Personally just starting out.. I was doing fairly well. I just replaced the Bowden tube and the nozzle, and twice now I have got prints that the nozzle either hit (and shifted the print) or something happened and it went from a perfect print. To looking like someone dumped a birds nest on top of my print. 9 hrs and 13 hrs in of like 15 hr prints. Im going to look through your playlist to see if you have anything like this in your trouble shooting guide
heyho i just got into printing TPU and got some issues with overhangs. I'm printing the SainSmart TPU 1,75mm diameter and i'm currently printing between 0,15 and 0,1 layer height to get those overhangs printed clearer. but at some spots the overhanging lines bend up?! i don't really understand the physics behind it i mean........shouldn't it hang down instead? xD maybe you got some tricks else than making the layer heights smaller. am i printing to hot? to cold? what could i do against that bending up?
None of those apply to mine as all belts are tight, pulley on all axis are tight, and it is printing at a very slow speed. I wonder if there was a power cut for a second or maybe driver overheating. You did not mention any of that in your video unless i missed it.
i have a troxy P802E and im having issues with Most of the screws staying where they are supposed to be specifgically the ones used for leveling the bed im thinking abought getting some locktight
@@techdiyer5290 yikes a tronxy. I had one of those. Jeeze I dreaded that I returned it. It was pretty hard to return back to China. Tronxy is just a bad company.
I just had my first layer shift last night after getting my first 3d printer for Christmas. Thanks for these tips. I've been using the 'basic' tab in Cura, but when I looked at the advanced tab, I found that although I was using very slow printing speeds, my travel speed was set to 80mm/sec, which was probably the source of the shift. Thanks!
Check your Z fade height in Marlin ABL if you notice prints failing at the same height as your fade high is set to. For the people looking for more advanced fixes.
I had this problem on my Creator Pro for the first time. After investigating, it turned out the belt skipped because of the rapid direction changes caused by small rectilinear infill movements. I ran the print again to see what happened and about 10 layers in, the machine was shaking like a jackhammer! Now I know I guess. Thanks for the video!
Great video! Thank you for all the informative video. Always very thorough and concise. My issue is the print head/nozzle running into the previously done parts especially in multiple part prints. This is one of those situations where you want to be super careful when accepting to revert to default setting when making changes in the slicer software. It may eliminate selected options like jump over or retract when transiting.
from my experience the problem is commontly a mechanical failure of the stepper motor ball bearings (2 inside one front one back) and their low quality + overtensioning belts (wear and tear). I repaired everything by simply replacing the balls bearings (5mmX16mm with 5 mm shank) plus reduced the tension for the future , so that is just tight enough. Plus you can change the stupid belt that gets damaged over time, even if it is an "expensive" one. So 2 bearings per motor = 1 euro + belt = 3 euros. For 2 motors = 6 euro +the z axis (just bearings) = 7 euros in total. Have fun
ive been getting more and more frustrated with my layer skipping as of late.... one print was GREAT .. then it went right to S$%^(& and after a while of trying to fix it,i gave up. so much so that i backed out of buying a second printer like the one i have ... based on my results of this one.. watched this video.. took about 20 mins of tinkering and so far the print is well beyond the point of its usual skip-marks... so im excited again lol... I said all that to say this....... THANK YOU ..
@@Jail-Left-Wing-Traitors And silly especially on such a puppy. I know he wanted to stand out a bit, but he could have come in clown costume as well. It's all fine unless you want people to take seriously what you are talking about.
I think you forgot to mention one other reason for layer shift that's happened to me and many others filament rolls binding especially when rolls have been stored and reused .
very cool that i found this video...(i was searching lop sided 3d print causes )just bought this printer and was printung a larger bed adjustment knob and print shifted once half way through...this is exactly what you are talking about... i thought it was that my gantry was not perfetly level before i leveled my bed on my cr10s clone...will go through all that you explained.. thanks
hi man, in my case the entire hotend assemble touch both walls in x axis at some moment of the print and then when it comes back to build the piece it starts the following layer shifted
So I’m printing a engine block. About 1/3 of the way it layers shifted so I let that one finish and the rest of it printed fine. Thought maybe it was tangled filament so started the print again and shifted in the exact same spot. I did scale it up to 120% in Cura I wonder if that affected anything?
