BYPASS VALVES ON S PLAN AND Y PLAN HEATING SYSTEMS - Short Cycling prevention - Plumbing Tips
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- Опубликовано: 5 мар 2016
- This video is all about the bypass valve on your heating system. They can be found on S plan, Y plan and C plan heating systems but also on Combi systems. They are very important when it comes to having a happy heating system, with proper flow around all the radiators and hot water coil without too much stress on the pump.
We cover where they are in relation to the system, how they work and how to set one up. For any more help, please comment below and we'll try to help you out!
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Hi James, you're a gifted teacher. If you don't already tutor in some capacity, please do, even if it's just a few hours at a local college. They need people like you.
Super!
Had a plumber replace a 2-port valve. After he left, kept getting the L1 error for low/no water pressure. (As TRV’s and or stat would stop calling for heat).
Thanks to this video I realised he had shut the by-pass valve completely while changing out the two port heating valve and never returned it to its previous position. Opened it up a touch and no errors since.
Saved me time and money 👌 Excellent quality video and explanation
Great video, I'm in my new house trying to figure out the system, excellent explanations and info of the BPass system. Many Thanks
Very useful, as always - thanks! And Hold Tight!
added to my playlist. Hold Tight!
Thanks as always James. Watched you for last 5 years. Going back over older videos. Please start making more again haha.
What's the difference compared to bypass radiators or the different benefits. Thanks 😊
Hi James
Very many thanks for your brilliant videos. I thought I'd share my own experience in case it's any help to your subscribers. Here we have a cascade of four different problems. The situation was this, my daughter has a small flat with an air source heat pump. Separate zone valves direct hot water to an underfloor heating manifold and the hot water cylinder. The zone valves are controlled by a Towerchron timer. Roomstats activate the manifold valves. The living room was not getting properly warm. I called in the excellent local plumber and asked him to blow through the living room pipes. He gave the system a quick once over first and noticed that the Hot Water Cylinder zone valve was stuck open. This could well explain our problem with water short circuiting through the cylinder and not getting to the underfloor pipes adequately. Unfortunately this seemed to make the problem worse. Now that the hot water system valve was closing properly, the heat pump was giving a "low flow" error. The plumber identified another problem, now that the zone valve was fixed, the flow through the underfloor would stop when the rooms came up to heat causing the "low flow" error. Quite rightly he said that the system should have had a bypass valve and fitted one. Soon the system got worse still and the "low flow" error came on all the time. It seems that the good flow through the underfloor system may have flushed out debris and blocked the filter. He cleaned out the filter which improved matters, but still the heat pump gave the error message when the rooms came up to temperature. Now that all the other problems had been sorted, it was back to the bypass valve which was adjusted down to about 0.2 bar to allow water to flow through it when required, and, with a very great sigh of relief the system seems to be working properly.
Love your vids, there really helping me in my plumbing nvq at college thanks :)
+LewinTheUKGamer Cheers dude!
Good work James! Showing one of the many advantages of our Yonos-PICO. LED display makes life nice and easy!
+Wilo UK Cheers guys! See you at Installer?
I have Wilo variable speed circulators in mind now. Have done for some years. The problem is, I've 2 spare Grundfos circulators in the garage.The second was a replacement for the first. The first was cleaned out/flushed and is ready to be used again. The second was replaced unnecessarily by the government in favour of an unbranded one.
What controllers do you provide for the variable speed circulators ? How many 'call for pumpage' terminals are there ? I'd hope for 3 - 1. low pressure, 2. high pressure & 3. full speed. Where 1. and 2. have pots so one can actually choose/tune the supplied pressure. Current system, zone 1 (TRVs) I'd want low pressure and for zones 2-5, full speed. It'd be useful to be able to vary the pressure by the number of zones active - so feed a terminal with 240V via resistors on each zone - so the more zones active, the nearer to 240V is provided to the pump.
Really interesting, and quality, as ever. Thanks
+woodbine66 CHEERS DOOOODE! PP!
This video was really good made me understand how it works alot better ! was struggling with this
+Jake Miller Cheers Jake and no worries mate! PP!
Very good as always!
As always Smashed It!
