You're actually halfway right. The man who invented the Goodyear machine for stitching the Goodyear welt is the son of the founder of the Goodyear tire company. The tire company was also one of the few manufacturers of rubber shoe soles back in the day. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Goodyear_welt
You honestly can't beat a goodyear welt. In my opinion if your looking for a great dress shoe try Allen Edmonds. They have real leather and goodyear welt shoes.
lol, you are right, so it's better to invest in the 2 best winter boots, one of them for staying dry and warm other to look like a winter boot but more stylish. I have learned if u live in a cold city and you wear boots to go to work and wait for the bus or do a lot of walking on snowy sidewalks etc, you'll need a nice Pajar. Best Canadian boots to have. the second boot must be Sorel. Always have 2 winter boots so u can them 24 hours of resting peroid.
Just for the record, the method is called in Spanish "empalmillado". My two grandfathers were shoemakers and used to handmade shoes that way. Great video, well explained and concise.
Great video. Thanks for the lesson. Just to add: "The machinery used for the Goodyear Welt process was invented in 1869 by Charles Goodyear Jr., the son of Charles Goodyear (the self-taught chemist and manufacturing engineer who developed vulcanized rubber).
My father had shoe shop in early 60s one thing I remember him saying was when buying new shoes make sure they have Goodyear welt on them, only problem I had was that I was a kid about 7 years old and only would ware tennis shoes at that time Ahahahahahaaha!
Great explanation! Especially comparing which are more waterproof. I only wish you had explained why is it called “Goodyear” etc. What does it have to do with the tire company?
The Goodyear welt is actually named for the machinery used to create the bond. It was invented in 1869 by Charles Goodyear jr. - the son of Charles Goodyear who invented vulcanized rubber and ultimately the tires we use today. You're right on the money!
Very informative video, big up! Norwegian welt style is very popular in traditional hiking boots in countries around the Alps. One example is Hanwag models Stuiben and Bergler made in Germany. But other german, swiss etc. shoe brands also make very robust double stiched alp shoes. Worth to take a look at!
Wow! Great video Carl! I've just recently discovered your channel. Very informative and you are very well spoken. A lot of information...you should be a cobbler!!
My dressed leather shoes are Norwegian welted, they are timeless pieces, durable, waterproof and rare. Not a lot of companies in the world produce them. I'd rather pay for quality than quantity.
Well yes, I mentioned that I didn’t cover every single method. The Goodyear welt is only a true Goodyear welt if it’s performed with a Goodyear welting machine. Hand welting is better in almost every way though.
bro you are the man. I have learned so much from you. You truly are the best male lifestyle/fashion guy on youtube. oh like others that are click bait or promos
Is the Goodyear welt named after the person who invented it or the tire & rubber company? I was always under the impression it was the latter... After watching this video I'm thinking I am wrong.
It actually was! The welt is really named after the machinery which makes it, but that was invented by Charles Goodyear who was the son of the founder of Goodyear.
It's so hard to find women's Good year welt shoes. Some will make good year welt for the men's shoes but not on their womens. I was finally able to find a company that makes a decent amount of women's shoes that are also good year welt, just got my first pair and currently breaking them in.
Only 5 jackets! Great pics! Surprised you don’t have any waxed canvas in your pics. Did you end up already getting rid of your huckberry waxed trucker. That would be in my five!
The best rubber soles, Dainite full soles. For boots Good year welted. For Dress shoes, I highly recommend spike Dainite full sholes. For snow or winter boots, Thermoplastic Rubber Shoe Soles
I think you have generalized Goodyear welting with the more traditional hand- (or machine-) stitched welt. There is an operational difference between these. Goodyear welting has a preformed rubber or leather welt that can be wrapped around and then glued onto the edge of the insole. After it has bonded, the welt is then machine stitched to the insole. With hand-stitched welting, a series of transverse hemp grooves are made through the upper-insole join to a depth of half the insole thickness with a curved awl. The welt is then stitched to the upper and insole by running the waxed hemp through the welt and through the transverse grooves.
Not all goodyear welt shoes have stitching all the way through the bottom. Often stitched just through the midsole with the outsole glued over. That's better for everything that isn't dress shoes because the stitching doesn't get worn through by the ground. For work type boots, stitching through the outsole is frankly stupid.
