Видео

@@iamgiob Hey man. Thanks for watching. Here is a link to my purchasing guide video. Good luck. Hope it goes well. ruclips.net/video/xsu3kxsBzzk/видео.htmlsi=Dz3w9dOA-udpmdGk

@ thank you!

@@yassinekhaled9880 Thanks for watching! I can’t find the part number but it’s the fuel injector retaining clip. You may want to call a dealer to see if they still have them. If not, try ebay or a junk yard.

@@user-nf5xs6qw9x Thanks for watching. I’m glad you find them helpful! I wish Victor was here to help answer this question. I don’t recall this step. When he’s not traveling the world, he sometimes responds to questions on here.

@@user-nf5xs6qw9x I just went back and watched both videos. I don’t recall removing the mineral oil from the compressor. 2 years later, I still have cold air.

Hey. Trying to remember my dying issue. Was it the video where it would have a hard time starting then shaking/whining for bit before going normal?

@@DanielRodriguez-kc4xc mbworld.org/forums/sl-slc-class-r107/442531-help-battery-dead-need-help-open-trunk.html

I thought they have simple Philips head screws on each side for easy removal

You're welcome. It was a Bosch product. Here is the replacement video: ruclips.net/video/xGIE77WMVv0/видео.html

@@joewellborn802 Good luck!

@@A1-AwesomeClips Yup. You have to remove the bottom before you lift the car.

@ the bottom or the top before you lift the car? I am saying you can lift the car then take wheels off. Remove bottom bolts then take the top bolts off. Would that work?

@@A1-AwesomeClips I think as long as you do either top or bottom before you lift the car, you should be okay. You want to relieve that tension. I’d do what I did with the driver’s side. Remove the top and bottom before lifting the car. That way, the strut is totally loose.

@@klwthe3rd I’m sure Doris is living a great life on a farm in Cambodia. I haven’t heard from the new owner. 😀

@@MattBourgeois Yup. It works.

@@ronhannigan2053 Ahh thanks for that. I tried to part out some to a buddy with a 560SL. Didn’t fit.

@@carol-joesfeir2746 sorry, no. The main hose off the strainer can be found at the dealer or multiple sites. The rest are normal fuel hoses without the outside mesh. That’s what I remember.

@@mericavids I tried to install a seatbelt holder. It was crap and broke right off. 😂

@@sophiathe380sl duly noted

@@mericavids Then what? Forever? 😂

@sophiathe380sl then unplug the wire or, in your case, remove the bulb forever and 1 day. I did install a new catalytic converter when I installed the stainless exhaust... now, don't get too excited. They were both universal. I needed a new cat as the O2 sensor married the bung. No muffler or resonator needed. You are doing nice work on a beautiful classic.

@@mericavids Thanks man.

@@hansthenorway2696 You can email me and I’ll send you one. Turbo272727@hotmail.com

non-mechanic response: I think you may be right. I'll have to remember that for next time. 🙂

@@robertbailie9382 I think 89k. I’ve been driving about 2k a year.

Unfortunately, can’t do much about it. They’ve been at this for years and are the experts with these cars. We only have so much knowledge and equipment to resolve these issues at home.

Great. Email me. Turbo272727@hotmail.com -Fred

I think a regular wrench. www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-19-mm-12-Point-Metric-Ratcheting-Combination-Wrench-HRW19MM/204761733?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-RM-RMP-GGL-D25H-Multi-NA-HUSKY__APEX_TOOL-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-MK863029001-24430-NBR-3350-NA-VNT-FY24_Q1_Q4_ApexToolGroupLlc_D25H_RM__ES_AON&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-RM-RMP-GGL-D25H-Multi-NA-HUSKY__APEX_TOOL-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-MK863029001-24430-NBR-3350-NA-VNT-FY24_Q1_Q4_ApexToolGroupLlc_D25H_RM__ES_AON-71700000117790000--&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwmOm3BhC8ARIsAOSbapV861jmokatXsqWQO9t7fZolnnTXHqy769n-WY9F58Q6TYVCXJO3jIaAo9NEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

@@mikemares1018 Thanks for watching. Glad they help. Send me an email and I’ll attach a PDF of what I have. It may be helpful. Turbo272727@hotmail.com

@@lilibethdoherty295 maybe you should consider a dry ice treatment. I’m sure it’s super expensive

Good luck! Report back. I love the new look.

