Saab 9-3 Water Pump Replacement - DIY
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- In this detailed video I explain how to replace the water pump in a Saab 9-3 ( '99-'02 and '03 convertible) (the 4 cyl. '94-98 900 and OG 4 cyl.9-5 are similar) The car in the video is a 2001 Saab 9-3 SE Convertible, High Output Turbo.
The tips I give are gleaned from many years of replacing these water pumps on Saab cars. They will enable you to do the job properly and avoid many of the potential pitfalls that can turn a routine job into a one of frustration and trouble.
The video is lengthy, but I will post time markers below, for the various sections of the video. The extra detail is to enable the most people to be able to tackle this job and DIY. I believe that watching the entire video will enable those without experience to have a successful outcome. It is my hope that the time you invest in the video will enable you to do it yourself and save time and money.
0:26 Diagnosis and Tools
7:28 Belt Removal
23:00 Water Pump Removal
40:48 Pump Housing Transfer
51:20 Reinstallation Tips
1:03:13 Water Pump Reinstall
1:15:50 Filling Coolant and Conclusion
I've got a whole symphony of sounds coming from the "belt accessory" end of the engine at this point, and a lot of them now diagnosed, thanks to your videos. Looks like I have quite the holiday ahead of me. Your videos are so valuable in that regard, and I along with everyone else sincerely thank you for breaking down what would at first appear to be an intimidating undertaking, to say the least.
A story about my car, if you care to be humored some- I had a '99. 9-3 dropped into my possession for $400 that very quickly lived up to its price. Definitely been neglected by its previous owners, and was in really rough shape mechanically. The last record of maintenance I found was probably 80k miles back, and it was at about 180k when it came into my possession...Over the past year I've been nurturing it back to life. So far replacing the radiator, turbo, cleaning out the oil pan, a bunch of hoses, and upgrading the suspension. Engine mounts, steering rack brace, and now the belt accessories are on the list of future projects.
For being my first project (also daily) car, it was a very sudden and overwhelming process of getting the thing back on the road in way that is safe and enjoyable to drive, and as many headaches as it causes me, I've grown to care a lot about the car and have grown attached to it, as well as the Saab brand as a whole. I could not have done it without your guidance, and for that you have my utmost gratitude.
Thank you. Glad I have been of some help. Some are critical of my long and detailed approach to making a video, but these are all details I found out from years of working on Saab automobiles and felt inexperienced ones especially would appreciate.
I want to thank you for posting this video, it was an immense help to me as I replaced the water pump on my 2002 Saab 9-3 2.0L turbo. I did mine while the car sat on the ground and I found that lifting the car and placing a 6-inch height block under the left front tire made it much easier to get under the vehicle to completely removed the banjo bolt for the coolant tube at the turbo side that you mentioned at the 31:00 and 50:00 minute marks. By doing this I was able to angle the pump to a more comfortable position to remove the coolant pipe banjo bolt at the pump side. Yes, I did place wheel chocks at the rear tires and I set the parking brake for safety.
Also, thank you for the tip on the anaerobic gasket maker that you showed at the 43:00 minute mark.
This video was a dang life saver a few months ago… thanks a million for the upload 🙏
Brilliant video! Take a bow sir. Need to remove my pump as I’ve rounded the lower coolant pipe banjo bolt while stripping out a blown turbo. Was just looking for a quick run through of the job, but I’ve taken loads out of this to help. Great work!
Alistair, how did you get the rounded lower coolant pipe banjo bolt out? I was following this video to replace my water pump and unfortunately I rounded my banjo bolt as well
Hi Jon, the rounded bolt was really troublesome. Thing is, I was removing the turbo to upgrade it, rather than taking the water pump out so when the bolt started to round off I just cut the water pipe leading to the turbo as that was the last bit that let me get the turbo off and out the way. With the pump still on the car I filed the flats of the banjo bolt a little to get a smaller spanner on but it still wouldn’t turn so I had to strip the water pump off the car. When I had the impact gun on the bolt it still wouldn’t move and in the end I cut the bolt right through the middle with the grinder and got it out. No way I could have done it without the pump out of the car.
