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The first problem also can be solved by enabling coasting in Cura. It stops filament feed a few mm before the perimeter end. So the hotend can relive pressure a bit. It helps a lot with runny filaments like PTEG.
Nice tip, didn't know about the coasting (I knew it was there, but never figured where it was helpful). Gotta check that out if I end up with this problem now!
I enjoy helping other troubleshoot and watching these types of videos. Often it's something you've seen before and can quickly help someone, which is its own reward, but sometimes you get a fun puzzle to solve. It helps them, and it helps you grow your own knowledge. The more you learn about all these failure modes, the less frustrating 3D printing becomes, and you actually start enjoying the hobby rather than dreading the next problem. Nice video, Thomas!
Love it! I would call myself an advanced and experienced 3D printer user, but you're never too old and good to learn something new. Thanks and keep doing this series!
Great video, the little bumps i always thought was caused by not enough retraction. Had the issue on an older printer but haven't seen it since but now i know if i come across it.
Re: cleaning print surfaces I apparently have oily skin, I've flooded Prusa sheets with IPA before and still got adhesion issues. When I put on nitrile gloves, that went away. If that still doesn't work, I give it a quick swipe with acetone then clean it with IPA. Filleted surfaces facing down can turn into a dog's dinner when 3D printed, especially if the fillet goes all the way around the model (that can result in air printing). It might be worth cutting the model in half and printing the pieces with the fillets facing up, then gluing the pieces back together.
In response to the first problem with the blobs on the seems: make sure you print the inner perimeters before the outer. If you print the outer first your nozzle will ooze during the travel move to the beginning of the seem. With internal perimeters first the ooze wipe will be invisible and the outer perimeter will start with just moving over 1 perimeter thickness from where the previous perimeter ended so no time to ooze.
Problem 2 is a good example of why I think the closed loop systems that measure the movement of the stepper motor is basically worhless. You need to measure the opposite pulley tot he motor so you know that something have actually moved instead of the motor that might move but everything else is standing still.
Thanks for giving me the inspiration to take the cover off my old heavy modded cr10s :) She now has all bearings degreased and refurbished, all pulleys checked and belts tightened. Went over all the frame screws just for fun, and im glad i did :) some1 was sloppy when assembling? hmm i wonder :P Juuuust finished leveling the bed, all i had was tpu,, but it worked fine ;) 0.1mm layer squares, all within 0.01mm tolerance. I think i got it level enough now;) THanks again man. Currently printing a can sleeve cooler thing for my coldsnacks. Cheers
Great tips, thanks I currently have a printer that stops extruding after a random number of layers. I suspect that I have an extruder cable with an interment open.
On my Prusa Mini, I have been having some minor issues with connecting multiple parts together. Instead of a flat edge between the two, the two parts have a slight curl away from each other, creating a noticeable gap. I am using painters tape to increase bed adhesion, could that be an issue?
Not really since it happens when the printer moves from inner to outer wall. You would just end up with obvious zits in a vertical line and that gradient he mentioned
Great video! I just got my first 3D printer this past Xmas and you answered all the small questions I was having about my printing. So happy to have a visual to see and compare with my prints. I've been struggling to find a good comparison of my defects so I can find a solution and this answered them all in a quick but very thorough manner! Thank you so so so much!
I went back to some of your early videos and was noticing how your "English accent" has evolved over the years. Your English still "sounds German", but you now breathe more naturally (in the "right places"), add more nuanced expressiveness (pauses, tone, volume), and vary pitch (not just volume) for more effective emphasis. I have two friends (siblings) who moved from Germany to the US at ages 8 and 10, and 35 years later their English still is not nearly as expressive as yours. Then there's your fellow countryman Stefan of CNC Kitchen. Though Stefan still sounds "very German", the evolution and improvement of his English is beyond amazing. His "heavier" accent has awesome emotional expressiveness, even when he's clearly struggling to enunciate the English syllables correctly. What's natural for you is still hard for Stefan, but he doubles down on his expressiveness. Hearing you speaking English together, each with your unique differences, breaks my brain a little. In a good way. My second language is French, and to this day my accent very faithfully mirrors that of my last (and best) French teacher, who came from a petit village an hour south of Paris. Which I speak using my American brain and limited high school vocabulary. Which, when I visit France, causes the French to treat me not as an American with a good accent and poor vocabulary, but rather as a Frenchman with a mental deficit. Which I count as a win! Both you and Stefan have FAR greater English fluency than I have in French. I'm not even close. But I'll bet my accent is better!
