2 PORT VALVES CENTRAL HEATING WIRING
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- Опубликовано: 1 май 2024
- All about 2 Port Valves central heating and Wiring! I'll show you how easy they are to wire on a heating system by ignoring the neutral and earth wires until last and concentrating on the switched lives. Be sure to leave a comment and I'll answer it on Wednesday nights video!
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Hope you enjoy guys! This'll either help or confuse you more! *_Comments Answered by Monday on Wednesday's video!_* HIT THE SUB AND BELL!!!
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Pls my programmer thermometer can’t turn off the central heating and I don’t know if the two port valve is gone, but the hot water can turn on and off, but the funny thing is when it’s on the heating also comes on...Pls what’s the problem of my system thanks.
Cracking vid 👍👍👍👍👍
@@kwamenkansah8814 100% New 2 port valve bud!
Thx so much, that's what I need for Tomorrow. Now I can start drinking.
@@john-paulcox918 free de de
im an apprentice electrician and this has helped me loads just to understand how the plumbing side works because fault finding on these system can be a nightmare, i understand how it works now so it should be easier to install and/or fault find on
Yesterday you taught me the basics of unvented cylinders with your videos. I spent the evening going over and over this. Today I'm hungry to learn more and now looking in more detail at how the various components work together. And I do like your t-shirts!.. had a little look online
I went on a course last year and a tip for remembering the wiring for a 3 port valve...
White heat
Grey water
Thank you James. Your video has helped me identify my central heating problem and explained how the two port valve is switched and connected to an S plan system.
My problem was that I noticed the pump was continually running with the boiler on until it locked out when the water became too hot.
Despite switching off from the program unit the pump & boiler continued running.
Your video helped identify a faulty micro switch in the Danfoss two port valve (central heating side) which was replaced under guarantee installed in a new house only 1 year old.
Interestingly, both the boiler engineer and the plumber, who replaced the unit, said three other houses on our development had the same micro switch problem with the Danfoss valve.
Thanks again for your video
Great video Jim, much simpler then the hard way!
Fantastic video as always!
You explained the s plan wiring system perfectly 👍
Excellent tutorial - helped me diagnose my sticky valve. Ordered a new one with your Amazon link. Nice.
Probably one of your best videos ever. Made something that looks complicated look easy. Really enjoyed it. 😀😀
Cheers dude!
Excellent informative video mate.
The lights for a visual were a nice touch
Will help me out
Cheers for the video it's really simplified this 👍👍
Great explanation thanks James.
Great Video - very well demonstrated simple explanation to a complex system. Keep them coming and hold tight!!
Cheers Tone!
Great video bud, can't wait for the next one, on a y plan and 3 port valves.
Thanks for all your support and Guidance
Top video - Not only this confirm what I'd worked out what needed to be done but it was entertaining too!
Thank you I now understand the wireing bit better now 🙏
Great video James, remember to hold tight
Thank goodness for this video! I am trying to install a hive system in our house
Great way to show people Jimmy, love this vid
Cheers bro!
Thank you for so clear video
thanks is the best video im studing the level 2 and your videos help me a lot
Great 👍🏽 stuff good explanation and practical
Jimbo strikes again. Quality video!!
Seems like this lady needs you often. i'm glad I'm not on first name terms with my plumber. Good video by the way, well explained!
Just looking at your port valve video. Many thanks
Great video mate.
HOLD TIGHT
Brilliant video 👍🏼
You are a better teacher than my college tutor
I love it mate S plans used to confuse me sooo much man😩 thanks💯‼️
No worries bro!
Thanks for this video I have learnt a lot from just seeing this. Always found s plan and y plan a bit confusing but u made it look simple even i understood this lol
Even you Sam!
Awesome vid, thanks so much!
thanks very much for doing the video
Brilliant tutorial Jimmy cheers sandy
No worries!
Those TimeGuard wiring centres are the best
Great video. Thanks!
I...CANNOT...STOP...WATCHING...THESE...VIDEOS!!! (Awesome vid mate, now where is my 2 port valve?) 👍
In the hard to get to place!
Thank you for this. I couldn't understand why my boiler was staying on when neither the timer nor thermostat were calling for it, now I think I get it - my zone valve is stuck on.
Thanks 🙏
great video.....thanks a million
Hey where does the black cable coming out of the motorised zone Valve connect into? I noticed it's like 2m or so long cable. Does it matter if my underfloor heating manifold is downstairs and my boiler is upstairs?
