What did you actually do tweeking ? The full twist was to much the half was no go then the quarter twist was shooting high what else was there to do ? You just said you tweeked but what did you tweek from the 1/4 twist to rectify the problem?
A video with one of the Mathews guys would be cool to hear about some shop techniques how they tune the bows during testing, what they’re looking for, etc. I tried that 1/4 turn and didn’t think it did anything, but I did notice micro movements with yoke tuning of the 1/2 turns were too much in the main line. Seemed like the yoke was more of a true 1/4 based on the 2 points of connection.
Hey Chris, really enjoy these bow tech tip videos. I have been wanting to learn how to creep tune! Thanks Jesse broadwater talked about group tuning. I was hoping you could do a video on this. Essentially for the same reasons you mention about creep tuning. Most forgiving bow setup possible.
Be nice to have the darton timing feature to do this. You can be way more precise than a half or full turn. That’s the problem I ran into with Mathews. Sometimes half twist is way too much. There are ways around it like he showed with loop twists but have to use a bow press. I think darton changed the game with their timing adjustment. Being able to adjust timing with 1 degree turns without a bow press is wild.
Lol I’m 62 years old starting shooting competition archery in 1987 me and the guys I shoot with have been doing this type of tuning for 25 years but great video
You talk about hitting center, but before you do this, do you nock tune / spine index the arrows to make sure that is not what is affecting shot placement?
Great video. It’s definitely interesting and I can totally understand how it puts a ton of forgiveness into the bow and is worth putting the time into doing it. I don’t think I would be able to creep tune my elite though.they have a different kind of valley.
Very interesting. Have never heard about creep tune before. However, I doubt I could do it, especially because I shoot back tension release. Well of course in theory you could creep the shot off, perhaps setting the release to a lower poundage, but I am almost sure that would give very sloppy shots. But as Chris says, it is difficult to make a good shot while creeping.
If I set any Mathew’s up with the bottom fast I was in for a ride, my pin went from nice and slow to someone come help me hold this thing still! I could get away with the top being a touch fast for spots. But it always just made sense to set them the same and forget ever creep tuning😂
Great video as always! I recently got a Mathews triax. I'm shooting a hinge release. When I reach full draw, and remove my thumb from the thumb bar, my peep and sight come out of alignment making it difficult for me to see through my sight. Do you know how I can fix this, or what is causing this?
That depends on the direction of the alignment. Without any other info: it's probably more to do with your anchor points. The distances between the corner of the string, the peep, and the back of your hand might change based on how you hold the release. If you hold the release too close to the palm, or fold your fingers over too far while drawing back, when you remove your thumb you'll add more tension to your fingers and straighten out your hand. You likely set up your draw length, peep height, sight alignment, etc etc at your most stable position, which would be with your thumb on the bar. Adjust your hinge to require WAY more travel than you can practically activate, and readjust your bow. The goal is to hold the release at just before your ideal activation angle, and have that your new baseline. Then you can reset your release and test it out. Hope it helps!
Not to be rude, but if you're shooting softball sized groups at 20 yards, there are a lot of other things to work on that will help you tighten up your groups more than creep tuning. I'm not denying that creep tuning works, but I'm convinced from watching this that it's a waste of time for beginning and intermediate archers. Still gave it a thumbs up because presentation was o point.
So.. You start off with top cam hitting slightly before the bottom. Fair enough starting point. Creep, go high. Adding half a twist, further speeding up the top cam. Going back to "quarter" twist, still a tad high, and still top cam before bottom.. Out of interest: Did you at any point consider going the other way, starting at a perfect synch? Maybe it wouldn't even make a difference? Can't see this bringing a lot into a modern setup, but sure, nice experiment.
