Thanks a lot , Here is the checklist , 1 - Boost Hose 2 - Timing Belt & Oil Pump $$ 3 - Coolant Crossover 4 - EGR 5 - Oil Filter & Oil Cooling Gasket 6 - EGR 7 - If HSE with Sunroof than check under right seat , for any leakage 8 - Handbrake 9 - Door / Trunk Locks 10 - Bushes & Ball Joint 12 - Transmission ! $$$$$$$$ 13 - Drive Shaft Bearing 14 - Lift to Offroad Mode , then lock the car . Check tire clearances for air pump after 10 mins. $$ 15 - Listen to compressor while diriving , if there is compressor sounds in 10-15 second cycles , there might be problem.
Good summary!!! I have had to attend to 99% of those items mentioned in the last five years . Bought mine when it was 10 years old , now 15 years old. $$$$$$$$$$$$. Spent least $16k +. Owes me some good 4x4 reliability! Have Ctre and rear diff lockers . Almost unstoppable when working properly!
I no your pain haha bought mine for 17k owes me 43k now rear locker is next on mine list its starting to show signs of wear so will replace with a locker Do you have the factory lockers or after market
@@OUTBACKDiscovery I have a factory locker. on my D3 . Managed to get a second a second hand one for $550 . Installed by Roving Mechanical in Revesby , Sydney. They did not have to drop the diff. Saved me heaps of $$$. Total cost $1100. Alarms gone on dash. But yet to test it 4x4ing . 🙏🤞Hopefully all will go well
i just bought a 2006 labeled LR3 here in the U.S. Love the new rig and the community. I was a wrangler OIIIIO owner for years and nice to find a cool community here with the Land Rover. Took it in straight away after watching this for the transmission to get serviced and they replaced the entire rear drive shaft like you said :) The shop is owned by a couple of guys that worked at the dealership for 15 years and went out on their own. Much less expensive but I will start to do more of the work on my own moving forward.
awesome man there are a great offroader/ day 4wd you might miss your jeep at times when doing hardcore trails but i think on a day to day basis you will love your landrover more. P.S glad to hear my video helped i will be filming everything i do to my landy from small camping mods to magor repairs so hopefully they become helpful for you :) good luck
Dr Tranny Instant Shudder Fixx sorted my LR3 judder problem. Completely agree, it's all about preventative maintenance. I used to think it was a money pit but it has never left me stranded, I've learnt to do most of the maintenance thanks to yutubes like yours, and these days maintenance looks cheap compared to the cost of buying a new or near new similar spec vehicle. It's a keeper until it dies.
Yep the cost of a new 4wd is insane Dr tranny is just bandaid fix though will only by you time, I'd start putting money aside for when you start having shudder issues again , hopefully not for a long though 🍻 There worth the hassle 🤣
Well done mate. Big thank you for your effort in offering your experiences and advice. Good sense given about having to be clued in mechanically and staying on top of things.
Preventative maintenance is exactly right, not cheap (did this with my d3) but never got stuck in the bush anywhere. Wish I never got rid of mine but needed to save for a house. Lol
I love my d3 man I do wish it was solid axel though I may get a d2 as a play toy As you said though mine has always gotten me home but then when I give her a good once over after a trip will always find something that needs doing haha I hope your house was worth selling your landy mate haha
Idk but it seems like the diesel engine has more problems than the V8. My V8 has had 0 problems, im closing in on 130000 miles too. Everything original. Just changed the front shocks and my instrument cluster went out strangly, but thats it! My OG alternator is still putting out 14v!! Amazing.
The 4.4v8 is the pick of the bunch for sure there very hard to get your hands on in Western Australia though I wanted to get.one for my wife but they sell so fast
Great video mate. I’m looking at D3’s so really good to hear all this. I bet there was plenty of swearing under that bonnet! All the best from the UK. Subscribed!
Thanks mate if your not scared of maintenance it's a good car otherwise it will ruin your pocket 🤣 look for one with a decent maintenance history with extra work being done rather then just the basic servicing and u should be sweet
Thanks for the guide, and the channel is great. I wonder if the problems you have had with water and oil leaks and hoses are because of the hot dry climate you live in as here in the uk we get most of the same problems but not the water and valley leaks and blown hoses are usually because of dangerous mods causing over-boosting. But we get other problems like rust on the body sills and in the rear crossmember. Although I own a D3 SE 2005 the parts are a lot cheaper here so maintenance isn’t too bad, just have to find a dry few days to do it! It’s great to see an Aussie loving a Land Rover these days as everyone raves about Toyota,Nissans and Isuzu but for me they have no soul, maybe I’m biased I have a question for you (not a criticism) why does a man from a metric country driving a metric car use imperial tools ? Keep up the good work maybe do a rig walk round showing all your modifications I hope your channel grows and is successful Sending high 5’s from the UK 🇦🇺🇬🇧
Thanks for the comment mate appreciate your feedback i cop alot of flack off all the landcruiser / patrol boys over here thats for sure but you can't beat the comfort and ability combination of a landrover The boost hose blowing could well be due to the heat we are exposed to aswell as the coolant crossover one great thing about being over here is we don't get the rust problems like you guys do over there 😁 I do however struggle to get parts when I need them here I'm a diesel mechanic by trade and work on earth moving gear which depending on which make i work on can be either metric and or imperial as I upgrade tooling I bring my old stuff home ,alot of the tool I have a home now are from when I was an apprentice All the Japanese stuff... actually most stuff is metric apart from the American gear drives me crazy haha I do have mostly metric stuff but am familiar now with what size corresponds to each other nowadays eg 11/16 =17mm 3/4 =19mm
Also currently building a storage area where second row seat was and then planning on doing a walk around video on disco stu thanks for the recommendation. Still camera shy so I no my vids arnt as engaging as other channels
The noise from your park brake is it just needs balancing. One side is coming on before the other side. Check UK landrover forums for Bodsys brake bible and it will tell you how to sort your handbrake. Its happened to me several time and this sorts it. takes about 30min Hope this Helps.
I'm about to buy an SE and preferred air suspension, however do you see any downsides to air susp if its all working as it should? I'm looking to add spacers and rods from lucky8. I'm in Melbourne but ony a year, 20 years in Perth and plan to return very soon! Your videos are the reason i opted for Disco rather than Cruiser, you've done a real solid by helping us all do diy
Hey Chris nah air suspension is definitely the go I've got 3 sets of coils in my shed trying to get the right height haha Also I would just go either the Johnson lift rods or the llams ride height controller rather then strut spacers, strut spacers are a killer for your cv shafts was chewing through mine every 7-8months when 4wding with the strut spacers in compared to the 2 years previous without them where I had zero issues
Hello There, thanks for the informative video. Just wanted to check in with you about the oil pump change my cars vin starts with a 6A3 ?. I do not know whether is fall in the category of ones which require a oil pump change ?..
Morning dhahd moh the oil pump vin number is an unreliable source as I found out first hand with mine My oil pump failed after landrover telling me it was not in the failed vin number range the only way to find out is to look for the extra upport bracket on the oil pump if it doesn't have it then it needs replacing I go into more detail on this video ruclips.net/video/wdtBxiIltF4/видео.html
It's definitely a love hate relationship If you like tinkering on your cars then there fine if you want to buy something and forget about it with the occasional repair and general servicing then it's not the vehicle for you haha
@@OUTBACKDiscovery yes I think I'll keep it as a dream car only. Nissan Pathfinder might be a good consolation. There's a German couple that work in Land Rovero, LRTime is the RUclips channel
aftermarket oil water temp alarms work bought my d4 190000km the guy had spent 10k on it that included a new nav system, links, torque converter I go way out off the beaten track 200km from any house I had the turbo fault, I freed the actuator, by using a long rod with a hook, after the agents said I needed a new one in 18 months done only 14000km yes it is a beaut car but shockingly designed engine bay, V6 was a huge backwards step, bloody impossible to work on, I was a heavy engine mechanic to 3000bhp, and I could remove, rebuild a turbo on any Cummins in KW, WHITE PETE in half a day, on my disco I can not even see the turbo
Only just seen your comment mate don't no how I missed it Totally agree heavy diesel mechanic myself predominantly Hitachi diggers now ex3600,5600, and 8000's which run the cummin qsk 50 and qsk 60 great engine easy to work on and then I come home and it takes me 2 days to reseal my oil cooler on the landy I will tackle the turbo with the body on one day I'm sure it was come close to.breaking me though hahah
@@OUTBACKDiscovery yep, recently A/C trubble, new comp 3k LR got one from UK 850 inc freight, cos I had a stroke I had to pay British Offroad to fit it, 7hrs, where are you?