Thank you for replying.The central heating has a separate feed an exspansion .The hot water cylinder is a Tornado I don't know if it is called a mega flow. All I do know is that it has an internal,integral exspansion. Operating pressure is 1.8bar with mains water pressure of 12 bar.It has a tundish to outside which I believe is set operate at 100 degrees
I held tight, glad I did, thanks
Nice one James. I was asked a while back why this circuit was in place and now I know! Very educational. And good to see Big G in on the action. 😂 👍
Ha cheers dude. Btw sticker on they way this week. Got loads to post!! Jimmy at PP!
+plumberparts thanks mate!
thx mate this is really helpful , iam from Tunisia and i almost watched all your video that you made , so next year ill move there to England to be wiv my lovely wife so i can continue work plumbing at least knowing the basics of the plumbing systems there :)
+khaled chbil Good luck dude!
Ur wlcm
sharing knoldege is power especially if you want to learn. thanks mate
No worries Serkan!
Great videos man. Cheers
Great vid! I was wondering if you still do jobs around the Cambridge area. I would really like to use your services please.
Thank you James for sharing with your knowledge. I wonder if would be possible to consult my heating system project with you?
Honestly you need to set up a teaching centre!
Hi there. Quick question - I have combi boiler running eleven radiators, ten with Hive TRVs and one without. My plumber recommended fitting automatic bypass valve to be able to fit the eleventh with a TRV. All good so far but boiler is now running pump constantly and has significantly increased electricity use.
Is this simply a property an automatic bypass valve I’ll have to live with of can the pressure setting be changed to reduce need for pump to be on constantly?
GREAT GREAT Vid. My heating has been poorly setup (or hacked about) before I moved in. The return flow to the boiler was like 50C . Needless to say the boiler wasnt firing up for the demand on the heating circuit (S Plan, Sealed 'Unvented). The two bypass valves above the zone valves were FULLY OPEN. OMG. No wonder the pump went and the cowboy plumber just replaced it without checking out the system. Anyway, thanks to this vid, I'm sorted the system out , myself. JAMES :- My Bypass valves are 20 turns to fully open (my hands are small and its a confined space), how much should I open it (from closed). I dont have an automatic pump with led display. I live in a 10yr old (newbuild) three storey house, 10 rads, S-Plan Unvented Indirect (HW) system, not though, I cannot "hear" any water "hissing" when I turn the wheels nor can I feel the pipe cos its clad in some hard foam type stuff and I dont want to break it. I'm guessing maybe 2 turns out from closed?
Fitting a new combi and UFH. Fitted a zone valve for UFH and also for the Radiators. Is it best to fit an ABP valve? This would have to be about 700mm of pipework away from the boiler is that ok?
Could you do video on converting venting hot water cylinder to unvented one please. Thanks mate
Superb 👌🏼
Brilliant
Cheers buddy 👌
Hi, great video, we have a pressurised 'S' plan system, do I need a bypass valve if some of the radiators are towel rails and are not fitted with a thermostatic valve?
Awesome video, I assume you would not add a bypass if you have a low loss header or closed coupled tees?
Nice watch! . . . Video was good too!
+David Bell Thanks Dave! 'Slo Jo' for your info! PP!
Hi, thanks for the video. Yesterday my husband turned the two red valves on the boiler cos he thought they would help with one of the radiators that wasn’t heating in the house. Now we have no heat and boiler is making a funny noise when we turn on the heat or water. Do they need to be turned fully anti-clockwise or just halfway
Can 15mm piping be used for an auto bypass valve in an splan system? What length would be acceptable?
Many thanks. Geoff
I have a Y plan system with a radiator set as a bypass, what's the minimum amount the lockshield should be open? Great videos by the way.
Really interested in that pump you mention. Could you post a link please.
I only put the ABV on the zone with TRVs. That zone has 2 'leaks' on it anyway as well - through the tops of the bathroom and kitchen rads - to effect a towel rail - where only the top inch of the rads gets hot.
None of the other zones (4) have a bypass so they get full pressure and do not have TRVs.
I have had no circulation - due to iflo/Drayton zone valve microswitches failing but as the Veissmann boiler limits at 80, it doesn't boil.
I have a automatic bypass valve between the flow and return on my radiator system, I originally had TRV on all radiators other then bathroom. I have removed two from the hall way and would like to know of the actual way of calculating the pressure setting on the ABV?
why the cat face! love cats and this made me crease! so random, just brilliant!!!
Fantastic
Is this valve present on the combination boiler as well?
Great video - wondering if you can throw some light on my system issues.