I've done creep tuning shooting bareshafts through paper at 6-7 yards. Fletched won't be sensitive enough. It does seem to add forgiveness when shooting broadheads at steep angles.. maybe it's just me but at some point you're so twisted up shooting downward you just don't get the same tension in the back wall as normally. So maybe it isn't as irrelevant even these days
Chris can I get a flag.ship what is 25 drawl length? It seems like they only come in a 25 minute half that’s where it starts at is there anyway I could she a half inch
Can anyone explain shooting a button release, or release in general to me. He says to push and pull but I never understand what he means by that… push and pull off of what
Love your videos Chris, but this one seems extremely not necessary. You’re tweaking your bow just in case you have a bad shot. So you’re basically setting your perfectly set up bow up for when you shoot a bad shot, instead of focusing on making the exact shot over and over, which is the challenge of archery.
@@russelllangworthy8855 not necessarily but yeah that can add a factor to it. I mean being wrapped around a tree trying to get a shot on a deer in a real world situation
To be honest, semi useless knowledge to me, practice makes perfect NO, perfect practice makes perfect. Allowing creep is you are adapting to a bad habit that you calcutivily by chance have a creep shot sometimes but not everytime. It would be like broadheads tuning if you shot a broadhead 1/10 times at random with field points . Just keep perfect form and anchor systematically and repetition. I don’t think you creep but your strings stretch. Jmo
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
It’s all ways a good day when Chris’s Bee uploads
Sure is!
So True!
the best upload notifications ever
👌🏻
Mind sharing more about the new grip?
I was gonna ask too. Looks awesome
What did you actually do tweeking ? The full twist was to much the half was no go then the quarter twist was shooting high what else was there to do ? You just said you tweeked but what did you tweek from the 1/4 twist to rectify the problem?
I was going to ask the same question.
You have to be such a consistent shot to not drive yourself nuts doing this
Well one thing is for sure this is above my pay grade but I really enjoy when you share some knowledge about archery I’d like to see more of it
Do you work at McDonald’s?
You make the best content in the archery community honestly
When will the new style grips that's on your bow be available?
Thank you for doing this lot of people need to know this stuff it man I'm proud of you buddy you really got an audience behind you now
The “In Time” system from conquest/black eagle is pretty handy for this. Especially on the Mathews bows.
You beat me to it Mike! Yes, that system would do precisely what Chris is describing in terms of "micro" adjusting the timing......
Cant wait for Utah TAC met you last year hope to run into you there again! Love the videos they’ve helped my shot process a ton!
Thank u for all hard work put in videos and the free knowledge Iv lurned more from u than anyone the real deal bow tec right here
Chrisbee! Not confusing at all - thank you for a great tip! The timelock feature on my BowTech will make this so easy! Thanks for that! 🐝 BeeReal!
Oh! Never thought about that!
Chris, I learn so much from you and your videos.
That grip is 🔥 let us know when they’re dropping!
Super happy to see this type of content!!! Please keep it up my friend.
Why do you look at your top cam before anchoring? Would love to know
A video with one of the Mathews guys would be cool to hear about some shop techniques how they tune the bows during testing, what they’re looking for, etc. I tried that 1/4 turn and didn’t think it did anything, but I did notice micro movements with yoke tuning of the 1/2 turns were too much in the main line. Seemed like the yoke was more of a true 1/4 based on the 2 points of connection.
Hey Chris, really enjoy these bow tech tip videos. I have been wanting to learn how to creep tune! Thanks
Jesse broadwater talked about group tuning. I was hoping you could do a video on this. Essentially for the same reasons you mention about creep tuning. Most forgiving bow setup possible.
Great tip, Chris!
APA Archery's Micro Tune is great for performing this with no tools, cam lock, or bow press.
I use the in time spacers with a draw board and cables hit the same exact time. Should I still do a creep tune?
I like that grip you got on it when can we get one
Great video. Possible relaxing toward creep causing peep sight height to vary? Causing high arrows.
Chris do you have the 12 inch stab on the front and 10 inch on the back? Looks like 5 ounces on the back how many ounces on the front?
