Even better if you modify it to have a solar "truss" to have solar facing both east and west (presuming cab as _North_ ) and the solar panel is double faced (according to Artisan Electrics) which will provide more electric
On a small project, there is no reason to delay a thorough review of the drawings before signing a contract or starting construction. Most requests for information can be resolved at the beginning before construction starts on small projects.
There a lot of window openings in that "box" so there are probably a lot of lateral loads ( shearwalls) to take into account ( especially if you are in a high seismic zone). Get a calculator and pen and do the math to prove the engineer over designed or get a third party review.
@@AwesomeFramers I can't ever recall you doing talking head at the computer before. Cutting to you or overlaying the footage; for where you normally do strictly voice over. So that was definitely new. Your voice over is always good because it expands more; what you didn't talk about live. It was cool when it cut you doing your voice over but also the segments where you directly talked to us. Added new layers and engaged the learning receptors differently. Basically like we were in the same room. So get to see all the visual cues and expressions and hand gestures. So an additional way that the content is digestible and understandable for the brain. So it was a cool new element and drove different points home a different way. I saw you have that dji gimbal. You have been making an effort lately and its surprising us and we notice & appreciate it. A good resource for learning more of the cinematic movements and angles + editing tricks is Fulltime Filmaker. Their youtube has tons of free resources. A resource for your broll efforts.
For the best set of working drawings, find a building designer and engineer that has had at least one year of hands-on field experience working as a Carpenter or Tradesmen. Then, they understand what you need to start your layout and how to best utilize standard building material size and lengths.❤
That wall looks symmetrical. If so, mark the plates for one side (left in your case), flip one plate to the other side, mark the plates on that side, and flip the plate back onto the left side. Just a suggestion...
we have had jobs where the folder of drawings done by us to clarify details is twice the size of the drawings from the architect or engineer, although we do renovation work so the whole process being a bit of a dialogue is somewhat more expected.
No you're not complaining. It is a complicated wall. I'd be right there with ya. Engineers should be working for the carpenter/framer more directly. They could have looked at that roof attached mid span of the wall and done a diaphragm sheeting section there (shear nailing on the roof sheets)
When framing I always use double studs on the sills, double jacks on anything over 6', and always put jacks under the double sills. Also, I liked getting to the job early to mark out the walls. It was quiet and no distractions for my pea brain.
Honestly, in complex walls, run large engineered headers or even steel, at the top instead of above each opening. Or a header 6ish feet to cover the load for both upoer and lower, the the wibdow and diir upoer header, then a 6ish foot header for both the upper and lower window again..
no wait, you’re looking at the wall from the other side, or is the SketchUp drawing is upside down. Ahh for get it, time to go home. Fresh start tomorrow. Lol
I hear you saying Kings go bottomplate up to topplate, yet you call the right hand side of the first 6060 window kings. And mark them on top plate even, where they won't end up. Wasn't it a better solution to put in between top and bottom plate an extra piece of 2by material to act as a storypole thing for the hight between headers or even cut the headers and put them in there? Maybe after finishing all the true kingstuds layout so you can still use speedsquare to copy them from top to bottomplate. And yes that wall looks horrible designed. The double kings are understandable from the fact that most of them are cut by a window up or down.
Glad to see Nate is recovering! 1 mm from death & God spared him! Ryan you hv a nice new friend in Zach he looks up to you and you know why ! God is Good !
We used to be able to get quite a few 5+ with siding, but now we are slow and in training mode. The market has been slow and we keep going through the 3rd person on the crew.
I get your frustration with this and the complaining. Looking at it from the designer/engineer side, was the contract with you or the homeowner? Assuming homeowner, do you know what the terms/scope of the contract were? I have had many owners cut out the designer and engineer during construction because they didn’t want to pay and expected the builder to “figure it out”. Nobody wants to work for free and take on liability they weren’t paid to deal with. Did they not do their job or did the client not want to pay for work that should have been done? Just want to understand how much of this truly falls on design team before throwing them under the bus.