Good work very informative
I nailed this fix today and drove my saab for the first time in a couple years after both of us having been disabled. it gave me a giant smile to feel that turbo kick in and then see no drips in the drive way. life changing confidence boost. thank you for this wisdom and guidance.
Thank you - this was tremendously helpful - I would have never attempted this repair without this video. Such a great SAAB community!
Thanks for the great video! For those interested, I just did this on my 1999 9-3 2.0L (130k mi) and it didn't have the banjo bolt on the pump. So it was a lot easier. I didn't even have to remove the metal turbo air inlet.
Hi do you have the Red top engine? I'm about to do my 1999 9-3 later today which is the base model (red top).
@@MrBooyahmofo yes, red DIC
Man! I wish I could bring my 03 9-3 SE to you.
Having done this today following your video I'd like to add one thing about the evil, evil banjo bolt. If you use a wrench you can crack it loose, then with a 1/4" 3 inch extension and a 13mm socket, I used a flex head ratchet as well and got the banjo bolt out in just a minute or two.
Getting it back together though lol... I wish I had tips for that but it's just a bear no matter what.
Thanks for the great video !! It's nice to see that I am not the only one having to work on driveway :) I replaced water pumps on 9-5, now I own 2002 9-3 and most likely I will need to replace the pump this year, as I have no clue when - if ever - it was replaced. Same thing for idler you were mentioning. My coolant turbo pipes are fairly rusty, I got new oem replacements, maybe I would be replacing them at the same time. My 9-3 has "only" 195000km but life in Quebec is not easy on cars..... nor on us (drivers) :) Tegards from still frozen Montreal, Z.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. I replaced radiator, thermostat, and, all new hoses. 02 93 se 'vert. Cranked her up and water pump started leaking. I guess having full pressure was the cause for failure. Original pump at 134,000 miles. Video was a great help.
Ha, ha, that original water pump owed you nothing! Keep her going, less and less around now.
@@saabtech3510 I've seen only 1,but and it wasn't a convertible , in Al .I've owned this one for 5 yrs, it's my 6th SAAB in 35 yrs. I started with a 99. Do you still own the beautiful 93 in the video? Thanks again.
@@tonyjohnson750 Yes, I still have the convertible and plan to keep it. I see you are a bass player. I used to watch Billy Sheehan all the time at the local clubs in WNY. One old guy would take a chair, place it on the dance floor in front of the stage, up close to Sheehan and just watch him.
@@saabtech3510 Wow, great memories. I made a decent living playing rock in nightclubs for almost 38 yrs. Started traveling after high school with Rudy Maccabee, one of the Drifters. Got an education in old school after growing up on Zeppelin etc.
@@tonyjohnson750 That's great. I always enjoyed the experience of seeing bands in clubs better than the big venues.
Thanks for such a detailed video. My Saab now has 120,000 miles on the clock. It may well have the original water pump on still. The lengths you have gone to with this video have given me the confidence to have a go myself which I otherwise probably wouldn't.. much better to watch your video 1st than just use my Haynes manual.
Thanks, this was super hulpful when i ran into coolant problems in my 1996 900 T. The generated subtitles were great too, when you took the housing apart subtitles said [MUSIC] for the ratchet sound
Another great in depth video. Useful to me in respect of the serp belt - which I feel I need to do shortly in my 74000 mile 9-3! An original pulley wheel is aroun €38 here - lucky so far! Will 2 x 3/8" extension bars work for the tensioner do you reckon or I need get the specified tool? Your tips on the belt & pulley are great thanks 👍
It's been a while, but I think the square on top of the tensioner is closer to 1/2 inch. A couple problems though are the proper tool has a bend, because a straight bar is interfered with by the firewall. The other issue is, if you use an extension, especially if not fully seated in the square hole, the tensioner hole can crack and break off. I've seen a lot like that.
