I guess im randomly asking but does any of you know of a trick to log back into an instagram account..? I was stupid forgot the login password. I would appreciate any assistance you can offer me!
@Alessandro Daniel Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff now. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
Four minutes into this video and you just listed all the problems I have been having and how to fix them in a more concise way than any other videos I have seen!
Just came across your video after some recent sticking and warping issues. In the process of trying some of the things you mentioned. These are the kinds of videos i miss on RUclips, simple and down to earth explanation and enough detail to understand the reasons for each issue. Just liked and subscribed, thank you!
Wow i have watched a lot of RUclips videos, and your the first to put it all together so in makes sense, i'm going to watch a lot of your videos, thank you, i'm going to start from scratch and do it properly
I have spent about a week trying to get the bed level with awful results watching this has helped me so much and first layer is the best I've ever had. Thankyou so much for your advice
One of the first comments, how some ridges can also cause the first layer to not stick to the bed!!! I have had my E3V2 for about 2 weeks now, got bed properly leveled. Now dialing in my z-offset. Still learning what the perfect layer looks like. The filament being squished and then nozzle hitting one of the small ridges pulling filament away.......Gold!! Thank you, will definitely be a sub.
This finally seems to have solved many of my issues. I tried leveling several times based on other vid's, but none explained it quite this way. It seems to be working finally without the need for a raft. Thanks!
Thankyou. Because of this video I determined what my issue was and fixed it. Transparency was your key word that made me think my level was to close. I am an old tech that did in fact use feeler gauges to set the gap for points and that drag is to much for these printers:)
Could also be that you've got a build up of plastic behind the nozzle. If theres a gap between the Bowden and the nozzle, it can fill with hot plastic, and that can seep out. As well as cause a delay between when the filament is pushed by the extruder, and when the plastic comes out of the nozzle. And causing a delay from when the filament is retracted to when plastic stops coming out of the nozzle.
I've tried all of this, an more - and it didn't help. Now, you may not believe it, but the source of my problem was... the deep blue synthetic rag which I used to wipe my build plate with alcohol !... It kind of dissolved in it, and gradually covered the plate with a thin layer of blueish residue. When I'd figured out what's going on, I wiped it thoroughly with a cotton rag and alcohol (the rag turned light blue in the end), and now it works just fine. But... your tips still improved my experience with the printer a lot, so thank you very much, good sir !
Slicing software could really make use of this too. A first layer with lots of circles, corners etc, should automatically speed up on straight lines, but slow down at corners and things that could get pulled up if they are printed too fast. Might have to leave a feature idea on the cura site, see if they will test it out see if it's a useful idea.
Thanks for this. I think these tips might fix my first layer which goes blotchy and thin and then clicks over the hardened bumps until it evens out. I want perfection!!
Great tips on bed leveling!! Having an issue with bed bowing, going give the painters tape under the bed. Hope it helps!!! Thanks again for the great tips!!!! ^^^Ender 3 newbie ^^^
@@faded_specter6495 what ender version you use. If ender 3s replace your stock bed with glass bed. Change stock spring with silicone spacer (previously I use yellow spring but the result not so good). I upgrade stock board with skr board that has capabilities mesh bed leveling function(depend on your budget). Calibrate e-steps and level your bed. Then all run perfect.
My first layers have been pretty decent on my Ender 3 with PLA (aside from the fact that my bed is warped so I can't print large things) but I've been having lots of problems with getting flexible filament to stick. I'm gonna follow all your tips both with PLA and flexible. Thank you for this video!
Go really, really slow with your first layer. If your bed is warped and you don't have a bltouch but you do have marlin, then you can create a manual mesh. This will fix all your warped bed issues.
Thank you soo much you have been extremely informative on explaining the workings around sticking the first layer. I am having alot of issues getting my pla to stick. I will try everything I learned from your video when I get home. Thank you again VERY MUCH!!!!
If you are still struggling after all the tips you are not alone. Last year I printed over 180 parts using several reels of filament, no first layer problems at all. Now all of a sudden I've had to spend three days solid trying to fix several different fix problems with the first layer. Normally a heated bed helps adhesion but apparently not always. To fix a problem this week i had to turn the heated bed off. Never had to do that before.