Thanks for putting the time into this video. I’m looking at getting one of these at some point so learning this stuff is good. I’m wanting to get an air suspension car. Cheers from SA.
No dramas mate hopefully it helps 😁 i don't blame you if I was to buy one again I'd go for the air suspension and just put some time and effort into ensuring its maintained correctly
OUTBACK Discovery yes. That seems to be the key. When people knock the discovery I remind them that whenever they buy their Land Patroller they still usually drop several extra grand on lifts, springs n shocks. No they look tough and drive well in really hardcore ooff road stuff but they drive like drunken camels during normal day to day running. They do have the bonuses of being lighter so more carrying up to GVM and I’m told parts are easier to source. Anyway, thanks again.
@@OUTBACKDiscovery I've had most of those issues myself, from 109k to 200k km, plus two front suspension airstruts (one failed about 2000 km from home, but it still drove me back), rear upper arms and turbo. My EPB is still original, if you can believe this. I would have also mentioned front wheel bearings as a common issue. I also had some oil leaking from the throttle body, as you have, so I changed all the gaskets there. They are cheap. Cheers!
@@AlexStrugariu yep I've been through 2 sets of front wheel bearings now they reckon if you go the timken brand you won't have dramas again so that's what ill be trying next , ill be making a part 2 to this video as I did forget a few things
@@OUTBACKDiscovery Mine needed a bearing right after purchase, so I went with Timken. Almost 100k km since then. The other front bearing had been replaced by the previous owner, and I'm not sure what brand it is.
honestly, ive owned 3 Discos....loved and hated all 3. I presently own an LR3 which i must say i purchased from a 1 owner with 148K miles. It was well cared for as the car fax report suggested. the purchase price was $7,700 and like my Mechanic and i agree, sure I could have purchased a Jeep for around 7K and would have to invest 4 to 5K in all the goodies to get the Jeep equipped well enough to go the places a Disco can go bone-stock, with some AT or MUD Tires, nothing more. Most recently I followed a buddy of mine in his $30K Rubicon with 12K in mods, through some very tough terrain, including 30 inch deep snow and ice and boulder problems.
Haha yeah man there definetly a love hate relationship and it takes owning one to understand there a passion more then a necessity And the landrover community is so much nicer then the Toyota, Nissan, Jeep communities in my opinion
Hi, nice review, I have one too and it's been great, 1 think I would do for the air suspension is replace the desiccant in the compressor, easy to do and worth the effort.
Thanks mate , yeah good advice!! I suppose that cheap bit of maintenance to keep all the moisture out would definetly prolong the suspension thats for sure
Wow, you're in Western Australia! Same here. Been looking into getting one for awhile and shuffling up between a few other 4x4. Just worrying about gearboxes but this helped with sussing it out when I go check one out.
@@OUTBACKDiscovery Whats your views on the Airbag suspensions for them? I seen yours isn't which is what I'm looking for but most of the ones that pop up for sale are.
Air suspension is great just needs to be maintained the compressor likes to play up but then you just but the updated version and your all sweet and reseal kits for the crossover valves are under $100 and a couple of hours labour to reseal I went for the coil sprung model initially as I was scared of the air suspension now I've researched it more if I could go back id probly buy air , that being said I do love not having to worry about leaks
I will say this I have owned a D4 for 4 years when I bought it the difference in cost between it and a LC 200 was minimal WTF was I thinking goes through my mind quite often. LR just isn't a long term keeper unless your weekends are empty and you need something to do. There are enough strategically placed critical plastic pieces on this car that only last so long it is very clear to me now this car made to last 7 to 10 years there after go with God. I will buy extended factory warranty for 2 years thereafter another warranty for 2 years then adios and I will then buy a LC 200 and have to pay in a fortune because of the massive depreciation of the D4 vs the LC. The gift that keeps on giving
unfortunately every vehicle i go out with now ends up with some sort of problem along the way during a trip, when i done the holand track after an unexpected rainfall both cruisers i was with done alternators. i done a cv boot the patrol done an idler bearing so it spat the serpy belt off. everything new today is built as a throwaway item or one use item. the more i work on my discovery the more i can see its strong points in design and its actually doesnt scare me as much in regards to reliability ... however that is provided that the owner does take care of there vehicle correctly preventative maintenance is definetly key
Great insight. I'm looking to purchase one that has had the airbag suspension replaced with spring suspension. Other than that, I wouldn't know what to look for so this is a good guide. TBH I'm not a mechanical guy.
Good video. Wow you guys sure get hosed on parts over there. I'm in Canada, and we have a few different options for things like rear driveshafts. 2-500 for a shaft here. We have a slightly different list of issues over here. We have the Jaguar 4.4, or the Ford 4.0L V6. Both are petrols.
Yeah parts seem alot cheaper over there but then the conversion to aus dollars bumps it up plus shipping haha The 4.4v8 over here is rare and everyone wants one but the v6 petrol is just as common as the diesel I would love to go over to Canada for a few years looks amazing
I've been putting it off , I need to drop my long range tank to get to it and it hurts my feelings everytime I look at it hahaha but will do it soon for sure
Hmm, great video. I’m not mechanically minded and I own a D4 with 120k on the dial. Do you know how many of these D3 vulnerabilities carried over to the D4? I am aware that proactive maintenance is a must rather than reactive and have a rover specialist looking after my services. I figure regular checks is the answer in my situation.
I don't no alot about the d4's to be honest unless they are the 2.7ltr model in which case they are basically the same running gear as a d3 The transmission in the 4's changed to a zf8 speed which is a great but however will suffer the same fate as the d3 if not serviced, Lower control arms are still a common thing aswell as the sunroof drains blocking and the park brake fault apart from that I'm not 100% sure The only other major thing is to service the engine regularly specially the 3ltr as they can have crank issues and the recommended way to prevent this is shorter engine oil change intervals instead of the 15k from dealers
Hi man, i'd like to buy a Disco 3 (or maybe 4) for my fishing adventures, it would be great if you could make a checklist of those things to check before buy one. it would be really great... thanks for this video!