Thanks as always for posting. Here's a recap of the Required Tools section for those making a list:
3/8":
ratchets:stubby, long flex head
Sockets: 12,13mm
Deep sockets: 12,13mm
T30 torx socket
assorted extensions
1/4":
ratchet
straight socket driver
sockets: 7,8,10mm
box wrenches:
10, 12mm short
10, 12, 13mm long
Leverage and encouragement:
large pry bar
long 1/2" extensions
regular plyers
long needlenose plyers
spring clip plyers (vise grip plyers work too)
assorted flathead screwdrivers
small hammer
WD-40
petrolium jelly
Endura lubricant (Saab Tech's favorite)
parts tray(s) for organization
magnetic pickup tool
Something that fits in the belt tensioner retainer slot -
metal pin, hex wrench, thick nail, etc
Thanks Ryan !!!
Very detailed tutorial thanks
In Sweden we call the OEM Saab gasket maker Lingonberry jam 😄
Than you ❤
Thank you for saving my day :)
Found the pipe referenced in a Haynes manual as a breather pipe. A section of rubber hose will likely repair it as you said.
Great!
The design of this water pump is one of the strangest I've seen . Lots of potential failure (leak) points . My Viggen was leaking from every point possible . Hoping she seals up well after I finish this bear of a job .
Great video very detailed this really helped me. Much thanks.
Great tutorial. I have a hard time keeping focused on long, windy tutorials. You did not waste a word. Your intimate knowledge of this motor is astounding. So many great pointers! Mine is an 01' 9-5 wagon 4.3t, so I have the motor mount to deal with, but it looks very similar. Great tip on the down tube eye holes! I replaced a tiny O-ring down there a few years back.
Nice video my friend
I got to the stage of removing water pump this morning. The clamp on lower hose slid down it when I touched it. I must have missed it when reassembling. My question. To continue, since I've gone this far, or not?
Mine froze up and snapped the belt😢 right after I just got done doing a whole bunch of things to it. So maybe I could just replace the pulley and not the whole water pump?
Which pulley froze? If it's just the small idler pulley, then just replace that. The water pump pulley runs on the bearing in the water pump. If that, you need a new water pump.
These pumps fail so often it blows my mind. I buy the OEM "orio" or Genuine Saab pumps every time, I only ever get about 50,000 to 60,000 miles out of them. I've had american cars make it 120 to 150 on a water pump, and honestly this job wouldn't be so bad if that banjo bolt wasn't pure evil lol.
I used to try using pliers but dropped the washer too often, ended up using a "four prong pick up tool", they're marketed as a lot of things really, sometimes jewelery or watch tools, but they hold onto the washer's lip without being in the way of the banjo, they're maybe a 4 inch long tool. Honestly I've considered making some kind hemostat like device that'd clamp the edge of a washer just for this install lol. It's amazing how many special tools I have just to fix my old Saabs.
I think where the pulley for the pump is placed may put extra stress on the pump bearing? Often it is the bearing that fails before it begins leaking. I've seen the pulley even eat a hole in the timing chain cover. The water pump for the newer 9-3's with the 4 cyl are even worse to change. First one I did took me 8 hours. LOL.
@@saabtech3510 I watched your video and did the pump this afternoon, took me about 4 hours to do it plus an oil change. I was going to replace the thermostat which failed in the open position today, but by the time I got done I said forget it lol.
It's a 9-3 convertible, has 240,000 miles on it... it's not in great shape but I drive it 500 miles a week so I don't mind, plus I know if I were to sell it it'd only be worth the scrap price at this point.
Friday morning the blower motor quit, now I'll have to chase that issue, maybe I'll replace it, the air filter, and the thermostat next weekend lol.
