I am brand new to 3D printing.. My bed leveling was a huge failure.. I'm so excited that I found this video.. By far the most thorough, and excellent tips! Video EXTREMELY well done, and I can't thank you enough. I find that a lot of videos the people are well versed in 3D printing and totally forget about us newbies who don't understand how to get from point a to point b.. and they leave out the steps in between!! You not only gave us the steps, but you shared the why behind it!!! Thank you so much! First time EVER watching a video content creator and subscribing by watching ONE video! Much success to you!
On 4 corner leveling, you can do it much quicker if you work on the diagonals. Make sure your build surface is perfectly flat, then adjust front left to back right, and front right to back left. Repeat as required. Try it. It resolves faster. The rest of this video is excellent advice. I use acetone to clean a COLD build serface.
Great video, the audio at the end does not affect the information you give. You explained the tramming so that even I could understand it. Thank you so much.
Your drawings perfectly illustrate what I believe is a design flaw in most every inexpensive 3D printer. As you say, each part of the frame must be 90 degrees to each other. However, most low-end 3D printers have little to no support for the X-axis gantry on one side of the printer. The end result is a gantry which inevitably sags on the unsupported side. A frame that is not squared, and/or a sagging X-axis gantry is often a major source of bed-levelling and printing problems. An excellent video. Thanks.
Very useful, very important points. Thanks for sharing. I watched many other videos before but they leave you with more questions than answers. This one was all I needed.
I'll say this. I do not regret upgrading to the silent motherboard. I remember hearing a circle being printed in my living room from my bedroom. Now all I hear is the fans. That would be my top tip, after you follow all of the advice in this video.
Instead of Alcohol i use a screen cleaner from Ifixit. The reason i do this is. Im a cellphone repair tech and ipads have a digitizer and a screen. That screen under the digitizer is super hard to keep clean. 91% alcohol leaves residue. The Ifixit screen cleaner leaves the surface perfectly clean with 0 residue. So i use alcohol 1st the i use the Ifixit screen cleaner on my bed and wow its perfect. i also use lint free wipes.
THANK YOU for the g.code! Saved my 13 hour print and me going crazy!!!! I have an auto-bed level fro my CR10 coming cause it seems my bed likes to not stay "happy"
if your bed changes level check that your spring are at least half compressed when level, otherwise move your Z limit switch down a few mms, or check that your X gantry wheels are not slipping on the Z axis.
I am adding a 2nd screw drive to prevent any sag that may happen, and that auto level to also help. But this code worked way faster then the other way of moving it by hand. Also upgraded the springs, just haven't arrived yet. So far after 8 hours it's still spot on
Thanks for making this video. I've been considering a Wham Bam magnetic tray, and this video has convinced me I need one. I've been struggling with a good bed-level process since I got my printer and the steps here got me through it - especially the "live level" - I'd never have thought to adjust on the fly, but my very next print I noticed some filament being pushed around by the extruder on the first layer - I adjusted the knobs closest to the issue, and immediately the problem disappeared and the lines were smooth and properly shaped. THANKS FOR THAT GREAT TIP!!!
A part I recommend for all machines is a micrometer z limit. I find that setting bed level using a feeler gauge instead of paper the. Doing slicer setting for offset and then last if you can bump your limit switch precisely you influence the actual nozzle. I just took s cheap micrometer mounted it to my bed then mounted the limit switch to the gantry. Lets you dial squish with out going back to slicer or tweaking all the screws run your level file turn micrometer run your part touches off your limit in thousandths
Thanks alot,finally managed to get decent bed level without problems,only seems I will have to add foil or tape on the center under glass,seems like there is small hole under bed,on corners im getting pretty the same tests,flat layers .Btw it's CR-10 v3 printer.
It's great you do so much to support your customers, I have had a few issues with the print sticking but I am confident Wham bam will help me get it right,
Wham Bam Systems probably you can add a link to a new video, so we can just click it and see the last part. By the way. Thank you for this great video!!
Thanks for the very informative video and the G-Code for bed leveling. I'm having some issues with my Ender 5 that this will likely solve. Much appreciated!
I've been having issues with beginning layer sticking, but only since I tried this glow in the dark filament. Hopefully this helps. Thanks for the link to level code.
What about step 4, setting the gap? This is the one thing I consistently have trouble with. Great video…one of the best bed leveling videos out there. But a bit disappointing that step was skipped.
Nice video. 1) Your .gcode sets Z to zero, yet you are actually calibrating the height to 0.1 mm using the 0.1 mm thick paper. ( G0 X92 Y126 Z0 ; Go to 2nd location ) You would do better to measure the paper thickness and set the Z in the leveling script to that value. ( G0 X92 Y126 Z0.1 ; Go to 2nd location ) 2) I like to peel up the single layer brim and use digital calipers to verify the print thickness each time. Knowing the adjustment screw pitch, often 0.5 mm, I can dial in the fraction of a mm correction to get the first layer thickness dead on. I put 5 marks on each adjustment wheel, so one mark per 0.1 mm.
Bed leveling should be made with heated bed because of the deformations that the heat causes to the aluminum plate and the glass itself. So if u dont do so u level the bed and this leveling is gonna be lost when the bed will be heated.
Sorry to hear that, the gcode lifts the nozzle before moving so that means your initial home was so far below the level of the build surface that some how it marred it.