Hey mate alright so 1. Make sure transmission has been serviced ( has steel pan not plastic) Check for transmission shudder when pulling away from and stop should be present at around 2000rpm if its not then tranny should be fine transmission flush will set you back between 800-1200 2. Lower control arms whilst driving over bumps listen for a knocking noise in the front lower control arms if knocking new lower arms with upgraded bushes and ball joint around $450 a side plus labour around 3-4 hours Or a bush kit at $300 plus 6-8 hours labour 3. Coolant cross over in engine bay if original one will require replacing around 150km plastic replacement $150 or alloy version $720 plus 1-2hr labour to replace 4. Lock the vehicle and check that all 4 doors actually lock if one doesn't then the mechanism is broke theres a mod to do for this will do a video on it one day 3hrs labour 5. Rear tail shaft centre support bearing check for cracking in the rubber and separation from the drive shaft , this will also cause a vibration at low speeds 6. Rear diff whine when driving New diff required or rebuild $1250-$2000 for diff plus labour 7. Oil pump if timing belt has been done check for updated oil pump proof if it hasn't been changed make sure the engine serial number is not within the number I put up in my video 8. Operate the park brake and make sure it doesn't alarm or isn't noisey If noisey the EPB gears are normally sheered $25 in parts and a solid 8-10 hr job to replace 8. Fan belt tensioner listen for a noisey pulley and if possible check for excessive movement in tensioner 9. If it has sunroofs check for wet carpets by front drivers and passenger seat if wet generally the sunroof drain tube are blocked and can cause major electrical issues long term 10. Raise car into offroad mode turn car off wait for 5 minutes and see if it lowers in any corner if it does then you have a leak somewhere 11. Listen when driving for the compressor cycling all the time if it does it can also symbolise a air leak somewhere, also if it takes a long time to raise vehicle then compressor could also be on its ways out There a great forby man if your going to do the work yourself if your paying someone to work on it thats when it gets expensive what state are you in
@@ExploreFishing haha joys of being such a small channel i don't have to respond to many people 🤣 anytime man good luck with you disco hunting hit me up of you need any more info happy to try help where I can
Hey mate I'm not sure about the coolant pipes however my coolant cross over is made by www.ax4engineered.com/product/vehicle-water-outlet-replacement/ Unsure of the v8 as I've never really researched one
For all the drive train and suspension yes aswell as sunroof and parking brake, engine wise I don't no much about the 3ltr diesel apart from the dreaded snapped crankshaft everyone talks about. Only other common fault I hear of with the 3ltr is the cracked inlet manifold which throws up a check engine light and goes into limp mode Transmission wise if u get the 3ltr its still a zf tranny just the zf8 speed instead of the 6 just make sure it's been serviced if it's done over 100k I'm unsure if they have a plastic or steel sump pan from factory though
@@OUTBACKDiscovery Thanks for the quick reply. Regarding the crankshaft I have emailed Landrover to see if they can give me some stats about which years are affected. Don't hold out much hope but its worth a try. Whats involved in the transmission service, is that just an oil change or a flush, or is it more involved than that?
@@worc1107 on the zf6 u generally upgrade the sump pan to a steel one with separate filter , and then yeah if it's never been serviced I recommend the flush uses about 11ltrs of oil After the flush is done I just do a normal service on mine every 30-40k as I do a fair bit of beach driving and towing a normal service will get about 6 - 7 ltrs out of it but normally there's still a few litres left in torque converter which is where the flush comes into it , but aslong as it is regularly serviced u shouldn't require the flush again Good luck with your response from land rover let me no what the answer is 👍👍
@@OUTBACKDiscovery Landrover head office suggested I buy LR used approved (not sure they would be immune to breaking, and they are about £5k more expensive than the open market), but wouldn't let me speak to anyone technical and passed me on to the local dealer. The local dealer's service department front desk said the mechanics "don't have phones" so I can't ask them about it ! They have referred me to the dealer's sales dept who have not got back to me. I get the feeling they don't want to talk about it ! Not surprisingly. I have heard the fault rate is between 1% and 2% of the 3.0 SD engines so it is not something you would put a bet on happening. But stats don't help too much if it does happen!
Thanks buddy Mine is a base model S which is factory coil sprung so never had air on this car when buying I went for the base model as I wanted the least amount of electronics possible I am envious of the air suspension my dad has a disco 3 on air that I compared to but I do love the simplicity of just having coils specially with my tyre size as it wouldn't be able to drive if the car lowered itself with a fault
Hey mate would you recommend one over a d2a td5 auto? Thinking of upgrading but not sure if it’s an upgrade... Ever come across a manual d3? There’s one in my area potentially for sale. Also coils
Hey Gary I've been following your discussion on the Facebook page , I've never driven a manual D3 but I think that it would be one less thing to worry about as the transmission is definetly an expensive point on these when they go wrong As far as the D2a is concerned I feel like you might regret selling it however it depends on your lifestyle if you like proper 4wding you just can't beat solid axel aswell as parts are alot easier to come across then they are for the D3 However if you love touring I'm yet to come across a more comfortable vehicle that is still plenty capable for just about anything you throw at it I will personally eventually invest in a d2a as I want a weekend 4wd play toy that is still good for touring and then I'll use my d3 as my main touring rig for towing the trailer with
@@OUTBACKDiscovery oh cheers mate just realised you are the bloke who sent the video link. Stumbled upon this! Yea I don’t do as much 4wding as I thought, mostly just towing my camper trailer with some beach driving etc but nothing major and not likely to in the future so really just looking for a comfortable tourer that can tow. And I love landies so yea d3 is similar value to my d2 hence swaps may be on the table. Thanks for your reply!!
@@garymatten as a tourer you can't go wrong I will be doing a vid soon on like vs dislikes of my d3 might be useful for you Also as far as towing is concerned there so planted on the road when towing and have the power you need for hills
Morning I didn't sorry there is a video of a south African dude showing you how to do it if you search doscivery 3 door not locking on RUclips though , sorry
Been looking at getting a disco 3 for a while, seem to be a very comfortable and capable vehicle but not without its intricacies/ difficulties. Would you buy one again? I'm also considering a Pajero or Prado, seem to get more for less with a Disco but with cost of repairs/ servicing, it probably evens out (especially if you need a new transmission). Would you buy one again?
There an amazing vehicle but do have common faults to be addressed I thought I had the upgraded oil pump turns out I didn't and now I'm currently reading my engine Haha if I was to buy one again I would wait for the 4.4v8 petrol it's an amazing engine and cheap to maintain which counter acts the fuel usage If your paying people to work on it though I'd recommend a prado or pajero they are also both good vehicles The pajero is actually very underrated and a good all round SUV 4wd
Good video man. I’m in Australia as well. I’ve got 2 of them. I absolutely love it as well. Air bags seem good on disco 4. Disco 3 had a dodgy compressor. There’s an updated compressor now
Nice man I am envious of the air suspension but also like not having it cant beat mechanical parts out bushb, I hope you take yours out wheeling there amazing capable for what they are
@@OUTBACKDiscovery man I’ve taken it out alright. Stock standard and beat an amarok and ranger both with rear lockers. It just climbs like a mountain goat. Decent travel for independent suspension and traction control works great. I’m a big fan. I loved it so much that I bought a slightly older disco 4 for work. So much better for me being a carpenter/builder. Very stealthy work car.
@@OUTBACKDiscovery well I’ve had every Landcruiser there is from a 40 series to a 200 series. This is just a better designed vehicle. From ergos. To engine. To refinement. I’ve had issues with almost every toyota going through mud. The 200 series is the worst. The alternator is on the bottom. At least the disco is reasonably high. ( again well designed ). Realistically the only other thing maintenance wise as apposed to a toyota is the lower control arms. A trade off for comfort. Respect 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
U want to see a big service history on it with extra work done .Like transmission services .Upgraded oil pump if it's the diesel .Lower control arms or atleast bushes .Driveshaft or centre support Also make sure u have a scan .gauge with you so you can see if any fault codes have been turned off or are present Also stuff like raising and lowering the air suspension I personally recommend setting it into offroad height turning the car off and doing all your checks then when your done see if any sagging is present most of the time there slow leaks but it will show u if anything major is wrong I'd say be looking for when the air compressor was last replaced And testing low range Also flick the park brake on and make sure it doesn't fault or make noise like mine did in the video hahah ( still havnt fixed it hahah I just don't use it )
@@ShockWaveGamings234fg321f hit me up on my insta if you need anymore help atleaat that way u can send through the vehicle and stuff your looking at Good luck with the landy hunting
There an amazing touring / family 4wd if you are OK with either paying atleast 30% more each year in maintenance or are handy on the tools yourself If you arnt so handy onnthe tools I'd recommend a prado or isuzu MU-X (mux is my personal number one as a reliable suv/4wd
Its very time consuming i done it with the main ecu harnesses last in place on the fire wall but it would be ten times easier if you plugged the harness and folded it over You need to remove the plastic crankcase vent cross over before getting the cooler out and thats what removing the harness gives you more access to remove Ps the plastic crank case cross over is very strong when your pulling on it
@@OUTBACKDiscovery Just following up - oil cooler changed over. I had read around various forums that the seperator wasnt easy - however it turned out to be not nearly as bad as I thought. I couldnt find any video guides on youtube either so I decided to film it and I've already posted 3 videos about it so far
Yeah nice one bud I'll check them out 🤙 if your on about the black plastic crankcase vent housing then I'm jealous as mine was insanely tight to remove but easy to get back in 🤣
Havnt done my diff breathers yet will be doing them.before my north trip, have still done a fair bit of water and havnt inhaled any water yet but want to run the rear breather up behind tail light And front up close to battery box I don't disconnect sway bars on IFS vehicles I don't like letting my Cv's dropping to much when I lift wheels specially with the spacers on them now
There are factory diff breather on them. Never could find where thr rear one pops off to but when I put the air Locker in it I ran a new one up to the front. The front breather can get blocked, it pops up near the rad. It has been reported that the end fails to allow air back in. There is a genuine part to fix it, but cheaper just to get a after market one and extended it. A quick temporary fix is to use a small fuel filter on an extension, run to the batter area and leave it facing down.
