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Thanks for the video. Ive done my own toe alignments for years and just eyeballed it. Only took it to the alignment shop for the camber as ive never done it before but now i see its not as difficult as i thought. I desperately need to attempt to fix the camber on my envoy before the new tires are destroyed. Alignment shops all tell me have to replace the control arms and joints but they wanted over $1200(i bought the parts from Detroit-axel for $80).My mechanic is too busy on my car to get to my envoy rt now so ill try this for a short save til i can get the parts changed and a proper alignment. Thanks
Fantastic video guys - thank you SO much. I have just bought this tool after watching your video... and it has shown the garage to be inaccurate. Sure I cannot ensure level ground, but it will give an accurate difference between the wheels each side, and as it is the DIFFERENCE between camber that is dangerous, the +4 degrees of camber difference (!) I found using this tool, explains why my car drove out of the garage pulling to the right :) It is worth mentioning that whilst some of the 4-wheel alignment rigs at a garage are good, they are only good if they are regularly calibrated and the operator knows how to use them properly. It is worth spending $30 on one of these just to check for peace of mind. Again - great video guys. I am very happy for the effort you made in uploading this video. Very clear.
Good video, I'd say it's the best I've seen yet for camber adjustment. At first I thought why would you have to reverse and pull forward again but I guess when you drop it down off the jack the tire could be bound a bit, just enough the raise or lower the suspension on that side throwing the level off enough to give an inaccurate reading.
Great video bro! I think it's a reliable procedure as long as it is done correctly, for me it is difficult to find a perfect flat ground area since this is what the lever tool depends on.
These guys are only trying to help, If you don't like their method, do it your own way, he said make sure you are on level ground ! all you have to do is listen not blab!
To maintain camber when you change the struts, you should get the exact degrees when the car is jacked up with stands, after that remove the tire and change the struts, when complete check the camber degree, adjust it from its original degrees when you first checked the degree, while the car is still jacked up. This way you wont lose the camber alignment
nice tips, thanks dude...so we record the degrees before we changing any related parts..even it its not fully level i think its still better than misalign
Computerised wheel alignment can be faulty too, so this a good way to save you money, wheel alignments is somewhat expensive, I'd rather do it myself if I could
yeah, wheel alignment is expensive if you consider you need wheel alignment after changing tyre..then after some time your wheel bearing broke..and the your drive shaft broke...changing those faulty part and everytime you change you need to do chamber alignmen...if you changing those at tyre shop maybe they give u a little bit of discount. But if you do it yourself or do at others mechanic who doesnt have computer calibration setup, after changing and you go to others tyre shop they usually charge you quite amount of money
Local garages always find suspension parts or motor mounts that need to be replaced (they say) before they will do an alignment. So I do not have the $400 to $600 estimated cost. So I go home having spent money for no alignment and no repair. This is why I want to do things myself while trying to allow for some parts wear that I may be able to live with. I still do not buy the technician’s argument that worn motor mounts will alter the wheel alignment. I can often get my alignment close enough and improved over what I had. These videos here do not address that the camber reset throws the toe-in off. The toe-in then has to be reset.
Ideally vehicle should be level side to side and front to back. Weight distribution will impact ride height and ride height is key contributor to camber variation. Camber adjustment should be good if vehicle not more than 2 - 3* from level. Setting vehicle tires on ramps or boxes will load vehicle suspension and be at normal ride height. Adjust level with wood pieces under tire(s) where needed. The camber gauge needs to be zeroed. If rear is a solid axle (not independent), you could zero gauge from rear rotor. Zero gauge with gauge pointing to right for right side measurement and to the left before measuring the left side. If independent rear, zero from a horizontal or vertical reference on the vehicle frame. Just use a square on horizontal surface to give you a vertical reference when zeroing gauge. If vehicle not level side to side, when you zero your gauge, the gauge will then give you accurate measurement of camber. Hope this info provides additional insight on getting accurate measurements and good results. Don't forget to measure toe after making camber adjustments.