Hello Sir, do you have a video showing what you meant with the painters tape? The drawing was wonderful, but I am just struggling to picture what you are saying on the printer. Thanks
I am printing a riff and the first go around nothing prints and then it is dotted then by the 3rd go round it sticks great and prints are coming out well
Thank you for the tip on the first layer having a transparent appearance, being an indicator of too low of an adjustment. I was experiencing the smashed layers, especially at the smaller extrusion sizes, to the point that the skirt is too small and smashed to remove. Going to use these tips to level it up less tight
So, I eased up on my bed height, but it caused no adhesion, and layer separation. I tightened it back up, as my initial leveling seems correct, but going past the standard print quality (on an ender 3 pro, stock magnetic bed) I get an outline "skirt" layer, that is practically impossible to remove without scraping and damaging the print surface
@@antwonfisher91set it slight high where the print is just loose. Then do a test print. after print starts you get a Tune option on your screen. Click on that and go to the last item on the menu. On some printers it's called baby steps. Click in it. Set the value to negative in steps of one. Then click on it and go back to display Usually by negative 2 or 3 you get the filament to stick to the bed.
Thanks for your great videos. One question. Do you recommend leveling the device with the plate and the extruder preheated? If so, what temperature do you recommend? It seems that every time I turn it off and turn it back on, it's all in need of leveling again and with what I believe I have, which is a bow on my plate, it is extremely difficult to do.
This week I've been printing with a new reel of PETG. Major issues with first layer again. Found that I needed the following first layer settings.. 0.25-0.3mm gap, 90C bed, 250c head and 150% flow rate, yes 150%! In addition I had to print at MORE than 20mm/s. If I tried to print the first layer slower I got under extrusion even at 150% flow rate. I think my extruder has issues at very slow extrusion rates. Weird as it calibrated fine. After first layer I found more normal settings of 0.2 layers, 80c bed 235C, 100% flow and 40-50mm/s work fine.
Great tips! May I ask which camera and lighting setup you’re using? I see you’re lit up very well but I don’t see any lights reflected in your glasses. Thanks.
Using a post-it note for bed leveling is a super nice tip/trick! I couldn't get a good looking first layer down to save my life, even with a glass bed. However, it was because for my U20 a credit card thick gap (a thick one or thin one) was too much. Now the first layer is as smooth as the glass its printed on.
The extruder clicking can also happen if the spring in the extruder is too strong. I upgraded my extruder to a metal one, it came with a spring that was too strong, so the gear was getting pushed into the filament causing it to dig into the filament and mess it up, them with retraction on, it would retract the same section of filament over and over and over repeatedly when doing small sections of infil. These grind spots on the filament were then tight inside the bowden tube and made the filament hard to push through, making the problem worse abd wirse up until the extruder can't push the filament at all and the print fails.
having a problem where its towards a corner but the furthest end of the corner is working, what would you say? (so its to say its curling before the furthest point but laying proper at the furthest point)
my extruder was loose and sagging forward, z hop helped a lot and made it go away for awhile but eventually i still had to figure it out. Also my bed was wobbly
Great video thanx. Helped alot. One Q: for Ender printers as all stated it is 200 steps and the lead screw is 8 mm pitch per revolution which makes the Z resolution : 0,04 mm. So when you adjust the initial layer, lets say for 0,2 mm.increased by 150%. So it makes 0,3 mm initial layer height. But this is out of the resolution. Shouldn’t it be a multiple of 0,04? eg. 0,28 or 0,32 mm? Does it make a big difference? Thanks in advance.
Done everything here and several other videos and still getting trash first layer. I think some filaments just do not do well with initial layer printing - silk being one of them in my short experience.
After watching I went back to my slicer changed my settings I am printing again to see if it worked with my delta style printer. I at first thought it was a printer problem but as per usual it was an operator problem..
So we are trying to print and using a raft. The sides are peaking up pretty bad messing everything up. We don’t have a heated bed and our house is pretty cold thanks to winter. Is this the probable cause? Also, has anyone tried fabric adhesive spray vs hair spray?
