That's a good point about priming, my printer dwells and oozes for a while before starting and it takes quite a few skirt loops to get it extruding again. I'll try adding a priming step before prints.
I just wanted to tell you thank you because I was worried my printer was screwed up. It happened to be the calibration.. I've found the good guy section of RUclips!
Hi! I have another kind of this problem. Before and after printing extruder feeds a filament well. But when the printing is starting extruder motor do not moves. I changed two slicers but it not fixed the problem. Have you any thoughts about it? (SKR 1.3, Marlin 2).
My fillament perfectly comes out when my printer doesn't have to interrupt its flow. But once the nozzle has to move to a coordinate without the need of extrusion, then it takes a small distance for the filament to come out again. This results in really bad corners e.g. when printing grids.
I have a question that is a bit off topic. I've recently printed a multiple part print using tpu filament, everything printed without fail. I have now gone back to pla, and nothing will print properly. It appears to be under extruding. I've cleared the nozzle and ptfe tube as well as changed the extruder drive screw. Nothing seems to work, please help.
Not sure if this will help anyone but I found that the gear on the part that feeds the filament in had actually backed off to the point where it was only touching the top of the filament and wasn't pushing it in properly. I loosened to two little screws and lowered the gear it so it contacted the side of the filament properly and my issue was resolved
pretty sure this is my problem right now and I have no idea how to fix it 😓. no clogs for sure, but the gears or whatever is supposed to feed the filament through is not catching, so nothing comes out unless I push it through. I've tried loosening the screws as another video said overtightening it stops it too. Still not working. Any suggestions? I have a creality cr10 v3
My lame problem is that it doesnt extrude fast enough after traveling. I also tested disable retraction. But same thing happens. It draws a line and moves to make a small circle and nothing comes out. Continues to next and maybe partly releasing.
Nice videos. I have a issue with my stepper motor not turning and making a griding sound whenever I want to remove or insert filement inside the extruder. by any chance do you know what the problem might be?
Hi, thanks for the helpful video. I just finished my first DIY Printer and everything works so far, except my extruder stepper does not turn when getting into print mode. It works however when I press the extrude button in Pronterface and I was able to calibrate it. I'm searching for solutions since days now and still can't get it to work. Since the stepper works for calibration, I assume that I did something wrong in the Marlin set up. Any ideas for a solution would be greatly appriciated. Thank you.
Never mind. Found the problem. My slicers (slic3r and Cura) switched the letter E to A in the G Gode with some objects and not with others. Don't know why and how to fix that, but now it works with some objects where the G Code is naming the extruder E and not A! Example: G1 X141.048 Y132.446 A2.27422 it should be G1 X141.048 Y132.446 E2.27422
Ok so I had an Issue where the printer would stop printing halfway of the model. It kept moving as if it were printing but nothing was coming out. I stopped it, let it cool down, and started another print where it perfectly started printing again (although it messed up but that's a separate thing). Could it be that the Extruder over heated then stopped? If so should pause the print halfway, let everything cool, then continue printing again?
i have no issues like any you talked about... i think my extuder motor is bad,,, it turns only when i depress extruder spring a little...and i have a good tight gear on the shaft and bearing turns nice...machine is brand new... can these stepper motors go bad?? thax ps..its a cr10 clone
What if it's none of these suggestions? I can extrude manually, without problem. My printer has an option to push the filament through the bowden tube to the hotend, or back the filament out, to change rolls. Both directions work fine. I can prime the nozzle, without issues. The printer will extrude a little pile of filament, until I tell it to stop. Then I start the print.... nothing. No filament is extruded. I've done the test print, that came on the SD card, that many have printed with no issues, other than some people experiencing some stringing. Yet mine does nothing. I have done my own models, and sliced them through Cura and through Prusa Slicer... again, no extrusion. The company told me that the extruder was bad, since it won't extrude, even though it extrudes manually. They sent a replacement, and it does the EXACT same thing. I'm so frustrated. It's been a month, and still never printed anything, with two different extruders. I'm really regretting this purchase, and getting into 3D printing. 😔
0:49 The intermittent thing sounds similar to the problem I'm having. Sometimes it'll turn out wavy with some filaments. Lately it seems more like the extruder turns off and on every 2-3 lines on the first layer. I've tried raising the offset but that just makes it so the filament doesn't stick because the nozzle is too far away. Others have suggested that it's a warped bed, but I've checked and my bed is as straight as can be and properly trammed. I've tried printing it in other locations of the bed to see if maybe it's the kinematics of my built from scratch corexy, but I get the same exact same results and pattern no matter where I print on the bed. I've also adjusted the drivers to rule out driver issues. Any advise may help, though what was in the video didn't help in my situation. What I'm thinking of checking out next is maybe taking my heat break and polishing it. I have a clone V6 since I couldn't afford the real deal and its machining lines are pretty intense in there and has had jams in there in the past. Another thing I'm thinking is that my original ramps 1.4 board fried itself a while back and I'm still using the same arduino mega so maybe I'll reflash the firmware just to rule that out or to switch the arduino itself out, though I don't know why it would be intermittent like that. The new Ramps board I'm using is a 1.4b version and I haven't checked or changed the estep settings since the replacement though I doubt that's the problem since the rest of the print turns out fairly well, but it's still something to check. I also seem to remember it having this problem before, but definitely not to the same extent as I am having now.
