How to Tune an Xpedition Bow
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- Опубликовано: 13 май 2017
- This video goes over how to tune an Xpedition bow to achieve perfect nock travel, especially with paper tuning. It is intended for people who work on Xpedition bows or are new to working on them.
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I said it backwards in this video. You remove twist from the control cable when you have a nock high tear. Sorry about that.
Sean, thank you so much for this video, the only problem with these bows are not many people can tune them. Thanks to you im very confident now
LEGEND!!
Thanks man. Glad you liked it. God bless you
Well, I thought I knew a lot about tuning bows and learned a lot in this video! I remember a friend getting me into archery about 30 years ago and he will always be the guy that got me "started", but he was not an archery guy. He just wanted to get out hunting before the gun hunters and though I will always appreciate him getting me "into" archery, I took it to the next level by ensuring my equipment was tuned and I knew exactly how my arrow was flying and where it was hitting before I hit the woods.(As Clint Eastwood said best "Man's got to know his limitations") and would only shoot as far as I could in practice and hit an 8" circle every time. I remember also the last time i went hunting with him and he had an old bow and maybe 2 arrows in is quiver and one with rusted blades on his broad head and I said to him, "Man, that is not how you prepare to take an animal ethically" and he just laughed and lit a cigarette and sadly out hunting trips together were over. Paper tuning is needed and you explained it perfectly. Thanks brother!
That's sad. The heart has to hurt for people who don't care enough to give their best for the animal. Anyway, thanks for watching. See you in a week, brother. God bless ya!
Great vid. Setup my first xpedition bow today using this video. Took me 10 min and perfect bullet holes. Thanks for the great vids and work you do 👍
Awesome! I really like these bows. God bless ya
Good Vid! I like the X bows. Very accurate!
Awesome, thanks. God bless you!
Nice video 👍
Thanks! God bless ya!
Thanks, good stuff!
Thank you
i love all you videos they are so helpful! Could you do a tune video on the reign 6 and 7?
I currently don't have a Reign but the basic aspects are similar to their previous bows, which I did do a tuning video on viewable here ruclips.net/video/QH1IiX6S7Z4/видео.html
I would never thought of a major and both sides of the actual actual
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hey sean I love watching your videos, and I have followed your advice in terms of getting my first bow, I did purchase a leader accessories bow from your other video, however I'm also intersted in the xpedition mako x but i can't find any place to buy that thing...
You can only buy those from a dealer. If you go on their website, one of the buttons should be something like “dealer locator.” You can put in the name of your town and it will show you the closest dealer.
Good Video. You have a new subsciber. :)
I have a Question, What Stabilizer is this?
Greetings from Germany :)
Apex carbon core side stabilizer.
Hey Sean - I am new to Xpedition bows and to bow setups. Can you please show me where the detailed video you referenced in the video is.
Thanks for the great content.
Chuck
ruclips.net/video/sNrSkpgleGI/видео.html
Thank you sir
I have a 28" draw so unfortunately I'm on the shortest end of the xs+ cam. it looks like my stop setting should be 6 1/4 to 6 3/4 and the pro shop set mine at 6 1/4 which would be for more valley and let off correct? what would be the benefits of having them at 6 3/4 exactly? just a couple more fps and a hair shorter dl? how does that work if its not allowing the cam to roll over farther? thanks in advance
Generally speaking the longer the draw length the faster the bow. Having a shorter valley, the bow will come off of the back wall easier (if that is something you would prefer) but I don't think you will gain any speed with a shorter draw and smaller valley. If you are coming off of the back wall a little too easily, which is possible with a big valley, then try putting the peg right in the middle of the two rated locations. That is where I often set them. Middle of the draw stop screw right in the middle of the two rated locations. However, for mine I did tweak it a hair to put it a little closer to the longer draw length range because the draw length fit me better right there. Good luck and God bless
I like tying the QAD timing cord through the buss cable and serving it in at the location right below the grip (about 4" to 5 below the thumb barrel - lower if there is roller guard serving that goes further down). Then, I loosen the screw in the thumb barrel next to where the timing cord goes in and then pull it taut. Then, with the screw and cord still loose, I draw back the bow and let the cord slide out to the correct length. Then, I pull the cord back through the opposite side of the screw just a hair so I minimize the risk of the launcher not coming up to launch position and I tighten down the screw. I leave about 3/8" of cord sticking out the back of the thumb barrel, cut it, and burn a knob. I leave 3/8" of an inch in case the rest is put on another bow with a different drawlength, so that there's enough there to adjust for that. (In case anyone is wondering, the actual FACE of the bow is the side of the bow that is facing you when you hold it out, and the BACK of the bow is the side that's facing your target. So, when I say the back of the thumb barrel, that's the same side as the back of the bow.) Everything else that Sean went over in this tutorial is SPOT ON!! Sean, I wish my hard drive with the schematics for my papertuning stand didn't crash. I would have loved to have sent it to you so you can adapt yours to use a roll of 18" wide painter's paper ($4.00 a roll from Lowe's or Home Depot), and you can just roll and cut the shot-through portions off. Perhaps, one day, I could drive out to you in PA (I'm in NY) and collaborate with you and help you modify yours and possibly help you build a shooting machine/drawboard for around $120. I have photos of the build for the latter in ArcheryTalk's DIY section. www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1835862&highlight=diy+drawboard+shooting+machine Detailed sketches are on page 4. Someone else helped me upload those drawings when ArcheryTalk was having fits one day and wouldn't let me upload anything.
