Great vid - I'm really enjoying working through your archive. The clear acrylic neck alignment jig is a nice addition. I made a version (based on something I saw for sale) that is adjustable to different tapers, but I found it to be very fiddly with a bit too much slop. The single taper version looks much more reliable. Thanks!
I believe I'm familiar with the devise you mentioned. To me, it seemed overly complex to make and quite possibly nat a reliable as one may want it to be. I seem to recall that the purchased version was also wildly expensive, ergo one of the main reasons I advocate making your own tools.
Just a thought, could one set the table saw jig to cut half the taper (.410 in this case) and then flip the fretboard blank over and cut again to end up with the proper taper and centred grain? Loving your channel, so many ideas!
There are ways to do as you suggest and I'm sure they can be accurate. I've experimented with that some, but found the process to be a little cumbersome and have found that the more variables that enter into the process, the chance for less than desirable results. You should develop that technique if it intrigues you. You could probably make it work to perfection.
Just watched your video. Thank you for such a great solution to a fingerboard taper. Not sure how to mark the position of the nut 90deg to the centre line on the tapered template. Any suggestions please?
Yes, this is very easy. Place a protractor on the center line and draft the zero line square to it. cut and or sand to the zero line. Another procedure: rip the fingerboard blank to any convenient width over the maximum finished width,( I use 2 1/2", 65.5mm because it divides easily) you can square one or both ends from an edge. Then, by drafting a center line on the parallel edged board, you can use that center line to position the board on the tapering jig as seen in the video. The result after tapering will be a zero end that is square to the center line.
This is great, I need to make some tapered fingerboard gluing cauls, thanks for sharing this nice video. Another benefit of making your own jigs and fixtures is that you get to exercise your skills in accurate marking and cutting and you get practice in preventing things like tearout/blowout before you do it to expensive hardwood.
I make templates of the same taper, but narrower by 1/8" , just for that purpose. I bind my fingerboards at full thickness of the board. If purling is to be placed inside the binding, that ledge is cut in after the board is tapered.
Thanks again Kevin. I love jigs and templates. They usually keep me from making mistakes. Well done.
Thank you, Kevin.
Great vid - I'm really enjoying working through your archive. The clear acrylic neck alignment jig is a nice addition. I made a version (based on something I saw for sale) that is adjustable to different tapers, but I found it to be very fiddly with a bit too much slop. The single taper version looks much more reliable. Thanks!
I believe I'm familiar with the devise you mentioned. To me, it seemed overly complex to make and quite possibly nat a reliable as one may want it to be. I seem to recall that the purchased version was also wildly expensive, ergo one of the main reasons I advocate making your own tools.
you make the coolest tools for guitar making, thank you for sharing it.
Thank you. I enjoy making these presentations. I hope you enjoy them and benefit from them.
Another great video kevin. Thankyou. I love your philosophy ,skill and presentation.😀
I would love to had been your shadow..Yo Sure are a literal fountain of knowledge.... Thanks for sharing your thoughts and knowledge 😎......
You're entirely welcome. I enjoy making these videos and hope that you and many others may benefit from them. Thank you for your kind words.
Just a thought, could one set the table saw jig to cut half the taper (.410 in this case) and then flip the fretboard blank over and cut again to end up with the proper taper and centred grain? Loving your channel, so many ideas!
There are ways to do as you suggest and I'm sure they can be accurate. I've experimented with that some, but found the process to be a little cumbersome and have found that the more variables that enter into the process, the chance for less than desirable results. You should develop that technique if it intrigues you. You could probably make it work to perfection.
Just watched your video. Thank you for such a great solution to a fingerboard taper. Not sure how to mark the position of the nut 90deg to the centre line on the tapered template. Any suggestions please?
Yes, this is very easy. Place a protractor on the center line and draft the zero line square to it. cut and or sand to the zero line. Another procedure: rip the fingerboard blank to any convenient width over the maximum finished width,( I use 2 1/2", 65.5mm because it divides easily) you can square one or both ends from an edge. Then, by drafting a center line on the parallel edged board, you can use that center line to position the board on the tapering jig as seen in the video. The result after tapering will be a zero end that is square to the center line.
You can make the template with MDF and case harden it with CA glue. They last forever
You could use the tapering jigg and still match the grain if you half the tapering angle and cut both sides…
True; I believe I mentioned that, but you'll want to refine the ripped edge.
This is great, I need to make some tapered fingerboard gluing cauls, thanks for sharing this nice video.
Another benefit of making your own jigs and fixtures is that you get to exercise your skills in accurate marking and cutting and you get practice in preventing things like tearout/blowout before you do it to expensive hardwood.
Could you also route binding for the fongerboard?
I make templates of the same taper, but narrower by 1/8" , just for that purpose. I bind my fingerboards at full thickness of the board. If purling is to be placed inside the binding, that ledge is cut in after the board is tapered.