So... You forgot to treat your wood with mineral oil didn't you. Or more preferably linseed oil. The reason it warped is because you stored it in a cool, dry place. The remaining water within the wood escaped into that dry place and warped it. You need to treat your wood, especially recently cut wood, with a sealing oil or wax to keep it from warping.
Ok so now to flatten it: tape sheets of 80 grit sand paper face up onto a dead flat surface such as a ceramic floor tile (or wet the tile so it “sticks”) then rub your diorama back and forward over it until it stands flat. Also works well for sharpening chisels and other tools. Or put that pink body filler under it and sit it on the ceramic floor tile. Have a look at Luke Towan’s channel that guy is a genius at this stuff
If he would have treated it with any kind of oil, he wouldn't have been able to permanetly glue anything to it - and it would still twist and warp, because oil wont stop the wood from taking or loosing moisture. The best thing would have been to store it in the same area/climate as was cut in and be in after finishing the diorama, so the moisture level in the wood would have adjusted and then laquering it - and no, or almost no warpind and twisting would have happened. And it would have been even better to use some plywod or chipboard... That stuff doesn't cause nearly as much problems than solid wood in the first place!
As a Ph.D. physics student who has done and led labs in which students have worked with transferring electric charges and had to contend with static electricity... its incredibly finicky stuff. The weather (humidity especially) can really affect how well these labs work. Not to mention the issues that could arise from having watches and rings on your hands, certain types of clothing which are really good at creating static electricity, and if you're dumb enough to work on a metal table top. So the fact that some people are having issues with the grass applicator isn't surprising at all. Oh, and actually Jingles, the grass applicator doesn't really work as you say it does... or at least you're not being entirely accurate. The problem with asserting that there is a current going through the model is that you don't actually have a ground (or a completed circuit for that matter). So you're actually using the 9V battery to make your model into a capacitor for a short while. I could go on for ever but we all have things to do. XD
Jingles, here is the easy fix: Build a fitting frame from wooden strips around the base. Cut them according to the terrain and glue the warped wood into it. With that, the frame is flush on the ground and you get a neat border as well, instead of the unevenly cuutted styrofoam. Easy.
Exactly the sort of thing a friend of mine did with his Model Railway when it's baseboards were warping. We're talking about 5ft long by 3ft sections there and it worked like a charm.
JIngles, top tip... The crocodile clip can be used if you poke a pin into the surface you're applying static grass to and then attach the clip. You can prepare the surface by applying several pins before you begin and just relocate the clip as you work...
According to Google Translate Sign 1: "Bridge, 20т", which I assume is a weight limit of 20 tons Sign 2: "Stop! Front door closed", which probably means "Stop! No entry ahead"
Agree to the 1st one but sign 2 says: "STOP!" (or rather "HALT!", since it is formulated as an order) "DRIVE-THROUGH CLOSED" (road closed) "FRONT" (well, like war front) Both signs together saying sth like "go there to the bridge but don't as the road is closed because of the front nearby". :)
Dear gnome overload I have two solutions to the warping board problem. 1 glue a wooden frame round the edge which is deeper then the base there by lifting it. 2 for the next base manufactured wood such as MDF Keep up the good work!
One of the greatest things a about diaramas is that you can make them very cheaply with just your imagination and patience great to see them coming back...
For pinning models, either to stabilize parts you're connecting to each other or to attach them to a base, an excellent wire to use can be found anywhere they sell stationary or office products. When they sell it, they call it "paper clips". Paper clip wire has a small diameter, but it's very strong and stiff in short lengths. Yet you can bend it if necessary, and standard wire cutters will trim it. Pin vises are called that because they are a form of vise, not a drill. They were designed to hold long, thin cylindrical objects that would be awkward to hold in a person's fingers, and are used by jewelers and watchmakers. Because they are a handy little tool, their use was expanded to hold precision knife blades and drill bits, but that wasn't the intention when they were first designed.
Nice work. The sprue trees you've cut the kit parts off of are a useful source of material for lots of things. For example, short pieces of it heated and stretched to form a pointy end would make nice pins for attaching the figures to the base. Being the same plastic, they would adhere readily to the bottom of the figure with a bit of modeling glue.
For future reference Jingles, You need to coat and seal the wood base before you start slapping wet stuff like clay onto it. It's the moisture causing it to warp. A couple coats of a good varnish will do the job and make it look pretty too.
Looks great Jingles. I use straightened paper clips to make pins for the feet...also handy for pinning resin parts together. You can also use them to clip to your static grass applicator when applying grass in smaller areas. Cheers 😊
Great diorama! And a cheap suggestion for "pegs" to hold your figures down to the styrene... stretched sprue. You can make it any thickness you want, it glues well to the base, and you already have a plentiful supply of it. :) Keep up the great work!