Excellent video, for more years, than I can remember I have bought Loakes men's boots with a leather sole, recently I contacted the agent here in Ireland to order a pair of Loakes Bedale boots only to be told that they no longer supply leather soles and offer only gum rubber soles. At £215.00 I think it's a cheat for as you say rubber soles are glued on and therefore cheaper to produce and impossible to get resoled here in Ireland, yet both my son and I can get our leather-soled boots re-soled locally on average six times swapping between work boots and dress boots. So much for choice and putting the customer first.
Rapid Blake is by far the best method between the two giving sturdy and water resistant footwear. Stitchdown is the only true water proof method with or without an added protective welt on top of the upper.
I have to agree with some of the comments on this video, this honestly is the best video explaining different types of shoe welting. I have read a lot of articles and watched many videos but never really understood it completely! Thanks Carl, you're a very good presenter as well!
Thank you for the kind words! My hope is that I can explain things simply enough to make sense to guys like me who only need a working knowledge of shoe construction. Every guide I've seen is either oversimplified or way too complex, hopefully this hits a sweet spot for someone just looking to increase their knowledge.
Great vid, can anyone help answer my overall question below? According to it's definition a WELT is: A leather rim sewn around the edge of a shoe upper to which the sole is attached. And honestly, that's exactly what I think of when I hear the words "Goodyear welt" or "storm welt", or just the word "welt" alone, for that matter. But what about a "blake welt" aka "blake sewn"? A blake welt/sewn doesn't have a piece of leather (or other material) around the rim of the midsole, so does it even constitute as a welt? It's missing the seemingly most important part of a welt, i.e. the leather rim (unless it does have it and if so please tell me, lol). Is this why I often see it being referred to as "blake swen" as opposed to a blake welt? And if a blake welt is indeed a type of welt then the above definition needs to be revised. Because a blake welt is a process where a stitch goes through the top of the midsole all the way through the bottom of the outsole via a stitch. That stitch continuously goes around the rim of the midsole joining the midsole and outsole. Now according to Google's definition above, this is not a welt beacuse it doesn't have a piece of material like leather that is sewn around the rim of the midsole. I would like to know what you guys think about the welt on this boot in the link below. Their website describes it as having a "Thick leather welt". It's quite hard to make out but when I zoomed in really close I can see what appears to be a leather welt on top of the midsloe. But this clearly isn't a Goodyear welt, so what is it? If it does have a leather welt but isn't a Goodyear/storm/Norwegian welt then what could it be? I'm so confused, lol. Help. goo.gl/dJCUvV
I think you are amongst the majority of men who are thrown by the Blake stitch and Goodyear welt. In the beginning I thought for sure there was a piece of rubber tire on Goodyear welted shoes! You're correct, the "welt" is a strip of leather which acts as a buffer or trim between the sole and the lower. You'll see different takes on this with some being larger (Grenson Shoes, Dub Trio, and most Japanese shoemakers) and others being smaller like most Italian styles. The Blake stitch is just that, and not a welt at all. It's a rather simple concept with no strip of leather and instead relying on stitching to secure the upper to the lower. Blake rapid is yet another version of this method. The one thing I didn't mention in this video is Sitchdown construction which is almost the opposite of Blake stitch with the upper being turned outward and flanged, then stitched to the sole. You'll see this on a lot of Danner boots. I hope this clears things up!
Carl Murawski I really appreciate your feedback! And thanks for confirming my assumption. Hey, did you take a look at the boots in the link I posted? I would really like to get your professional opinion on what type of stitch or welt the shoe is constructed with. They describe the boot as having "a thick leather welt". And honestly, when you zoom in close on the midsole next to the toebox of the image of the single boot (second image from the top down, facing left) there appears to be a brown leather strip/welt on said midsole. But because they don't name the type of welt that the shoe allegedly possesses, it makes me think that it's not a legitimate welt and more of a blake stitch (or a similar type of stitch) with some leather around the midsole to mimic a Goodyear type welt. And if that's untrue, wouldn't that be false advertisement? Thanks again, for the help.
This video helped me understand better about Goodyear welts. I am buying a pair of cowboy boots and they have a Goodyear welt. Thank you for breaking it down for this 58 year old lady. You are awesome. Keep it up 💯
I'm actually buying a pair boots in Mexico..one of the major selling points was Goodyear welt...so came here to understand what it was. Turns out I bought a good pair.
