Right before the 3:00 mark when he starts talking about tangled filament, I looked over to my ender 3 to see my filament tangled during a print I have running.
@@RetroDotTube its boxy and larger but not massive. It fits comfortably on the desk I have but personally if I knew what I knew going into it I probably would have gotten an ender 3
I am so glad You mentioned the tangled filament part! As a filament reseller, I get questions about this every once in a while, where customers claim it is NEVER their fault...
Ott3rman when I was the person that ran the printers at my school we opened a box of makergear filament and didn't even touch it but we could see it was tangled so we took ten minutes to unroll and roll it back up
it's like Angus said, that mistakes happens to all. I'm just saying it is funny when the same person complains at the same time about two rolls of different brands being tangled half way in... and no matter how gently you try to tell him it is not statistically possible to happen he still demands new rolls...
In regards to supports, thanks for your previous videos about this. You gave me the confidence to use supports when I had been avoiding them. Now I have gotten pretty good at spotting failure points and use supports on my first try for many parts. My prints almost always succeed as a result.
Great tips. Heres two more, use a wifi camera so you can monitor the printing while not there, and also, set up a wifi controller in the outlet so you can cut the power to the printer remotely from your phone when its done (or failed).
Were you snooping around in my office? I have exactly what you described. I'm using a Dome z-wave outlet so I can turn the printer on/off from my phone, and octoprint so I can watch it remotely.
Actually, some brands have been known to have issues with tangles, and it's usually down to specific colors, which indicates that there's likely a single machine from a factory that is the culprit. If they spool it wrong and an area spools looser than another, and ends up overlapping another segment, then gets pulled tight again in another area, the spool can definitely cause an overlap that essentially tangles the filament. When you spool something, it has to be done in a specific order, layer by layer, or this will happen. Even spooling machines are susceptible to this, if they are operated incorrectly.
Maker's Muse Wrong, about how to wind filament. I've dealt with spools for 40 years. The fix? Have your friend hold loose end then roll the spool filament on the way it rolls off, like you were holding a bicycle axle & wheel. When you pull the filament off the edge to the side, it puts twists in the filament. Same when you rewind across the edge in the way you did in the video. I've run miles of cable by hand thru skyscrapers thru the street into another building. As long as the spool can rotate to feed the filament, it has no twist.
Maker's Muse hi angus I have a CR 10 and I'm printing a huge lattice cube but I'm in Utah to see my brother for the first time in about 4 months. Love your channel keep up the great work!!
Thanks Angus, always helpful. If you catch a knot in your spool before it jams up, you can simply take the spool off the holder and undo the tangle by putting the whole spool through the knot. I've done this many times. Another reason to monitor your printer. I volunteer at a library where the filament ends are not secured by all operators and it happens regularly.
Don't touch the bed, oils in the fingers can prevent the support raft from sticking. If you have a print that adheres to the bed, this tip will help you out: I keep a small spray bottle with rubbing alcohol and paper towel, spritz and wipe, print!
Good tip. I buy the pharmacy brand Alcohol Prep Swabs that are used for insulin injections or blood sugar testing. Tear open a single use package, remove the 1 inch square swab, rub it over the entire surface and you're good to go. If you do it while the bed is preheated, it will evaporate very quickly.
I do the same but i also dab some gluestick on it, spray with isopropyl before it dries and then wipe the bed clean, spraying more isoproyl as needed. It will create a surfaces that WILL adhere to prints but also detaches when cool. I've found totally clean surface to be actually really, really poor but just wiping the bed once with gluestick+iso will make it way, way better. I do it now regularly, add new thin coat of my special sauce. um.. that sounded dirty for some reason...
You just saved my sanity. I am new to this hobby. I purchased filament from amazon. I was printing PTEG at the lower temperature. After reading the label, it required higher bed and nozzle temps than I was using. Thanks Mate.
You r too good man, i was about to buy a 3d printer for myself however when i saw one need to take care of lots of things, thought to drop the idea. Loved the way you explained everything,,,,,
Thank you Angus. I have just ordered my first 3D printer and based on your comments I went with the Wanhao I3+. Have not seen a 3D printer never mind used one, hopefully things go well :)
If your spool is tangled, one quick way that I have found to work is grab the filament one full turn past the end, and pull it out from under the overlap. Most tangles and overlaps stay on the first rotation around the spool due to the tension. Just my experience. AND GET SOME FILAMENT CLIPS!
Valandar2 - Eh, I'd like to disagree with this sentiment. I got one of those 'crappy printers as my first (Anet A8), and I did it after months of research and learning. But I did it because I wanted a project - something to tinker with as well as print things. I love building things, so the assembly of the kit was fun. I must have done well, because my printer is solid as a rock (printwise)now that I got an inductive sensor for autolevelling. Getting one of the 'crappy' kit types can be the right move, as long as you know what you're getting into and it fits your wants. :)
I didn't mean to imply ALL kit types were crappy. The one I got WAS. It spent 75% of the time I owned it down for repairs, had horrible print quality, and in general was more painful to work with than anything. In my case it was a Geeetech Prusa I3 clone, with warped threaded rods and super-cheap lowest bidder hot ends. And notice the "Overeager Enthusiasm" bit...
Valandar2 - oh I noticed. And I'm not trying to poke at you, just expressing a different take on getting started in this fun hobby. All in good fun!. :)
LOL Yeah thats what I did. I got a Q3d threeup. It looked like it had been steamrolled. Parts were broken and the circuit boards were all skewed and bent. The reset button was junk from the beginning. You never know if it is activated or not. All the parts were cut with a laser and put together like a childs puzzle. Nothing to hold it together though unless you zip tie it. Just moving it around on a table is enough to make it fall apart. But the biggest thing that made that kit a fail was the total lack of any kind of customer support.
4:20 Reminds me of when I bought some cheap solid-core doorbell wire to act as an antenna for a CW receiver someone gave me. I unrolled the spool of wire and spent the next hour wrangling it and doing my best to avoid kinks in the wire (which will easily stress and break). Lesson quickly learned.