If it helps in the future, I recommend plywood for bases, cut to size, you can hide the plywood edges with iron-on veneer. If you haunt your local DIY store they sometimes have an off cuts bin which can contain suitable sized pieces you can take for a small donation to their chosen charity (well, it's the case in my local B&Q). Iron-on veneer can be a tad tricky to begin with, splinters are NO joke, but persevere. Because the wood grain is at right angles each layer it never warps.
Most homes are dryer than in places where lumberyard store their wood so it tends to dry out further which can cause it to warp or crack. I prefer using MDF if I plan on painting the base. plenty strong enough easier to work with and gives a very smooth finish due to it's fine and consistent texture. if I want it to look like actual wood I'll use actual wood but ill turn it into a box with the diorama seated within. Mostly for ships with a sea diorama. If you want to use a board of wood as is you have to treat it before drying it further. it can prevent warping, though over time it still might. ^^ Nice build though, I like it!
I would probably use mdf for the base and then just frame the whole thing in real wood. After all if you paint the mdf either way the only part of it that looks wooden would be the underside. Would that work?
A few tips from a model railroader: - Add some dry pigment to the scenery base (tile grout or Sculptamold). If the scenery ever gets chipped - particularly along the edges - it will prevent glaring white or grey spots from showing up on your diorama. - When using real dirt as a scenery base, collect dirt that is lighter than the desired color. The weaker light indoors will cause the dirt to appear darker on the diorama than it did when collecting it outside. - When using real dirt as a scenery base, bake it in an oven between 250 and 400 degrees Fahrenheit (about 120 to 200 degrees Celsius) for an hour to kill all of the microorganisms in the soil. Then sift the sterilized dirt through various sized screens. - For a coarse forest floor cover, bake some dry leaves in the oven (same process as dirt) before mulching them up in an old coffee grinder or blender. (Depending on the device, it may be necessary to add a little water before mulching.) Sift the mulched leaves to the desired coarseness and apply to the diorama. - When sterilizing natural scenery materials in the oven be warned IT WILL PROBABLY SMELL BAD. A small old toaster oven out in the garage or near a window is greatly preferable to using the kitchen oven. Do not leave the oven unattended while baking. - Used tea leaves and coffee grounds can be used to add some variation to the ground cover.
"If all you have is a sharp knife..." Sharpen the hell out of the blade even more and keep sharpening the blade every few inches of cut. expanded polystyrene kills the Cutting edges of blades. Yes, you can sharpen disposable blades.
15:37 "Pin vice" is the name of the tool other than the drill you put into it; the "handle" if you will, or "hand grip" if you prefer. Because what it does is that it is a handle with a thing that in turn grips a cylindrical object at the end. A thing that grips another thing is a "vice", and a cylindrical object is usually a "pin". So the thing holding the drill is a "pin vice". You could call it a "drill vice" because that's usually what's being gripped, but the original name from its original purpose has stuck.
For your standing up figures, try holding a pin in pliers, heat up the point and melt it into the figure's foot. When it is set you can snip off the excess of the pin and jam it into the ground.
Tip for the future: Use 10mm MDF or plywood as a base. MDF may twist a little when wet with glue, so seal both sides. It'll flatten out once the glue is dry anyhow ;) That PVA glue you paid a fiver for is very over-priced, normal PVA glue can be got half a litre at a time at Poundland. What you've done there is brilliant, it's much better than I could have done, even back in the day when my eyes worked properly! Well done sir, you should be very proud of that!
Plywood is good for model railroads and dioramas. If you build the base through the grout/model/plaster stage before assembling the tank, you can use the tracks to make tracks. You can use a heat source (foam cutter, soldering iron, match) to heat up a wire and stick into the human models' foot. The wire should stick into the "ground".
Stronk and beautiful. I just unlocked my KV-2 and the 152mm howitzer, and I have ROFL-stomped on every single tank ever. KV-2: when you absolutely definitely have to shoot through a daft cardboard tube, and you still make it work amazing.
The engineering world call that lil drill thingy a 'Pin Chuck'. The wood warping issue is a bain of any woodworker, I'd recommend using Plywood as the grains of each 'ply' are at 90 degrees to each other, so it significantly reduces warpage. Its not full proof, but it helps. The wood warping in the first place is probably because it it still had moisture in it and as it dries it contracts, and depending on which cross section of the tree it was taken from will affect how evenly it contracts. Go for plywood or MDF. I hate MDF but you won't be plagued by warpage issues. Happy Modelling!
You can use a paperclip for pinning as well, if you straighten it a bit and cut it size :) I know, such old school office supplies are hardly in fashion anymore, but at least this way they can earn their keep.
Fyi, a single plank of wood that size will always warp, especially when you add a heap of water based glue to one side. Best to seal it as soon as you get it, to lessen warping. I would recomend laminated timber or a composite product. Love the finished job.
