Interestingly my wanhao duplicator plus is very reliable and gave good prints from the get go but my creality Crx is a little touchy. I have had separation issues with it lately out of nowhere.
@Blondie SL I have the exact same problem. 1 layer at random heights. Especially when it is a long print. My bench looks very good but what is the point! My filament spool holder is not very good either. It is a wrench taped on the frame of the printer :D I guess it's time to change it. Except, I didn't catch any tight filament situation, but it is possible. I have changed from Z stepper driver to lead screws, nozzle, heater... frustration... 3D printing is a cursed action...
@Blondie SL Yes, that issue is avoided by the "part cooling fan" . That cools the rest of the filament and makes the filament "pushable" through the nozzle. My new experience with this random missing layers problem led me to change the slicer software. As I mentioned before, it happens just like you described and model got taller when matched to a successfully printed model. I was using simplify 3D 4.0 and always had the issue just after z-hop moment. Literally, Z stepper goes up for z-hop, and nozzle goes to another line to start printing (new layer) and it makes just another z-hop without going down in Z direction. InterestingIy couldn't spot the issue in .gcode. Now have migrated to Cura and it solved the issue. I guess some models cause difficulty for some slicer Softwares... At least in my case.
@Blondie SL Just don't bother with motorizing the spool. I've bearings upgrade for spool too and it moves really easy on the bearings, even filament's springy behavior can roll it now. If your bearings have resistance, clean them with detergent and drop them in WD40 but I'm afraid it is not the real source of the problem. I'm using the latest Cura 4.1.2. Just install it and add your printer. Search for a decent profile, I'm using Chep's Cura profile, and don't bother with changing settings. Transferring settings resulted with no success in my case from S3D -> Cura. Chep's profile just worked perfectly. Z hop causes and fixes lots of problems depending on models... I'm not using it in Cura. No need for it if you are not printing tall thin objects. Ohh, You should definitely clean the extruder gears, nozzle, throat and make a tight connection between them while they are heated. I'm full of experience with 3D printing these days, after lots of frustration. Take care.
Depends on what you call a razor. The thinnest point can only be as thin as one layer. For best results, you’ll probably have to print it with the very tip of the razor on the printing bed. Interesting thought though
Thank you, I was scared to to the pla higher then 225, Its dark filament and have issues with separation, started printing at 235 and what a difference! Started to explore hotter heat settings for the speed
likely it’s not heat, if your material is printing fine then don’t adjust that. actually look at the arm that is pressing the filament to your extruded motor. When you open that arm, and here a click or the filament sticking, then loosen that screw that is holding that arm. another sign that the screw is too tight, is the filament is being rubbed against the motor to tightly and is rubbing away. (causes air gaps in the hot end). Usually layer separations is with PETG or PLA, PETG i like to run with 225 and 100% fan speed. PLA i like to print around 180 and 50% fan speed!
Excellent Video and tips. You solved my issue. I had tried everything else you mentioned, however I had never heard of changing fan speed. I took it from 100% to 33%, and it was like printing with a different PLA. This is my second spool and this one required a bit higher temp as well. Thank you!!, I'm subscribing :)
I tried calling support for some more help because I'm completely stuck on what to do. I have an ender 3. And they said they can't help me because I didn't buy my printer from them. What kind of crap is that. I just need more help and they would bother to help me.
Layer separation doesn't always occur at the same height, in which layer varies. Printer is in a drafty location, breeziness varies depending on time of day. Nozzle temperature does not remain consistent, fluctuating between 190°C and 206°C, with a 205°C setting. Fan speed is always at 100%, it's a Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro. I'll increase temperature while I figure out an enclosure.
but.. if you print this one thing multiple times.. and suddenly you get layer seperation.. and it gets worse and worse every time you print.. then what
Having a little bit of an issue with layer separation after a print is finished with CF nylon. Print temps, speeds, all that stuff is correct. Printing right out of the packaging brand new, so I'm thinking I just need to run it in my dryer box then try it again.