Disculpa una consulta,en el piso la rueda marca,-1/4 negativo, y elevado poniendo el calibrador magnético -1 1/4 grados negativo a cuántos grados dejo el calibrador aflojando y ajustando los pernos del amortiguador Macpherson, para que en el piso quede la rueda a 0° grados gracias
Need to put the tool in a straight and level wall or visaversa calibrate the tool than use it , I have the same or similar it’s on the instructions then you can get your readings, hope it’s helps!
Hey, I like your show, I am working on a 335i. Let me add, I find the cheap camber tool does not give repeatable results. To fix, I opened the center section by removing the pin; I cut two coils out of the tension spring to reduce pressure on the adjustment screw; I changed the adjustment screw to a M7 1.0 for accurate movement; the bubble tube was loose in the center section due to bad glue on either end so I repositioned the tube and added good adhesive on the ends - these changes gave me within 1/8 degree repeatability. Hope you see this. Thanks
for people using this tool, you must absolutely make sure the car is perfectly level left to right. And you have to rest the car on the knuckles to put the strut into the position as if it was sitting on the wheels. This requires some common sense and carpentry skills which many dont really have.
@LeonL47 as long as you raise the one side underneath the lowest control arm so it lifts the whole wheel as well. and then either using a bubble level or laser level on the roof of the car to make sure the car stays level and you're not jacking the one side too much. To be honest, its a good gimmick but requires too much effort. Id rather just pay the 60 bucks and get it done right by a pro.
Great tool to use and I'm saying it by experience BUT some tips for everyone going of what I use to do with my drift car changing it from track to road. Most importantly make sure your ground is 100% level Jack your car up from the cross member or each wheel and place stands under a good spot that bares weight on your suspension on BOTH side of the car and lower the car onto the stands. You now have full weight on your car like you would if the wheel were still on. In the case of race cars or drift cars with rear adjustable camber put the whole car on stands baring all the weight on all four sections were you can put full weight on the suspension as if the wheels where still on the car. Make sure that all stands are at the exact same height if your not sure use a ruler or tape measure to check your stand height. Also make sure you place your stands in the exact same position on you car on both sides. Once all wheel are off the ground simply take your rims off place your camber tool on each wheel and adjust it until your hearts contempt. Please be carful when unbolting tight nuts or bolts and remember the car is fully dependent on the stands so make sure they are in a good spot and be safe. I always placed extra stands under the chassis barring no weight just incas. Hope this helps you guys but the tool is a great tool and works well when use right. Good luck and please like this comment so it stay up the top for everyone else to be able to use this tool correctly. If I missed anything please feel free to comment and teach me a few things
Greenfire 317 then you won't get a very good outcome obviously. You could try using the stands to level out the car as much as possible but I really wouldn't advice doing it that way.
Jason Johnston well my buddies garage isn't level but it is flat. I was thing of stretching a 2x4 or 4x4 across from side to side and using jack stands to support that
Level ground is a nice starting point but I wouldn't assume the car to be level from measuring the height of your axle stands. The only way to make sure it's level, or at least in the same position as last time, is to use a spirit level.
Feature request: video on how to use a digital angle gauge for the same purpose. And then also another one for using the aluminum plates with the same (ex: Tenhulzen Automotive 2-Wheel Alignment Tool ) :)
hello good video, but i think you forget to explain how to make the zero before use (take a vertical reference and set the bubble to 0 and after using it).
fyi, if you're going to use this gauge you need to pay attention to both spirit levels in the tool. I noticed that when you made your measurement that you did not rotate the gauge to get it level. Not doing so will give you an incorrect camber reading. I would also think that the vehicle needs to be sitting on a level surface for it to be accurate.