@Jesus H Christ indeed, I used a pair of big ass 200×120×1.3cm plywood sheets to provide better battlefield support for my TT wargaming. After 1 year of storage and regular use, they were no longer flat.
I used super duper glue to stand the people up on my M41 Walker Bulldog dio. I had to scratch away a little space through the base ground layer to give it something to stick to. Several years later and it's still standing and it's been through a house move. Also Jingles, you do realize that one of your resting crew members has the muzzle of his Mosin pointed straight at his mates nuts!
You can use old paper clips, safety pins, or old copper wire(solid not the twisted kind) to use for pinning besides the brass wire you get from hobby shops too.
Part of making models is improvising as every model has its own set of hidden challenges.
4 года назад+6
This is a pretty damn good video. My dude you should actually think of making a series of these builds with these commentaries. I would eat them all up, opposing all the modelling youtubers who stay silent during the builds and stuff, this would definitely stand out.
Coming from a Model Railway background, the best thing to cover your landscape after forming it is normal household filler. Mix it with water and PVA glue as the PVA gives it some flexibility so it doesn't crack. Much cheaper then any of the officially titled modelling compounds you can purchase and works just as well.
If you have any wire twist ties (often discovered breeding in the backs of kitchen drawers) you can use the wire from those to fix your standing figures.
It's a pin vice because it grips a pin shaped rod, like your drill bit. Also, try paperclips for pins. They're cheap, a small box of them could have you set for years. Just cut the length you need with wire cutters. It's what I use when I need to pin a battletech miniature or a toy that my nieces broke.
I tend to use paper clips straightened out and cut to size for pins To fix the base, you can level it using the same modeling compound pressed onto greeseproof paper to level it, or use a metal base/angle iron cut to size like a picture frame and sit the base in it.
Jingles! You can make pins to pin your miniatures to their base or parts onto them very easily by cutting small paperclips down. Don't use your hobby nipper to do it though, the blades usually aren't hard enough and could get nicked. It's what I do, cheap and you always have enough.
Little tip jingles when attaching figures to the diorama as you said drill a wire in the figure and pin it in. But i won't bother with the wedging. Just use a strong super glue like loctite. It works so much easier just hold the figure in place for about 30 seconds and Bob's your uncle hes in place. Good Diorama in any case.
Jingle a small tip if you want to glue something with PVA glue, put bit of PVA on for example your diorama on the ground and apply bit of superglue under the shoe of a soldier the superglue. The Superglue wants moisture to dry (harden) and the PVA wants the moisture out of it to dry.
Ahoj Jingles, the wood warping, same thing happens if you paint one side of a piece of plywood. The solution is a dilute wash of pva on the other side, serves as primer for varnish too.
The terrain looks great. Not only for a first try, just great. But the KV2 looks brand new. Try weathering the tank so it looks like it's been on the battlefield. Compaire WOT 0.6 with 1.0 HD. Keep building these vids are great.
Mr. Jingles, Get some rubber feet for the wooden base. You can either screw them into place or get the self adhesive type. They will help you get stability back for your diorama base. Some penetrating wood oil on the bottom and sides of the board ( carefully applied ) will help a lot after the fact..
Instead of solid wood use plywood or MDF for your base. It won't warp, is usually a bit cheaper, and you can frequently find pieces precut to about the size you need.
Varnish the wood when it's still flat, and you won't have any issues. Or any other waterproof wood finish. Polyurethane works wonders, but may have issues getting things to glue to it. Varnish should be easily glue able. You may be able to just glue some felt feet on the bottom corners of the wood, that will help it "self level", and will definitely help damp out any rocking that may happen.
You could have used some of the sprue/flash from the KV-2 model. The plastic glue would melt them to the bottom of the crews feet, no drilling, no mess. I have done this before and it worked great! You can heat them up and make them thinner as well as with a sharp point without having to cut or do anything else messy.
Loved it pal from start to finish well done it turned out epic I also love the new diversity of your blog and channel enjoyed the world of tank play on pc now really enjoy this modeling side to the channel
If you need material for pining models like the ones in your diorama use plain metal paper clips with no plastic covering. They're cheap and plentiful, perfect for something like this and large model parts. Just cut to the length you need with wire cutters and you're good to go. Just make sure to hold on to the bit you need when cutting as the bit you need will fly off and disappear if you don't.
Dear Jingles, If you use solid wood, you will always have a problem with warping if you apply things to only one side of the the wood. you should either use some thin plywood, or apply anything to the other side of it.
Not a bad first try. For a tank that weights more than a ton (I don't remember how much the KV-1 weighs) as the modeling compound used for the ground dries take the tracks and press them in behind where the tank has stopped. That way you have how it got to where it is. Good luck on the next one.
