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Our Volvo 240 Will Not Start! What is going on?!?!
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- Опубликовано: 18 мар 2023
- We cant get Monica our 240 to start! She just will not go. It is almost like she doesn't want to leave the shed. She has been running fine from a remote fuel bottle but now everything is hooked up again she just won't fire. What is going on??? We just don't know!
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#willitstart #restoration #volvo240
If the spark plugs are still getting wet when cranking, try burning them with a lighter while wet. Just to make sure the fuel actually burns. Could be bad gas/condensation
A quick check if the ignition works, spray brake cleaner into the carburetor, then the engine should start.
It looks like you have old gas in the tank, which I read earlier in the comments, try if the gas ignites if you, (outside), hold a flame close to it.
You've probably already got it running, but in case you haven't I'd discount the spark testing you were doing on the strut top as that's not really a good earth anyway, so the spark would have looked weaker. One thing it's worth doing is hooking up a timing gun to each lead to check it is actually sparking, because it takes more strength for a spark to ignite under compression than it does in the atmosphere, so if you have a weak spark, it might still be able to jump when you've removed the plug.
The pressure you had up to the carb looked a bit excessive to me, though! Sure it's not overfueling to the point it can't ignite?
Nope still not got it started. Think you're spot on though, it's over fueled and washed the bores so we've lost compression. New fuel pump arrived today and we'll do a compression test. Oil is very fuely so it's all pointing to that. Just got to find a few spare hours now!
Did you check the fuse holder in the front, usually that is the problem it is by the battery cables and where the coil is
Brutal man, the frustration must he immense. I'm no expert, but fingers pointing towards duff fuel or timing/firing order now 🤞😎
I can see what looks like arcing on the coil lead at the distributor end when you're cranking change the lead from the coil to the distributor cap or make sure all the leads are pushed fully into the cap under the boots on the leads and check the continuity between the leads end to end, also put a spark plug on the end of the coil lead to check delivery of sparks to the cap centre post, i think some of the leads are not fully into the cap, check continuity between the contacts inside the cap and the end of the ignition leads that go on the plugs to see if you have not connected ones, it wont start if its only firing on number one cylinder
Check the Mass airflow sensor. Replaced mine, it fired up. Checked crank and cam sensors if it equipped. My Volvo 240 1986 and earlier model do not have these sensors.
stop the fuel drain carb and try panel wipe brake clean or propane as fuel strait into carb throat see if it fires be carful as some panel wipe and brake clean becomes toxic when burned so good extractor or outside if it fires its your carb/petrol the float may be stuck over filling and flooding
There are two fuel pumps in the volvo 240, one in the tank and one primary pump. You should test if the intank pump works; the car can run without it working, but only when you have over around half a tank of gas.
Hey Lewis,
Got a little handy dandy tip you’ll maybe like. If you take a short (about 1-2 meter)piece of electric cable and put a crimp terminal on it on one side and the other side you strip the insulation back a little. Than remove the wire on the starter motor solenoid and put the just made cable on it. If you than press the other side against the plus terminal of your battery your car will crank/start. Now you can easier check things going on in the engine bay when you are cranking the engine when alone. Hope it helps and she’ll be a runner soon! You can even fancy it up and make it with a switch ofcourse. Good luck!
Good tip, thanks for that. Always such a pain doing these kind of jobs single handed!
@@WhitelandRestorations It is, but that makes it way easier. You don’t have to film what’s happening and than watch the film you just made to see what is going on. I know the struggle. When I found out you can just power the starter coil I was beyond happy! Haha. She already runs??
@@Pttterr That tip is very good. The thing is Volvo puts a test terminal for the starter at the firewall on these cars. You just put a switched wire from the battery 12v to the test terminal and you can crank when needed. It is a single wire terminal hanging unconnected on the firewall.
Check the carb diaphragm it may have a hole in it can’t be much wrong with it as it was running before
Sounds like timing might be seriously out or leads mixed up. Chandelier the oil after all that cranking. Put the air filter on , might be to much air going in
Timing and leads all checked and good!
Oh the frustration Lewis. Fear not! I particularly liked the humourous continuous cranking over at the end during the credits.