if you have like 1m piece of plank wood or something straight you can lay it on the ground and check if it is level, otherwise you could substract the angle. alternatively you could check the initial angles with the car facing forward then backwards as calculate what angle you need to substract/add. for example you have -1 both wheels and ground is tilted 0.2 to the right then you will measure -1.2/-0.8 forward and -0.8/-1.2 facing backwards. the real angle is the average: -1/-1 then the tilt -0.8-(-1)=0.2
The alignment shop I go to says they can't adjust the camber on my car; so I bought some camber bolts to replace my upper strut bolts but all the other instructions I found online said you needed alignment equipment to install them. That basically makes the camber bolts useless to me since I don't have the equipment, the method shown in the video may be a good solution to the problem though, but I think mine are off on both sides, right side is probably worse though because I glanced off a cement barrier the first summer I owned my car. The alignment has been scewy since then even with aligments at the shop my car pulls slightly to the right if I don't keep my hands on the wheel. The boots on my CV axle at the very least on the left side are busted so I also get vibration on the freeway at around 65mph that lessens if I stay on the freeway for a while. I also have some brake squeak and possible slight rotor warp on the right rear. Got to look into fixing all this soon as I borrow a jack and some stands. Thanks for the video this method might be worth a try; and since the place I have lifetime alignment at said they don't install camber bolts I don't want to go to a different place and have to pay to get them installed.
thank you this is the tools that’s i Understand how to used them to do wheels Alignments most peoples doing a shit jobs just to keep its goings because they can’t afford go to the mechanic important don’t brings your girls friends or your wife with you while you driving test it’s first to make sure not one’s off the wheels if fells apart
Do I need to buy a special camber bolt to do this camber adjustment? In this video they didn't use the special camber bolt to do adjustment at all. They pulled the brake-disc system by hands and a hammer. I guess it worked out for them.
that can't be right now as you adjusted the screw underneath the gauge. Isn't the screw to calibrate zero deg on a known true vertical BEFORE you use it?
I have bought the same tool off Aliexpress. The tool is NOT SET TO ZERO, out of the box, as it has a knurled knob adjustment, and it is preset a some random angle. How did you set it to zero ? I can only think that I would have to stick it to a calibrated perfectly vertical surface and then zero the bubble with the knob ? How did you do this ?
Quick question: any issues/impact if i set -1.5 camber to ONLY my front wheels using caliber bolts? Primary aim is to tuck in about 8mm of the 20mm pole to ensure i clear fenders on max suspension travel. Rear would remain stock on my BRZ.
This may be the first time I saw a RUclips channel with an automotive name use a factory tire iron to remove lugnuts. I guess everyone has to start somewhere, right? Also, when using a bubble guage of any type, you go by the center of the bubble, not the edge...
Only the front has to be level. So any bad Bushings. Springs. Shocks will screw the results. Why you have to measure the frame to ground clearance first. If it's out of spec. You're alignment is not set. I'm more worried about toe. As tie rods wear out and eat tires like candy!
Buenas noches, una consulta tengo un auto con sistema Macpherson en el piso marca -1/4° negativo y colocado en el disco de freno marca,-11/4, un grado y un cuarto negativo como hago, para llegar a cero grados 0° ??,tomo referencia de la primera o segunda medida para llegar a cero grados 0° gracias saludos desde Lima PERÚ
The car must be level. . all wheel centres must be inline before you start . . (all four corners) . . . .BUT WAIT . . . . . are your disc's flat where the tool seats. .no wear ridge etc . . . . if it's all ok . . we can measure . . . This is just a tool is to get your camber close to what it should be or what you want (people mess with geometry) until you have laser alignment . . . it's good for this job
How do you mean do math? I've an unlevel surface on driveway almost flat. I have a level surface in my shed but only the front of the car will fit in the shed would it be possible for me to use this tool?
Estando elevado el carro en un grado y un cuarto negativo en cuantos grados debo de dejar para que en el piso quedee 0° cero grados, inicialmente en el piso marcaba -1/4 negativo
Bro ive been to 3 different shops and they say they can't align my caster/cambers any farther to keep my tires from wearing on the inside. I'm researching videos to just do it myself. Shops are too expensive and nobody can do anything unless the computer tells them to do it
Step 1.- ZERO OUT the tool against a known plumb surface Step 2 - make sure your car is parked on a known LEVEL ground with ALL 4 tires properly inflated. Step 3 - measure the camber with the car ON THE GROUND Step 4 - adjust camber with the rotors (or the wheels) bolted on with lug nuts so they don't move while you measure the adjustment Step 5 - with the car back ON THE LEVEL GROUND recheck the camber to make sure it's still set properly Step 5 - drive the car and recheck it once again This dude seemed to miss all these steps and very likely set the camber incorrectly
The tool works really well I just really wish they had put the markings correctly on the tool. the magnet on the base should be negative... inward is negative... also you always want a little bit of - camber you never want positive camber.and that Is what they did they put positive camber from negative camber so it was probably literally right and they put it wrong. I've been doing alignments at dealerships for a long time... I've always wanted one of these tools just to be able to do quick checks. Far as cars go I've never seen a vehicle with positive camber always negative.