The first problem looks like too high of a retraction length. If set too high, the nozzle can suck up a bubble of air inside and then get pushed out close to the start of the line/seam. I had noticed this issue when doing a pressure advance tuning tower. The bubble/zit was always on the side of the start of the seam. I turned down the retraction length from 2.0mm to 0.5mm and the zits completely disappeared. I have a Voron v0.1 with a Dragonfly hotend.
I was half tempted to send in a photo of my Voron Trident build and be all "help, it doesn't print!" but it doesn't even have an x-gantry assembled yet...
Hey Tom, great video! Question, what camera is that you were using at the end of the video? The quality actually looks pretty good compared to lots of other cams. (The cam that is mounted to the printer.)
1st problem - can try enable "retract on layer change" to decrease pressure a bit. 3td problem - PETG does not like to be squished in general. Also, layer above it may fail to bind to first layer properly then and you may get tears in 2nd and other layers.
You say that many modern printers have pressure advance active and tuned by default. Which printer models do you mean? No manufacturer advertises such details.
Tom, I've been tinkering with 3d printers almost as long as you but was stumped by a first layer issue for the past few weeks. After watching this video it turns out first layer extrusion multiplier was screwing up all of the layers as high as 10-15! Pretty cool that a relatively experienced hobbyist can still learn a thing or two from newbie-oriented content. Also, I was recently thinking about your foray into MPCNC-land and what a sour experience that was. Have you given the PrintNC a look? It looks like it might check all the boxes. Fully open source(well organized Fusion 360 parametric model free to download!), utilizes 3d printed parts for machine building, and has relatively little content already on youtube about it. The discord is also very active. Worth a look if you're thinking about new project content. Cheers!~
So you say there is more than to calibrate your E-Steps and level your bed? All kidding aside, very educational video. Really interesting how much you go into detail and spot mistakes that non-senpais would simply miss. It just shows the years of experience, knowledge and passion for the subject. Looking forward to the next videos!
one video I would like to see is, converting a 1.75mm direct drive (or bowden) to 2.85mm, which 2.85mm I my experience is cheaper. I modified my Anet A8 for 2.85mm and I did a copper wire through the nozzle approx 3 years. I did the 2.85mm mod because I wanted to print trimmer line, which prints so well once its dried. 2.85mm has its cons but it also has its pros. 2.85mm petg can be a pain from my experience, heat creep, not melting evenly resulting in jamming. but at 1/2 the cost from my filament supplier worth the troubles. and trimmer line, when dry, prints better as easy as pla
Are there any slicers with higher level control parameters so they're easier for people with less experience? So you can specify what the priorities for the print are: speed, surface quality, weight, shell integrity (i.e. no holes), etc and then that tweaks a bunch of parameters rather than you doing so explicitly. That would seem like the long term ideal to strive for. I've only ever used Cura which I've read has a lot of controls so perhaps this is closer (at least a bit, anyway) to how it works in some other software.
Cura allows you to choose what parameters you want to see or you use most - you can use the basic setting which does pretty much everything for you or switch to advanced and fine tune the settings .
Ah I didn't know you were doing this. One of my printers has a problem nobody has had an answer for. A wavy pattern on the +X side of all prints. Also on -X but not as pronounced. I've basically stopped using that printer.
I have to admit, I gave up after a while and my printer has been collecting dust for four years now. I simply don't have the motivation to dedicate the time to clean and fix it. The printer also needs some new parts and I don't have the energy to decide which hotend to go for ):
A nice but rather short Video... The're so many other problems people must have send you... Why only adressing 3? The first one (Lego piece) looks more like an aleatory seam to me... which due to slightly wrong retraction settings is creating its overall shape. When an infill is too fast you usually see shady bumbs, not blobs. Or like you mentioned -The filament has taken up humidity..
I have a problem with my 3d printer, when i try to print something it prints on the side as it should and it stays on, how ever when it starts to print the actual print in the center it does not stay on and i have even tryed buying a new bed on it which had some left over resin on, and now that i have tryed the new bed that arrived im very concerned about if i should buy a new 3d printer or if there is any way to solve this problem
Thank you for the video. I would like to know how to reduce or eliminate corner bulge. I use an Ender 5 and Ender 5 Plus, and tend to use a wall speed of 40 mm/s, so I'm not going too fast.
Great video! I really liked this format for sharing your vast experience with these little 3d print issues. I feel like I'm going to learn a lot going forward from these.
