Congrats on the new purchase and welcome here! I’ve been making all kinds of videos if you’d like to work on some of the easy stuff. Get the chain and guides looked at by a mechanic. Look at the rubbers on the front subframe. Good luck!
Thanks for tips in your video. This will be my next project. Winter is coming to Boise, and that gives me 6 months of garage time. How are your A-pillar and door seals. That is on my radar for this winter too.
I like your approach to carrying out this type of work by yourself. However there is one thing I would like to clarify: the height of the car, respectively from the rear, depends on the condition of the springs and the silent blocks placed at their top and not on the shock absorbers. If you think your car is not at the right height, this is where you need to take action. Thanks for the video.
That's great to know. I'll have to check that out. Thanks for the comment. Do you have to remove the springs to get to the silent blocks? How difficult are they to replace?
Yes, you have to remove the springs. It's not difficult ias long as you have the special spring compressor for this task. This is made of two disks that are inserted between the coils of the spring and that are connected with a threaded rod. You will find a demonstration in video on the channel of Mike Mercs (@MikesMercsandothercars in 2020 I believe). Without this tool it is potentially dangerous.@@sophiathe380sl
@@sophiathe380sl Hey friend this Guy , i talked to you last time about my 380 sl front frame problem , i got a used one from texas , i need to know if your mechanic can help me put it on please my guy has some family problem out of town . i'm in inland empire (Upland)
Maybe you could’ve removed the bottom bolts off first to release the weight/pressure then remove the top bolts off next and not run into the issue you had. Or remove the top while the vehicle is still on the floor.
@ the bottom or the top before you lift the car? I am saying you can lift the car then take wheels off. Remove bottom bolts then take the top bolts off. Would that work?
@@A1-AwesomeClips I think as long as you do either top or bottom before you lift the car, you should be okay. You want to relieve that tension. I’d do what I did with the driver’s side. Remove the top and bottom before lifting the car. That way, the strut is totally loose.
Just picked up a 85 500SL that’s been in storage for 10 years. Gotta learn all I can about these.
Congrats on the new purchase and welcome here! I’ve been making all kinds of videos if you’d like to work on some of the easy stuff. Get the chain and guides looked at by a mechanic. Look at the rubbers on the front subframe. Good luck!
Thanks a lot! Also my next project. 380SL, 1985. Greetings from the Netherlands, Europe.
👍👍 Amsterdam is one of my top favorite cities.
Thanks for tips in your video. This will be my next project.
Winter is coming to Boise, and that gives me 6 months of garage time.
How are your A-pillar and door seals. That is on my radar for this winter too.
That’s great. It was an easy one… Thanks for the suggestion. I’ll take a look but I think they’ve been replaced.
I like your approach to carrying out this type of work by yourself. However there is one thing I would like to clarify: the height of the car, respectively from the rear, depends on the condition of the springs and the silent blocks placed at their top and not on the shock absorbers. If you think your car is not at the right height, this is where you need to take action. Thanks for the video.
That's great to know. I'll have to check that out. Thanks for the comment. Do you have to remove the springs to get to the silent blocks? How difficult are they to replace?
Yes, you have to remove the springs. It's not difficult ias long as you have the special spring compressor for this task. This is made of two disks that are inserted between the coils of the spring and that are connected with a threaded rod. You will find a demonstration in video on the channel of Mike Mercs (@MikesMercsandothercars in 2020 I believe). Without this tool it is potentially dangerous.@@sophiathe380sl
@@sophiathe380sl Hey friend this Guy , i talked to you last time about my 380 sl front frame problem , i got a used one from texas , i need to know if your mechanic can help me put it on please my guy has some family problem out of town . i'm in inland empire (Upland)
FYI they do make a shock tool,much easier than a vice grips..Pneumatic also works well
I bought the tool from Kent. It worked well for the front because of the limited area. The vice-grips worked great for the rear.
@@sophiathe380sl Lisle 20400 is one I have used and I have seen a few others .
@@sophiathe380sl my car is still at the shop,picked up a new distributor and crank sensor wire...That should do it ..Pray ! lol
Hello thank you for the great video. Can you please share the brand and part number of the shocks
Thank you for watching. Bilstein 1263261600
@@sophiathe380sl thank you sir
Maybe you could’ve removed the bottom bolts off first to release the weight/pressure then remove the top bolts off next and not run into the issue you had. Or remove the top while the vehicle is still on the floor.
@@A1-AwesomeClips Yup. You have to remove the bottom before you lift the car.
@ the bottom or the top before you lift the car? I am saying you can lift the car then take wheels off. Remove bottom bolts then take the top bolts off. Would that work?
@@A1-AwesomeClips I think as long as you do either top or bottom before you lift the car, you should be okay. You want to relieve that tension.
I’d do what I did with the driver’s side. Remove the top and bottom before lifting the car. That way, the strut is totally loose.