I’ve had this with an Ender 3 neo max This was on the vessel i work on, so it wasn’t my printer. But i did a print and got a layer shift, i don’t remember if it was x or y I noticed the hot end was wiggling, so i tried tightening the eccentric nut, but no matter how much i turned it it didn’t get tight. So I took a closer look at the hot end you have the back plate where everything is connected to, wheels, nozzle, fans etc. And i found that where the bottom wheel is connected to this plate it was bended towards the nozzle. I dismantled the hot end, and bended the plate straight again, then reassembled, and this time i could tighten the eccentric nut. This fixed the wiggle and haven’t had a layer shift since. Hope this helps someone out there
I have an anycubic Chiron and for some reason its shifting, like all the layers begin to steadily go at an angle, at first I thought it did this to everything past an inch, but when I did a resonance test it made it perfectly fine. When I tried the default circular leveling test it shifted the whole thing! So I thought, maybe its just things with a large radius? Nope, I tried the overhang test and it did that too!
Hell yes thank you bro had later shift problems and was about to go bananas and I didn’t think the belt tightening was gonna fix it every print would be fine and then like a quarter of the way thru it shifts then continues to print normally just with a phat shift turns out I just had to tighten my belt at least as of right now it seems to be fixed it’s past the point where it would usually shift I’ll Lyk after my print is done how it went but your video was a huge help like I’m talking the hulk’s balls type of huge like thanks man
Putting that giant fan next to the printer can be a really bad idea. Before I had proper layer cooling fans, I tried that, and since it also cools heated bed & hotend a lot, it can easily trigger thermal runaways (protection, you should definitely have enabled) Also, one of the most important potential fixes was missing; Adjusting motor driver current. There are dedicated videos for that, but would have been worth mentioning anyway.
Honestly that was done for comedic effect. Truly you'd want to design a lid for your electronics case that houses a fan and directs the air only onto the board and not the rest of your print. Driver currents are a topic for another video. That has an entire other set of variables, and I felt this one was getting verbose enough. It's definitely another video I want to do. - Alec
Another thing I saw on another print channel was also check your ed clips are fine? If they been used for a few months with lots of printing happening those bed clips can loosen the amount of force they have on the bed cover, So it can slide a tiny amount on the X axis or the on the Y axis so te bed cover ( glass mostly ) will move on that axis by a very tiny amount and you get a layer shift even if all the belts etc. are right. So get new strong replacement bed clips. I only ave 2 on my Aquila bed glass ( front and back ) So I will get new ones and this time I get 4 not so my glass bed is held on all sides. I've seen bed clips on Amazon that have a screw part to tighten them better without them hitting the underside. So I may try those?
INFO provided had factors (like the nema pulleys), I had not considered. One factor you did not mention is the dreaded BED LEVEL factor :) A factor that can also cause nozzle to catch and then shift the layers. One other factor that can contribute, if the stepper voltage is too low the weak motor will struggle to keep up, yeah that can also do it :(
I made a hypercube 3d printer Its Corexy and Im using tmc2130 for x and y steppers But I have layer shift for both x and y axis .mostly x axis shifts Driver current is 1.2A
I'm getting a strange layer shift on some on my prints. On some prints, the top 10 or so layers shift on the y axis like 1-2 mm. It is only some models, most are fine.