Unfortunately, extrusion issues are one of those things that can have a million different causes. However if it's regular, have you checked to make sure that your extruder gear in the extruder is clean and not full of gunk, regularly preventing it from extruding? I would also suggest making sure your hotend is assembled correctly (tightening the nozzle against the heatbreak when it's heated up), that the PTFE tube (if it's bowden) is cut flush, that you're printing hot enough, and if the extruder gear is still turning but there's no filament coming out (which would mean the problem isn't electronics or motor related, it's purely related to the hotend). Hope that helps! - Alec
@@MatterHackers Thanks for the reply. The extruder is definitely clean. I've closely inspected it many times and have never had an issue of slippage that I can tell and no signs of grinding or any mess of any kind. I tried replacing the bowden with Capricorn tubing bought from your website to see if that might improve anything and haven't seen any improvement so far. Hot end is assembled with the same method Tom's 3D uses in his nozzle guide video and definitely tightened when nice and hot at 260C. PTFE tube and Capricorn tube are both cut nice and flush and yes it is a bowden (based on the Hypercube by Tech2C only much much larger). I am printing hot enough and even used a temperature tower to figure out the ideal temperature and get the same problem at higher temperatures. I still haven't run the PID tuning system yet, but I don't usually see more than a degree of temperature variance when printing. PID tuning is on my to-do list even despite that. I haven't yet thoroughly investigated whether the extruder gear is turning during the times it is having extrusion issues. It's on my list of things to do, but I have done a little investigating and so far it seems the gear is turning at the time though I have noticed the bearing that presses the filament against the gear not turning sometimes. Part of the reason I just upgraded to a Capricorn tube is to reduce the amount of slop that might allow it to push filament and potentially not extrude while filling that gap (and to improve stringing hopefully. I haven't been able to run any stringing tests yet though since mom has been in the hospital.) I seem to remember a slight improvement when I tried "seasoning" the nozzle with oil once, but that was only temporary and my memory is pretty fuzzy, plus it was high temperature "hair clipper oil" rather than how most people use vegetable oil. Oh, and I've tried multiple different sized nozzles and am currently running with a 0.6mm for the reduced chance to clog and faster printing. I have noticed that sometimes Cura doesn't seem to accept my nozzle size setting ever since a recent update that caused a major crash that lost all of my settings. I haven't yet tried a different slicer, though that is also on my to-do list just as another thing to rule out. I don't think this is a slicer issue though. The more I think about it, the more I think it's something in the heat break causing a partial clog up in there. The inside was poorly machined and there are a few high friction grabby areas in there somewhere. While I was in the hospital taking care of my mom I saw a video where someone ran some steel wool in there to polish to an essentially mirror finish for silky smooth sliding and since I have no way to afford a good hot end at the moment, that may be my best bet. It is curious though as to why it would only be a problem when making some lines but not others and be mostly consistent with it when printing the model in different positions on the bed.