* Jingles, schoolboy error there: When you cover the base with tile grout, press the tank tracks into the material, that will give you some realistic track marks left in the mud behind the tank. Also, some rubber feet under the base can be tweaked to level it out. Nice job.
hey Jingles... easy solution for 'wire' to use for pinning. Paperclips. A small box of them in assorted sizes is dead easy to get from office supply shops, and places you can get school supplies for kids. Oh, and a bit more 'weathering' on the tank would help with the 'realism' of the diorama. Frank-ly speaking.
Hey Jingles, if your doing a desert diarama in the future of recommend using Gecko sand. It's super fine and when you apply PVA or a bonding agent it doesn't go matted and gloss flat like we modelling sands. Super cheap around £6 a bag and looks amazing. If you're feeling extra adventurous you can add a small amount of watered down paint to create different sand textures to add shadow effects for sand dunes or even oil spillages.
Next time try pushing the Vehicle into the ground before the Compound/Sculptamold dries to create tank tracks, it makes the tank look more settled into the ground. Looking forward to more Modeling videos!
if you would like to avoid the warping of the wood when you apply the glue to the thing when you glue the styrofoam on the bottom side of the board you must moisten the other side of the board. That is why it warped only one side had moisture and it warped with the uneven drying
This kind diorama has a lot of ground space. It’d be neat to see a shallow grave on the top and then a side view of the body on the side. Nothing grotesque, but like an obvi part of a uniform or something.
8:36 Actually Jingles, the mars surface has a red-brown surface, an chemical reaction of ironoxide and oxygen, wich we describe as rust. The surface you have is much more grey-white, very similar to the earths moon surface. Jingles? ...is that a shotgu...?
Hi jingles love the channel. Long time viewer. I was so glad to see you start these workshop Wednesday's. I also make modelmaking great diorama, Shame about the warp. Its the pva glue that caused it, as it contracts as it dries. You used the pva glue to attach the wooden base to the foam. But the pva was only on one side of the wood which started the warp you saw. Then as you flocked the foam and added more pva glue it made it worse. I liked your solution of just adding filler. You can help avoid it in the future by putting pva glue on the both sides of the wood when you'd attached the foam. That way as it dries it helps counteract the warp. It's a common issue with using pva. I have a video suggestion if you're open to it. A lot of model painter youtubers are showing off their piles of shame and counting the models in the pile. Check out midwinter minis latest video on his RUclips channel for an example. I'd like to see your pile of shame. See how it would compares (looks over at wardrobe hiding my pile of shame) looking forward to your next project. Keep safe
So... You forgot to treat your wood with mineral oil didn't you. Or more preferably linseed oil. The reason it warped is because you stored it in a cool, dry place. The remaining water within the wood escaped into that dry place and warped it. You need to treat your wood, especially recently cut wood, with a sealing oil or wax to keep it from warping.
Ok so now to flatten it: tape sheets of 80 grit sand paper face up onto a dead flat surface such as a ceramic floor tile (or wet the tile so it “sticks”) then rub your diorama back and forward over it until it stands flat. Also works well for sharpening chisels and other tools. Or put that pink body filler under it and sit it on the ceramic floor tile. Have a look at Luke Towan’s channel that guy is a genius at this stuff
Wrong. The wood warped in fear simply due to Jingles’s presence alone.
If he would have treated it with any kind of oil, he wouldn't have been able to permanetly glue anything to it - and it would still twist and warp, because oil wont stop the wood from taking or loosing moisture.
The best thing would have been to store it in the same area/climate as was cut in and be in after finishing the diorama, so the moisture level in the wood would have adjusted and then laquering it - and no, or almost no warpind and twisting would have happened.
And it would have been even better to use some plywod or chipboard... That stuff doesn't cause nearly as much problems than solid wood in the first place!
As a Ph.D. physics student who has done and led labs in which students have worked with transferring electric charges and had to contend with static electricity... its incredibly finicky stuff. The weather (humidity especially) can really affect how well these labs work. Not to mention the issues that could arise from having watches and rings on your hands, certain types of clothing which are really good at creating static electricity, and if you're dumb enough to work on a metal table top. So the fact that some people are having issues with the grass applicator isn't surprising at all.
Oh, and actually Jingles, the grass applicator doesn't really work as you say it does... or at least you're not being entirely accurate. The problem with asserting that there is a current going through the model is that you don't actually have a ground (or a completed circuit for that matter). So you're actually using the 9V battery to make your model into a capacitor for a short while. I could go on for ever but we all have things to do. XD
Jingles, here is the easy fix: Build a fitting frame from wooden strips around the base. Cut them according to the terrain and glue the warped wood into it. With that, the frame is flush on the ground and you get a neat border as well, instead of the unevenly cuutted styrofoam. Easy.
Exactly the sort of thing a friend of mine did with his Model Railway when it's baseboards were warping. We're talking about 5ft long by 3ft sections there and it worked like a charm.