Did you say that it was running on a bottle of petrol? Was that before or after you cleaned up the engine bay? I always go back to basics. Fuel, spark and compression all required and need to be in the correct place. I have seen engines run on a petrol soaked rag so if there is fuel in the float bowl and the carb look clean you will be very unlucky for it not to try starting, but yours does not sound like it is firing. I suggest easy start through the carb, if it fires then you can say the spark is good and in the right place. But easy start will work with a weak spark, just bear that in mind. If you have spark and it won't run on easy start you need to check compression, but yours sound good and it did run so I suggest check where the spark is. The easiest way I've found is strobe light on number 1 and look at the timing marks. At cranking speeds you can see if it is sparking in about the right place. If you decide it is weak spark then it a case of seeing how large a gap the spark can jump. Long screw up the plug cap and space it 1/4" from an earth. If it cannot jump that try the same on just the coil lead. Also if your worried about engine earth just clamp a jump lead to the engine and the battery earth. On a side note modern fuel goes off and on motorbike it iscarb engines that suffer worse that injected. The belief is that ethanol evaporates and injection pumps push the bad fuel through better. Not sure if that is all true but if a bike is standing for more than a month they often don't start until new fuel is used. But easy start will rule all that out. The reason I say easy start is because some newer brake and carb cleaners do not burn. Good luck if you have not already fix it.
What's the gap on those spark plugs? .028" is stock plug gap. Lots of plugs are off the shelf with larger gaps than what volvo uses. Once they are fouled you may just want to change the spark plugs in any case. The other old mechanics trick for fouled spark plugs is to use a lighter to burn the fuel off the plugs. Then regap. I saw a guy do this on a 1920s Buggati and it worked and let him continue racing. 😎
Had a similar problem with a 240 up on Hartshead Moor on the M62. At night. In the loneliest place on Earth.
Cambelt gone.
However, your compression seems to be ok judging by the sound of the starter, so I would check your timing.
At least we are in the shed....wouldn't want to be out on the moors in the dark! ooof!
Does she have points or electronic ignition? If points, clean and adjust gap. Or possibly carburettor float stuck and not shutting off excess fuel?
It sounds like something is not plugged in. I would start by spraying carb cleaner directly into the intake to rule out a fuel delivery issue and/or bad gas. If that doesn't help, make sure the car doesn't have an inertia switch. I know Volvo uses them, but I'm not sure what models have them. Then check your fuses and relays. Make sure they are not only good, but none are missing. From there I would check to see if the vehicle has any type of security system. Even something as simple as a hood lock has an ignition kill switch built in. Then check relative compression and fuel pressure. If the problem persists, you may have to start tracing some wires.
Fuel was being pumped to the carb in large volumes.
@@markstott6091 That doesn't rule anything out. He didn't give a lot of details, so some of my suggestions were guesses.
However, if it runs from a remote bottle, there's a really good chance the car has bad gas. Also, just because a lot of fuel is being dumped into carb doesn't mean its all getting unto the firing chamber. Most carbs have unloaders. The carb itself could be damaged, as well.
Also, it looks like these guys are into restorations. That usually means they do mostly body and interior work. Judging on how he was presenting information in the video, its likely that he doesn't have a lot of experience diagnosing drivability issues. If its running off a bottle, I could figure out what's wrong with in 10-15 minutes. I think he said someone is coming to look at it. If he's good with engine diagnostics, he'll find the issue right away. So many things have already been eliminated. For example, most of the posters think its a timing issue. Its not possible. The engine runs fine from a remote fuel source. It can't be timing.
timming belt left the party
Maybe check compression? Often flooring the go pedal while cranking can help clear a folded engine.
Going to check compression in the morning!
Im assuming you have ran a compression check? I forgot to adjust my valves when had a head skimmed once and didnt have compression and once i sorted that it fired straight away. Good luck 👌
You might wanna have a look at your engine mounts as well! Gee that engine shakes rather a lot when you crank.
Swap to the LH2.4 system. Very reliable and the best system Volvo ever did use. Cheap parts. I like this, even my 144 and my old Amazon I did swap to the LH2.4 system. Yes, on a B20. Best results.
P.S. the LH2.2 is awfully, don't use this one.
No we're going to change to different carbs but we want it running before we do anything first
Not sure if your 240 has an ignition amplifier, possibly that if fitted, mine has but its a 2.3 with K Jet , just a thought
I just love the look of this car. Oh those headlights.
Thank you very much! At least they work 😂
@@WhitelandRestorationsI so want them too but don't have the energy to make them up :(
What sidelight bulbs are you running?
Check the plug leads are in the right place. Ask me how I know this could be the issue.
How do you know..... 😂
did you try sparying brake cleaner in the intake - carb ?
If it starts, then you know you have a fuel issue... if not then the issue is spark
Very easy and helpful and fast diy trouble shooting.
Not all brake cleaner is flammable. Carb cleaner is. I would use that instead. But its a good suggestion. I would do that first.