Crankshaft bearing shells spinning is more common on a D3 vs D4. The weak casting that support the tensioner pulley on the early style oil pumps are by far the biggest risk on 2.7TDV6.
If you get the early model 4 with the 2.7 in it your basically buying the same car just an updated version of the 3 If you get the 3ltr just make sure you do your engine oil every 7k as they seem to have dramas with big end bearings failing but from what I have read this can be avoided by bringing your engine service intervals closer . I think the 4 is also a great car just make sure you do your research and buy one that has a good service history . Someone else might be able to fill you in on some more info for the 4 if they read this comment Good luck with your car hunting 🤙
Is that the exhaust cross over pipe and the back there ? Havnt heard of to many dramas with that yet what normally goes wrong with them , do they crack or just the gasket blowing out ?
@@OUTBACKDiscovery AKA Manifold link pipe / hot side boost pipe to turbo. Could be a Northern Hemisphere thing only - there are plenty failing now. The pipe is very expensive and then there are 2 factors of difficulty. 1. This a body-off job according to LR. 2. This job can be done body-on but only if the nuts undo on the pipe flanges (NH road salt?), and that's after you've taken out the gearbox... Also another NH thing to consider is glow plugs which can require a specialist to remove. It's rare to get them out without most breaking. So look for these having been changed or fuel burning heater pre-heat mod when buying.
@@themekfrommars to easy man cheers for your input , luckily we don't seem to suffer from the corrosion aspect over here everything generally comes off easy , glow plugs are on my list as I seem to have stleast one not working can hear it on a cold start comes good after 30 seconds Also seem to have a noisey lifter until oil pressure build up but pritty common drama in alot of diesels when they age so not to fussed about that I'll look into that pipe though would rather do it pre maturely then have it fail 1200kms away from home haha
@@OUTBACKDiscovery I got all 6 old glow plugs out by using the sykes pikavant low torque vibro impact glowplug remover, and pre-soaking for weeks with atf/acetone mix. Cross over pipe gives you plenty of notice when it is failing. Probably 2k kms before you lose too much power. It starts with a whistle and turns into a banshee. This is my next job after timing belt. JAS/CSK fabrications in UK make a thick stainless re-engineered pipe half the cost of the LR part which is favoured by UK LR community. Or if you do take body off for another job consider getting an exhaust shop with jigs to replace the bellow sections of cross over pipe (It's critical the support brackets for top of bell housing stay in the same place). That's the cheapest way.
@@WoodcockFamilyOverland hahah that's gold after I made the video I was like honestly I could make a part 2 to this video For things like turbo actuator seizing front wheel bearings , sagging head liner haha
It's all oem parts used unless there's an upgrade Stronger shaft bushes , upgraded torque converter and lock up clutch Zip kit installed into a new mechatronics unit and all new solenoids and clutch packs she's brand new
Haha yeah but I did have Toyota's before this and spent almost just as much on them, only thing I don't like about landrovers is how hard it is to get parts when you need them and the price of them , Its always thought in the back of my head when I'm doing my trips
I replaced the compressor not because the old had failed but know it would with a AMK and fitted a mode to lift her all for less then a typical lift kit on most 4dws. Part aren't too expensive if you don't mind getting from the UK. Money pit, yes and no, but most 4wds are. Just try replacing a DPF on a Toyota!
@@cloudpomb3526 950 is a good price for a locker, and yep regardless of which 4wd you have if you use it as one you will always have to sink money into them atleast we get to go wheeling in comfort haha
@@OUTBACKDiscovery funny thing is I have never used it. After a good day of Glass house bashing I remember on the way home that I have a rear locker. But having one means that I can 3wd if I bust a CV in thr rear. The drive line is not really designed to have a locker. And you see that the factory installed ones have different parts for the rear drive line post the diff, as they are made to withstand more load. I would like to fit the heavy duty to mine for some peace of mind in the future. As well as.......
@@cloudpomb3526 yeah would be good to fit uprated parts where possible Only downfall though is that you will have even less chance of anyone having the parts when you try source them if you had any future dramas with them
Thanks a lot ,
Here is the checklist ,
1 - Boost Hose
2 - Timing Belt & Oil Pump $$
3 - Coolant Crossover
4 - EGR
5 - Oil Filter & Oil Cooling Gasket
6 - EGR
7 - If HSE with Sunroof than check under right seat , for any leakage
8 - Handbrake
9 - Door / Trunk Locks
10 - Bushes & Ball Joint
12 - Transmission ! $$$$$$$$
13 - Drive Shaft Bearing
14 - Lift to Offroad Mode , then lock the car . Check tire clearances for air pump after 10 mins. $$
15 - Listen to compressor while diriving , if there is compressor sounds in 10-15 second cycles , there might be problem.
Champion I'm sure.people will appreciate you typing that out mate cheers 🤙
This was the easiest to understand video on Dico 3 I have struck, simple but enough complex comments to give me foresight. Excellent
Awesome feedback mate thankyou for your comment
Good summary!!!
I have had to attend to 99% of those items mentioned in the last five years .
Bought mine when it was 10 years old , now 15 years old.
$$$$$$$$$$$$. Spent least $16k +.
Owes me some good 4x4 reliability!
Have Ctre and rear diff lockers .
Almost unstoppable when working properly!
I no your pain haha bought mine for 17k owes me 43k now rear locker is next on mine list its starting to show signs of wear so will replace with a locker
Do you have the factory lockers or after market
@@OUTBACKDiscovery I have a factory locker.
on my D3 .
Managed to get a second a second hand one for $550 .
Installed by Roving Mechanical in Revesby , Sydney.
They did not have to drop the diff.
Saved me heaps of $$$.
Total cost $1100.
Alarms gone on dash.
But yet to test it 4x4ing .
🙏🤞Hopefully all will go well
i just bought a 2006 labeled LR3 here in the U.S. Love the new rig and the community. I was a wrangler OIIIIO owner for years and nice to find a cool community here with the Land Rover. Took it in straight away after watching this for the transmission to get serviced and they replaced the entire rear drive shaft like you said :) The shop is owned by a couple of guys that worked at the dealership for 15 years and went out on their own. Much less expensive but I will start to do more of the work on my own moving forward.
awesome man there are a great offroader/ day 4wd you might miss your jeep at times when doing hardcore trails but i think on a day to day basis you will love your landrover more. P.S glad to hear my video helped i will be filming everything i do to my landy from small camping mods to magor repairs so hopefully they become helpful for you :) good luck
Also you should check out LR time on RUclips. A German couple who do repairs
Dr Tranny Instant Shudder Fixx sorted my LR3 judder problem. Completely agree, it's all about preventative maintenance. I used to think it was a money pit but it has never left me stranded, I've learnt to do most of the maintenance thanks to yutubes like yours, and these days maintenance looks cheap compared to the cost of buying a new or near new similar spec vehicle. It's a keeper until it dies.
