After installing and using both shingle and metal roofing, I'll never do any other roof besides steel in the future. They are MUCH better in all ways (at least in Canada.) 25 year shingles only lasted 10 years. Metal roofs last over 50 years. With the price of installation rising every year, it's far better to bite the bullet and get it done right the first time, then forget about it the rest of your life. I loved the fact that snow slid right off too, too much weight on a roof can damage buildings, especially older ones. I had a tree limb fall on the roof and all it did was dent the steel. It would have put a hole in a shingle roof. You'll never have a leak with a steel roof once it's done right. Shingles can seem good, but slowly leak, damaging roof and underlayment, and eventually drywall. One friend of mine had leaks go down through the walls through three floors. I installed a steel roof and that solved that problem. Sure some roofs are trickier than others, but that's a job that only has to be done once. Shingles need to be done every 10-20 years, so a complicated roof needs to be done again and again. I love steel so much I ripped off the rotten flat roof on my travel trailer and installed a steel pitched roof. No more problems with water damage for as long as I live! There are some reasons to buy a metal roof. Oh, do it yourself and save a tonne of money, it's not that difficult. You can even find manufacturers that offer "2nds" or miscut sales, bringing the cost down to comparable with shingles.
I live in the Sesttle area, and have a 3-tab tar-shingle composite roof that is 22 years old now, and still looks new. It has a 3-12 pitch. The previous roof was corrugated aluminum installed over old 3-tab "tar shingles" - the screws holding the aluminum were installed on the tops of ridges, and the eventual leaking at the screws caused a lot of wood rot. No idea why they installed the screws on the floating ridges, but they could not maintain a secure compression on the rubber washers under the screw heads, as there was always about a 1-inch gap between the aluminum ridge and the hard shingles below it.
@@logmeindangit It is possible that different locations and weather need different methods. Perhaps in the colder areas the ridge screwing works better, our sun is not has hot as down South. If you get no snow and only very hot days, the metal is doing a lot more expanding and contracting, so a tight connection would be more beneficial. However rubber washers are only supposed to be snugged so the rubber only begins to bulge - if you tighten it too much it will ruin the washer and leaks will come in. If you don't snug it enough, water will get in. I would never install steel over a shingle roof without first screwing down wood slats and screwing into them, because shingles compress and can give after you screw them down. Screwing into wood slats won't allow this to happen. Also, having air between the steel allows it to cool faster and not retain heat pumped into direct contact with shingles underneath, one of the advantages of steel.
I live in South Florida and I am considering installing a metal roof. Do you know of any experience metal roofer that you would recommend? Also can a ridge vent be installed in a metal roof as well? I currently have one on my 15 y/o shingles roof. Thanks for your feedback
@@elizabethirizarry9312 Installing metal roofing is not hard. In fact, I would say it is even easier than shingles. You shouldn't have trouble finding a handyman that can do the job. In FL I would use a white or lighter colour roof, since you get a lot of sun and don't need heat much. The white or light color will reflect the sun's heat and keep your home cooler. Definitely do a ridge vent - you don't want extra holes in your roof with regular vents. I have used whole ridge venting for all my roofs with no issues at all. Simply leave a 2" gap along the entire ridge on both sides of the support beam, cover with a black material designed to keep bugs out and air to flow, then cap with a metal ridge cap that covers it with a few extra inches overhang.
My home is 197 years old. This standing seam roof has been on this house before me. I have know idea when it was installed. I was 1 1/2 old when my parents bought this farm and this is the most reliable roof I could ever ask for. It’s been repainted 3 times. My opinion, it the only kind of roof I would ever have.
i was a union sandblaster/steel painter for 15 years and went to decorator after, i have worked in protective coatings at LTV steel, US steel, Inland steel, bethlehem steel, intech steel, and have relined huge steel storage tanks in tank farms all over the south and west of lake michigan. i retired to the philippines and built a house beside the ocean with my own 2 hands that was designed by me as well. my roof is corrugated steel, the 'wavy stuff' its rather thick and i had it trucked in from some distance. it's screwed onto 3/4 inch plywood resting on 2x6 'philippine mahogany' rafters every 4 ft on center with 2x2s as purlins (nailers) every 4 ft (but they are flush so not really perlins). I cleaned the sheet metal off with rags and MEK to remove any oily areas or dirt and primed it with 2 coats of iron oxide(both sides) before installing it.. after it was all screwed down i touched up any small scratches and screw heads then used white industrial enamel oil paint, 3 thin coats on that. that was in 2017, in 2023 i washed it down with soap and water and rinsed it well then hand sanded a few spots that looked like they may need it and recoated it with 2 more thin coats of white oil enamel. it still looks great and it has lowered the temperature in the house by reflecting the hot sun dramatically, you can touch any bare metal here at noon and it will burn your fingers. my roof feels like 65-70 degrees at noon. i have had zero rust(even beside the ocean) and zero coating failure and zero leaks. the temp here never varies too much staying between 65-95 degrees F so the expansion and contraction is not a problem , (and even less of a problem after painting since it stays between 65-75 degrees now! ). anything can be painted if you know what you're doing and use the correct materials. edit - i used galvanized screws with little rubber gaskets under the heads (dont over tighten and smash the gasket!)