I recently had a bag clog on my ender 3 pro, I had to take my hot end completely apart and even trim about 3/8" off the tubing and reassemble. now I seem to have little micro gaps randomly through the layers, that wasn't doing before, any ideas what could help resolve
In supersicer I am trying to run my first layer speed to 50% but when I change the speed it doesn't change it on my prusa i3. I have to manually go in and dial it down to 50%. The first layers is in mm/s for min and a percent for max. What am I doing wrong
hi, i made a 3d model a while back with very bad topology, it literally has 10 million faces. i really don't want to retopologize it since i already put 5 months into it, will it 3d print?
3D printers are a lot like vintage vehicles, especially anything carbureted. They need constant upkeep and repairs to stay running reliably cuz of the many parts that wear with use, rubber/silicone parts will stretch or dry out and deteriorate, nuts and bolts can get loose from vibrations, hoses/feed lines can get jammed, etc.. it's good habit to routinely check these wear parts
Why not doing some live streaming collaboration video to solve 3D print problem, with channel like CNC kitchen, or Maker Muse ? Same principle, viewer send photo, then the experts analyzed and debate, can be interesting. You are more on printer build and tweek, Stefan in about material and settings, then Angus is more design.
in april i got given a used ender 3 v2 neo by a family member as a gift as they were upgrading. this is my first printer. after teaching myself how to use it and getting very familiar with the machine i am still unable to get even one test print, i can get the bed perfectly leveled and a good first 3 layers then it stops extruding and keeps going, no extruder clicking it just ends up leaking out or underextruding. i have done multiple fixes for heat creep ect, taken apart and put back together the hotend, cleaned and even replaced the tubing and couplers hoping for any sort of result. i have spent maybe over 100 hours troubleshooting and exhausting all the fixes i could find. im not quite sure how to go forward and i dont have anyone able to assist me currently. im willing to pay to just have someone physically help with it or give instruction on what to try next. thank you.
Without confirmation that these changes would fix the printing I don't think it is as strong of a video. There are many times when I have a theory on why something is happening with my printer but there are just so many possibilities it is often wrong. Feels a bit like armchair engineering without the hands on aspect.
Hey just got my first printer and chose an ender 5 plus because of its massive build volume. 2 questions though 1. Any opinions on this machine or upgrades I should get or print for it? And 2. Is it normal to hear light popping sounds on occasion while printing? Sounds like it's coming from the hot end. My only upgrades so far was an all metal hot end, silent board, and Capricorn tubing.
Hey, my nozzle got clogged, and so I tried to remove the nozzle, but it just wouldn’t come off. I think that the filament got stuck between the nozzle, and that other part. How do I take the nozzle off safely and replace it? (Idk if this helps but I have the Voxelab Aquila x2 N32)
Do all fdm printers (non direct drive) have a standard bowden tube fitting size/thread, specifically on the FILAMENT FEEDER(not the print head fitting)? I have an Ender 3 pro and the fitting on the feeder motor with the geared teeth always loosens. I think I have an alternative, but Im having a really hard time finding the right part.
The Zips can also be reduced further by the new (experimental) Cura/PrusaSlicer setting "Pressurer Equalizer". If you set an appropriate value for the "slow down" portion of the function, the print time will increase slightly, as you basically "ramp down" to the lower speed for outer perimeters. But your slicer will have an easier time to calculate realistic pressure buildup in bowden extruders and thus get more consistent linear extrusions. That + the mentioned measures should pretty much eliminate the issue.
Nice job man!:) I just started printing with Ender 3 V2, looks like my problem is my type of PLA is really the cheapest one, so i always need to use Raft because its not sticking, but its good for learning and testing, and clean the bed so the raft Can get sticking, But the model itself sadly not... (cleaning with window cleaner) Damn, i need someone in my country who can diagnose Any problems.. >:D
I’m having a warping issue with a large flat lid for a electronics box project on my Prusa Mini+, I am on a support email thread with a guy from Prusa. So far very satisfied with my printer.
Hey Thomas, have you ever seen problem slicing while mining crypto on nicehash ? It looks like it create repeatable line shifting on my prints, anyone knows about this ? I can't read the gcode, so it's hard to say... Thanks ! :)
My ender 3 pro nozzle can only get up to 160 degrees. All connections tight on main board. I’ve replaced thermistor. I checked barrel hot end heater with meter. 17.5 ohms the bed heater is fine. The message I get is “heater Failed Printer Halted Please Reset”. Please suggest what to check
Nine times out of ten I can't get the first layer to stick to the bed. I've leveled the bed again and again. I've reduced print speed. I've bumped up temperature and initial layer thickness. Nothing at all seems to work. The only successful prints I've had with my printer were as it was right out of the box. Since I've started changing settings, not one successful print.
my ender 3 v2 under extrudes only in the front left corner of my build plate? any walls or surfaces facing directly at the corner come out under extruded with1 wall thickness fading to nothing the rest of the print is about 90-95 % perfect .any ideas ?