If the drawings are sealed then the Engineers takes the liability for the structure with them to their grave, not the framer or contractor, something a lot of people dont understand. In my professional opinion this building was not over designed.
We were handed the project with drawings from an architect, engineers's stamp and permits. There is $100k in this project that wouldn't be there if we had been hired earlier.
@@AwesomeFramers that doesn’t surprise me. I hate it when the people actually building the project aren’t involved early in the design. Those projects always seem to cost more and not as nice as they could have been if the whole team was involved from the beginning.
Tim. Thank you. I just had engineering done on a tandem garage, 12'-0" span, 5:12 that I not only designed, but I am slated to frame it. (Hansville, Kitsap Co) Super easy. The rookie apprentice spec'd crazy simpson that I've never needed before in 25 years of hand-cut roof framing. I'm so pissed, that I told the builder to go with trusses and save money.....on a 12 foot span....totally nuts. It seems the eng has no practical framing experience. You've inspired me to make a video about it. The art of stick-framing is being squeezed out of the process due to inept (scared) over engineering.
Sometimes there are issues that a framer is not aware of. In a high seismic area framing can get complicated with hold downs , strapping etc. The engineer has to take liability for the building, not the contractor or framer. This may be a box but there are a lot of windows that will affect the lateral.
I know codes vary but I'm most confused about the single jacks under the 6'0 headers. I thought for sure that span requires doubles, especially with the added weight of the window opening loads landing on them. Am I missing something? Does the future porch ledger carry some of that?
I sent a question to you about a week ago on what pressure do you run that max pro light at? and which compressor do you use. Here every day compressor only goes out to 200 psi. Thanks, Sean .
should have split the lower wall layout to the bottom plate and the upper wall layout to the top plate....either way its confusing. did something simular with a baloon wall. luckily it was short
That was a complex wall, but do you feel like once you had the left side done, the right side should have been a no brainer? And about that Jackery, how long can you leave those dormant? Will the batteries in them degrade a lot over time, if not used regularly? And further to that, how often would be considered "regularly"? THey seem like a very good "rainy day" item, but pretty pricey to have them not function when you pull them off the shelf after an extended period of not being used? I have so many questions, but I'll leave it at that for now! Thanks, and keep up the excellent work!
Yes, it should have been a no brainer, but I'm losing confidence in myself as I get older. On the Jackery, they recommend charging to 70% for battery longevity. On our Tesla Model Y, we charge to 80% for daily driving and 100 if we road trip.
Kyle has suspenders from Akribis If you want the ridge I wear from Badger, email Badger and talk to the custom shop. Tell them Awesome Framers specifications.
Do you have an opinion on the max super framer and the max pro light high pressure coil nailer. It would be a lot to buy the pro light and have to buy the high-pressure compressor as opposed to just buying the coil framer, your thoughts, please.
I absolutely love the HN90F and have used them since 2008. The regular pressure Max stick nailer is a great nailer. It really comes down to cost. I don't mind paying for the higher price for the coild nailer because it improves production.
That was WAY more complicated than it needed to be. Are they really relying on a coupler net to hold all that? What's a grade 2 nut hold? I think you need a long ship auger then you could drill down from above with out all the busy work below. 5/8-11 x 13/16 x 2 1/8 A563 Grade A Hex Coupling Nut This nut has a minimum tensile strength of 60,000 psi and is made from 1010-1018 equivalent steel
After talking to a few different people, I think someone in the office just puts boiler plate details on the plans. Most of them didn't apply, but there was no way for me to know. The answer I kept getting was "good catch, this doesn't apply to this project".