@@MatterHackers I figured it out finally! So long story short: the arm that holds the bearing and presses it against the filament to engage with the extruder gear was warped/bent so it was only engaging with the gear roughly 1/2 of the time. The guy who originally printed out all of my printer parts printed them out with PLA on a really poor quality printer that has almost no dimensional accuracy and extremely low quality so even for the initial assembly I had to take a heat gun to parts just to get screws/bolts/nuts in. So it wasn't in that great of shape in the first place, probably bent when I heated it, and progressively got worse due to the nature of PLA in such an environment being attached to a motor (though my motors don't get hot). How I figured it out was that I was noticing the bearing not spinning fairly often that also coincided with the under extrusion, but the gear was spinning fine. I tried degreasing it with an alcohol swab to see if it was too oily to engage with the filament, then I tried sanding it to give a little more grip. Didn't make a difference so I decided to mess with the arm a bit and voila. The sad thing is... I already had successfully printed replacement parts in PETG months ago, but just haven't taken the time to swap all of the parts yet. I Just trying to figure out the problem first before putting in that effort. So on the bright side I had the part ready to go and easy swapped in, but sadly I could have fixed this issue months ago. That's one way to learn I suppose. :P
I need some help really bad, i've had y creality ender 3 pro since Feb. in that time i made maybe 7 test prints all failing phenomenally despite me calibrating my bed as per instruction and recommendations every time, filament would just not hit the bed or just be dragged off. the filament would not stick t the bed at all after about 5 prints, then i replaced with a glass bed, halfway through my first test print on the glass bed the printer stopped extruding entirely. isent it back to the place i bought it for 7 weeks and they replaced the motor, got it back made 1 test print that didn't stick to the bed and put it away until just this weekend where me and a friend managed to make adjustments and get some pretty stable prints out. but now im having to rely entirely on rafts as i can calibrate my bed and it seemingly immediately loses contact with the bed or just doesn't stick at all. now ive been calibrating infill and its not terrible anymore but i have the absolute worst layers. im printing a hexagon and almost every layer seems to be out from the one before and even the ones that do stick together look spaced and uneven. how do i fix the layering issue on my 3D printer?
Every time I print my PLA (carbon fiber). It prints to a certain level and it stops feeding and nothing coming out the nozzle. I check my nozzle and my engine is all fine, I think is the filament issue, but how come it prints every time to 13 or 14 mm it stops working.(all my setting works fine with my other filaments, it just that doesn't work )Help !
I have a Longer LK4 and i have a problem with inconsistency in printing filament. So i go through my steps like this: step 1, i level my table, step 2, i preheat telling it the filament im working with. Step 3, i go to extrusion and kick out 10mm of filament. Step 4, i then go to my sim card and scroll to my print and tell the machine to print it. It will then begin printing, and nothing will come out, but it goes through its orders and keeps going. Remember i just extruded filament in the warm up, so theres no clogs. Why is this occuring, also this occurs more than occasionally, but not every single time, just like 50% of the time. Anybody have any ideas? Thanks.
hi there i have a GEEETECH A30 3D printer and I've been having a problem where it does and then dose Not Extrude, I'm sure that the nozzle isn't clogged as i have changed it to make sure of that, the bed is level isnt the problem ethere if anything its a little high and I've cleaned the gear many many times but I'm still stuck with the same result (on occasion while printing the filament would stop coming out and then extrude again) could you please try to help me find out how i can get this printer to work. i couldn't find a proper 3D program does that make a deference ?
@@shiniforever I think it's the extruder assembly. Not sure if it's a partial clog or what but it's cheap to replace the whole thing so I'll try that and let you know.
What should I check in Simplify3D that send a command to my CR-X to retract the filament before printing. I actually see the filament extruder taking out about 25mm of filament before starting.
I just bought a 3d printer and thought their was something wrong with my printer. Turns out that i didn't program the G-code to feed the filament. Anyone know how to do that?
download cura and slice the file when youve sliced the file it should say download to file click that and choose the file you whant to put it in underneath it it should say what code you whant it to be in then change to G-code then save
@@motsgar I don't know. But if you come to the 3d printing world and use cad programms and slicers, you will see thst Z is always up in 'our' world. probably because x&y define a plane, an z the 'thickness', so the 3rd dimension. your plane (x&y) is your buildplate so Z is then up&down/thickness
@@tonpa8888 And to expand on that, in machining (which has been around even longer than the others, we're talking the 50), Computer Numeric Control started as Numeric Control, with the same sort of Gcode running the cutter except it was a script one guy read to two other guys and they moved mill around along each axis, X and Y, and then plunged the mill into the piece. Essentially, the first NC machine was 2.5 milling, with an X and a Y like a graph, and Z merely being a cut straight down. It wouldn't have made much sense for them to call it X and Z when at the time there was barely the thought of third axis machining. I still can't explain why there's the difference between animation and manufacturing, but there's at least a brief history lesson into where it kind of came from - Alec
In this case it's a left handed frame coordinate, there's also a right handed frame coordinate. X,Y, and Z are designated this way to uniformly describe a object location to that left handed frame coordinate, in this case that's your extruder. Left and right handed frame coordinates are not only the key to robotics and 3D printing but they're also one of the principles used by NASA along with a gimbal to navigate space shuttles.