This is such a good video! Just hearing your thought process when diagnosing and solving problems helps so much because otherwise I might never think of some of these things on my own. I hope these videos become a regular thing!
Do you have any experience with coasting in cura? I feel like that might help out with the first problem shown, and you don't need pressure advance on something like klipper.
What if printers used metal or non-flexible belts/chains/gears instead of rubber belts? The less flexible something is, the longer is _should_ last without 'stretching'.
hi can you help me please iv recently had to change my heat block and nozzal iv watched all the videos possible on the right way of doing it and my printer is ok but prints are not so good i used to have a good 80% over hang but i have nothink no zero tollarence on eny over hang just saggy layers hanging down i have a picture but don't know how to get it to you to show you ??? if you could get back to me that would be great thank you
My auto adjust mode keeps sending the cr touch off the bed so I have to touch the cr touch sensor so it doesn't send the nozzle straight through my bed 😬...please help
I have a issue with my 3d printer it will print some files but others won't print I have changed any settings as I am very new to 3d printing it's not the bed level as it prints some files really well it seems like the filament isn't coming through for the other prints
Most of the problems I have encountered over the years can be described by saying the model of my printer: Lulzbot Mini V0 The joys of being an early adopter lol Ours was probably within the first few thousand of the lulzbot mini's produced, so z axis issues, bed levelling problems, bushings and belts wearing out from old age, mounts for the various bearings for the belts cracking, z offsets being off from the factory, the clamp for the extruder feed system often broke on the early ones they made it thicker later on, not to mention the electrical faults, good god the wiring in that thing was a rat's nest haha
Hehe, this is part of the fun with 3d printing, solving problems that crop up all the time. I'm a bit stupid so I designed and built my own core-xy 3d printer from scratch after only having made 5 ish prints with the cr10 I started with. Tuning a 3d printer from scratch is a learning experience I tell you!
Excellent clip. Do more like this. These would be extremely useful to not just the n00bs. All of us struggle with "weird" printer issues from time to time.
Very good video and analysis, as always. I'd even say some of the discussed issues, if not all, have their solution "right there" with just a bit of common sense.
Thanks for the great video Thomas. I found your video very informative. I've been printing for a few years now and still learning thanks to great content like this.
Thanks to Brilliant for sponsoring this video! Visit brilliant.org/ThomasSanladerer/ to get started learning STEM for free, and the first 200 people will get 20% off their annual premium subscription.
First
The first problem also can be solved by enabling coasting in Cura. It stops filament feed a few mm before the perimeter end. So the hotend can relive pressure a bit. It helps a lot with runny filaments like PTEG.
Nice tip, didn't know about the coasting (I knew it was there, but never figured where it was helpful). Gotta check that out if I end up with this problem now!
Seconded, petg needs coasting enabled in my experience to get rid of stringing.
I enjoy helping other troubleshoot and watching these types of videos. Often it's something you've seen before and can quickly help someone, which is its own reward, but sometimes you get a fun puzzle to solve. It helps them, and it helps you grow your own knowledge. The more you learn about all these failure modes, the less frustrating 3D printing becomes, and you actually start enjoying the hobby rather than dreading the next problem. Nice video, Thomas!
Love it! I would call myself an advanced and experienced 3D printer user, but you're never too old and good to learn something new. Thanks and keep doing this series!
Great video, the little bumps i always thought was caused by not enough retraction. Had the issue on an older printer but haven't seen it since but now i know if i come across it.
Re: cleaning print surfaces
I apparently have oily skin, I've flooded Prusa sheets with IPA before and still got adhesion issues. When I put on nitrile gloves, that went away. If that still doesn't work, I give it a quick swipe with acetone then clean it with IPA.
Filleted surfaces facing down can turn into a dog's dinner when 3D printed, especially if the fillet goes all the way around the model (that can result in air printing). It might be worth cutting the model in half and printing the pieces with the fillets facing up, then gluing the pieces back together.