I definitely prefer paper to feeler gauges, the reason is if your bed is on springs, the feeler gauges are slippery and you cannot tell if the friction is enough or if it is just pushing down the springs. with paper you can feel exactly how much drag there is
Very instructive :) The leveling part made me kinda grind, though. With 4 corners to adjust, you can't really "level" anything because it's totally wrong from a geometric point of view. Geometry tells us a plane is defined using THREE (3) points, 4 (which define a tetrahedron. Trying to "level" 4 corners is more "bending" than anything else. Proper leveling is only achieved with a 3-point system, not a 4-point which is inherently a design error.
You can get rid of the play on your rollers by tightening the eccentric nut on opposing rollers. To get your frame to be perfectly 90° and trammed you’re going to need to loosen some of the bolts, hold a square against the frame, and re-tighten, sometimes you can find some nice 90° triangular supports to hold at the junction of each hold them in place
I have had a Ender 3 for about a year and nothing I do helps me get the print to stick. I have leveled cleaned even used adhesive. I'm using PLA and I have changed my settings at lease 50 times with no improvement. Any idea what I can do before the printer goes in the trash?
I never managed to achieve optimal leveling, even though I do it like you show. The main reason is that after several passes and readjustments, inevitably one adjustment screw falls off. It is screwed so far off that it no longer has any grip and it is still not correct. Usually it is good enough. I aways print my smaller models on the opposing sind and that works.
Windsaw this means you need to move your z limit switch so your springs are compressed well when leveled. Tighten all springs to half compressed. Home your machine and note how far the nozzle is from the bed surface. Change your Z limit switch height till when you home your nozzle just about touches bed. Then run my leveling process.
@@WhamBamSystems I did that today. First I printed a z-axis endstop adapter to make the z limit adustable which it usually isn't. Anyway, that didn't solve the problem. I spent several hours trying. One interesting thing I noticed: Once I've gone through several adjustment cycles until it fits at least somewhat, I take off the clamps and notice that the base plate is now slightly bent diagonally. I checked the glass plate and the baseplate and both are exactly flat as long as no screws are in. Sorry, this is difficult to explain. I tried several ways to get this fixed: visually by manually moving the print nozzle, sometimes with clamps on, sometimes without. In the end, I always get the same result. It works somewhat, but not for big objects. I have now fixed the lose screws with tape so that they don't go off once the vibrations start. There is still plenty of thread sticking out at the bottom, but the screw doesn't get any grip.
@@petersolomon3505 No, nothing was obstructing it. Anyway, I think I have found a partial solution. At least one, that works better than everything else so far. First, I made sure that the baseplate was not bent and the glass lay flat on it. Then I used the controls to steer the nozzle not to the corners, but to the edges: middle left, middle right, etc. When I adjusted, I made sure to only use two neighbouring screws equally each time. Now there is still one corner not totally right, but it is good enough for now and I hesitate to use one screw on the corner too much.
I think I might have a tramming issue. It seems like no matter what I do I find it really difficult to get a good first layer and when I do get it printing fairly well I get elephants foot. Before this I recently had an issue where it would z bind on the early layers and just drag the nozzle through them for the first 3-5 layers. I mostly fixed it by loosening the excentric nuts but now there at the point just before they spin loosly and the gantry likes to fall without power at the slightest nudge. Tightening them any getts me issues again, though not as bad as the first time. Think I'll by myself a proper square and redo the frame. Edit: It's an ender 3 and I have the wam bam pex.
Please follow Luke Hatfield's guide to rework your machine if you need to. If you are getting a good first layer with elephant feet, this is a great first step. Then tune your slicer so first layer is 100% width but 60% height and it will adjust the flow rate to not put out too much material during first layer print.
I do not why, but this test file goes very bad - each round of setting position the extruder goes lower and lower. I've tried few times and it goes wrong each time.
that is strange, it works well for me and for all who have used it, did you change anything in the gcode? check to see if the Y distance is constant? maybe your (arm) X Gantry is dropping, check to see if rollers are tight
Moddok I have found each filament to have different requirements. But, I couldn't get anything to stick right, and figured out the following 2 things: 1 - I had both the nozzle and bed way too hot. 2 - my glass bed was dirty. After I thoroughly cleaned my glass bed with a small amount of dish soap on a foam pad, and lowered the temps, I'm getting nearly flawless prints. Oh, and I have the fan off for the first 4 layers. YMMV...
@@WhamBamSystems Sir, did make changes in Marlin code for power cut off and resuming print problems? I want to add features in my printer like SnapMaker printers, who have great power cut off and resuming print functionalities. Thanks
ISSUE WITH GCODE if you can help would be great, Ok so I level the bed and find all 4 corners have a gap of approx 3mm. I level and all perfect, THEN I rerun the GCODE and find it's off by another 3mm gap again. I keep repeating this and realise that the GCODE doesn't work in the sense it doesn't seem to take the Z probe offset into account when doing the G28. Also I'm using a BLTouch on a CR-10 V2 printer with stock firmware. While writing this I'm also wonder if making the Z probe offset = 0 and then leveling the bed to that will eliminate the need for that setting (Might have answered my own question!)