Wow, that was pretty painful. I’m taking it that was the bottom plate and the middle plate that you were laying out, then you lay out the top plate later, is my guess? I’ll never understand why people don’t lay out all three plates at the same time. • So when you were laying out the top windows, why do you mark the bottom plate for the jack and stud that land on the headers? By doing it the way you’re doing, making marks on the bottom plate that don’t need to be there, makes it very confusing for the framer. • Also pick an identifier and stick with it, don’t keep changing symbols. On one sided opening you mark a “T” for the trimmer and on the other side you mark a “J” for jack. You did that several different times. •I honestly didn’t see anything difficult about that layout, I don’t know why you were brain farting all over the place. • Also just put seal seal down around between the sill plate and the foundation. It really takes hardly anytime and it helps keep the insects out, even though we spray foam insulate the box joist we still put down sill seal. • The other painful thing was a FIVE minute commercial, but I skipped right over that.
It's pretty wildly different between some engineers and their interpretation of special structure details. I have found that in my area the older engineers that some are now retired. Their designs are far far more practical and simple, more cost efficient to build. The newer engineering companies are building way over and above what use to be the standard. Why? It's probably an insurance thing on their end, also schooling to new and more stringent standards. Ultimately the end client gets bill. Much higher bill. Spec builders get squeezed and don't make as much profit. What's right? IDK, but how many 1970's houses with zero engineering and built far far lower strength wise have blown down or had problems? Idk but I've never seen one fail
my 1966 house, one owner before me. I've had it 2.5 years. 2x12s on 12" center, 20' span for first and second floor. both of those floors are sagging 2" in center of house where the stairwell is and floors are so bouncy i can't jump up and down without things falling off shelves. the next section of my house the floor is sagging because they thought triple 2x8 beam could span 18'. in the garage i have a triple 2x12 beam on 24' span supporting a second floor and gamble roof. that is about 1.5" down in the middle. So keep thinking it was fine without engineers.
I am Not trying to offend an awesome framer, but have you ever done a SIP project? I have heard the SIP manufacturer and their precision either makes or breaks the project. Some SIP manufactures are good some are... not so good.
Maybe the engineer was designing for a tsunami. Seriously though, every time I would try to lay out specific framing requirements on my drawings (beginning with hold-down anchor rods on the foundation plan, dimensioned to the nearest 1/8") the contractor would tell me they did it their way--cuz they had a left-over 6x6 from another job, and wouldn't that be stronger than a 4x6? etc. This wall looks supremely annoying to engineer, and that got passed on to you. If every stick of framing had been dimensioned on the drawings, it still would have been a huge pain to transfer that to your plate markings, wouldn't it?
14/16th? I love optimism, but it would be fun to know how often someone is accurate to the 16th of an inch when cutting with a skill saw, That's about half the width of a saw blade. I mean not sharpening your pencil could throw off your cut by a 16th. then add in just free cutting with a "Circular saw".
I was an officer 30 yrs ? Worked my way thru Det , Sgt, Training Sgt , then stopped at 50 with 2 degrees two teach ? I became a finish carpenter/ contractor ( solo). I am 66 now work 5/6 days a week and I am excited to work ! My passion is carpentry and outdoors. ( Church , love Christ) . No plans to retire ! Look at that guy ? Bored to young to be hanging out ! Men work ! Ok call him up and tell him you expect him to hv a job fast !
btw ya like the mechanical carpenters pencil that doesn't hold onto the lead?? Been there done that, its not that you're burning through lead, its that they are garbage and start letting the lead slip with even light pressure applied while writing.
I told you he was a communist now he wants us to use battery power instead of generators And before you know, he’s gonna have a windmill or solar panels stuck on his van😂
Add solar to your van's roof and You might be able to stop charging the Jackaray battery at night
Even better if you modify it to have a solar "truss" to have solar facing both east and west (presuming cab as _North_ ) and the solar panel is double faced (according to
Artisan Electrics) which will provide more electric
On a small project, there is no reason to delay a thorough review of the drawings before signing a contract or starting construction. Most requests for information can be resolved at the beginning before construction starts on small projects.
Great point!