Hi Alec thank you for the comprehensible video and good advice. I have been experiencing Layer shifts on my Ender-3 V2. The interesting thing is that they only appear on specific layers heights. Those are always the same throughout different prints and nomatter where on the plater the model is palced, the layer shifts are always there and on the same heights. I am relatively new to 3d printing so might still be making some rookie mistakes. Tried to tighten the two belts like a guitar string as you suggested. With my amateur comprehension, my guess is that something about the Z-Axis is wrong, maybe some contaminants at specific places of the vertical frame where the nozzle drives up and down. Tried to clean the frame with a bristle brush but the layer height stayed exactly the same. What would you guys do to proceed? Cheers
my 3D printer's display is also messed up (until I go into the menu) daoes this tell me anything about what might be wrong? I know it's not anything you said in this video. It's also not just a one-time-per-print thing, it is a constant slope that it's making.
total dummy ?: i just got a brand new Anycubic Kobra 2 Neo. Tried 2 print a test 'benchy' model. and the printer was shifting *every* layer. i did the leveling/calibration. what might b the problem?
Hey all, I've got an IDEX printer that's running into layer shift issues. The weird part is that I cannot pin down a mechanical problem. I run it in duplication mode, and both extruders will shift in the exact same direction the exact same amount despite being independent (but still happens on both axis). I've already got all speeds locked down to 30mm/s and I still occasionally get the error and prints are taking days. I have no idea what I'm doing wrong.
Disregard the criticism. You pull off mutton chops very well. Thanks for the tips. My Ender 5 Plus has been doing this at about the 30% of all prints. I’ve adjusted the Gcode to default, but no dice. Never thought to adjust the pulley screws
I made three prints and two of which had a slightly layer shift but on the same layer. The third one wasn’t high enough to experience the layer shift the others did. Does anyone have a solution?
That sounds more like Z banding then layer shifting. We'll have another video on that, but I can at least say, make sure that your Z axis can freely move up and own without binding on the extrusion, the X-axis extrusion is level, and that the Z nuts are tightened to the carriage. I've seen all of these little hiccups on many different CR-10s, so this might be where your problem is coming from, but I can't say for sure. - Alec
I've done everything. Even a GO X Y on every layer. Doesn't seem to help. I get x or y, never both, never more than 1 but always about a few hours in on an overnight lithophane.
But what if it keeps shifting and doesn’t stop? I just got my ender 3 and it just keeps shifting g to the left...non stop...please help Edit: it’s 12:37am and I just fixed it...i did it by a fun method i like to call tighten the absolute shit out of the belt...thanks for the help lol
i have the Tevo Tornado and i just get layer shifting all the time. The belts are fine i think it's the power source or the motors dont get enough power but im no electrician, what to do?
RuiRaptor has an excellent video (RUclips) on this. You have to adjust the VREF's on the Main board. That's what I need to do now as well with my Tornado
@@techsavvyhero I saw the video and i tried that but i messed something up and now all axes are not working lol i orderd the new gen motherboard and hope that this is going to fix it. :D
P Knoth yikes, Sorry to hear that. I’m going to try and do it with power off first so I can get a feel for where to place the multimeter connectors before I go live
@@techsavvyhero you have to be careful with the screws, my mistake i think was that i was screwing and unscrewing them to often and one of them the (x axe) was in a quite difficult position to work with and i probably damaged something on the screw or the board not sure. But at first when i put all of the axes on 0.95v like in the video the hot end just started to get error halted massage all the time and the fans inside where completly underpowerd and started to work and after sometime they stoped again and started and again. Hope that you have more luck with that, im just a noob i guess haha
Sounds like a software issue, Ensure you have the latest printer firmware and slicer Print a thin tower to see when the layer shift happens, do the stepper motors make grinding or clicking noises? Or do the belts slip? Ensure all wires are not damaged or slightly unplugged and make sure when doing large prints, you're MB/ control board isn't overheating. Hope this helps you out
Hey guys I subscribed because I really need the 3d printer you guys are giving away through the king of random channel, I have a 6 yr old with leukemia and finances have been hard. I can't afford a 3d printer due to medical bills that I'm drownding in, it would help me jumpstart my custom parts bussiness. I'm sorry to sound like a mooch but I'm desperate for help through generous gifts or financial donations. If you find it in your hearts to help a struggling family please respond to this comment and I will give you my information and proof of my sons medical condition if you think I'm bullshiting. Anyway I love your guys channel keep up the amazing work.