I have a question about my ender3 v3 se printer. I been having leveling issues or bed issues. I been having some great prints and now I did the firmware update on the screen and motherboard, with old firmware work great new firmware.the printer with new firmware it's like a Crack head. Can you please help me
So I assembled my printer,added a BL Touch.Leveled bed with paper,then finally used a dial indicator mounted to hotend,so I know it's level :-).I have my gap set with what I "assume" is right with the paper.But when I start a print,and the BL Touch resets Zero,isn't it defeating the gap that I had set with the knobs everytime?
I'm getting a distinct pattern of gaps when I try to 3d print a first layer test square on my Ender 3 pro. The gaps are printing in the same spots for the most part giving me a distinct pattern any ideas on how to fix this? The prints are adhering to the bed OK, and squish is good I think? I also re-leveled the bed countless times. The Ender3 has EZABL on it. And the printer did work sometimes before this. It’s like the filament is being turn off and on, but I can feel the filament moving at steady pace. Any help would be greatly appreciated. This is driving me nuts.
Ive got the ender 3 and I had a lot problems with my prints sticking to the bed and all sorts of those things. First I had my nozzle too close , then too far away....you really need to level it perfect to get good prints...I had been trying countless times too. After using this squeare bed level test below from thingiverse I never had any more issues with leveling the bed. If you print the square test you can change the level while it is printing and you can see what is going on because its making straight lines on all sides. So if you miss a piece from a line just go up a bit and wait for the nozzle to go back , it prints from start to end and back from end to start (so you got time to see if one side didnt print)..... when its nothing printing a full line on a side just move the knob down on that side and let it keep printing the test (doesnt matter you messed up a square). After it made all squares it goes back to start over the same thing, do the adjustment a second time and if you got all squares you are good to go. Here is the link : www.thingiverse.com/thing:3235018 I also thought after all those troubles "lets buy a glass bed that has to be straight and level" because the original bed can warp when you heat it up (I think I had a warped one). Since I got the glass bed everything became much easier but I gotta say Im using 3dlac (hair spray stuff) for adhesion and it works very well now. Now Im not waisting material anymore and my prints are quite good. But the settings and what slicer program you use does also have different outcomes , I tryed a model with 4 different slicer programs and it turned out that Cura slicer worked the best for most prints (its also the most easy and good working program in my opinion). Ive also added TL smoothers for the motors wich improved the print quality too (and the machine is less noisy). Also a question, did you check if your Z axis sensor is placed on the right height ? I think it will affect how accurate the machine is printing and also leveling the bed because the switch height isnt correctly if its all pushed down in Home position ;) , I did adjust the height of it and I had less problems after that. I did it by just moving the Z axis by hand when the machine was off , I moved it until the nozzle touched my bed (clean nozzle too), thats when I stopped moving it down Be sure it doesnt put pressure on the print bed ( so watch really good at the bed if it moves). Then I moved the little switch up until it made a click sound and tighten it. I noticed the little lever from the switch doesnt have to go down all the way to work correctly , the distance between going down completely and the click sound (when its working) is quite a lot in my opinion. After you've done this you need to level your bed with a piece of paper first and do the square test as last. Squish you say ??? I dont think so, if you watch it while its printing it drags the molten plastic from a short paper-thick distance , I could see it really good with the square test when it was on the right height. Also while it is printing I go to TUNE and change the FLOW higher or lower to see if the print is improving , also I sometimes change the overall printing speed by moving the round knob from the Ender in the default screen , I do it a bit by listining to the sound of the machine and watching what is happening to the print and judge by that if it needs to slow down a bit or not. You can hear the machine going smoother if you're on a good speed. I print all my PLA with 200C nozzle , 112 Flow , bed at 60C and all prints are good now (cura has build in basic preset for my ender 3). How are your prints at the moment ? (your message is 2 months old)
OK so I was watching this video because I kept getting blobs on my CR 10 mini and all I had to do was re-level my bed and I’ve been doing 3-D printing for six months. That’s the one thing I forget to do when I get frustrated is re-level the bed great video though thanks
So I've tried all this and I still can't get it I don't know what else to do I am new to the 3D printing world but I can print the prints that come on the sd card that comes with the ender 3 pro but as soon as I put a model I get and save off a slicer so I'm really lost if any of you have any help it is needed
Hi is there anyway I can purchase from you the SD card or a copy of the SD card I'm sorry I lost mine and there is no way I can level the bed with that test Print I really appreciate your help just tell me how much is it thank you just
@@pittsk60 This is my 3rd attempt to answer your response as my computer keeps erasing my response here. Thanks for trying to help with this problem. I now have a bigger problem first and it is with the x-axis motor gear moving in crazy ways so that the 'auto home' won't do it's correct pattern of movement. I think it might be that the stepper driver control panel, or maybe even a gcode, might be the problem . I have checked the wires and they seem ok. I am too busy with other things right now but hope to solve it later. Again thanks for your ideas.