YES. YES. A THOUSAND TIMES YES! I feel like if I saw this when I first started, I wouldn't quite understand, but boy howdy do I understand NOW. And sticking the loose filament in those holes. JEEZUS is it infuriating finding out the reason it jammed is because I didn't do that. I NEVER forget to now of course. I think everyone's 3D Printing education journey just has to have these trials and errors so we learn not to by failing. it sucks so bad though, but I'm glad I know what not to do and totally why so I don't again.These days I never print rafts, and I'm getting into using Meshmixer to create column/cone supports instead of my slicer's crappy ones. prints look so good these days
In my opinion the biggest mistake i see is entering in 3d printing without really knowing what you are doing, it seems quite obvious but the first thing you want to do is looking at tutorials or reading some information and manuals, will avoid a lost of mistakes and frustrations :)
I did lots of research before I bought 4 different printers; 3 UP printers and a Prusa, for use in the classroom. All had outstanding reviews and while I have managed to print some awesome files, NONE of them proton consistently well. The biggest disappointment is my 2 month old Prusa. I just can't get it to print as it should.
Yes i agree but what i mean is that i often see new comers in 3d printing that don't really know what they can or can't do. I mean, it's not rare to have someone ask how to put the STL on the printer, or whatever non sense question. When you go into 3d printing the first thing before buying the printer is to document yourself at least about the basics.
Agree 3D printing is changing so fast do your research before you buy or you will get burnt after you buy and find something with a new feature that would make your life easier.
haha, I think I made all 5 within a week. Really good vid :) keep up the good work :) Although, even now I tend not to monitor my print. as much as I should :/ I tend to watch the first few layers, and about 10 min later, but then I tend to leave it to run :/ I do have an octoprint setup thats monitoring the print for failures though
Great video Angus...and I confess to 4 out of 5 of these errors (never made a birds nest). Thanks also for the great e-book, which I have found useful even though I've been 3D printing for three/four years. It's a shame to see a few folks getting high on pointing out errors/typos when they have not offered the community anything like the knowledge and experience you have - I'm sure you don't let them get to you, but want to say again you're doing an ace job here and do please keep doing it.
Maker's Muse temperature hehe labeling at controller end of both heat elements got off. So I pulled on those to see which ends belong to which already mounted hottend on completed x axis. After three days failing to heat I remembered what happened and yepp had mixed up + - of #0 and #1. And those screws can get you screwed if they get loose and you hear it rattle from the z axis colliding with the printed part.
I realize this is a 4 year old video but, in case someone stumbles on it as I did here is #6. And, by the way, I am now at month 7 of printing and I learned a lot. #6. When you build your file in what ever CAD you use and you are joining pieces together make sure to overlay them. Example, two 3D squares of same size. Do NOT just bang them both together so they are just touching. You want to embed one within the other. Depending on the shape I try to embed one object within the other by .3mm. That seems to be enough of a join. I am sure you can do it with .1mm but I like to be sure to play it safe.
Good tips to keep in mind. Haven't experienced roll tangling but I'm sure if I start swapping rolls a lot and get ahead of myself, it will happen. When I bought my kit, I specifically payed the extra $20 for the auto leveling kit to avoid that problem and so far it seems to work well. I find I have to check and usually adjust the height of the nozzle before I start a print to make sure it isn't to far away, or sometimes, to close, so that is something I think I'd add to the tips, check nozzle height with feeler gauge before printing to make sure it is right. Also, I check the nozzle for any plastic goobers that have built up and wipe / break them off too. I've also had pretty good luck, for the most part, with using 3M painters tape on the bed for the first layer to adhere.
You forgot the most important lesson that I learned. Don't leave your cat who likes to play with moving things in your printer room while you are gone. Yeah. I was too mad to take pictures.
I recently printed something that was mostly flat and needed supports, but I forgot to turn it on in the settings. Luckily the Trinus bridged and and the surface layer is visually perfect, while the underside is covered in coiled extrusions. Saved the print that took 5 hours and it is still fully functional.
The tangled filament frustrated me to no end! Uggg. The more you know, the better your experience. Thanks for the videos you make. They're awesome as always.
If you see a tangle on the spool before it jams up, you can simply take the spool off and put it through the knot from it's end. I've done it many times, but like Angus said, you have to monitor your printer.
Angus I have to say my friend I cant get enough of your videos. I've had to learn this awesome hobby by making a lot of my own mistakes. If I had found your channel when I first started printing my experience would have went a lot smoother and would have been a lot less frustrating. My wife is in Florida for a few days so l plan on binge watching lol. Your doing a great thing for us 3d junkies.
I wonder how many people remember helping to wind a skein of yarn into a ball, for someone who is knitting something. Same "DO NOT GET TANGLED" rule, here.
I hooked up my webcam right in front of my 3d printer, so whenever I need to look at it I can even from half way across the world haha, although I can only stop it if I have the print running from my computer
New to 3d printing here, happy to follow your channel, though currently I'm so busy I don't get anywhere near enough time online. Seen a few of your vids and decided it's for me. Great job mate 👍👍👍
I received an Anet a8 for my birthday last week and I have just dived into 3d printing! Your channel is a blessing, Angus, keep it up! If you ever come to Italy I'll be glad to offer you a couple beers!! :D
A little trick to help respool filament without the spiraling twisting end going crazy is to alternate the twist as you loop the filament back on. In other words, twist the filament clockwise (Cw) or anticlockwise (Acw) the filament will tell you which way it wants to go naturally. For this example say it wants to naturally twist CW, the next loop gets an ACW twist, then CW then ACW. Before you know it this becomes second nature. The spool will get reloaded in its manufactured natural state. This also works brilliantly with hoses and ropes and power cables. I can lay a 30meter long power cable as a spool next to a PowerPoint, pick up the socket end and just walk away with it without any concern that it will bird nest on me. A side benefit is your spool of whatever you have will become soft and supple and lay flat without trip hazard vertical loops. But I digress. As a secondary bonus your filament spools coiled in this manner will have less chance of unwinding wildly as well. Ps. Love your channel and you have been a great help with my first foray into 3D printing with my new “Anycubic Upgraded Delta Rostock Linear Plus 3D Printer”. God, I wish they’d give them a simpler name!