That wire cutter is so satisfying to watch
It triggered my PTSD. I lost weeks of work because I was overzealous with the hot wire cutter. It was not fun...
I hate to be the "actually, Jingles" guy, but actually, Jingles, that's expanded polystyrene. Extruded polystyrene is something different.
@@soullessreaper9641 I think you're probably right. :)
@@soullessreaper9641 Lmao indeed!
@@Captain_Kremmen On your way then! Go on get gone! Shaft number 8 first branch to the left.
@@Captain_Kremmen You should be glad to be serving Lord Jingles!
Took him years to work his way up to that position, and in one "actually" moment, it's off back down to the depths with short canary lifespans.
Jingles, your Workshop Wednesday’s reminds me of Bob Ross painting one of his many pictures with a bit of British humor. Cheers.
JIngles, top tip... The crocodile clip can be used if you poke a pin into the surface you're applying static grass to and then attach the clip. You can prepare the surface by applying several pins before you begin and just relocate the clip as you work...
No video is complete without a visit from Akizuki. Oh, and nice diorama, mighty saltmine overlord.
I see the can of Hobgoblin. My dad had a bottle of that on a shelf. Looks good. Great job!
According to Google Translate
Sign 1: "Bridge, 20т", which I assume is a weight limit of 20 tons
Sign 2: "Stop! Front door closed", which probably means "Stop! No entry ahead"
Agree to the 1st one but sign 2 says: "STOP!" (or rather "HALT!", since it is formulated as an order) "DRIVE-THROUGH CLOSED" (road closed) "FRONT" (well, like war front)
Both signs together saying sth like "go there to the bridge but don't as the road is closed because of the front nearby". :)
@@luksweam And german prisoners are being marched that way too :)
@@Self-replicating_whatnot It would not be Jingles of not...
@@Self-replicating_whatnot to the front prisoners!
@@platapus112
I'm sure evil gnome overlord would have them dig the trenches for the advanced positions :)
On the learning curve? You are doing Great Paul!
Keep it up and enjoy.
Say hello to Rita and please enjoy your quarantine?
YOU ARE THE BOMB ! ! !
Dear gnome overload I have two solutions to the warping board problem. 1 glue a wooden frame round the edge which is deeper then the base there by lifting it.
2 for the next base manufactured wood such as MDF
Keep up the good work!
alternatively, as it's humidity that warps the wood plank, you may stop applying huge amounts water based glue :D
One of the greatest things a about diaramas is that you can make them very cheaply with just your imagination and patience great to see them coming back...
Hats off to you Jingles. I’ve been doing modelling for 15 years now and I can’t even achieve that result yet!
I definitely enjoy watching these videos and it's cool that some people leaving you tips.
For pinning models, either to stabilize parts you're connecting to each other or to attach them to a base, an excellent wire to use can be found anywhere they sell stationary or office products. When they sell it, they call it "paper clips". Paper clip wire has a small diameter, but it's very strong and stiff in short lengths. Yet you can bend it if necessary, and standard wire cutters will trim it.
Pin vises are called that because they are a form of vise, not a drill. They were designed to hold long, thin cylindrical objects that would be awkward to hold in a person's fingers, and are used by jewelers and watchmakers. Because they are a handy little tool, their use was expanded to hold precision knife blades and drill bits, but that wasn't the intention when they were first designed.
Nice work. The sprue trees you've cut the kit parts off of are a useful source of material for lots of things. For example, short pieces of it heated and stretched to form a pointy end would make nice pins for attaching the figures to the base. Being the same plastic, they would adhere readily to the bottom of the figure with a bit of modeling glue.
Excellent job!
For the base, you can use adhesive felt circles on the bottom of the wood base to make it even.
Ale, the secret ingredient to masterful diorama making
For future reference Jingles, You need to coat and seal the wood base before you start slapping wet stuff like clay onto it. It's the moisture causing it to warp. A couple coats of a good varnish will do the job and make it look pretty too.
Looks great Jingles. I use straightened paper clips to make pins for the feet...also handy for pinning resin parts together. You can also use them to clip to your static grass applicator when applying grass in smaller areas. Cheers 😊
14:00 When you collapse from serious vodka withdrowal.
Great diorama! And a cheap suggestion for "pegs" to hold your figures down to the styrene... stretched sprue. You can make it any thickness you want, it glues well to the base, and you already have a plentiful supply of it. :) Keep up the great work!
If it helps in the future, I recommend plywood for bases, cut to size, you can hide the plywood edges with iron-on veneer. If you haunt your local DIY store they sometimes have an off cuts bin which can contain suitable sized pieces you can take for a small donation to their chosen charity (well, it's the case in my local B&Q). Iron-on veneer can be a tad tricky to begin with, splinters are NO joke, but persevere. Because the wood grain is at right angles each layer it never warps.