@@WhamBamSystems Ok just retried removing Z probe offset and same deal , weird. I'll try some other things with the G coding but definately something strange and unexpected. I have a funny feeling that it has something to do with the original firmware with the BLTouch hex upgrade... almost as if they add their own offset. I'll keep you posted
@@WhamBamSystems OK I learnt something new out of trial and error (and luckily no crashes). In the past I haven't relied on G28 alone as I have probes on both my printers and have always followed up with a G29 Bed levelling (on my Anet A8 and CR-10 V2) and the reason why I have never come across this before. So a G28 does not respect the Z probe offset, but the G29 does. After some testing I was curious for the option in the LCD "SET HOME OFFSETS". This makes the X Y Z current position ZERO. So if you put the X at 50 and Y at 50 and Z at 50, When you do a SET HOME OFFSET it makes that current position 50,50,50 to 0,0,0 which after you do a STORE SETTINGS this will be the new Zero Position even after a re-power and G28 and G29. So in short DON't Play with Z Probe Offset as this is used for the G29 bed levelling offset and what ever it was set to is still correct. Stock firmware steps before running the GCODE you have if after every test the zero position seems to space the nozzle with the sam gap of where you started from! 1) Do a "Home all" 2) Move Z Axis down till it feels good with a piece of paper (I had to get mine to -0.4) 3) Then Move Axis X to 0 (As the Home All puts it at 150,150 bed center) 4) Then Move Y to 0 5) Click on "SET HOME OFFSETS" and it should beep and save the new offsets 6) Click on "STORE SETTINGS" and it should beep and store all the current parameters into EEPROM 7) Re - Power and run the GCODE Hope this helps others and will hopefully invest in a Wham Bam plate for my CR10 when I can afford it later on as printing on a glass plate and glue is starting to get old!
Great video. Where would you put the shin if you did it? Between the heat Ben and The metallic adhesive bed or the metallic bed and the removable flex bed?
we stopped suggesting shims under the magnet due to too many user errors which would permanently damage the flatness of the magnet. Now we suggest adding above magnet if necessary
Not often if you have a Wham Bam flexible build system , it tends to not get knocked out of position during print removal, I just watch skirt layers and occasionally adjust on the fly. Without Wham Bam I would guess every 1-2 prints.
Been trying to print over a week now and still can't get bed level yet it's a nightmare and trying to copy what you do with the paper still does not help how do I know what is too tight or not tight enough from a video?
It’s too tight if you cannot pull and push paper under, too loose if it doesn’t have drag on paper, the leveling sequenze gets you 80% there, then the live level during printing of skirt layers should get you tuned to the exact right gap. What filament are you using ? What build surface? What temp settings?
Maybe, maybe not. for me it doesn't I had a warped bed from the factory and thought the glass would fix it but I had a depression in the middle and had to shim it with foil to get it flat.
Geo Magicien that’s just the nature of the 3M tape. They are microscopic and do not affect the surface level. You see it so much as the PEX is transparent
send me an email technical@whambamsystems.com and take a photo of you measuring the heated bed X and Y edge to edge and I can tell you what we have or can do for you!
hello I need your help ive got cr10s ok and every time I print, I get warping is that means my Nozzle is too hot I set mine 219c or is my Heat bed is too hot, I set mine too 60c please help thanks
What filament? using PEX? If using our PEX bed must be 70, if PLA hot end should be about 200. Squish first layer very much and no part fan for first 3-5 layers
Saying "make sure everything's square" is not super helpful, especially if something isn't. The Ender might have some adjustments for frame squareness, but neither of mine do.
sorry if it isnt super helpful, but how to square up a frame is a whole video in itself, those that understand what to do dont need my advice, and if there is anyone out there that would like more info I can make a video on this thanks
Hi, I'm new to 3D printing and having difficulty with bed leveling and prints sticking to my bed. I have successfully printed the test cat on the ender 5 pro, but when I changed filament to a cctree pla filament,for some reason its coming out very dry and transport and poor bed adhesion. I watched alot of videos and alot of recommendations pertaining to : bed leveling, temperature, speeds;etc. Printing at 0.12mm speed st 60mm, temp at 205 and bed temp at 60. Going to try your method to levellong my bed. Will your ender 3 Gcode work on the ender 5 pro? Sorry if its a silly question. Just wanted to clarify. Thank you.
Hello, it should work, I think the pro has the same bed, you can run the gcode and visually see if it stops above levelling knobs. get your first layer squish well. and when in doubt try a different filament
Will pieces of foil help fix glass that's lower in the middle? I used your leveling gcode and I have the height perfect at all 4 corners but then in the middle the paper slides around effortlessly. I've tried printing and nothing sticks in the middle of my bed
you can try foil under the glass, but if the glass is not flat that is a big problem. was this a glass bed that came with the printer? If you like printing on glass get floated glass (or a mirror) this is the flattest glass possible.
I did everything you do but when I print my first layer the Z azis backs off to at least 1mm gap between the nozzle & bed. I can't figure out what's wrong or how to fix it.
@@WhamBamSystems I have an Ender 5 plus with a BL touch that I wish I didn't have. It seems to complicate everything else. Auto leveling is shut off in the firmware.
I must be beyond a fool. I cant do it. i simply can not do it. I dont know if i have a fault machine or what but i swear to god ive done about 50 fucking laps and not one corner feels the same as the other with the paper method... no two corners are alike... I SOMETIMES reach a point when i can do a lap without changing anything but if you so much as cough in the same room as it, it just goes uneven again. everything is tight, the frame is solid, the head doesnt wobble, the plate is solid, wires arent catching on anything as it moves.... I go to do a print and the first layer is uneven as shit.... so i go back to the paper method... doing my laps that never end... i finally think ive got it, go to print and... same thing. so i go back to leveling the bed and... oh look, they;re all wildly different heights again. im losing my fucking mind.
are your springs fully extended? this would cause an easy movement, are you sure your X gantry is not moving off alignment? did you check your bed is flat with a ruler on edge from corner to corner? Happy to work through solution searching by phone with you if you like.