Thank you. I've always wondered about Goodyear vs. something else. Now I know. I'm an informed consumer. And I now know that I have a pair of 270 Goodyear welt boots. Cool.
Hi Carl good video. I have a question. I wear a lot of military boots, especially Italian made amphibious boots made for parachutists and commando raids. They are very expensive and being waterproof they have rubber soles usually Vibram. They get a lot of abuse and now im coming to re-sole I am told they can be resoled easily? do you have any experience of these types of boots?
Thanks for the explanations. Where did you find the diagrams? I want to post/link your video on my website with a pictorial and I really like the cutaway pictures you show in this one. Thanks, Hillary Marek from Hillary's of Houston Luxury Clothing and Vintage Boutiques
Thank you Hillary, I got the diagrams from a number of different sources. Some were advertisements from shoe manufacturers, and others were simply a Google image search. I wish I had more specific information for you, but this was a few months back and my memory isn't as good as it once was.
Well thanks for giving me a place to start. I'll check out Google and see what I can dig up. Lmk if you ever want to collaborate. I have an extensive collection and I'm always open to brand ambassador agreements. I supply the luxury you supply the talent and I comp you with some of the best heritage brand clothing out there for your time.
What about Stitch Down construction ? I see some good brand use that, like Viberg, Truman,... Can you tell the pros and cons of this method and compare with GYW method
It's difficult to explain without a visual but stitch down is essentially where the material from the upper is flanged out and then secured to the lower. It's similar in many ways to the Goodyear Welt but missing the actual welt piece of material on top and is now underneath.
Carl Murawski many people said that boots made by Stitch Down construction can not resole many time like GYW. I like the Viberg service boots but if it can not resole many time like Goodyear welt i will not be happy about a high price boots like that, the Viberg Shell Cordovan is crazy expensive but they're all Stitch Down method :(
Don't bother resoling cemented shoes. Some cobblers will stitch the delaminated sole back on. However, cemented construction isn't the only cost saving measure manufacturers use. Often cemented shoes will be made of cheaper genuine leather rather than more expensive top grain leather.
I glad I found this video. I had no clue what a Goodyear welt was. My first thought was. What does a car tire have to do with shoes/boot? Thanks for the video.
Excellent and informative video. TIL how different types of sole construction are best adapted to various uses and environments, and are not just about the look of the shoe. It also explains why some shoe types are more expensive, and how manufacturers can simulate the look of more expensive construction, along with tips on how to identify those styles. I wish women’s shoes weren’t mostly garbage.
Have you ever encountered a shoes construction "Blake - rapid stich"? I just stumbled into knowing it while I looked for shoe construction on Google? I found there were kind of a greal deal of articles talking about it but i didn't any specific illustrations for it. Could You do a video to verify blake rapid stich?
I’m looking for a well cushioned hiking boot or walking shoe that the cushioning doesn’t compress or lose its cushion. EVA cushioning wears out in my shoes within 2 months.
I cant tell what I have. Seems like goodyear because of the stiches and i think its cork between the upper and outer sole but has a rubber sole which doesnt show the stitches through the rubber. Could a rubber sole be glued onto the bottom and cover the goodyear welt stiches? Boots seem stiff. UK brand called Dundee I cant find anything on (made in portugal) a cap toe boot with hook laces at the top.
I literally thought Goodyear Welt meant it used Goodyear rubber lol. Great video and now I understand more about shoe construction. Interesting stuff!
Don't feel bad, I thought the same thing LOL
You could. Old winter tires can be cut into a good shoe sole.
@@gusjeazer The soles of the first prototype Dr Martens were made out of damaged aircraft tyres
Same. Buying boots in Mexico and Goodyear welt was the selling point, but didn't know what it meant, so jus figured it was the rubber sole.
You're actually halfway right. The man who invented the Goodyear machine for stitching the Goodyear welt is the son of the founder of the Goodyear tire company. The tire company was also one of the few manufacturers of rubber shoe soles back in the day.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Goodyear_welt
Probably one of the best video of explaining shoe construction ive ever seen (i read many of them)
Thank you very much! That’s high praise.
I agree. I watched a few. This is definitely the best.
I agree
I agree :)
Indeed
As a complete amateur trying to build my own shoe, this was very helpful.
Broken down perfectly!
Very educational! Thank you for sharing. 👏❤️🥰
Thanks for watching!