@Blondie SL Yeah, I wound up with the CR10 Max, and I've been printing successfully on and off, it isn't perfect but we all know this tech isn't really plug and play yet. Some tinkering required. If I ever get an enclosure for it it will probably be custom cut plexiglass or something similar, but I haven't felt the need because the bed gets up to 80c no problem with that machine. But I do love how it's like, yeah throw this fire hazard over your printer. The nozzle can hit about 400 and something Fahrenheit and it moves a lot but that's fine.
Hey @Alec. Great job as usual. Have you covered the settings needed to print with larger nozzle diameter? Specifically .6mm nozzle, layer height extrusion multiplier, layer width, temperature and speed, and how they affect each other, and how much different they are relative to a .4mm nozzle. There is some cause and effect going on here that doesn't seem to be linear. I print a lot with NylonX and Armadillo. I need strong small parts. Thanks, Lindsey
I have a gap when it switches/transfer from main infill density to top layer solid infill; show up on the outer side wall per test cube and other prints. Cube prints well, it’s just right at the top layer i have a separation. How do I stop this? I’m using cura.
I'm running into some random layer separation on my prints using the AmazonBasics Black PETG on a CR-10S. I'm running at 255C and 45 mm/s. The rest of the print looks great, but I just have some random layers here and there that don't. I may try turning down the cooling fan
Similar issue with the Amazon PLA right now. running at 210C 60mm/s with a 60C bed on the Ender 3. Maybe Amazon Filament is just trash? The filament that came with the printer didn't have any issues at all. Thoughts?
Shadow the Wiseman I’m not sure about amazon PLA, but I think I’d try a little hotter. Like 215C or 220C. I ended up finding that one of my issues was that I had replaced the nozzle, and you’re apparently supposed to tighten it down when it’s hot, or sometimes plastic can get into where the nozzle is supposed to seat; I found out that some of the filament was oozing out above the nozzle rather than coming out of the tip. I’ve gotten pretty good results since I fixed that
Hi hope I can help layer separation issue was due to humidity in the filament bake your filament below the heat it can withstand for about 3 hours and try again Did wonders for my Nylon Petg and Pla
My layers don’t separate initially but after maybe 30 minutes of a medium sized print it Swiss cheeses, basically like someone pokes tiny holes in the print
I’m new to 3D printing and am wondering how is a filament change handled during a print? I have 2 Bowden extruders combining at 1 nozzle. I am using Repetier Host software.
Big thank you! Very helpful. Now I correctly understand the issue. And of course, i was able to produce successful print with ABS plus !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
any idea why a printer would stop printing in the middle of a print??? print was fine up until it just stopped moving...machine did not shut off,nozzle temp and bed temp stayed same...could not resume of change settings... i had to power off and start a new print...than as like with the other it just stopped again 10 mins into the print.... i have fixed dozens of issues on 3d printers,but this issue is something i don't understand...PS i have printed this file many times with no issues... please help... thanks
I just got my CR-10 printer and i started printing parts for my robot arm. But i doesnt go to well because i have elephant's foot. The first 5 layers of material is getting pushed out, but i cant level my bed lower so that the nozzel has more room. And if i level the Z frame it wont save the distance and it will go to auto home. If i use raft the problem is solved but then the print just looks ugly afther removing the raft... And my English isn't good, just saying. Hope some one can help me!
I notice I only have gaps in the right side of the printer, I thought was the 3d model but when I print again the same model with other orientation the gaps always are in the right side of the machine.
Im a newbie so sorry ahead of time. I'm using an Ender 3, I just upgraded my bodon tube to a capricorn tube. This came with a new nozzle that is steel. I ran a gcode that never gave me issues before. Now in seeing huge amounts of stringing, and my part breaks apart in my hand with just a little pressure. Im using black PLA at 220 degrees. Am I running too hot? Too cold? Or could it be my nozzle is too far off the bed? No idea what is causing this.
Thanks for this... it helps explain why prints 'first thing in the morning' out in the 'cold shop' are struggling. My first reaction to a failed print is 'bed leveling' except that bed adhesions was great... so yup -- trash bag... ooooh... sexy.
Hey, I am having an issue where my layers are being printed each time further to the left side... making almost a "motion shadow" of layers, anyone has any clue on how to fix this problem and what is causing it? Obs: My first 2 prints went great.