@@WhamBamSystems OK, tested it last night, had to run it 5 or 6 times, I guess My eye levelling was crooked since I lowered totally the bed as wel as the limit switch since I had warping problems, I came back to the basics. After a couple runs (and 2 heat preparations) I printed out and it was A-OK. One suggestion though, I don't know if it's timed in the microcode but I would suggest you bypass the cooling after the tests to keep them heated until user decides otherwise. But CR-10 worked fine with My Ender 3 Max Thanks !!
as for landing over the levelling Knobs, I didn't pay attention, I was mostly wanting to print a file needed since a couple days. but I`ll try to figure that out later in 2 weeks since I am off for vacations tomorrow.
@@WhamBamSystems kool kool kool i thanks i been up since 7am and Cant get anything working here been on tube all day and noone have good setting for cura 4.5 do you have setting you allway use the work any settings will help thanks
Sorry to hear your print issues, I would be happy to help you if you have any questions, but unfortunately I don’t use cura, I use Simplify3d but could send you my settings if you like? I also recommend getting into an Anet Facebook group and getting advice, they know your printer. You should start with PLA, what’s your bed surface? Are you getting first layer to go down smooth and squished?
@@WhamBamSystems at first i got a good layer then after that per crap i will try facebook group and i heard simplify cost ,, thanks Does your settings work with cura
A ender3 are not a high end machine. I wouldn't wast my time and energy on it with one lead screw on the z it will never be bang on no matter what you try. It's a printer for kids to have fun on.
you do also wrong. you should not use paper for leeling that dosent make sene. I alsway have perfect first layer. level bed need be match for g-code what nozol you use and what first leyer is setup. Paper is one hight but in example firts layer is 0.1 or another project 0.35 that make disfrends. that why methods on paper is nosens and is just not thinkg copy of others
I am sorry but I dont understand your message. I believe paper is far superior to metal feeler gauges because you can feel the drag and resistance. With metal it slips so its hard to tell, and when you have it tight it may also even compress springs and give a false reading. You can get different thicknesses of paper to test which works best for which filament. I also recommend a live level after the paper level to fine tune, you might find that you will turn your wheels an 1/8 turn to dial it in after the paper level./
I am brand new to 3D printing.. My bed leveling was a huge failure.. I'm so excited that I found this video.. By far the most thorough, and excellent tips! Video EXTREMELY well done, and I can't thank you enough. I find that a lot of videos the people are well versed in 3D printing and totally forget about us newbies who don't understand how to get from point a to point b.. and they leave out the steps in between!! You not only gave us the steps, but you shared the why behind it!!! Thank you so much! First time EVER watching a video content creator and subscribing by watching ONE video! Much success to you!
thank you so much for saying so, I am happy it helped!
I am too but I've been trying for a week
On 4 corner leveling, you can do it much quicker if you work on the diagonals. Make sure your build surface is perfectly flat, then adjust front left to back right, and front right to back left. Repeat as required. Try it. It resolves faster. The rest of this video is excellent advice. I use acetone to clean a COLD build serface.
Great video, the audio at the end does not affect the information you give. You explained the tramming so that even I could understand it. Thank you so much.
thank you sir, that is very appreciated!
Your drawings perfectly illustrate what I believe is a design flaw in most every inexpensive 3D printer. As you say, each part of the frame must be 90 degrees to each other. However, most low-end 3D printers have little to no support for the X-axis gantry on one side of the printer. The end result is a gantry which inevitably sags on the unsupported side. A frame that is not squared, and/or a sagging X-axis gantry is often a major source of bed-levelling and printing problems. An excellent video. Thanks.
Thank you, and yes, the X gantry sagging is a big issue to be dealt with!
Very useful, very important points. Thanks for sharing. I watched many other videos before but they leave you with more questions than answers. This one was all I needed.
Thank you for saying so, and happy it helped!
i wish I had seen this video 3 months ago BEFORE i started printing!!!! pay attention to this guy noobies!!!!! he is 100% right!
we are so happy it helped, thanks for the kind words. Please share the link on forums so other noobies may find it!
This is one of the best informative videos regarding bed leveling. Thank you so much good sir.
Thank you for the kind words!
I'll say this. I do not regret upgrading to the silent motherboard. I remember hearing a circle being printed in my living room from my bedroom. Now all I hear is the fans. That would be my top tip, after you follow all of the advice in this video.
love the semi automatic gcode. thanks for making it available!!
That gcode is a lifesaver. Thank you!
Works great with the electronic tire tread gauge mod.
thank you!
My printer bed is level as I can be , the first layer is utter perfection now
Great to hear!
Instead of Alcohol i use a screen cleaner from Ifixit. The reason i do this is. Im a cellphone repair tech and ipads have a digitizer and a screen. That screen under the digitizer is super hard to keep clean. 91% alcohol leaves residue. The Ifixit screen cleaner leaves the surface perfectly clean with 0 residue. So i use alcohol 1st the i use the Ifixit screen cleaner on my bed and wow its perfect. i also use lint free wipes.
THANK YOU for the g.code! Saved my 13 hour print and me going crazy!!!! I have an auto-bed level fro my CR10 coming cause it seems my bed likes to not stay "happy"
so happy we could help!
if your bed changes level check that your spring are at least half compressed when level, otherwise move your Z limit switch down a few mms, or check that your X gantry wheels are not slipping on the Z axis.
I am adding a 2nd screw drive to prevent any sag that may happen, and that auto level to also help. But this code worked way faster then the other way of moving it by hand. Also upgraded the springs, just haven't arrived yet. So far after 8 hours it's still spot on
Thanks for making this video. I've been considering a Wham Bam magnetic tray, and this video has convinced me I need one. I've been struggling with a good bed-level process since I got my printer and the steps here got me through it - especially the "live level" - I'd never have thought to adjust on the fly, but my very next print I noticed some filament being pushed around by the extruder on the first layer - I adjusted the knobs closest to the issue, and immediately the problem disappeared and the lines were smooth and properly shaped. THANKS FOR THAT GREAT TIP!!!