Besides layer shifts, what are the major troubleshooting issues you're running into? Your feedback might turn into our next troubleshooting topic!
Personally just starting out.. I was doing fairly well. I just replaced the Bowden tube and the nozzle, and twice now I have got prints that the nozzle either hit (and shifted the print) or something happened and it went from a perfect print. To looking like someone dumped a birds nest on top of my print. 9 hrs and 13 hrs in of like 15 hr prints. Im going to look through your playlist to see if you have anything like this in your trouble shooting guide
heyho i just got into printing TPU and got some issues with overhangs.
I'm printing the SainSmart TPU 1,75mm diameter and i'm currently printing between 0,15 and 0,1 layer height to get those overhangs printed clearer.
but at some spots the overhanging lines bend up?!
i don't really understand the physics behind it i mean........shouldn't it hang down instead? xD
maybe you got some tricks else than making the layer heights smaller.
am i printing to hot? to cold? what could i do against that bending up?
None of those apply to mine as all belts are tight, pulley on all axis are tight, and it is printing at a very slow speed. I wonder if there was a power cut for a second or maybe driver overheating. You did not mention any of that in your video unless i missed it.
i have a troxy P802E and im having issues with Most of the screws staying where they are supposed to be specifgically the ones used for leveling the bed im thinking abought getting some locktight
@@techdiyer5290 yikes a tronxy. I had one of those. Jeeze I dreaded that I returned it. It was pretty hard to return back to China. Tronxy is just a bad company.
Damn, those side burns. 🔥🔥
lamb chops are best chops
I just had my first layer shift last night after getting my first 3d printer for Christmas. Thanks for these tips. I've been using the 'basic' tab in Cura, but when I looked at the advanced tab, I found that although I was using very slow printing speeds, my travel speed was set to 80mm/sec, which was probably the source of the shift. Thanks!
The videos you folks do are some of the most useful on RUclips for 3D printing. keep em coming.
You helped me troubleshoot my 3d printer, it was a loose screw. Thank you.
It’s usually too much Jerk that overloads the stepper motors.
It’s not printing speed but the JERK settings.
Check your Z fade height in Marlin ABL if you notice prints failing at the same height as your fade high is set to. For the people looking for more advanced fixes.
I had this problem on my Creator Pro for the first time. After investigating, it turned out the belt skipped because of the rapid direction changes caused by small rectilinear infill movements. I ran the print again to see what happened and about 10 layers in, the machine was shaking like a jackhammer! Now I know I guess.
Thanks for the video!
Great video! Thank you for all the informative video. Always very thorough and concise. My issue is the print head/nozzle running into the previously done parts especially in multiple part prints. This is one of those situations where you want to be super careful when accepting to revert to default setting when making changes in the slicer software. It may eliminate selected options like jump over or retract when transiting.
from my experience the problem is commontly a mechanical failure of the stepper motor ball bearings (2 inside one front one back) and their low quality + overtensioning belts (wear and tear). I repaired everything by simply replacing the balls bearings (5mmX16mm with 5 mm shank) plus reduced the tension for the future , so that is just tight enough. Plus you can change the stupid belt that gets damaged over time, even if it is an "expensive" one. So 2 bearings per motor = 1 euro + belt = 3 euros. For 2 motors = 6 euro +the z axis (just bearings) = 7 euros in total. Have fun
ive been getting more and more frustrated with my layer skipping as of late.... one print was GREAT .. then it went right to S$%^(& and after a while of trying to fix it,i gave up. so much so that i backed out of buying a second printer like the one i have ... based on my results of this one.. watched this video.. took about 20 mins of tinkering and so far the print is well beyond the point of its usual skip-marks... so im excited again lol...
I said all that to say this.......
THANK YOU ..
them some serious sideburns, you got a license for those puppies?
yeah.. they are fucking gross
@@Jail-Left-Wing-Traitors And silly especially on such a puppy.