Nice advertising of the Wychbold modeling product, got to love a Goblin. 😉
Great to see a master at work, good beer choice too
Most homes are dryer than in places where lumberyard store their wood so it tends to dry out further which can cause it to warp or crack. I prefer using MDF if I plan on painting the base. plenty strong enough easier to work with and gives a very smooth finish due to it's fine and consistent texture. if I want it to look like actual wood I'll use actual wood but ill turn it into a box with the diorama seated within. Mostly for ships with a sea diorama. If you want to use a board of wood as is you have to treat it before drying it further. it can prevent warping, though over time it still might. ^^
Nice build though, I like it!
I would probably use mdf for the base and then just frame the whole thing in real wood. After all if you paint the mdf either way the only part of it that looks wooden would be the underside. Would that work?
i'm more impressed by your choice of beer, a very nice beverage that.
A few tips from a model railroader:
- Add some dry pigment to the scenery base (tile grout or Sculptamold). If the scenery ever gets chipped - particularly along the edges - it will prevent glaring white or grey spots from showing up on your diorama.
- When using real dirt as a scenery base, collect dirt that is lighter than the desired color. The weaker light indoors will cause the dirt to appear darker on the diorama than it did when collecting it outside.
- When using real dirt as a scenery base, bake it in an oven between 250 and 400 degrees Fahrenheit (about 120 to 200 degrees Celsius) for an hour to kill all of the microorganisms in the soil. Then sift the sterilized dirt through various sized screens.
- For a coarse forest floor cover, bake some dry leaves in the oven (same process as dirt) before mulching them up in an old coffee grinder or blender. (Depending on the device, it may be necessary to add a little water before mulching.) Sift the mulched leaves to the desired coarseness and apply to the diorama.
- When sterilizing natural scenery materials in the oven be warned IT WILL PROBABLY SMELL BAD. A small old toaster oven out in the garage or near a window is greatly preferable to using the kitchen oven. Do not leave the oven unattended while baking.
- Used tea leaves and coffee grounds can be used to add some variation to the ground cover.
"If all you have is a sharp knife..."
Sharpen the hell out of the blade even more and keep sharpening the blade every few inches of cut.
expanded polystyrene kills the Cutting edges of blades.
Yes, you can sharpen disposable blades.
15:37 "Pin vice" is the name of the tool other than the drill you put into it; the "handle" if you will, or "hand grip" if you prefer. Because what it does is that it is a handle with a thing that in turn grips a cylindrical object at the end. A thing that grips another thing is a "vice", and a cylindrical object is usually a "pin". So the thing holding the drill is a "pin vice". You could call it a "drill vice" because that's usually what's being gripped, but the original name from its original purpose has stuck.
For your standing up figures, try holding a pin in pliers, heat up the point and melt it into the figure's foot. When it is set you can snip off the excess of the pin and jam it into the ground.
This is spectacular. It turned out fabulous; I like too.
Tip for the future: Use 10mm MDF or plywood as a base. MDF may twist a little when wet with glue, so seal both sides. It'll flatten out once the glue is dry anyhow ;) That PVA glue you paid a fiver for is very over-priced, normal PVA glue can be got half a litre at a time at Poundland. What you've done there is brilliant, it's much better than I could have done, even back in the day when my eyes worked properly! Well done sir, you should be very proud of that!
Plywood is good for model railroads and dioramas. If you build the base through the grout/model/plaster stage before assembling the tank, you can use the tracks to make tracks. You can use a heat source (foam cutter, soldering iron, match) to heat up a wire and stick into the human models' foot. The wire should stick into the "ground".
Stronk and beautiful. I just unlocked my KV-2 and the 152mm howitzer, and I have ROFL-stomped on every single tank ever. KV-2: when you absolutely definitely have to shoot through a daft cardboard tube, and you still make it work amazing.
The engineering world call that lil drill thingy a 'Pin Chuck'.
The wood warping issue is a bain of any woodworker, I'd recommend using Plywood as the grains of each 'ply' are at 90 degrees to each other, so it significantly reduces warpage. Its not full proof, but it helps. The wood warping in the first place is probably because it it still had moisture in it and as it dries it contracts, and depending on which cross section of the tree it was taken from will affect how evenly it contracts. Go for plywood or MDF. I hate MDF but you won't be plagued by warpage issues.
Happy Modelling!
You can use a paperclip for pinning as well, if you straighten it a bit and cut it size :) I know, such old school office supplies are hardly in fashion anymore, but at least this way they can earn their keep.
Thanks Jingles. Nice job.
Fyi, a single plank of wood that size will always warp, especially when you add a heap of water based glue to one side. Best to seal it as soon as you get it, to lessen warping.
I would recomend laminated timber or a composite product.
Love the finished job.