@@AT-wl9yq i dont know of any brake cleaner that isent flamable.. but the best and fastes way for telling in what direction you go
If it gets fuel, I can only think of vaccum leaks or more likely defective points / capacitor on the ignition distributor. Consider replacing the original one with an electronic distributor from 123 ignition or hot spark. Can't remember if the b230a engine uses an ignition controle module... it can also cause problems :-)
Its already got electronic ignition from factory its got a bosch TCI coil
I had a 2.3 volvo 740 which had terrible running issues.Did everything you did but ultimately there was a split vacuum pipe that I think came off the carb ?
Check the fuel pump relay in behind the glove box (known to have cracked solder joints even if new) or the blade fuse on the left fender by the shock tower.
It's a mechanical fuel pump on it not electronic.
sounds like the timings out, ask your wife to turn the car over and you turn the dizzy cap slowly left or right mite start to fire up
Can't turn the dizzy.... It's stuck solid in the block so the timing hasn't moved!
Leaking fuel injectors?
I can't remember, but didn't the carb have a rubber diaphragm in it ?
Has it split ?
Worth a quick check 👍
Good, strong spark is it consistent to each cylinder? . Fuel is getting to the cylinders. Is the fuel good?. Might there be moisture in it?.
Is the dizzy secure? if not it could have advanced/retarded moved etc.
You could try eliminating the fuel, by disconnecting the supply and dropping some known good fuel down the carb and try starting without the air filter, just to eliminate any issues there. Also try drawing some carb cleaner through directly into the carb bowl with the plugs out.
Its not a fuel shortage, the plugs are wet through. So it can't be a breather issue.It could could however be a sticking shut off valve in the carb, which is causing flooding.
Failing all the suggestions, it's looking like a timing issue, am wondering if that cough you heard threw the belt out of whack.
Look at the carb, strip it and clean it, because it seems like your problem is she's getting too much fuel.
Great video, must be disheartening for you but, good luck.
One of those "Head Banging" Scenario times. I've checked this. That and the Other. No Joy. You will get there in the end and no doubt, it will be. Why didn't I think of that earlier. 🤷♂🤷♂
Check relays
Remove the spark plugs and rotate the engine by hand to place No 1 piston at dead centre on it's compression stroke. Then check that the distributor radius arm is pointing towards the cap contact that is connected to the plug lead that is connected to the spark plug feeding cylinder No 1.
Yes, double check the right cylinder is getting the right spark, and that the timing is approximately correct.
Hi Lewis, I gave my mechanic your number today cuz he's got a customer with a Ford Escort mk 5 ?that needs a new floor pan welding in & then wants the car completely re-sprayed. So I mentioned you would probably do the lot, hope that was OK,
The 144 of a friend of mine didn't want to start anymore. My friend doesn't have any idea of how a car works. Funny. But his mechanic did find out: camshaft worn out or broken...
You have spark, that’s confirmed, you have fuel, that’s confirmed, so has the overfuelling washed the bores clean of oil so no compression? Had that on a Maestro once with its silly auto choke that didn’t like very cold weather. But....could also be like my Hijet van that did the same....ended up being just one small wire from battery connection that fed the ECU... common fault...no ECU...no run!
We're going to do a full compression test tomorrow! Might be the reason.... Worth checking!
@Whiteland Restorations Don't discount anything, I discounted the wire breaking as I had sorted it once before...after removing an alarm system to prove that wasn't it...turned out it was the wire again! Looking forward to the next installment, fingers crossed for you.
check the module for the ignition, corrision makes bad contact
Sorry on the Bosch Distributor Rotor Arm 👍
Take the Distributor cap off get the king lead from the coil and holding over the rotor arm ,get someone to turn it over if you get a spark the Rotor arm is cracked inside and Earthing out a common Breakdown 👍
New arm, cap and King lead to eliminate all that but we will check again!
No problem, The only way to make sure 👍
It's a comedy thing? Yes timing is everything 👍❤️
Ha! Ba boom
Did you check that you have the correct wires connected to the correct cylinder banks/spark plugs? The firing order has to match.
Firing order checked and all good!
2:44 eeek I would have got rid of the petrol container and rinsed that area with water before attempting any reassembly, just one stray spark from metal to metal `contact would do it.
Radiator doesn't look properly mounted.
I would check the plug gaps and not to the manufacturers instruction, a bigger or smaller gap can make all the difference.try a spray of cold start into the carb?
We're alright.... We didn't explode 😂 The radiator is proper mounted now. Gaps have all been checked!
