Just did my timing belt for the first time on a 2017 Ridgeline this weekend 2/26/23. I used the exact same impact with a 9AH battery and the large crank socket from amazon (ARES 71505-19mm Harmonic Balancer Socket for Honda) If you are going to tackle this job, this setup will get the bolt out very easily. Mine came out just like his did. FYI - I sprayed the bolt with PB blaster penetrating oil 2 days before I started the job.
Thank you! Finally! A real life video on the new Ryobi high torque. Would you by chance recall the torque specs on that crank bolt and how long it had been there for? Did it come off the first time you changed that timing belt?
This is the second time I have replaced the timing belt on this vehicle. The first time was in September, 2016 at 101,000 Miles. This time I did it in October, 2021 at 198,300 miles. Honda/Acura engine crank bolts are notorious for being very difficult to break. I spent over 3 hours trying to get that bolt off the first time I did this service because I did it without impact tools. The first time I did the service, I tightened the bolt as tight as I could get it. The manual states the following: "Tighten the Crank bolt to 47ft lbs, Mark the bolt head and the crankshaft pulley and then tighten the bolt an additional 60°. " However, I could not get the bolt to move an additional 60°. Therefore I simply put all my strength into it. My two daughters also had the same vehicle (2010 & 2012 Acura). I did this service on theirs after doing it on my wife's car for the firs time. Each time it got easier for me because I began investing in the proper tools for the job. However, this is by far the easiest this crank bolt has ever come off.
She's a beauty worth every cent, I have the one that came before it the Ryobi P262, I consider it the Mid Torque, I will be getting the DCF900 by DeWalt the BIG Dawg the #1 High Torque, I personally like them all. I was going to buy the Milwaukee M18 P2767 H96B but they came out faulty so bad that Milwaukee had to recall them and tell everyone that the M18 P2767 H96A is the one to get and not the Milwaukee M18 P2767 H96B which is the defective one. I also think that the Bauer and the Hercules brand are good they sell them over at Harbor Freight and can compete and in some cases beat the more popular brands. Both TTi and SB&D put out great products to bad that most of the brands are made over seas tho, anyways .... I still appreciate their products and Harbor Freights too.👍🏻
I'm used to removing stubborn bolts at work with a standard wrench but I've always resorted to heat since that's the standard way. I'm hesitant to do that with my Honda and there's not many real world reviews out there. The one review on Home Depot said they couldn't loosen. I only want the ryobi so I can use the battery on their other tools, but if it fails on my Honda I won't be very happy, nearly 400 bucks after taxes in Canada.
Most battery 1/2" impact guns with regular socket will not loosen the bolt. Using ATG's socket increases your changes of taking out the bolt & not hurt impact gun.
A regular impact would've worked. However, it wouldv'e taken longer because regular(thin-walled) impact sockets vibrate too much causing much of the power to be lost instead sending the impacts directly to the bolt.
@@DennisBuckley180 If you ever get a chance again on another Honda, see if the 19mm Milwaukee Shockwave works. For me the Lisle is 70 bucks in Canada and 10 bucks for the Milwaukee. Thanks
@@kc3678 The Shockwave isn't made for Honda crank bolts. Notice the thickness of the socket walls. However, it doesn't have to be a Lisle brand. Here's one on Amazon for half the price of the Lisle: amzn.to/3KT3q5c
@@DennisBuckley180 I believe the physics of it is that the greater mass of the thick-walled socket means more force is transferred to the bolt with every impact. Nice video. Exactly what I was looking for to convince me to switch to the Ryobi high-torque from my (very inexpensive) air wrench.
I wonder if that socket, paired with a Ryobi mid-torque P262 and a standard 4 hr battery would do the job? And if not, maybe add in a high-performance battery?
Removing the harmonic balancer on Honda's and Acuras is actually not that difficult when it's been removed before,if you are trying to remove an original first time changing the timing belt it would be way more harder because it is seized in there like it's a couple thousand ft lbs,I needed a 1 inch Aircat to remove my friends 98 Accord V6 with still surprising low miles at 80k it was a nightmare trying every single 1/2 impact with the lisle socket,and longest breaker bars no to avail..but anyways nice video
It took only about 10 minutes using the CTA socket with my pneumatic Earthquake on my daughter's 2012 TL V6. It had a little over 100k on it. That was the 1st TB change. However, It was not rusted.
Lmao bruh no. Just because it's not the first time removing it does not mean a second or third or fourth bolt can't get seized on there. I guarantee if he had this impact the first time he did it he would get the same results. He explained in a other comment his history with removing this bolt I believe this was his second time removing it on this car but many more times on the same model car just different car. It's also not thousands and thousands of ft-lbs either not even close lol close to a thousand yes but many thousands no way
Seeing as this is belt change 2 or 3, chances are you didn't glue/torque it in like Honda do when it comes to belt change 1 "Let's open this bolt". Different ponies, different Rodeos..