You honestly can't beat a goodyear welt. In my opinion if your looking for a great dress shoe try Allen Edmonds. They have real leather and goodyear welt shoes.
solid vid
superb video
Much appreciated!
Somebody tell me where I can find those red denim jeans in the thumbnail. They look amazing
Those are the Japan Fire jeans by Gustin.
This is where you end up when you have 20 boots in your Amazon cart you can't decide on
lol, you are right, so it's better to invest in the 2 best winter boots, one of them for staying dry and warm other to look like a winter boot but more stylish. I have learned if u live in a cold city and you wear boots to go to work and wait for the bus or do a lot of walking on snowy sidewalks etc, you'll need a nice Pajar. Best Canadian boots to have. the second boot must be Sorel. Always have 2 winter boots so u can them 24 hours of resting peroid.
Just for the record, the method is called in Spanish "empalmillado". My two grandfathers were shoemakers and used to handmade shoes that way. Great video, well explained and concise.
zapato :v
You're a good presenter Carl. Concise delivery with naturalness to your voice which is pleasant to listen to. Keep it up.
Thank you so much!
+1
After 4 videos i finally got a clear answer to what a goodyear welt is, thanks man!
I learned English and learned about methods of shoe construction, your accent is clear thanks
Great video. Thanks for the lesson. Just to add: "The machinery used for the Goodyear Welt process was invented in 1869 by Charles Goodyear Jr., the son of Charles Goodyear (the self-taught chemist and manufacturing engineer who developed vulcanized rubber).
Hahahaha...Shoe Goo! That stuff has prolonged the death of many cheap shoes that I have owned.
Great simplified explanation for those not in the know! Very easy to understand and illustrated man! Well done.
Thanks buddy! All the guides I’ve read either over simplify it or explain construction as if you’re a professional cobbler.
I thought it was the bump left when you get smacked by a steel-belted radial.
My father had shoe shop in early 60s one thing I remember him saying was when buying new shoes make sure they have Goodyear welt on them, only problem I had was that I was a kid about 7 years old and only would ware tennis shoes at that time Ahahahahahaaha!
Great explanation! Especially comparing which are more waterproof. I only wish you had explained why is it called “Goodyear” etc. What does it have to do with the tire company?
The Goodyear welt is actually named for the machinery used to create the bond. It was invented in 1869 by Charles Goodyear jr. - the son of Charles Goodyear who invented vulcanized rubber and ultimately the tires we use today. You're right on the money!
I am a footwear manufacturer and retailer. Your video has been the most concise and knowledgeable presentation of constructions. Good Job.!
Great exploration of the various shoe constructions out there. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you for watching!
Very informative video, big up! Norwegian welt style is very popular in traditional hiking boots in countries around the Alps. One example is Hanwag models Stuiben and Bergler made in Germany. But other german, swiss etc. shoe brands also make very robust double stiched alp shoes. Worth to take a look at!
Wow! Great video Carl! I've just recently discovered your channel. Very informative and you are very well spoken. A lot of information...you should be a cobbler!!
My dressed leather shoes are Norwegian welted, they are timeless pieces, durable, waterproof and rare. Not a lot of companies in the world produce them. I'd rather pay for quality than quantity.
100% Agreed!
Excellent synopsis! Entertaining and informative. Thank you!
Thanks for watching!!!
What about Hand Welted? There is a difference between factory made Goodyear and Hand Welted.
Well yes, I mentioned that I didn’t cover every single method. The Goodyear welt is only a true Goodyear welt if it’s performed with a Goodyear welting machine. Hand welting is better in almost every way though.
If you can't resolve it means more crap in landfill!! NOT GOOD
Very true!
You're easily the best channel for boots to be informed, thanks for all your work. Seriously
I appreciate that! Thank you so much Jose, you made my day.
bro you are the man. I have learned so much from you. You truly are the best male lifestyle/fashion guy on youtube. oh like others that are click bait or promos
Thanks so much man! I sincerely appreciate that, you made my day.
Let's not forget the Badyear welt "2020" 🤦🏼♂️
Lol
Is the Goodyear welt named after the person who invented it or the tire & rubber company? I was always under the impression it was the latter... After watching this video I'm thinking I am wrong.
It actually was! The welt is really named after the machinery which makes it, but that was invented by Charles Goodyear who was the son of the founder of Goodyear.