I think i have a retraction issue with my printer but only on certain filament. on continuous flowing prints like the skirt or walls it does just fine but when it has to outline a bunch of places and or stop/retract the filament, it will stop flowing properly and then under extrude.
Thanks for vid, think I’ve been trying to get nozzle to close and then more extrusion for 1st layer causing stripe lift + my bed isn’t flat it’s higher in middle & tape around outside just makes everything higher with the hill in middle )-:
I am a little confused when it comes to the initial extrusion hight. Don't you want more extrusion when the nozzle is higher? Here you are saying 2x more at .1mm, 1/2 more at .2mm and even at .3mm.
I was also confused by this part. What is the setting for "intial extrusion percentage". I use prusaslicer and I easily found the setting for initial layer speed. I didnt know what setting you are talking about here for "intial extrusion".
This is vital info. So vital my man made a whole channel on it. Thanks!
Ikr
I guess im randomly asking but does any of you know of a trick to log back into an instagram account..?
I was stupid forgot the login password. I would appreciate any assistance you can offer me!
@Anakin Morgan Instablaster ;)
@Alessandro Daniel Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff now.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Alessandro Daniel It did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thank you so much you saved my ass :D
Four minutes into this video and you just listed all the problems I have been having and how to fix them in a more concise way than any other videos I have seen!
Identified my problem in the first 5 minutes. Transparent areas, clicking, and pulling previous line. You earned a subscriber!
Just followed your steps here and had the most beautiful first layer my machine has ever produced.
Just came across your video after some recent sticking and warping issues. In the process of trying some of the things you mentioned. These are the kinds of videos i miss on RUclips, simple and down to earth explanation and enough detail to understand the reasons for each issue. Just liked and subscribed, thank you!
I needed this video more than i need a water. Thank you mister
These tips are golden. I've finally got my perfect first layer after weeks of struggle. Thank you.
Wow i have watched a lot of RUclips videos, and your the first to put it all together so in makes sense, i'm going to watch a lot of your videos, thank you, i'm going to start from scratch and do it properly
I have spent about a week trying to get the bed level with awful results watching this has helped me so much and first layer is the best I've ever had. Thankyou so much for your advice
One of the first comments, how some ridges can also cause the first layer to not stick to the bed!!! I have had my E3V2 for about 2 weeks now, got bed properly leveled. Now dialing in my z-offset. Still learning what the perfect layer looks like.
The filament being squished and then nozzle hitting one of the small ridges pulling filament away.......Gold!! Thank you, will definitely be a sub.
This finally seems to have solved many of my issues. I tried leveling several times based on other vid's, but none explained it quite this way. It seems to be working finally without the need for a raft.
Thanks!
The more I watch such videos the more I learn. Struggling with first layer and found some nice tricks in this video. Thanks
Super thank. Very informative of important issue. First layer had been my most difficult problem with CR-10. Small things eventually matters ...
Thank you from france. Like a wheel on car you use the "cross" method to ajust. So simple.
3:05 thank you! The clicking is exactly what my problem was and the nozzle was just too close.
Thankyou. Because of this video I determined what my issue was and fixed it. Transparency was your key word that made me think my level was to close. I am an old tech that did in fact use feeler gauges to set the gap for points and that drag is to much for these printers:)
I wish I would have watched this 40hrs of frustration ago :). Great info!
My problem is that the filament already comes out while heating up so it is missing when printing the first layer.