Another mistake that certain peope *will* make: "Uh, I bought a 3D printer. My nephew is good with computers so he can install it for me and teach me how it works". Since in a metaphorical sense I've been the "nephew" from that example on more occasions than I care to count, I'll just passively-aggressively add that no, we "nephews" can't teach you, and no, we don't know what's wrong with your phone/TV/radio either. And for fuck's sake don't call us when your car also breaks down...or makes a strange noise... what? You just got an air fryer? That's it, I'm migrating and changing my name. Fuck that shit.
Yeah i've noticed that too. To get any meaningful use out of a 3D Printer, you need to be a 3D Artist and ideally have some Engineering knowledge when things go wrong. Both of which take years of dedication to get good at. To be fair though, I find the marketing to be incredibly misleading. It gives the impression that anyone can buy a pricey 3D Printer and just magically create new things at their home. I've yet to see a 3D Printer that worked flawlessly out of the box.
@@Fuckoff-1 He kinda has a point. Too many people over rely on their IT friends/family to handle any and all of their tech problems. It gets to the point where they expect them to just drop anything in order to help them print a document with no source file, for install more RAM, or delete a virus off an already destroyed computer, etc. If it's someone who knows a thing or two about computers and just needs some help with advanced problems, or trying to build a custom PC from scratch, then that's fine. We're all for that. But when your like someone's dumbass aunt or a friend who couldn't pass high school, asking for help with mundane shit starts to really be freaking annoying.
@@parallax7789 Yeah I know that is true, but you can't spend your life changing how other people do things. AND once you help them they owe you a favour. Let's say you don't know mechanics, someone you helped will be able to help you change your oil! What goes around comes around
@@Fuckoff-1 But what if they don't know how to do anything on their own, even basic shit like cooking, cleaning, or even holding a job? How they hell are they supposed to help you? There are friends family who will expect others to drop everything just for them, but won't lift a finger if they just need a ride. Plus, if the prase "What goes around comes around" is true, please explain who criminals? crooked cops, and corrupt politicians can get away with all of their shit without repricussians or anything while innocent men, women, and children suffer?
This is important and that is having a extruder that is to hot it'll make the filment going into it and it'll get bigger and won't be able to go in I had to open my extruder box thing to fix this and I lost the screws :(
that why i put all screws into a bowl or something that they dont get lost or when they are magnetic on a magnet or something you can even get magnetic bowls for stuff like that. (I can only recommend them)
Hello everybody! I´ve some questions regarding 3D printers Can you print your own transformers or action figures with ANY 3D printer or do you need an especific type of printer? What´s the best material to use if you want solid toys: ABS or PLA? How solid is going to be the toy? Like Hasbro´s solid, like a Lego´s brick or is going to be like a really cheap plastic? Do you need to sand the pieces or they´re already smooth as soon as they leave the print? What´s the best software to use to create toys for 3D printing? And how durable is going to be the toy? Is going to break as soon as it hits the floor?
Angus how do you keep an eye on a print when it's say 24+hrs long? I just left my first long print overnight due to its length and to say i was concerned was an understatement. Thx for the great channel!!!!
"enough filament left" => Weigh your NEW spool of filament before using it. You know the weight of the filament, as that's how it is sold. Subtract, and you find the weight of the EMPTY SPOOL. Write it on the spool. Then if "do I have enough", you can weigh what's left, subtract the spool weight, that gives you the remaining filament weight, so check that it is somewhat greater than what your slicer says it will use.
I have a question about adhesion. so When I print with rafts on my part there are times where the first layer of the part doesnt stick on the raft giving it a really ugly bottom what seems to be the problem?
Since the polyalchemy pla prints at a higher temperature, would that mean its also a bit more compatible with the Australian summer and resistant to turning into a puddle of goo?
What do you do if a roll is ending, and you still have a fair amount of fillament left but not enough for anything you want to print? Do you forget about it and get a new roll? Also, how do you make sure you have enought fillament on a roll for what you want to print?
for the how do you make sure there's enough some slicers have a place where it tells you how many grams it's going to use, you could always just keep up with every print you do on that filament and subtract out of 1000 or you could weigh the spool and calculate the actual spool weight out of the filament, or if you feel you don't have enough hold of on that print and get the same roll of plastic and start with the small roll and when it gets close to being out pause the print and change to the new roll
I have a roll of PLA that's horribly tangled. Came that way right out of the vacuum sealed wrap. I have to unroll and re-roll a bunch off it each use to ensure it'll not catch. Whomever rolled that didn't have the tension correct so it got the filament laid over itself a lot. It'll pull out most of the time but sometimes it holds back hard enough to make the extruder skip.
If you’ve tried anything and everything to improve your bed adhesion but it just isn’t working, here’s a tip most beginners overlook: Grab your child’s Elmers Glue Stick and rub it on your bed. Quite a crude fix, but it does the job surprisingly well. I haven’t had a single print failure due to the print coming off the bed after doing this before every print.
1 & 4 most common if I was to do a survey? 4 is the most frustrating for me. Should I add? Full support? Just to build-plate? Density of support? Shape of support? Tree supports? Change models orientation on bed to alter what type of support, and where it’s to be used? Supports have to be the absolute most frustrating thing for me! Things I want to print I can’t without full supports, and the supports leave my model looking crappy after removed , even if I am able to twist them off successfully without destroying the delicate model that easily took an entire day to print, even if support density was set to only10%. The time it takes to print with full supports is also insane, not to mention the wasted filament. I’ve read that tree supports are not recommended to be used on larger flat areas that need support. Someone seriously needs to provide me much needed help here please! Do I really need an expensive dual extruder fdm machine running dissolvable supports through one extruder, and then fool with dissolving the supports later in a bowl full of lemonade, “if my kids haven’t already drank it up yet?” The subject of supports appears to be a slow learning curve area for me, with lots of trial and error, hit and miss. A VERY frustrating area/aspect of 3d printing for me! Oh yes did I tell you I use a Kossel Delta type printer? This poor boy can’t afford to fly 1st class yet. 😒
Appalling that the technology is still so fragile after 10 years. I would expect self calibrating, self diagnostic, fully idiot proof printers for under $1000 by now.