How fascinating! I am so glad you are so creative, that is why I watch your workshop! hee..heeee
You could use plywood for the base. That wont warp.
Or just take a hand plane to the wood
@@craniusdominus8234 or run it trough a planer.
@Jesus H Christ indeed, I used a pair of big ass 200×120×1.3cm plywood sheets to provide better battlefield support for my TT wargaming. After 1 year of storage and regular use, they were no longer flat.
I used super duper glue to stand the people up on my M41 Walker Bulldog dio. I had to scratch away a little space through the base ground layer to give it something to stick to. Several years later and it's still standing and it's been through a house move.
Also Jingles, you do realize that one of your resting crew members has the muzzle of his Mosin pointed straight at his mates nuts!
You can use old paper clips, safety pins, or old copper wire(solid not the twisted kind) to use for pinning besides the brass wire you get from hobby shops too.
Part of making models is improvising as every model has its own set of hidden challenges.
This is a pretty damn good video. My dude you should actually think of making a series of these builds with these commentaries. I would eat them all up, opposing all the modelling youtubers who stay silent during the builds and stuff, this would definitely stand out.
Hobgoblin gold a man of taste I see
Coming from a Model Railway background, the best thing to cover your landscape after forming it is normal household filler. Mix it with water and PVA glue as the PVA gives it some flexibility so it doesn't crack. Much cheaper then any of the officially titled modelling compounds you can purchase and works just as well.
If you have any wire twist ties (often discovered breeding in the backs of kitchen drawers) you can use the wire from those to fix your standing figures.
Awesome!.. Nice work Jingles!
You are actually getting good at this,that is not what you promised us.
It's a pin vice because it grips a pin shaped rod, like your drill bit. Also, try paperclips for pins. They're cheap, a small box of them could have you set for years. Just cut the length you need with wire cutters. It's what I use when I need to pin a battletech miniature or a toy that my nieces broke.
If you don't have wire or cocktail sticks, sewing pins and needles work really well.
eyy very noice!! how about muddy terrain mr jingles for next next time? and maybe adding some tank thread mark along the road?
>>tank thread mark along the road
I tend to use paper clips straightened out and cut to size for pins
To fix the base, you can level it using the same modeling compound pressed onto greeseproof paper to level it, or use a metal base/angle iron cut to size like a picture frame and sit the base in it.
Jingles! You can make pins to pin your miniatures to their base or parts onto them very easily by cutting small paperclips down. Don't use your hobby nipper to do it though, the blades usually aren't hard enough and could get nicked. It's what I do, cheap and you always have enough.
beer, cigarette butts, akizuki, and jingles soothing voice. *now THAT'S what i subbed for*
Nice going mate, honest wee Dio. Keep it up.
Little tip jingles when attaching figures to the diorama as you said drill a wire in the figure and pin it in. But i won't bother with the wedging. Just use a strong super glue like loctite. It works so much easier just hold the figure in place for about 30 seconds and Bob's your uncle hes in place. Good Diorama in any case.
I am liking Jingles!
Good show!
Jingle a small tip if you want to glue something with PVA glue, put bit of PVA on for example your diorama on the ground and apply bit of superglue under the shoe of a soldier the superglue.
The Superglue wants moisture to dry (harden) and the PVA wants the moisture out of it to dry.
Ahoj Jingles, the wood warping, same thing happens if you paint one side of a piece of plywood. The solution is a dilute wash of pva on the other side, serves as primer for varnish too.
The terrain looks great. Not only for a first try, just great. But the KV2 looks brand new. Try weathering the tank so it looks like it's been on the battlefield. Compaire WOT 0.6 with 1.0 HD. Keep building these vids are great.
thats fantastic! well done Jingles.
Fantastic work !
I use foamed pvc for basing terrain/dioramas, it can be cut with a work knife and doesn't warp.
Dang Jingles, that looks good!
Love it!! Currently working on the Tamiya Hanomag 251.
Had me looking up that Hobgoblin beer 🍺 😁
When are you and Lindybeige going to play Operation Crossfire, Jingles?
Stabilize the base board by adding thin angle aluminum on the base and wooden trim along the sides to hide it.
Mr. Jingles,
Get some rubber feet for the wooden base. You can either screw them into place or get the self adhesive type. They will help you get stability back for your diorama base. Some penetrating wood oil on the bottom and sides of the board ( carefully applied ) will help a lot after the fact..
Instead of solid wood use plywood or MDF for your base. It won't warp, is usually a bit cheaper, and you can frequently find pieces precut to about the size you need.
Varnish the wood when it's still flat, and you won't have any issues. Or any other waterproof wood finish. Polyurethane works wonders, but may have issues getting things to glue to it. Varnish should be easily glue able.
You may be able to just glue some felt feet on the bottom corners of the wood, that will help it "self level", and will definitely help damp out any rocking that may happen.