Too hot nozzle temp, reduce by steps of 2 degree.
Could also be that you've got a build up of plastic behind the nozzle. If theres a gap between the Bowden and the nozzle, it can fill with hot plastic, and that can seep out. As well as cause a delay between when the filament is pushed by the extruder, and when the plastic comes out of the nozzle.
And causing a delay from when the filament is retracted to when plastic stops coming out of the nozzle.
I've tried all of this, an more - and it didn't help. Now, you may not believe it, but the source of my problem was... the deep blue synthetic rag which I used to wipe my build plate with alcohol !... It kind of dissolved in it, and gradually covered the plate with a thin layer of blueish residue. When I'd figured out what's going on, I wiped it thoroughly with a cotton rag and alcohol (the rag turned light blue in the end), and now it works just fine. But... your tips still improved my experience with the printer a lot, so thank you very much, good sir !
Thank you so much! I spent the past few hours wondering why my first layer kept coming out weird. But I got it fixed now and am printing now!
this explained so many questions for me, especially for the filament going transparent
Very useful video! I had an issue with cupping and never realized that i could use tape! thank you!
Slowing down the print solved my adhesion problems Thank you!
OMG this is so what I needed Thank You!
The initial first layer speed helped me so much. I had no idea this was a thing. Thank you!
Slicing software could really make use of this too.
A first layer with lots of circles, corners etc, should automatically speed up on straight lines, but slow down at corners and things that could get pulled up if they are printed too fast.
Might have to leave a feature idea on the cura site, see if they will test it out see if it's a useful idea.
I wanted to say thank you for your help your videos saved me hours of troubles xp
Thanks! First thing you talked about fixed my problem that never happens. Need to buy a lotto ticket.
Thanks for this. I think these tips might fix my first layer which goes blotchy and thin and then clicks over the hardened bumps until it evens out. I want perfection!!
Great tips on bed leveling!! Having an issue with bed bowing, going give the painters tape under the bed. Hope it helps!!! Thanks again for the great tips!!!! ^^^Ender 3 newbie ^^^
Thank you so much sir! Finally my Ender 3 can stick on the bed. I follow every step in your videos. You got my subscribed 👍
I’m having the same issue could you tell me what helped
@@faded_specter6495 what ender version you use. If ender 3s replace your stock bed with glass bed. Change stock spring with silicone spacer (previously I use yellow spring but the result not so good). I upgrade stock board with skr board that has capabilities mesh bed leveling function(depend on your budget). Calibrate e-steps and level your bed. Then all run perfect.
thank-you. valuable info, also it feels really good when I see people keeping a such a keen eye for what they do...
Totally didn't know about the clicking. Thought it was just a normal thing. Thank you
thanks, this is what i needed as new 3d starter
I could not understand what was wrong until I saw your video. Thanks!!
Thank you for this great explanation! I was chasing an issue with my prints and this video helped me fix it!
Thank you so much I have learn so much from you. Happy New Year 🎉
Happy new year!
Dropping it down to 50% helped me so much thank you 🙏
My first layers have been pretty decent on my Ender 3 with PLA (aside from the fact that my bed is warped so I can't print large things) but I've been having lots of problems with getting flexible filament to stick. I'm gonna follow all your tips both with PLA and flexible. Thank you for this video!
Go really, really slow with your first layer. If your bed is warped and you don't have a bltouch but you do have marlin, then you can create a manual mesh. This will fix all your warped bed issues.
Thank you soo much you have been extremely informative on explaining the workings around sticking the first layer. I am having alot of issues getting my pla to stick. I will try everything I learned from your video when I get home. Thank you again VERY MUCH!!!!
If you are still struggling after all the tips you are not alone. Last year I printed over 180 parts using several reels of filament, no first layer problems at all. Now all of a sudden I've had to spend three days solid trying to fix several different fix problems with the first layer. Normally a heated bed helps adhesion but apparently not always. To fix a problem this week i had to turn the heated bed off. Never had to do that before.
Excelent tip. It just addressed the issue I was having.
At 9:35, why .3mm total for (.2x150%) and (.3x100%), but only .2mm total for (.1x200%)? Shouldn't that be the same, .3mm (.1x300%)?