@@CarlMurawski Thank you! All my years of wondering finally have an answer. :)
It's so hard to find women's Good year welt shoes. Some will make good year welt for the men's shoes but not on their womens. I was finally able to find a company that makes a decent amount of women's shoes that are also good year welt, just got my first pair and currently breaking them in.
Very cool! What company? If you don’t mind sharing
@@CarlMurawski Miles&Louie!
Only 5 jackets!
Great pics! Surprised you don’t have any waxed canvas in your pics. Did you end up already getting rid of your huckberry waxed trucker. That would be in my five!
I did, I ended up selling it to a viewer who wanted one but couldn't afford it.
@@CarlMurawski that’s awesome! Thanks for the reply!
Lol, I just realized this comment went to the next video that auto played not the most recent one. 😅
The best rubber soles, Dainite full soles. For boots Good year welted. For Dress shoes, I highly recommend spike Dainite full sholes. For snow or winter boots, Thermoplastic Rubber Shoe Soles
I think you have generalized Goodyear welting with the more traditional hand- (or machine-) stitched welt.
There is an operational difference between these.
Goodyear welting has a preformed rubber or leather welt that can be wrapped around and then glued onto the edge of the insole. After it has bonded, the welt is then machine stitched to the insole.
With hand-stitched welting, a series of transverse hemp grooves are made through the upper-insole join to a depth of half the insole thickness with a curved awl. The welt is then stitched to the upper and insole by running the waxed hemp through the welt and through the transverse grooves.
Not all goodyear welt shoes have stitching all the way through the bottom. Often stitched just through the midsole with the outsole glued over. That's better for everything that isn't dress shoes because the stitching doesn't get worn through by the ground. For work type boots, stitching through the outsole is frankly stupid.
When I saw goodyear in you're thumbnail I thought you where talking about tires 😂
Excellent video, for more years, than I can remember I have bought Loakes men's boots with a leather sole, recently I contacted the agent here in Ireland to order a pair of Loakes Bedale boots only to be told that they no longer supply leather soles and offer only gum rubber soles.
At £215.00 I think it's a cheat for as you say rubber soles are glued on and therefore cheaper to produce and impossible to get resoled here in Ireland, yet both my son and I can get our leather-soled boots re-soled locally on average six times swapping between work boots and dress boots. So much for choice and putting the customer first.
Rapid Blake is by far the best method between the two giving sturdy and water resistant footwear. Stitchdown is the only true water proof method with or without an added protective welt on top of the upper.
nice job at explaning!
I like Blake stitch and moccasins in summer. Goodyear welt is good for a UK winter...
Thank you for a wonderful video. I learned a lot of information on Goodyear Welt.
Thank you for watching!
Another very informative video. Easy to understand. Very well done, Carl! Thanks
that was awesome thank you!
I got collection of footwear,and it was good to know, that I have 2 goodyear pairs❤❤
I have to agree with some of the comments on this video, this honestly is the best video explaining different types of shoe welting. I have read a lot of articles and watched many videos but never really understood it completely! Thanks Carl, you're a very good presenter as well!
Thank you for the kind words, and for taking the time to watch my stuff! I’m glad this cleared things up.
Stitch-down all day
Great vid. Can you make a vid on the salami-weld?
What about "stitchdown" I was surprised you didn't mention that method.
Dude! Your explanation was super clear! Just what I was looking for. Thank you
Glad to hear it!
Thank you for yet again showing me theres more to shoes then I ever thought! Love the vids man!
Thank you for watching!
Buh-loan-yuh, not baloney.
You should look into marketing yourself as a presenter 😎 very fine job
youre good for explaining. thank you brother, new knowledge to me about leather shoes.
Thank you for the kind words! My hope is that I can explain things simply enough to make sense to guys like me who only need a working knowledge of shoe construction. Every guide I've seen is either oversimplified or way too complex, hopefully this hits a sweet spot for someone just looking to increase their knowledge.
Dayumn, somedays I think I am normal, this just proved it, 2thumbs up , hella!!!
A great explanation and thank you for the amazing audio quality! I appreciate it!
I’ll tell you what a Goodyear is, it’s definitely not 2020 or 2021
I appreciate the video. Thank you. Angel from The Bay
Thank you for watching!
I wear boots made by Loake of Northampton with Goodyear Welt consruction and you will not find a finer boot.
David Gough Bedale or Burford?
Great vid, can anyone help answer my overall question below?