I know he wanted to stand out a bit, but he could have come in clown costume as well.
It's all fine unless you want people to take seriously what you are talking about.
Kids these days dont know bout mr Gibbs.
I think you forgot to mention one other reason for layer shift that's happened to me and many others filament rolls binding especially when rolls have been stored and reused .
Bringing back thr mutton chops. I love it. Thanks for the video
very cool that i found this video...(i was searching lop sided 3d print causes )just bought this printer and was printung a larger bed adjustment knob and print shifted once half way through...this is exactly what you are talking about... i thought it was that my gantry was not perfetly level before i leveled my bed on my cr10s clone...will go through all that you explained.. thanks
Update was loose belt.. problem solved.thanks
awesome! My 20 mm cube print was slanting. I tighten my set screw for X, and it fixed my problem! thank you very much! I have a CR-10 Max
Thanks a lot dude!
Best regards
hi man, in my case the entire hotend assemble touch both walls in x axis at some moment of the print and then when it comes back to build the piece it starts the following layer shifted
Thank you,,, indeed my y-axis belt was a little bit loose . I tied it up and the print was perfect...
Let's talk about shaver shifts! 😉 Good video
Just woke up to a print that shifted an inch to the left 18 hours in due to the 3d printed belt tensioner i used snapped clean in two
You can also lower the acceleration and jerk settings.
@Will Swift That depends on your Printer. I print with 35-40 on Acceleration and maximum 8 on jerk on my Cr 10s pro.
What about a consistent shift to one axis to where the final print looking like it’s leaning like the leaning tower of pisa?
subscribed just to see them chops ! AWESOME !
I made the cr10 cat on my cr10 v3 and it was very detailed and smooth other than the layer shift after resuming print.
actually its a grub screw, and thank you for this video
So I’m printing a engine block. About 1/3 of the way it layers shifted so I let that one finish and the rest of it printed fine. Thought maybe it was tangled filament so started the print again and shifted in the exact same spot. I did scale it up to 120% in Cura I wonder if that affected anything?
I’ve had this with an Ender 3 neo max
This was on the vessel i work on, so it wasn’t my printer.
But i did a print and got a layer shift, i don’t remember if it was x or y
I noticed the hot end was wiggling, so i tried tightening the eccentric nut, but no matter how much i turned it it didn’t get tight.
So I took a closer look at the hot end you have the back plate where everything is connected to, wheels, nozzle, fans etc.
And i found that where the bottom wheel is connected to this plate it was bended towards the nozzle.
I dismantled the hot end, and bended the plate straight again, then reassembled, and this time i could tighten the eccentric nut. This fixed the wiggle and haven’t had a layer shift since.
Hope this helps someone out there
it seems z hop is only meant for direct extrudes. i get a lot of problems with bowden - stringing and underextrusion
good video.
Good stuff.
Hi
Thanks a lot. I will try these
awesome side burns
Easy follow guid. I likey
I have an anycubic Chiron and for some reason its shifting, like all the layers begin to steadily go at an angle, at first I thought it did this to everything past an inch, but when I did a resonance test it made it perfectly fine. When I tried the default circular leveling test it shifted the whole thing! So I thought, maybe its just things with a large radius? Nope, I tried the overhang test and it did that too!
Hell yes thank you bro had later shift problems and was about to go bananas and I didn’t think the belt tightening was gonna fix it every print would be fine and then like a quarter of the way thru it shifts then continues to print normally just with a phat shift turns out I just had to tighten my belt at least as of right now it seems to be fixed it’s past the point where it would usually shift I’ll Lyk after my print is done how it went but your video was a huge help like I’m talking the hulk’s balls type of huge like thanks man
THANK YOU!! Tightening my Y-axis driver took my print from spaghetti to perfect alignment.
