few talk about it... Mmmmm
Tim, thanks a lot. Let me know if I can help in any way.
I live in northern WI and we get lots of snow. I live in a log home and I replaced the roof several years ago. I would not go with steel for two reasons. 1) The snow falls off steel. I don't want feet of snow falling off and laying against the home. Snow remaining against logs is not good. 2) Because snow falls off, you can't have gutters. At least that's what I'm told. If a log home doesn't have good roof water management, you will have log decay, especially at the corner ends.
When I bought the home (at a very good price) it had an old asphalt roof and no gutters. It cost me $13,000 to have a log restoration company replace several rotted ends at some corners. I replaced the roof and added gutters. No more rotting wood. Life is good. In fall I have to keep leaves out of the gutters. My Stihl backpack blower and custom 2" PVC extensions and ells make that quick work.
My pole barn built a few years ago has ribbed like this man's first example. It will be fine for many years.
that is what snow birds are for.
My neighbor had a metal roof installed and it was standing seam. The company that did it had its own machine that did all the roof forming. It looks great, would love a metal roof but its out of my pay grade. Looks great.
If you can go the price you’ll never do it again so it pays in the long run.once and done.that stuff will last a lifetime even longer.
Very professional video. Easy to understand, especially by contractors, who do quality work.
Garages or sheds, if you have access for inspection. Also siding. I had 1 leaking screw in a pan and it took 3 tries to deal it. For a house i will only use standing seam.
Excellent video - I am moving to snowy New Hampshire soon & after watching I believe the seam metal roof is the way to go.
Ready to continue the conversation? Luke Wilson sat down to respond to some of your questions and comments about proper fastening of corrugated metal here: bit.ly/screwsintheflats
Interesting
First time I have ever seen the fixings go into the pan of a profile. Been contracting for 51 years
We in NZ fix through the ridge of the profile. The sealing washers are subjective to fixing and warranty
Here we have to give a 15 year guarantee. All materials to be a 50 year life span
I think because we are in New Zealand 🇳🇿 we are upside-down to America. As I screw the rib on the roof, but pan for wall cladding. Very interesting
@@sarush1204 You're not upside down. Every farm home around me, nearly 17 including my own home, every panel is screwed at the ridge and not the valley. Every home that I have seen with metal roofing in the states, all have the screws at the ridge, unless it is a standing seam roof. My uncle has done roofing for 39 years, and he always said, if you put a screw in the valley, that will be the first place that will leak when it does because your run off is through the valley. If you get it in the ridge, no leaks and less deterioration of the rubber washer.
@@Sandman1832 I think I need to make some kiwi (new Zealander) style roof vids 🤙
@@sarush1204 Haha, I would watch kiwi videos. Kiwis definitely know how to have a good time. 2 of my sons are out your way for college, Australia right now. They have wanted to be Marine Biologists since they were wee kids, so I am funding their adventure as long as they keep their grades good. I hear that they will be going to New Zealand in April, going to the smaller islands and staying in Auckland for a while. If this covid bollocks would ever end, I would go for a visit. Only been to New Zealand once, and that was 3 1/2 years ago with my mate Travis Pastrana. Did a few shows there with Nitro Circus in Christchurch, Blenheim, Auckland and Kensington. Had a great time, but I absolutely DESPISE the bloody flight though. Longest flight in my entire life.
Check out this link to see why we always install the corrugated metal this way. ruclips.net/video/nGN9OLmySWQ/видео.html
Great tips and I love the old style snap-on panels those will be around when we're long gone, most of all I love that all the fasteners are hidden
So true!
Thoroughly enjoyed listening to your video.
Thanks Richard
Agree Richard, and that music is on point, too.
How come snap lock instead of double lock seams on the standing seams? Work with my son in VT and we have always used double lock 24 gauge. Glad you pointed out how it is hemmed at the bottom. We also hem it on the rake edges too.
that music was so beautiful, I want to cry !
Time for a testosterone patch...
better yet a patch of hair pie !
Awwww, Heres a tissue 😂 sniff sniff...
@@mssburr is noob nnt
@@jckay5087 nynyh
Makes sense about the screw washers. The same principle applies to the rubber pipe boots used to seal the pvc vent pipes protruding from residential roofs. My experience is that those need to be replaced two to three times over the life of an asphalt roof because they crack and water works into the crack and underneath the roofing material, or down the pipe and into the interior ceilings.