Yep the cost of a new 4wd is insane
Dr tranny is just bandaid fix though will only by you time, I'd start putting money aside for when you start having shudder issues again , hopefully not for a long though 🍻
There worth the hassle 🤣
Well done mate. Big thank you for your effort in offering your experiences and advice. Good sense given about having to be clued in mechanically and staying on top of things.
Too good. Best vid so far for someone in the market to buy.
Going to do a part 2 this break
That oil pump Sn range is not a safe guide to go from mine let go and cost me an engine
Preventative maintenance is exactly right, not cheap (did this with my d3) but never got stuck in the bush anywhere. Wish I never got rid of mine but needed to save for a house. Lol
I love my d3 man I do wish it was solid axel though I may get a d2 as a play toy
As you said though mine has always gotten me home but then when I give her a good once over after a trip will always find something that needs doing haha
I hope your house was worth selling your landy mate haha
big thanks for the information i was wanderings how much its cost to replace air suspensions thanks
Hey Han this was a base model which is factory coil sprung but I think it's around 2k to convert from air to coil
Always make sure oil pump is changed with belt people he not lying mine went and totalled the engine
Sorry to hear about your engine, Karl! :-(
we can only hope and wish we had all of the diesel options in the usa
Idk but it seems like the diesel engine has more problems than the V8. My V8 has had 0 problems, im closing in on 130000 miles too. Everything original. Just changed the front shocks and my instrument cluster went out strangly, but thats it! My OG alternator is still putting out 14v!! Amazing.
The 4.4v8 is the pick of the bunch for sure there very hard to get your hands on in Western Australia though I wanted to get.one for my wife but they sell so fast
Great video mate. I’m looking at D3’s so really good to hear all this. I bet there was plenty of swearing under that bonnet! All the best from the UK. Subscribed!
Thanks mate if your not scared of maintenance it's a good car otherwise it will ruin your pocket 🤣 look for one with a decent maintenance history with extra work being done rather then just the basic servicing and u should be sweet
Thanks for the guide, and the channel is great.
I wonder if the problems you have had with water and oil leaks and hoses are because of the hot dry climate you live in as here in the uk we get most of the same problems but not the water and valley leaks and blown hoses are usually because of dangerous mods causing over-boosting.
But we get other problems like rust on the body sills and in the rear crossmember. Although I own a D3 SE 2005 the parts are a lot cheaper here so maintenance isn’t too bad, just have to find a dry few days to do it!
It’s great to see an Aussie loving a Land Rover these days as everyone raves about Toyota,Nissans and Isuzu but for me they have no soul, maybe I’m biased
I have a question for you (not a criticism) why does a man from a metric country driving a metric car use imperial tools ?
Keep up the good work maybe do a rig walk round showing all your modifications
I hope your channel grows and is successful
Sending high 5’s from the UK 🇦🇺🇬🇧
Thanks for the comment mate appreciate your feedback i cop alot of flack off all the landcruiser / patrol boys over here thats for sure but you can't beat the comfort and ability combination of a landrover
The boost hose blowing could well be due to the heat we are exposed to aswell as the coolant crossover one great thing about being over here is we don't get the rust problems like you guys do over there 😁 I do however struggle to get parts when I need them here
I'm a diesel mechanic by trade and work on earth moving gear which depending on which make i work on can be either metric and or imperial as I upgrade tooling I bring my old stuff home ,alot of the tool I have a home now are from when I was an apprentice
All the Japanese stuff... actually most stuff is metric apart from the American gear drives me crazy haha I do have mostly metric stuff but am familiar now with what size corresponds to each other nowadays eg 11/16 =17mm 3/4 =19mm
Also currently building a storage area where second row seat was and then planning on doing a walk around video on disco stu thanks for the recommendation. Still camera shy so I no my vids arnt as engaging as other channels
The noise from your park brake is it just needs balancing. One side is coming on before the other side. Check UK landrover forums for Bodsys brake bible and it will tell you how to sort your handbrake. Its happened to me several time and this sorts it. takes about 30min Hope this Helps.
Cheers Rick will check it out on break 🍻
@@OUTBACKDiscovery no worries. If you can't find it let me know I could always email a copy or get it to you some way as its a pdf file. 👍
I'm about to buy an SE and preferred air suspension, however do you see any downsides to air susp if its all working as it should? I'm looking to add spacers and rods from lucky8. I'm in Melbourne but ony a year, 20 years in Perth and plan to return very soon! Your videos are the reason i opted for Disco rather than Cruiser, you've done a real solid by helping us all do diy
Hey Chris nah air suspension is definitely the go I've got 3 sets of coils in my shed trying to get the right height haha
Also I would just go either the Johnson lift rods or the llams ride height controller rather then strut spacers, strut spacers are a killer for your cv shafts was chewing through mine every 7-8months when 4wding with the strut spacers in compared to the 2 years previous without them where I had zero issues
Hello There, thanks for the informative video. Just wanted to check in with you about the oil pump change my cars vin starts with a 6A3 ?. I do not know whether is fall in the category of ones which require a oil pump change ?..
Morning dhahd moh the oil pump vin number is an unreliable source as I found out first hand with mine
My oil pump failed after landrover telling me it was not in the failed vin number range the only way to find out is to look for the extra upport bracket on the oil pump if it doesn't have it then it needs replacing
I go into more detail on this video ruclips.net/video/wdtBxiIltF4/видео.html
Good vid, great info. It's my dream to have one but the more I research the more I think I might be mad to buy one
It's definitely a love hate relationship
If you like tinkering on your cars then there fine if you want to buy something and forget about it with the occasional repair and general servicing then it's not the vehicle for you haha
@@OUTBACKDiscovery yes I think I'll keep it as a dream car only. Nissan Pathfinder might be a good consolation. There's a German couple that work in Land Rovero, LRTime is the RUclips channel
@P MacC yept Christian and Vera are a great help to the landrover community Christian has a great knowledge on these landrovers that's for sure
aftermarket oil water temp alarms work bought my d4 190000km the guy had spent 10k on it that included a new nav system, links, torque converter
I go way out off the beaten track 200km from any house
I had the turbo fault, I freed the actuator, by using a long rod with a hook, after the agents said I needed a new one
in 18 months done only 14000km
yes it is a beaut car but shockingly designed engine bay, V6 was a huge backwards step, bloody impossible to work on, I was a heavy engine mechanic to 3000bhp, and I could remove, rebuild a turbo on any Cummins in KW, WHITE PETE in half a day, on my disco I can not even see the turbo
Only just seen your comment mate don't no how I missed it
Totally agree heavy diesel mechanic myself predominantly Hitachi diggers now ex3600,5600, and 8000's which run the cummin qsk 50 and qsk 60 great engine easy to work on
and then I come home and it takes me 2 days to reseal my oil cooler on the landy I will tackle the turbo with the body on one day I'm sure it was come close to.breaking me though hahah
@@OUTBACKDiscovery yep, recently A/C trubble, new comp 3k LR got one from UK 850 inc freight, cos I had a stroke I had to pay British Offroad to fit it, 7hrs, where are you?
Thanks for putting the time into this video.
I’m looking at getting one of these at some point so learning this stuff is good. I’m wanting to get an air suspension car. Cheers from SA.
No dramas mate hopefully it helps 😁 i don't blame you if I was to buy one again I'd go for the air suspension and just put some time and effort into ensuring its maintained correctly
OUTBACK Discovery yes. That seems to be the key. When people knock the discovery I remind them that whenever they buy their Land Patroller they still usually drop several extra grand on lifts, springs n shocks. No they look tough and drive well in really hardcore ooff road stuff but they drive like drunken camels during normal day to day running. They do have the bonuses of being lighter so more carrying up to GVM and I’m told parts are easier to source. Anyway, thanks again.