Thank you so much for your video. It helped me troubleshoot and make a great product. !!!!
Thank you a lot. This is appreciated.
Great video! Do you happen to have your Cura setting for download?
Thank you dude, just what I needed to know!! Love this 3D print community
In leveling on mega zero 2, it moves around corners counter-clockwise. Do i need to manually move to corners in sequence you said?
Hello Sir, do you have a video showing what you meant with the painters tape? The drawing was wonderful, but I am just struggling to picture what you are saying on the printer. Thanks
Never mind 3d printers, how did you make your intro ? , it's superb !
if you have a metal bed you want o heat the bed to the temp and give time to heat the full working area. then level while hot.
Cant find "Initial Layer Extrusion Width" is that "Initial Layer Line Width" or "Initial Layer Flow" on Cura 4.9 ?
Great video,thanks
This was useful, thanks a lot
thank you SO much mate
i was about to quit i had so many problems
I am printing a riff and the first go around nothing prints and then it is dotted then by the 3rd go round it sticks great and prints are coming out well
Thank you for the tip on the first layer having a transparent appearance, being an indicator of too low of an adjustment. I was experiencing the smashed layers, especially at the smaller extrusion sizes, to the point that the skirt is too small and smashed to remove. Going to use these tips to level it up less tight
So, I eased up on my bed height, but it caused no adhesion, and layer separation. I tightened it back up, as my initial leveling seems correct, but going past the standard print quality (on an ender 3 pro, stock magnetic bed) I get an outline "skirt" layer, that is practically impossible to remove without scraping and damaging the print surface
@@antwonfisher91set it slight high where the print is just loose. Then do a test print. after print starts you get a Tune option on your screen. Click on that and go to the last item on the menu. On some printers it's called baby steps. Click in it. Set the value to negative in steps of one. Then click on it and go back to display
Usually by negative 2 or 3 you get the filament to stick to the bed.
Thanks for your great videos. One question. Do you recommend leveling the device with the plate and the extruder preheated? If so, what temperature do you recommend? It seems that every time I turn it off and turn it back on, it's all in need of leveling again and with what I believe I have, which is a bow on my plate, it is extremely difficult to do.
Thank you man. Thank you.
what do i do when I bed level one side doesn't go down
Thank you for the tips, trying them now.
This week I've been printing with a new reel of PETG. Major issues with first layer again. Found that I needed the following first layer settings.. 0.25-0.3mm gap, 90C bed, 250c head and 150% flow rate, yes 150%! In addition I had to print at MORE than 20mm/s. If I tried to print the first layer slower I got under extrusion even at 150% flow rate. I think my extruder has issues at very slow extrusion rates. Weird as it calibrated fine. After first layer I found more normal settings of 0.2 layers, 80c bed 235C, 100% flow and 40-50mm/s work fine.
The initial layer on my Ender3 Neo starts smooth but ends up rough as hell. Any suggestions?
Great advice thank you
Thank you. Your explanations and instructions are great!
Really like the sticky note tip!!
Great tips! May I ask which camera and lighting setup you’re using? I see you’re lit up very well but I don’t see any lights reflected in your glasses. Thanks.
It's an older video, but lightboxes are a huge part of our setup. The key is to have less spot lights, and more softened fillers.
Using a post-it note for bed leveling is a super nice tip/trick! I couldn't get a good looking first layer down to save my life, even with a glass bed. However, it was because for my U20 a credit card thick gap (a thick one or thin one) was too much. Now the first layer is as smooth as the glass its printed on.
When I do my first layer is looks like this weird fade and I got these weird gaps
Is .4 just .3mm as well?
The extruder clicking can also happen if the spring in the extruder is too strong.
I upgraded my extruder to a metal one, it came with a spring that was too strong, so the gear was getting pushed into the filament causing it to dig into the filament and mess it up, them with retraction on, it would retract the same section of filament over and over and over repeatedly when doing small sections of infil.
These grind spots on the filament were then tight inside the bowden tube and made the filament hard to push through, making the problem worse abd wirse up until the extruder can't push the filament at all and the print fails.