My brother had this kind of roof on his house, it worked flawlessly untill a tree whacked his roof. The house insurance had to reroof the whole house because there was no way to match up the colour. **** important factor with this roofing*** It is completely re-usable. I have had it on my roof for ten years and there is nothing wrong with it. There are no holes through the roofing material that need to be lined up. It clips apart and together like it was new. My roof was a lot smaller so I had lots of material. Free roofing that will last my lifetime.
I have trust issues with the lock type metal. We live in harsher times with weather events but it does look nicer just has me a bit worried since my home is in an area where we see above average storms with strong winds. Now i can personally vouch for 24ga metal roofs standing up to hurricane katrina with zero damage to roof. All we had was a little metal corner pushed up
The 24 ga standing seam usually carries a 140 mph wind guarantee with a no dent guarantee for up to 2 1/2'' hail....IF I'm remembering correctly.
You never showed the gable trim ? how do seal the last piece if you cut the hump off .
We had a bad experience with the corrugated panels - we call it ProPanel out here (Colo). When we bought our house, the inspector didn't check the roof because it had snowed the night before and, when the snow melted, there were screws backed out everywhere due to what I can only believe was a budget build. What a mess - if you look to buy a house with ProPanel roofing - cavet emptor...
Awesome video, thanks much!
Thanks for your comment. I agree!!!
I’m homesteading in the Ozarks and building a home. I liked that second metal!
Central States manufacturing has the best panel system in the Ozarks. But Menards has a pretty decent one too. I live in Wheatland Missouri.
I've never seen a metal panel roof fastened through the flats. That's asking for the trouble with washer sealing he describes.
The I've only seen fasteners go in the crown which keeps them up out of the water flow, and the crown has some flex to give any over-seating a little forgiveness. (plus you'd always test the substrate resistance and set the proper clutch level [-1 notch for momentum] to avoid over-seating.)
Nothing worse than overdriven screws in the rib. Most roofs fail at improperly installed flashing by mechanics that don't know that water runs downhill.
All manufactures of metal roofing panels suggest putting the screws in the flats of the panels. Check out the websites of Metal Sales Manufacturing, Central States manufacturing, American Building products just to name a few.
@@bobswoger3681 Good to know.
I was going to say same.
@@matt89447 You should use an impact driver and not a drill! And I think you should use strapping and not attach directorly to the sheathing.
Like others have mentioned here, the screws on the corrugated roofing should be installed on the high points of the panels not on the flats for roofing. Panels used in the interior like in garages screwing on the flats is fine. The roof panels can easily be pre-drilled on the ground, slightly smaller than the screw itself which also allows a nice consistent layout and nice finished appearance. I’ve been installing corrugated roofing for decades and have had zero issues even through PA winters.
No, you don't pre-drill any holes into the corrugated metal roofing panels; the screws/fasteners easily penetrate the roof panels and pre-drilling holes in the panels is not recommended.
Even though the screws have a rubberized washer I always put a dab of silicone and screw through the silicone dab to avoid any possibility of leaks. And I use a typical modern drill driver with an adjustable torque to avoid overdriving the screws in too deeply.
Fabral, the manufacturer of the corrugated metal roofing panels in the video has detailed installation instructions:
fabral.com/media/1229/pf-blue-book-7-15.pdf
Ashley Hussin not recommend why exactly? I’m all ears.
If you’ve ever been on a roof pushing the self drilling screws through the HIGH POINTS of the corrugated roofing you’d understand it’s very easy to slide off the rib and scratch the finish up. You simply drill slightly smaller than the screw on the ground. Safer for the finish, safer and easier for the installers on the roof.
I’ve been working with corrugated roofing for close to 30 years and have yet to see someone using silicone on these roofing screws. Do you know how time consuming and messy that could be? If you’re installing thousands of square feet of roofing on a job that would be absolutely ridiculous! We’ve installed on all kinds of buildings and varying pitches and have had ZERO issues without silicone and pre-drilling.
@@TheMentch171 - Why? Because pre-drilling all the holes in the panels is unnecessary, I suppose. I just gave you a link to the manufacturer's installation guide and they don't say it's required. You're "all ears" but no eyes apparently.
And you're needlessly pre-drilling all the holes in the panels and then you btch that putting silicone before driving the screws to prevent the possibility of any leaks is too much work!