While I do agree that the special socket makes a huge difference, I must note that it probably took me about 10 minutes using that same socket to break the bolt on my daughter's 2012 TL using my pneumatic Earthquake.
@@DennisBuckley180 Many tool companies basically lied on the removal ft. lbs number. Nevertheless, I hope you replaced the front & rear crankshaft seals when doing timing belt replacement. Many dealerships, shops & DIYers don't even know about it nor do they replace them.
@@angelisone I never even thought about the seal...Probably because it wasn't leaking. You can bet I'll replace it during the next Timing Belt replacement. Thanks a bunch for the tip!
@@DennisBuckley180 I will bet that you will scream/say bad words when you see the location of Inner (back) Crankshaft Seal. Most honest shops/good mechanic will say about $1,500 worth of labor just to install $19.11 ATG's Inner Crankshaft Seal. ATG & I recommend to replace both Crankshaft's Seals. If car has over 179,911, replace the Oil Pump Assy (has ATG' Inner Seal).
![Ryobi high torque impact wrench [must see]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Wu4vxLX6I3s/mqdefault.jpg)
Just did my timing belt for the first time on a 2017 Ridgeline this weekend 2/26/23. I used the exact same impact with a 9AH battery and the large crank socket from amazon (ARES 71505-19mm Harmonic Balancer Socket for Honda) If you are going to tackle this job, this setup will get the bolt out very easily. Mine came out just like his did. FYI - I sprayed the bolt with PB blaster penetrating oil 2 days before I started the job.
Wow!! That impact gun is a beast. I am getting one today at home depot.
I already beat u to it
I'm shopping for one of these right now. Your video just tipped the scale. Thank you for the excellent and concise video.
I had no clue that type of socket existed, right tools for the right job ehhh. Very nice.....
what????? thanks, this video just made me a believer... we've got a Honda Odyssey sitting the garage waiting on a new timing belt....
Amazing, that's faster than many air compressors. cheers
Thank you! Finally! A real life video on the new Ryobi high torque. Would you by chance recall the torque specs on that crank bolt and how long it had been there for? Did it come off the first time you changed that timing belt?
This is the second time I have replaced the timing belt on this vehicle. The first time was in September, 2016 at 101,000 Miles. This time I did it in October, 2021 at 198,300 miles. Honda/Acura engine crank bolts are notorious for being very difficult to break. I spent over 3 hours trying to get that bolt off the first time I did this service because I did it without impact tools. The first time I did the service, I tightened the bolt as tight as I could get it. The manual states the following: "Tighten the Crank bolt to 47ft lbs, Mark the bolt head and the crankshaft pulley and then tighten the bolt an additional 60°. " However, I could not get the bolt to move an additional 60°. Therefore I simply put all my strength into it. My two daughters also had the same vehicle (2010 & 2012 Acura). I did this service on theirs after doing it on my wife's car for the firs time. Each time it got easier for me because I began investing in the proper tools for the job. However, this is by far the easiest this crank bolt has ever come off.
I just bought mine, it took the lugs off of my HD Ram 2500 like they were nothing. This things a beast.
Great video. Also, I love the fact that you called it REE-YO-BEE as everyone should. Thanks for the video, you sold me man.
Not bad at all for some Kountry Folk. Out there. TRULY IMPRESSIVE.
She's a beauty worth every cent, I have the one that came before it the Ryobi P262, I consider it the Mid Torque, I will be getting the DCF900 by DeWalt the BIG Dawg the #1 High Torque, I personally like them all. I was going to buy the Milwaukee M18 P2767 H96B but they came out faulty so bad that Milwaukee had to recall them and tell everyone that the M18 P2767 H96A is the one to get and not the Milwaukee M18 P2767 H96B which is the defective one.
I also think that the Bauer and the Hercules brand are good they sell them over at Harbor Freight and can compete and in some cases beat the more popular brands.
Both TTi and SB&D put out great products to bad that most of the brands are made over seas tho, anyways .... I still appreciate their products and Harbor Freights too.👍🏻
I'm used to removing stubborn bolts at work with a standard wrench but I've always resorted to heat since that's the standard way. I'm hesitant to do that with my Honda and there's not many real world reviews out there. The one review on Home Depot said they couldn't loosen. I only want the ryobi so I can use the battery on their other tools, but if it fails on my Honda I won't be very happy, nearly 400 bucks after taxes in Canada.