Thank you very helpful
very good explanations thank you
.1mm what?? Layer height??
Just can’t seem to get the filament to extrude, have to physically push through to start then stops …HELP
That indicates nto me that you have a clog happening in the print head.
Cheers will have to try adjusting the temp and stepper
having a problem where its towards a corner but the furthest end of the corner is working, what would you say? (so its to say its curling before the furthest point but laying proper at the furthest point)
my extruder was loose and sagging forward, z hop helped a lot and made it go away for awhile but eventually i still had to figure it out. Also my bed was wobbly
I got an odd problem with Ender 3 pro. Either the filament wont stick or its so close to the bed I cant get it off the magnet bed.
Should I preheat the bed and nozzle on my Creality 10s?
Great video!
Great video thanx. Helped alot. One Q: for Ender printers as all stated it is 200 steps and the lead screw is 8 mm pitch per revolution which makes the Z resolution : 0,04 mm. So when you adjust the initial layer, lets say for 0,2 mm.increased by 150%. So it makes 0,3 mm initial layer height. But this is out of the resolution. Shouldn’t it be a multiple of 0,04? eg. 0,28 or 0,32 mm? Does it make a big difference? Thanks in advance.
will thread length on the nozzle affect the print
Done everything here and several other videos and still getting trash first layer. I think some filaments just do not do well with initial layer printing - silk being one of them in my short experience.
Cool info, THX :D do you preheat nozzle and bed before bed leveling?
After watching I went back to my slicer changed my settings I am printing again to see if it worked with my delta style printer. I at first thought it was a printer problem but as per usual it was an operator problem..
Great leveling tip. Thank you very much...this fixed my issues.
So we are trying to print and using a raft. The sides are peaking up pretty bad messing everything up. We don’t have a heated bed and our house is pretty cold thanks to winter. Is this the probable cause?
Also, has anyone tried fabric adhesive spray vs hair spray?
It seems you have figured out the problem. As far as adhesives go without a heated base they tend not to work at all.
Thank you
I have a question about my ender3 v3 se printer. I been having leveling issues or bed issues. I been having some great prints and now I did the firmware update on the screen and motherboard, with old firmware work great new firmware.the printer with new firmware it's like a Crack head. Can you please help me
So I assembled my printer,added a BL Touch.Leveled bed with paper,then finally used a dial indicator mounted to hotend,so I know it's level :-).I have my gap set with what I "assume" is right with the paper.But when I start a print,and the BL Touch resets Zero,isn't it defeating the gap that I had set with the knobs everytime?
So my problem is I can level and space my nozzle and the I send it home and the recheck and the level is off
My printer scratches the bed when trying to level the bed and my auto home is messed up
I'm getting a distinct pattern of gaps when I try to 3d print a first layer test square on my Ender 3 pro. The gaps are printing in the same spots for the most part giving me a distinct pattern any ideas on how to fix this?
The prints are adhering to the bed OK, and squish is good I think? I also re-leveled the bed countless times. The Ender3 has EZABL on it. And the printer did work sometimes before this.
It’s like the filament is being turn off and on, but I can feel the filament moving at steady pace.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. This is driving me nuts.
Ive got the ender 3 and I had a lot problems with my prints sticking to the bed and all sorts of those things.
First I had my nozzle too close , then too far away....you really need to level it perfect to get good prints...I had been trying countless times too.
After using this squeare bed level test below from thingiverse I never had any more issues with leveling the bed.
If you print the square test you can change the level while it is printing and you can see what is going on because its making straight lines on all sides.
So if you miss a piece from a line just go up a bit and wait for the nozzle to go back , it prints from start to end and back from end to start (so you got time to see if one side didnt print)..... when its nothing printing a full line on a side just move the knob down on that side and let it keep printing the test (doesnt matter you messed up a square).
After it made all squares it goes back to start over the same thing, do the adjustment a second time and if you got all squares you are good to go.
Here is the link :
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3235018
I also thought after all those troubles "lets buy a glass bed that has to be straight and level" because the original bed can warp when you heat it up (I think I had a warped one).
Since I got the glass bed everything became much easier but I gotta say Im using 3dlac (hair spray stuff) for adhesion and it works very well now.