That's a good point about priming, my printer dwells and oozes for a while before starting and it takes quite a few skirt loops to get it extruding again. I'll try adding a priming step before prints.
I just wanted to tell you thank you because I was worried my printer was screwed up. It happened to be the calibration.. I've found the good guy section of RUclips!
Mine prints well in first few layers then in the mid layers it just stops extruding:/
hello
my stepper motor moving properly during manual moving
but during printing extruder motor dont feeding filaments
why????
Is the spring tension against the gear suppose to be tight? I keep getting crunching when it feeds.
Hi! I have another kind of this problem. Before and after printing extruder feeds a filament well. But when the printing is starting extruder motor do not moves. I changed two slicers but it not fixed the problem. Have you any thoughts about it? (SKR 1.3, Marlin 2).
My fillament perfectly comes out when my printer doesn't have to interrupt its flow. But once the nozzle has to move to a coordinate without the need of extrusion, then it takes a small distance for the filament to come out again. This results in really bad corners e.g. when printing grids.
I have a question that is a bit off topic. I've recently printed a multiple part print using tpu filament, everything printed without fail. I have now gone back to pla, and nothing will print properly. It appears to be under extruding. I've cleared the nozzle and ptfe tube as well as changed the extruder drive screw. Nothing seems to work, please help.
Thanks for the video!
Those pork chops are no joke 🤣
what if I cant push filament through even with a brand new clean nozzle and a new properly heating hot end?
Not sure if this will help anyone but I found that the gear on the part that feeds the filament in had actually backed off to the point where it was only touching the top of the filament and wasn't pushing it in properly. I loosened to two little screws and lowered the gear it so it contacted the side of the filament properly and my issue was resolved
Mine is fine but still acting up.
pretty sure this is my problem right now and I have no idea how to fix it 😓. no clogs for sure, but the gears or whatever is supposed to feed the filament through is not catching, so nothing comes out unless I push it through. I've tried loosening the screws as another video said overtightening it stops it too. Still not working. Any suggestions? I have a creality cr10 v3
My lame problem is that it doesnt extrude fast enough after traveling. I also tested disable retraction. But same thing happens. It draws a line and moves to make a small circle and nothing comes out. Continues to next and maybe partly releasing.
I love these guides. hoping to get a 3d printer someday
Glad that you enjoy them! Do you have your eye on a specific printer? - Alec
MatterHackers I wouldn't mind a lulzbot
Nice videos. I have a issue with my stepper motor not turning and making a griding sound whenever I want to remove or insert filement inside the extruder. by any chance do you know what the problem might be?
Did u find the solution?
Came here to say thanks!
And nice chops bro!
Hi, thanks for the helpful video. I just finished my first DIY Printer and everything works so far, except my extruder stepper does not turn when getting into print mode. It works however when I press the extrude button in Pronterface and I was able to calibrate it. I'm searching for solutions since days now and still can't get it to work. Since the stepper works for calibration, I assume that I did something wrong in the Marlin set up. Any ideas for a solution would be greatly appriciated. Thank you.
Never mind. Found the problem. My slicers (slic3r and Cura) switched the letter E to A in the G Gode with some objects and not with others. Don't know why and how to fix that, but now it works with some objects where the G Code is naming the extruder E and not A! Example: G1 X141.048 Y132.446 A2.27422 it should be G1 X141.048 Y132.446 E2.27422
Its not clogged, extruder is working fine, there is nothing coming out when printing only when I manually turn the extruder with the the nob.
the little set screw on the gear of my printer came loose.
Ok so I had an Issue where the printer would stop printing halfway of the model. It kept moving as if it were printing but nothing was coming out. I stopped it, let it cool down, and started another print where it perfectly started printing again (although it messed up but that's a separate thing). Could it be that the Extruder over heated then stopped? If so should pause the print halfway, let everything cool, then continue printing again?