HCarter111 you are welcome! Ver happy to have helped!
*You need a really clean surface* Proceeds to touch the damn thing all over Haha
A part I recommend for all machines is a micrometer z limit. I find that setting bed level using a feeler gauge instead of paper the. Doing slicer setting for offset and then last if you can bump your limit switch precisely you influence the actual nozzle. I just took s cheap micrometer mounted it to my bed then mounted the limit switch to the gantry. Lets you dial squish with out going back to slicer or tweaking all the screws run your level file turn micrometer run your part touches off your limit in thousandths
Most technically impressive explanation on levelling. Subbed! Kudos
Mickey Mice Thank you very much, appreciate the kind words. I hope it helps
@@WhamBamSystems you have helped me more than I have to you. Thanks Master!
Just received my wham Bam today DHL for my new Ender 5.
Thanks alot,finally managed to get decent bed level without problems,only seems I will have to add foil or tape on the center under glass,seems like there is small hole under bed,on corners im getting pretty the same tests,flat layers .Btw it's CR-10 v3 printer.
Glad it helped!
Wow, this is great! Thanks for the video!
Johnny J you are welcome!
It's great you do so much to support your customers, I have had a few issues with the print sticking but I am confident Wham bam will help me get it right,
Thank you, do write to us at technical@whambamsystems.com for personal help and support, I am sure we can get you printing 100%
Just got my ender 3 and I was struggling with my bed and this helped a lot 👍🏼
Super! Always nice to hear!
Very helpful, thank you. Super smooth print at the end there. Looking forward to getting my build plate kits.
Thank you for you nice comments, you are going to love them thanks, and welcome to the Wham Bam Community!
Thanks
Hello everyone, sorry about the audio on the last bit, trying to find out how to eliminate or fix it without breaking the links!
Wham Bam Systems probably you can add a link to a new video, so we can just click it and see the last part.
By the way. Thank you for this great video!!
Thanks for the very informative video and the G-Code for bed leveling. I'm having some issues with my Ender 5 that this will likely solve. Much appreciated!
thank you for the kind words, happy I could help!
I've been having issues with beginning layer sticking, but only since I tried this glow in the dark filament. Hopefully this helps.
Thanks for the link to level code.
got some glow filament doing the same thing.... never had issues that werent my fault before this glow stuff
What about step 4, setting the gap? This is the one thing I consistently have trouble with. Great video…one of the best bed leveling videos out there. But a bit disappointing that step was skipped.
Look at 9:50 onward
Great tips, thank you. I picked up some toughened glass from my local glazier, cut to size with polished edges. Nice!
thank you for the kind words, happy it helps!
OMG this helped me soo much, thank you
Thank you for saying so!
Thanks for the Bed leveling gcode for the Ender 3!
you are welcome!
Nice video. 1) Your .gcode sets Z to zero, yet you are actually calibrating the height to 0.1 mm using the 0.1 mm thick paper. ( G0 X92 Y126 Z0 ; Go to 2nd location ) You would do better to measure the paper thickness and set the Z in the leveling script to that value. ( G0 X92 Y126 Z0.1 ; Go to 2nd location ) 2) I like to peel up the single layer brim and use digital calipers to verify the print thickness each time. Knowing the adjustment screw pitch, often 0.5 mm, I can dial in the fraction of a mm correction to get the first layer thickness dead on. I put 5 marks on each adjustment wheel, so one mark per 0.1 mm.
Thanks for sharing your gcodes, it saves me tons of time!
You are welcome, let me know how they work for you!
@@WhamBamSystems they work just perfect with my Ender 3 Pro : )
Why is it that all these videos seem to skip the initial tightening of the bed wheels?
Thank you very much for this tutorial and the code.
Deon Holtzhausen
You are very welcome I’m happy it was helpful
Thanks for the gcode!
You are welcome!
WHAM BAM THANK YOU MA'AM
you are welcome!
Is there a way to LOCK your 4 bead leaving wheels in place when you have the correct leveling possitions?
Bed leveling should be made with heated bed because of the deformations that the heat causes to the aluminum plate and the glass itself. So if u dont do so u level the bed and this leveling is gonna be lost when the bed will be heated.
FOGLIA NERA GRAPHICS it’s at 16:19 , very important
@@WhamBamSystems :)
used this G code, nozzle permanently gouged my magnetic print bed. Guess I have to buy a new one
Sorry to hear that, the gcode lifts the nozzle before moving so that means your initial home was so far below the level of the build surface that some how it marred it.
@@WhamBamSystems no worries. I planned to get a spring steel bed anyway. When do you get your 235x235 back in stock??
@@robhopper5729 should always be in stock, whambam3d.com/products/235-x-235-kit-with-pre-installed-pex-build-surface
Awesome alignment tips! Thank you!
thank you for the kind words!
Go get a dial indicator and feeler gauge
I definitely prefer paper to feeler gauges, the reason is if your bed is on springs, the feeler gauges are slippery and you cannot tell if the friction is enough or if it is just pushing down the springs. with paper you can feel exactly how much drag there is
Very instructive :)
The leveling part made me kinda grind, though. With 4 corners to adjust, you can't really "level" anything because it's totally wrong from a geometric point of view.
Geometry tells us a plane is defined using THREE (3) points, 4 (which define a tetrahedron. Trying to "level" 4 corners is more "bending" than anything else. Proper leveling is only achieved with a 3-point system, not a 4-point which is inherently a design error.
You can get 3 point conversion kits for the ender 3.