Oh, hey, in one of the photos, I show my target bag stand and papertuning stand. The rollers with the blue masking tape are guides for O-rings, which compresses against the paper, making the paper taut. I simply turn the top roller upwards and it draws the paper up.
They've worked pretty well for me
Thanks for checking out my videos. I appreciate it. God bless you.
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Shaun you stated that removing twist from control cable will increase draw lbs? I would think control cable has much more to do with cam timing and very little influence on draw weight?
It does impact draw weight.
I have been shooting a solo cam for last 12 years. Just picked up a hybrid cam bow my first one! It was only pulling 62lbs with 65 lb limbs. I wanted to address this before I started bareshaft tuning. I added some twist to bus to get lbs up to 65. I was using the control cable to get my knock travel correct and did not notice much if any difference with control cable twists and draw weight changes. It actually may have went down 1/2 lb when untwisting control cable? Maybe something different between my hybrid and the Expedition? I really enjoy you're hunting videos so keep up the good work!
@@zpcllc209 Any twisting or untwisting to strings or cables is going to impact draw weight. Even taking twist out of the string and adding draw length can impact draw weight because of the way the cams are rolling over. So, there are many variables and it is a delicate balancing act. I also measure ATA to make sure that is on before I add or remove twist. If you are short on the ATA, I tend to remove twist rather than add twist when possible.
Hey Sean 👋 if you have time can you answer my question. Do you think it's easier to set up a binary 3 track or hybrid system? I was looking at the drive 3b and the mountaineer x. I just don't want to have problems where broad heads hit at different spots like my last bow :(
I think the hybrid system by Xpedition is definitely the easiest bow I’ve ever tuned without question
@@seansoutdoors how long does it stay tuned for? I hear that the hybrid system goes out of tune within a year. Is this true?
@@markychaz That depends more on the strings and cables than the other components of the bow. When strings and cables stretch it will likely go out of tune. I had a BowTech Reign 7 with the Binary Cam system and I had to re-tune that bow every two or three months. It was annoying. The Xpedition was not like that. It stayed in tune much better for me.
Hey, just something I've noticed after watching both of your videos on how to tune xpedition bows. In this video, you mention you need to add twist to the control cable for a high tear and remove twist in it for a low tear. However, in your previous video, you mention that it's the opposite of that and you need to remove twist for a high tear and add twist in the control cable for a low tear.
I know they may be different bows, but both are hybrid cam systems and to my understanding the control cable show still have the same effect the bows when adding or removing twist. I'm just wondering if you could clarify the discrepancy between the 2 videos. You're videos have been very helpful though, thanks for having them up!
Clearly I said it backwards on one, lol. Sorry about that. Off the top of my head I'm forgetting which is which now but I'd bet I said it right the second time. Next time I'm playing with mine I'll tinker with it to double check which is which.
Can adjust draw weight on the xscape or is it fixed
Yes ten pound adjustment range
I have OCD, do you recommend paper tuning?
It can help, but if you are having trouble with it just do walk back tuning. God bless ya.
You get it right just looking. If you really have OCD, otherwise you would be just tinkering.
Hi i have the xperdition xcursion 7 wat do i do to fix the cam lean ive got it in the top and bottom cam
Did you watch this video? I explain how to tune an Xpedition. You actually want some cam lean.
Yes but i have heaps in them not just a little its a fair bit in top and bottom so how would i fix that would i just put twist in oaks
Yes, twist yoke on the proper side
Awesome thank u 4 your help appreciate it
Hey do I need a draw board? My pro shop isn’t available atm.
Draw boards are a huge help. ruclips.net/video/_K3dODvn6vc/видео.html
I have a mako x I am having issues with getting the limb stops right I bought the bow with a 29 draw I am a 28.5 draw so I ordered the 28.5 modules and it is set up the same don't feel like the 28.5 made it any shorter and I don't know why I don't know if the limb stops need moved or what and help would be greatly appreciated
Yes the limb stops need to be moved for a different draw mod.
@@seansoutdoors is there a way to tell where the stops need to be I have not been able to find anything on the issue nor where to measure from or too
See if you can download the owners manual from their website. It should show which draw stop settings are for which draw length mods.
I have the measurements 2 3/8 and 2 5/8
I got it figured out I have the owners Manuel the shop that I went too never moved the limb stops the 2 3/8 was minimum and 2 5/8 the maximum for the for the bottom stop then move the top where it hits someone needs to make a video on what the measurements mean in the owners Manuel I was looking for somewhere to measure these measurement from and two instead of off the numbers on the cam
New limbs I see? 😂 after a lengthy conversation with xpedition, you can run the stops further out. IE I ran my 29.5 draw mods to 2 for around 90% letoff. I really like the new Denali
This is a brand new bow, so, yes, the limbs are new, lol.
Great video , i really want to buy me a bow , but all this tuneing and setting up kinda throws me off from that . Greetings from Europe .
I can understand
Axel to Axel
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