Putting that giant fan next to the printer can be a really bad idea. Before I had proper layer cooling fans, I tried that, and since it also cools heated bed & hotend a lot, it can easily trigger thermal runaways (protection, you should definitely have enabled)
Also, one of the most important potential fixes was missing; Adjusting motor driver current. There are dedicated videos for that, but would have been worth mentioning anyway.
Honestly that was done for comedic effect. Truly you'd want to design a lid for your electronics case that houses a fan and directs the air only onto the board and not the rest of your print.
Driver currents are a topic for another video. That has an entire other set of variables, and I felt this one was getting verbose enough. It's definitely another video I want to do. - Alec
Another thing I saw on another print channel was also check your ed clips are fine?
If they been used for a few months with lots of printing happening those bed clips can loosen the amount of force they have on the bed cover,
So it can slide a tiny amount on the X axis or the on the Y axis so te bed cover ( glass mostly ) will move on that axis by a very tiny amount and you get a layer shift even if all the belts etc. are right.
So get new strong replacement bed clips. I only ave 2 on my Aquila bed glass ( front and back ) So I will get new ones and this time I get 4 not
so my glass bed is held on all sides. I've seen bed clips on Amazon that have a screw part to tighten them better without them hitting the underside. So I may try those?
I had a faulty stepper motor cause it. replaced it and all good
INFO provided had factors (like the nema pulleys), I had not considered.
One factor you did not mention is the dreaded BED LEVEL factor :) A factor that can also cause nozzle to catch and then shift the layers.
One other factor that can contribute, if the stepper voltage is too low the weak motor will struggle to keep up, yeah that can also do it :(
I did a boat was perfect apart from a dent in the middle and the front looks melted
Thank you! Youre right!
I just had a layer shift related to a loose removable build plate RIGHT at the end of a 2hr print!
I just had it after 23 hours...
@@rudnickulous same... It's like 2 hrs are nothing and I dont want to decrease the speed anymore...
I made a hypercube 3d printer
Its Corexy and Im using tmc2130 for x and y steppers
But I have layer shift for both x and y axis .mostly x axis shifts
Driver current is 1.2A
I'm getting a strange layer shift on some on my prints. On some prints, the top 10 or so layers shift on the y axis like 1-2 mm. It is only some models, most are fine.
I have this issue that on each new layer it slightly shifts towards one side, it's consistent on each layer, any advice?
Thanks dude!
Thank you
Hi Alec thank you for the comprehensible video and good advice.
I have been experiencing Layer shifts on my Ender-3 V2. The interesting thing is that they only appear on specific layers heights. Those are always the same throughout different prints and nomatter where on the plater the model is palced, the layer shifts are always there and on the same heights.
I am relatively new to 3d printing so might still be making some rookie mistakes. Tried to tighten the two belts like a guitar string as you suggested.
With my amateur comprehension, my guess is that something about the Z-Axis is wrong, maybe some contaminants at specific places of the vertical frame where the nozzle drives up and down.
Tried to clean the frame with a bristle brush but the layer height stayed exactly the same.
What would you guys do to proceed?
Cheers
my 3D printer's display is also messed up (until I go into the menu) daoes this tell me anything about what might be wrong? I know it's not anything you said in this video. It's also not just a one-time-per-print thing, it is a constant slope that it's making.
total dummy ?: i just got a brand new Anycubic Kobra 2 Neo. Tried 2 print a test 'benchy' model. and the printer was shifting *every* layer. i did the leveling/calibration. what might b the problem?
Hey all, I've got an IDEX printer that's running into layer shift issues. The weird part is that I cannot pin down a mechanical problem. I run it in duplication mode, and both extruders will shift in the exact same direction the exact same amount despite being independent (but still happens on both axis). I've already got all speeds locked down to 30mm/s and I still occasionally get the error and prints are taking days. I have no idea what I'm doing wrong.
Disregard the criticism.
You pull off mutton chops very well.
Thanks for the tips.
My Ender 5 Plus has been doing this at about the 30% of all prints.
I’ve adjusted the Gcode to default, but no dice.
Never thought to adjust the pulley screws
Is it normal to have a 10mm shift?