You could have used some of the sprue/flash from the KV-2 model. The plastic glue would melt them to the bottom of the crews feet, no drilling, no mess. I have done this before and it worked great! You can heat them up and make them thinner as well as with a sharp point without having to cut or do anything else messy.
Loved it pal from start to finish well done it turned out epic I also love the new diversity of your blog and channel enjoyed the world of tank play on pc now really enjoy this modeling side to the channel
To level your board out, put a rubber footing on the bottom in each of the corners. Then cut down the ones need to level it out.
Just a thought. Have any metal paper clip. Cut to length. Heat wire press into base of figurine. Then cut to length. And press into styrene.
If you need material for pining models like the ones in your diorama use plain metal paper clips with no plastic covering. They're cheap and plentiful, perfect for something like this and large model parts. Just cut to the length you need with wire cutters and you're good to go. Just make sure to hold on to the bit you need when cutting as the bit you need will fly off and disappear if you don't.
Dear Jingles, If you use solid wood, you will always have a problem with warping if you apply things to only one side of the the wood. you should either use some thin plywood, or apply anything to the other side of it.
Not a bad first try. For a tank that weights more than a ton (I don't remember how much the KV-1 weighs) as the modeling compound used for the ground dries take the tracks and press them in behind where the tank has stopped. That way you have how it got to where it is. Good luck on the next one.
* Jingles, schoolboy error there: When you cover the base with tile grout, press the tank tracks into the material, that will give you some realistic track marks left in the mud behind the tank. Also, some rubber feet under the base can be tweaked to level it out. Nice job.
You can use paperclips.. bent straight, and cut to length.
It's called a pin vice because you can use different tips such a drill bits, chisels, blades etc.
Great job Jingles
Nice work sir!
hey Jingles... easy solution for 'wire' to use for pinning. Paperclips. A small box of them in assorted sizes is dead easy to get from office supply shops, and places you can get school supplies for kids.
Oh, and a bit more 'weathering' on the tank would help with the 'realism' of the diorama.
Frank-ly speaking.
Very nice diorama, only one more thing needed, some tank track marks on the ground leading from the edge of the diorama to the rear of the tank.
Hey Jingles, if your doing a desert diarama in the future of recommend using Gecko sand. It's super fine and when you apply PVA or a bonding agent it doesn't go matted and gloss flat like we modelling sands. Super cheap around £6 a bag and looks amazing.
If you're feeling extra adventurous you can add a small amount of watered down paint to create different sand textures to add shadow effects for sand dunes or even oil spillages.
Next time try pushing the Vehicle into the ground before the Compound/Sculptamold dries to create tank tracks, it makes the tank look more settled into the ground. Looking forward to more Modeling videos!
Nice! Jingles drinks hobgoblin! :D My favorite ale! Also - it would be looking much better with some wear and tear on the tank.
if you would like to avoid the warping of the wood when you apply the glue to the thing when you glue the styrofoam on the bottom side of the board you must moisten the other side of the board. That is why it warped only one side had moisture and it warped with the uneven drying
That wire cutter was weirdly satisfying to watch.
You could use a piece of straightened paper clip as a pin to hold the soldiers up or in place.
This kind diorama has a lot of ground space. It’d be neat to see a shallow grave on the top and then a side view of the body on the side. Nothing grotesque, but like an obvi part of a uniform or something.
You could also vary the layers of dirt with slightly different colored mixes, and add different mixes of sand or rock.
It’s called a pin vice because you are essentially keeping
the pin in with a vice like pressure and that’s how you switch pins of course
8:36
Actually Jingles,
the mars surface has a red-brown surface, an chemical reaction of ironoxide and oxygen, wich we describe as rust.
The surface you have is much more grey-white, very similar to the earths moon surface.
Jingles? ...is that a shotgu...?
I like it too. Very good start I say.
You could get a thin plastic pin and melt the tip, then press it onto the feet of the soldiers and let it dry. Then just stick it in the ground
Hi jingles love the channel. Long time viewer. I was so glad to see you start these workshop Wednesday's. I also make modelmaking great diorama, Shame about the warp. Its the pva glue that caused it, as it contracts as it dries. You used the pva glue to attach the wooden base to the foam. But the pva was only on one side of the wood which started the warp you saw. Then as you flocked the foam and added more pva glue it made it worse. I liked your solution of just adding filler. You can help avoid it in the future by putting pva glue on the both sides of the wood when you'd attached the foam. That way as it dries it helps counteract the warp. It's a common issue with using pva. I have a video suggestion if you're open to it. A lot of model painter youtubers are showing off their piles of shame and counting the models in the pile. Check out midwinter minis latest video on his RUclips channel for an example. I'd like to see your pile of shame. See how it would compares (looks over at wardrobe hiding my pile of shame) looking forward to your next project. Keep safe