Keep at it! Nothing ventured, nothing gained! Just enjoy the project! I have learned from woring on product development, that the fails are how you learn, and the success is best earned through them! Look forward to your progress!
I also own an 82 380SL. You have your work cut out for you , however, I like your attitude at going for it with no fear. One suggestion, while you research the 380SL, you find you may want to change the timing chain to a two row setup. The results of a single row timing chain is what you have found there with yours. The engine may have more damage, valves, pistons ect, but who knows till you get in there an find out. Good luck and will be interested as you proceed. -bw
Thanks John. I'm deep into it by now and I'm not sure what I'm looking at it. I need to phone a friend. I think I finally realized that I'm not a mechanic. Haha. I'll keep everyone updated with the progress. Nothing to lose but the experience of taking a car apart and hopefully putting it back together.
Yessssss!!!!! Now this channel is moving to a crazy new level!!!! Time to get an engine hoist from HF and pull that baby off ❤😂🎉 Go FRED you got this!!!!!!
🤣🤣. Yo Martin!! I’m so deep into it by now, I have no idea what I’m doing. I’ve pulled parts and they’re all over the garage. Let’s see how it goes. I wish you lived close by. 😀
Cool project! As for the engine, heads need to come off anyway for a proper inspection. There are probably debris scattered all over the engine so instead of fighting it every step of the way, just yank it out. It is so much easier on the stand. You do know that head bolts need to be removed in the sequence. That last bolt by the firewall shall be one of the first to come out. Not following the sequence may warp the head. Since not all bolts are removed yet, maybe there still is a chance to save that head. Take your time and go 1/8 turn in sequence as per manual. Now since it is 82, can you please post the distributor part number.
@@sophiathe380sl yes, the heads have to come off. If you use a borescope then you have to turn the engine over which may cause more damage if you don’t remove rocker arms and / or camshafts to close all valves as far as they still can close Peter
From what I’ve read this will be expensive to fix if that’s what you want to do. I’ve also read that it’s recommended that if you have an ‘81-‘83 with a single row timing chain that you change it every 25k miles. That’s with the assumption that you aren’t driving it that much (I’ve put less than 30k miles on my Z-3 in 6 years of ownership) and that the cost of conversion to double row is really expensive. I’ve even heard people throwing a Chevy 350 and a Turbo Hydramatic into them (don’t throw bricks)
Need a helping hand? I rebuilt my 380sl engine from the ground up, I would definitely see if the valve guides didn't bend and hit the pistons, I would remove the timing cover and inspect for more damage, sprocket tooths could be chipped, and there's a guide that sits behind the cover itself, kinda of easy, better with two people, let me know I live in Corona ca, I don't mind the traffic, I'm also in the group chat
Thanks Matthew. I’d love that. Let me know whenever you’re available and let’s try to make it happen. I had a few of the guys over earlier today. I’m sure they’d love to watch us take it apart.
Oh boy. Yeah, I just sold my second 380sl. You can scope the engine with a camera but I’m sure it’s toast. I’m in orange county otherwise I’d just lend you my camera. You’d be best to go to a pick and pull and yank an engine and rebuild that one on an engine stand. Oh boy. I look forward to seeing the content.
Wow, you've definitely taken on a new project. I'm no mechanic either, but I've always heard that broken or even jumped timing chains can cause almost catastrophic damage to engines. I honestly wonder if you may be better off just finding a replacement motor.
Ya I’ve heard the same. I think a full mechanic repair or a new engine is just not worth the cash to put into it. I guess we’ll see how it goes. Thanks for watching.