7:32 how I am forever going to talk to the pump while wiring it up. 😂😂
Very interesting video. Well explained. Just wondered if you have ever come across a programmer with at least 4 periods of on/off. The only ones I can find have a maximum of three.
very helpl
Big up the apprentices 💯🔥🔥💯💯
I feel like I just got a personal shout out 🔥🔥🔥😎
Nice job mate, you’d be surprised how many sparks struggle with this
Had an issue with the room thermostat not working, would you recommend using the manual mode in a 2 port value to attain heating
C plans, W for fun maybe links for smart systems...nest, hive, etc
hi, I have 3 zone heating (ground, first floor and water with climote) and I lost heating on first floor. Plumber is not available for 3 weeks but he told me it is the motorised valve. So I got it and replaced but nothing changed. so I started looking for schematics online and testing different things. Your video helped a lot. What I found is that valve is working fine but the live never gets to valve to move that arm to press button on microswitch. Seems simple enough but some wires goes into wall and can't figure it out completely. Mostly because the lives that go out for the 3 valves behave weird. I mean when I call 1st floor heating, the correct live fires up but then goes inside wall and does not come back to live in valve and valve does not starts boiler because microswitch is never pressed. For water it works perfectly but when I call downstairs the 2 lives from controller unit for 1st floor and ground floor go live, go into wall but only the one for downstairs gose live at the valve.
This is where I am stuck as I don't know what happens in the wall (although after watching this for second time I think it might be something with pump. I was only thinking about starting boiler...) and I don't understand why when calling ground floor 2 wires go live ( and from climote schematic they are ground and 1st floor N/O respectively). Wish I could get you to look at it but unfortunately I am in Ireland.
This is wrecking my head for week now...
Hi James,
Excellent video with simple explanations for amateurs like myself, so thanks for that.
I wonder if you could please recommend a ‘simple’ wiring change which would delete the mid-position function my Honeywell 3 Port Valve on my ‘Y’ Plan System, and stop the Motor still being energised if you switch off the Central Heating when it’s running.
As you know, if you turn off the Programmer’s Central Heating only switch (Port A open) when the system is running, then the 3 Port stays energised, with the result that the Motor is energised, although it’s against it’s mechanical stop, which shortens the Motor's life for no good reason that I can see. The only way to avert this is to switch on the Hot Water for just a few seconds after the Central Heating is switched off. This disconnects the live to the 3 Port and allows it to be spring assisted back to it’s default position of Port B open.
Additionally, I only ever use either the H/W Cylinder or Central Heating separately, never both together (Port A & Port B both open), and never the Timer of the Programmer, so the Motor is never required to “stall” in it’s mid-position by using the 110 DC Voltage via the Diode and Resistor circuit on the PCB in the Valve Head.
I’m asking this because my current Valve is a Honeywell V4073A unit, but Honeywell also produce the V4044 range, which look identical to the V4073A, except that the V4044’s are listed as 2 position “Diverter” Valves only, (no mid-position), which is exactly what I want to achieve (but without spending £ 100 +++ money or my fitting time !!!). Please accept my thanks in advance of your help, and I look forward to receiving your reply.
Cheers, Fred.
Rip wilo pump, lucky it was for education purposes. Good video 👍
The legend that is James from p/p ✌🏼 cheers j. Buy you a beer if i ever see ya pal.
Great video James 😁 your videos are very intuitive but also fun. If you ever think of a career change you could try teaching 😈👍🏻
Hi Jimmy if I want to split two floors a house with combi boiler and two wireless thermostat can I use a Port valves? And do you made any videos for this
Great video, can you tell me why the motorised valves need a permanent feed? That’s the only part I don’t understand
Great video as always James Ive always used regin 5 pin connectors when do 2 or three ports save keep disturbing the wiring centre 👍🏼
Do you use those Wago connectors?
@@plumberparts never tried them James are they decent? By the way top videos as always 👍🏼
David Berney cheers bro. Yeah they look good, but I’m going to try your idea!
@@plumberparts would love a sticker for my van James to promote your channel up in Mansfield Nottinghamshire give big g a fuss from me 👍🏼
The Regin connectors are great since they are an all-in-one plug so easy to disconnect when required. Evidently popular with all the plumbers that have visited our house over the years because 3 of the 4 port valves are all spliced into the system using them. The last valve head gave up recently so picked up a replacement and used a Regin connector (well actually used a Wago box for a few days while I waited for a Regin to arrive in the post!).