That's key. Research and a fundamental understanding of how and why things are set up the way they are. I too have not had any catastrophic failures from the items mentioned in the video (did have a tangle in a spool once but caught it before it was a problem).
Fester Blats Not necessarily. While 100hr isn't that much for a 3D printers total runtime, it depends on the kind of things you print. I personally most regularly print 2-6hr small objects. Usually some small part, mount, or shim for a larger project.
I remember having a problem where my PC falls asleep when a 3D-Print is running and the printer just PAUSES and then when I wake my PC the print "Resumes", But what is REALLY happening, The slicer THINKS it was farther into the print than it actually WAS, And, The printer R A M S into the Print, Sending it FLYING.. I learned my lesson, Remember to turn off sleep on your computer's Control Panel.
![FendiDa Rappa - Clock Dat ft. Shamar Marco [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3NBU8KHdxYY/mqdefault.jpg)
9 hours into a 12 hr print and it's running perfect, leave to run to the shops quick and come back to spaghetti 😭
Fuck man 😭
Anything that takes over 3 hours I make out of wood or metal.
Twisted filament probably
I'm so sorry
hell man
Would have been nice if I was recommended this 6 hours earlier
Kai Lanausse y?
Same
@@4llonsy becuz 6 hours ago he failed a print.
@@ruzzcraze1862 z
F
1) Incorrect Bed Level / Nozzle Height
2) Incorrect Slicer Settings
3) Tangled Filament
4) Support Material
5) Not Monitoring 3D Prints
@@EpicEnej well if you're a beginner just saying those words mean nothing. You'd have no idea what they mean
@@EpicEnej not you as in yourself. As any beginner
*If oneself is a beginner then you'd have no idea
just buy Monoprice mini v2, slice with Cura (level bed with wrench) and click print and you won't have these problems
0) incorrect expectations
-1) incorrect assumptions
-2) user incorrect in general
@@TheVergile ?
Mistake 1: check
Mistake 2: check
Mistake 3: check
Mistake 4: check
Mistake 5: check.
Looks like I lose this round of bingo.
or won, depends on how you look at it. Celebrate the failures!
If you learned why they happened then I think you can call it a win or at least a pyrrhic victory
At least you will not do it again lmao
that would suck if you made every mistake you could possibly make in printing
Aliasalpha j8
Right before the 3:00 mark when he starts talking about tangled filament, I looked over to my ender 3 to see my filament tangled during a print I have running.
JC DeFazio I just bought the Ender 5. Do you like the Ender 3?
Ryan Patterson ya it’s real nice
@@ryanpatterson3089 isn’t the ender 5 the really huge one?
@@RetroDotTube its boxy and larger but not massive. It fits comfortably on the desk I have but personally if I knew what I knew going into it I probably would have gotten an ender 3
@@ryanpatterson3089 trust me it’s probably just as hard haha
There's no failed printing, only a new modern art piece! :-)
lol
can you do timelapse of printing fails because it can be interesting
that'd be cool, but expensive
Karnathe I'm sure he has plenty of footage of failed prints, unless he has not saved them over the years.
ruclips.net/video/d2NTHnd5FZQ/видео.html
the sound of failure
@@xkloob you could just knock it over halfway through the print
I just started 3d printing last week and already have made 4/5 of these mistakes. Thanks!
I am so glad You mentioned the tangled filament part! As a filament reseller, I get questions about this every once in a while, where customers claim it is NEVER their fault...
Ott3rman when I was the person that ran the printers at my school we opened a box of makergear filament and didn't even touch it but we could see it was tangled so we took ten minutes to unroll and roll it back up
but I do agree that most of the time it's the consumers fault
it's like Angus said, that mistakes happens to all. I'm just saying it is funny when the same person complains at the same time about two rolls of different brands being tangled half way in... and no matter how gently you try to tell him it is not statistically possible to happen he still demands new rolls...
Speaking of, I wouldn't wind it back up - I'd just cut it when I know the tangle part is not on the spool.
I had to trash half a spool of esun because I managed to get it so tangled I just didn't feel like fixing it.
In regards to supports, thanks for your previous videos about this. You gave me the confidence to use supports when I had been avoiding them. Now I have gotten pretty good at spotting failure points and use supports on my first try for many parts. My prints almost always succeed as a result.
How the world will end:
3D printers that make 3D printers that print 3D printers.
3D Printed Skynet! It'll happen...
People have already printed Terminator figurines, so I guess we're halfway there.
he could try to build some thing out of the sky crawlers.
You mean like Von Neumann Machines?
It would be difficult to print the electronics and motors and aluminum rods.
Yup - made quite a few of these and I've only been doing this a few weeks!
Ok hear me out:
Baby monitor camera for your 3D printer
That way you can check on your baby--er, 3D printer to make sure it's printing right
I turn my Nest cam towards the printer when printing. Not a bad idea at all!
i use my gopro and monitor it from my phone.
Get a raspberryPi with a webcam and install Octoprint
That way you can remotely view your printer and control it
A wyze camera and smart plug will do this job for $50
I took an old Night Owl security camera system for mine. One camera watching the head, one watching the control panel, one watching the print itself.
Great tips. Heres two more, use a wifi camera so you can monitor the printing while not there, and also, set up a wifi controller in the outlet so you can cut the power to the printer remotely from your phone when its done (or failed).
Octoprint. You get a web interface, a camera interface and full control so you can keep an eye on it, pause or stop from wherever you are. :)
Were you snooping around in my office? I have exactly what you described. I'm using a Dome z-wave outlet so I can turn the printer on/off from my phone, and octoprint so I can watch it remotely.
I have a D.Link camera and some of those boxes from aliexpress, that you can control with your phone. They cost like 10euros each.
That's a fantastic suggestion. I'm gonna remember this for when I inevitably cave and buy a 3D printer.
Me?
His hair looks like he 3d printed it
+Bidoof Gaming 3D Printed hair would be a genius invention lol you would make millions
@@MakersMuse For the Aussies, it would be like Eric Bana's parody of Ray Martin on the comedy tv program Fast Forward.
Who cares about the Kid's hair listen to information!