According to it's definition a WELT is:
A leather rim sewn around the edge of a shoe upper to which the sole is attached.
And honestly, that's exactly what I think of when I hear the words "Goodyear welt" or "storm welt", or just the word "welt" alone, for that matter. But what about a "blake welt" aka "blake sewn"? A blake welt/sewn doesn't have a piece of leather (or other material) around the rim of the midsole, so does it even constitute as a welt? It's missing the seemingly most important part of a welt, i.e. the leather rim (unless it does have it and if so please tell me, lol). Is this why I often see it being referred to as "blake swen" as opposed to a blake welt? And if a blake welt is indeed a type of welt then the above definition needs to be revised. Because a blake welt is a process where a stitch goes through the top of the midsole all the way through the bottom of the outsole via a stitch. That stitch continuously goes around the rim of the midsole joining the midsole and outsole. Now according to Google's definition above, this is not a welt beacuse it doesn't have a piece of material like leather that is sewn around the rim of the midsole.
I would like to know what you guys think about the welt on this boot in the link below. Their website describes it as having a "Thick leather welt". It's quite hard to make out but when I zoomed in really close I can see what appears to be a leather welt on top of the midsloe. But this clearly isn't a Goodyear welt, so what is it? If it does have a leather welt but isn't a Goodyear/storm/Norwegian welt then what could it be? I'm so confused, lol. Help.
goo.gl/dJCUvV
I think you are amongst the majority of men who are thrown by the Blake stitch and Goodyear welt. In the beginning I thought for sure there was a piece of rubber tire on Goodyear welted shoes!
You're correct, the "welt" is a strip of leather which acts as a buffer or trim between the sole and the lower. You'll see different takes on this with some being larger (Grenson Shoes, Dub Trio, and most Japanese shoemakers) and others being smaller like most Italian styles.
The Blake stitch is just that, and not a welt at all. It's a rather simple concept with no strip of leather and instead relying on stitching to secure the upper to the lower. Blake rapid is yet another version of this method.
The one thing I didn't mention in this video is Sitchdown construction which is almost the opposite of Blake stitch with the upper being turned outward and flanged, then stitched to the sole. You'll see this on a lot of Danner boots.
I hope this clears things up!
Carl Murawski
I really appreciate your feedback! And thanks for confirming my assumption.
Hey, did you take a look at the boots in the link I posted? I would really like to get your professional opinion on what type of stitch or welt the shoe is constructed with. They describe the boot as having "a thick leather welt". And honestly, when you zoom in close on the midsole next to the toebox of the image of the single boot (second image from the top down, facing left) there appears to be a brown leather strip/welt on said midsole. But because they don't name the type of welt that the shoe allegedly possesses, it makes me think that it's not a legitimate welt and more of a blake stitch (or a similar type of stitch) with some leather around the midsole to mimic a Goodyear type welt. And if that's untrue, wouldn't that be false advertisement? Thanks again, for the help.
This video helped me understand better about Goodyear welts. I am buying a pair of cowboy boots and they have a Goodyear welt. Thank you for breaking it down for this 58 year old lady. You are awesome. Keep it up 💯
Glad I could help, and thank you for watching!
I'm actually buying a pair boots in Mexico..one of the major selling points was Goodyear welt...so came here to understand what it was. Turns out I bought a good pair.
Great Video Mate....Never knew there were so many style of boot construction. ! Cheers ! !
Thank you! I didn’t even cover some of the more exotic ones, but chances are you’ll never see them in the wild anyhow. Thanks for watching!
Really enjoyed the video. Explained in lay man terms and very informative,. Thank you.
Thank you for watching!!!
Thank you. I've always wondered about Goodyear vs. something else. Now I know. I'm an informed consumer. And I now know that I have a pair of 270 Goodyear welt boots. Cool.
First time here on your channel. Great 👍 overview, thank you. I 🤔 think I'll stay for awhile.
Thank you, and welcome!
Dude you have THE best boot channel on youtube by far
Well thank you so much man!!!
I’m a big fan of the Norwegian Welt. I work outdoors. Excellent video!
Nicely done
You have in channel stitching as well .. if you look at the bottom the stitching is not visible.. but its there
Can you recomend a manufacturer for welted brogues in Europe
Thanks for the explanation on these types of welts/shoe construction, very informative.
Thank you for watching!
So the yellow stitching on Doc Martens are just for looks?