How would you got about introducing an underfloor heating control centre with 2 zones. so overall radiators being controlled by one valve and nest, and the other valve controlling the water to the UFH with 2 zones each controlled by nests.?
On your ferrule photo update, what was the cable ties/grouping product you used? Can’t find the photo now.
Is there a way to wire the valve control to a mains switched controlled supply with a tank thermostat.
I’ve a 2 zone heating S plan , controlled by 2xRF stats. Also an RF tank stat.
Only 2 zones on the programmer…
Want independent manually switched hot water ..
i watch many of your videos, GREAT CHANNEL. Any chance of that Y plan /3port valve video??? cant seem to find it in your back catalogue :)
Hi, I wna ask, 35kw combi boiler will work ON 12 radiators 2 bathrooms and
2 smallzones UFH??
Great video👍👍👍
Cheers dude!
plumberparts even though i didnt watch all of it i said that because i know all of your vids are great
@@ApplianceGuy Cheers mate love you!
Really enjoy the videos, do you have anything on replacing water cylinder when a gas aga which supplements the hot water is involved, seem to have 4 outlets from my old cylinder
It's almost a C plan....new video perhaps!?!?!?
Can I get the permanent supply for the micro switch from the switched live on the 2 port valve instead of an independant permanent supply? It will give the micro switch a live supply when the valve is selected?? Thanks
Hi Everyone just starting out and was looking for a video on how to change a filter on a combination valve if at all possible
excellent
4 Pipe Hot Water Priority for the win!
Can you also make a video of Vertical Flue from Loft please I know how to do it and did few just want to make sure doing right way
Great video James - looking forward to the Y-Plan follow up because that's what I have at home.
Unrelated question - the header tank in the loft always overflows to outside around 1-2litres of water each time the heating system is switched on, are there any things I can try first before calling out a plumber? Thanks!
I’ll answer on Wednesday!
The water level in the storage tank is too high , check that the float valve is cutting off properly first . If it is lower the float a couple of inches , this will allow for the expansion when you heat the hot water from the heating system.
Probably happening due to a faulty automatic bypass valve not allowing flow during pump overrun and forcing out the open vent. Some people don't bother installing a bypass with a Y plan as the hot water circuit is left open after it's deenergised and acts as a bypass. The problem is it's a small opening and can still force some water out the open vent, rasing the water level in the cistern to overflow
fit a bypass
Should my two port valve be in the auto position all the time?
Have only 1 motorised valve so can I heat water independently to heating with stat and time clock ,plumber only put in one motorised valve
When are you doing the three port system ?
Hi fitted a room thermostat on my S plan, system boiler and it's tripping the circuit breaker. I'm not sure why this is happening? Can you help please???? The boiler is a Glow worm
Another helpful video for new starters, or just a refresh 👍🏼
Instead of a 13amp fused Spur, pop a 3amp in there, much safer. 🙂
Hi, I have this type of set up on my system. But I cannot control zone two independently. Boiler receives the signal, the burner starts and goes off quickly. Valve 2 is opened but I have no flow inside radiators. CH flow is hot but CH return is cold. But when zone 1 calls for heating both zones are heating. Any clues?
If my boiler pump continues to operate when both two port valves are closed via the programmer, do I suspect a fault with the motorised part of a two port valve. In other words may the micro switch not be operating as it should.
use regin connectors they help you change without going into the wiring centre which is usually hell
my hot water and heating issue is when I turn water on I'm getting heating with it and when I turn heating on I'm getting hot water with it this issue is since the 2 port zone valve is replaced is it to do with miswiring. If so how can I fix this
Hello there, I would like to ask you why you can hear the water circulating through the pipes? it is very disturbing especially at night when it is quiet. I have the heating system divided between the upper and lower part of the house and I can use them independently or together. The idea is that the valves are installed in the bedroom in the dresser (that's how I bought the house) and my child can't rest at night because of the noise.
If I manually turn off any of them, the noise disappears. What to do?
Can I send you a video so you can see what the problem is please?