I'm not gonna waste my time in a pointless argument with an expert RUclips roofer who's too lazy to read the link I provided, so buh-bye.
Ashley Hussin no don’t waste your time because you’re wrong. Obviously all you know is what you watch and read, no experience. Certainly not 30 years experience and working with co-workers with much more than that.
Im not an expert RUclips roofer I’m a very experienced building contractor. So as you say bye bye.
Ashley Hussin oh and a little tip in case you actually go and install a substantial amount of roofing ever, stack your panels on sawhorses on the ground, get a proper layout for the screw pattern, mark the top sheet and drill multiple/many/maybe even all the panels at once. That saves a ton of time. It makes the layout perfect and ready for the people on the roof too.
I appreciate the professional VO. Makes a difference in the professional feel! Nice job
You would be WAY ahead to put the screws on top of the Ridges, that way only a direct hit from a rain drop would even have a chance of leaking. Top of ridges screws also hold the metal together more (Just use 3/4" longer screws.. like 2" , you should also paint screw head and washer. 2. over driving the screw will also make a circle of rust around where it hit the roof metal. 3. There is also 24 gauge metal panels in corrugate avail if you look for it. 29 gauge will "oil pan" and look bad from road.
Check out this link to see why we always install the corrugated metal this way. ruclips.net/video/nGN9OLmySWQ/видео.html
Fantastic information and quality work!!
Sorry that should not be 29 ga. metal. We would hope that it is 26 ga., which is the thinnest that should be used on a roof as far as we are concerned. This may have been just a misspoke number, but if they are truly using 29 ga. don't buy it, because it is too thin to be used on a roof unless they apply it over an underlayment of at least 5/8" plywood, or if on a home, over 1x4" skip sheeting that has a moisture barrier applied. If that roofing is being screwed to Perlins you need even thicker metal such as 26ga. or even 24ga. You see how they have screwed down that panel in what are called the valleys? that is not suitable for homes, unless the plywood is covered by 20 lb. felt tar paper as well as a moisture barrier, for durability.
Also that wide of a panel will expand and shrink more than the old standard of two foot wide panels of the same style, which he states may cause the screws to work their way out. If you plan on screwing these types of panels down on the ridges which means using longer screws, you will also find that they'll work their way out faster on those wider panels because of the expansion and contraction on that wide of the metal. Because of what he states about the life of that rubber washer, it may not be advisable to use that system on a home, and is more suited for roofing on out-building or garages.
34 years ago while working at a company call Champion Metal, we help the engineer we worked with, to design that standing rib snap together type of panel. He made the roll forming machine we used to make that standing rib. The tolerances were very tight because that snap edge is only about 1/8" which forces the panel to run through the machine with literally no side to side movement.
That standing rib also has issues such as when you snap that panel down it will actually scrape the paint off and possibly even the galvanized coating leaving the bare steel subject to rust, but it is still the better of the two types of panels. Considering how he applied that standing seam panel would not work because we have actually put up panels which were a minimum of 20' long for an old barn roof. You'd have to snap the panel down and use a tool to crimp that lip up under the drip edge. If you live in snow country that standing rib is the one to use as it will allow the snow to slide off with minimal effort. Some counties will not allow you to put on a Comp roof shingle in snow country, because a wet snow may cause your roof to collapse if you don't get up there and push the snow off every time it snows.
We have used Metal sheeting in Australia forever. Sheets of that style are rolled with about 25mm Ribs closer together. They cover about 763mm 2'6" .
Today most roofs have gone back to what we call Custom Orb style. The same as old style Corrugated metal sheeting. Fashion more than anything. The ribs now are a bit lower than the old Corrugated Iron. About 20mm.
The rubbers on the screws are good for at least 30 years. No building would ever pass inspection here if the screws were in the channel.
Not sure what the Gauge is but the sheeting is about .44mm with coating and made out of tensile steel.
Rumple Stiltskin ,'
Yes it needs to go over an existing flat substrate. Don't put it on open purlins and expect people to walk on it without damaging it. The thin stuff is for homes and such, not your typical prefab metal buildings.
Please show me how it goes around the chimney and skylight
Samuel, that is the video I will start working on next week. make sure to check out my newest video on how to start the first panel and trim it out on the rake edge. I should have it up by this weekend.