Have Worcester Bosch 40CDi feeding five two port valves. These valves associate with two Myson underfloor manifolds (ground floor )one mains pressure hot water tank and two conventional radiator circuits (middle and then second floor?
Recently replaced the auto bypass valve with a new Honeywell du145.
I can’t get the boiler to stop cycling unless I turn the middle floor and hot water valves. If I turn on just the top floor the boiler goes over temp and cycles, same with just the hot water. Bypass valve doesn’t seem to reliably make a difference.
Bypass is fed directly off the pump (grundfos 25/80 set on constant pressure 2)… proportional seems worse. Bypass valve is connected to rtn (just after a pressure vessel set to 1.5bar)
Any ideas? I’m out of ideas.
My expectation is the boiler should be able to run at minimum burner with any circuit on and not keep cycling.
I have a combi boiler with 2 zone valves, 1 does the house rads and the other does my garage conversion rads. When the thermostat in the house is up to temperature but the garage requires heat, the correct zone valve does its job but my boiler then starts to make a high pitch squeal like the pressure has increased too much on the other zone. Would a bypass valve solve this?
Great vid as usual James, nice one mate. Where are you based?
He's based in the loft ;)
I'm fitting a unvented hot water tank in loft direct type to take advantage of excess solar power I have all plumbed in 22mm was thinking about fitting a 3 port valve between combo boiler outlet and tank outlet so can switch on boiler if tank runs out if no sunshine problem is very small ports in 3 port valve think mite reduce flow
Good vid could you do a video about how filling loops work
+Zack Handley Will do!
@@plumberparts Perhaps include it in a video of how pipes work.
Some people !
So you dont need Bypass valve at new modern Pumps or you recommended still instal Bypass valve?
i've put an auto bypass in my Y plan where the old gate bypass valve used to be in the airing cupboard and now my boiler is kettling even when the bypass is set to the most open. I had to open both radiators without a TRV all the way to reduce the kettling, but it's still there. didn't have to do that with the gate bypass valve. before I opened the radiators right up, the pump was making horrific noises as if there was no bypass.
its a brand new grundfos pump too and i have to turn the pump right up to get the return from the bypass to get hot, but the boiler's still kettling. It's one of the £10 unbranded auto bypass valves from screwfix/toolstation. I've checked that the arrow on it is pointing the right way. should I have gone for the £50 honeywell? should I put a gate valve back in? the only unusual thing is that the old gate bypass was 18 inches of 15mm pipe from the pump to the return and ABVs only come in 22, so I've installed it with internal reducing olives on each side.
Hi mate your videos are awesome. I learned so much so thank you for that.
I was wondering if you can help me out a little though ( I don't ask for much do I!) I've got a small bathroom. It's got the set out like this Wall, 15-20cm space, toilet, sink looking at it left to right. Can I get one of those Japanese Bidet toilet seats in (it needs power) or its it too close to the sink. The seats are available in 240v.
Thanks again!
+Billy Taj I have no idea! :) PP!
Thanks James, great video...I have one pump, one three port valve and, I'm pretty sure, No bypass....I it might be built into the boiler but as that's a 15 yo Potterton, I doubt it. When the heating goes off for the summer, I switch the pump right down, also I don't have TRV's on every rad so I think that has the same effect, right? 🙂
+MrSbenn69 Kinda. Should be OK. PP!
Please sub >> ruclips.net/user/plumberparts
I know this is an old video but I could with some help regarding my UFH system whereby the supplier has suggested I fit an Auto Bypass Valve to the flow to the manifold because my water temp in the flow is far higher that what the setting on the mixer valve is set at.
If you had a teaching centre I’d come to learn heat only/ system Boiler
Could you do a video on fitting wall hung toilets? Thanks
+Heavyweightboxing Fan I'll add to the list!
+plumberparts Please do
so could u use that bypass valve to control the temp back to your boiler return line, say i wanted to maintain a boiler return temp of minumum temp, I am using a non condesing boiler so want to maintain a temperture of above 130 F
when you did the diagram, the flow from the pump to the cylinder coil, should have gone the top entry of the coil, I am sure that you know that, but not every body will,
correct me if I am wrong,
always enjoy your vids.
It's not actually critical but more sense to do it that way.