All good,but how to fix frame to precise 90degrees and get rid of that play on rollers?
You can get rid of the play on your rollers by tightening the eccentric nut on opposing rollers. To get your frame to be perfectly 90° and trammed you’re going to need to loosen some of the bolts, hold a square against the frame, and re-tighten, sometimes you can find some nice 90° triangular supports to hold at the junction of each hold them in place
thanks for you g-code, and nice video too. Thnaks
You are welcome, thanks for the kind words
I have had a Ender 3 for about a year and nothing I do helps me get the print to stick. I have leveled cleaned even used adhesive. I'm using PLA and I have changed my settings at lease 50 times with no improvement. Any idea what I can do before the printer goes in the trash?
Thanks for the video and g code
you are very welcome!
I never managed to achieve optimal leveling, even though I do it like you show.
The main reason is that after several passes and readjustments, inevitably one adjustment screw falls off. It is screwed so far off that it no longer has any grip and it is still not correct.
Usually it is good enough. I aways print my smaller models on the opposing sind and that works.
Windsaw this means you need to move your z limit switch so your springs are compressed well when leveled.
Tighten all springs to half compressed.
Home your machine and note how far the nozzle is from the bed surface.
Change your Z limit switch height till when you home your nozzle just about touches bed. Then run my leveling process.
@@WhamBamSystems I did that today. First I printed a z-axis endstop adapter to make the z limit adustable which it usually isn't.
Anyway, that didn't solve the problem. I spent several hours trying. One interesting thing I noticed: Once I've gone through several adjustment cycles until it fits at least somewhat, I take off the clamps and notice that the base plate is now slightly bent diagonally. I checked the glass plate and the baseplate and both are exactly flat as long as no screws are in.
Sorry, this is difficult to explain. I tried several ways to get this fixed: visually by manually moving the print nozzle, sometimes with clamps on, sometimes without.
In the end, I always get the same result. It works somewhat, but not for big objects.
I have now fixed the lose screws with tape so that they don't go off once the vibrations start. There is still plenty of thread sticking out at the bottom, but the screw doesn't get any grip.
Sounds like something is obstructing the bed from going up or down. Check under the bed if it’s bottoming out?
@@petersolomon3505 No, nothing was obstructing it.
Anyway, I think I have found a partial solution. At least one, that works better than everything else so far.
First, I made sure that the baseplate was not bent and the glass lay flat on it. Then I used the controls to steer the nozzle not to the corners, but to the edges: middle left, middle right, etc. When I adjusted, I made sure to only use two neighbouring screws equally each time.
Now there is still one corner not totally right, but it is good enough for now and I hesitate to use one screw on the corner too much.
Best levelling video out there! Thank you for the code too. Cheers 👍😎🇦🇺
Thank you kindly!
Might need to re-record the last bit or do a voice-over. Audio is messed up. You could even cut it and just put a picture of the "finished" print.
Thank you Sir
Manie de Bruin you are welcome
Perfect
Thank you!
Hi, thanks for this great video, I'm new to 3D so any help is helpfull, but I can't find the file of your's circle test print?
Hi, you can print anything you like as a test, the circle was just a project I had open, make sure to do live leveling with skirts
Do you have a link for your tool tray? Thanks
I think I might have a tramming issue. It seems like no matter what I do I find it really difficult to get a good first layer and when I do get it printing fairly well I get elephants foot. Before this I recently had an issue where it would z bind on the early layers and just drag the nozzle through them for the first 3-5 layers. I mostly fixed it by loosening the excentric nuts but now there at the point just before they spin loosly and the gantry likes to fall without power at the slightest nudge. Tightening them any getts me issues again, though not as bad as the first time.
Think I'll by myself a proper square and redo the frame.
Edit: It's an ender 3 and I have the wam bam pex.
Please follow Luke Hatfield's guide to rework your machine if you need to. If you are getting a good first layer with elephant feet, this is a great first step. Then tune your slicer so first layer is 100% width but 60% height and it will adjust the flow rate to not put out too much material during first layer print.
@@WhamBamSystems Thanks, I'll give that a try then.
I do not why, but this test file goes very bad - each round of setting position the extruder goes lower and lower. I've tried few times and it goes wrong each time.
that is strange, it works well for me and for all who have used it, did you change anything in the gcode? check to see if the Y distance is constant? maybe your (arm) X Gantry is dropping, check to see if rollers are tight
do you use cura? if so, would you publish your profile? the outcome looks awesome. mine is just crap :(
and whats that bed-plate?
Moddok
I have found each filament to have different requirements. But, I couldn't get anything to stick right, and figured out the following 2 things:
1 - I had both the nozzle and bed way too hot.
2 - my glass bed was dirty.
After I thoroughly cleaned my glass bed with a small amount of dish soap on a foam pad, and lowered the temps, I'm getting nearly flawless prints.
Oh, and I have the fan off for the first 4 layers.
YMMV...
Great video👍🏾
Thank you sir!
@@WhamBamSystems Sir, did make changes in Marlin code for power cut off and resuming print problems? I want to add features in my printer like SnapMaker printers, who have great power cut off and resuming print functionalities.
Thanks
Sorry. Not yet a marlin pro
ISSUE WITH GCODE if you can help would be great, Ok so I level the bed and find all 4 corners have a gap of approx 3mm. I level and all perfect, THEN I rerun the GCODE and find it's off by another 3mm gap again. I keep repeating this and realise that the GCODE doesn't work in the sense it doesn't seem to take the Z probe offset into account when doing the G28. Also I'm using a BLTouch on a CR-10 V2 printer with stock firmware. While writing this I'm also wonder if making the Z probe offset = 0 and then leveling the bed to that will eliminate the need for that setting (Might have answered my own question!)