@@bonniehill2594 not gonna lie i forgot i said this also its only a joke man have a little fun
Actually, some brands have been known to have issues with tangles, and it's usually down to specific colors, which indicates that there's likely a single machine from a factory that is the culprit. If they spool it wrong and an area spools looser than another, and ends up overlapping another segment, then gets pulled tight again in another area, the spool can definitely cause an overlap that essentially tangles the filament. When you spool something, it has to be done in a specific order, layer by layer, or this will happen. Even spooling machines are susceptible to this, if they are operated incorrectly.
I used to have a job making cables for power lines and can confirm what you're saying. It's just operator error.
Really glad I found your channel its been an incredible help
Glad to help!
As a random question what do you think of the microswiss all metal hotend? Ive been thinking of replacing my stock hotend for a while now.
Great but not needed unless you're printing the abrasive materials in my opinion.
Maker's Muse Wrong, about how to wind filament. I've dealt with spools for 40 years. The fix? Have your friend hold loose end then roll the spool filament on the way it rolls off, like you were holding a bicycle axle & wheel. When you pull the filament off the edge to the side, it puts twists in the filament. Same when you rewind across the edge in the way you did in the video. I've run miles of cable by hand thru skyscrapers thru the street into another building. As long as the spool can rotate to feed the filament, it has no twist.
Exactly, that was not rolling up, but coiling up under tension. Bad practice whether it is wire, rope or filament...
Getting my first printer for Christmas. Can tell that this is going to be a goto channel for me!!
Great video thank you.
Excellent video. enjoy to watch.
h
Wow, this is the best 3D printing channel I've ever seen. Keep on doing nice vids Angus!
Thanks ! Will do
Maker's Muse hi angus I have a CR 10 and I'm printing a huge lattice cube but I'm in Utah to see my brother for the first time in about 4 months. Love your channel keep up the great work!!
Dingus
For me I only spend a lot of time watching Tom's and Angus's videos. They really take the time to include real information and share knowledge.
Before getting a 3d printer just watch maker's muse videos for success 😀👌
Thanks Angus, always helpful.
If you catch a knot in your spool before it jams up, you can simply take the spool off the holder and undo the tangle by putting the whole spool through the knot. I've done this many times. Another reason to monitor your printer.
I volunteer at a library where the filament ends are not secured by all operators and it happens regularly.
Don't touch the bed, oils in the fingers can prevent the support raft from sticking. If you have a print that adheres to the bed, this tip will help you out: I keep a small spray bottle with rubbing alcohol and paper towel, spritz and wipe, print!
Good tip. I buy the pharmacy brand Alcohol Prep Swabs that are used for insulin injections or blood sugar testing. Tear open a single use package, remove the 1 inch square swab, rub it over the entire surface and you're good to go. If you do it while the bed is preheated, it will evaporate very quickly.
honestly, best tip I've gotten. Didn't think about that, might be why my large area prints aren't sticking.
I do the same but i also dab some gluestick on it, spray with isopropyl before it dries and then wipe the bed clean, spraying more isoproyl as needed. It will create a surfaces that WILL adhere to prints but also detaches when cool. I've found totally clean surface to be actually really, really poor but just wiping the bed once with gluestick+iso will make it way, way better. I do it now regularly, add new thin coat of my special sauce. um.. that sounded dirty for some reason...
I like to write extrusion settings on the filament roll once I've had a satisfactory print.
Good idea.
I damaged my print bed because I didn't level it first
On my first print.
Just got my printer delivered today. Thanks for all the info/ videos!
You just saved my sanity. I am new to this hobby. I purchased filament from amazon. I was printing PTEG at the lower temperature. After reading the label, it required higher bed and nozzle temps than I was using. Thanks Mate.
I wish I could hit the thumbs up this video multiple times!! This is so important for people new to 3D printing! Great job!
Your Printing 101 vids are great. Keep printing!
You r too good man, i was about to buy a 3d printer for myself however when i saw one need to take care of lots of things, thought to drop the idea. Loved the way you explained everything,,,,,
Thank you Angus. I have just ordered my first 3D printer and based on your comments I went with the Wanhao I3+. Have not seen a 3D printer never mind used one, hopefully things go well :)
If your spool is tangled, one quick way that I have found to work is grab the filament one full turn past the end, and pull it out from under the overlap. Most tangles and overlaps stay on the first rotation around the spool due to the tension. Just my experience. AND GET SOME FILAMENT CLIPS!
DUDE! You forgot #6!!! "Getting a crappy first printer instead of doing your research out of overeager enthusiasm."
Valandar2 - Eh, I'd like to disagree with this sentiment. I got one of those 'crappy printers as my first (Anet A8), and I did it after months of research and learning. But I did it because I wanted a project - something to tinker with as well as print things. I love building things, so the assembly of the kit was fun. I must have done well, because my printer is solid as a rock (printwise)now that I got an inductive sensor for autolevelling.
Getting one of the 'crappy' kit types can be the right move, as long as you know what you're getting into and it fits your wants. :)
I didn't mean to imply ALL kit types were crappy. The one I got WAS. It spent 75% of the time I owned it down for repairs, had horrible print quality, and in general was more painful to work with than anything. In my case it was a Geeetech Prusa I3 clone, with warped threaded rods and super-cheap lowest bidder hot ends. And notice the "Overeager Enthusiasm" bit...
Valandar2 - oh I noticed. And I'm not trying to poke at you, just expressing a different take on getting started in this fun hobby. All in good fun!. :)
LOL Yeah thats what I did. I got a Q3d threeup. It looked like it had been steamrolled. Parts were broken and the circuit boards were all skewed and bent. The reset button was junk from the beginning. You never know if it is activated or not. All the parts were cut with a laser and put together like a childs puzzle. Nothing to hold it together though unless you zip tie it. Just moving it around on a table is enough to make it fall apart. But the biggest thing that made that kit a fail was the total lack of any kind of customer support.
Or the opposite. Spending tons of money on a super high end printer when you dont need the extra capabilities it has
i like the guy, i like his video presentations ,i got to understand about what he"'s talking about. he speaks and explains clearly
Oh man, I am guilty of all of these hehe. 3D printing is a constant learning experience though, and that is one of the reasons I absolutely love it!