Sorry james, I just have a doubt if the flow of water has to be constant, this states that the pump is always on and never shuts completely but just decreases the pressure as at this stage it'll only need to pump up water in a confined space of the central heating system and not through all the radiator and cylinder, right? Could you be so nice to confirm this to me if what I'm saying is correct? And as well it will pressurise cold water only as the boiler is now switched off and not using the gas supply to heat everything up right? It would be really nice of you to explain this clearly to me. Thanks a lot in advance 😉
Hola hermano - does the by-pass also serve to ensure that some of the immediately heated water is fed back to the boiler so it is not receiving very cold water from the first fire up after standing idle for a while, so as to reduce condensation on the heat exchanger? Or was that just for old systems? Muchas gracias y saludos.
No.
Are they no longer required on 3 ports james
What is a throttle valve another red wheel. How far should that be turned left or right. It caused a water flow to thermistor prob on ideal logic 18. When resolved next day my new immersion n cylinder overheated. I reset it but water heats up to boiling almost in 15 mi s yet programmer says only 49 degrees
Great videos, thanks for posting. I have a quick question in relation to bypass valves. In a situation where a boiler, a direct H/W tank and the zone valves are all in close proximity like a loft, if using an automatic bypass valve, what is the minimum recommended pipe run required to allow the boiler to dissipate heat as potentially the boiler will only have a very short pipe run once all the zone valves close and the water is moving through the bypass valve. Should this therefore be considered and should some additional pipe run lengths be added into this circuit to allow for the boiler to cool down? I called Worcester Bosch on behalf of my plumber and although their instructions state they require a bypass, they don't have any comment to make in relation to how much run their boilers require to cool down. Any advice will be gladly received … :-)
No need for 'cooling down'. The circulation just ensures the boiler stat sees all the water temperature. Boiler stats used to be in the tank of water the flame heated - they didn't need water flow at all. Modern boilers have the stats in the 'flow' pipe as close to the heat exchanger as possible - but this means with no flow, there is a time lag for the stat to feel the heat - so the boiler gets hotter than planned. If it gets too hot like this, an overheat stat will trip and turn the boiler off until it's manually reset.
Ideal Icos boilers don't care - they are happy to really boil water !
pmailkeey brilliant reply and great detail, thanks so much.
Great vid trouble is you cant see anything with the blue text blanking it
Hey, Quick question, i have a vaillant system boiler which has a built in auto bypass, but i saw a comment on a forum that you need to add a separate one if you have a S plan. Is this true? Thanks!
No need for 2 !
Love the videos! Do you need a bypass valve if your boiler has one built in?
+Henry No mate!
+plumberparts Thanks! Keep up the good work!
+Henry hi its still better in my opinion further away from the boiler is best as it cools the boiler down better.
@@B1cam It's got nothing to do with cooling the boiler !
I've got a bypass on an open vented system with a three port, mid-position valve. Not sure what the purpose of the bypass is here though - doesn't the water always have somewhere to go with a mid-position valve? Is the bypass only in case the mid-position valve becomes entirely blocked somehow? Cheers for the many excellent videos.
Depends if the 2 zones can be stopped up - by TRVs for instance. If the zone valve 'sticks' in any position, can you still guarantee flow ?
It's good practice to put one in. The bypass opens if the system pressure increases when circuits close down due to them reaching temperature. This allows water to flow through the boiler - stopping lock out - and it also prolongs the circulator life. If in any doubt refer to the manufacturers recommendations.
I know this has been some years now but I do hope someone can chime in.
Can I use an automatic bypass on an unvented cylinder installed right next to the boiler in order to slow flow to the cylinder especially when both heating & hot water are both running?
I have a mains water pressure uñvented Ho water cylinder with an internal integral exspansion.vessel. How do I rècharge the exspansion vessel please.I know with an external vessel you can use a pump. Any advice wold be appreciated, peter hofman
+Peter Hofman Hi Peter, is it a Megaflow?
Hi great video, newbie to posting please bear with :).... i have a Ideal Vogue 26s (pwm modulated pump) Condensing Boiler in the loft with an S plan heating system , there is NO bypass valve fitted, could you advise on where exactly does the auto bypass valve need to be fitted ?...the Flow and Return 22mm pipes come down in parallel down through the ceiling in the airing cupboard (5mm apart very neat but a tight fit)....there is a Ideal filter fitted about 300mm below the ceiling , so thats a bit tight to fit it...then they drop down to a T section in the Return pipe for the filling loop then onto the 2 way valves in the lower part of the airing cupboard ...i could add a pictue that would explain the layout much better... if thats possible on youtube ?. .any advice /help would be much appreciated .
