Pressurised Heating Systems - Plumbing Tips
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- Опубликовано: 24 ноя 2024
- A brief video about Pressurised Heating Systems. How to drain them and fill them up. How to vent air from them. How to pressurise them. For more information visit our website at www.plumberpart...
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Helpful to me. Having our F&E heating system converted to a Pressurised system next week. Attempting to overcome the problems we get with airlocks in our system.
YOUR VIDEOS ARE AMAZING!! You don't have any fluff, it's to the point and I don't have to skip parts because it's all relevant
so glad I watched this : made me understand that I shouldn't even think about attempting anything on a pressurised system. leave it to someone who knows what he's doing
Glad to help Adrian!
Thank you! bled some rads last night and system wouldn't fire this morning...All fixed and now bled properly :)
Very Well explained, clear and concise. Excellent.
Cheers!
An excellent presentation, clear and easy to follow. Thank you.
Great apart from one massive omission mate
How and when do you put the inhibitor in?
Great video! Very well explained
Brilliant video now happy to drain down system and fit new rad and valves.
Very useful video. Excellent, factual content
this man talks a lot of sense. 1 bar for a cold system is fine. and when filling add then check add then check
Some domestic system and comb) boilers (e.g. the later Potterton, Baxi (older Remeha) and Main (all the same company now) require a MINIMUM of 1 bar cold static pressure. I usually keep my (Remeha 18S system) at 1.2 bar cold static which gives 1.7 bar hot dynamic pressure. Very nice video and like the "down to earth" presentation style, without soft piano music. Thank you and hope you don't mind my comment.
Hi there! No worries mate! Glad you like it. All the best, James at PP! SUBSCRIBE! ➡️👉 ruclips.net/user/plumberparts 👈⬅️if you haven't already!
Thanks, great advise. had to change a radiator, and could not work out why I could not get rid of the air bubbles in the upstairs, radiator. Then I noticed I had no pressure in the system, pumped up the pressure three attempts and heat upstairs, just in time as it is now snowing.
Also forgot to mention should I need to add any central heating inhibitor to the system how would I do that?
Great video! Thanks for all the tips.
Very clear and a lot of climbing up and down
nice one. BTW tink u need a petzl head lamp, they're the BOMB
this was very helpfull jimmy. fair play dude.
+DJJimCowley Cheers mate!
Great vid as always,I have a vaillant combi boiler , sits at 1bar when cold but raises to 3 bar when hot????? What do you think is wrong
Thanks mate... Sorted now
Do you know anything about single pipe central heating systems as i want to see you do a video on them if possible
Hi Mick here. My heating pipes run in the attic of my bungalo and drops down to the rads and im afraid of the pipes freezing over the winter as i will be working away for five days at a time . Can i add antifreeze to the system. Also the system hasnt been drained for 10 years or so .should i flush out the whole system a few times. Is water the norm in most heating systems
Hi i have watched one of your vidoes in he past when you lay copper pipe and you test the copper pipe joints iunder pressure , however i cannot find that video anymore pelase advise which video it is in
Great Video
Hi please I need your help.I have an identical system to the one you just showed. My boiler is not heating. The only thing I noticed is the pressure Gauge is reading 2 and the alarm light is blinking.what do I do please?
there are two valves on radiator one is Thermostatic radiator valve and other is normal valve opening/closing sign which valve should i open while draining off
My current system has been over pressurised after recent bathroom refit. My old house had valve in unvented high pressure system which allowed me to easily decrease pressure without draining rads. There is a few valves in current pressure system in new house. How do I identify such valve?
Do you need a automatic air vent valve somewhere on this or not required?
Hi, how do I stop water hammer happening on my system when I turn on the hot water in the morning. Thanks.
Hey dude what's your opinion about teeing in the expansion vessel to the primary return pipe work, before it connects to the coil of the hot water cylinder ? Isn't it better to have the expansion on the cooler side of the system that's what I've always thought, obviously make sure there are no valves on this part of the pipe work
is pressurizing and refilling central heating system same or not. thank you
Mine is at 0.2 bar (2nd notch) heat one 3 hours ago. Is this ok
u done good job
On an F+E system, I've always put in an additive to prevent corrosion, is that required on a pressurised system? Or will the pressure of the system prevent oxidisation taking place?
Cheers Dan
Oxidization IE oxygen in the system its what usually causes that If everything in new rads pipes boiler all sealed you lose No pressure no fresh water in the system then you shouldn't need it But its a good idea to add something in as most additives also have lubrication properties in then good for the pump n you may also have to top up the system occasionally so yes for few quit its worth it just the once GL
I have been having problems with the pressure release valve on my Worster 28 CDi boiler for the last 3 years. I have had the same plumber come to fix it three times each time he replaced the pressure release valve. I am yet again back to bleeding the up stairs radiators and having a constant loss of water pressure in the boiler. Yes it is the pressure release valve again. BUT WHY!
Each time the plumber came to fix the problem he took a track pump into the boiler house with him with. I suspect to check the air pressure in the expansion vessel. I know he did not draining the system first and thus must of been getting an incorrect reading and possibly putting to much air into the expansion vessel this would then cause the pressure release valve to open and drain the system of water pressure.
After watching your video I checked the pressure in the expansion vessel and it was up to 2.5 bar. I have come to realize the plumber may of given me some poor advice in saying to keep the water pressure to 1.5. The combination of there being to much water pressure in the boiler and to much air pressure the expansion vessel is the cause of the pressure release valve continually opening and dumping the water pressure. Tomorrow I will drain the system down and alter the pressure in the expansion vessel then refill the system. Fingers crossed this solves my on going problem. Brilliant video put it all in a simple format even i could understand thank you very much Good Job.