Hello Sophia and Doris owner, I have a 1983 380SL, and I just developed a leak above the water pump behind the water pump housing, if you were to look at the top of the water pump between the two upper bolts on the vertical flange (under and just left of the upper short water pump hose), there is a very small hole in the vertical flange. Coolant immediately leaks out of that very small hole and empties all the coolant. I thought the problem was leak in the upper short water pump hose, watched a youtube video on replacing that. But that isnt the problem. Now I think maybe its the water pump gasket has just worn away. 200K+ miles on the car. I understand the water pump replacement and new water pump gasket is a big job, far beyond my expertise. Will plugiing that little tiny hole with epoxy work or help ? Thxs in advance for your wisdom. Stu
Thanks for watching. I’m not a real mechanic but I’d assume that a fix like that is temporary. If the gasket needs replacing, I’d take it to a mechanic. I believe it’s only 2 hours worth of work. Good luck.
Left head needs to be redone as valves are bent , next remove old timing chain plastic guides and replace , remove right head and clean out the carbon . Time consuming job ( maintenance of inexpensive plastic guides would have prevented this ) The car made noises on start up which were Ignored !
😂 I got two 380SLs too, one show car and one for parts that I’m trying to fix myself. Watch TonyLiveTV, he’s doing an amazing job explaining how to dismantle these engines step by step.
Keep at it! Nothing ventured, nothing gained! Just enjoy the project! I have learned from woring on product development, that the fails are how you learn, and the success is best earned through them! Look forward to your progress!
Congratulations! I have been learning from your videos and I now have a 82 380SL. I’m glad you picked a 82 so I can learn more!
Thanks for watching Mario! Let’s see what we can do here!
I love how you think. I end up doing this too, now I have like 3 SL's W107 and 2 W126 chassis. Collection keeps growing. LOL Fun
I sold it a couple videos later. Way more than I knew how to do. Haha.
I also own an 82 380SL. You have your work cut out for you , however, I like your attitude at going for it with no fear. One suggestion, while you research the 380SL, you find you may want to change the timing chain to a two row setup. The results of a single row timing chain is what you have found there with yours. The engine may have more damage, valves, pistons ect, but who knows till you get in there an find out. Good luck and will be interested as you proceed. -bw
Thanks John. I'm deep into it by now and I'm not sure what I'm looking at it. I need to phone a friend. I think I finally realized that I'm not a mechanic. Haha. I'll keep everyone updated with the progress. Nothing to lose but the experience of taking a car apart and hopefully putting it back together.
Yessssss!!!!! Now this channel is moving to a crazy new level!!!!
Time to get an engine hoist from HF and pull that baby off ❤😂🎉
Go FRED you got this!!!!!!
🤣🤣. Yo Martin!! I’m so deep into it by now, I have no idea what I’m doing. I’ve pulled parts and they’re all over the garage. Let’s see how it goes. I wish you lived close by. 😀
Embrace the addiction 😅
I look forward to you future videos!!
Cool project! As for the engine, heads need to come off anyway for a proper inspection. There are probably debris scattered all over the engine so instead of fighting it every step of the way, just yank it out. It is so much easier on the stand. You do know that head bolts need to be removed in the sequence. That last bolt by the firewall shall be one of the first to come out. Not following the sequence may warp the head. Since not all bolts are removed yet, maybe there still is a chance to save that head. Take your time and go 1/8 turn in sequence as per manual.
Now since it is 82, can you please post the distributor part number.
Thanks for all that info. I appreciate it.
The distributer cap? What am I looking for? You can email me if you have pictures. Turbo272727@hotmail.com.
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
When this happens with the chain then usually one or more valves will get hit by pistons - that’s where the real damage is - Peter
Thanks Peter. That’s what I’ve heard. How would I know the extent of the damage? Keep taking it apart?
@@sophiathe380sl yes, the heads have to come off. If you use a borescope then you have to turn the engine over which may cause more damage if you don’t remove rocker arms and / or camshafts to close all valves as far as they still can close
Peter
Oh man, hope you got it for free, or close to. Have fun! Looking forward to see if you can do this on a budget.