Bypass valve is already fitted inside the boiler. Simply google the question.
idealboilers.com/uploads/documents/Installation_Servicing_Vogue_Max_System_15_18_26_32.pdf
Hi can you offer any advice on a problem I have with my heating/ hot water Kingsplan Tribune HE system. The hot water is too hot, I’ve checked the cylinder stat by removing it and testing the bulbs in hot and cold water and I’ve also checked the zone valve servo motor is operating. So I set the stat to 25 degC but the water is way above the set point. Any ideas?
Turn boiler stat down.
So if I have one of these fitted to my system does that mean I can have a TRV on the radiator in the hallway? I was told that it could not have one as all the others have TRV's and one is needed to be left with a valve open for the system to work.
You shouldn’t have a TRV on the radiator that the room stat is in the same room as. The radiator will close down and make the room stat think the house is under temperature meaning you waste more gas. It’s also part of Building Regs
pretty sure i got a bypass on the return from the cylinder coil. In other words its been placed after the pump and 3 port valve and cylinder on the return to the boiler. no wonder that pump makes horrible noises!!!! cheers plumbing parts.
No worries Jason! Glad to help you out bro! SUBSCRIBE! ➡️👉 ruclips.net/user/plumberparts 👈⬅️ IF YOU HAVEN'T ALREADY! 😎
sounds to me like a lockshield gate valve which should be fitted on the cylinder return. that's not a bypass, that's to regulate the flow going through the coil. you don't need a bypass on a 3 port, unless there is a unvented cylinder then you need to add a 2 port and bypass. hope this helps
Oh right thanx good to know I'm 1st year plumbing student this website and youtube channel is so good. Makes much more sense then looking in the city and guilds book!!
Do I need a bypass valve on a combi system? I have a couple of 2-port zone valves for my rads and sometimes they bang when the heating comes on. I think I may need a bypass circuit installed before the zone valves.
Yes mate, can't hurt! SUBSCRIBE! ➡️👉 ruclips.net/user/plumberparts 👈⬅️ IF YOU HAVEN'T ALREADY! 😎
plumberparts cheers! love your videos. very helpful
No worries!
If you have a towel rail plumbed in independently, that'll do the job !
hi i have question
My thermostats giving Alert
(No Power Heat/cool System)
what dose this mean
and there something i can do….
I need more info! SUBSCRIBE! ➡️👉 ruclips.net/user/plumberparts 👈⬅️ IF YOU HAVEN'T ALREADY! 😎
Hello, may I ask you if a bypass valve is not needed on a y system ? this is what I have been said as my Ideal Boiler is having a constant FA code and after chaging the PUMP issue is still there.Before letting him do that , I would like to be sure he won't remove something important
Any competent professional will not be removing what is required. It's good practice to still install a bypass on a Y-plan system
You don't need a bypass on a y plan system, the 3 port valve will always allow a flow either through the hot water cylinder (default), through the heating circuit or both, (it will never close both ports at the same time). In heating only mode the radiator in the room with the main thermostat should not be fitted with a trv and it should never be turned off both sides of this radiator should be fitted with locksheilds so again there should always be a flow.
would changing from a feed and expansion tank to a sealed central system make the water flow better. ive a kitchen rad that wont heat and ive been advised this may solve it. ive tried EVERYTHING 😂
+Ror C It can do, but balancing the system should be your first port of call.
Sub here please>> ruclips.net/user/plumberparts
+plumberparts ive balanced it already but it didnt work. ive taken the rad off and washed it through to clear sludge. I tried to purge air as you show in your videos. the water will flow through the rad and flow out hot when i attach an open hose to radiator. this pointed a blocked return pipe. so i drained the system from the pipe i suspected was blocked and then blew pressure up the pipe. this left me convinced it wasnt blocked. had a plumber out and he suggested changing to a closed loop system might fix it but i dont want to part with cash unless it will repair
+plumberparts could it be the pump pressure is too low to push the water around?
The 'blockage' could be air - AKA an air lock. Turn all the other rads off at the valves, put the pump on it's fastest speed - and see if you hear bubbles rattling round the pump.
Hi I've just had a new baxi boiler fited replacing my powermax boiler I keeled the old radiators because my house is only 12 year old I had pressure drop problems with old boiler now with new. boiler to so come to the conclusion I've a leak but all pipes are in wall micro piping how can I test for leaking I've no damp patches any where hope u can help hold tight,
Sounds like you need a new house.