You're layer shifting, I had this issue before, you should start by adjusting the tension on your belts (should not be too tight but not too loose either!) And then you should start calibrating your extruder and your z offset if you have auto leveling . It's most likely over extrusion as my printer had the same issue where over extrusion forced the nozzle to dig into the plastic and thus forcing the x or y motor to skip which results in shifted layers. You should also calibrate your motor's drivers as they could be not providing sufficient amperage to the motors which doesn't allow them to run at their intended torque output.
Probably the X or Y belt is loose making the belt slip. Or it could be that the print head is loose on the carriage. But it's probably loose slipping belts.
Me realizing my printer defaults to 250 mm/s as you're saying that 100 is high. That might be what is doing it lol. (Especially since the printer shakes a bit from how fast it moves)
Take a look at Carbon Fiber Reinforced PEEK filament from 3DXTech. Crazy stuff. $85 for 100g of the stuff. Prints at 380-410C, 130-150C bed and needs an enclosure that is also heated. insanely strong stuff and extremely hard to print.
I ve experimented lot of failure Layer Separation printing with 1 mm nozzle with PLA at 220 Celsius .. now i understand better the problem could be the temp .. i ll try to reinstall the nozzle (now i put back the 0.4mm) and print at more temperature like you said 245 degrees , with low or zero fan (i need it to print some square empty shelf like this "www.thingiverse.com/thing:2745961"
I am new to 3-D printers. I have my first on order right now. You’re talking about layer separation but you provide no example of what this is or what it looks like. I’m going to Google it to see an image. My recommendation is that if you’re talking about something, show us an example of what it is so we know exactly what you’re talking about. When I start printing after, watching your video, I hope to be able to identify what layer separation is and how to address it but I won’t be able to do that without an example. Thank you.
Best of luck with your first prints. There are lots of online support groups that can help too with whatever issue you come across. I agree though, he really should have showed an example.
How do you fix your layer separation issues?
Lower layer heights seem to to help alot
Interestingly my wanhao duplicator plus is very reliable and gave good prints from the get go but my creality Crx is a little touchy. I have had separation issues with it lately out of nowhere.
@Blondie SL I have the exact same problem. 1 layer at random heights. Especially when it is a long print. My bench looks very good but what is the point! My filament spool holder is not very good either. It is a wrench taped on the frame of the printer :D I guess it's time to change it. Except, I didn't catch any tight filament situation, but it is possible. I have changed from Z stepper driver to lead screws, nozzle, heater... frustration... 3D printing is a cursed action...
@Blondie SL Yes, that issue is avoided by the "part cooling fan" . That cools the rest of the filament and makes the filament "pushable" through the nozzle.
My new experience with this random missing layers problem led me to change the slicer software. As I mentioned before, it happens just like you described and model got taller when matched to a successfully printed model. I was using simplify 3D 4.0 and always had the issue just after z-hop moment. Literally, Z stepper goes up for z-hop, and nozzle goes to another line to start printing (new layer) and it makes just another z-hop without going down in Z direction. InterestingIy couldn't spot the issue in .gcode. Now have migrated to Cura and it solved the issue.
I guess some models cause difficulty for some slicer Softwares... At least in my case.
@Blondie SL Just don't bother with motorizing the spool. I've bearings upgrade for spool too and it moves really easy on the bearings, even filament's springy behavior can roll it now. If your bearings have resistance, clean them with detergent and drop them in WD40 but I'm afraid it is not the real source of the problem.
I'm using the latest Cura 4.1.2. Just install it and add your printer. Search for a decent profile, I'm using Chep's Cura profile, and don't bother with changing settings. Transferring settings resulted with no success in my case from S3D -> Cura. Chep's profile just worked perfectly.
Z hop causes and fixes lots of problems depending on models... I'm not using it in Cura. No need for it if you are not printing tall thin objects.
Ohh, You should definitely clean the extruder gears, nozzle, throat and make a tight connection between them while they are heated.
I'm full of experience with 3D printing these days, after lots of frustration.
Take care.
Thanks wolverine for this video
dam you beat me too it ...
Beat me to it just by one second
@@alexallen3812 that was commented a year ago....