@@sophiathe380sl Hey, how are you today? Well I took a look. I have four small brass screws instead of rivets on the underside. I had a good Phillips head screwdriver and I am unable to budge the screws, on any of them. Maybe I need a smaller head on the screwdriver? I need to be careful it doesn't slip and gouge the body. This weekend I will try using something called Godzilla lube...a green alternative lubricant. It worked on an antique desk lock and one of the door locks on the house. It is supposed to dissolve the rust and make removing the screw easier. I think the screws just need loosening at the contact point. I will let you know. My body shop guy says he can remove them, but I will save some coins by removing them myself IF I can do it safely. A new MB tech I connected with in my area may be able to do it as well. I am also deciding if I want to keep the chrome wheels or not. I have the next generation (the flat wheels). I also listened to the Pierre Hedary and Kent from Mercedes Source talking about the dangers of aftermarket wheels and suspension stress. The original wheels are 6.5", some of the aftermarkets are 6" I will keep you posted. Thanks

@@sophiathe380sl Hello, how are you and Sophia today? Well, all of my efforts have failed. As mentioned I don't have rivets, but just the brass screws. I have tried 5 screwdrivers, spaying a little lubricant on them, and this morning I tried a Phillips head bit attached to one of the power screwdrivers. Ughhh, so I guess I will have to make an appointment at the body shop. Surely they will have electric power to unscrew them. I so hope the fender lip is pristine underneath.

@@ronalddean3630 I wonder if you need to use a Dremel to strip the heads off. Cheaper to invest in a Dremel vs going to a body shop. Look it up

@@sophiathe380sl Hey, hope this finds you and Sophia well. Success. I took my SL to the Bodyshop guy I know. His partner came out and took them off in about 10 min; no charge. The secret? A SOLID screwdriver LOL. So, it isn't as pristine underneath as your fenders were underneath, but I think it is just dirt. I did see tiny areas of rust, near the front bumper and forward of the rocker panel, which is why these are so dangerous. It is rainy this week, but on the weekend I plan to do a good cleaning, but the car already looks better without them. There was a huge amount of crud under them. My brand says "Signature Line Fender Trim" Original Fendertrim, whatever that means. Mine don't say where they were made. This is not OEM for Mercedes but I know that the old 600's had it. They cleaned up nicely. The black shields are in perfect condition. I am not sure how to load images, I guess if I go to my channel, there is a place to load them. I will work on that. Other than that, scheduling some services and learning how to use the soft top. TTYL

I'm not sure. This was a while ago. I think I just reused the old ones.

Thanks no problem

@@SergioLara-o6h which part of LA do you live? We have an LA group with members all over. Depending on the area, we can make a recommendation. My guy is Richard at German Motors in Glendale.

@@sophiathe380sl I’m in the Downey area

@@SergioLara-o6h I don’t think we have anyone from your area. Mostly west side, Hollywood, valley, OC

@@sophiathe380sl There is a shop in Burbank called Magnolia motors I’ve seen with various R107’s any info on this shop?

@@SergioLara-o6h I don’t see it on our list. I see Ferdi motors recommended on Hollywood way.

@@frederickready3436 ya, that usually fixes it 90 percent of the time. You’re welcome. Thanks for watching

@@frederickready3436 yes. It was starving for fuel. The mechanic had to change something behind the fuel distributer. I made a video on it: Hard warm start fixed

@@NapaStunts I saw a bunch of colors listed. They should have it.