Haha. It was close to. Worst case scenario, I have a lot of parts.. I’m going to need your help on this. 😂
From what I’ve read this will be expensive to fix if that’s what you want to do. I’ve also read that it’s recommended that if you have an ‘81-‘83 with a single row timing chain that you change it every 25k miles. That’s with the assumption that you aren’t driving it that much (I’ve put less than 30k miles on my Z-3 in 6 years of ownership) and that the cost of conversion to double row is really expensive.
I’ve even heard people throwing a Chevy 350 and a Turbo Hydramatic into them (don’t throw bricks)
Thanks for commenting. I’ve heard it’s a 6k fix which is probably why the last guy parked it. I’m wondering if I can do it myself. We’ll see.
Need a helping hand? I rebuilt my 380sl engine from the ground up, I would definitely see if the valve guides didn't bend and hit the pistons, I would remove the timing cover and inspect for more damage, sprocket tooths could be chipped, and there's a guide that sits behind the cover itself, kinda of easy, better with two people, let me know I live in Corona ca, I don't mind the traffic, I'm also in the group chat
Thanks Matthew. I’d love that. Let me know whenever you’re available and let’s try to make it happen. I had a few of the guys over earlier today. I’m sure they’d love to watch us take it apart.
Oh boy. Yeah, I just sold my second 380sl. You can scope the engine with a camera but I’m sure it’s toast. I’m in orange county otherwise I’d just lend you my camera. You’d be best to go to a pick and pull and yank an engine and rebuild that one on an engine stand. Oh boy. I look forward to seeing the content.
Thanks man. Let’s see how it ends up.
Or do an ev conversion 🤔
@@juddjonathan I can pull it from my wife’s Tesla. She’s already mad at me for buying this junker. It can’t get much worse.
Wow, you've definitely taken on a new project. I'm no mechanic either, but I've always heard that broken or even jumped timing chains can cause almost catastrophic damage to engines.
I honestly wonder if you may be better off just finding a replacement motor.
Ya I’ve heard the same. I think a full mechanic repair or a new engine is just not worth the cash to put into it. I guess we’ll see how it goes. Thanks for watching.
Oh Fred...what have you done!!!
I know!! I told you that I wanted to be just like you.
Hello Sophia and Doris owner, I have a 1983 380SL, and I just developed a leak above the water pump behind the water pump housing, if you were to look at the top of the water pump between the two upper bolts on the vertical flange (under and just left of the upper short water pump hose), there is a very small hole in the vertical flange. Coolant immediately leaks out of that very small hole and empties all the coolant. I thought the problem was leak in the upper short water pump hose, watched a youtube video on replacing that. But that isnt the problem. Now I think maybe its the water pump gasket has just worn away. 200K+ miles on the car. I understand the water pump replacement and new water pump gasket is a big job, far beyond my expertise. Will plugiing that little tiny hole with epoxy work or help ? Thxs in advance for your wisdom. Stu
Thanks for watching. I’m not a real mechanic but I’d assume that a fix like that is temporary. If the gasket needs replacing, I’d take it to a mechanic. I believe it’s only 2 hours worth of work. Good luck.
Thx for the feedback, I gather that you are also a SoCl/LA resident from your posts ? @@sophiathe380sl
Left head needs to be redone as valves are bent , next remove old timing chain plastic guides and replace , remove right head and clean out the carbon . Time consuming job ( maintenance of inexpensive plastic guides would have prevented this ) The car made noises on start up which were Ignored !
You got that right… Way more than I know how to do. If you watch a more recent video, I sold the car as is. 😀
😂 I got two 380SLs too, one show car and one for parts that I’m trying to fix myself. Watch TonyLiveTV, he’s doing an amazing job explaining how to dismantle these engines step by step.
Yea, he’s great. His videos are for a 560 but very helpful.
Both engines look very similar.
@@jean-lucrombouts207 ok cool. I’ll go back and watch them. Problem is that each episode is like 45 minutes. Haha.
There’s only 65 of them, so far..