Exact same thing🙏
Thanks for the help!
Mine will feed just fine when I move the extruder in the settings but won't even print the prime line
what if all else fails? possibly mybe marlin?
I’m new to printing and ready to Chuck my ender 3 v2 in the trash! What printer is shown in this video? Looks cool
i have no issues like any you talked about... i think my extuder motor is bad,,, it turns only when i depress extruder spring a little...and i have a good tight gear on the shaft and bearing turns nice...machine is brand new... can these stepper motors go bad?? thax ps..its a cr10 clone
What if it's none of these suggestions?
I can extrude manually, without problem. My printer has an option to push the filament through the bowden tube to the hotend, or back the filament out, to change rolls. Both directions work fine. I can prime the nozzle, without issues. The printer will extrude a little pile of filament, until I tell it to stop. Then I start the print.... nothing. No filament is extruded. I've done the test print, that came on the SD card, that many have printed with no issues, other than some people experiencing some stringing. Yet mine does nothing. I have done my own models, and sliced them through Cura and through Prusa Slicer... again, no extrusion. The company told me that the extruder was bad, since it won't extrude, even though it extrudes manually. They sent a replacement, and it does the EXACT same thing. I'm so frustrated. It's been a month, and still never printed anything, with two different extruders. I'm really regretting this purchase, and getting into 3D printing. 😔
My printer only get so high and then it stops putting out filament and then messes up my
my ender 3 is only printing the right side of my print... I have no clue what to do.
You're awesome! Lifesaver. Thank you!
thank u
😀
0:49 The intermittent thing sounds similar to the problem I'm having. Sometimes it'll turn out wavy with some filaments. Lately it seems more like the extruder turns off and on every 2-3 lines on the first layer. I've tried raising the offset but that just makes it so the filament doesn't stick because the nozzle is too far away. Others have suggested that it's a warped bed, but I've checked and my bed is as straight as can be and properly trammed. I've tried printing it in other locations of the bed to see if maybe it's the kinematics of my built from scratch corexy, but I get the same exact same results and pattern no matter where I print on the bed. I've also adjusted the drivers to rule out driver issues. Any advise may help, though what was in the video didn't help in my situation.
What I'm thinking of checking out next is maybe taking my heat break and polishing it. I have a clone V6 since I couldn't afford the real deal and its machining lines are pretty intense in there and has had jams in there in the past. Another thing I'm thinking is that my original ramps 1.4 board fried itself a while back and I'm still using the same arduino mega so maybe I'll reflash the firmware just to rule that out or to switch the arduino itself out, though I don't know why it would be intermittent like that. The new Ramps board I'm using is a 1.4b version and I haven't checked or changed the estep settings since the replacement though I doubt that's the problem since the rest of the print turns out fairly well, but it's still something to check. I also seem to remember it having this problem before, but definitely not to the same extent as I am having now.
Unfortunately, extrusion issues are one of those things that can have a million different causes. However if it's regular, have you checked to make sure that your extruder gear in the extruder is clean and not full of gunk, regularly preventing it from extruding? I would also suggest making sure your hotend is assembled correctly (tightening the nozzle against the heatbreak when it's heated up), that the PTFE tube (if it's bowden) is cut flush, that you're printing hot enough, and if the extruder gear is still turning but there's no filament coming out (which would mean the problem isn't electronics or motor related, it's purely related to the hotend). Hope that helps! - Alec
@@MatterHackers Thanks for the reply. The extruder is definitely clean. I've closely inspected it many times and have never had an issue of slippage that I can tell and no signs of grinding or any mess of any kind. I tried replacing the bowden with Capricorn tubing bought from your website to see if that might improve anything and haven't seen any improvement so far. Hot end is assembled with the same method Tom's 3D uses in his nozzle guide video and definitely tightened when nice and hot at 260C. PTFE tube and Capricorn tube are both cut nice and flush and yes it is a bowden (based on the Hypercube by Tech2C only much much larger). I am printing hot enough and even used a temperature tower to figure out the ideal temperature and get the same problem at higher temperatures. I still haven't run the PID tuning system yet, but I don't usually see more than a degree of temperature variance when printing. PID tuning is on my to-do list even despite that.