4:20 Reminds me of when I bought some cheap solid-core doorbell wire to act as an antenna for a CW receiver someone gave me. I unrolled the spool of wire and spent the next hour wrangling it and doing my best to avoid kinks in the wire (which will easily stress and break).
Lesson quickly learned.
Thumbnail: *don’t do this*
Me: hOw thE fUck dO I nOt dO thAt
YES. YES. A THOUSAND TIMES YES! I feel like if I saw this when I first started, I wouldn't quite understand, but boy howdy do I understand NOW. And sticking the loose filament in those holes. JEEZUS is it infuriating finding out the reason it jammed is because I didn't do that. I NEVER forget to now of course. I think everyone's 3D Printing education journey just has to have these trials and errors so we learn not to by failing. it sucks so bad though, but I'm glad I know what not to do and totally why so I don't again.These days I never print rafts, and I'm getting into using Meshmixer to create column/cone supports instead of my slicer's crappy ones. prints look so good these days
In my opinion the biggest mistake i see is entering in 3d printing without really knowing what you are doing, it seems quite obvious but the first thing you want to do is looking at tutorials or reading some information and manuals, will avoid a lost of mistakes and frustrations :)
6 minutes ago
I did lots of research before I bought 4 different printers; 3 UP printers and a Prusa, for use in the classroom. All had outstanding reviews and while I have managed to print some awesome files, NONE of them proton consistently well. The biggest disappointment is my 2 month old Prusa. I just can't get it to print as it should.
Yes i agree but what i mean is that i often see new comers in 3d printing that don't really know what they can or can't do. I mean, it's not rare to have someone ask how to put the STL on the printer, or whatever non sense question. When you go into 3d printing the first thing before buying the printer is to document yourself at least about the basics.
Agree 3D printing is changing so fast do your research before you buy or you will get burnt after you buy and find something with a new feature that would make your life easier.
Or buying a makerbot printer
I spent 3 weeks leveling 😂 totally worth it but I guarantee this has deterred a ton of us newbies from sticking to it.
haha, I think I made all 5 within a week. Really good vid :) keep up the good work :) Although, even now I tend not to monitor my print. as much as I should :/ I tend to watch the first few layers, and about 10 min later, but then I tend to leave it to run :/
I do have an octoprint setup thats monitoring the print for failures though
Great video Angus...and I confess to 4 out of 5 of these errors (never made a birds nest). Thanks also for the great e-book, which I have found useful even though I've been 3D printing for three/four years. It's a shame to see a few folks getting high on pointing out errors/typos when they have not offered the community anything like the knowledge and experience you have - I'm sure you don't let them get to you, but want to say again you're doing an ace job here and do please keep doing it.
Prusa i3 mk2s squad laughing at the first tip.
"Oh yeah... the Z adjust took me five minutes two months ago, that's right I forgot that"
To be fair, I still tweak my z adjust a little bit, I think temperature varies it slightly. But yes... rarely!
Maker's Muse temperature hehe labeling at controller end of both heat elements got off. So I pulled on those to see which ends belong to which already mounted hottend on completed x axis. After three days failing to heat I remembered what happened and yepp had mixed up + - of #0 and #1. And those screws can get you screwed if they get loose and you hear it rattle from the z axis colliding with the printed part.
I realize this is a 4 year old video but, in case someone stumbles on it as I did here is #6. And, by the way, I am now at month 7 of printing and I learned a lot. #6. When you build your file in what ever CAD you use and you are joining pieces together make sure to overlay them. Example, two 3D squares of same size. Do NOT just bang them both together so they are just touching. You want to embed one within the other. Depending on the shape I try to embed one object within the other by .3mm. That seems to be enough of a join. I am sure you can do it with .1mm but I like to be sure to play it safe.
Good tips to keep in mind. Haven't experienced roll tangling but I'm sure if I start swapping rolls a lot and get ahead of myself, it will happen. When I bought my kit, I specifically payed the extra $20 for the auto leveling kit to avoid that problem and so far it seems to work well. I find I have to check and usually adjust the height of the nozzle before I start a print to make sure it isn't to far away, or sometimes, to close, so that is something I think I'd add to the tips, check nozzle height with feeler gauge before printing to make sure it is right. Also, I check the nozzle for any plastic goobers that have built up and wipe / break them off too. I've also had pretty good luck, for the most part, with using 3M painters tape on the bed for the first layer to adhere.
holly flip number five got me paranoid about my running printer back home :0
You forgot the most important lesson that I learned. Don't leave your cat who likes to play with moving things in your printer room while you are gone. Yeah. I was too mad to take pictures.
I recently printed something that was mostly flat and needed supports, but I forgot to turn it on in the settings. Luckily the Trinus bridged and and the surface layer is visually perfect, while the underside is covered in coiled extrusions. Saved the print that took 5 hours and it is still fully functional.
The tangled filament frustrated me to no end! Uggg. The more you know, the better your experience. Thanks for the videos you make. They're awesome as always.
If you see a tangle on the spool before it jams up, you can simply take the spool off and put it through the knot from it's end. I've done it many times, but like Angus said, you have to monitor your printer.
Angus I have to say my friend I cant get enough of your videos. I've had to learn this awesome hobby by making a lot of my own mistakes. If I had found your channel when I first started printing my experience would have went a lot smoother and would have been a lot less frustrating. My wife is in Florida for a few days so l plan on binge watching lol. Your doing a great thing for us 3d junkies.
I wonder how many people remember helping to wind a skein of yarn into a ball, for someone who is knitting something. Same "DO NOT GET TANGLED" rule, here.
I hooked up my webcam right in front of my 3d printer, so whenever I need to look at it I can even from half way across the world haha, although I can only stop it if I have the print running from my computer
Octoprint.
Thx to a vid like yours (or mayby even yours) i was able to avoid the first one yet
There are times when I think the biggest mistake that you can make is getting started in 3D-printing to begin with. 8-)
yes. also 3d printers tend to multiple themselves somehow !
Angus said to never let a 3d printer unattended, but I guess letting 2 at the same time is worse :)
hahaha
How can I not let the printer be unattended with the 10 day prints i'm printing now?