Just done this to clean and then inhibit old Worcester system. When I got to the part of checking for leaks, the boiler had a steady drip under it. The plumber I called said air relief valve probably gone cos water pressure too low. Is that likely to have been caused by my mistake and I need to drain differently, or just a fault with the design / age of the boiler? You know which answer I'm looking for ;)
+Neil Stoddart No, it's just a common one on those mate!
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Isn’t there a requirement for boarding the path to any gas boiler in a loft ?
hiya i was just wondering if you know of any plumbers in and around ashford kent tht would be interested in taking on an apprentice or plumbers mate as im desperately trying to get my nvq2 and a entry into plumbing and gas? big fan btw
Can I flush the system using the filling loop while it's draining or is mains pressure too high?
I have 2 drain cocks at lowest point. ?
Yes, you can. But to be safe, open the feed valve on the loop with caution: if the system is correctly installed, there will be a pressure relief valve, which will open if safe pressure is exceeded, but it is safer not to exceed 1.5 bar pressure when flushing out, so open the feed valve gradually till the pressure guage reads 1.5 bar. Make sure any motorized valves are open when draining down, and always drain off all drain points. Refill the system, top up while venting. Cold pressure after refill/venting should be 1 bar.
@@johnschlesinger2009 many thanks.
Hi my combi boiler at home is pressurised to 1 bar but when heated it rises to 3 bar. Do you have any ideas of what could be wrong ?
Thanks
Expansion vessel failure mate.
Don't forget to re-balance all the rads, particularly as you made a point of making sure that all the TRVs and lockshields were fully open. Otherwise a great video..!
My boiler pressure is dropping to below 1 bar and over 2.5 when the heating is on
Just had a free boiler installed. Not a combi. Had the underfloor and loft insulation done for free too. Happy days!
Had a bunch of problems since the instal. Initially, lots of air getting into the rads, had to bleed 4/5 times a day. No sign of a leak. They fitted a vent valve to the top of the boiler. No more air in rads but now the boiler makes a terrible noise when coming up to 73°+. If I bleed the top of the boiler, it goes away for a few hours, then returns.
Went on a mini break and had the heating off for 2 days, it has made the noise a little better, but still there.
They’re saying they’re going to pressurise the system as they reckon it’s a flow problem. Never had any issues before this. Any ideas?
what happens if a pressurised unit is fitted with a open vented system using a n F/E Tank? ? by MISTAKE, What would happen ??
Not a lot. It would work but not the best!
Its Not what i was looking for to be honest i just pressurized by open vent system for one reason n that is to make sure there is no pressure drop IE no leaks my question is simple is there a pressure switch i can fit on the system so my feed to the boiler/pump goes through it n is the pressure drops say Bellow half a bar the switch wont maintain contact IE shutting the power to the pump/boiler? i know Vailants used to have something similar ( was it called interrupter?) but that was heat not water pressure sensitive that was strapped on the outside of the flow pipe, am retired now many years ago but i dread to think the pressure drops to zero through bellow the ground floor pipe leaking yet the boiler n Pump are still supplied with power and working so far so good But if there Is no pressure switch that cuts off the power going back to an open vent system i was thinking maybe something like an OIL pressure switch but if i can get any fittings to adopt that n how low a pressure do they work am not sure also If they make instead of break with loss of pressure its still ok as i can use a relay am sure Combis must have something like this build into them but can I buy one? its Just not safe enough the pressure dropping n the boiler pump still working If you can help i be very grateful cheers
If its open vented how can you prrssurise it.
simple mate, cut into the expansion pipe (the vent pie) n connected the side going to the boiler to the pressurized vessel output seal the cold water feed to the boiler connected the mains water to the non return valve on the input to the mains n from the pressure relieve valve to the outside ( not actually done it yet as the boiler its in where the outside toilet was so If it discharges any water there its no big deal lol what i found out it the amount of heat the standing pilot is producing i did not know this B4 as all the heat was going up the expansion pipe pressure seems it goes down couple of 10ths of a bar after pressurizing n then stays there
@@polygamous1 your converting it to sealed.
yes of course mate i had to to make sure the system is sound as its time to change my very old but 100% reliable Potterton boiler, talking about boilers there is No better boiler on earth to have when things go wrong, their guaranteed Is EXCELLENT no one even comes close, i once fitted a neutaheat but was faulty from new (Very rare for a potterton) i phoned them Friday after noon they said they'll try or tomorrow or Monday next Morning Saturday by the time i got to work there was a Potterton van with two blokes n a new boiler WHERE ON EARTH CAN YOU EVER GET SERVICE LIKE THIS?
2 Vaillant the old 242 Vailants had a time delayed mehanism build in to the boiler adjustable from 20 to 12 minutes (if i remember right) so every time the temperature called for heat the auto ignition would,'t keep firing too frequently to prolong its life to by pass even if 2 minutes was too long for you all you had to do is turn the mains of n back on to temporary disabled the mechanism had trouble with this once they send 3 different engineers down they all gave be different crappy excuses until i spoken to their service manager than he sand a bloke down he changed the eletronic delayed mechanism and was all sorted one time my mate installed a newer Vaillant water was fine heating nothing first vailant bloke told him Must be blockage in the pipes he broke all the tiles in the Kitchen to find the pipes where clean after few visits from Vaillant engineers nothing was sorted so i though yes i go n see if i can help, you will Not believe it mate you turn the heating on But the diverter valve was stuck on hot water the domestic heat exchanger was burning hot yet they just had to blame my ate instead n it cost him plenty i will naturally replace by Potteron for another Potterton even i must admit vaillants are excellent n very reliable i like to know if things go wrong i have the best team on earth to help me
looked like a horror movie
Plumbtastic.