Now Im not waisting material anymore and my prints are quite good.
But the settings and what slicer program you use does also have different outcomes , I tryed a model with 4 different slicer programs and it turned out that Cura slicer worked the best for most prints (its also the most easy and good working program in my opinion).
Ive also added TL smoothers for the motors wich improved the print quality too (and the machine is less noisy).
Also a question, did you check if your Z axis sensor is placed on the right height ? I think it will affect how accurate the machine is printing and also leveling the bed because the switch height isnt correctly if its all pushed down in Home position ;) , I did adjust the height of it and I had less problems after that.
I did it by just moving the Z axis by hand when the machine was off , I moved it until the nozzle touched my bed (clean nozzle too), thats when I stopped moving it down
Be sure it doesnt put pressure on the print bed ( so watch really good at the bed if it moves).
Then I moved the little switch up until it made a click sound and tighten it.
I noticed the little lever from the switch doesnt have to go down all the way to work correctly , the distance between going down completely and the click sound (when its working) is quite a lot in my opinion.
After you've done this you need to level your bed with a piece of paper first and do the square test as last.
Squish you say ??? I dont think so, if you watch it while its printing it drags the molten plastic from a short paper-thick distance , I could see it really good with the square test when it was on the right height.
Also while it is printing I go to TUNE and change the FLOW higher or lower to see if the print is improving , also I sometimes change the overall printing speed by moving the round knob from the Ender in the default screen , I do it a bit by listining to the sound of the machine and watching what is happening to the print and judge by that if it needs to slow down a bit or not.
You can hear the machine going smoother if you're on a good speed.
I print all my PLA with 200C nozzle , 112 Flow , bed at 60C and all prints are good now (cura has build in basic preset for my ender 3).
How are your prints at the moment ? (your message is 2 months old)
baklap141 I am using 210 degrees on the nozzle is that too high for pla?
baklap141 very informative. Thanks alot!
OK so I was watching this video because I kept getting blobs on my CR 10 mini and all I had to do was re-level my bed and I’ve been doing 3-D printing for six months. That’s the one thing I forget to do when I get frustrated is re-level the bed great video though thanks
So I've tried all this and I still can't get it I don't know what else to do I am new to the 3D printing world but I can print the prints that come on the sd card that comes with the ender 3 pro but as soon as I put a model I get and save off a slicer so I'm really lost if any of you have any help it is needed
excellent video
Hi is there anyway I can purchase from you the SD card or a copy of the SD card I'm sorry I lost mine and there is no way I can level the bed with that test Print I really appreciate your help just tell me how much is it thank you just
you can buy one from amazon
I do have a second problem and that is some ''spider webbing'' occurs when the nozzel jumps over to another part to print. Can this be fixed?
I may be wrong... I'm a newbie in the 3d printing world but from what I've been reading and watching your retraction value may need to be increased
@@pittsk60 This is my 3rd attempt to answer your response as my computer keeps erasing my response here. Thanks for trying to help with this problem. I now have a bigger problem first and it is with the x-axis motor gear moving in crazy ways so that the 'auto home' won't do it's correct pattern of movement. I think it might be that the stepper driver control panel, or maybe even a gcode, might be the problem . I have checked the wires and they seem ok. I am too busy with other things right now but hope to solve it later. Again thanks for your ideas.
I think i have a retraction issue with my printer but only on certain filament. on continuous flowing prints like the skirt or walls it does just fine but when it has to outline a bunch of places and or stop/retract the filament, it will stop flowing properly and then under extrude.
Thanks for vid, think I’ve been trying to get nozzle to close and then more extrusion for 1st layer causing stripe lift + my bed isn’t flat it’s higher in middle & tape around outside just makes everything higher with the hill in middle )-:
My first layer is fine the second is not sticking so lost
I am a little confused when it comes to the initial extrusion hight. Don't you want more extrusion when the nozzle is higher? Here you are saying 2x more at .1mm, 1/2 more at .2mm and even at .3mm.
I was also confused by this part. What is the setting for "intial extrusion percentage". I use prusaslicer and I easily found the setting for initial layer speed. I didnt know what setting you are talking about here for "intial extrusion".