A very good video with most of the major information and specifics of the D3. Good work! Keep them coming!
Thanks Alex, I appreciate the feedback !
@@OUTBACKDiscovery I've had most of those issues myself, from 109k to 200k km, plus two front suspension airstruts (one failed about 2000 km from home, but it still drove me back), rear upper arms and turbo. My EPB is still original, if you can believe this. I would have also mentioned front wheel bearings as a common issue. I also had some oil leaking from the throttle body, as you have, so I changed all the gaskets there. They are cheap. Cheers!
@@AlexStrugariu yep I've been through 2 sets of front wheel bearings now they reckon if you go the timken brand you won't have dramas again so that's what ill be trying next , ill be making a part 2 to this video as I did forget a few things
@@OUTBACKDiscovery Mine needed a bearing right after purchase, so I went with Timken. Almost 100k km since then. The other front bearing had been replaced by the previous owner, and I'm not sure what brand it is.
honestly, ive owned 3 Discos....loved and hated all 3. I presently own an LR3 which i must say i purchased from a 1 owner with 148K miles. It was well cared for as the car fax report suggested. the purchase price was $7,700 and like my Mechanic and i agree, sure I could have purchased a Jeep for around 7K and would have to invest 4 to 5K in all the goodies to get the Jeep equipped well enough to go the places a Disco can go bone-stock, with some AT or MUD Tires, nothing more. Most recently I followed a buddy of mine in his $30K Rubicon with 12K in mods, through some very tough terrain, including 30 inch deep snow and ice and boulder problems.
Haha yeah man there definetly a love hate relationship and it takes owning one to understand there a passion more then a necessity
And the landrover community is so much nicer then the Toyota, Nissan, Jeep communities in my opinion
Hi, nice review, I have one too and it's been great, 1 think I would do for the air suspension is replace the desiccant in the compressor, easy to do and worth the effort.
Thanks mate , yeah good advice!!
I suppose that cheap bit of maintenance to keep all the moisture out would definetly prolong the suspension thats for sure
Wow, you're in Western Australia! Same here. Been looking into getting one for awhile and shuffling up between a few other 4x4. Just worrying about gearboxes but this helped with sussing it out when I go check one out.
Goodluck with your car shopping im glad it helped you out 🙂
@@OUTBACKDiscovery Whats your views on the Airbag suspensions for them? I seen yours isn't which is what I'm looking for but most of the ones that pop up for sale are.
Air suspension is great just needs to be maintained the compressor likes to play up but then you just but the updated version and your all sweet and reseal kits for the crossover valves are under $100 and a couple of hours labour to reseal
I went for the coil sprung model initially as I was scared of the air suspension now I've researched it more if I could go back id probly buy air , that being said I do love not having to worry about leaks
Good info and very well presented. Thank you.
I will say this I have owned a D4 for 4 years when I bought it the difference in cost between it and a LC 200 was minimal WTF was I thinking goes through my mind quite often. LR just isn't a long term keeper unless your weekends are empty and you need something to do. There are enough strategically placed critical plastic pieces on this car that only last so long it is very clear to me now this car made to last 7 to 10 years there after go with God. I will buy extended factory warranty for 2 years thereafter another warranty for 2 years then adios and I will then buy a LC 200 and have to pay in a fortune because of the massive depreciation of the D4 vs the LC. The gift that keeps on giving
unfortunately every vehicle i go out with now ends up with some sort of problem along the way during a trip, when i done the holand track after an unexpected rainfall both cruisers i was with done alternators. i done a cv boot the patrol done an idler bearing so it spat the serpy belt off. everything new today is built as a throwaway item or one use item. the more i work on my discovery the more i can see its strong points in design and its actually doesnt scare me as much in regards to reliability ... however that is provided that the owner does take care of there vehicle correctly preventative maintenance is definetly key
Great insight.
I'm looking to purchase one that has had the airbag suspension replaced with spring suspension.
Other than that, I wouldn't know what to look for so this is a good guide. TBH I'm not a mechanical guy.
I'd say major things
Oil pump replacement
Lower control arms for the front
Transmission service
And check inside for wet carpet
Good video.
Wow you guys sure get hosed on parts over there. I'm in Canada, and we have a few different options for things like rear driveshafts. 2-500 for a shaft here.
We have a slightly different list of issues over here. We have the Jaguar 4.4, or the Ford 4.0L V6. Both are petrols.
Yeah parts seem alot cheaper over there but then the conversion to aus dollars bumps it up plus shipping haha
The 4.4v8 over here is rare and everyone wants one but the v6 petrol is just as common as the diesel
I would love to go over to Canada for a few years looks amazing
Nice videos, good info. Get your handbrake sorted though, sorted mine, fairly fiddly but very doable.
I've been putting it off , I need to drop my long range tank to get to it and it hurts my feelings everytime I look at it hahaha but will do it soon for sure
Hmm, great video. I’m not mechanically minded and I own a D4 with 120k on the dial. Do you know how many of these D3 vulnerabilities carried over to the D4? I am aware that proactive maintenance is a must rather than reactive and have a rover specialist looking after my services. I figure regular checks is the answer in my situation.
I don't no alot about the d4's to be honest unless they are the 2.7ltr model in which case they are basically the same running gear as a d3
The transmission in the 4's changed to a zf8 speed which is a great but however will suffer the same fate as the d3 if not serviced,
Lower control arms are still a common thing aswell as the sunroof drains blocking and the park brake fault apart from that I'm not 100% sure
The only other major thing is to service the engine regularly specially the 3ltr as they can have crank issues and the recommended way to prevent this is shorter engine oil change intervals instead of the 15k from dealers
Hi man, i'd like to buy a Disco 3 (or maybe 4) for my fishing adventures, it would be great if you could make a checklist of those things to check before buy one. it would be really great... thanks for this video!
Hey mate alright so
1. Make sure transmission has been serviced ( has steel pan not plastic)
Check for transmission shudder when pulling away from and stop should be present at around 2000rpm if its not then tranny should be fine transmission flush will set you back between 800-1200
2. Lower control arms whilst driving over bumps listen for a knocking noise in the front lower control arms if knocking new lower arms with upgraded bushes and ball joint around $450 a side plus labour around 3-4 hours
Or a bush kit at $300 plus 6-8 hours labour
3. Coolant cross over in engine bay if original one will require replacing around 150km plastic replacement $150 or alloy version $720 plus 1-2hr labour to replace
4. Lock the vehicle and check that all 4 doors actually lock if one doesn't then the mechanism is broke theres a mod to do for this will do a video on it one day 3hrs labour
5. Rear tail shaft centre support bearing check for cracking in the rubber and separation from the drive shaft , this will also cause a vibration at low speeds
6. Rear diff whine when driving
New diff required or rebuild $1250-$2000 for diff plus labour
7. Oil pump if timing belt has been done check for updated oil pump proof if it hasn't been changed make sure the engine serial number is not within the number I put up in my video
8. Operate the park brake and make sure it doesn't alarm or isn't noisey
If noisey the EPB gears are normally sheered $25 in parts and a solid 8-10 hr job to replace
8. Fan belt tensioner listen for a noisey pulley and if possible check for excessive movement in tensioner
9. If it has sunroofs check for wet carpets by front drivers and passenger seat if wet generally the sunroof drain tube are blocked and can cause major electrical issues long term
10. Raise car into offroad mode turn car off wait for 5 minutes and see if it lowers in any corner if it does then you have a leak somewhere
11. Listen when driving for the compressor cycling all the time if it does it can also symbolise a air leak somewhere, also if it takes a long time to raise vehicle then compressor could also be on its ways out
There a great forby man if your going to do the work yourself if your paying someone to work on it thats when it gets expensive what state are you in
I've just started up my instagram page OUTBACKdiscovery so if you need to talk in depth hit me up on instagram and I can try give you some more info 🤙
@@OUTBACKDiscovery oh wow! i didn't except this so quick! Thanks a lot! i really appreciate!