You forgot the most important part. A high temperature self adhering waterproofing membrane is advised.
gary2475
Superb, exactly as a roof should be done to keep it water tight 👍
I'm a roof plumber here in Australia..
I truly think that you Americans could learn a lot about metal roofing from our tradesman.
The majority of our roofs our tin,we have just about every climate imaginable and different solutions to suit them all.
A good starting point would be not pan fixing sheets with screws.
What's a roof plumber?
A little about prepping the roof before installing metal like the part where you need a water proof roof before installing metal.
I was thinking the same . heavy 40# felt at the very least. a coat of snow seal is best .
@Mike M - You don't need a "waterproof roof" to install the corrugated metal roofing panels over. But if you're installing the panels over existing shingles then the manufacturer (Fabral) recommends putting a layer of felt paper or other similar material, and not installing the panels directly onto the shingles.
Installation instructions: fabral.com/media/1229/pf-blue-book-7-15.pdf
The average dog is a nicer person than the average person
dog persons life's matter
I have corrugated galvalume metal panels that are about 25 to 30 years old (installed by previous owner so I don't know the date. I have been fighting leaks at fasteners a lot over the past couple years. When your remove the old screw the rubber washer is just dust. I have to use the next bigger size to help it get a grip. I've been replacing them a box at a time every time I get a new drip but it seems like an endless job, thousands and thousands of screws haha. The galvalume still looks brand new but has become so slippery you can barely get any traction at all.
Great video, do you recommend drilling 5/32 pilot hole to allow for expansion and contraction?
Where do I start to help with more metal roofing information? The first point is that a standing seam roof is the best roof system as a return on your initial investment. Both the screwed down roof (SDR) and standing seam roof (SSR) have long lives but the SSR last longest because it is designed to expand and contract with the exposure to the sun. Some SDR roofs may have some ability to expand and contract if they have pre-punched slotted holes. I think the only company that offers this in a SDR system is Butler Manufacturing. They use pre-punched panels and roof structurals (purlins), a Scru-bolt with extra wide steel shoulder and rubber washer, and foam or rubber closure strips that match the panel corrugation. Their standard panel gauge for SDR is 26 ga. with 28 ga. also available and comes in aluminum-zinc coated galvanized steel or Kynar painted galvanized steel. Polyester painted panels are not recommended for roof panels on either SDR or SSR. The benefits of a SSR are longevity, no roof fastener penetrations, ability to expand and contract, and durability to high winds. Butler's standard SSR gauge is 24 ga. with 22 ga. also available and comes in aluminum-zinc coated galvanized steel or Kynar painted galvanized steel. The second point is that the success of either of these roof system depends on the flashing components engineered by the metal roofing manufacturer. The third point is that roof pitch is an important consideration in choosing any metal roof system. Here too, a SSR will out perform a SDR. A SSR requires at least a 1/4" in 12" roof slope. A SDR 1/2" in 12" roof slope. The steeper the roof, the better the roof will drain. Pretty simple concept. The last point is that the success of either of these two types of roof systems is heavily dependent upon the qualified installers familiar with the products and their application. For more information check the Butler Manufacturing web site because a picture is worth a thousand words.
No way I'm hiring a contractor when i am perfectly able to do the work myself
Good gravy the cost of hiring a contractor almost always kills any chance of getting a project done with a sensible budget
Do you do permits? Inspections?
If they went over budget..
You hired the wrong person
@John Patriot eagle freedom boner depending on the job, it's quite stupid to hire a contractor. Especially if you're in a rural area. I'm not hiring a contractor or calling a plumber every time my roof has a leak or a pipe breaks. That's fucking stupid. There's some jobs that I won't touch but mindless monkey work I have no problem doing myself. Come arrest me IDGAF. I'm not going into debt so my family can take a shit
So you have a 10 ft brake, a roof panel machine to run the panels, ladders, etc..... Everything you need to do a quality job that will last and be covered by the manufacture? Seen so many that think it's so easy anyone can do it. Then after one good winter here in Colorado. They have leaks and damage to the interior.
@@AnthonyBrusca You know he don't. He's a fly by night working out of the back of a pickup.
Very interesting video with great info!!!
Thanks Roberto
Being in hurricane country of S. FL, when it came time to reroof, I went with a metal roof instead of shingles after seeing what held up and what didn't in the three hurricanes that hit me in 2004. Around me, metal roofs sustained only minor damages if any at all. Tiles and shingles become flying debris.