I have had the same issue with Arch and Eng and most of the time structural Eng
In my opinion I see you are being very helpful and want to do it right
That’s cool watching you make this video. Never seen it before.
Was trying something different. Didn't know how it'd go.
"Now ...were ready for a high wind event ...or your mom" lolz
all my best jokes are from 3rd grade.
There a lot of window openings in that "box" so there are probably a lot of lateral loads ( shearwalls) to take into account ( especially if you are in a high seismic zone). Get a calculator and pen and do the math to prove the engineer over designed or get a third party review.
I dont' disagree, but compared to what our EOR would have spec'd......less of everything
Said every framer ever
This is a cool format for the video.
What specifically? I'm trying to get better at this.
@@AwesomeFramers I enjoyed the behind the scenes at the editing bay, and the extended time doing layout. It's all great content.
@@AwesomeFramers I can't ever recall you doing talking head at the computer before. Cutting to you or overlaying the footage; for where you normally do strictly voice over. So that was definitely new. Your voice over is always good because it expands more; what you didn't talk about live. It was cool when it cut you doing your voice over but also the segments where you directly talked to us. Added new layers and engaged the learning receptors differently. Basically like we were in the same room. So get to see all the visual cues and expressions and hand gestures. So an additional way that the content is digestible and understandable for the brain. So it was a cool new element and drove different points home a different way. I saw you have that dji gimbal. You have been making an effort lately and its surprising us and we notice & appreciate it. A good resource for learning more of the cinematic movements and angles + editing tricks is Fulltime Filmaker. Their youtube has tons of free resources. A resource for your broll efforts.
@@criss7998 Great feedback! It was a lot more work but not an insane amount. I'll try and keep doing it.
@@Fil-Leotardo Thanks! I never know what is going to be worth watching and what is boring.
For the best set of working drawings, find a building designer and engineer that has had at least one year of hands-on field experience working as a Carpenter or Tradesmen. Then, they understand what you need to start your layout and how to best utilize standard building material size and lengths.❤
But they lose their license if they get a callous on their dainty little hands
That wall looks symmetrical. If so, mark the plates for one side (left in your case), flip one plate to the other side, mark the plates on that side, and flip the plate back onto the left side. Just a suggestion...
This video made me think of you as the Alton Brown of framing
Was just thinking the other day Simpson should do an offline app for their catalog for looking up. Sometimes I’m not in cell data
I have said the same thing to them........more than once :-) They do have a downloadable PDF with links and a pretty good table of contents
@@AwesomeFramersroger that!
Yea I live and die by the pdfs I did or did not save on my phone before going to a remote site
we have had jobs where the folder of drawings done by us to clarify details is twice the size of the drawings from the architect or engineer, although we do renovation work so the whole process being a bit of a dialogue is somewhat more expected.
No you're not complaining. It is a complicated wall. I'd be right there with ya. Engineers should be working for the carpenter/framer more directly. They could have looked at that roof attached mid span of the wall and done a diaphragm sheeting section there (shear nailing on the roof sheets)
When framing I always use double studs on the sills, double jacks on anything over 6', and always put jacks under the double sills. Also, I liked getting to the job early to mark out the walls. It was quiet and no distractions for my pea brain.
We take an approach that rationally removes framing that isn't structurally needed to make the wall more thermally efficient.
Honestly, in complex walls, run large engineered headers or even steel, at the top instead of above each opening. Or a header 6ish feet to cover the load for both upoer and lower, the the wibdow and diir upoer header, then a 6ish foot header for both the upper and lower window again..
no wait, you’re looking at the wall from the other side, or is the SketchUp drawing is upside down. Ahh for get it, time to go home. Fresh start tomorrow. Lol
Put a couple panels on your truck! But never sunny in the Northwest!!
Ah, this is the house with the tight access road.
U dont need 2 max compressors. Can i have one😂😂
I hear you saying Kings go bottomplate up to topplate, yet you call the right hand side of the first 6060 window kings. And mark them on top plate even, where they won't end up.