I built my first house with metal singles and wouldn't use them again, but my new house has a corrugated metal roof and has lived through 2 cyclones. I put corrugated roofing iron on my new shed as well, and it has lived through one cyclone so far. I will continue using it on every new roof I do.
Is it a good idea to get metal shingles? I do have some live oak trees near one side of the home. I live in Florida. How good are they with wind resistance and are they more difficult to install?
thank you I appreciate this information. I live in Georgia. It rains really hard and most of the houses we have purchased. The roof doesn’t seem to be a sound as we like going into our forever home worst but thinking about switching over to a metal roof
double locked seamed roof is approved on slope as low as 1:12 according to the specifications. i would love to hear your opinion on that. thank you for your work!
I never watched this video as I'm A believer in metal roofs. The old style, screws with a cupped rubber gasket works well for about 15 years. The screws should be replaced with a little bit larger screw with new cupped rubber gasket seal. This maintenance at 15 year intervals will provide a leak proof roof for a hundred years or so.
I'm in northern Virginia, what are some products that you would recommend? anything to avoid? I know a steel of at least 24 gauge thickness with the impact resistance rating, but anything else I should look for?
Having lost a home to a wildfire, that started with leaves in the gutters igniting the facia boards...I want metal next time. I want the facia and soffits metal too.
Hi, so really would like a standing seam metal roof but have a low slope roof. Not a complicated roof only a couple pipes coming through. From my understanding machine seamed is the only metal roof system appropriate for my roof. Is that true? And should I still look to a different roofing system if I have this low slope, also live in Alaska and will have snow on it. Thanks.
My roof has a 45 degree pitch angle, and I'm in north west ohio...which is longest lasting best roof material ?metal shingles, metal hidden fastner, or asphalt.?
Most Snaplock profiles can go down to a 3:12 slope, some mechanical seam profiles can go down to a 2:12 or lower depending on the installation and roof design. For ultra-low slope roofs or flat roofs, metal is not the best choice in most cases. Here's a video on the topic: ruclips.net/video/wo6-ZPYx2A4/видео.html -Thad
@@TheMetalRoofingChannel Thanks. I'm in Hawaii in a costal application with about half of the roof at 0.5:12 and half at 2-3:12. The "ask your contractor" advice in the other video is failing me as their only advice is an extra layer of peel-n-stick. My impetus is that I need to replace my solar systemand it is a lot of penetrations through the roof with the alternatives. The solar all goes on the "flat" roof.
I would say ask your roofing manufacturer for more guidance on low-slope installation. Also mention your solar plans to them as they should have some info on that as well. If you will be installing a standing seam roof, there are clamps you can get for solar from companies like S-5! that do not penetrate the roof. -Thad
so if I don't like the look of metal roof or I can't afford a metal roof, I shouldn't buy a metal roof,! Freaking groundbreaking, thank you for wasting everyone who watches your video's time with absolute nonsense captain obvious!
@rdk162 Did you not notice the logo on his shirt? Sheffield Metals is a metal company. They do want to provide metal roofing. They also don't want to have disappointed potential customers who feel that they've been over-promised to if they only hear rosy things about their products from them. You build trust with people by being realistic and also telling people when your product is not the best fit for a given situation.
![Twenty One Pilots - The Line (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Audio]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XCz7WUotXs8/mqdefault.jpg)
As a 35 year metal roofer, I can give you 11 reasons to install a metal roof. And many metal roof systems are designed for low pitch roofing.
Yep, in australia in real high wind areas your insurance is lower if its a metal roof..