@@ExploreFishing haha joys of being such a small channel i don't have to respond to many people 🤣 anytime man good luck with you disco hunting hit me up of you need any more info happy to try help where I can
Who makes aluminum coolant pipes? Do they make any for the 5.0 V8 (LR4)?
Hey mate I'm not sure about the coolant pipes however my coolant cross over is made by
www.ax4engineered.com/product/vehicle-water-outlet-replacement/
Unsure of the v8 as I've never really researched one
Excellent video mate, cheers for the tips
Great vid! Am thinking of getting a Disco 4, should I be checking these same things or do they have their own set of common problems ?
For all the drive train and suspension yes aswell as sunroof and parking brake, engine wise I don't no much about the 3ltr diesel apart from the dreaded snapped crankshaft everyone talks about. Only other common fault I hear of with the 3ltr is the cracked inlet manifold which throws up a check engine light and goes into limp mode
Transmission wise if u get the 3ltr its still a zf tranny just the zf8 speed instead of the 6 just make sure it's been serviced if it's done over 100k I'm unsure if they have a plastic or steel sump pan from factory though
@@OUTBACKDiscovery Thanks for the quick reply. Regarding the crankshaft I have emailed Landrover to see if they can give me some stats about which years are affected. Don't hold out much hope but its worth a try. Whats involved in the transmission service, is that just an oil change or a flush, or is it more involved than that?
@@worc1107 on the zf6 u generally upgrade the sump pan to a steel one with separate filter , and then yeah if it's never been serviced I recommend the flush uses about 11ltrs of oil
After the flush is done I just do a normal service on mine every 30-40k as I do a fair bit of beach driving and towing a normal service will get about 6 - 7 ltrs out of it but normally there's still a few litres left in torque converter which is where the flush comes into it , but aslong as it is regularly serviced u shouldn't require the flush again
Good luck with your response from land rover let me no what the answer is 👍👍
@@OUTBACKDiscovery Landrover head office suggested I buy LR used approved (not sure they would be immune to breaking, and they are about £5k more expensive than the open market), but wouldn't let me speak to anyone technical and passed me on to the local dealer. The local dealer's service department front desk said the mechanics "don't have phones" so I can't ask them about it ! They have referred me to the dealer's sales dept who have not got back to me. I get the feeling they don't want to talk about it ! Not surprisingly. I have heard the fault rate is between 1% and 2% of the 3.0 SD engines so it is not something you would put a bet on happening. But stats don't help too much if it does happen!
@@worc1107 haha good sales pitch on there behalf , good luck with your purchase I hope you find a good one!!
Great video.. looks like you did the Coil conversion from air.. what do you think of the ride and do you miss the Air?
Thanks buddy
Mine is a base model S which is factory coil sprung so never had air on this car when buying I went for the base model as I wanted the least amount of electronics possible
I am envious of the air suspension my dad has a disco 3 on air that I compared to but I do love the simplicity of just having coils specially with my tyre size as it wouldn't be able to drive if the car lowered itself with a fault
HI mate, thanks for this info, much appreciated !
Cheers Jeremy, have you bought one yet or are in the market
Great video! Thank you.
Hey mate would you recommend one over a d2a td5 auto? Thinking of upgrading but not sure if it’s an upgrade...
Ever come across a manual d3? There’s one in my area potentially for sale. Also coils
Hey Gary I've been following your discussion on the Facebook page , I've never driven a manual D3 but I think that it would be one less thing to worry about as the transmission is definetly an expensive point on these when they go wrong
As far as the D2a is concerned I feel like you might regret selling it however it depends on your lifestyle if you like proper 4wding you just can't beat solid axel aswell as parts are alot easier to come across then they are for the D3
However if you love touring I'm yet to come across a more comfortable vehicle that is still plenty capable for just about anything you throw at it
I will personally eventually invest in a d2a as I want a weekend 4wd play toy that is still good for touring and then I'll use my d3 as my main touring rig for towing the trailer with
@@OUTBACKDiscovery oh cheers mate just realised you are the bloke who sent the video link. Stumbled upon this!
Yea I don’t do as much 4wding as I thought, mostly just towing my camper trailer with some beach driving etc but nothing major and not likely to in the future so really just looking for a comfortable tourer that can tow. And I love landies so yea d3 is similar value to my d2 hence swaps may be on the table.
Thanks for your reply!!
@@garymatten as a tourer you can't go wrong I will be doing a vid soon on like vs dislikes of my d3 might be useful for you
Also as far as towing is concerned there so planted on the road when towing and have the power you need for hills
@@OUTBACKDiscovery thanks man, keen to see that video!
Did You make the video on the door MOD? Mine failed
Morning I didn't sorry there is a video of a south African dude showing you how to do it if you search doscivery 3 door not locking on RUclips though , sorry
I drive a 2013 Ford Ranger...I know the feeling 😂
Haha atleast someone else feels our pain
Been looking at getting a disco 3 for a while, seem to be a very comfortable and capable vehicle but not without its intricacies/ difficulties. Would you buy one again? I'm also considering a Pajero or Prado, seem to get more for less with a Disco but with cost of repairs/ servicing, it probably evens out (especially if you need a new transmission). Would you buy one again?
There an amazing vehicle but do have common faults to be addressed
I thought I had the upgraded oil pump turns out I didn't and now I'm currently reading my engine
Haha if I was to buy one again I would wait for the 4.4v8 petrol it's an amazing engine and cheap to maintain which counter acts the fuel usage
If your paying people to work on it though I'd recommend a prado or pajero they are also both good vehicles
The pajero is actually very underrated and a good all round SUV 4wd
JF... have D4 and looking for a spare wheel holder as you have! Where did. you get it?
Hey mate its an outback accessories one around $1100 australian
Good video man. I’m in Australia as well. I’ve got 2 of them. I absolutely love it as well. Air bags seem good on disco 4. Disco 3 had a dodgy compressor. There’s an updated compressor now
Nice man I am envious of the air suspension but also like not having it cant beat mechanical parts out bushb, I hope you take yours out wheeling there amazing capable for what they are
@@OUTBACKDiscovery man I’ve taken it out alright. Stock standard and beat an amarok and ranger both with rear lockers. It just climbs like a mountain goat. Decent travel for independent suspension and traction control works great. I’m a big fan. I loved it so much that I bought a slightly older disco 4 for work. So much better for me being a carpenter/builder. Very stealthy work car.
And with the seats folded down so much room the only thing that I've had dramas with is mud messed with my alternator apart from that its great
@@OUTBACKDiscovery well I’ve had every Landcruiser there is from a 40 series to a 200 series. This is just a better designed vehicle. From ergos. To engine. To refinement. I’ve had issues with almost every toyota going through mud. The 200 series is the worst. The alternator is on the bottom. At least the disco is reasonably high. ( again well designed ). Realistically the only other thing maintenance wise as apposed to a toyota is the lower control arms. A trade off for comfort. Respect 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I enjoyed the video very handy tips there even though my dad owns a Disco 4 still a great car.
Thanks mate, I do love the d4's
Thanks! I'm just about to buy one! SOO looking forward to it!