@@charlesramsey7847 lol I figured that out after I posted that
My first thought was curious george... perhaps because I was just watching one of his videos.
i came for the side burns. the information that makes my 3d printing better is a bonus for sure.
Majorly underated guide
Had a class at community college with him. He's actually pretty lit, and super helpful even outside of work
Yeah he lives next door to me, pretty lit
@@thenoobletlego I live with him, he's awesome
@@toefu1179 Oh I'm actually his long lost twin. But instead of sideburns, I have a huge chevron mustache. He's pretty cool.
3:08 DO NOT cover your power supply.
Good to know😂
Nah, dood, this guy did it to stop draft from cooling the temp on the whole printer, if the PSU catches on fire, that's even better!!
Can you print a razor?
😂
Depends on what you call a razor. The thinnest point can only be as thin as one layer. For best results, you’ll probably have to print it with the very tip of the razor on the printing bed. Interesting thought though
😂😂
Thank you, I was scared to to the pla higher then 225, Its dark filament and have issues with separation, started printing at 235 and what a difference! Started to explore hotter heat settings for the speed
I finally got my enclosure pieces built and put together. Now I'm having layer separation issues with the same settings xD
likely it’s not heat, if your material is printing fine then don’t adjust that. actually look at the arm that is pressing the filament to your extruded motor. When you open that arm, and here a click or the filament sticking, then loosen that screw that is holding that arm. another sign that the screw is too tight, is the filament is being rubbed against the motor to tightly and is rubbing away. (causes air gaps in the hot end). Usually layer separations is with PETG or PLA, PETG i like to run with 225 and 100% fan speed. PLA i like to print around 180 and 50% fan speed!
Amazing video! Well made, well done, right to the point and very easy to listen to and understand. Thank you a ton!
Excellent Video and tips. You solved my issue. I had tried everything else you mentioned, however I had never heard of changing fan speed. I took it from 100% to 33%, and it was like printing with a different PLA. This is my second spool and this one required a bit higher temp as well. Thank you!!, I'm subscribing :)
Good explanation, I was able to fix my layer separation with PETG.
Extremely helpful and direct, more videos on yt should be like this
Too bad video shows no examples of prints with the issue. It makes it difficult to determine if my print from the issue described here.
Just starting out in the 3D printing world and this series is proving to be a great resource many thanks
thank you so much this was fast and to the point I cant stand annoying dialog but you were so great. thank you so so much.
I tried calling support for some more help because I'm completely stuck on what to do. I have an ender 3. And they said they can't help me because I didn't buy my printer from them. What kind of crap is that. I just need more help and they would bother to help me.
Layer separation doesn't always occur at the same height, in which layer varies.
Printer is in a drafty location, breeziness varies depending on time of day.
Nozzle temperature does not remain consistent, fluctuating between 190°C and 206°C, with a 205°C setting.
Fan speed is always at 100%, it's a Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro.
I'll increase temperature while I figure out an enclosure.
Subbed for the trash bag tip, I needed something ASAP
Mine was printing fine,until the weather got colder.Then I started getting weak 3D prints.
Disabled the cooling fan,and up'ed the bed to 65ºC.
but.. if you print this one thing multiple times.. and suddenly you get layer seperation.. and it gets worse and worse every time you print.. then what
Having a little bit of an issue with layer separation after a print is finished with CF nylon. Print temps, speeds, all that stuff is correct. Printing right out of the packaging brand new, so I'm thinking I just need to run it in my dryer box then try it again.
thank a ton i now know why my print looks bad and pulling up
the 270* and speed ratio was some new info for me THANKS!!
I just printed a mini at 200 degrees and had this issue... the dwarf split at the waist. Gonna have to ramp it above manufacurer's specs
Thanks! Good video, I'll try higher temps.
Here to learn about 3D printing because I need it for a couple of projects. Using a trash bag as an enclosure sounds real scary.