I try the z hop option on cura ... and the print is really horrible :( I don't understand ...
I have layer shift at particular height with different model
How can it move, "quicker than it's able to"?
how excited i was to see my ender 6 print at 200mm/s and then i seen the layer shifts :(
i had a loose screw on the extruder :\
my layer shifts started when i enabled jerk control is that possible
I made three prints and two of which had a slightly layer shift but on the same layer. The third one wasn’t high enough to experience the layer shift the others did. Does anyone have a solution?
I just noticed that I wasn't already subscribed, how'd that happen......🤔
I'm having ugly layer lines from my CR-10.
That sounds more like Z banding then layer shifting. We'll have another video on that, but I can at least say, make sure that your Z axis can freely move up and own without binding on the extrusion, the X-axis extrusion is level, and that the Z nuts are tightened to the carriage. I've seen all of these little hiccups on many different CR-10s, so this might be where your problem is coming from, but I can't say for sure. - Alec
I've done everything. Even a GO X Y on every layer. Doesn't seem to help. I get x or y, never both, never more than 1 but always about a few hours in on an overnight lithophane.
ojk but how do i Change Z-Lift? in cura or on the printer irself?
what is the solution for random z artifacts / z banding?
But what if it keeps shifting and doesn’t stop? I just got my ender 3 and it just keeps shifting g to the left...non stop...please help
Edit: it’s 12:37am and I just fixed it...i did it by a fun method i like to call tighten the absolute shit out of the belt...thanks for the help lol
BINDER CLIPS! I reviewed film and it collided with a clip same time it shifted. Be careful
Home boi is a fire bender
i have the Tevo Tornado and i just get layer shifting all the time. The belts are fine i think it's the power source or the motors dont get enough power but im no electrician, what to do?
RuiRaptor has an excellent video (RUclips) on this. You have to adjust the VREF's on the Main board. That's what I need to do now as well with my Tornado
@@techsavvyhero I saw the video and i tried that but i messed something up and now all axes are not working lol i orderd the new gen motherboard and hope that this is going to fix it. :D
P Knoth yikes, Sorry to hear that. I’m going to try and do it with power off first so I can get a feel for where to place the multimeter connectors before I go live
@@techsavvyhero you have to be careful with the screws, my mistake i think was that i was screwing and unscrewing them to often and one of them the (x axe) was in a quite difficult position to work with and i probably damaged something on the screw or the board not sure. But at first when i put all of the axes on 0.95v like in the video the hot end just started to get error halted massage all the time and the fans inside where completly underpowerd and started to work and after sometime they stoped again and started and again. Hope that you have more luck with that, im just a noob i guess haha
@@podrozowanieprzezp Where did you ground the multimeter to? did you use an alligator clip or pointer?
actually its called a grub screw
It's a setscrew in engineering fields. It's the correct terminology. Grubscrew is slang because it resembles a grub.
👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
My prints always shift at the same level.
Sounds like a software issue,
Ensure you have the latest printer firmware and slicer
Print a thin tower to see when the layer shift happens, do the stepper motors make grinding or clicking noises? Or do the belts slip?
Ensure all wires are not damaged or slightly unplugged and make sure when doing large prints, you're MB/ control board isn't overheating.
Hope this helps you out
Hey guys I subscribed because I really need the 3d printer you guys are giving away through the king of random channel, I have a 6 yr old with leukemia and finances have been hard. I can't afford a 3d printer due to medical bills that I'm drownding in, it would help me jumpstart my custom parts bussiness. I'm sorry to sound like a mooch but I'm desperate for help through generous gifts or financial donations. If you find it in your hearts to help a struggling family please respond to this comment and I will give you my information and proof of my sons medical condition if you think I'm bullshiting. Anyway I love your guys channel keep up the amazing work.
My guy grew up amish
wolverine
Lol you have 100k subs
lol
you should reallly do something about your beard wolf
sadly yet AGAIN another video that didnt help
shave your beard please