The company I used said the corrugated metal held up better in high winds "IF" installed properly. Code called for screws every 8-10 inches; he installed them every 6 inches.
Thanks for explaining the differences. I had a large garage built 16 years ago and got corrugated metal put on it. I found 2 screws heads broken off during the first rainstorm (wasn't very happy). It was dark evergreen and has faded very bad, more like a lime green now. Occasionally when we get a heavy storm with high winds I've been on a ladder inside and the wind will push the water right over the corrugation overlap. Doesn't happen often and doesn't leak very much but it does happen. I believe Ill go with standing seam when the house roof gets replaced.
That will be a great decision to go that route when you replace it. Let me know if you have any questions when you start the quote process.
Seems kinda odd the way you said to attach the first set of panels when I installed the same metal panels on the roof of my pole barn the manufacturer said all screws should be placed through the raise part of the panels not the flat part like you did maybe that’s your problem.
brad willingham bud the screws aren’t even long enough to reach through the seem. Or are you referring to the slight raised bend? That I’m cool with.
This argument is as old as the panels themselves. Unless you have some sort of support system under the rib you can never get a screw to seal on the rib. No there isn't much water on the rib, so if you are ok with small leaks like you might be on a barn then that is the way to go, if you have drywall under the roof then you will be unhappy
Good information, thank you for producing this video
Thank you for your comment!!!
Thanks everyone for all your comments. I respect your opinions and love reading them. There is lots of controversy over where the screws are to be installed in the multirib panel. We have used several manufacturers for this product and they all recommend the fastener pattern as described in the link below. I would have to agree that it would make the panel more water proof to screw in the high rib, but the I personally think that it would decrease the wind ratings substantially. Once again this is not just my opinion, it is what’s required from our manufacturers to have the proper warranties when installed. 4ce1y73cb6m21c5zrc4dz41o-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/Multi-Rib-and-R-Panel-Installation-Guide.pdf
Hi and thanks for the informative video. Yes, hidden fasteners are clearly better when it's an option$ We had 220 inches plus of rain a year where I lived, intense sun, wind, and hurricanes, therefore metal was installed on 99.999% of everything. Also, the majority of roofs where I lived did not have sheathing (leftover from plantation style construction and it's cheaper) so when it rains hard it's loud as hell. North Carolina gets hurricanes and snow, so yeah, metal is a great choice. We had some old steel with copper roofs (they had an oval-shaped logo on the underside Co... something for copper and steel from Pittsburgh, I think, I can't recall the exact name) it lasted 80 plus years and a 100 plus years with proper care in an area that had over 236 DAYS OR MORE A YEAR DAYS OF HELLISH RAIN, plus salt from the ocean and sulfur from the volcano in the air. Keep up the great work and continued success.
Not trying to be contentious, but just fyi. In Ontario Canada we call that ribbed roofing. Corrugated steel roofing has a wavy profile. Fasteners always go into the ribs to reduce leaks. To ensure maximum wind resistance, we use thick strapping or sheathing so fasteners don't pull. Your standing seam roofing looks great. Thanks for posting.
i live in northeast florida (Jacksonville area ). How would I find a roofing contractor in my area that would do a good job?
I've done two corrugated metal roofs myself. Cheap and holding up very well. Sure I may have to eventually replace rubber washers but its been 10 years and so far no leaks.
I put some metal roofs on with the screws in the valleys over 25 years ago and they don't have any leaks and haven't had to replace the washers.
In Australia we've been using corrugated metal roofing for decades !!!
Vermont too.
..Not sure what country this guys roofing in.
We have a standing seam roof system and love it... only criticism is that we get expansion noise that we can hear inside the house... notice the most with similar cloudy days when the sun hits the panel and then the sun disappears behind the cloud... expansive noise, but never leaks and looks great!
Glad to hear you're happy with your roof. The metal does have to move when the temperature changes, and is a common criticism.
At 0:55 that roof sheeting if it was installed here in Australia with the fixing through the flat panel it would be condemned. We fix screws through the highest part of the sheet so there is never a chance of leaking even if the rubber washer perished over time.
Exposed fastener systems are no designed to be screwed thru the rib. Always screw in the flat. Those panels are designed to flex within the ribs
@@ronyoco Then why do so many American metal roofers that went from screwing through the flat to screwing through the ribs.?