Yes, Doc Martens are Goodyear welted but with that trademark yellow thread.
And now made in China. If you like Docs, try Gripfast. English made and rugged
Hi Carl good video. I have a question. I wear a lot of military boots, especially Italian made amphibious boots made for parachutists and commando raids. They are very expensive and being waterproof they have rubber soles usually Vibram. They get a lot of abuse and now im coming to re-sole I am told they can be resoled easily? do you have any experience of these types of boots?
Thanks for the Info,quite a pleasant and clear explanation
I'm happy you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching!
Thank you for sharing 🙂
Very good video
Great video and fantastic explanation, thanks!
you are good for explaining. thanks boss, new knowledge to me about good year,bologna.thx...
You are most welcome
What about the handwelt?
Depends, there are many types of handwelts.
What about the Danner stitch down method...?
How can I clean white stitching on a welt for boots?
Thanks for the explanations. Where did you find the diagrams? I want to post/link your video on my website with a pictorial and I really like the cutaway pictures you show in this one. Thanks, Hillary Marek from Hillary's of Houston Luxury Clothing and Vintage Boutiques
Thank you Hillary, I got the diagrams from a number of different sources. Some were advertisements from shoe manufacturers, and others were simply a Google image search. I wish I had more specific information for you, but this was a few months back and my memory isn't as good as it once was.
Well thanks for giving me a place to start. I'll check out Google and see what I can dig up. Lmk if you ever want to collaborate. I have an extensive collection and I'm always open to brand ambassador agreements. I supply the luxury you supply the talent and I comp you with some of the best heritage brand clothing out there for your time.
I had to say it, one of my top 3 footwear channel and it's SO GOOD not to have a dark background ;)
All the best!
What about Stitch Down construction ? I see some good brand use that, like Viberg, Truman,... Can you tell the pros and cons of this method and compare with GYW method
It's difficult to explain without a visual but stitch down is essentially where the material from the upper is flanged out and then secured to the lower. It's similar in many ways to the Goodyear Welt but missing the actual welt piece of material on top and is now underneath.
Carl Murawski many people said that boots made by Stitch Down construction can not resole many time like GYW. I like the Viberg service boots but if it can not resole many time like Goodyear welt i will not be happy about a high price boots like that, the Viberg Shell Cordovan is crazy expensive but they're all Stitch Down method :(
Don't bother resoling cemented shoes. Some cobblers will stitch the delaminated sole back on. However, cemented construction isn't the only cost saving measure manufacturers use. Often cemented shoes will be made of cheaper genuine leather rather than more expensive top grain leather.
Make a video about vulcanising!
Just kidding!
My cobbler in india does a blake stitch by hand .
I glad I found this video. I had no clue what a Goodyear welt was. My first thought was. What does a car tire have to do with shoes/boot? Thanks for the video.
Hahaha, well the inventor is a relative!
Excellent and informative video. TIL how different types of sole construction are best adapted to various uses and environments, and are not just about the look of the shoe. It also explains why some shoe types are more expensive, and how manufacturers can simulate the look of more expensive construction, along with tips on how to identify those styles. I wish women’s shoes weren’t mostly garbage.
Is it possible to dye the welt/stitching?
Just discovered your channel and I love it. Your passion shows!
Thank you so much!
Have you ever encountered a shoes construction "Blake - rapid stich"? I just stumbled into knowing it while I looked for shoe construction on Google? I found there were kind of a greal deal of articles talking about it but i didn't any specific illustrations for it. Could You do a video to verify blake rapid stich?
Nice.. Easy to understand!!
What about the stitchdown? Like Danner Bull Runs?
Extremely robust and the most waterproof of these designs, BUT can be hard to resole if the stitching needs to be redone.
I’m looking for a well cushioned hiking boot or walking shoe that the cushioning doesn’t compress or lose its cushion. EVA cushioning wears out in my shoes within 2 months.
Great presentation man, thank you.
Useful and interesting. Thanks a lot!
Much appreciated! Thanks for watching
Thanks.
I cant tell what I have. Seems like goodyear because of the stiches and i think its cork between the upper and outer sole but has a rubber sole which doesnt show the stitches through the rubber. Could a rubber sole be glued onto the bottom and cover the goodyear welt stiches? Boots seem stiff. UK brand called Dundee I cant find anything on (made in portugal) a cap toe boot with hook laces at the top.
Intriguing.