Sam Ferlauto you may have gotten it! I don’t use this with a sensor but makes sense
@@WhamBamSystems Ok just retried removing Z probe offset and same deal , weird. I'll try some other things with the G coding but definately something strange and unexpected. I have a funny feeling that it has something to do with the original firmware with the BLTouch hex upgrade... almost as if they add their own offset. I'll keep you posted
@@WhamBamSystems OK I learnt something new out of trial and error (and luckily no crashes). In the past I haven't relied on G28 alone as I have probes on both my printers and have always followed up with a G29 Bed levelling (on my Anet A8 and CR-10 V2) and the reason why I have never come across this before.
So a G28 does not respect the Z probe offset, but the G29 does. After some testing I was curious for the option in the LCD "SET HOME OFFSETS". This makes the X Y Z current position ZERO. So if you put the X at 50 and Y at 50 and Z at 50, When you do a SET HOME OFFSET it makes that current position 50,50,50 to 0,0,0 which after you do a STORE SETTINGS this will be the new Zero Position even after a re-power and G28 and G29. So in short DON't Play with Z Probe Offset as this is used for the G29 bed levelling offset and what ever it was set to is still correct. Stock firmware steps before running the GCODE you have if after every test the zero position seems to space the nozzle with the sam gap of where you started from!
1) Do a "Home all"
2) Move Z Axis down till it feels good with a piece of paper (I had to get mine to -0.4)
3) Then Move Axis X to 0 (As the Home All puts it at 150,150 bed center)
4) Then Move Y to 0
5) Click on "SET HOME OFFSETS" and it should beep and save the new offsets
6) Click on "STORE SETTINGS" and it should beep and store all the current parameters into EEPROM
7) Re - Power and run the GCODE
Hope this helps others and will hopefully invest in a Wham Bam plate for my CR10 when I can afford it later on as printing on a glass plate and glue is starting to get old!
Great video. Where would you put the shin if you did it? Between the heat Ben and The metallic adhesive bed or the metallic bed and the removable flex bed?
we stopped suggesting shims under the magnet due to too many user errors which would permanently damage the flatness of the magnet. Now we suggest adding above magnet if necessary
If only my Ender 3 behaved as nice as yours. 🤔
Awesome video thank you! May I ask how often you do this leveling Technik? Thank you
Not often if you have a Wham Bam flexible build system , it tends to not get knocked out of position during print removal, I just watch skirt layers and occasionally adjust on the fly. Without Wham Bam I would guess every 1-2 prints.
Been trying to print over a week now and still can't get bed level yet it's a nightmare and trying to copy what you do with the paper still does not help how do I know what is too tight or not tight enough from a video?
It’s too tight if you cannot pull and push paper under, too loose if it doesn’t have drag on paper, the leveling sequenze gets you 80% there, then the live level during printing of skirt layers should get you tuned to the exact right gap. What filament are you using ? What build surface? What temp settings?
15:45 You made a record can it play music :)
Amazing tutorial. I hope I didn't ruin my bed by twisting the spring too much on one side. :|
thank you! I hope so too!
Thanks worked a treat.
do you have a stl file for the bed test? thanks. oh and by the way great job :)
Great video👍 how do I get the the geodes?
Thanks, they are in the description as thingiverse link
Question, if you use glass on the bed. Will that offset the small warp in a bed?
Maybe, maybe not. for me it doesn't I had a warped bed from the factory and thought the glass would fix it but I had a depression in the middle and had to shim it with foil to get it flat.
What magnetic plate are you using?
Marco Rivadeneira Wham Bam flexible build system. Www.whambamsystems.com
so much attention to detail, yet so many air bubbles on the flex plate...
Geo Magicien that’s just the nature of the 3M tape. They are microscopic and do not affect the surface level. You see it so much as the PEX is transparent
What is the bed
Late that you use? Is it magnetic?
yes www.whambamsystems.com
Need one for my Tronxy XY2-Pro please
send me an email technical@whambamsystems.com and take a photo of you measuring the heated bed X and Y edge to edge and I can tell you what we have or can do for you!
No audio.
hello I need your help ive got cr10s ok and every time I print, I get warping is that means my Nozzle is too hot I set mine 219c or is my Heat bed is too hot, I set mine too 60c please help thanks
What filament? using PEX? If using our PEX bed must be 70, if PLA hot end should be about 200.
Squish first layer very much and no part fan for first 3-5 layers
@@WhamBamSystems its pla, but thanks for the reply
@@Explore531 ok, follow my settings 70 bed, 200 hot end, no part fan first 5 layers, squish first layer very much.
@@WhamBamSystems thanks IL let you know how it goes,
any chance you have a link for that magnetic bed?
Sure, here you go: whambam3d.com/products/add-on-magnetic-base?variant=19703842537570
I have a magnet hotbed sunyiming523@gmail.com
Saying "make sure everything's square" is not super helpful, especially if something isn't. The Ender might have some adjustments for frame squareness, but neither of mine do.
sorry if it isnt super helpful, but how to square up a frame is a whole video in itself, those that understand what to do dont need my advice, and if there is anyone out there that would like more info I can make a video on this
thanks
Alternatively you could use the built-in marlin LCD leveling feature at leased marlin 2.0+
This does not work with Bl touch?
Clancey Aggen yes it does
Hi, I'm new to 3D printing and having difficulty with bed leveling and prints sticking to my bed. I have successfully printed the test cat on the ender 5 pro, but when I changed filament to a cctree pla filament,for some reason its coming out very dry and transport and poor bed adhesion.