There a great forby mate enjoy
I'm looking at a 2008 discovery 3 with 300000kms anything big I should look for
U want to see a big service history on it with extra work done
.Like transmission services
.Upgraded oil pump if it's the diesel
.Lower control arms or atleast bushes
.Driveshaft or centre support
Also make sure u have a scan
.gauge with you so you can see if any fault codes have been turned off or are present
Also stuff like raising and lowering the air suspension I personally recommend setting it into offroad height turning the car off and doing all your checks then when your done see if any sagging is present most of the time there slow leaks but it will show u if anything major is wrong
I'd say be looking for when the air compressor was last replaced
And testing low range
Also flick the park brake on and make sure it doesn't fault or make noise like mine did in the video hahah
( still havnt fixed it hahah I just don't use it )
@@OUTBACKDiscovery thx mate will do
@@ShockWaveGamings234fg321f hit me up on my insta if you need anymore help atleaat that way u can send through the vehicle and stuff your looking at
Good luck with the landy hunting
@@OUTBACKDiscovery update: it caught fire🤣🤣 alternator burnt up. But it's been fixed under insurance, just a faulty fuse to blame
@@ShockWaveGamings234fg321f hahahhah jesus 😅 that's not ideal hahaha
I just dont know weather to get one or not
There an amazing touring / family 4wd if you are OK with either paying atleast 30% more each year in maintenance or are handy on the tools yourself
If you arnt so handy onnthe tools I'd recommend a prado or isuzu MU-X (mux is my personal number one as a reliable suv/4wd
I gotta do my oil cooler next week - got any tips for that job?
Its very time consuming i done it with the main ecu harnesses last in place on the fire wall but it would be ten times easier if you plugged the harness and folded it over
You need to remove the plastic crankcase vent cross over before getting the cooler out and thats what removing the harness gives you more access to remove
Ps the plastic crank case cross over is very strong when your pulling on it
@@OUTBACKDiscovery Just following up - oil cooler changed over. I had read around various forums that the seperator wasnt easy - however it turned out to be not nearly as bad as I thought. I couldnt find any video guides on youtube either so I decided to film it and I've already posted 3 videos about it so far
Yeah nice one bud I'll check them out 🤙 if your on about the black plastic crankcase vent housing then I'm jealous as mine was insanely tight to remove but easy to get back in 🤣
Do you have diff breathers on yours? Do you disconnect the sway bar when your off road?
Havnt done my diff breathers yet will be doing them.before my north trip, have still done a fair bit of water and havnt inhaled any water yet but want to run the rear breather up behind tail light
And front up close to battery box
I don't disconnect sway bars on IFS vehicles I don't like letting my Cv's dropping to much when I lift wheels specially with the spacers on them now
@@OUTBACKDiscovery Can you do a video on that maybe?
@@briang4510 yeah man for sure
There are factory diff breather on them. Never could find where thr rear one pops off to but when I put the air Locker in it I ran a new one up to the front. The front breather can get blocked, it pops up near the rad. It has been reported that the end fails to allow air back in. There is a genuine part to fix it, but cheaper just to get a after market one and extended it. A quick temporary fix is to use a small fuel filter on an extension, run to the batter area and leave it facing down.
@@cloudpomb3526 handy info man cheers how much did the air locker set you back ill be putting on in the rear soon
Are we not going to talk about the snaping crankshafts?
More of a 3ltr problem then a 2.7ltr problem unless people neglect servicing
Crankshaft bearing shells spinning is more common on a D3 vs D4.
The weak casting that support the tensioner pulley on the early style oil pumps are by far the biggest risk on 2.7TDV6.
Thank you for the tips.
No problem mate, plenty more vids to come 🙂
Thinking hard about a disco 4". Whats your thoughts on those?
If you get the early model 4 with the 2.7 in it your basically buying the same car just an updated version of the 3
If you get the 3ltr just make sure you do your engine oil every 7k as they seem to have dramas with big end bearings failing but from what I have read this can be avoided by bringing your engine service intervals closer .
I think the 4 is also a great car just make sure you do your research and buy one that has a good service history . Someone else might be able to fill you in on some more info for the 4 if they read this comment
Good luck with your car hunting 🤙
You left out the cross over pipe!
Which cross over pipe is that bud, ill look into it
Is that the exhaust cross over pipe and the back there ? Havnt heard of to many dramas with that yet what normally goes wrong with them , do they crack or just the gasket blowing out ?
@@OUTBACKDiscovery AKA Manifold link pipe / hot side boost pipe to turbo. Could be a Northern Hemisphere thing only - there are plenty failing now. The pipe is very expensive and then there are 2 factors of difficulty. 1. This a body-off job according to LR. 2. This job can be done body-on but only if the nuts undo on the pipe flanges (NH road salt?), and that's after you've taken out the gearbox... Also another NH thing to consider is glow plugs which can require a specialist to remove. It's rare to get them out without most breaking. So look for these having been changed or fuel burning heater pre-heat mod when buying.
@@themekfrommars to easy man cheers for your input , luckily we don't seem to suffer from the corrosion aspect over here everything generally comes off easy , glow plugs are on my list as I seem to have stleast one not working can hear it on a cold start comes good after 30 seconds
Also seem to have a noisey lifter until oil pressure build up but pritty common drama in alot of diesels when they age so not to fussed about that
I'll look into that pipe though would rather do it pre maturely then have it fail 1200kms away from home haha
@@OUTBACKDiscovery I got all 6 old glow plugs out by using the sykes pikavant low torque vibro impact glowplug remover, and pre-soaking for weeks with atf/acetone mix. Cross over pipe gives you plenty of notice when it is failing. Probably 2k kms before you lose too much power. It starts with a whistle and turns into a banshee. This is my next job after timing belt. JAS/CSK fabrications in UK make a thick stainless re-engineered pipe half the cost of the LR part which is favoured by UK LR community. Or if you do take body off for another job consider getting an exhaust shop with jigs to replace the bellow sections of cross over pipe (It's critical the support brackets for top of bell housing stay in the same place). That's the cheapest way.
they are called pegs, he hee
great advice
What tyres (and size) are you running?
Hwy mate 265/70/18
And bfg ko2's
Thanks man. Though so.
Knew I should have got these! They go so well on the vehicle!
@@scottparker7398 I love how chunky they look for an at
Maxxis have brought out a real chunky looking at now aswell
If you cannot repair a vehicle yourself......Stay away from the LR3 !
May aswell stay away from anything European if you live in Australia and have to pay someone to work on it they charge through the roof
I’ve had at least 3 of these problems on mine 😂
4... I’ve not got to the end of the video yet 😂
Got to the end and I’ve had 6 of these problems but I still love the car! Great video detailing common problems with Disco 3 👍🏻
@@WoodcockFamilyOverland hahah that's gold after I made the video I was like honestly I could make a part 2 to this video
For things like turbo actuator seizing front wheel bearings , sagging head liner haha
7K for transmission!
It's all oem parts used unless there's an upgrade
Stronger shaft bushes , upgraded torque converter and lock up clutch
Zip kit installed into a new mechatronics unit and all new solenoids and clutch packs she's brand new
It's a 800hp / 700nm rebuilt kit I think general rebuild including remove and replace is around 4500-6k
Looks like they’ve packed a whole lot more shite under the bonnet from a Disco 2 :)
They sure have , and then stuck it under annoying plastic covers haha !
He barely keyed that car...
money pit
Haha yeah but I did have Toyota's before this and spent almost just as much on them, only thing I don't like about landrovers is how hard it is to get parts when you need them and the price of them , Its always thought in the back of my head when I'm doing my trips
I replaced the compressor not because the old had failed but know it would with a AMK and fitted a mode to lift her all for less then a typical lift kit on most 4dws. Part aren't too expensive if you don't mind getting from the UK.
Money pit, yes and no, but most 4wds are. Just try replacing a DPF on a Toyota!
@@cloudpomb3526 950 is a good price for a locker, and yep regardless of which 4wd you have if you use it as one you will always have to sink money into them atleast we get to go wheeling in comfort haha
@@OUTBACKDiscovery funny thing is I have never used it. After a good day of Glass house bashing I remember on the way home that I have a rear locker. But having one means that I can 3wd if I bust a CV in thr rear. The drive line is not really designed to have a locker. And you see that the factory installed ones have different parts for the rear drive line post the diff, as they are made to withstand more load. I would like to fit the heavy duty to mine for some peace of mind in the future. As well as.......
@@cloudpomb3526 yeah would be good to fit uprated parts where possible
Only downfall though is that you will have even less chance of anyone having the parts when you try source them if you had any future dramas with them