Is it only boilers with pump overrun that need a bypass fitted? Thanks
+Heavyweightboxing Fan No, most systems should have it. Especially with an outdoor boiler and frost stat.
+plumberparts great video as usual. Will be in the airing cupboard later looking for the bypass valve! My boiler is outside and has a frost protection stat. But only one stat wired up. Difference of opinion whether there should be one or two stats wired up to the frost stat? What's your view? Jeff
@@UKDPO John Ward's done a good vid on Frost stats: ruclips.net/video/e4MX1igMsjg/видео.html - BUT read my comments on that vid as to how I think it'd work best.
Could this be why im getting central heating when i only call for hot water?
A Central Heating System has many controls to operate, either you have a faulty control part or your system has not been piped correctly IE: needs alterations.
@@robinsoneveonline resolved now. Pipework wss issue. Return hw tapped into ch return
does a bypass go before the pump as well
No
I am getting hot water all the time my central heating is on and water off it is not a combi boiler
Hi mate. whats your opinion on these new pumps on old systems with not the best flow, as they slow down when they feel resistance , (its not always the best idea to start power flushing old system until the customer is ready to fully upgrade boilers rads etc) would they not require a pump that has some humph to compensate ?
+B1cam They're great the compensation pumps. Really good at a nice balanced flow!
why not to install on the boiler after the pump
???
Help...advice. Y plan system..30 odd rads, gravity fed cold feed and expansion were within 100mm each other South side of pump. Anyway..Did a Power flush, fit 25 new trvs. Cold feed back filling...vent fine but heating going up intermittently up the cold feed and F/E cistern over flowing. Been back tonns..Any Way we changed the cylinder for new stainless steel cylinder and converted to S plan. By pass auto..A auto air vent and even a Spiro air elimintor. Going back tomoz to fin wiring but I'm bout lost as to why it did it today? Oh I repiped a tower air separator in before the pump and cold feed within 50mm of it. I have mentioned converting to sealed but customer not fancying it due to pressure..Help?!
Mate. MAKE them convert to sealed system. Had exactly the same thing on a job a few weeks ago!
Doesn't solve the problem...
If the cold feed and vent are piped correctly and bypass working correctly there HAS to be a blockage somewhere
Don't get me wrong this guy knows his stuff with great videos, but there is still a problem that needs addressing in this case
@@plumberparts LOL - so you can't fix a loft tank issue - other than by replacing tank and making it a sealed system !
0:30 Just makes me laugh seeing valves half open ! And 2 of them in the same pipe is very silly !
I have installed Tado radiator valves on all my radiators and I hear the water flowing too fast when the system is heating only one radiator; I found I have a fixed speed pump on my boiler (Baxi Duo-Tec Combi 28 HE A); would a bypass valve help reducing the noise in my active radiator?
This guy reminds me Bradley Cooper.
Well, the scheme with pump on heated side is not good (less density,air bubbles of water hated likely to cause cavitation, etc) . Better to install the circ.pp on return line.
A up, I put my tank in my Loft
Are bypass valves needed on a Y plan system? Holding tight for an answer!
David Lodge - yeah they are bud, all types with controlled systems apart from combi’s, they have them built in. 🤗
Depends on the boiler :)
having a manual by pass valve part open all the time is silly and a waste of energy, a by pass valve only needs to open when a fault develops and stops water flowing it's normal path, this is why automatic by pass valves should be fitted as they only open if needed.
I wouldn't ever touch an unvented cylinder, they can blow your house apart, worst than a deadly gas leak that ignites
Very true! SUBSCRIBE! ➡️👉 ruclips.net/user/plumberparts 👈⬅️ IF YOU HAVEN'T ALREADY! 😎
Why would I want to subscribe to your channel. I wouldn't support. I'm not subscribing so you can gain finically or other out of me.
Dave Jones he's not going to gain financially from you unless a) you sponsor a video, or (b) you physically pay him. You're a mug if you equated "subscribing" with sponsorship. Subscribing is more a common courtesy for using / benefitting from free online content.
MasterCacophony So RUclips doesn't pay any contributions to his account.
Dave Jones but you're not RUclips, obviously. So whatever he might make from ads or views, it doesn't come from your pocket. You have no reason to resent a person making any small gain from producing popular videos. Especially when you are watching them.
You tall too much and no real practical advice how to do it.Sorry