@Blondie SL Yeah, I wound up with the CR10 Max, and I've been printing successfully on and off, it isn't perfect but we all know this tech isn't really plug and play yet. Some tinkering required. If I ever get an enclosure for it it will probably be custom cut plexiglass or something similar, but I haven't felt the need because the bed gets up to 80c no problem with that machine. But I do love how it's like, yeah throw this fire hazard over your printer. The nozzle can hit about 400 and something Fahrenheit and it moves a lot but that's fine.
Hey @Alec. Great job as usual.
Have you covered the settings needed to print with larger nozzle diameter? Specifically .6mm nozzle, layer height extrusion multiplier, layer width, temperature and speed, and how they affect each other, and how much different they are relative to a .4mm nozzle.
There is some cause and effect going on here that doesn't seem to be linear.
I print a lot with NylonX and Armadillo. I need strong small parts.
Thanks,
Lindsey
I have areas where it looks like there's pla missing in my print any ideas
I have a gap when it switches/transfer from main infill density to top layer solid infill; show up on the outer side wall per test cube and other prints. Cube prints well, it’s just right at the top layer i have a separation. How do I stop this? I’m using cura.
Everyone, on RUclips search up "In the summer time" by Mungo Jerry
LOVE THE CHOPS!
I respect your chad chops my good man. Thanks this was helpful!
Are you related to General Burnside?
What if it’s like a sponging where they are not connected at all?
how do you get good adhesion if say i stop the print and resume it the next day? Is this even possible?
waaaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyy!!!! superior channel and content than the others. By the way you fixed my problem. i appreciate your content.
What about Fire Hazards?
I'm running into some random layer separation on my prints using the AmazonBasics Black PETG on a CR-10S. I'm running at 255C and 45 mm/s. The rest of the print looks great, but I just have some random layers here and there that don't. I may try turning down the cooling fan
Similar issue with the Amazon PLA right now. running at 210C 60mm/s with a 60C bed on the Ender 3. Maybe Amazon Filament is just trash? The filament that came with the printer didn't have any issues at all. Thoughts?
Shadow the Wiseman I’m not sure about amazon PLA, but I think I’d try a little hotter. Like 215C or 220C.
I ended up finding that one of my issues was that I had replaced the nozzle, and you’re apparently supposed to tighten it down when it’s hot, or sometimes plastic can get into where the nozzle is supposed to seat; I found out that some of the filament was oozing out above the nozzle rather than coming out of the tip. I’ve gotten pretty good results since I fixed that
Hi hope I can help layer separation issue was due to humidity in the filament bake your filament below the heat it can withstand for about 3 hours and try again
Did wonders for my Nylon Petg and Pla
My layers don’t separate initially but after maybe 30 minutes of a medium sized print it Swiss cheeses, basically like someone pokes tiny holes in the print
I get the display of simplicity but putting a bag over a printer is a straight hazard 🤣🤣🤣
U need the fan off for PETG
I’m new to 3D printing and am wondering how is a filament change handled during a print? I have 2 Bowden extruders combining at 1 nozzle. I am using Repetier Host software.
You might have a pause print option. Watch some videos...
Is it safe putting a plastic bag over that thing?
Big thank you! Very helpful. Now I correctly understand the issue. And of course, i was able to produce successful print with ABS plus !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks, this was helpful.
Ohh maybe that’s why the problem only started when I switched to white pla
very knowledgeable.
any idea why a printer would stop printing in the middle of a print??? print was fine up until it just stopped moving...machine did not shut off,nozzle temp and bed temp stayed same...could not resume of change settings... i had to power off and start a new print...than as like with the other it just stopped again 10 mins into the print.... i have fixed dozens of issues on 3d printers,but this issue is something i don't understand...PS i have printed this file many times with no issues... please help... thanks
I just got my CR-10 printer and i started printing parts for my robot arm. But i doesnt go to well because i have elephant's foot. The first 5 layers of material is getting pushed out, but i cant level my bed lower so that the nozzel has more room. And if i level the Z frame it wont save the distance and it will go to auto home. If i use raft the problem is solved but then the print just looks ugly afther removing the raft... And my English isn't good, just saying. Hope some one can help me!