So, if you use the manual override on the two-port zone valve (for the central heating), does that mean that the boiler hot water pump will be on continuously, no matter whether the room thermostat and timer switch are on or off?
no
JW John ward electrical guru, uses greys as permanent lives to valves and oranges switched live to boiker/ pump. How would you wire a S-plus with two or more heating zones? Take a feed from terminal 4 on programme to a room stat, then to the brown on a zone valve for that heating circuit? If you had a pump on each circuit would you wire the pump feed from the brown or orange / grey which ever is the switched to bring the pump on?? Thanks
Doesnt matter how many zones.all oranges together and all greys together.1 or 20 its the same.take pump live to brown on zone valve for multipule pumps
@@davidlax9454 Bit late to the party but…
Im wiring the controls for a 2 zone system (ufh and central heating) the ufh is a simple set up with just 1 zone so no actuators for each ufh circuit but there is a pump for the ufh that needs to come on ideally with the orange switched live from the ufh zone valve however I don’t want it to come on with the central heating as well. I was planning on using a relay to prevent this from happening but have read comments on other peoples videos saying to just feed the ufh pump from the brown switch live operating the zone valve. Would this cause any issues over time with the ufh pump starting to run as the zone valve starts to open?
@@euanowen4233 best way to do it.connect ufh pump to zone valve brown and use microswitch (grey and orange) to fire boiler.no relay needed
@@davidlax9454 thank you!
This is fantastic, I don’t know what better than fantastic (grammar is limited) but I know how my heating system works. Thank you, thank you, thank you. You are the man! If I see you, I’ll kiss you on the lips.
Thanks once again.
Hi there does anyone know when on hot water and heating and hot water my 3 port valve keeps clicking and don't come to a rest postion
Thank you.
I luv u man
I'm a industrial door engineer,why did I watch this ? : )
Because Coronovirus!
Because it's entertaining.
James, don’t put solder on your wire ends. See electrical regs for reasons. If nothing else some fluxes corrode the wires and make a mess
How often do you come across a faulty two port valve body, not the motorised part.
James use the sparky screw driver.😎
Interesting how different things are done in UK and US compared to Denmark. How is it possible to control the heating in a big house from a room thermostat in a single location ?
Large houses are usually separated into 2 or more zones with separate thermostats and valves
I have installed mine but for some reason the arn isn't touching the button to turn the water on I'm not sure if I have wired it up wrong but I did the silly thing and took all the wires out can someone help
I've a buffer thermal storage tank. I need to turn on a load when top stat drops to 45c and not turn off until bottom stat reaches 50c. Can anyone tell me what device I need to do this? tia
Hi, how would this work if I wanted to add a second heating zone? Thanks Scott
Add another room stat and 2 port , you can have as many 2 port valves as you need . A lot of new houses have 3 2 port valves , 2 for heating zones , 1 for hot water
dennisphoenix1 hi thanks for that. That’s what I was planning, will just need to work out how to prioritise
@@scottisle2550 you could use a time clock to bring on one zone earlier than the other , I always set timers to bring on the hot water half an hour earlier than the heating, gets the water hot without starving the heating.
@@scottisle2550 you can use a 3 port valve to supply 2 heating zones , in mid position you get 50/50 flow to each zone , depends on your set up
Found Big G....Finally!
Where?
Wiring in from scratch. Easy.😀 Retrofitting a valve can be a nightmare working out which wire is which when opening the lid on the wiring centre. There may be more than one wiring box in the real world. Potential nightmare😚
Can anyone explain, why he's wiring where he is. I understand the principles but unsure what governs what terminals you use etc etc. Trying to gain a much better understanding. Is it just following wiring diagrams in the manuals?
What's wrong with two pumps, two NRVs and a changeover relay ? I have been doing this for 30 years !
Another bodge up James your getting to be a expert now lol
I'll bodge up your arse! (only joking!)
@@plumberparts i hope you normally have your botty out while working its all part of the service Madame keep up the bodging James be nice if you did a bit of singing to keep us entertained my dad was known as the singing plumber and still knocks out a good tune at 76 lol
I would like to see a C plan system
BOOM!
No crimp-on bootlace ferrules on that multistrand cable James? Naughty boy.
Sorry David, I'm extrememly upset by my behavior.
@@plumberparts bodger lol
Charlie Willis 😜
@@plumberparts im Lee willis its my sons account so i can make a right tit of myself and blame him lol
@@plumberparts Mr G slap and we'll move on.
👌