You need to swear violently at it and jump around glowing red for a while ! Probably won’t fix it but it’ll make you feel better 🤣 sorry I can’t offer any advice Lewis I don’t know anything worth knowing about cars really but I like watching your vids 👍
I suppose you have resistans before the coil? Test to bypass that..its on the right side on the inner fender
New coil it... Spark all good
@@WhitelandRestorations whats good..my brother had a 240 and that going so long ju turn the key..and then he let loose the key it dies..zero the ignition and you have fuel and spark..it should start..and probably you have chance the cambelt?but if that is wrong you should have missfire.but there is nothing..wierd.one time a was young many people had try to start one datsun (Nissan now) the problem i found was a condensator to eliminate distraktions on the radio on the generator..i losen that and it start.so it can be anything..one time my brother persisted me to change the condensator. And his car gone about 7 miles and ut stops..so i gioing home and take the Ola condensator and chance it..wierd it was a warm day..
Im no mechanic but that sounds like points have slipped or timing is off.
I had that on my 1st mini, my dad came to the rescue with a simple screwdriver.
Timing all good but it's back on the list to check!
This reminds me of doing a service on my Allegro in about 1978, I had never serviced a car so as well as the bits needed I bought a Haynes manual and followed it religiously, After I finished doing the oil, filters, plugs points, etc. I went to start the engine, and three hours later my brother-in-law turned up, I asked him if he had any suggestions as to why it wasn't starting, and he pointed out an insulating washer from the dizzy sitting on the air cleaner! It was only the first of my many car maintenance failures.
Really funny with the washer 😂
It's got to be something simple hasn't it! 😂
Help needed !!
We've had other eyes look it over.... Stay tuned!
It's obviously where it's been in the company of a few knackered Citroën's from "you know who" and they're starting to affect the Volvo.
Did you figure out the problem?
Yep we did! Pesky ignition amplifier was dead with an intermittent fault!
It may just be flooded now, I've found it can be pretty hard to clear out a flooded redblock.
We've cleared it out with air jets.... Still nothing! Grrrrr
Check the king lead spark first, then check 2 plugs.. If it still won't start then maybe the firing order..
It's all good on the sparky side.....
Distributer arm on back to front?
timing? Distributor 180 degrees out
Nope... All good as far as we can see
Is the fuel any good? Looked a bit yellow to me
Funny thing... That's new fuel! It started eating the fuel lines so we had to change them out.... Again!
Plug leads out of order; timing belt slipped; rotor arm failed internally; low tension lead from coil to distributor failed internally. Maybe!
Could it be the plugs are weak and failing?
Well at least the battery seems strong on it!
We've even put a new one on since then!
@@WhitelandRestorations Mine had a terribly abused optima redtop in it. rest voltage was at 8.5v! Cranked about one revolution per second, but still started every time, on the first or second revolution.
Carb Diaphragm may have a split
Feel for you mate :(
We'll get there in the end!
check the compression
Going to check compression tomorrow and report 👍
Have you tried transplanting a VW diesel engine into the car? It will run without issue and will always pass the emissions test too 🤔
as with the original B230A ;)
Timing!
How's the compression.
We're going to give that a check tomorrow!
@@WhitelandRestorations give her a bit more pep. Maybe a 5 cylinder T5 lump?
Come on Monica!!
Come oooooooonnnnnnn MONICA!
Order of spark plug wiring
Timing issue 100%
Some people change the dizzy cap and leads without doing it one by one and end up with a no start timing issue. I'm sure you haven't done that. I think it could be two things. 🙂
Leads are all good. Checked and double checked
Bore wash or horrifically out timing? This reminds me of 'lawnmower syndrome' the Volvo 850 suffered from.
Could be a possibility! Compression check tomorrow
try easy start
Done.... Nothing
@@WhitelandRestorations Never mind check the wiring in the dash department might be a wire link not connected or immobiliser ? i would start from there and work back to the engine i;m just guessing as i'm not with the car. then go the the crab or injectors
Check the CRANK POSITION SENSOR. The signal wire will crack over time from how violent the start up is.
It's a carbureted car, it doesn't have one.
So close but no proverbial cigar 🙄👍
She just doesn't want to leave the shed!
I'm getting furious driving rover V8 dejavu here 🙁
Is the engine bolted down 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Does love a wobble doesn't it 😂
Timing belt might be broken.
Checked.... All good!
I assumed u were competent mechanic surely u fixed it's fuel
Never said we were Mechanics, we are professional fabrication and bodywork. We are however capable amateur mechanics.
@@WhitelandRestorations mmmm u need a really gd mechanic then who's got the gift to identify