Lol,,, While watching this video,,, I saw your scraping Plane ,,, and went Bananas ! I found and bought a Stanley #12 on Ebay ,, $72.00 shipping and all , But I also found a Stanley Mini Trimming Plane #101 ,, $20.00 ! I'm a weirdo when it comes to my woodworking hand tools ! I'll have both of em , Cleaned up, Brass polished , Blades flattened and Honed to " Stupid Sharp" ! Can't wait ,,, Just to bring em back to better than new !
Thanks for sharing your techniques on radiusing a fingerboard without needing a router or other "fancy" jigs. My goal is to make a ukulele from scratch and I'm thinking I would like to put just the slightest radius on the fret board. Lee Valley, and I believe Lie-Nielsen, both offer a scraping plane with a long sole, like the Stanley No. 112, but it's not the same as your recommendation. That said, the Lee Valley version, item number 05P2901, is $219. The Lie-Nielsen, when available, is $285! Lee Valley's cabinet scraper, 05P3205 - similar to the Stanley No. 80 is $92.50. Both manufacturers offer No. 7 planes but they are quite pricey. I lucked into a vintage Stanley 12 1/2, with the rosewood sole still attached, for $40. Another $20 for a new scraper and I was all set. I have the Veritas cabinet scraper and it is a well made tool. Much more stout than the old Stanley No. 80s.
Kevin - I cut my fret slots prior to putting a radius on the fingerboard. I find it easier to use the jig I do when the fingerboard is still flat. It seems to me that the plane might be more prone to chipping out small bits as it crosses the cut fret slots. What do you think? I'm I over thinking this and worrying about something that won't happen with a nicely sharp (as it should be) plane blade?
I would share your concern for grain lifting and chipping if the fingerboard was planed after slotting unless you did all of it with a sanding beam. My fret slotting system suspends the arched surface of the fingerboard about 1/64" above my saw table, so getting even fret slot depth isn't a problem. I don't believe you're over thinking this. You're studying it carefully. That makes you better craftsman right from the get-go.
What if you had something that was the equivalent of that sanding beam, but it had a plane blade in the middle that was slightly protruding? I don't remember what it's called but I saw a video of someone in colonial williamsburg using a weird little wooden plane to get almost a roundover/ogee type edge on something by hand. I realize it's different in shape and size and scale, but have you ever heard of something like this for a fingerboard?
Thank you for that excellent idea. I'm going to fabricate a set of hands for my radiused beam; maybe do a short video on how it turns out, unless you want to take the lead on that:)
@@thepragmaticluthier What do you mean by set of hands? And as far as I'm concerned go for it, I look forward to it. I wouldn't know how to go about doing it, but I 'd imagine starting with one of the stewmac wood sanding beams would be a good place to start. They only make the wooden ones as long as 8 inches I think though.
@@thepragmaticluthier Follow up on this, I just learned from another video the type of plane I was talking about is called a moulding plane. They made/make them to make roundover edges. I'm not sure if it could be scaled up to a large enough radius for a fingerboard.
I just checked that source. The sanding beams look good until you read the fine print. They are extruded and radius is not refined by machining. G & W states, "DISCLAIMER: This product is extruded and not flat machined so there’s an associated tolerance of 0,05/m." While the disclaimer clearly demonstrates integrity, it begs the question: .05 what per meter.
You are rotating that sanding beam with your body motion. The resulting radius can't be precise. Hard to avoid that twisting motion - I've tried a lot...
Your comment begs the questions; What level of precision is necessary? What level of imprecision is inherent with the use of a sanding beam? What are the acceptable tolerances plus and minus from the specified radius? Given the use of a sanding beam, can its inherent inaccuracies, be overcome by ongoing checks and measurement during (not just at the conclusion of ) fabrication?
@@thepragmaticluthier to me it's more like a yoga exercise. To align all motion and breathing and awareness in order to achieve linear movement of the sanding block. Not so much about achieving precision but rather to learn to control my body.
@thepragmaticluthier hey Kev, what do you think about making guitars out of old pianos? I see so many for free that are rotting away. Sure would be nice to give the wood a third life. Also, a video on shaping saddles for intonation would be helpful! Grateful for all the knowledge you're sharing, thank you!
Lol,,, While watching this video,,, I saw your scraping Plane ,,, and went Bananas ! I found and bought a Stanley #12 on Ebay ,, $72.00 shipping and all , But I also found a Stanley Mini Trimming Plane #101 ,, $20.00 ! I'm a weirdo when it comes to my woodworking hand tools ! I'll have both of em , Cleaned up, Brass polished , Blades flattened and Honed to " Stupid Sharp" ! Can't wait ,,, Just to bring em back to better than new !
What a great video instruction. Thanks
Thank you, Kevin. This is very helpful.