Awesome video I slowly collecting 3d targets for a shoot w/ the local school so far I got 12 like you vids helps me feel more confident 👌
Be nice to have the darton timing feature to do this. You can be way more precise than a half or full turn. That’s the problem I ran into with Mathews. Sometimes half twist is way too much. There are ways around it like he showed with loop twists but have to use a bow press. I think darton changed the game with their timing adjustment. Being able to adjust timing with 1 degree turns without a bow press is wild.
How out of time was final setup?
Twisting the end loop on the cable a game changer
Do you have any videos discussing your thoughts on straight, offset, and helical?
Great video as usual Chris, that new grip looks sweet! When will they be available for purchase?
Excellent video Chris 🐝
Lol I’m 62 years old starting shooting competition archery in 1987 me and the guys I shoot with have been doing this type of tuning for 25 years but great video
What do you look up at when you draw back?
God
great content . i love these kind of videos. thanks Chris
Cool vid mate..thanks for the lesson..I'm gunna try that..👍.
I wanna know why I do t see people asking about the new grip in this vid.. 🧐 great tutorial btw! Thanks for it
I saw that to I looked on the uv website and I didn’t find it r they just not released yet
You talk about hitting center, but before you do this, do you nock tune / spine index the arrows to make sure that is not what is affecting shot placement?
How'd you see 50 + yard shots. Do you use magnifier and if so what about peep?
Thanks for the helpful advice chris
Is that a new UV bee real grip prototype?
Great video.
It’s definitely interesting and I can totally understand how it puts a ton of forgiveness into the bow and is worth putting the time into doing it.
I don’t think I would be able to creep tune my elite though.they have a different kind of valley.
Same with my elite, but great video!
Is there a reason you look at the top cam as you anchor
Awesome video Chris thanks for the info. Is that the new grip that’s getting released on Friday ?
This method has been around since the mid 90's did this at BOW-DOCs in Quincey Ill in 1995!!!The days of Hatchet cams,
Great vid would like to see a collaboration with you and Elk Shape love both of your vids.
Great video Chris!
Is that the new ultraview grip?
will you be at oklahoma tac perchance would love to meet you
Nice grip!
Are we gonna talk about the grip? 3.45!
Very interesting. Have never heard about creep tune before. However, I doubt I could do it, especially because I shoot back tension release. Well of course in theory you could creep the shot off, perhaps setting the release to a lower poundage, but I am almost sure that would give very sloppy shots. But as Chris says, it is difficult to make a good shot while creeping.
when do the new grips drop?
Is that a custom grip or can you buy that exact grip from UV?
Good stuff sir!
What is that bow grip? Looks amazing
Learn something everyday..nice vid
What binos are you using?
Super helpful video makes me wanna go double check mine since my arrows have been flying funny
I can’t wait to see you at nationals. I hope you can sign my hat.
It was hard to tell whether you’re shooting the 29” or the 33” Phase 4. Which one is it? Either way it’s definitely very quiet?
Which HHA sight is that ?
Love the videos Chris
Good stuff 👍
Hey Chris love your content keep it up.
We need to see an elkshape collab at tac! That’s be awesome!
So true
That would be awesome 😎
If I set any Mathew’s up with the bottom fast I was in for a ride, my pin went from nice and slow to someone come help me hold this thing still! I could get away with the top being a touch fast for spots. But it always just made sense to set them the same and forget ever creep tuning😂
New uv grip you got there?
Is that the new grip?
Ok, ok…Through the window, around the truck and off the rock! Nothing but line….😁👊🏻🏹
Interesting video, thanks! Looks like I need a bow press to mess with this this technique. What press do you use or recommend for a Mathews Halon bow?
It's a Chris BEE DAY!
Great video as always! I recently got a Mathews triax. I'm shooting a hinge release. When I reach full draw, and remove my thumb from the thumb bar, my peep and sight come out of alignment making it difficult for me to see through my sight. Do you know how I can fix this, or what is causing this?
That depends on the direction of the alignment.
