Great episode. That's really interesting on goodyear welting. I have a handful of Grant Stones, mostly Diesel boots, and the fit really does vary from one leather to another. I never understood why, but your explanation of the process and calibration leather to leather makes a lot of sense. They make a very good product, don't get me wrong, but sounds like it's the nature of the beat. And also, really good insight into McKay/Blake.
To me, the reason that GYW is so widely praised is the fact that it is usually the first quality shoemaking process that people come into contact with. So many people just buy on price due to their budget that when the magical day that they have extra money comes they wonder why these shoes/boots are such a higher price. And these GYW footwear are available compared to other styles which usually need to be ordered for several months (or longer).
Marketing term nothing real about. Hand welt just means hand lasted and hand welted. Part of the issues is people see Japanese IG and Tiki Tok of people making hand welted sandals and boots and call them GYW while they are actually hand welted with a flatwelt.
Boot brothers! Question on hiker style boots, what leather to choose horween naturall dublin or chromepack ? (Deciding on viberg hiker , for winters). Extended question, What leather is actually better for winter veg, chrome, waxy, oily finish?
@@jseskauskno not really. The issue is the oil tan is really what protects you from water not the chrome tan. The chrome tan is just better than veg tan cause veg tan gets discolored and wants to absorb water more than chrome. Since chromepak is not oil tanned and not really meant for boots it's not a great choice. Due to price I would use Badalassi or Seidel over Horween for hiking boots but I don't think you had that choice in leather.
@@jseskausk my ad is restinginthewood and it's Gmail. Pics and short description of each pic. Brand, model, leather type & color, and anything interesting you want to share. People usually share them oldest to newest to see progression in taste.
Great episode!
Great episode. That's really interesting on goodyear welting. I have a handful of Grant Stones, mostly Diesel boots, and the fit really does vary from one leather to another. I never understood why, but your explanation of the process and calibration leather to leather makes a lot of sense. They make a very good product, don't get me wrong, but sounds like it's the nature of the beat.
And also, really good insight into McKay/Blake.
To me, the reason that GYW is so widely praised is the fact that it is usually the first quality shoemaking process that people come into contact with. So many people just buy on price due to their budget that when the magical day that they have extra money comes they wonder why these shoes/boots are such a higher price. And these GYW footwear are available compared to other styles which usually need to be ordered for several months (or longer).
Truman dropped their prices $100/pair when they moved to GYW from Stitchdown.👍
Another solid episode!
I think of GYW as "the bar" instead of gold standard.
What's handwelt deluxe?
Marketing term nothing real about. Hand welt just means hand lasted and hand welted. Part of the issues is people see Japanese IG and Tiki Tok of people making hand welted sandals and boots and call them GYW while they are actually hand welted with a flatwelt.
@ thanks Mike. I thought it might have been a group or subreddit the way you said handwelt deluxe.
Oh yeah there is a discord with a name kinda like that
Boot brothers! Question on hiker style boots, what leather to choose horween naturall dublin or chromepack ? (Deciding on viberg hiker , for winters). Extended question, What leather is actually better for winter veg, chrome, waxy, oily finish?
Chromepak is a bag leather not a good boot leather. I like Dublin personally quite a bit but it's not for everyone.
In the case of wet conditions I would donate chrome oil tanned leather or a rubber over boot.
@@Mike-BiB but i assume chromepack is full chrome tanned should be weather resistant?
@@jseskauskno not really. The issue is the oil tan is really what protects you from water not the chrome tan. The chrome tan is just better than veg tan cause veg tan gets discolored and wants to absorb water more than chrome. Since chromepak is not oil tanned and not really meant for boots it's not a great choice. Due to price I would use Badalassi or Seidel over Horween for hiking boots but I don't think you had that choice in leather.
@ correct, the. I would assume seen oiled cullata is the best chiice for viberg hiker?
Personally I don't like cork of any type in the sole. Prefer a forgiving leather all the way to the rubber sole.
👍.
How do you suggest your boot collection with photos, is there a process and need for information or how it come to fruition?
@@jseskausk my ad is restinginthewood and it's Gmail.
Pics and short description of each pic. Brand, model, leather type & color, and anything interesting you want to share. People usually share them oldest to newest to see progression in taste.
@@jseskausk or PM me if you know who I am on FB