I don't think you understood what they did. The markings are correct, the negative reading is on the outer end because as the wheel tips inward negative camber increases, thus reading higher on the gauge because the bubble is further out.
Hi there can anyone tell me I have a pajero 4x4 wagon 1992 it says 30 to 40 mins I have this tool on the vid but how do i find the settings on it. Nick
60 minutes is equal to one degree. With the tool in the video, you might be able to approximate 40 minutes but you could get the 30 minutes to a reasonable degree of accuracy since there is a half degree mark.
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can it be one of these sensors for a 2013 hyundai sonata 2.4 liter with code p0017 cam shaft position sensor correlation bank 1 sensor b
Just bought a camber tool. This video was what I needed. Thanks guys!
Thanks for the video. Ive done my own toe alignments for years and just eyeballed it. Only took it to the alignment shop for the camber as ive never done it before but now i see its not as difficult as i thought. I desperately need to attempt to fix the camber on my envoy before the new tires are destroyed. Alignment shops all tell me have to replace the control arms and joints but they wanted over $1200(i bought the parts from Detroit-axel for $80).My mechanic is too busy on my car to get to my envoy rt now so ill try this for a short save til i can get the parts changed and a proper alignment. Thanks
Fantastic video guys - thank you SO much. I have just bought this tool after watching your video... and it has shown the garage to be inaccurate. Sure I cannot ensure level ground, but it will give an accurate difference between the wheels each side, and as it is the DIFFERENCE between camber that is dangerous, the +4 degrees of camber difference (!) I found using this tool, explains why my car drove out of the garage pulling to the right :)
It is worth mentioning that whilst some of the 4-wheel alignment rigs at a garage are good, they are only good if they are regularly calibrated and the operator knows how to use them properly. It is worth spending $30 on one of these just to check for peace of mind.
Again - great video guys. I am very happy for the effort you made in uploading this video. Very clear.
Good video, I'd say it's the best I've seen yet for camber adjustment. At first I thought why would you have to reverse and pull forward again but I guess when you drop it down off the jack the tire could be bound a bit, just enough the raise or lower the suspension on that side throwing the level off enough to give an inaccurate reading.
Great video bro! I think it's a reliable procedure as long as it is done correctly, for me it is difficult to find a perfect flat ground area since this is what the lever tool depends on.
Calibrate camber tool to zero then take reading with wheel on 1:40
Following wheel removal, adjust _camber tool_ to value *before* wheel removed 3:15
These guys are only trying to help, If you don't like their method, do it your own way, he said make sure you are on level ground ! all you have to do is listen not blab!
To maintain camber when you change the struts, you should get the exact degrees when the car is jacked up with stands, after that remove the tire and change the struts, when complete check the camber degree, adjust it from its original degrees when you first checked the degree, while the car is still jacked up. This way you wont lose the camber alignment
nice tips, thanks dude...so we record the degrees before we changing any related parts..even it its not fully level i think its still better than misalign
Disculpa puntales te refieres a amortiguador Macpherson
Computerised wheel alignment can be faulty too, so this a good way to save you money, wheel alignments is somewhat expensive, I'd rather do it myself if I could
yeah, wheel alignment is expensive if you consider you need wheel alignment after changing tyre..then after some time your wheel bearing broke..and the your drive shaft broke...changing those faulty part and everytime you change you need to do chamber alignmen...if you changing those at tyre shop maybe they give u a little bit of discount. But if you do it yourself or do at others mechanic who doesnt have computer calibration setup, after changing and you go to others tyre shop they usually charge you quite amount of money
Local garages always find suspension parts or motor mounts that need to be replaced (they say) before they will do an alignment. So I do not have the $400 to $600 estimated cost. So I go home having spent money for no alignment and no repair. This is why I want to do things myself while trying to allow for some parts wear that I may be able to live with. I still do not buy the technician’s argument that worn motor mounts will alter the wheel alignment. I can often get my alignment close enough and improved over what I had. These videos here do not address that the camber reset throws the toe-in off. The toe-in then has to be reset.