In response to the first problem with the blobs on the seems: make sure you print the inner perimeters before the outer. If you print the outer first your nozzle will ooze during the travel move to the beginning of the seem. With internal perimeters first the ooze wipe will be invisible and the outer perimeter will start with just moving over 1 perimeter thickness from where the previous perimeter ended so no time to ooze.
Glad to see other creators doing Print Fix videos! We do them weekly! I love your editing style here Tom! Great work! Spot on for the fixes too!
Problem 2 is a good example of why I think the closed loop systems that measure the movement of the stepper motor is basically worhless.
You need to measure the opposite pulley tot he motor so you know that something have actually moved instead of the motor that might move but everything else is standing still.
Closed loop is not a solution to backlash, and I don't think anyone knowledgeable would claim it to be.
@@jaro6985 unless you use glass scales or sth like that, which would be real closed loop
You can never do too many problem solving videos. Good stuff
Thanks for giving me the inspiration to take the cover off my old heavy modded cr10s :) She now has all bearings degreased and refurbished, all pulleys checked and belts tightened. Went over all the frame screws just for fun, and im glad i did :) some1 was sloppy when assembling? hmm i wonder :P
Juuuust finished leveling the bed, all i had was tpu,, but it worked fine ;) 0.1mm layer squares, all within 0.01mm tolerance. I think i got it level enough now;)
THanks again man. Currently printing a can sleeve cooler thing for my coldsnacks. Cheers
Great tips, thanks
I currently have a printer that stops extruding after a random number of layers. I suspect that I have an extruder cable with an interment open.
WoW, that was great. Look forward to more like this.
On my Prusa Mini, I have been having some minor issues with connecting multiple parts together. Instead of a flat edge between the two, the two parts have a slight curl away from each other, creating a noticeable gap. I am using painters tape to increase bed adhesion, could that be an issue?
Could that first issue not also be fixed by making sure your Z Seam is aligned/otherwise not set to random?
Not really since it happens when the printer moves from inner to outer wall. You would just end up with obvious zits in a vertical line and that gradient he mentioned
@@ciarfah depends if you have random z hop or an assigned location
Great video! I just got my first 3D printer this past Xmas and you answered all the small questions I was having about my printing. So happy to have a visual to see and compare with my prints. I've been struggling to find a good comparison of my defects so I can find a solution and this answered them all in a quick but very thorough manner! Thank you so so so much!
I went back to some of your early videos and was noticing how your "English accent" has evolved over the years. Your English still "sounds German", but you now breathe more naturally (in the "right places"), add more nuanced expressiveness (pauses, tone, volume), and vary pitch (not just volume) for more effective emphasis. I have two friends (siblings) who moved from Germany to the US at ages 8 and 10, and 35 years later their English still is not nearly as expressive as yours.
Then there's your fellow countryman Stefan of CNC Kitchen. Though Stefan still sounds "very German", the evolution and improvement of his English is beyond amazing. His "heavier" accent has awesome emotional expressiveness, even when he's clearly struggling to enunciate the English syllables correctly. What's natural for you is still hard for Stefan, but he doubles down on his expressiveness. Hearing you speaking English together, each with your unique differences, breaks my brain a little. In a good way.
My second language is French, and to this day my accent very faithfully mirrors that of my last (and best) French teacher, who came from a petit village an hour south of Paris. Which I speak using my American brain and limited high school vocabulary. Which, when I visit France, causes the French to treat me not as an American with a good accent and poor vocabulary, but rather as a Frenchman with a mental deficit. Which I count as a win!
Both you and Stefan have FAR greater English fluency than I have in French. I'm not even close. But I'll bet my accent is better!
The first problem looks like too high of a retraction length. If set too high, the nozzle can suck up a bubble of air inside and then get pushed out close to the start of the line/seam. I had noticed this issue when doing a pressure advance tuning tower. The bubble/zit was always on the side of the start of the seam. I turned down the retraction length from 2.0mm to 0.5mm and the zits completely disappeared. I have a Voron v0.1 with a Dragonfly hotend.
Definitely a timely video. Good for you for tackling some of these issues and helping out the community!
I was half tempted to send in a photo of my Voron Trident build and be all "help, it doesn't print!" but it doesn't even have an x-gantry assembled yet...
Hey Tom, great video! Question, what camera is that you were using at the end of the video? The quality actually looks pretty good compared to lots of other cams. (The cam that is mounted to the printer.)
1st problem - can try enable "retract on layer change" to decrease pressure a bit.
3td problem - PETG does not like to be squished in general. Also, layer above it may fail to bind to first layer properly then and you may get tears in 2nd and other layers.