On Ferrari, Porsche & Honda's Crankshaft Bolts = It's on real tight, like 1,600ft lbs.
We like using ATG's battery 1/2" impact gun with ATG's socket.
I just bought one of these two weeks ago. I was able to swap out 4 wheels on my Jeep in 15 minutes.
With how easy it came out, I doubt that socket made much of a difference, came out zero hesitation. I just got the same impact the thing is a monster.
You'll be surprised as to how much difference that socket makes!
Most battery 1/2" impact guns with regular socket will not loosen the bolt.
Using ATG's socket increases your changes of taking out the bolt & not hurt impact gun.
That great for working Truck mechanical, Concrete with Scaffolder and heavy steel building or bridge Any idea !
Not available in canada and nearby Home Depot or on line hour drive away in Port Huron not available either
I see it now online at HD for 329, tool, battery and charger. I'm in Canada too.
i like having these puppies around the shop, they only eat batteries and d'ont leave a mess or leave frisbys in your path
I guess with that much torque, you could’ve used a regular impact socket. Right?
A regular impact would've worked. However, it wouldv'e taken longer because regular(thin-walled) impact sockets vibrate too much causing much of the power to be lost instead sending the impacts directly to the bolt.
@@DennisBuckley180
If you ever get a chance again on another Honda, see if the 19mm Milwaukee Shockwave works. For me the Lisle is 70 bucks in Canada and 10 bucks for the Milwaukee. Thanks
@@kc3678 The Shockwave isn't made for Honda crank bolts. Notice the thickness of the socket walls. However, it doesn't have to be a Lisle brand. Here's one on Amazon for half the price of the Lisle: amzn.to/3KT3q5c
@@DennisBuckley180 I believe the physics of it is that the greater mass of the thick-walled socket means more force is transferred to the bolt with every impact. Nice video. Exactly what I was looking for to convince me to switch to the Ryobi high-torque from my (very inexpensive) air wrench.
I wonder if that socket, paired with a Ryobi mid-torque P262 and a standard 4 hr battery would do the job? And if not, maybe add in a high-performance battery?
It looks like the mid-torque Makita will...May be worth a try. Check out this guy's video: ruclips.net/video/83wd9QGKKpY/видео.html
sold!
Put that socket in your pocket and Mae West will magically appear.
Removing the harmonic balancer on Honda's and Acuras is actually not that difficult when it's been removed before,if you are trying to remove an original first time changing the timing belt it would be way more harder because it is seized in there like it's a couple thousand ft lbs,I needed a 1 inch Aircat to remove my friends 98 Accord V6 with still surprising low miles at 80k it was a nightmare trying every single 1/2 impact with the lisle socket,and longest breaker bars no to avail..but anyways nice video
It took only about 10 minutes using the CTA socket with my pneumatic Earthquake on my daughter's 2012 TL V6. It had a little over 100k on it. That was the 1st TB change. However, It was not rusted.
Lmao bruh no. Just because it's not the first time removing it does not mean a second or third or fourth bolt can't get seized on there. I guarantee if he had this impact the first time he did it he would get the same results. He explained in a other comment his history with removing this bolt I believe this was his second time removing it on this car but many more times on the same model car just different car. It's also not thousands and thousands of ft-lbs either not even close lol close to a thousand yes but many thousands no way
@@Mr.Thermistor7228 hehehe
Seeing as this is belt change 2 or 3, chances are you didn't glue/torque it in like Honda do when it comes to belt change 1 "Let's open this bolt". Different ponies, different Rodeos..
Just go to the 3:00 minute mark
It was really the socket not the wrench that took out the bolt
While I do agree that the special socket makes a huge difference, I must note that it probably took me about 10 minutes using that same socket to break the bolt on my daughter's 2012 TL using my pneumatic Earthquake.
@@DennisBuckley180 Many tool companies basically lied on the removal ft. lbs number.
Nevertheless, I hope you replaced the front & rear crankshaft seals when doing timing belt replacement.
Many dealerships, shops & DIYers don't even know about it nor do they replace them.
@@angelisone I never even thought about the seal...Probably because it wasn't leaking. You can bet I'll replace it during the next Timing Belt replacement. Thanks a bunch for the tip!
@@DennisBuckley180 I will bet that you will scream/say bad words when you see the location of Inner (back) Crankshaft Seal.
Most honest shops/good mechanic will say about $1,500 worth of labor just to install $19.11 ATG's Inner Crankshaft Seal.
ATG & I recommend to replace both Crankshaft's Seals.
If car has over 179,911, replace the Oil Pump Assy (has ATG' Inner Seal).
Threw me off when you said "O" . Zero "0" so people don't get thrown off looking for the model number