I always opt for GYW shoes. I find that they are considerably more comfortable, especially if you decide to opt for a hand welted shoes. I have a pair of Enzo Bonafe hand made shoes and Vass hand made shoes. They are beautifully made shoes which showcase the crafmanship that goes into hand made shoes
Came across an odd way of constructing shoes. They call it blake rapid but it doesn't have a full midsole. I asked my shoe maker how they do it and why and they said their customer base found goodyear and a full midsoled blake rapid too stiff so they came up with blake stitching a welt instead of a midsole then fill the void with cork after which the outsole is stitched to the welt. I was wondering if you guys have come across anything similar and if there are any glaring cons I need to be aware of.
Hi George, It's not uncommon to fill the space between a Blake stitch welt with cork in order to produce extra cushion. Most brands that want to offer a durable shoe will add a midsole. However, you can create a slim profile by not including one and just adding an outsole. Indeed, it's far more flexible but it may not be as hardy for everyday use. You'll often see this construction on things like loafers, opera pumps, and sleek formal slippers. All the best, CP
I'm still breaking in my Berwick 4188 derbys: it's been for more than two years now, lol. Need to say that I wear them only once or maybe twice a week (or even two weeks), so…
It's funny that the the left shoe fits like a slipper for a quite long time, but the right one… The insole seems to behave in a strange way: it stil cannot adapt to my foot sole.
@@n0c0mmentsplease That's very odd that one should have worn in and not the other. It could be the construction but maybe it could have something to do with your gait? Do you ever experience anything like this with other shoes?
We used to think that but we're not so hasty nowadays. Sure, anything is better than a cemented sole but Blake stitching actually has a lot of benefits. We just published a video on the pros and cons of the Blake stitch. Check it out and let us know what you think!
First off, your graphic for Goodyear Welted shows a BLAKE stitch?! Secondly, if you are going to make a fairly long video, then instead of repeating points multiple times, at least mention that Goodyear welted shoes, usually have a middle layer of cork which takes the shape of your foot over time, and is therefore especially comfortable. Have liked your video despite these criticisms. 🙂
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I always opt for GYW shoes. I find that they are considerably more comfortable, especially if you decide to opt for a hand welted shoes. I have a pair of Enzo Bonafe hand made shoes and Vass hand made shoes. They are beautifully made shoes which showcase the crafmanship that goes into hand made shoes
Fair enough! Hand welting is something that we mentioned as the budget is quite different, but you make a good point.
Came across an odd way of constructing shoes. They call it blake rapid but it doesn't have a full midsole. I asked my shoe maker how they do it and why and they said their customer base found goodyear and a full midsoled blake rapid too stiff so they came up with blake stitching a welt instead of a midsole then fill the void with cork after which the outsole is stitched to the welt. I was wondering if you guys have come across anything similar and if there are any glaring cons I need to be aware of.
Hi George,
It's not uncommon to fill the space between a Blake stitch welt with cork in order to produce extra cushion. Most brands that want to offer a durable shoe will add a midsole. However, you can create a slim profile by not including one and just adding an outsole. Indeed, it's far more flexible but it may not be as hardy for everyday use. You'll often see this construction on things like loafers, opera pumps, and sleek formal slippers.
All the best,
CP
What are those black Dainite boots from? Those are nice 👍🏼
They are from Allen Edmonds.
A go to for me during the winter when its wet / snowy out.
Cheers - Paul
I'm still breaking in my Berwick 4188 derbys: it's been for more than two years now, lol. Need to say that I wear them only once or maybe twice a week (or even two weeks), so…
I was about to say that it certainly can take a while but TWO YEARS? Wow!
It's funny that the the left shoe fits like a slipper for a quite long time, but the right one… The insole seems to behave in a strange way: it stil cannot adapt to my foot sole.
@@n0c0mmentsplease That's very odd that one should have worn in and not the other. It could be the construction but maybe it could have something to do with your gait? Do you ever experience anything like this with other shoes?
The pros totally outweighs the cons of a GYW shoe.
A GYW is a far better investment vs a glued and blake stitched shoe.
We used to think that but we're not so hasty nowadays. Sure, anything is better than a cemented sole but Blake stitching actually has a lot of benefits. We just published a video on the pros and cons of the Blake stitch. Check it out and let us know what you think!
212 steps
Thanks, Anon!
First off, your graphic for Goodyear Welted shows a BLAKE stitch?! Secondly, if you are going to make a fairly long video, then instead of repeating points multiple times, at least mention that Goodyear welted shoes, usually have a middle layer of cork which takes the shape of your foot over time, and is therefore especially comfortable. Have liked your video despite these criticisms. 🙂
Thanks for the feedback!