Is there anything major that differs from changing the pump on this engine compared to the T5, B204L, from '98?
Very similar. The '98 is a bit easier to replace.
@@saabtech3510 alright, thank you!! I'll give you an update if I buy the car and give it a try! 🤝
Do i have to go inside right wheel to change belt and pulleys?
I can do it from the top, but I've done it hundreds of times. You may have to go under partially if it gives you trouble. 🙂
I hate to bother you but could you please tell me the name of the line that banjo bolts to the top of the turbo intake housing? Yours appears to be made of metal. I found out mine is plastic. I snapped it while reassembling.
Hi Tony. I'm not sure. I think the metal one on mine just goes to a rubber breather hose. The plastic clips always break, but I just wire tie it in place. If your line is plastic, can you repair it with a section of rubber hose?
@@saabtech3510 I'm going to finish reassembling tomorrow. Once I crank it I'll know more about performance issues. I can't find an exploded diagram of it anywhere. It goes back behind the throttle body. I'll do some tracing in the morning. I wish I knew it's purpose. As you can tell my abilities in the mechanics field are sadly lacking. Thank you so much for your assistance. Stay safe.
In the middle of replacing the water pump in guidance with video, however, I am having such a hard time finding another copper seal with rubber lining for the banjo bolt. What part # is this washer and on what website can I order it, or if there are any alternatives.
I have only seen the copper washer with a fitting diameter but it has no rubber lining, I also found another washer (with rubber lining) but it isn't copper, would this be a viable alternative?
Thanks for making this great detailed and specific video!
The one with the rubber lining that is not copper goes on the waterpump side of the banjo bolt. The copper one is on the banjo bolt head side of the pipe. So the non-copper one with the rubber lining is correct. It's not copper. This rubber lined washer is also called the "small fuel seal." It goes on the small banjo bolt side of the fuel filter. I found them at eeuroparts.com.
@@saabtech3510 Ahhh that’s where I was getting confused. Yes! Found them on eEuroparts, thank you so much for your help!
@@saabmanmatvei2185 It's the 12mm small one. www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/433495/Sealing-Ring-12mm-8326704/
I'm about to order the short serpentine belt and the fuel seals (copper/rubber) to go with the pump I already have. What size fuel seals should I order?
There is just 1 small rubber lined fuel seal. Same style as goes on the smaller banjo bolt side of the fuel filter. I usually just reuse the copper seals on the turbo cooler pipes with no problems.
So I watch all these videos, and I'm semi sure that I am the current owner of the car pictured in this video, do you know what # of the production line up this was?
I still have the car. : )
That's awesome we have the exact same car
But in my case was AC compressor issue (same sound)
I’m stuck on that turbo coolanr banjo bolt removal...how’d you remove it?
I use a couple different box wrenches to break it free...whichever one gives me a little movement, then sometimes use a long needle nose pliers to spin it. It's a pain, and takes a little time.
@@saabtech3510 I eventually figured it out, but now lookingt at it, it seems easy to replace water pump on OG...your video was my guide throughout the whole process, thanks!
Just replaced my coolant pump. My bolt would not budge and I couldn’t get a grip on it. Ended up stripping it. Had to cut the pipe and order a new one. That is another solution if you can’t manage to get the bolt out
Matt Miller wow, I’m glad you figured it out! It was definitely an annoying job
@@Mtnfew Where did you order the new pipe from? I ran into the same problem
Where did you drain the coolant in the video ?
Had a drain pan under the car.
I have a 2002 saab 93 se. Should it be all the same?
Yes.
Wow. You replied. Thanks. They're charging me 750. I just paid 800 for electric throttle body last month and hopefully its the water pump making noise now because i already got the part. Waiting for a friend to help but... Where you stay at? Im in santa barbara ca. Aint much saab stuff out here. I take mine to swedemasters santa barbara
@@riverioslopez9366 I'm in NY. Hope it works out for you!
Thanks again. Take care.