Quality stuff clicks together nice
I've never had satisfactorily explained to me why the standing seam roof is so much more costly than corrugated. What say you?
I believe the price difference comes from the popularity of the standing seam. It actually looks less labor intensive than corrugated.
The machine to fabricate standing seam is very, very, very expensive
First, The material itself is different, it is thicker and has premium paint system compared to corrugated. The labor is double what corrugated is. The detail work of the trim is very labor intinsive. I have a few other videos showing this, maybe checkout the custom hems and z bar video
i have been considering replacing my 2/12 pitch section of roof that currently has rolled asphalt on it. Thanks for showing the differences.
Thanks for your comment, With that low of a pitch I would highly recommend going with the standing seam.
@@SkywalkerRoofingCompany makes sense thanks.
Here in Australia under the national plumbing code you cannot srew roof sheets down from within the tray, it can only screwed down from the top of the ridge on either side of the roofing sheet, the first example you showed would be wall cladding not roof decking, as Australian roof decking has hidden clips which are screwed to the roof before the decking is pushed onto it, something like the secound example
Your explained how the BOTTOM of the hidden fastener roof panel LOCKED under the Drip Edge
but
How does your 1st piece of ROOFING anchor on it's Leading / Beginning Edge ? ( on the LEFT)
Dave, the corrugated metal is fastened with the screws across the bottom edge. It is not hemmed like the standing seam with no exposed fasteners.
There would be a hidden cleat installed on the facia board and a Z bar trim installed on the panel, then a custom rake trim with open hem locked in. Thanks for your question
@@SkywalkerRoofingCompany - Thanks for your REPLY -
I would really to see that STARTER "hidden cleat"
STARTER Strip 'Z-Bar' installed in a future VIDEO -
Thanks again
COOP
........................................
there is obvious some type of starter strip for the second type of roof.......would have been nice to see and be tutored on it. otherwise that was a good video.......g
Yes there is and it is called a Gable end cap, but even that will need to be screwed down, but even if it leaks it will be outside of the home on the overhang.
the trim that was at the bottom also goes up the gable but is bent to a 90 degree angle and panel is cut and folded so that it is hooked there also,if there are valleys ,valley cleat is used and panels still will hook in the valley ,there are many companies and individuals doing them now but few do them correctly
@@benth162 Those "Gable end caps" are ridiculously over-sized and UGLY! The rake up the gable simply needs a drip edge (just like the one at the eaves he showed) with the steel bent and hooked over it ! no cap, no screws and a fine looking edge!
Thank you for sharing this information. You definitely know what you are doing and it shows. I can see the value in the ribbed panels and I love that the fasteners are invisible. Do you service areas in the South?
Ready to continue the conversation? Luke Wilson sat down to respond to some of your questions and comments about proper fastening of corrugated metal here: bit.ly/screwsintheflats
we call those R panels.I've been erecting pre engineered metal steel building for 15 years.standing seam cost a lot more,takes longer to install but way better,but it still has exposed fasteners at the bottom and laps.you still have to know what your doing
Great video and information!!!
I thought those seals were neoprene not rubber. neoprene should last considerably longer. you can set that screw gun for a specific torque and not over tighten OR under tighten the screws. Like any job, you have to pay attention to what you are doing. I'm 75 and I watch as each screw is driven. If you hire a druggy or a space cadet... good luck with leaks.
Neoprene is a rubber, though, just not a natural rubber.
That would work if the wood was consistent. Sometimes there's knots. Other times u'll hit a truss or one truss will be higher than another. All of these things make a torque setting useless on a metal roof. 1/4" impact is the way to go. Just go by feel.
USE THE FORCE!!
I will try
"Do, or do not. There is no try." ~ Yoda
@@revscooter29 "But beware of the dark side. ...
Thats a sweet system
I have 2 36' x 48' barns and both leak. One is 26 years old and the other 16. They were installed by a contractor with nails that had a seal. Many seals eventually failed over the year and I have replaced them with the screw type fasteners. I live in the Cascade mountains of Central Oregon where temperatures can range from -32 in Winter to 102 in Summer which is hard on everything. The standing seam's initial cost maybe twice as much as corrugated but in the long run it is probably worth every penny because I am constantly trying to stop leaks in my corrugated roof. I found out too late however.