You say that many modern printers have pressure advance active and tuned by default. Which printer models do you mean? No manufacturer advertises such details.
I like this series
Tom, I've been tinkering with 3d printers almost as long as you but was stumped by a first layer issue for the past few weeks. After watching this video it turns out first layer extrusion multiplier was screwing up all of the layers as high as 10-15! Pretty cool that a relatively experienced hobbyist can still learn a thing or two from newbie-oriented content. Also, I was recently thinking about your foray into MPCNC-land and what a sour experience that was. Have you given the PrintNC a look? It looks like it might check all the boxes. Fully open source(well organized Fusion 360 parametric model free to download!), utilizes 3d printed parts for machine building, and has relatively little content already on youtube about it. The discord is also very active. Worth a look if you're thinking about new project content. Cheers!~
great youtuber, amazing channel!
So you say there is more than to calibrate your E-Steps and level your bed?
All kidding aside, very educational video. Really interesting how much you go into detail and spot mistakes that non-senpais would simply miss. It just shows the years of experience, knowledge and passion for the subject. Looking forward to the next videos!
one video I would like to see is, converting a 1.75mm direct drive (or bowden) to 2.85mm, which 2.85mm I my experience is cheaper. I modified my Anet A8 for 2.85mm and I did a copper wire through the nozzle approx 3 years. I did the 2.85mm mod because I wanted to print trimmer line, which prints so well once its dried. 2.85mm has its cons but it also has its pros. 2.85mm petg can be a pain from my experience, heat creep, not melting evenly resulting in jamming. but at 1/2 the cost from my filament supplier worth the troubles. and trimmer line, when dry, prints better as easy as pla
Love it, thanks!
Thanks for that. I have a problem that I think you can solve. How do I submit it to you?
Thanks!
Thank you very much!
Are there any slicers with higher level control parameters so they're easier for people with less experience? So you can specify what the priorities for the print are: speed, surface quality, weight, shell integrity (i.e. no holes), etc and then that tweaks a bunch of parameters rather than you doing so explicitly. That would seem like the long term ideal to strive for. I've only ever used Cura which I've read has a lot of controls so perhaps this is closer (at least a bit, anyway) to how it works in some other software.
Cura allows you to choose what parameters you want to see or you use most - you can use the basic setting which does pretty much everything for you or switch to advanced and fine tune the settings .
Could you post a video about the form labs form 3 resin printer?
definitely!
Ah I didn't know you were doing this. One of my printers has a problem nobody has had an answer for. A wavy pattern on the +X side of all prints. Also on -X but not as pronounced. I've basically stopped using that printer.
I have to admit, I gave up after a while and my printer has been collecting dust for four years now.
I simply don't have the motivation to dedicate the time to clean and fix it. The printer also needs some new parts and I don't have the energy to decide which hotend to go for ):
A nice but rather short Video... The're so many other problems people must have send you... Why only adressing 3?
The first one (Lego piece) looks more like an aleatory seam to me... which due to slightly wrong retraction settings is creating its overall shape.
When an infill is too fast you usually see shady bumbs, not blobs. Or like you mentioned -The filament has taken up humidity..
I have a problem with my 3d printer, when i try to print something it prints on the side as it should and it stays on, how ever when it starts to print the actual print in the center it does not stay on and i have even tryed buying a new bed on it which had some left over resin on, and now that i have tryed the new bed that arrived im very concerned about if i should buy a new 3d printer or if there is any way to solve this problem
the tape over the laptop logo ☠️
Gosh this is such an amazing video, I had to left a comment.
Thank you for the video.
I would like to know how to reduce or eliminate corner bulge. I use an Ender 5 and Ender 5 Plus, and tend to use a wall speed of 40 mm/s, so I'm not going too fast.
I really wish this video was a 30 minute "heres every common problem" video guide...
It seems so obvious now, but the speed equalizing for internal and external perimeters worked to help resolve some stuff for me, thanks!
Great video! I really liked this format for sharing your vast experience with these little 3d print issues. I feel like I'm going to learn a lot going forward from these.
Amazing as always. I loved pausing and trying to answer before you to see how close our advice was. Makes a fun game
This was a very helpful video because I've dealt with these problems myself on a prusa.
Loved this topic. Looking forward to the next one. Thank you, senpai.