Without any other info: it's probably more to do with your anchor points. The distances between the corner of the string, the peep, and the back of your hand might change based on how you hold the release. If you hold the release too close to the palm, or fold your fingers over too far while drawing back, when you remove your thumb you'll add more tension to your fingers and straighten out your hand.
You likely set up your draw length, peep height, sight alignment, etc etc at your most stable position, which would be with your thumb on the bar. Adjust your hinge to require WAY more travel than you can practically activate, and readjust your bow. The goal is to hold the release at just before your ideal activation angle, and have that your new baseline. Then you can reset your release and test it out.
Hope it helps!
Not to be rude, but if you're shooting softball sized groups at 20 yards, there are a lot of other things to work on that will help you tighten up your groups more than creep tuning. I'm not denying that creep tuning works, but I'm convinced from watching this that it's a waste of time for beginning and intermediate archers. Still gave it a thumbs up because presentation was o point.
Interesting grip
So.. You start off with top cam hitting slightly before the bottom. Fair enough starting point. Creep, go high. Adding half a twist, further speeding up the top cam. Going back to "quarter" twist, still a tad high, and still top cam before bottom..
Out of interest: Did you at any point consider going the other way, starting at a perfect synch? Maybe it wouldn't even make a difference?
Can't see this bringing a lot into a modern setup, but sure, nice experiment.
Trying to get into archery, but have no idea what I’m doing lol
Any video of you at Foley asa shoot
New grip?
Are you shooting the asa's this year?
What’s the new grip…
New grip??
Awesome
Love the vids
Chris out here tweakin' and creeping'.......
I've done creep tuning shooting bareshafts through paper at 6-7 yards. Fletched won't be sensitive enough. It does seem to add forgiveness when shooting broadheads at steep angles.. maybe it's just me but at some point you're so twisted up shooting downward you just don't get the same tension in the back wall as normally. So maybe it isn't as irrelevant even these days
Why are you twisted? Just bend at the waist.
@@russelllangworthy8855 think steeper
@@smau990 You can’t get any steeper than straight down.
Do you have bows you don't shoot?
Does Mathews bow have a life time warranty ?
Chris can I get a flag.ship what is 25 drawl length? It seems like they only come in a 25 minute half that’s where it starts at is there anyway I could she a half inch
We're the mullet 🥺
Peep the new grip.. Right after I bought the old one.. ha
"It's in this article, link down below!"
Always forgets the link
Can anyone explain shooting a button release, or release in general to me. He says to push and pull but I never understand what he means by that… push and pull off of what
Pushing his bow arm forward and pulling his release hand back
I thought that in order to creep tune you had to find a “creep”
I wonder if he ever wonders if he actually has a best bow. Love seeing what all the free agents shoot
yolo.
Love your videos Chris, but this one seems extremely not necessary. You’re tweaking your bow just in case you have a bad shot. So you’re basically setting your perfectly set up bow up for when you shoot a bad shot, instead of focusing on making the exact shot over and over, which is the challenge of archery.
Hunting situations change a Lott of the forms of archery.
@@mitchellpisarzewski194You mean because of heavier clothing, etc?
@@russelllangworthy8855 not necessarily but yeah that can add a factor to it. I mean being wrapped around a tree trying to get a shot on a deer in a real world situation
So in conclusion, creep tuning will make your timing off and you learn to go back to your proper timing setup. Huh
Nice grip…..
First like baby
To be honest, semi useless knowledge to me, practice makes perfect NO, perfect practice makes perfect. Allowing creep is you are adapting to a bad habit that you calcutivily by chance have a creep shot sometimes but not everytime. It would be like broadheads tuning if you shot a broadhead 1/10 times at random with field points . Just keep perfect form and anchor systematically and repetition. I don’t think you creep but your strings stretch. Jmo
what if your end loops are served no 1/4 turns id think...
That is where the In Time Cam Timing System by Conquest would be a must. It is designed specifically for micro adjusting cam timing....
With Mathews you can add twists in the loops that hold the yoke
You make the best content in the archery community honestly