New to 3d printing here, happy to follow your channel, though currently I'm so busy I don't get anywhere near enough time online. Seen a few of your vids and decided it's for me. Great job mate 👍👍👍
I received an Anet a8 for my birthday last week and I have just dived into 3d printing! Your channel is a blessing, Angus, keep it up! If you ever come to Italy I'll be glad to offer you a couple beers!! :D
Thanks! I'd love to visit one day. Enjoy 3D Printing :)
I suggest joining the Facebook page for help and suggested upgrades and modifications.
How's your Anet A8 doing? I got one last year.
Is it a good printer? My dad promised me to buy an Anet A8 for Christmas
A little trick to help respool filament without the spiraling twisting end going crazy is to alternate the twist as you loop the filament back on. In other words, twist the filament clockwise (Cw) or anticlockwise (Acw) the filament will tell you which way it wants to go naturally. For this example say it wants to naturally twist CW, the next loop gets an ACW twist, then CW then ACW. Before you know it this becomes second nature. The spool will get reloaded in its manufactured natural state. This also works brilliantly with hoses and ropes and power cables. I can lay a 30meter long power cable as a spool next to a PowerPoint, pick up the socket end and just walk away with it without any concern that it will bird nest on me. A side benefit is your spool of whatever you have will become soft and supple and lay flat without trip hazard vertical loops. But I digress. As a secondary bonus your filament spools coiled in this manner will have less chance of unwinding wildly as well.
Ps. Love your channel and you have been a great help with my first foray into 3D printing with my new “Anycubic Upgraded Delta Rostock Linear Plus 3D Printer”. God, I wish they’d give them a simpler name!
Another mistake that certain peope *will* make: "Uh, I bought a 3D printer. My nephew is good with computers so he can install it for me and teach me how it works".
Since in a metaphorical sense I've been the "nephew" from that example on more occasions than I care to count, I'll just passively-aggressively add that no, we "nephews" can't teach you, and no, we don't know what's wrong with your phone/TV/radio either. And for fuck's sake don't call us when your car also breaks down...or makes a strange noise... what? You just got an air fryer? That's it, I'm migrating and changing my name. Fuck that shit.
Yeah i've noticed that too. To get any meaningful use out of a 3D Printer, you need to be a 3D Artist and ideally have some Engineering knowledge when things go wrong. Both of which take years of dedication to get good at.
To be fair though, I find the marketing to be incredibly misleading. It gives the impression that anyone can buy a pricey 3D Printer and just magically create new things at their home. I've yet to see a 3D Printer that worked flawlessly out of the box.
lol pretty snark. Just help them, and don't be afraid to ask for help with other seperate issues. It's how the world works.
@@Fuckoff-1 He kinda has a point. Too many people over rely on their IT friends/family to handle any and all of their tech problems. It gets to the point where they expect them to just drop anything in order to help them print a document with no source file, for install more RAM, or delete a virus off an already destroyed computer, etc. If it's someone who knows a thing or two about computers and just needs some help with advanced problems, or trying to build a custom PC from scratch, then that's fine. We're all for that. But when your like someone's dumbass aunt or a friend who couldn't pass high school, asking for help with mundane shit starts to really be freaking annoying.
@@parallax7789 Yeah I know that is true, but you can't spend your life changing how other people do things.
AND once you help them they owe you a favour. Let's say you don't know mechanics, someone you helped will be able to help you change your oil!
What goes around comes around
@@Fuckoff-1 But what if they don't know how to do anything on their own, even basic shit like cooking, cleaning, or even holding a job? How they hell are they supposed to help you? There are friends family who will expect others to drop everything just for them, but won't lift a finger if they just need a ride. Plus, if the prase "What goes around comes around" is true, please explain who criminals? crooked cops, and corrupt politicians can get away with all of their shit without repricussians or anything while innocent men, women, and children suffer?
thank you for this video , great to learn about 3D printing before i try and get into it. its just so expensive for me to buy a entry level machine.
This is important and that is having a extruder that is to hot it'll make the filment going into it and it'll get bigger and won't be able to go in
I had to open my extruder box thing to fix this and I lost the screws :(
that why i put all screws into a bowl or something that they dont get lost or when they are magnetic on a magnet or something you can even get magnetic bowls for stuff like that. (I can only recommend them)
@@mrn234 I have a empty tub of jelly
Why don't they just design them so the bed will adjust at every moment with the nozzle? Seems more logical than what they're doing today.
What is that blue car/robot thing in background?
This! ruclips.net/video/fGE6FPOP3vE/видео.html
Thanks a lot.... looking for all your videos
Very informative, as always Angus.
Yep, me too :-)
Hello everybody! I´ve some questions regarding 3D printers
Can you print your own transformers or action figures with ANY 3D printer or do you need an especific type of printer?
What´s the best material to use if you want solid toys: ABS or PLA?
How solid is going to be the toy? Like Hasbro´s solid, like a Lego´s brick or is going to be like a really cheap plastic?
Do you need to sand the pieces or they´re already smooth as soon as they leave the print?
What´s the best software to use to create toys for 3D printing?
And how durable is going to be the toy? Is going to break as soon as it hits the floor?
Wish I knew about tangled filament when I started out, many a bad print from that. Last tip is vital to the process IMO
Angus how do you keep an eye on a print when it's say 24+hrs long?
I just left my first long print overnight due to its length and to say i was concerned was an understatement. Thx for the great channel!!!!
Lots of Coffee!!
Careful preparation.
awesome video mate, very useful
Has a machine that melts plastics back into string, been created yet?
TheUnholiness Within there are a few diy out there, but make sure you have a well ventilated area.
The filastruder or the filabot. Just be sure to get an old paper shredder or the like to help shred your prints.
Your Mileage May Vary on them.
"enough filament left" => Weigh your NEW spool of filament before using it. You know the weight of the filament, as that's how it is sold. Subtract, and you find the weight of the EMPTY SPOOL. Write it on the spool. Then if "do I have enough", you can weigh what's left, subtract the spool weight, that gives you the remaining filament weight, so check that it is somewhat greater than what your slicer says it will use.