Wasn't it a better solution to put in between top and bottom plate an extra piece of 2by material to act as a storypole thing for the hight between headers or even cut the headers and put them in there? Maybe after finishing all the true kingstuds layout so you can still use speedsquare to copy them from top to bottomplate.
And yes that wall looks horrible designed. The double kings are understandable from the fact that most of them are cut by a window up or down.
Very probably
Glad to see Nate is recovering! 1 mm from death & God spared him! Ryan you hv a nice new friend in Zach he looks up to you and you know why ! God is Good !
How many houses do you guys tend to knock out per year with your 2-3 man crew Tim?
We used to be able to get quite a few 5+ with siding, but now we are slow and in training mode. The market has been slow and we keep going through the 3rd person on the crew.
That framing is crying for Zip R!
Right?!
the top plate doesn't have to overlap in the corner when using that large screw? That's bound to simplify corners!
Exactly
I get your frustration with this and the complaining. Looking at it from the designer/engineer side, was the contract with you or the homeowner? Assuming homeowner, do you know what the terms/scope of the contract were? I have had many owners cut out the designer and engineer during construction because they didn’t want to pay and expected the builder to “figure it out”. Nobody wants to work for free and take on liability they weren’t paid to deal with. Did they not do their job or did the client not want to pay for work that should have been done? Just want to understand how much of this truly falls on design team before throwing them under the bus.
If the drawings are sealed then the Engineers takes the liability for the structure with them to their grave, not the framer or contractor, something a lot of people dont understand. In my professional opinion this building was not over designed.
We were handed the project with drawings from an architect, engineers's stamp and permits. There is $100k in this project that wouldn't be there if we had been hired earlier.
@@AwesomeFramers that doesn’t surprise me. I hate it when the people actually building the project aren’t involved early in the design. Those projects always seem to cost more and not as nice as they could have been if the whole team was involved from the beginning.
Agree@@drumswest5035
@@AwesomeFramers😂 bs flag on this one
Tim. Thank you. I just had engineering done on a tandem garage, 12'-0" span, 5:12 that I not only designed, but I am slated to frame it. (Hansville, Kitsap Co) Super easy. The rookie apprentice spec'd crazy simpson that I've never needed before in 25 years of hand-cut roof framing. I'm so pissed, that I told the builder to go with trusses and save money.....on a 12 foot span....totally nuts. It seems the eng has no practical framing experience. You've inspired me to make a video about it. The art of stick-framing is being squeezed out of the process due to inept (scared) over engineering.
I actually intended to do a video on how to correspond with the engineer and ask questions/collaborate. It was going great until the responses died.
Sometimes there are issues that a framer is not aware of. In a high seismic area framing can get complicated with hold downs , strapping etc. The engineer has to take liability for the building, not the contractor or framer. This may be a box but there are a lot of windows that will affect the lateral.
@@drumswest5035 Stick framed roof skills is being squeezed out in favor of trusses, because the modern engineer OVER engineers.
What sort of service life do you hope for for a battery unit like that? do you have any sense of the charge cycles you can expect?
from Jackery "Built to last, the Jackery 2000 v2’s LiFePO₄ battery offers a long lifespan, providing durability for up to ten years of daily use."
I know codes vary but I'm most confused about the single jacks under the 6'0 headers. I thought for sure that span requires doubles, especially with the added weight of the window opening loads landing on them. Am I missing something? Does the future porch ledger carry some of that?
I sent a question to you about a week ago on what pressure do you run that max pro light at? and which compressor do you use. Here every day compressor only goes out to 200 psi. Thanks, Sean .
Some of the max nailers only work with the max 500 psi compressor. And I run mine at 180-210psi depending on what nails I am using and which gun.
@@larsmils2994 thank you
@@larsmils2994 love your content, keep it coming.