I haven't yet thoroughly investigated whether the extruder gear is turning during the times it is having extrusion issues. It's on my list of things to do, but I have done a little investigating and so far it seems the gear is turning at the time though I have noticed the bearing that presses the filament against the gear not turning sometimes. Part of the reason I just upgraded to a Capricorn tube is to reduce the amount of slop that might allow it to push filament and potentially not extrude while filling that gap (and to improve stringing hopefully. I haven't been able to run any stringing tests yet though since mom has been in the hospital.)
I seem to remember a slight improvement when I tried "seasoning" the nozzle with oil once, but that was only temporary and my memory is pretty fuzzy, plus it was high temperature "hair clipper oil" rather than how most people use vegetable oil. Oh, and I've tried multiple different sized nozzles and am currently running with a 0.6mm for the reduced chance to clog and faster printing. I have noticed that sometimes Cura doesn't seem to accept my nozzle size setting ever since a recent update that caused a major crash that lost all of my settings. I haven't yet tried a different slicer, though that is also on my to-do list just as another thing to rule out. I don't think this is a slicer issue though.
The more I think about it, the more I think it's something in the heat break causing a partial clog up in there. The inside was poorly machined and there are a few high friction grabby areas in there somewhere. While I was in the hospital taking care of my mom I saw a video where someone ran some steel wool in there to polish to an essentially mirror finish for silky smooth sliding and since I have no way to afford a good hot end at the moment, that may be my best bet. It is curious though as to why it would only be a problem when making some lines but not others and be mostly consistent with it when printing the model in different positions on the bed.
@@MatterHackers I figured it out finally!
So long story short: the arm that holds the bearing and presses it against the filament to engage with the extruder gear was warped/bent so it was only engaging with the gear roughly 1/2 of the time.
The guy who originally printed out all of my printer parts printed them out with PLA on a really poor quality printer that has almost no dimensional accuracy and extremely low quality so even for the initial assembly I had to take a heat gun to parts just to get screws/bolts/nuts in. So it wasn't in that great of shape in the first place, probably bent when I heated it, and progressively got worse due to the nature of PLA in such an environment being attached to a motor (though my motors don't get hot).
How I figured it out was that I was noticing the bearing not spinning fairly often that also coincided with the under extrusion, but the gear was spinning fine. I tried degreasing it with an alcohol swab to see if it was too oily to engage with the filament, then I tried sanding it to give a little more grip. Didn't make a difference so I decided to mess with the arm a bit and voila.
The sad thing is... I already had successfully printed replacement parts in PETG months ago, but just haven't taken the time to swap all of the parts yet. I Just trying to figure out the problem first before putting in that effort. So on the bright side I had the part ready to go and easy swapped in, but sadly I could have fixed this issue months ago. That's one way to learn I suppose. :P
I need some help really bad, i've had y creality ender 3 pro since Feb. in that time i made maybe 7 test prints all failing phenomenally despite me calibrating my bed as per instruction and recommendations every time, filament would just not hit the bed or just be dragged off. the filament would not stick t the bed at all after about 5 prints, then i replaced with a glass bed, halfway through my first test print on the glass bed the printer stopped extruding entirely. isent it back to the place i bought it for 7 weeks and they replaced the motor, got it back made 1 test print that didn't stick to the bed and put it away until just this weekend where me and a friend managed to make adjustments and get some pretty stable prints out. but now im having to rely entirely on rafts as i can calibrate my bed and it seemingly immediately loses contact with the bed or just doesn't stick at all.
now ive been calibrating infill and its not terrible anymore but i have the absolute worst layers. im printing a hexagon and almost every layer seems to be out from the one before and even the ones that do stick together look spaced and uneven.
how do i fix the layering issue on my 3D printer?
If it doesn’t stick use a glue stick. Lather up your glass bed before printing. My ended 3 pro didn’t stick till I started using glue
Every time I print my PLA (carbon fiber). It prints to a certain level and it stops feeding and nothing coming out the nozzle. I check my nozzle and my engine is all fine, I think is the filament issue, but how come it prints every time to 13 or 14 mm it stops working.(all my setting works fine with my other filaments, it just that doesn't work )Help !
what do i do , when the extruder wont stop working , this its really measing my mind
Who does the song in the background?
Wow, I'm the first one! Great learning info!