Ideally vehicle should be level side to side and front to back. Weight distribution will impact ride height and ride height is key contributor to camber variation. Camber adjustment should be good if vehicle not more than 2 - 3* from level. Setting vehicle tires on ramps or boxes will load vehicle suspension and be at normal ride height. Adjust level with wood pieces under tire(s) where needed. The camber gauge needs to be zeroed. If rear is a solid axle (not independent), you could zero gauge from rear rotor. Zero gauge with gauge pointing to right for right side measurement and to the left before measuring the left side. If independent rear, zero from a horizontal or vertical reference on the vehicle frame. Just use a square on horizontal surface to give you a vertical reference when zeroing gauge. If vehicle not level side to side, when you zero your gauge, the gauge will then give you accurate measurement of camber. Hope this info provides additional insight on getting accurate measurements and good results. Don't forget to measure toe after making camber adjustments.
Disculpa una consulta,en el piso la rueda marca,-1/4 negativo, y elevado poniendo el calibrador magnético -1 1/4 grados negativo a cuántos grados dejo el calibrador aflojando y ajustando los pernos del amortiguador Macpherson, para que en el piso quede la rueda a 0° grados gracias
Make sure you ZERO out your camber tool before checking the wheel again at the end, after you've completed all the adjustments
How do you zero it out
@@larescats9228 with the adjustment wheel at 3:18
Thanks for explaining how it works.
Need to put the tool in a straight and level wall or visaversa calibrate the tool than use it , I have the same or similar it’s on the instructions then you can get your readings, hope it’s helps!
it has been ages for me searching a video on how to use that exact camber tool. And finally, here it is! thanks so much!!
Hey, I like your show, I am working on a 335i. Let me add, I find the cheap camber tool does not give repeatable results. To fix, I opened the center section by removing the pin; I cut two coils out of the tension spring to reduce pressure on the adjustment screw; I changed the adjustment screw to a M7 1.0 for accurate movement; the bubble tube was loose in the center section due to bad glue on either end so I repositioned the tube and added good adhesive on the ends - these changes gave me within 1/8 degree repeatability. Hope you see this. Thanks
good video but what negativa or positive camber does when you drive the car
Very well explained bro. Thank you. SVS Hyderabad India.
If you have a vehicle that has access camber adjusters. Can you adjust them with the tires on the vehicle?
for people using this tool, you must absolutely make sure the car is perfectly level left to right. And you have to rest the car on the knuckles to put the strut into the position as if it was sitting on the wheels. This requires some common sense and carpentry skills which many dont really have.
@LeonL47 as long as you raise the one side underneath the lowest control arm so it lifts the whole wheel as well. and then either using a bubble level or laser level on the roof of the car to make sure the car stays level and you're not jacking the one side too much. To be honest, its a good gimmick but requires too much effort. Id rather just pay the 60 bucks and get it done right by a pro.
You have reason, you need a perfect slab to use this tool. The alignment machine is perfectly leveled. This little tool is a waste of money.
@@mikealba3729absolutely not if you know how to use the tool and if you can’t use this or work it out you shouldn’t be allowed near the big boys tools
Guys thank you so much for your videos. They help a lot
Make sure to bolt on your rotors with lug nuts after you take the wheel off in order to get to correct measurement
Thank you for the explanation of how to use the tool.
shouldn't the left and right sides be different to compensate for the center grade in the road? That way it will run straight and not pull?