Shoot, sorry bro. We keep the compressor about 280psi unless we are running the concrete nailer, then we crank to 300-305
should have split the lower wall layout to the bottom plate and the upper wall layout to the top plate....either way its confusing. did something simular with a baloon wall. luckily it was short
That was a complex wall, but do you feel like once you had the left side done, the right side should have been a no brainer? And about that Jackery, how long can you leave those dormant? Will the batteries in them degrade a lot over time, if not used regularly? And further to that, how often would be considered "regularly"? THey seem like a very good "rainy day" item, but pretty pricey to have them not function when you pull them off the shelf after an extended period of not being used? I have so many questions, but I'll leave it at that for now! Thanks, and keep up the excellent work!
Yes, it should have been a no brainer, but I'm losing confidence in myself as I get older.
On the Jackery, they recommend charging to 70% for battery longevity. On our Tesla Model Y, we charge to 80% for daily driving and 100 if we road trip.
How do I order and what do I ask for I want a tool belt the same as Kyle’s with the shoulder straps?
Kyle has suspenders from Akribis If you want the ridge I wear from Badger, email Badger and talk to the custom shop. Tell them Awesome Framers specifications.
Do you have an opinion on the max super framer and the max pro light high pressure coil nailer. It would be a lot to buy the pro light and have to buy the high-pressure compressor as opposed to just buying the coil framer, your thoughts, please.
I absolutely love the HN90F and have used them since 2008. The regular pressure Max stick nailer is a great nailer. It really comes down to cost. I don't mind paying for the higher price for the coild nailer because it improves production.
That was WAY more complicated than it needed to be. Are they really relying on a coupler net to hold all that? What's a grade 2 nut hold? I think you need a long ship auger then you could drill down from above with out all the busy work below.
5/8-11 x 13/16 x 2 1/8 A563 Grade A Hex Coupling Nut
This nut has a minimum tensile strength of 60,000 psi and is made from 1010-1018 equivalent steel
Yes coupler nuts are a tested assembly and used for many decades now. Always a little trippy looking at it
You’re not annoying.
You’re detail oriented and focused on doing quality work.
Seems the engineer cannot relate to a person dedicated to quality.
After talking to a few different people, I think someone in the office just puts boiler plate details on the plans. Most of them didn't apply, but there was no way for me to know. The answer I kept getting was "good catch, this doesn't apply to this project".
Wow, that was pretty painful.
I’m taking it that was the bottom plate and the middle plate that you were laying out, then you lay out the top plate later, is my guess? I’ll never understand why people don’t lay out all three plates at the same time.
• So when you were laying out the top windows, why do you mark the bottom plate for the jack and stud that land on the headers? By doing it the way you’re doing, making marks on the bottom plate that don’t need to be there, makes it very confusing for the framer.
• Also pick an identifier and stick with it, don’t keep changing symbols. On one sided opening you mark a “T” for the trimmer and on the other side you mark a “J” for jack. You did that several different times.
•I honestly didn’t see anything difficult about that layout, I don’t know why you were brain farting all over the place.
• Also just put seal seal down around between the sill plate and the foundation. It really takes hardly anytime and it helps keep the insects out, even though we spray foam insulate the box joist we still put down sill seal.
• The other painful thing was a FIVE minute commercial, but I skipped right over that.
It's pretty wildly different between some engineers and their interpretation of special structure details. I have found that in my area the older engineers that some are now retired. Their designs are far far more practical and simple, more cost efficient to build. The newer engineering companies are building way over and above what use to be the standard. Why? It's probably an insurance thing on their end, also schooling to new and more stringent standards. Ultimately the end client gets bill. Much higher bill. Spec builders get squeezed and don't make as much profit. What's right? IDK, but how many 1970's houses with zero engineering and built far far lower strength wise have blown down or had problems? Idk but I've never seen one fail
my 1966 house, one owner before me. I've had it 2.5 years. 2x12s on 12" center, 20' span for first and second floor. both of those floors are sagging 2" in center of house where the stairwell is and floors are so bouncy i can't jump up and down without things falling off shelves. the next section of my house the floor is sagging because they thought triple 2x8 beam could span 18'. in the garage i have a triple 2x12 beam on 24' span supporting a second floor and gamble roof. that is about 1.5" down in the middle. So keep thinking it was fine without engineers.