I recently had a bag clog on my ender 3 pro, I had to take my hot end completely apart and even trim about 3/8" off the tubing and reassemble. now I seem to have little micro gaps randomly through the layers, that wasn't doing before, any ideas what could help resolve
In supersicer I am trying to run my first layer speed to 50% but when I change the speed it doesn't change it on my prusa i3. I have to manually go in and dial it down to 50%. The first layers is in mm/s for min and a percent for max. What am I doing wrong
hi, i made a 3d model a while back with very bad topology, it literally has 10 million faces. i really don't want to retopologize it since i already put 5 months into it, will it 3d print?
Learned so much from this video! Thank you Thomas.
Could listen to you all day ! So much info flowing.....
Tanks! Really insightful!
schönes Wochenende :-)
This is great, you should do one a month!!!11!!
Hey we have same multimeter! Lol
3D printers are a lot like vintage vehicles, especially anything carbureted. They need constant upkeep and repairs to stay running reliably cuz of the many parts that wear with use, rubber/silicone parts will stretch or dry out and deteriorate, nuts and bolts can get loose from vibrations, hoses/feed lines can get jammed, etc.. it's good habit to routinely check these wear parts
Why not doing some live streaming collaboration video to solve 3D print problem, with channel like CNC kitchen, or Maker Muse ?
Same principle, viewer send photo, then the experts analyzed and debate, can be interesting. You are more on printer build and tweek, Stefan in about material and settings, then Angus is more design.
in april i got given a used ender 3 v2 neo by a family member as a gift as they were upgrading. this is my first printer. after teaching myself how to use it and getting very familiar with the machine i am still unable to get even one test print, i can get the bed perfectly leveled and a good first 3 layers then it stops extruding and keeps going, no extruder clicking it just ends up leaking out or underextruding. i have done multiple fixes for heat creep ect, taken apart and put back together the hotend, cleaned and even replaced the tubing and couplers hoping for any sort of result. i have spent maybe over 100 hours troubleshooting and exhausting all the fixes i could find. im not quite sure how to go forward and i dont have anyone able to assist me currently. im willing to pay to just have someone physically help with it or give instruction on what to try next. thank you.
Without confirmation that these changes would fix the printing I don't think it is as strong of a video. There are many times when I have a theory on why something is happening with my printer but there are just so many possibilities it is often wrong. Feels a bit like armchair engineering without the hands on aspect.
Hey just got my first printer and chose an ender 5 plus because of its massive build volume. 2 questions though 1. Any opinions on this machine or upgrades I should get or print for it? And 2. Is it normal to hear light popping sounds on occasion while printing? Sounds like it's coming from the hot end. My only upgrades so far was an all metal hot end, silent board, and Capricorn tubing.
The popping sound is most likely moisture in your filament. It can easily be dried out and you’ll get better prints and no more popping sounds!
Hey, my nozzle got clogged, and so I tried to remove the nozzle, but it just wouldn’t come off. I think that the filament got stuck between the nozzle, and that other part. How do I take the nozzle off safely and replace it? (Idk if this helps but I have the Voxelab Aquila x2 N32)
Do all fdm printers (non direct drive) have a standard bowden tube fitting size/thread, specifically on the FILAMENT FEEDER(not the print head fitting)? I have an Ender 3 pro and the fitting on the feeder motor with the geared teeth always loosens. I think I have an alternative, but Im having a really hard time finding the right part.
The Zips can also be reduced further by the new (experimental) Cura/PrusaSlicer setting "Pressurer Equalizer".
If you set an appropriate value for the "slow down" portion of the function, the print time will increase slightly,
as you basically "ramp down" to the lower speed for outer perimeters.
But your slicer will have an easier time to calculate realistic pressure buildup in bowden extruders and
thus get more consistent linear extrusions.
That + the mentioned measures should pretty much eliminate the issue.
Great video 10/10 😉
Nice job man!:) I just started printing with Ender 3 V2, looks like my problem is my type of PLA is really the cheapest one, so i always need to use Raft because its not sticking, but its good for learning and testing, and clean the bed so the raft Can get sticking, But the model itself sadly not... (cleaning with window cleaner) Damn, i need someone in my country who can diagnose Any problems.. >:D
I’m having a warping issue with a large flat lid for a electronics box project on my Prusa Mini+, I am on a support email thread with a guy from Prusa. So far very satisfied with my printer.
Hey Thomas, have you ever seen problem slicing while mining crypto on nicehash ?