Very very thank you for the tips , from malaysia ❤
Great tool to use and I'm saying it by experience BUT some tips for everyone going of what I use to do with my drift car changing it from track to road.
Most importantly make sure your ground is 100% level
Jack your car up from the cross member or each wheel and place stands under a good spot that bares weight on your suspension on BOTH side of the car and lower the car onto the stands. You now have full weight on your car like you would if the wheel were still on. In the case of race cars or drift cars with rear adjustable camber put the whole car on stands baring all the weight on all four sections were you can put full weight on the suspension as if the wheels where still on the car.
Make sure that all stands are at the exact same height if your not sure use a ruler or tape measure to check your stand height. Also make sure you place your stands in the exact same position on you car on both sides.
Once all wheel are off the ground simply take your rims off place your camber tool on each wheel and adjust it until your hearts contempt.
Please be carful when unbolting tight nuts or bolts and remember the car is fully dependent on the stands so make sure they are in a good spot and be safe. I always placed extra stands under the chassis barring no weight just incas. Hope this helps you guys but the tool is a great tool and works well when use right. Good luck and please like this comment so it stay up the top for everyone else to be able to use this tool correctly. If I missed anything please feel free to comment and teach me a few things
Jason Johnston okay but what if you don't have a level ground to work with?
Greenfire 317 then you won't get a very good outcome obviously. You could try using the stands to level out the car as much as possible but I really wouldn't advice doing it that way.
Jason Johnston well my buddies garage isn't level but it is flat. I was thing of stretching a 2x4 or 4x4 across from side to side and using jack stands to support that
Greenfire 317 should be fine as long as the 4x4 and 4x2 is level because that should give you true level of the car.
Level ground is a nice starting point but I wouldn't assume the car to be level from measuring the height of your axle stands. The only way to make sure it's level, or at least in the same position as last time, is to use a spirit level.
Feature request: video on how to use a digital angle gauge for the same purpose. And then also another one for using the aluminum plates with the same (ex: Tenhulzen Automotive 2-Wheel Alignment Tool ) :)
hello good video, but i think you forget to explain how to make the zero before use (take a vertical reference and set the bubble to 0 and after using it).
Браво бе! Страхотни сте!
Are you sure the floor is even before testing alignment?
This tool works for trucks with 2 camber bolts?
fyi, if you're going to use this gauge you need to pay attention to both spirit levels in the tool. I noticed that when you made your measurement that you did not rotate the gauge to get it level. Not doing so will give you an incorrect camber reading. I would also think that the vehicle needs to be sitting on a level surface for it to be accurate.
You forgot show tool re-calibration after adjustment?
Thank you guys very helpful and great American Russian people
if you have like 1m piece of plank wood or something straight you can lay it on the ground and check if it is level, otherwise you could substract the angle. alternatively you could check the initial angles with the car facing forward then backwards as calculate what angle you need to substract/add. for example you have -1 both wheels and ground is tilted 0.2 to the right then you will measure -1.2/-0.8 forward and -0.8/-1.2 facing backwards. the real angle is the average: -1/-1 then the tilt -0.8-(-1)=0.2
Shouldn't the first step to be putting a level onto the garage floor, to be certain the car is perfectly level side to side, within a degree?
Hi If you do the camber doe's it but the wheel alignment out my town and country camber is out but the alignment is good thanks for good video.
The alignment shop I go to says they can't adjust the camber on my car; so I bought some camber bolts to replace my upper strut bolts but all the other instructions I found online said you needed alignment equipment to install them. That basically makes the camber bolts useless to me since I don't have the equipment, the method shown in the video may be a good solution to the problem though, but I think mine are off on both sides, right side is probably worse though because I glanced off a cement barrier the first summer I owned my car. The alignment has been scewy since then even with aligments at the shop my car pulls slightly to the right if I don't keep my hands on the wheel.
The boots on my CV axle at the very least on the left side are busted so I also get vibration on the freeway at around 65mph that lessens if I stay on the freeway for a while. I also have some brake squeak and possible slight rotor warp on the right rear. Got to look into fixing all this soon as I borrow a jack and some stands.