Can't wait to get a printer one day
Thanks, it would be a lot better if turn the music down a little so we could hear you better. Thanks again for the video.
Thank u man it took me 3 loathsome to get it printing again my filament had a dug out in it and I swap hoe the filament and it worked thank u so much
I have a Longer LK4 and i have a problem with inconsistency in printing filament. So i go through my steps like this: step 1, i level my table, step 2, i preheat telling it the filament im working with. Step 3, i go to extrusion and kick out
10mm of filament. Step 4, i then go to my sim card and scroll to
my print and tell the machine to print it. It will then begin printing, and nothing will come out, but it goes through its orders and keeps going. Remember i just extruded filament in the warm up, so theres no clogs. Why is this occuring, also this occurs more than
occasionally, but not every single time, just like 50% of the time. Anybody have any ideas? Thanks.
problem solved thanks
so to prevent what happens at 2:28 is te tighten the feeder gears?? (bv I have that problem some times with my 3d printer
bc it is clean
hi there i have a GEEETECH A30 3D printer and I've been having a problem where it does and then dose Not Extrude, I'm sure that the nozzle isn't clogged as i have changed it to make sure of that, the bed is level isnt the problem ethere if anything its a little high and I've cleaned the gear many many times but I'm still stuck with the same result (on occasion while printing the filament would stop coming out and then extrude again) could you please try to help me find out how i can get this printer to work.
i couldn't find a proper 3D program does that make a deference ?
Same issue I'm having
@@futuregamer5791 where you able to fix it or get it to work ?
@@shiniforever I think it's the extruder assembly. Not sure if it's a partial clog or what but it's cheap to replace the whole thing so I'll try that and let you know.
Thx kind of helped
What should I check in Simplify3D that send a command to my CR-X to retract the filament before printing. I actually see the filament extruder taking out about 25mm of filament before starting.
I just bought a 3d printer and thought their was something wrong with my printer. Turns out that i didn't program the G-code to feed the filament. Anyone know how to do that?
download cura and slice the file when youve sliced the file it should say download to file click that and choose the file you whant to put it in underneath it it should say what code you whant it to be in then change to G-code then save
No no no no and no. I will look into replacing the wheel and bearing on the extruder next and report back.
Hi
hi
my 3d printer primes for 30 minutes and then does nothing
I’m new to 3D printing but that is a sexy printer
Good info, could have done without the background music.
I literally just took my nozzle out and got it red hot and everything just came pouring out and it was clean lol
how/where did you get it hot?
Who in US can call me and help me get firstly layer to extrude. Not happening and I had checked everything. Frustrated beyond belief
its been 10 months how it going?
3d printing is a very bad experience. Way too hard to troubleshoot. It requires a lot of time to troubleshoot.
This did not help whatsoever
you had a different problem then
Jesus Christ loves you
please shave the side burns bro. they arent a good look on you
Is he hurting your eyes or something? Grow up.
Up and down is NOT Z. IT IS Y
In the 3D Printing world, we have X as left and right, Y as forwards and backwards, Z as up and down!
@@tonpa8888 but why. I do 3d design and animations and play games and y has always been up and down
@@motsgar I don't know. But if you come to the 3d printing world and use cad programms and slicers, you will see thst Z is always up in 'our' world.
probably because x&y define a plane, an z the 'thickness', so the 3rd dimension. your plane (x&y) is your buildplate so Z is then up&down/thickness
@@tonpa8888 And to expand on that, in machining (which has been around even longer than the others, we're talking the 50), Computer Numeric Control started as Numeric Control, with the same sort of Gcode running the cutter except it was a script one guy read to two other guys and they moved mill around along each axis, X and Y, and then plunged the mill into the piece. Essentially, the first NC machine was 2.5 milling, with an X and a Y like a graph, and Z merely being a cut straight down. It wouldn't have made much sense for them to call it X and Z when at the time there was barely the thought of third axis machining. I still can't explain why there's the difference between animation and manufacturing, but there's at least a brief history lesson into where it kind of came from - Alec
In this case it's a left handed frame coordinate, there's also a right handed frame coordinate. X,Y, and Z are designated this way to uniformly describe a object location to that left handed frame coordinate, in this case that's your extruder. Left and right handed frame coordinates are not only the key to robotics and 3D printing but they're also one of the principles used by NASA along with a gimbal to navigate space shuttles.