@@theJonnymacI concur, old houses are trash lol. new houses can be bad too, but there are fewer things to go wrong when built to the modern code
That seems really complicated for what you are building.
Whats the name of the marking pencil you are using?
PicaDry Big or something like that
Impressive how wasteful this build appeared when comparing it to your normal advanced framing
It is quite a Tony stark contrast
YOU KNOW WHY THERE ARE NO ARCHITECTS OR ENGINEERS IN HEAVEN TIM?….WHY IS THAT ORIEN?….CUZ JESUS WAS A CARPENTER..
Lol that's sums it up. I know more eng, architects that never do anything wrong...well carpenters too but the other guys get paid to draw😂
I’m dying. I’m gonna use this forever
Do you do any work in the Kansas City area?
Nope.
Haven't seen a decent set of prints in 20 years. Just a bumch if kids copying and pasting plans together.
I am Not trying to offend an awesome framer, but have you ever done a SIP project? I have heard the SIP manufacturer and their precision either makes or breaks the project. Some SIP manufactures are good some are... not so good.
Nope, I've heard good and bad about them. I'm game to try one.
Maybe the engineer was designing for a tsunami. Seriously though, every time I would try to lay out specific framing requirements on my drawings (beginning with hold-down anchor rods on the foundation plan, dimensioned to the nearest 1/8") the contractor would tell me they did it their way--cuz they had a left-over 6x6 from another job, and wouldn't that be stronger than a 4x6? etc.
This wall looks supremely annoying to engineer, and that got passed on to you. If every stick of framing had been dimensioned on the drawings, it still would have been a huge pain to transfer that to your plate markings, wouldn't it?
You leave my mama outa this
14/16th? I love optimism, but it would be fun to know how often someone is accurate to the 16th of an inch when cutting with a skill saw, That's about half the width of a saw blade. I mean not sharpening your pencil could throw off your cut by a 16th. then add in just free cutting with a "Circular saw".
Welcome to the channel 14/16 is 7/8 it's just the way they communicate everything is in 16ths. Though they use an 1/8 tolerance on cuts.
I was an officer 30 yrs ? Worked my way thru Det , Sgt, Training Sgt , then stopped at 50 with 2 degrees two teach ? I became a finish carpenter/ contractor ( solo). I am 66 now work 5/6 days a week and I am excited to work ! My passion is carpentry and outdoors. ( Church , love Christ) .
No plans to retire ! Look at that guy ? Bored to young to be hanging out ! Men work !
Ok call him up and tell him you expect him to hv a job fast !
btw ya like the mechanical carpenters pencil that doesn't hold onto the lead?? Been there done that, its not that you're burning through lead, its that they are garbage and start letting the lead slip with even light pressure applied while writing.
Its the PicaDry Big or Large or XL or something like that, I love it
@@AwesomeFramers wait till you try the Pica Bug Ink markers!! I really like them.
If you don't need them don't use them!!!!!!!!!!
Im sorry, i dont have 2000 people in my contact list.
Looks like the engineer was trying to justify his existence.
....dad??...
Your momma can hold you down.
a long long time ago maybe 🤣
This is like a poor copy of the “Brown cottage, Jekyll island”, you want to see real architecture, google that.
So why don't you post the arcitects and engineer's names so everyone knows to stay away from them and not waste their money.
I believe that is bad form
I told you he was a communist now he wants us to use battery power instead of generators And before you know, he’s gonna have a windmill or solar panels stuck on his van😂
I'm not sure how this shows I'm a "communist". I am indeed a pragmatist though. Last I checked our party didn't have much support.
engineers are A holes