I have a question about adhesion. so When I print with rafts on my part there are times where the first layer of the part doesnt stick on the raft giving it a really ugly bottom what seems to be the problem?
Try putting down painters tape on the platform, its what we do in school and I can't say I have ever had a raft problem.
Gah always shilling your ebook :) jk love your stuff.
Lol well it IS new :O
Awesome video Angus, thanks for sharing these really great tips on how to avoid those common mistakes in 3d printing.
Interesting and well presented
You forgot number 6, never become a 3d printing facebook moderator :-)
Ohgod, so much respect for mods...!
Thank you for your thoughts young brother. Very helpful.
Since the polyalchemy pla prints at a higher temperature, would that mean its also a bit more compatible with the Australian summer and resistant to turning into a puddle of goo?
Possibly, but I still think it'd deform in a hot car. It's not that much higher.
Yes but I believe the summer would be the least of your worries in Australia.
Remote camera and two remote power sockets....I love 3D printing but I can't spend 36 hours watching it print😅
Fantastic information as always from Angus.
Amazing a printer nowadays can't tell that a layer has not gone down correctly and paused the print.
When you don't really have a 3D printer...
i wish you had them listed in the description section. some read much faster than watching the video.
What do you do if a roll is ending, and you still have a fair amount of fillament left but not enough for anything you want to print? Do you forget about it and get a new roll? Also, how do you make sure you have enought fillament on a roll for what you want to print?
for the how do you make sure there's enough some slicers have a place where it tells you how many grams it's going to use, you could always just keep up with every print you do on that filament and subtract out of 1000 or you could weigh the spool and calculate the actual spool weight out of the filament, or if you feel you don't have enough hold of on that print and get the same roll of plastic and start with the small roll and when it gets close to being out pause the print and change to the new roll
For shorter pieces of filament left over, you can measure itand figure 1 gram per foot. A print preview should give you the amount of material needed.
I measure short leftover pieces and figure one gram per foot.
Weighing the spool is a great idea, I'm going to start doing that, thanks.
Thank goodness I have already made all of these mistakes before
What is the best cheap 3D printer?
Google it
Jman 51 I would say the Anet A8
Jurek Sachs No the Tevo Tarantula is better
I have just ordered an anet a6 , seems good for the price and for a begginer
u
dont know? idk either
Jacko ain't dead, he's gone into 3D printing LOL
love your videos dude I am getting my 1st 3d printer in a week this video should help
No open windows in winter.
No printing in air flow
No quickly changing temperatures
Solution to all of them is to put sides around the 3d printer.
Mistake 1 is watching videos on 3D printing.
+insanity Plus go down the rabbit hole
I have a roll of PLA that's horribly tangled. Came that way right out of the vacuum sealed wrap. I have to unroll and re-roll a bunch off it each use to ensure it'll not catch. Whomever rolled that didn't have the tension correct so it got the filament laid over itself a lot. It'll pull out most of the time but sometimes it holds back hard enough to make the extruder skip.
Your hair looks like it has been glued on
My secret shame!
Sweet! Probably 3D Printed
Maker's Muse wow I didn't know you answered!.. I feel special now :3
It was 3D printed
Ian Ciborowski Ooo,oo,do a mustache!
If you’ve tried anything and everything to improve your bed adhesion but it just isn’t working, here’s a tip most beginners overlook:
Grab your child’s Elmers Glue Stick and rub it on your bed. Quite a crude fix, but it does the job surprisingly well. I haven’t had a single print failure due to the print coming off the bed after doing this before every print.
you're the cutest guy on youtube, I'm in love. I want to hug you and play with your hair
1 & 4 most common if I was to do a survey? 4 is the most frustrating for me. Should I add? Full support? Just to build-plate? Density of support? Shape of support? Tree supports? Change models orientation on bed to alter what type of support, and where it’s to be used? Supports have to be the absolute most frustrating thing for me! Things I want to print I can’t without full supports, and the supports leave my model looking crappy after removed , even if I am able to twist them off successfully without destroying the delicate model that easily took an entire day to print, even if support density was set to only10%. The time it takes to print with full supports is also insane, not to mention the wasted filament. I’ve read that tree supports are not recommended to be used on larger flat areas that need support. Someone seriously needs to provide me much needed help here please! Do I really need an expensive dual extruder fdm machine running dissolvable supports through one extruder, and then fool with dissolving the supports later in a bowl full of lemonade, “if my kids haven’t already drank it up yet?” The subject of supports appears to be a slow learning curve area for me, with lots of trial and error, hit and miss. A VERY frustrating area/aspect of 3d printing for me! Oh yes did I tell you I use a Kossel Delta type printer? This poor boy can’t afford to fly 1st class yet. 😒
Appalling that the technology is still so fragile after 10 years. I would expect self calibrating, self diagnostic, fully idiot proof printers for under $1000 by now.
There are several self leveling printers with diagnostics under $1k but you'll never make them idiot proof.
Thanks Muse!
You forgot one mistake.
Not buying a 3d printer.
Do they give off a smell that shouldn't be kept indoors? Should I have a 3D printer in a shop or is it OK to have one in the house?
100+ hours of 3D Printing and haven't had any of these happen to me yet.
Nice! Must have a good machine and a lot of attention to detail. I'm usually just too impatient.
Lots of research and patience AND been watching your channel for a few months now :D
What printer are you using?
That's key. Research and a fundamental understanding of how and why things are set up the way they are. I too have not had any catastrophic failures from the items mentioned in the video (did have a tangle in a spool once but caught it before it was a problem).
Fester Blats Not necessarily. While 100hr isn't that much for a 3D printers total runtime, it depends on the kind of things you print. I personally most regularly print 2-6hr small objects. Usually some small part, mount, or shim for a larger project.
I remember having a problem where my PC falls asleep when a 3D-Print is running and the printer just PAUSES and then when I wake my PC the print "Resumes", But what is REALLY happening, The slicer THINKS it was farther into the print than it actually WAS, And, The printer R A M S into the Print, Sending it FLYING.. I learned my lesson, Remember to turn off sleep on your computer's Control Panel.
You lost me at "friend"..