Thanks for the video this method might be worth a try; and since the place I have lifetime alignment at said they don't install camber bolts I don't want to go to a different place and have to pay to get them installed.
Then replace whatever you bent and the alignment should be ok again
thank you this is the tools that’s i Understand how to used them to do wheels Alignments most peoples doing a shit jobs just to keep its goings because they can’t afford go to the mechanic important don’t brings your girls friends or your wife with you while you driving test it’s first to make sure not one’s off the wheels if fells apart
thx. it a gd video. ez to understand.
great job guys.
Are these actually accurate?
Thanks
Which cam kite is right for 006 sienna limited. Thank you for your response ❤ 🫡 👌 🙏 🫵 🫶
Fantastic informative video sir thanks 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
You have to first adjust the level of tool with an object like your refrigerator, then install it on the car to be accurate!
So it’s a pretty accurate tool in measuring camber?
The car needs to on a perfectly level surface for this tool to work
No, the car does need to be level itself but not necessarily on a level surface, though that does make it easier.
That's what he said in the video and it makes sense 👍
Most garages are level
can i ask, if chamber is not align, will it make tyre to produce vibration sound between left or right conering?
Sounds more like a hub bearing is bad
OF COURSE NOT ! 😅
Do I need to buy a special camber bolt to do this camber adjustment? In this video they didn't use the special camber bolt to do adjustment at all. They pulled the brake-disc system by hands and a hammer. I guess it worked out for them.
Shouldn't you first make sure that your car is on level ground?
Where should the adjustment on the gauge be before you check the camber?
that can't be right now as you adjusted the screw underneath the gauge. Isn't the screw to calibrate zero deg on a known true vertical BEFORE you use it?
nice video. need to do this on my cheapass Chevy Volt. it's got too much understeer and I suspect a camber adjustment is in order.
Give it less toe in to cure understeer....even a little toe out is the trick
I have bought the same tool off Aliexpress.
The tool is NOT SET TO ZERO, out of the box, as it has a knurled knob adjustment, and it is preset a some random angle.
How did you set it to zero ?
I can only think that I would have to stick it to a calibrated perfectly vertical surface and then zero the bubble with the knob ?
How did you do this ?
Quick question: any issues/impact if i set -1.5 camber to ONLY my front wheels using caliber bolts? Primary aim is to tuck in about 8mm of the 20mm pole to ensure i clear fenders on max suspension travel. Rear would remain stock on my BRZ.
Is it possible to adjust the camber on an uneven ground
No
This may be the first time I saw a RUclips channel with an automotive name use a factory tire iron to remove lugnuts. I guess everyone has to start somewhere, right? Also, when using a bubble guage of any type, you go by the center of the bubble, not the edge...
To be useful there need to be a way to determine if the ground is level under all the wheels at once. Without a laser level this is very hard to do.
Wrong
Where do I get this screw? My car is the wheel deflector to the inside from the top
Very helpful, thanks !
Thank you for this video!!!
Just waiting for him to say Suka Blyat 😂 slav accent so heavy 👌🏻
Diddy Sh no, that’s a dutch accent.
See at the end of. The video measurement while the tool is not leveled bubble not on the middle
Only the front has to be level. So any bad Bushings. Springs. Shocks will screw the results. Why you have to measure the frame to ground clearance first. If it's out of spec. You're alignment is not set.
I'm more worried about toe. As tie rods wear out and eat tires like candy!
Check your floor spirit level before done camber check.
Without being able to set the castor.... what is the use of this? I don't see it.
Good video I'm getting one of those
he is putting the tool on the rotor wear strip ridge which will put off the reading
What size sockes?save time
Buenas noches, una consulta tengo un auto con sistema Macpherson en el piso marca -1/4° negativo y colocado en el disco de freno marca,-11/4, un grado y un cuarto negativo como hago, para llegar a cero grados 0° ??,tomo referencia de la primera o segunda medida para llegar a cero grados 0° gracias saludos desde Lima PERÚ
The car must be level. . all wheel centres must be inline before you start . . (all four corners) . . . .BUT WAIT . . . . . are your disc's flat where the tool seats. .no wear ridge etc . . . . if it's all ok . . we can measure . . .