I watched alot of videos and alot of recommendations pertaining to : bed leveling, temperature, speeds;etc.
Printing at 0.12mm speed st 60mm, temp at 205 and bed temp at 60.
Going to try your method to levellong my bed. Will your ender 3 Gcode work on the ender 5 pro? Sorry if its a silly question. Just wanted to clarify.
Thank you.
Hello, it should work, I think the pro has the same bed, you can run the gcode and visually see if it stops above levelling knobs. get your first layer squish well. and when in doubt try a different filament
Will pieces of foil help fix glass that's lower in the middle?
I used your leveling gcode and I have the height perfect at all 4 corners but then in the middle the paper slides around effortlessly.
I've tried printing and nothing sticks in the middle of my bed
you can try foil under the glass, but if the glass is not flat that is a big problem. was this a glass bed that came with the printer? If you like printing on glass get floated glass (or a mirror) this is the flattest glass possible.
@@WhamBamSystems ya, it came with my ender 3 v2
I did everything you do but when I print my first layer the Z azis backs off to at least 1mm gap between the nozzle & bed. I can't figure out what's wrong or how to fix it.
RAMTEK are you using auto bed leveling? What machine?
@@WhamBamSystems I have an Ender 5 plus with a BL touch that I wish I didn't have. It seems to complicate everything else. Auto leveling is shut off in the firmware.
RAMTEK so are you adjusting gap with leveling knobs or baby steps?
@@WhamBamSystems Knobs
@@WhamBamSystems I've heard the term "baby steps" but I don't know where to find the command or how to use it.
I must be beyond a fool. I cant do it. i simply can not do it. I dont know if i have a fault machine or what but i swear to god ive done about 50 fucking laps and not one corner feels the same as the other with the paper method... no two corners are alike... I SOMETIMES reach a point when i can do a lap without changing anything but if you so much as cough in the same room as it, it just goes uneven again. everything is tight, the frame is solid, the head doesnt wobble, the plate is solid, wires arent catching on anything as it moves.... I go to do a print and the first layer is uneven as shit.... so i go back to the paper method... doing my laps that never end... i finally think ive got it, go to print and... same thing. so i go back to leveling the bed and... oh look, they;re all wildly different heights again.
im losing my fucking mind.
are your springs fully extended? this would cause an easy movement, are you sure your X gantry is not moving off alignment? did you check your bed is flat with a ruler on edge from corner to corner? Happy to work through solution searching by phone with you if you like.
What about the link to your tool kit?
www.thingiverse.com/thing:2743012 here you go!
Which file should I use for levelling My Ender 3 Max ?
I would guess the CR 10 file, can you try and tell us if it lands over leveling knobs?
@@WhamBamSystems Thanks for the quick response, I`ll try it tonight and keep you posted on that.
@@WhamBamSystems OK, tested it last night, had to run it 5 or 6 times, I guess My eye levelling was crooked since I lowered totally the bed as wel as the limit switch since I had warping problems, I came back to the basics. After a couple runs (and 2 heat preparations) I printed out and it was A-OK. One suggestion though, I don't know if it's timed in the microcode but I would suggest you bypass the cooling after the tests to keep them heated until user decides otherwise. But CR-10 worked fine with My Ender 3 Max Thanks !!
as for landing over the levelling Knobs, I didn't pay attention, I was mostly wanting to print a file needed since a couple days. but I`ll try to figure that out later in 2 weeks since I am off for vacations tomorrow.
@@marcrobichaud9057 great to know, thanks for the feedback!
where can i get the G-code for an ender 3
here you go: www.dropbox.com/s/4gac8cfuq7m0mb9/Ender3_LEVEL_psd.gcode?dl=0
Can you share that circle test file ?
the gcode leveling files are in the description above. is that what you are asking for?
@@WhamBamSystems no..I am asking for printed file, which you did print in video regarding first layer in black filament .
will this work on anet a 8
Glen Mccall it should, you may have to adjust some distances in gcode to get the head to stop right over your leveling wheels
@@WhamBamSystems kool kool kool i thanks i been up since 7am and Cant get anything working here been on tube all day and noone have good setting for cura 4.5 do you have setting you allway use the work any settings will help thanks
Sorry to hear your print issues, I would be happy to help you if you have any questions, but unfortunately I don’t use cura, I use Simplify3d but could send you my settings if you like? I also recommend getting into an Anet Facebook group and getting advice, they know your printer. You should start with PLA, what’s your bed surface? Are you getting first layer to go down smooth and squished?
@@WhamBamSystems at first i got a good layer then after that per crap i will try facebook group and i heard simplify cost ,, thanks Does your settings work with cura
A ender3 are not a high end machine. I wouldn't wast my time and energy on it with one lead screw on the z it will never be bang on no matter what you try. It's a printer for kids to have fun on.
you need to do a leveling gcode for the cr-10 mini for us noobs
you do also wrong. you should not use paper for leeling that dosent make sene. I alsway have perfect first layer. level bed need be match for g-code what nozol you use and what first leyer is setup. Paper is one hight but in example firts layer is 0.1 or another project 0.35 that make disfrends. that why methods on paper is nosens and is just not thinkg copy of others
I am sorry but I dont understand your message. I believe paper is far superior to metal feeler gauges because you can feel the drag and resistance. With metal it slips so its hard to tell, and when you have it tight it may also even compress springs and give a false reading. You can get different thicknesses of paper to test which works best for which filament. I also recommend a live level after the paper level to fine tune, you might find that you will turn your wheels an 1/8 turn to dial it in after the paper level./