Depends on the installer can be the best roof
After installing and using both shingle and metal roofing, I'll never do any other roof besides steel in the future. They are MUCH better in all ways (at least in Canada.) 25 year shingles only lasted 10 years. Metal roofs last over 50 years. With the price of installation rising every year, it's far better to bite the bullet and get it done right the first time, then forget about it the rest of your life. I loved the fact that snow slid right off too, too much weight on a roof can damage buildings, especially older ones. I had a tree limb fall on the roof and all it did was dent the steel. It would have put a hole in a shingle roof. You'll never have a leak with a steel roof once it's done right. Shingles can seem good, but slowly leak, damaging roof and underlayment, and eventually drywall. One friend of mine had leaks go down through the walls through three floors. I installed a steel roof and that solved that problem. Sure some roofs are trickier than others, but that's a job that only has to be done once. Shingles need to be done every 10-20 years, so a complicated roof needs to be done again and again. I love steel so much I ripped off the rotten flat roof on my travel trailer and installed a steel pitched roof. No more problems with water damage for as long as I live! There are some reasons to buy a metal roof. Oh, do it yourself and save a tonne of money, it's not that difficult. You can even find manufacturers that offer "2nds" or miscut sales, bringing the cost down to comparable with shingles.
I live in the Sesttle area, and have a 3-tab tar-shingle composite roof that is 22 years old now, and still looks new. It has a 3-12 pitch. The previous roof was corrugated aluminum installed over old 3-tab "tar shingles" - the screws holding the aluminum were installed on the tops of ridges, and the eventual leaking at the screws caused a lot of wood rot. No idea why they installed the screws on the floating ridges, but they could not maintain a secure compression on the rubber washers under the screw heads, as there was always about a 1-inch gap between the aluminum ridge and the hard shingles below it.
@@logmeindangit It is possible that different locations and weather need different methods. Perhaps in the colder areas the ridge screwing works better, our sun is not has hot as down South. If you get no snow and only very hot days, the metal is doing a lot more expanding and contracting, so a tight connection would be more beneficial. However rubber washers are only supposed to be snugged so the rubber only begins to bulge - if you tighten it too much it will ruin the washer and leaks will come in. If you don't snug it enough, water will get in. I would never install steel over a shingle roof without first screwing down wood slats and screwing into them, because shingles compress and can give after you screw them down. Screwing into wood slats won't allow this to happen. Also, having air between the steel allows it to cool faster and not retain heat pumped into direct contact with shingles underneath, one of the advantages of steel.
I live in South Florida and I am considering installing a metal roof. Do you know of any experience metal roofer that you would recommend? Also can a ridge vent be installed in a metal roof as well? I currently have one on my 15 y/o shingles roof. Thanks for your feedback
@@elizabethirizarry9312 Installing metal roofing is not hard. In fact, I would say it is even easier than shingles. You shouldn't have trouble finding a handyman that can do the job. In FL I would use a white or lighter colour roof, since you get a lot of sun and don't need heat much. The white or light color will reflect the sun's heat and keep your home cooler. Definitely do a ridge vent - you don't want extra holes in your roof with regular vents. I have used whole ridge venting for all my roofs with no issues at all. Simply leave a 2" gap along the entire ridge on both sides of the support beam, cover with a black material designed to keep bugs out and air to flow, then cap with a metal ridge cap that covers it with a few extra inches overhang.
My home is 197 years old. This standing seam roof has been on this house before me. I have know idea when it was installed. I was 1 1/2 old when my parents bought this farm and this is the most reliable roof I could ever ask for. It’s been repainted 3 times. My opinion, it the only kind of roof I would ever have.
Can you tell me more about this painting process? Do you contract this out?
i was a union sandblaster/steel painter for 15 years and went to decorator after, i have worked in protective coatings at LTV steel, US steel, Inland steel, bethlehem steel, intech steel, and have relined huge steel storage tanks in tank farms all over the south and west of lake michigan.
i retired to the philippines and built a house beside the ocean with my own 2 hands that was designed by me as well.
my roof is corrugated steel, the 'wavy stuff' its rather thick and i had it trucked in from some distance. it's screwed onto 3/4 inch plywood resting on 2x6 'philippine mahogany' rafters every 4 ft on center with 2x2s as purlins (nailers) every 4 ft (but they are flush so not really perlins).
I cleaned the sheet metal off with rags and MEK to remove any oily areas or dirt and primed it with 2 coats of iron oxide(both sides) before installing it.. after it was all screwed down i touched up any small scratches and screw heads then used white industrial enamel oil paint, 3 thin coats on that.
that was in 2017, in 2023 i washed it down with soap and water and rinsed it well then hand sanded a few spots that looked like they may need it and recoated it with 2 more thin coats of white oil enamel.
it still looks great and it has lowered the temperature in the house by reflecting the hot sun dramatically, you can touch any bare metal here at noon and it will burn your fingers. my roof feels like 65-70 degrees at noon. i have had zero rust(even beside the ocean) and zero coating failure and zero leaks.
the temp here never varies too much staying between 65-95 degrees F so the expansion and contraction is not a problem , (and even less of a problem after painting since it stays between 65-75 degrees now! ).
anything can be painted if you know what you're doing and use the correct materials.
edit - i used galvanized screws with little rubber gaskets under the heads (dont over tighten and smash the gasket!)