P.S. unless you're skilled in the trades , let a roofing contractor do the job . Back breaking work and there's a lot of trick of the trade.Remember the quality remains long after the price is forgotten.
@Johnny AppleStead Have you done metal roofing?
I learned more in this short video than i have anywhere. thanks for sharing. I have the corrugated panels on my house. need to save my money for the standing seem panel. much better.
Ready to continue the conversation? Luke Wilson sat down to respond to some of your questions and comments about proper fastening of corrugated metal here: bit.ly/screwsintheflats
Interesting I knew those little rubber washers fail. I love the idea of the panels without exposed screws! Though in stead of nails I would preferably use screws to hold the panels down!
I agree, we use flat head screws to attach the standing seam roofs.
Most professional roofers follow proper procedure and screw into the ribs of the panel. I don't know why people put the screws where they will obviously leak when one washer fails after another. It is common knowledge in the industry not to put nails and screws in roofing products where water channels and sits.
Being a hidden screw doesn’t guarantee a leak free roof.nothing is 100 percent guarantee.and with all the 100 year rain events lately you never know.add into that a few inches of snow and anything is possible.
There is a building on our farm with a standing seam roof that is 94 years old!
It truly is a lifetime roof...
Yep, Tim you are right. I've seen old standing seam roofs over 100 years old. As long as they keep paint on it and it doesn't rust, It's there forever.
Stone colds cousin Luke warm showing us how to drop currogated panels like a boss. 😂
i like the corrugated as a diy guy, when its installed on top of roofing felt with plywood underneath i have seen it last, i have seen it installed on strapping with a plastic sheet and everyone has been trouble, the plastic, the plastic will sweat and drip into the house or shop, i have had to pull it off and lay plywood down, reuse the old metal with new screws and have to be fine.
Stone Cold Steve Austin does roofing now??
This is the comment I was looking for
Hi from New Zealand. We use corrugated a lot in N.Z. We call it 5 or 6 rib. When used on fences we screwed it as you showed to give a clean look, however on roofing jobs we only use 65mm galvanised screws through the center of the ridges to prevent water leaks. the screws have a neoprene rubber washer like yours. If put up correctly no reason it shouldn't last a hundred years. Best regards for the new year.
Thanks for your comment
i used that kind of roofing in the philippines,but those screws are on the rib of the upper fold. and not on the flat areas..no rubber are used since water will not enter because its on the upper folds..
On the standing seem how inert is the metal in rainwater collection? Does it leach any man-made chemical very important? Excellent video
Sorry but we don’t have any information regarding that
That would be a question for the paint manufacturer, and most metals have different paint options
Some Australian info
www.health.nsw.gov.au/environment/water/Pages/rainwater.aspx
Incorrect install of screw location. Install on the high side. Rubber washers only good for 5 years tops.
@Nomad Vagabond I have seen it installed that way everywhere. AS long as rubber washers are good, no leaks. I prefer the screws with the bonnet that totally covers the washer.
5 years? I've had my metal roof, with rubber washers, since 2002. I did make sure the screws were tightened perfectly though. Strangely, only one panel faded after 10 years, so I replaced it. It only took about an hour, and the screws and washers looked just fine. I am noticing some fading on the other panels now, but no rust, so I'm fine with it. Best and cheapest roof I've ever had.
@@JT-qf4it … Australia is the spiritual home of corrugated metal roofing and we DO NOT screw through the tray.... NEVER!!!.... qldsheetmetal.com.au/about-us/installation-maintenance/roofing-installation-guide/
mark jar , not only that , it would seem like they forgot their promise to do their best to reply to all the comments . their best just is not good enough when it comes to replies lol . just joking . i do like their standing seam metal roofing though :))
its an easy simple way to a roof . and easy to shape the panels .
Good job Stone Cold, how about identify estimated life expectancies for corrugated and standing seam.
Everyone keeps calling me "Stone Cold"! You're gonna make my head swell...lol! Life expectancy for a corrugated metal roof with rubber washer screws would be approximately 25 years and that's on the high side. Life expectancy for a standing seam metal roof with no exposed fasteners should easily last 80+ years if you maintained the paint.
Cool page
Whats under the metal, any backing material? My house has shingles, and I have had to black jack where nails pop up because they were inbetween boards and worked there way up.