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can i install standing seam panels onto metal truss with wood perlins no plywood

Clear explanation but again, don't the screws holding the "Z bar" at the top of each panel, reduce the expansion and contraction of the panel? Wouldn't you match the "Z bar" to the panel, that is, if the panel has corrugation, shouldn't the "Z bar" have corrugation to match?

Interesting Mr. Wilson. You mentioned the importance of the panel being able to expand and contract. Then you screw the first panel down via the "Z bar". Isn't this counter to what you just said about expansion and contraction? What am I missing?

Until it goes threw a hail storm. Beats it up

Great video. First Class!

You didn’t show how the left side of the panel is screwed down at the edge of the roof.

Everybody that's a roofer ought to know you got to put the tack on the line or it is not guaranteed!!

It's better with a hammer ive roofed for 40 years i used nailgun to better have compressor set right or it will blow through

We are building a metal building as a house in Montana, it doesn’t have soffits so we are installing 9 3” eave vents per side. How should we exhaust? Two gable vents, with or without a fan? Or some roof vents?

Think I'll practice on a dog house to get comfortable Have done a simple roof for old garage ..but not house worthy

great presentation I have never used a brake before. I took on a project , my own cottage in Puerto Rico. I want to bend all the roof members my self . Standing seam roof panels , facias, rakes , soffits door an window trim etc. I need help to find and buy the right brake for $ 2500. or less. I will be shipping to PR with a feww other tools with freight forwarders in Jacksonville FL. So far a van mark 20 contractor with a 20 inch throat might work . Please advise Brandon

But once you screwed in the Z bar over that first panel, that first panel can no longer move with fluctuations in temperature. Doesn't that delete the purpose of using the clips on the right of the first panel?

Best video out there. I can handle this. Thank you sir.

Question to the roofing Experts. On my Apartment complex I notice they have both ridge venting and 2 feet below the ridge vents, which is roof vents. Could it be possible the roof vents is letting in air and the air is going out the ridge vent instead of going thur Soffit?

good video. Learned a bit. --but--- like that maga ''nall''. made my day.

My AC ducts started sweating after I had a variable speed Trane installed. Company said Trane recommends closing soffit vents to take care of sweating problem. I wish the building industry would get their heads together and figure this out once and for all. Cold ducts in a hot humid attic is a terrible idea, yet so many homes in Florida have flex duct in a humid attic.

How can I vent my hip roof: 16" center rafters are closed off ALl 5 bays down side of house before reaches a FULL RAFTER that's open to ridge vent

I just moved into a home and there isn’t any ventilation in the garage. The garage gets really hot. I started adding reflective barrier and came across your video. You saved me some trouble. I need to go back and figure out a way to add air flow in and out.

Do I need to install a baffle if I don’t have insulation too close to sill plate on top of wall?

Shouldn’t the underpayment go over the drip edge?

Trust worthy means everything

I came here specifically for comments exclaiming how this is the wrong method and that the screws should always be installed on top of the ribs and the comments did not disappoint! I didn’t read 1000 of them but do not see anyone going against this method. The metal I have for my roof is even the same colour! Yet my father continues to argue with me that the crews aren’t supposed to go on the flats, they have to go on the ribs. I have 3” screws because I have 2” of installation on top of the wood sheeted roof. He’s telling me I’ve ordered them too short and that I need at least 3 1/2” or even 3 3/4” screws to do my 44 x 24 roof. Problem is he’s a sheet metal journeyman by trade (not roofer) and because of his 40 years in sheet metal, of course knows everything 🤦🏻‍♂️

expansion problems with the surface screw option?

The panels, I believe, are made to expand and contract lengthwise along the clips. However, on the rake ends the panels are screwed down when the Z metal is attached so that they cannot expand without causing damage at the screw locations. It seems this is an inherent flaw. If I have a misconception, please help me understand. Thanks.

Unfortunately this guy doesn't know any better the right way to start any standing seem application is you find the center of your roof so you don't end up with a narrow panel on the other end

Ridge vents are not always practical for many homes. Especially in areas with high winds.

Much appreciated, nobody teaches this info

Only reason I’m leaving a comment is because once I look up a video, I can no longer return to my search. Thanks RUclips.