Thanks for sharing your techniques on radiusing a fingerboard without needing a router or other "fancy" jigs. My goal is to make a ukulele from scratch and I'm thinking I would like to put just the slightest radius on the fret board.
Lee Valley, and I believe Lie-Nielsen, both offer a scraping plane with a long sole, like the Stanley No. 112, but it's not the same as your recommendation. That said, the Lee Valley version, item number 05P2901, is $219. The Lie-Nielsen, when available, is $285! Lee Valley's cabinet scraper, 05P3205 - similar to the Stanley No. 80 is $92.50. Both manufacturers offer No. 7 planes but they are quite pricey.
I lucked into a vintage Stanley 12 1/2, with the rosewood sole still attached, for $40. Another $20 for a new scraper and I was all set. I have the Veritas cabinet scraper and it is a well made tool. Much more stout than the old Stanley No. 80s.
Great lesson, as always. Thx.
Love your channel and philosophy on guitar building. You’ve inspired me to take up the craft. Thank you for sharing your knowledge! 🙏🏽
I'm certainly glad that you found inspiration to build an instrument. Enjoy the process.
Really valuable information, Kevin - as always. Thank you very much.
Thank you for encouraging comment and thank you for watching my videos.
Really usefull, thanks (And the audio levels are better 👍)
Thanks. I bought an inexpensive lavaliere microphone.
Keep those videos coming!
I got a nice long aluminum radiused beam from a company called philadelphia luthier supply that is very nice and was a lot cheaper.
Kevin - I cut my fret slots prior to putting a radius on the fingerboard. I find it easier to use the jig I do when the fingerboard is still flat. It seems to me that the plane might be more prone to chipping out small bits as it crosses the cut fret slots. What do you think? I'm I over thinking this and worrying about something that won't happen with a nicely sharp (as it should be) plane blade?
I would share your concern for grain lifting and chipping if the fingerboard was planed after slotting unless you did all of it with a sanding beam. My fret slotting system suspends the arched surface of the fingerboard about 1/64" above my saw table, so getting even fret slot depth isn't a problem. I don't believe you're over thinking this. You're studying it carefully. That makes you better craftsman right from the get-go.
@@thepragmaticluthier Thanks. What a nice compliment coming from someone whose craftmanship I admire...
What if you had something that was the equivalent of that sanding beam, but it had a plane blade in the middle that was slightly protruding? I don't remember what it's called but I saw a video of someone in colonial williamsburg using a weird little wooden plane to get almost a roundover/ogee type edge on something by hand. I realize it's different in shape and size and scale, but have you ever heard of something like this for a fingerboard?
Thank you for that excellent idea. I'm going to fabricate a set of hands for my radiused beam; maybe do a short video on how it turns out, unless you want to take the lead on that:)
@@thepragmaticluthier What do you mean by set of hands? And as far as I'm concerned go for it, I look forward to it. I wouldn't know how to go about doing it, but I 'd imagine starting with one of the stewmac wood sanding beams would be a good place to start. They only make the wooden ones as long as 8 inches I think though.
@@thepragmaticluthier Follow up on this, I just learned from another video the type of plane I was talking about is called a moulding plane. They made/make them to make roundover edges. I'm not sure if it could be scaled up to a large enough radius for a fingerboard.
G&W in Portugal sells 18" radius beams for 50€😀
I just checked that source. The sanding beams look good until you read the fine print. They are extruded and radius is not refined by machining. G & W states, "DISCLAIMER: This product is extruded and not flat machined so there’s an associated tolerance of 0,05/m." While the disclaimer clearly demonstrates integrity, it begs the question: .05 what per meter.
I have 2 of them and they work fine, never find a problem
I asked G&W and they said 0,05mm per meter
Thanks for that information. It’s good news. Thanks again for that clarification.
You are rotating that sanding beam with your body motion. The resulting radius can't be precise. Hard to avoid that twisting motion - I've tried a lot...
Your comment begs the questions; What level of precision is necessary? What level of imprecision is inherent with the use of a sanding beam? What are the acceptable tolerances plus and minus from the specified radius? Given the use of a sanding beam, can its inherent inaccuracies, be overcome by ongoing checks and measurement during (not just at the conclusion of ) fabrication?
@@thepragmaticluthier to me it's more like a yoga exercise. To align all motion and breathing and awareness in order to achieve linear movement of the sanding block. Not so much about achieving precision but rather to learn to control my body.
Im tired of how overpriced every little thing is on Stew Mac, absolutely ridiculous pricing.
Isn't that the truth.
@thepragmaticluthier hey Kev, what do you think about making guitars out of old pianos?
I see so many for free that are rotting away. Sure would be nice to give the wood a third life.
Also, a video on shaping saddles for intonation would be helpful! Grateful for all the knowledge you're sharing, thank you!