It looks like it create repeatable line shifting on my prints, anyone knows about this ? I can't read the gcode, so it's hard to say... Thanks ! :)
My ender 3 pro nozzle can only get up to 160 degrees. All connections tight on main board. I’ve replaced thermistor. I checked barrel hot end heater with meter. 17.5 ohms the bed heater is fine. The message I get is “heater Failed Printer Halted Please Reset”. Please suggest what to check
Nine times out of ten I can't get the first layer to stick to the bed. I've leveled the bed again and again. I've reduced print speed. I've bumped up temperature and initial layer thickness. Nothing at all seems to work. The only successful prints I've had with my printer were as it was right out of the box. Since I've started changing settings, not one successful print.
my ender 3 v2 under extrudes only in the front left corner of my build plate? any walls or surfaces facing directly at the corner come out under extruded with1 wall thickness fading to nothing the rest of the print is about 90-95 % perfect .any ideas ?
This is such a good video! Just hearing your thought process when diagnosing and solving problems helps so much because otherwise I might never think of some of these things on my own. I hope these videos become a regular thing!
Do you have any experience with coasting in cura? I feel like that might help out with the first problem shown, and you don't need pressure advance on something like klipper.
What if printers used metal or non-flexible belts/chains/gears instead of rubber belts? The less flexible something is, the longer is _should_ last without 'stretching'.
hi can you help me please iv recently had to change my heat block and nozzal iv watched all the videos possible on the right way of doing it and my printer is ok but prints are not so good i used to have a good 80% over hang but i have nothink no zero tollarence on eny over hang just saggy layers hanging down i have a picture but don't know how to get it to you to show you ??? if you could get back to me that would be great thank you
My auto adjust mode keeps sending the cr touch off the bed so I have to touch the cr touch sensor so it doesn't send the nozzle straight through my bed 😬...please help
I have a issue with my 3d printer it will print some files but others won't print I have changed any settings as I am very new to 3d printing it's not the bed level as it prints some files really well it seems like the filament isn't coming through for the other prints
30 printer is stopping. When it’s beaming down the toy is not printing anything what should I do?
Most of the problems I have encountered over the years can be described by saying the model of my printer: Lulzbot Mini V0
The joys of being an early adopter lol
Ours was probably within the first few thousand of the lulzbot mini's produced, so z axis issues, bed levelling problems, bushings and belts wearing out from old age, mounts for the various bearings for the belts cracking, z offsets being off from the factory, the clamp for the extruder feed system often broke on the early ones they made it thicker later on, not to mention the electrical faults, good god the wiring in that thing was a rat's nest haha
Hehe, this is part of the fun with 3d printing, solving problems that crop up all the time. I'm a bit stupid so I designed and built my own core-xy 3d printer from scratch after only having made 5 ish prints with the cr10 I started with. Tuning a 3d printer from scratch is a learning experience I tell you!
Holy shit I've been wondering on the first one! Thank you, I'll try it!
Total noob here. This video was very helpful to me and I have subscribed to learn more about 3d printing from experts like yourself. Thank you!
These tips were very helpful. But what I really want to know is where that hoodie came from!
What about pipoles i have had problems when doing small parts but not big parts if anyone know please tell me how to fix it
hahaha boy do I have some pictures for you lol I dont know wtf I am doing lmao
great vids but how do i get the malyan m150 print of the sd card
having an MSLA printer I envy the ability to actually watch a print fail.
Excellent clip. Do more like this. These would be extremely useful to not just the n00bs. All of us struggle with "weird" printer issues from time to time.
thanks for pointing out some fixes Tom, I didn't think there was so much detail in the photo for you
Is there a website or place we can goto, to help us when we have 3D printing issues?
Knob no longer turning or pressing down on ender 5 pro. Please let me know if anyone has a solution!
I like #3DSenpai , the last one before this one was a long time ago. Please keep it as regular interval so it helps lots of people. thanks
blobs on the surface can be "random seam position" option in the slicer
Imagine being old enough to get the opening reference. :) I can not imagine that. ;)
In the first one the problem was also the random seam I guess…
Very good video and analysis, as always. I'd even say some of the discussed issues, if not all, have their solution "right there" with just a bit of common sense.
Who was the original 3D senpai you mention?
Thanks for the great video Thomas. I found your video very informative. I've been printing for a few years now and still learning thanks to great content like this.
For that last one, couldn't you just have used supports to the filleted edge from the bed, and not a full raft?
Thank you Tom! Not this time, but then you are stuck are the most time-consuming event there is.
IIRC in cura you can start the nozzle position for the outside wall with an offset to stop zits.
You gave me ideas to fix an issue I was having. Thank you & Happy New Year !