I built my first house with metal singles and wouldn't use them again, but my new house has a corrugated metal roof and has lived through 2 cyclones. I put corrugated roofing iron on my new shed as well, and it has lived through one cyclone so far. I will continue using it on every new roof I do.
I always love great unbiased information that'll help me make the best decision. Thanks
Thank you Chad ! Looking to do a metal roof this spring. Subscribed to your channel to gather info. Another informative video. Thanks for sharing
Is it a good idea to get metal shingles? I do have some live oak trees near one side of the home. I live in Florida. How good are they with wind resistance and are they more difficult to install?
thank you I appreciate this information. I live in Georgia. It rains really hard and most of the houses we have purchased. The roof doesn’t seem to be a sound as we like going into our forever home worst but thinking about switching over to a metal roof
double locked seamed roof is approved on slope as low as 1:12 according to the specifications. i would love to hear your opinion on that. thank you for your work!
I never watched this video as I'm A believer in metal roofs. The old style, screws with a cupped rubber gasket works well for about 15 years. The screws should be replaced with a little bit larger screw with new cupped rubber gasket seal. This maintenance at 15 year intervals will provide a leak proof roof for a hundred years or so.
Yeah, I’m a GC, I installed my own metal roof, it was faster and easier than any other roof I’ve installed. And man was it fast.
If I have a 25ft shed roof, can I still put metal on it? How do I hide the seams?
I'm in northern Virginia, what are some products that you would recommend? anything to avoid? I know a steel of at least 24 gauge thickness with the impact resistance rating, but anything else I should look for?
I would recommend checking around for a textured metal,it doesn't glare in sun an you can walk it (not slick) an it looks really good
Having lost a home to a wildfire, that started with leaves in the gutters igniting the facia boards...I want metal next time. I want the facia and soffits metal too.
Hi, so really would like a standing seam metal roof but have a low slope roof. Not a complicated roof only a couple pipes coming through. From my understanding machine seamed is the only metal roof system appropriate for my roof. Is that true? And should I still look to a different roofing system if I have this low slope, also live in Alaska and will have snow on it. Thanks.
We love our metal roof. But some of our neighbors don't because they cause glare. What can we do ro reduce the glare?
You could probably use a paint that doesn't reflect light... that might affect the temperature, though. I'd check with the manufacturer first.
Don't glare, smile.
I will install metal on my home no matter what. No matter what.
My roof has a 45 degree pitch angle, and I'm in north west ohio...which is longest lasting best roof material ?metal shingles, metal hidden fastner, or asphalt.?
Im from northwest ohio too crazy!! haha
Just stop using smooth metal,textured metal is the only metal i work with,check with your suppliers, you can walk it on 8/12 an it dont oil can
The low-pitch roof comment is odd and I wish was expanded on more.
Most Snaplock profiles can go down to a 3:12 slope, some mechanical seam profiles can go down to a 2:12 or lower depending on the installation and roof design. For ultra-low slope roofs or flat roofs, metal is not the best choice in most cases. Here's a video on the topic: ruclips.net/video/wo6-ZPYx2A4/видео.html -Thad
@@TheMetalRoofingChannel Thanks. I'm in Hawaii in a costal application with about half of the roof at 0.5:12 and half at 2-3:12. The "ask your contractor" advice in the other video is failing me as their only advice is an extra layer of peel-n-stick.
My impetus is that I need to replace my solar systemand it is a lot of penetrations through the roof with the alternatives. The solar all goes on the "flat" roof.
I would say ask your roofing manufacturer for more guidance on low-slope installation. Also mention your solar plans to them as they should have some info on that as well. If you will be installing a standing seam roof, there are clamps you can get for solar from companies like S-5! that do not penetrate the roof. -Thad
Modern asphalt shingles are absolute garbage nowadays, metal roof is the way to go, and you can get them now that looks like shingles
so if I don't like the look of metal roof or I can't afford a metal roof, I shouldn't buy a metal roof,! Freaking groundbreaking, thank you for wasting everyone who watches your video's time with absolute nonsense captain obvious!
Says a guy who sells shingles
@rdk162 Did you not notice the logo on his shirt? Sheffield Metals is a metal company. They do want to provide metal roofing. They also don't want to have disappointed potential customers who feel that they've been over-promised to if they only hear rosy things about their products from them. You build trust with people by being realistic and also telling people when your product is not the best fit for a given situation.
@@seabream did you notice that I don’t give a shit
Don't buy a metal roof.
Because it's already been on a roof.
Buy new metal and put it on the roof.
Metal roof look shty😅