I notice I only have gaps in the right side of the printer, I thought was the 3d model but when I print again the same model with other orientation the gaps always are in the right side of the machine.
ohh yeah thank you my probleme is abs black color
my problem is that the printer put 3 layers before start the part
Im a newbie so sorry ahead of time. I'm using an Ender 3, I just upgraded my bodon tube to a capricorn tube. This came with a new nozzle that is steel. I ran a gcode that never gave me issues before. Now in seeing huge amounts of stringing, and my part breaks apart in my hand with just a little pressure. Im using black PLA at 220 degrees. Am I running too hot? Too cold? Or could it be my nozzle is too far off the bed? No idea what is causing this.
Thanks for this... it helps explain why prints 'first thing in the morning' out in the 'cold shop' are struggling. My first reaction to a failed print is 'bed leveling' except that bed adhesions was great... so yup -- trash bag... ooooh... sexy.
what can I do to prevent shell separation?
Thanks for sharing :-)
Why would a printer al of a sudden start doing this with the same temp settings and same type of filament?
You know something about ABS?
If you are amish why do you use electric powered 3D printer?
For flexible filamets the fan is a MUST
Thnx!
This man stole JSchlatt's beard
Wolverine in his teens!
Hey, I am having an issue where my layers are being printed each time further to the left side... making almost a "motion shadow" of layers, anyone has any clue on how to fix this problem and what is causing it? Obs: My first 2 prints went great.
You're layer shifting, I had this issue before, you should start by adjusting the tension on your belts (should not be too tight but not too loose either!) And then you should start calibrating your extruder and your z offset if you have auto leveling . It's most likely over extrusion as my printer had the same issue where over extrusion forced the nozzle to dig into the plastic and thus forcing the x or y motor to skip which results in shifted layers. You should also calibrate your motor's drivers as they could be not providing sufficient amperage to the motors which doesn't allow them to run at their intended torque output.
Probably the X or Y belt is loose making the belt slip. Or it could be that the print head is loose on the carriage. But it's probably loose slipping belts.
It can also be the roller bearings need replacing
Hi Alec; For that 1.2 x 0.9 Layer print, can you please tell me what speed you printed it at. And what slicer do you use for it?
From the looks of things, I don't see many replies from @MatterHackers. Unfortunate.
Ya
Idk, but if it's good enough for wolverine it's good enough for me
Me realizing my printer defaults to 250 mm/s as you're saying that 100 is high. That might be what is doing it lol. (Especially since the printer shakes a bit from how fast it moves)
The only thing with separation issues here is your beard
Seriously, some filament has to cook at up to 500 degrees fahrenheit? That is insane!
Take a look at Carbon Fiber Reinforced PEEK filament from 3DXTech. Crazy stuff. $85 for 100g of the stuff. Prints at 380-410C, 130-150C bed and needs an enclosure that is also heated. insanely strong stuff and extremely hard to print.
I ain't putting no trash bag on my 3d printer bro
What about part cooling fan speed?
Leave it off or set very low if you are having layer separation issues.
I ve experimented lot of failure Layer Separation printing with 1 mm nozzle with PLA at 220 Celsius ..
now i understand better the problem could be the temp .. i ll try to reinstall the nozzle (now i put back the 0.4mm) and print at more temperature like you said 245 degrees , with low or zero fan (i need it to print some square empty shelf like this "www.thingiverse.com/thing:2745961"
mira si es el wos
I appreciate Abraham Lincoln.
Que hacés Menem
I don't have a 3d printer yet I'm watching guide for 3d printer..... What am I even doing
Trying to get subs
Your preparing for your future . I watched 3d printing videos for years before I bought one. Made it easy to get into when I got it
Side burns, that's why
💕👍
you look like the 21st president
Those sideburns man... I mean what century are you living in!
nothing wrong with some mighty chops bro
I am new to 3-D printers. I have my first on order right now. You’re talking about layer separation but you provide no example of what this is or what it looks like. I’m going to Google it to see an image. My recommendation is that if you’re talking about something, show us an example of what it is so we know exactly what you’re talking about. When I start printing after, watching your video, I hope to be able to identify what layer separation is and how to address it but I won’t be able to do that without an example. Thank you.
Best of luck with your first prints. There are lots of online support groups that can help too with whatever issue you come across. I agree though, he really should have showed an example.