Interesting topic. I'm a carpenter not a roofer so I can't say, but it's interesting to read the arguments. I was once told a tale of two crews working on identical houses in a development. One was a an old school hand crew and they other used guns (this was when guns first became popular). They made a bet on who would win. Right away the hand guys started putting shingles down. The other crew complained and asked them to wait till they got their compressors and guns set up. The hand guys so no, that's part of the job. . In the end the gun guys won by 15 minutes. . I wasn't there but that's the story I was told

I have a old home from the 70s or earlier I replaced some soffit and facia boards last year and noticed even though there was vents in the soffits there are no holes going into the attic , it’s completely sealed build, so the vents were doing nothing and I guess just for looks? I showed a few people and they said old houses the roofs were built this way My attic is roasting hot would it make sense to put a large vent in the attic access port so air gets pulled from my main floor into my attic then out the vents ontop of the roof? Or will that suck all my ac right out of the house ? There is also a solid window at one of the ends of the house in the attic , should I remove that and install a screen ? Or is there something else I should do ? It’s very confusing because I understand old houses were built very different than new construction, my house is latthe and plaster with stucco on the out side and from my understanding the whole house is mean to breath rather then the new vapour barrier systems Any tips would be much appreciated

Thank you for this video. I always love to see the details that go into a project done well. 🙂

Thank you

How do you slide the rake trim piece on a long roof... like 30 plus feet?

I see how they are linked together, but wonder why it isn't still a problem when adjoining a fireplace, or A/C equipment or at the rooftop?

Do you service or anyone you could recommend in Toronto Canada?

Is there a gap between the z bar and the ribs of the panel to allow for proper ventilation? Does this allow enough exhaust air to meet the 1/300 rule (1/150 being the exhaust)?

How do we keep the outside heat and cold out of the attic with so much ventilation?

The rake hooks on to the t drip? You said the cleat you installed earlier but i didn’t see it…

My garage has a hip roof. How would you start the first panels on that type of roof?

Lost respect as soon as he pulled out a drywall hammer.. smh.. and no control line.. what a jackfuck

As I see it, ventilation is about controlling temperature and controlling humidity. There can be insufficient ventilation, and there can also be too much ventilation. In the PNW, if there was too much ventilation, the humidity levels in the winter would range between 75 and 100%. That is not good. Mold grows and wood rots, while temperatures could plumet leading to condensation and frost inside the attic on some days. Humidity levels can only be controlled by ventilation if the outdoor humidity is lower than the attic humidity or if intake air is from a source that is drier that the attic air, at least when the air has warmed to attic temperatures. If outdoor humidity is higher at attic temperatures, then ventilation just fills the attic with more-humid air. If there is insufficient ventilation, the same can happen and also temperatures can soar in the summer. The key is to keep temperatures and humidity within a proper range: 30-60% humidity and temperatures from a minimum of 33 degrees in the winter up to no more than 130 degrees in the summer, and best when less than outdoor summer temperatures plus 20 degrees. One way to know if an attic has proper ventilation is to use a remote temperature/humidity sensor that transmits to a base station that can also graph trends. That is the best way to determine if ventilation levels are appropriate. Ventilation requirements can change depending on the season. Not enough ventilation = bad. Too much ventilation = bad. (In my opinion.)

Hey ya’ll, just wondering about how you get air flow, batten on the sheathing and vent strips?

Great video. Thanks for sharing

Exelent excellent explanation. Thanks

Should the gable ends of a home be solid or vented soffit?

Can you put this type of panel on top of 1 layer of asphalt shingles and without denting?

Doesn't the high temp membrane go over thye drip edge?

Though I appreciate your video, I am disappointed with the lack of depth. For example, if someone climbs into their attic and they see daylight via the soffit vents, does that mean they have adequate ventilation? Nope. If more is required what are the recommended solutions? Can intake vents be combined with bird vents? I've heard that there are many roofers that do not want to climb up a ladder with a saw and cut in more bird vents. Is it okay to combine intake roof vents with bird vents?

Look great! Enjoyed watching this. Do you know what technique is used for the edges on historic standing seam roofs? We are replacing standing seam roofs on some very old buildngs circa 1800's.

Where does the second hem lock into?