This is just a tool is to get your camber close to what it should be or what you want (people mess with geometry) until you have laser alignment . . . it's good for this job
Yes, be sure the ground that reaches all tires are leveled first. edit: just in case someone assumes....
RODERICK CONSTANTINO what if your car isn't on level ground
Thanks for detail high quality video
Great video, this and the camber device recommendation really helps.
omg soooo great
but please tell me the name of that u put in the wells? that one had green wather?
Love you guys😘😎
what the camber adjustment on astra H 06
Guys you need to put that tool on the top of the disc
Título en español .... Y vídeo en inglés ...... excelente¡¡
Should work perfect .....even on un level floor.....just have to use your math and create your own .....zero reference point.
How do you mean do math? I've an unlevel surface on driveway almost flat. I have a level surface in my shed but only the front of the car will fit in the shed would it be possible for me to use this tool?
love his accent
Does this also work for castor and is there a toe tool
Great video thank you
I think once u drop the car and drive ther will be a difference also uk roads are arched and aligners will take that into consideration where u won’t
Estando elevado el carro en un grado y un cuarto negativo en cuantos grados debo de dejar para que en el piso quedee 0° cero grados, inicialmente en el piso marcaba -1/4 negativo
the device was not calibrated, how was the device calibrated for vertical?
I have the same question for them.
Will they answer ????😅
Bro ive been to 3 different shops and they say they can't align my caster/cambers any farther to keep my tires from wearing on the inside. I'm researching videos to just do it myself. Shops are too expensive and nobody can do anything unless the computer tells them to do it
great video, but you keep bending that disc brake guard, 3:50 to 4:00 that will cause the guard to touch the disc and make a screeching when you drive
Thank so much for your details video
you guys are badass!
Nice video sir ,
Step 1.- ZERO OUT the tool against a known plumb surface
Step 2 - make sure your car is parked on a known LEVEL ground with ALL 4 tires properly inflated.
Step 3 - measure the camber with the car ON THE GROUND
Step 4 - adjust camber with the rotors (or the wheels) bolted on with lug nuts so they don't move while you measure the adjustment
Step 5 - with the car back ON THE LEVEL GROUND recheck the camber to make sure it's still set properly
Step 5 - drive the car and recheck it once again
This dude seemed to miss all these steps and very likely set the camber incorrectly
iam ordering that! thanks!
Anybody else's flesh crawl at the sound of that breaker bar rubbing the fender lip?
Ahh, NO ... it didn't rub the fender at all ... That sound was the nut breaking loose from the hub ..
Shouldn't the bubble be at 0 to be plumb with a level floor?
excellent, just what i was looking for, thank you. 👍
The tool works really well I just really wish they had put the markings correctly on the tool. the magnet on the base should be negative... inward is negative... also you always want a little bit of - camber you never want positive camber.and that Is what they did they put positive camber from negative camber so it was probably literally right and they put it wrong. I've been doing alignments at dealerships for a long time... I've always wanted one of these tools just to be able to do quick checks. Far as cars go I've never seen a vehicle with positive camber always negative.
I don't think you understood what they did. The markings are correct, the negative reading is on the outer end because as the wheel tips inward negative camber increases, thus reading higher on the gauge because the bubble is further out.
whats the adjustment knob for?
I found out I don't have Camber Bolts on my PT. Well that explains my tire wear.
Usually camber doesn’t really affect tire wear u less you have more than -2.0 of camber. Toe is what kills tires
Hi there can anyone tell me I have a pajero 4x4 wagon 1992 it says 30 to 40 mins I have this tool on the vid but how do i find the settings on it. Nick
60 minutes is equal to one degree. With the tool in the video, you might be able to approximate 40 minutes but you could get the 30 minutes to a reasonable degree of accuracy since there is a half degree mark.
perfect tool
Was hoping caster also
biggest problem is finding level ground in the street/parking lot 😲😭